GIFT  OF 


A   MISSION  TO  VITI 


..".':  '• '.  .'.- 


Drawn  by  D.Macdonald 


RATU       VAKARURU,    A     CHIEF 
OF       V  I T  I        L  EV  U  . 


VITI: 

°V 
ACCOUNT  OF  A  GOVERNMENT  MISSION 


TO   THE 


VITIAN  OR  FIJIAN  ISLANDS 


IN  THE   YEARS    1860-61. 


BY 


BERTHOLD    SEEMANN,  PH.D.,  F.L.S.,  F.R.G.S., 

AUTHOR   OF   THE    NARRATIVE    AND    THE    BOTANY   OF    H.M.S.    HERAVD, 
'POPULAR   HISTORY   OP   PALMS,'    ETC.    KTC. 


t'tfj  3Hlu0trat{0n0  ant»  a  Jlap. 


fiambrtogt ; 

MACMILLAN   &   CO., 

AND   23,  HENRIETTA   STREET,   COVENT   GARDEN,  LONDON. 

1862. 

The  riyht  of  translation  in  reserved  by  the  Author. 


yd. 


JOHN    EDWARD    TAYLOR,    PRINTER, 
LITTLE    QUEEN    STREET,  LINCOLN'S    INN    FIELDS. 


TO 

SIR  RODERICK  IMPEY  MURCHISON, 

D.C.L.,  LL.D.,  F.E.S., 

DIEECTOE    OF    THE    GEOLOGICAL   SUEVEY, 
ETC.,    ETC.,   ETC., 

WHOSE   PBE-EMINENCE   IN   SCIENCE    HAS   ALWAYS 

BEEN    COUPLED    WITH   A    GENEEOUS   ENCOUEAGEMENT   OF   THE 

LABOUBS   OF   OTHEBS, 


WITH    FEELINGS   OF   HIGH   EEGAED  AND   ESTEEM 
BY 

THE  AUTHOE. 


PREFACE. 


IN  1859  Mr.  W.  T.  Pritchard,  H.B.M.  Consul  in  Fiji, 
son  of  the  Rev.  George  Pritchard,  formerly  of  Tahiti, 
arrived  in  England  with  a  document  purporting  to  be 
the  cession  of  Fiji — or  rather  Viti — to  the  Queen  of 
Great  Britain.  The  cession  had  been  made  by  Cakobau 
(=  Thakombau),  the  principal  chief  of  Bau  and  king 
of  the  whole  group,  and  with  the  consent  of  the  lead- 
ing chiefs.  The  importance  of  accepting  the  proffered 
sovereignty  was  insisted  upon  by  parties  capable  of 
taking  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  question.  The  Le- 
gislative Assembly  of  New  South  Wales,  on  the  motion 
of  Mr.  M' Arthur,  voted  an  address  to  the  Queen  in  sup- 
port of  this  proposal.  Captain  Towns,  a  patriotic  citizen 
of  Sydney,  fully  impressed,  like  many  of  his  country- 
men, with  the  importance  of  acquiring  the  islands,  ge- 
nerously offered  a  cheque  for  the  whole  Fijian  debt,  in 
order  to  remove  at  least  one  of  the  possible  obstacles 
in  the  way  of  the  cession.  Nor  is  it  any  secret  that  the 
occupation  of  the  islands  has  been  recommended  by 
Captains  Fremantle,  Denham,  Erskine,  and  Loring,  and 
Admirals  Washington*  and  Sir  Edward  Belcher;  in 

*  See  Appendix. 


yiii  PREFACE. 

fact,  by  all  naval  men  who  knew  anything  about  the 
subject.  Men  high  in  office  were  equally  favourably  in- 
clined towards  the  cession.  However,  before  coming  to 
any  definite  decision,  the  Government  determined  to 
obtain  more  ample  -information  than  was  at  hand,  and 
early  in  1860  I  was  asked  to  join  a  "Mission  to  Viti" 
dispatched  for  that  purpose. 

Whilst  in  Fiji,  I  was  induced  to  write  a  series  of 
letters  on  the  country,  its  people,  and  productions,  to 
the  'Athenaeum,'  which  that  journal  did  me  the  honour 
to  publish,  and  which,  whole  or  in  part,  found  their 
way  into  several  other  home  and  colonial  papers,  were 
translated  into  German  and  French,  and  altogether  ob- 
tained a  circulation  for  which  their  original  place  of 
publication  alone  can  account.  On  my  return  to  Lon- 
don I  was  urged  to  make  additions  to  this  series,  and  I 
acceded  to  this  wish  by  bringing  the  subject  before  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society,  and  writing  papers  for  the 
'  Gardeners'  Chronicle  *  and  Galton's  well-known  '  Va- 
cation Tourists  and  Notes  of  Travel.'  But  a  good  deal 
of  matter  remained  still  unpublished,  which,  together 
with  the  pith  of  all  I  have  previously  made  known,  will 
be  found  in  the  following  pages. 

In  order  that  the  public  may  have  the  means  of  form- 
ing a  correct  judgment  on  the  Fijian  question,  I  have 
reprinted  in  the  Appendix  Colonel  Smythe's  Official 
Report,  at  variance  as  it  is  with  all  that  has  been 
written  on  the  islands.  My  impression  of  Fiji  and  its 
inhabitants  was  most  favourable,  and  I  am  convinced 
that,  under  judicious  management,  the  country  would 


PREFACE.  ix 

become  a  flourishing  colony, — an  opinion  shared  by 
almost  all  who  have  visited  the  group,  as  was  again 
proved  at  a  crowded  meeting  at  the  Geographical  So- 
ciety when  the  subject  was  discussed. 

Desirous  of  collecting  as  many  productions  of  the 
country  as  possible,  I  neglected  to  investigate  several 
subjects  which  fell  not  within  my  assigned  province.  It 
was  only  after  the  publication  of  Colonel  Smythe's  '  Re- 
port,' that  I  became  aware  of  the  full  importance  of  my 
neglect.  For  instance,  it  would  have  been  very  important 
to  know  how  many  thousand  acres  of  land  had  passed 
out  of  the  hands  of  the  natives.  As  a  great  many  islands 
and  vast  tracts  of  country  have  already  been  purchased 
by  British  subjects,  statistics  on  these  points  would  pro- 
bably have  materially  influenced  the  decision  of  Her 
Majesty's  Government  with  respect  to  the  acceptance  of 
the  cession. 

Amongst  other  things  I  brought  home  a  comprehen- 
sive collection  of  plants,  which,  together  with  those 
already  in  this  country,  chiefly  accumulated  by  Govern- 
ment expeditions,  furnish  ample  materials  for  a  Flora 
of  Fiji,  a  Flora  Vitiensis.  I  expended  a  good  deal  of 
my  own  money  in  order  to  make  these  collections  as 
complete  as  possible,  and  was  in  hopes  that  the  Govern- 
ment would  see  fit  to  assist  me  in  publishing  such  a 
work,  especially  as  my  report  on  the  resources  and  ve- 
getable productions  of  the  islands  had  been  presented 
to  both  Houses  of  Parliament  by  command  of  Her 
Majesty,  and  the  nature,  and  possible  value  of  the  pro- 
jected publication  must  have  become  evident.  His 


PREFACE. 


Grace  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  ever  ready  to  advance 
science,  fully  sharing  these  hopes,  made  an  application 
to  the  Treasury  to  that  effect,  but  was  "very  sorry  to 
inform  me  that  his  application  had  been  unsuccessful." 
Thinking  what  had  been  collected  with  so  much  ex- 
pense, under  great  difficulties,  and  in  a  country  only 
partially  reclaimed  from  cannibalism,  was  also  worth 
making  known,  I  resolved  to  incur  the  risk  of  publish- 
ing the  work  at  my  own  cost.  It  will  consist  of  400 
pages  of  letter-press  (quarto),  and  100  coloured  plates, 
all  representing  objects  hitherto  unknown  to  science, 
and  drawn  by  the  skilful  pencil  of  Mr.  Fitch.  The 
work  will  take  about  three  years  to  bring  out,  and  its 
publication  will  commence  immediately. 

All  the  native  names  are  spelt  according  to  the  sys- 
tem of  orthography  laid  down  in  Hazel  wood's  '  Fijian 
Dictionary '  (London :  Triibner  and  Co.),  and  wherever 
any  deviation  should  be  discovered,  it  may  be  regarded 
as  a  mistake  of  mine,  unless  particularly  noticed.  No- 
thing but  endless  confusion  will  be  the  result  if  every 
nation  is  allowed  to  write  Fijian  names  according  to  its 
own  orthography.  For  the  illustrations  of  my  present 
work  I  am  indebted  to  Mrs.  Smythe,  Dr.  Macdonald, 
and  Captain  Denham,  to  whom  I  beg  to  tender  my  best 
thanks,  as  well  as  to  those  friends  who,  since  my  de- 
parture from  Fiji,  have  kept  me  supplied  with  the 
latest  intelligence  from  that  group. 

BERTHULD  SEEMANN. 

London,  September  30,  1862. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  I. 

Page 

Departure  from  England. — Arrival  at  Sydney. — Voyage  to  Fiji. — 
The  'John  Wesley.'— The  Pitcairners  at  Norfolk  Island.— First 
Glimpse  of  Fiji. — Lakeba. — The  Tongtiese. — Visit  to  a  Mission 
Station. — First  Botanical  Excursion. — Hints  to  Collectors. — Native 
Church. — Bark-cloth  Manufacture. — Tomb  of  a  Chief. — Missionary 
Life. — Departure  from  Lakeba  .......  1 

CHAPTEE  II. 

Island  of  Taviuni. — The  King  of  Cakaudrove. — Elephantiasis. — 
Kind  Offer  of  Mr.  Waterhouse  and  Captain  Wilson. — Somosomo, 
its  Advantages  and  Disadvantages. — Queen  Eleanor. — Ascent  of 
Summit  of  Taviuni. — A  Eoyal  Escort. — Sylvan  Scene. — Arrival  at 
the  Top. — Singular  Swamp  of  Vegetable  Turtle  Fat. — Dinner. — 
Timidity  of  the  Natives. — Chief  Golea's  Eeturn  from  a  Military 
Expedition. — Polygamy. — The  Eotuma-Men. — Wairiki. — Arrival 
of  the  '  Paul  Jones '.  19 


CHAPTEE  III. 

Fiji  as  a  Cotton-growing  Country. — Cotton  not  Indigenous  but  Na- 
turalized.— Native  Names. — Number  of  Species.— Average  Pro- 
duce of  the  Wild  Cotton. — Excellence  of  Fijian  Cotton  acknow- 
ledged at  Manchester. — Efforts  of  British  Consul  and  Missionaries 
to  extend  its  Cultivation. — The  First  Thousand  Pounds  of  Cotton 
sent  Home. — Establishment  of  a  Plantation  at  Somosomo,  Wakaya, 
and  Nukunioto. — Prospects  of  Cotton-growing  in  Fiji  .  .  .48 


xii  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Page 

Departure  from  Somosomo. — Island  of  Wakaya. — The  Balolo. — Ar- 
rival at  Levuka.— H.B.M.  Consul.— The  Late  Mr.  Williams.— 
Lado  and  its  Origin. — Site  for  the  New  Capital. — The  King  of 
Fiji. — Bau. — Causes  of  its  Supremacy. — Viwa  .  .  .  .58 


CHAPTER  V. 

The  Wai  Levu  or  Great  River. — Canal  Dug  by  Natives. — Matai- 
suva. — Institution  for  Training  Native  Teachers. — Sacred  Groves, 
Trees,  and  Stones. — Mosquitoes. — Island  of  Naigani. — Mr.  Egger- 
strom's  Kindness. — Feuds  at  Nadroga. — Nukubalawu. — Taguru. — 
Navua  River  ...........  82 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Stay  at  Navua. — Chief  Kuruduadua's  Household. — "  Harry  the  Jew." 
— A  Prince  as  he  was  Born. — Massacre  Prevented. — Kuruduadua's 
Character.— Statement  of  Mr.  Heekes  Respecting  the  Namuka 
Outrage. — Town  and  Bures  of  Navua. — Tatooing. — Return  to  Lado.  97 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Arrival  of  Colonel  Smythe  from  New  Zealand. — The  '  Pegasus '  and 
'  PaulJones.' — Visit  to  Bau. — Quarrelsome  Disposition  of  the  Chief 
of  the  Fishermen. — Cession  of  Fiji  to  England. — First  Official 
Interview  with  the  King 120 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Excursions  to  Koroivau  and  Namara. — Departure  from  Bau. — Passage 
through  the  Great  River  of  Viti  Levu. — Buretu.— Apostate  Chris- 
tians.— Rewa. — Arrival  at  Tavuki,  Kadavu. — Whale  Ships. — At- 
tempt to  ascend  Buke  Levu. — The  Isthmus  of  Kadavu. — Ga  Loa 
or  Black  Duck  Bay.— Departure  for  Navua 133 


CONTENTS.  xiii 


CHAPTEE  IX. 

Page 

Departure  from  Kadavu. — Arrival  at  Navua. — A  Court  of  Justice. — 
Starting  for  the  Interior. — The  Navua  River. — Its  Fine  Scenery. — 
Rapids. — A  Canoe  upset. — Town  of  Nagadi. — Hospitable  Recep- 
tion. —  Soromato.  —  Kidnapping.  —  Family  Prayers.  —  Heathen 
Temple. — A  Large  Snake  to  be  Cooked. — March  across  the  Country. 
— VumVaivutuku. — A  Difficult  Road. — A  Purse  Lost. — No  Thieves. 
— Arrival  at  Namosi. — Danford's  Establishment. — His  Usefulness 
as  a  Pioneer  .....  .146 


CHAPTER  X. 

Popular  Ideas  Respecting  the  Interior  of  Viti  Levu. — Malachite  and 
Antimony. — Ascent  of  Voma  Peak. — Visit  to  a  Heathen  Temple. 
— "  Spirit  Fowls." — Official  Meeting  with  Kuruduadua  and  his 
Subjects. — A  Rebellion  to  be  Suppressed. — Presentation  of  Food. 
—"The  Oldest  Inhabitants."— A  Court- Fool  and  his  Tricks.— Mr. 
Waterhouse  Preaching. — Departure  of  Colonel  Smythe  and  Messrs. 
Pritchard  and  Waterhouse,  for  Nadroga 160 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Fijian  Cannibalism. — The  Great  Cauldron. — Naulumatua  and  his  Ap- 
petite for  Human  Flesh. — Bokola. — Vegetables  Eaten  with  Cannibal 
Food. — The  Ominous  Taro. — Approximate  Number  of  Bodies  eaten 
at  Namosi. — Ovens  for  Baking  Dead  Men. — Suspension  of  the 
Bones. — Not  all  Fijians  Cannibals. — Efforts  of  the  Liberal  Party  to 
Suppress  Anthropophagism. — Aided  by  Europeans. — Real  Signifi- 
cance of  Eating  Man  only  Partly  Understood. — Concessions  to  Hu- 
manity.— Abolition  of  Cannibalism  throughout  Kuruduadua's  Do- 
minions ...  ....  .'....  173 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Stay  at  Namosi  Prolonged. — The  Governor's  Attention. — "Crown 
Jewels." — The  Clerk  of  the  Weather. — Sorcerers. — Fijian  Family 
Life.— Story-Tellers  Popular  —A  Fijian  Tale 186 


XIV  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  XIII. 

Page 

Departure  from  Namosi. — Vuniwaivutuku. — The  "  Veil." — Mode  of 
Tatooing  the  Mouth. — Passing  down  the  Navua  River. — Nagadi 
cleared  out  by  its  Vasu. — Our  Canoe  Capsized. — Return  to  the 
'  Paul  Jones.' — Kuruduadua's  Character. — Leaving  Navua. — Bega. 
— Mr.  Storck's  Illness. — Return  to  Kadavu. — Ascent  of  Bute 
Levu. — Rewa. — Immigrants  from  New  Zealand. — Mr.  Moore's 
Powerful  Sermon. — Arrival  at  Lado. — Office  Drudgery  .  .  .  202 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Voyage  around  Vanua  Levu. — Departure  from  Lado. — East  Coast  of 
Viti  Levu. — Nananu  Island. — The  Fijian  Mount  Olympus. — Bua. — 
Naicobocobo. — Nukubati. — Naduri. — Interview  with  the  Chief. — 
Discontent  of  his  Subjects. — Beche-de-mer  Trade. — Mua  i  Udu  and 
its  Superstitions. — Na  Ceva  Bay. — Arrival  at  Waikava. — Visit  to 
my  Cotton  Plantation. — Meeting  at  Waikava. — Departure  .  .  222 


CHAPTER  XV. 

History  of  the  Tongamen  in  Fiji. — Their  Physical  Superiority  over 
the  Fijians. — Their  Arrogance. — Captain  Croker's  Defeat. — Early 
Intercourse  between  Tonga  and  Fiji. — Increase  of  Tonguese  Immi- 
gration.— Chief  Maafu. — King  George  of  Tonga  visits  Fiji. — Con- 
quest of  Kaba  and  Rabe. — Arrival  of  British  Consul. — Cession  of 
Fiji. — Maafu's  Attempted  Conquest. — Ritova  and  Bete. — Maafu's 
Ambition  Curbed. — Peace  Restored. — Ritova  Installed  in  his  Estates. 
— Tonguese  Intrigues  Renewed. — Bete's  Death. — Commodore  Sey- 
mour's Visit. — Termination  of  the  Wars  between  Fijians  and 
Tongans  .  . 236 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

General  Remarks  on  the  Aspect,  Climate,  Soil,  and  Vegetation  of  Fiji. 
— Colonial  Produce.— Staple  Food.— Edible  Roots. — Kitchen  Vege- 
tables.— Edible  Fruits. — National  Beverages. — Kava  .  .  .  274 


CONTENTS.  XV 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Page 

Vegetable  Poisons. — Medicinal  Plants. — Scents  and  Perfumes. — Ma- 
terials for  Clothing. — Mats  and  Baskets. — Fibres  used  for  Cordage. 
— Timber. — Palms. — Ornamental  Plants. — Miscellaneous  .  .  332 

CHAPTEE  XVIII. 

Remarks  on  the  Fauna  of  Fiji. — Mammals. — Birds. — Fishes. — Rep- 
tiles.— Mollusks. — Crustacea.— Insects. — Lower  Animals  .  .  381 

CHAPTEE  XIX. 

Fijian  Religion. — Degei,  the  Supreme  God. — Inferior  Deities. — Wor- 
ship of  Ancestors. — Idolized  Objects. — Temples. — Creation  and 
Ultimate  Destruction  of  the  World. — A  Great  Flood. — Immor- 
tality of  the  Soul. — Conception  of  Future  Abode. — Props  of 
Superstition  ...  .  389 

CHAPTEE  XX. 

Historical  Remarks  on  Fiji. — Discovery  of  the  Islands. — Sandal- wood 
Traders. — Early  White  Settlers. — Missionaries. — Foreigners  at 
present  Residing  in  the  Group. — Departure  from  Fiji  in  the  '  Stag- 
hound.' — Terrific  Storm  off  Lord  Howe's  Island. — Arrival  in  Syd- 
ney.— Return  to  England. — Conclusion 404 


APPENDIX. 

I.— Report  of  Admiral  Washington,  R.N 419 

II.— Report  of  Colonel  Smythe,  R.A.,  to  Colonial  Office     .        .        .421 
III. — Systematic  List  of  all  the  Fijian  Plants  at  present  known          .  431 


VITI: 


AN 

ACCOUNT  OF  A  GOVERNMENT  MISSION  TO  THE 
TITIAN  OR  FIJIAN  ISLANDS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

DEPAETUEE  FEOM  ENGLAND. — AEEIVAL  AT  SYDNEY. — VOYAGE  TO  FIJI. — 
THE  '  JOHN  WESLEY.' — THE  PITCAIENEES  AT  NOEFOLK  ISLAND. — FIEST 
GLIMPSE  OF  FIJI. —  LAKEBA. —  THE  TONGUESE. — VISIT  TO  A  MISSION 
STATION. — FIEST  BOTANICAL  EXCUESION. — HINTS  TO  COLLECTOES. — NA- 
TIVE CHUECH. — BAEK-CLOTH  MANUFACTUEE. — TOMB  OF  A  CHIEF. — MIS- 
SIONAEY  LIFE. — DEPAETUEE  FEOM  LAKEBA. 

HAVING  left  Southampton  on  the  12th  of  February,  1860, 
by  the  overland  mail,  and  having  touched  at  Mauritius, 
King  George's  Sound,  and  Melbourne,  I  arrived  at  Syd- 
ney on  the  16th  of  April,  where  I  was  to  join  Colonel 
Smythe,  R.A., — who  had  gone  out  by  the  previous  mail, 
— and  proceed  with  him  in  her  Majesty's  ship  '  Cordelia,' 
it  was  supposed,  to  Fiji.  The  first  news  heard  was,  that 
a  war  had  broken  out  in  New  Zealand,  in  consequence 
of  which  all  available  naval  force  had  been  dispatched 
to  the  scene  of  action.  This  altered  our  plans  consider- 
ably. Colonel  Smythe,  thinking  that  the  outbreak  of 
native  discontent  would  be  only  of  short  duration,  and 

B 


TO  vm. 

that  after  its  termination  he  should  still  be  able  to  ob- 
tain a  Government  vessel  for  Fiji,  resolved  to  proceed 
by  the  mail  steamer  to  New  Zealand.  He  came  on 
board  the  '  Benares '  to  communicate  this  resolution  to 
me,  but  I,  having  made  an  attempt  to  find  him  on 
shore,  was  absent,  and  as  his  steamer  left  soon  after  the 
English  mail  had  been  transferred,  1  did  not  meet  with 
him  until  three  months  afterwards. 

Sir  William  Denison,  to  whom  I  had  letters  from  the 
home  Government,  advised  me  either  to  go  to  New 
Zealand  and  wait  there  for  an  opportunity,  or  else  di- 
rect to  Fiji,  in  the  missionary  vessel  '  John  Wesley,' 
about  to  sail  that  day.  Wishing  to  economize  my  time 
as  much  as  possible,  I  preferred  the  latter.  In  com- 
municating with  the  Rev.  John  Eggleston,  General  Se- 
cretary of  the  Wesleyan  Mission,  that  gentleman  kindly 
postponed  the  departure  of  their  vessel  a  few  days,  in 
order  to  afford  me  time  for  making  the  necessary  pre- 
parations for  future  explorations.  He  supplied  me  be- 
sides with  letters  of  introduction  to  residents  in  the 
Fijian  islands,  books,  and  a  list  of  articles  used  as  barter, 
all  of  which  proved  highly  acceptable.  In  reply  to  Sir 
William  Denison's  asking  for  a  passage  for  me  and  my 
assistant,  Mr.  Jacob  Storck,  Mr.  Eggleston  cheerfully 
granted  a  free  passage  to  both  of  us,  at  the  same  time 
reminding  the  Governor-General  that  the  Wesleyan 
a  body  felt  under  obligations  to  the  Government  for 
frequently  allowing  their  vessels  to  assist  their  mis- 
sionaries in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  rendering  them  timely 
aid,  and  supplying  them  with  medicines,  and  bringing 
them  home  when  ill.  With  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Chains 


FELLOW-VOYAGERS.  6 

Moore,  Director  of  the  Botanic  Gardens  at  Sydney,  I 
was  enabled  to  complete  all  my  arrangements  without 
loss  of  time.  When  embarking,  I  had  accumulated  a 
whole  cart-load  of  luggage,  containing  none  save  the 
most  necessary  things,  and  surveyed  by  me  with  a  heavy 
heart  when  thinking  of  the  difficulty  of  transporting 
them  from  island  to  island.  None  save  those  who  have 
experienced  it,  can  have  any  conception  of  travelling  in 
countries  where  no  money  is  current,  and  all  is  paid  for 
in  kind.  How  easy  is  moving  about  when  one  can 
carry  a  whole  year's  travelling  expenses  in  the  waistcoat 
pocket !  But  think  of  people  never  doing  a  thing  for 
you  unless  you  have  counted  out,  or  measured  off,  the 
requisite  number  or  amount  of  your  stock  in  trade. 

All  being  ready  and  the  wind  fair,  I  left  Sydney  Har- 
bour on  Friday,  April  20,  1860,  on  board  the  'John 
Wesley,'  Captain  Birkenshaw.  There  were,  in  all,  six 
passengers, — Captain  Wilson,  from  Sydney,  about  to  look 
after  his  cocoa-nut  oil  establishment  at  Somosomo; 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Harrison,  a  missionary  and  his  wife,  for 
Fiji ;  Mr.  Storck  and  myself,  and  a  Fijian  native  teacher, 
who  had  come  to  Sydney  with  the  vieAV  of  proceeding 
to  England,  but  who,  after  reaching  New  South  Wales, 
had  become  so  home-sick,  that  he  was  obliged  to  return 
to  his  native  country.  Though  having  been  only  a  few 
thousand  miles,  he  would  be  regarded  as  a  mighty  tra- 
veller on  his  return,  and  doubtless  looked  upon  himself 
as  such.  For,  as  the  Italian  would  wish  "  to  see  Naples, 
and  die,"  or  the  Spaniard  declares  that— 

"  El  que  no  ha  vista  Sevilla 
No  ha  vista  maravilla  " — 

B   2 


4  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

so  the  South-Sea  Islanders  would  say,  "  Let  me  behold 
Sydney,  and  go  home  again." 

No  one  should  speak  ill  of  the  bridge  that  carries  him 
over,  or  look  a  gift-horse  in  the  mouth  ;  but  I  have  been 
so  frequently  asked  about  the  '  John  Wesley,'  that  I 
may  be  exculpated  when  saying  a  few  words  about  the 
vessel  as  she  appeared  to  me.  The  '  John  Wesley'  was 
launched  in  1846,  having  been  built  by  Messrs.  White 
and  Sons,  of  Cowes,  and  being  paid  for  by  charitable 
contributions.  I  have  read  high  eulogiums  on  her,  but 
anybody  who  has  sailed  in  her  will  not  be  inclined 
to  endorse  them.  It  has  never  been  my  misfortune 
to  be  on  board  a  vessel  behaving  worse  than  she  did. 
She  is  about  thirty  feet  too  short,  and  never  easy,  let 
the  wind  be  ever  so  favourable  and  the  sea  as  smooth 
as  a  pond.  In  a  slight  gale  the  pitching  is  awful,  and 
the  rolling  terrific.  We  were  often  watching  and*  won- 
dering what  would  be  her  next  move  after  all  these 
had  been  going  on  for  awhile,  when  perhaps  she  would 
shake  her  rudder  so  violently  that  one  almost  feared  it 
must  come  out.  In  consequence  of  her  constant  un- 
easiness, the  wear  and  tear  in  ropes  and  spars  is  con- 
siderable, and  the  annual  expenditure  must  be  much 
greater  than  might  be  expected  from  a  vessel  of  her 
size.  Nearly  every  morning  there  was  something  gone, 
and  we  used  to  chaff  the  captain  about  the  superior  be- 
haviour of  his  craft;  but  he,  like  a  true  sailor,  would 
defend  her  through  thick  and  thin.  In  rough  weather 
she  had,  besides,  the  bad  quality  of  leaking ;  and,  as 
some  of  the  cocoa-nut  oil  carried  in  her  on  a  former 
occasion  had  oozed  out  of  the  tanks  and  casks  and 


THE    'JOHN   WESLEY.  O 

become  rancid,  the  stench  was  quite  overpowering. 
It  requires  a  peculiar  constitution  not  to  become  sea- 
sick on  board,  and  this  is  perhaps  the  most  serious  in- 
convenience that  the  missionaries  and  their  families 
suffer  when  going  backwards  and  forwards  in  her  to  the 
Colonies,  or  from  island  to  island.  When  we  left  Syd- 
ney Harbour,  I  observed  several  of  our  men  in  unfurl- 
ing sails,  sea-sick,  a  sight  I  never  before  beheld ;  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Harrison  were  ill  during  nearly  the  whole 
passage.  Nor  is  she,  with  all  these  drawbacks,  a  fast  or 
a  good  sailer.  We  wrere  twenty-three  days  from  Sydney 
to  Fiji,  a  distance  of  1,735  miles,  and  I  believe  that  may 
be  considered  a  fair  average  passage.  The  crew  was  an 
extremely  mongrel  set.  There  were  men  of  all  colours, 
countries,  and  religions :  black  Africans,  copper-coloured 
Chilians,  and  white  Englishmen;  Heathens,  Mahome- 
tans, Eoman  Catholics,  and  Protestants.  I  expressed 
my  surprise  that  in  a  vessel  belonging  to  a  religious 
society  there  should  be  so  mixed  a  ship's  company ;  but 
the  Captain  thought  it  rather  an  advantage  than  other- 
wise, offering,  as  it  did,  a  field  for  missionary  labours 
during  the  voyage.  Indeed,  when  not  suffering  from 
sea-sickness,  Mr.  Harrison  made  some  attempts  in  that 
direction. 

We  endeavoured  to  make  Norfolk  Island,  but  could 
not  fetch  it  within  about  one  hundred  miles.  I  should 
have  liked  to  look  at  that  charming  spot,  which,  no 
longer  a  convict  station,  as  in  days  of  yore,  has  lately 
been  given  by  the  Government  to  the  Pitcairners, — those 
much-petted  descendants  of  '  Bounty'  mutineers  and  Ta- 
hitian  women, — because  their  own  little  island  began 


6  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

to  be  too  small  for  the  growing  community.  The  Pit- 
cairn  ers  landed  on  the  8th  of  June,  1856,  from  the 
'  Morayshire,'  a  vessel  belonging  to  Mr.  Dunbar,  of  Lon- 
don, commanded  by  Mr.  Joseph  Mathers,  and  under 
the  agency  of  Acting-Lieutenant  G.  W.  Gregorie,  of 
her  Majesty's  ship  'Juno.'  They  numbered  in  all  194 
souls,  one  of  whom  died  soon  after  landing ;  the  rest 
comprising  40  men,  47  women,  54  boys,  and  52  girls. 
Almost  an  entire  week  was  employed  in  disembarking 
all  the  seventy  years'  gathering  of  chattels,  including 
almost  every  moveable  article,  even  to  the  "  gun  "  and 
"  anvil "  of  the  '  Bounty.'  On  landing  they  wrere 
greeted  individually  by  the  commissariat  officer  and 
Captain  Denham,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  '  Herald,'  who 
happened  to  be  there,  and  then  conducted  to  their  com- 
fortably-prepared quarters,  until  they  should  be  able  to 
make  their  own  selection  from  the  commodious  dwell- 
ings erected  for  them.  Dr.  Macdonald  instructed  the 
islanders  essentially  in  the  resources  of  the  ample  dis- 
pensary at  their  use,  whilst  the  artificers  of  the  '  Herald' 
imparted  to  them  the  uses  of  a  variety  of  tools  and 
implements,  comprising  the  wind  and  water  mills ;  in- 
deed, everything  was  done  to  make  them  comfortable. 
The  first  provident  step  for  future  provision  was  taken 
by  planting  their  favourite  sweet-potato,  and,  pending 
harvest  time,  which  they  gave  six  months  to  come  about, 
the  '  Herald '  left  the  newly-transferred  community  pro- 
vided with  45,000  Ibs.  of  biscuit,  flour,  maize,  and  rice, 
with  groceries  in  proportion,  and  abundance  of  milk  at 
their  hands;  whilst  their  live  stock  consisted  of  1300 
sheep,  430  cattle,  22  horses,  10  swine  in  sties,  16  do- 


THE   PITCA1RN    ISLANDERS.  7 

mestic  fowls,  and  a  quantity  of  wild  pigs  and  fowls. 
Even  16,000  Ibs.  of  hay  and  5000  of  straw  were  left 
them ;  and,  lest  their  first  crop  should  be  late  or  fall 
short,  a  list  of  additional  supplies  was  sent  to  the  Go- 
vernor-General.* According  to  all  accounts  the  Pit- 
cairners  do  not  display  themselves  to  advantage  in  their 
new  home,  and  most  visitors  are  anything  but  pleased 
with  them.  As  might  have  been  expected,  the  nume- 
rous presents  given  and  sent  to  them  have  had  a  bad 
effect,  making  them  accomplished  beggars,  who  state 
their  case  in  such  a  wTay  as  will  most  readily  induce  the 
hearer  to  give  them  some  present  or  influence  others 
to  do  so.  They  are  besides  said  to  be  an  indolent  set, 
who,  rather  than  fetch  fuel  from  the  woods,  will  burn 
the  floors,  doors,  and  window-frames  of  the  fine  buildings 
erected  by  the  convicts,  and  generously  placed  by  Go- 
vernment at  their  disposal.  If  report  be  true,  Sir  Wil- 
liam Denison,  on  his  visit  to  the  island,  gave  them  a 
severe  and  well-deserved  lecture  on  this  head.  Several 
of  them  are  said  to  have  already  returned  to  Pitcairn 
Island,  where  they  seem  to  have  felt  more  comfortable, 
though  cramped  for  space,  and  a  few  are  said  to  have 
embarked  in  whaling  operations.  Let  us  hope  that  the 
whole  community,  about  which  so  much  truth  and  fic- 
tion has  been  written,  may  gradually  be  led  to  habits  of 
industry,  and  learn  to  rely  more  upon  its  own  resources 
than  the  charitable  contributions  of  others. 

On  the  10th  of  May  we  got  the  trade  wind,  and  on 
Saturday  the  12th,  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
caught  the  first  glimpse  of  Fiji.  We  had  left  Sydney 

*  See  Captain  Denham  in  '  Hydrographic  Notice,'  n.  5. 


A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

on  the  20th  of  April,  and  had  thus  been  twenty-three 
days  on  the  passage,  four  of  which  we  had  strong  gales 
and  were  compelled  to  heave  to.  We  bantered  the 
Captain  a  good  deal  about  the  long  passage,  and  as- 
cribed it  all  to  his  having  left  on  a  Friday,  at  the  same 
time  accumulating  instances  where  departures  on  that 
unlucky  day  had  been  followed  by  as  disastrous  conse- 
quences as  wrhen  thirteen  sit  down  to  table.  But  he 
thought  it  high  time  that  such  vestiges  of  superstition 
should  be  rooted  up,  and  said  there  was  no  more  in 
them  than  in  the  Flying  Dutchman.  On  the  following 
day  we  were  off  Lakeba  (Lakemba).  It  being  Sunday, 
Captain  Birkenshaw  would  not  give  offence  by  sending 
a  boat  on  shore  on  the  Sabbath.  I  suggested  that  we 
might  all  go  to  church  as  soon  as  landed,  but  he  main- 
tained that  it  was  as  much  as  his  place  was  worth  to 
entertain  such 'an  idea;  so  we  had  the  mortification 
of  stopping  another  day  on  board,  and  sail  backwards 
and  forwards  between  the  islands  of  Lakeba  and  Olorua. 
I  enjoyed  much  the  fine  sight  that  thus  was  offered. 
The  sky  was  clear  and  bright,  and  a  number  of  little 
islands  and  islets  were  rising  from  the  blue  sea,  the 
waves  breaking  on  their  rocky  shores,  or  forming  curly 
crests  on  the  long  reefs  that  encircle  many  of  them. 
They  were  all  more  or  less  elevated,  and  covered  with 
vegetation,  here  with  patches  of  grass  or  brake  and 
other  hard-leaved  ferns,  there  with  brushwood  or  larger 
trees;  the  presence  of  countless  screw-pines  and  iron- 
wood  (Casuarina)  trees  imparting  to  them  their  peculiar 
Polynesian  character.  Well  may  it  be  said,  that  the 
graceful  waving  iron-wood  bears  on  its  very  face  the 


LANDING    AT   LAKEBA.  9 

proof  of  its  being  at  home  in  a  country  and  in  situations 
continually  agitated  by  the  trade  winds.  Any  other 
tree  would  become  stunted  and  unsightly  under  such 
circumstances,  whilst  the  iron-wood  is  rendered  only 
more  graceful  by  them. 

The  next  morning  we  endeavoured  to  effect  a  landing, 
no  easy  task,  as  the  sea  was  running  rather  high,  and  we 
had  to  search  amidst  a  heavy  surf  for  a  channel  through 
the  reef  encircling  Lakeba,  and  on  w^hich  Colonel 
Smythe's  vessel,  the  '  Pegasus,'  struck,  when  paying  a 
visit  a  few  months  afterwards.  I  have  often  admired  the 
grandeur  of  the  South  Sea  reef,  wrhen  the  water  breaks 
with  all  its  force  on  that  mighty  fabric  of  coral  and 
volcanic  rock ;  and  wondered  why  such  a  grand  sight 
has  not  as  yet  been  immortalized  by  some  great  painter 
in  search  of  a  fitting  subject  for  his  brush.  It  is  cer- 
tainly overpowering  to  sit  down  before  Niagara,  and 
watch  the  mighty  masses  of  water  steadily  pouring  into 
a  gigantic  basin.  Impossible,  one  thinks,  that  such  tuns 
and  tuns  can  be  discharged  without  the  supply  becom- 
ing exhausted.  Nevertheless  there  is  no  abatement. 
As  the  sun  rises  it  shines  upon  the  foaming  mass,  and 
its  last  rays  kiss  the  same  spectacle.  Like  eternity,  it  is 
endless ;  and  our  thoughts,  taken  captive  as  we  gaze  and 
gaze  on  the  massive  volumes,  are  wandering  towards 
those  realms  whence  no  traveller  has  returned.  The 
sight  of  a  great  South  Sea  reef  is  something  equally  grand, 
but  produces  a  rather  different  effect.  Besides  being 
influenced  by  wind  and  tides,  the  surf  assumes  almost 
every  moment  a  different  aspect.  Now  it  is  little  more 
than  a  long  line  of  silent  ripples,  now  it  is  lashed  into 


10  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

wild  spray  to  great  heighjt,  speaking  in  hollow  roars,  and 
showing  a  variety  of  tints  which  the  pen  must  ever  de- 
spair of  depicting.  So  far  from  becoming  absorbed  in 
thought  at  such  a  sight,  as  at  the  monotonous  grandeur 
of  Niagara,  one  longs  to  stir,  to  push  on,  to  become  ac- 
tive like  the  never-resting  element. 

Though  we  got  a  good  wetting,  and  might  have  been 
swamped  had  it  not  been  for  the  skilful  steering  of  our 
mate,  we  landed  in  safety.  As  soon  as  the  boat  was 
near  shore  fifty  or  sixty  natives  plunged  into  the  water 
to  carry  us  on  their  backs  to  the  beach,  when  we  shook 
hands  with  Mr.  Fletcher,  one  of  the  Wesleyan  mission- 
aries stationed  here.  The  natives  were  nearly  all  fine 
strapping  fellows,  some  of  them  quite  six  feet  high,  and 
all  Fijian,  with  the  exception  of  a  couple  of  Tonguese 
or  Tonga  men,  inhabitants  of  a  neighbouring  group  of 
islands.  One  of  the  latter  was  Charles,  the  son  of  the 
Tonguese  chief,  Maafu,  a  mighty  man  in  Polynesian 
annals,  and  the  source  of  much  trouble,  both  in  Tonga 
and  Fiji.  When  most  people  read  of  "  natives  "  they 
imagine  them  to  be  types  of  unsightliness,  if  not  down- 
right ugliness ;  of  many  races,  not  Caucasian,  that  may 
in  some  measure  be  true,  but  whoever  goes  to  the 
South  Seas  will  have  reason  to  change  his  opinion  en- 
tirely. Some  of  these  islanders  are  really  very  hand- 
some, both  in  figure  and  face ;  and  all  entitled  to  pro- 
nounce an  opinion  on  the  subject  have  agreed  that  there 
are  few  spots  in  the  world  where  one  sees  so  many  hand- 
some people  together  as  in  Tonga.  I  have  never  been 
in  Circassia,  and  can  therefore  not  speak  from  personal 
experience ;  but,  if  what  one  reads  be  correct,  Tonga  may 


THE   TONGUESE.  H 

fairly  be  classed  with  the  Tyrol  and  Circassia,  for  its 
male  population.  I  do  not  include  the  females,  because, 
according  to  our  taste,  the  women  of  Tonga,  like  those 
of  the  Tyrol,  are  too  masculine  and  robust  to  please  our 
conceptions  of  feminine  beauty.  When  I  looked  at  these 
Tonguese,  with  their  fine  athletic  body,  symmetrical, 
handsome  faces,  and  rich  dark  hair,  I  could  not  refrain 
from  thinking  what  caricatures  civilization  has  made  us. 
The  gait  of  such  a  man  is  something  to  wonder  at,  and 
sculptors  would  find  him  a  fine  subject  for  study.  Here 
they  might  obtain  models  almost  approaching  their 
notions  of  ideal  perfection,  instead  of  copying,  as  they 
now  too  often  are  compelled,  the  body  of  a  life-guards- 
man, the  head  of  a  footman,  and  the  hands  and  feet  of 
some  of  higher-bred  types. 

Charles  Maafu,  I  was  informed,  had  been  sent  to 
Lakeba  by  his  father,  as  a  punishment  for  several  larks 
the  young  rascal  had  been  up  to.  I  don't  wonder 
there  should  have  been  a  great  deal  of  temptation  in 
his  way,  for,  besides  being  the  son  of  a  powerful  chief,  a 
lineal  descendant  of  one  of  the  royal  houses  of  Tonga 
(Finau),  he  was  about  eighteen  years  of  age  and  ex- 
tremely handsome.  He  wore  only  a  few  yards  of  cotton 
cloth  around  his  loins,  and  an  ornament  made  of  mother 
of  pearl.  King  George,  of  Tonga,  had  proposed  to  have 
his  own  son  and  Charles  educated  at  Sydney.  The 
offer  was  unfortunately  declined  by  Maafu,  and  the  young 
man  had  thus  learnt  nothing  except  what  he  had  been 
able  to  pick  up  in  the  missionary  schools  of  the  islands. 

Through  a  fine  grove  of  cocoa-nut  palms  and  bread- 
fruit trees,  Mr.  Fletcher  kindly  conducted  us  to  his 


12  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

house,  a  commodious  building,  thatched  with  leaves, 
surrounded  by  a  fence  and  a  broad  boarded  verandah, 
the  front  of  the  house  looking  into  a  nice  little  flower- 
garden,  the  back  into  the  courtyard.  The  ladies  gave 
us  a  hearty  welcome,  no  doubt  being  glad  to  look  once 
more  upon  white  faces  and  hear  accounts  from  home. 
We  had  brought,  besides  provisions  and  stores  for  the 
next  year,  batches  of  letters  and  newspapers ;  and  those 
who  have  been  in  out-of-the-way  places,  and  obtained 
after  long  intervals  news  from  home,  will  be  able  to 
enter  into  the  joy  that  prevailed.  After  being  cramped 
on  board  a  vessel  for  so  many  weeks,  and  tossed  and 
rocked  about  night  and  day,  it  was  a  rare  pleasure  to  us 
to  sit  down  once  more  in  a  comfortable  house  on  shore ; 
and  comfortable  the  house  certainly  was.  Though  the 
thermometer  ranged  more  than  80°  Fahrenheit,  the  thick 
thatch  kept  off  the  scorching  rays,  and  there  was  a  fresh 
current  of  trade-wind  blowing  through  the  rooms.  It 
was  a  pleasing  sight  to  see  everything  so  scrupulously 
neat  and  clean,  the  beds  and  curtains  as  white  as  snow, 
and  everywhere  the  greatest  order  prevailing.  There 
were  all  the  elements  of  future  civilization,  models  ready 
for  imitation.  The  yard  was  well  stocked  with  ducks 
and  fowls,  pigs  and  goats,  the  garden  replete  with  flowers, 
roses  in  full  bloom,  but  alas !  with  little  scent,  cotton 
shrubs  twelve  feet  high,  and  bearing  leaves,  flowers,  and 
fruit,  in  all  stages  of  development.  These  missionary 
stations  are  fulfilling  all  the  objects  of  convents  in  their 
best  days.  When  all  around  was  barbarism,  strife,  and 
ignorance,  they  afforded  a  safe  refuge  to  the  weary  tra- 
veller,— as  they  still  do  in  the  East, — and  cultivated 


HINTS    TO    COLLECTORS.  13 

sconce  and  religion  at  a  time  when  scarcely  any  one 
thought  of  them.  When  you  have  reached  a  convent  in 
the  East,  or  a  mission-station  in  the  South  Sea,  you  seem 
to  be  nearer  home.  You  feel  that  you  are  amongst 
people  whose  sympathies  incline  into  the  same  direction 
as  your  own,  the  mode  of  living  also  beginning  to  tell 
upon  your  animal  spirits,  and  you  fly  to  the  library, 
limited  though  it  may  be,  to  have  an  hour  with  the 
great  minds  of  civilization. 

Our  stay  at  Lakeba  being  restricted  to  a  few  hours,  I 
made  all  possible  haste  to  collect  specimens  of  the  vege- 
tation. Quite  a  troop  of  boys  followed,  carrying  baskets 
which  they  made  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time, 
out  of  the  leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut  palm.  Determined 
to  collect  everything  we  could  lay  hands  on,  we  accumu- 
lated about  fifty  different  species,  forming  quite  a  load 
for  our  young  attendants.  The  true  secret  of  making 
comprehensive  collections,  whether  of  objects  of  any 
kind  or  details  of  information,  is  to  secure  them  if  pos- 
sible the  first  time  on  coming  in  contact  with  them. 
One  has  it  always  in  his  power  to  reject  what  is  worth- 
less. To  go  on  the  principle  that  you  may  come  to  a 
place  where  you  can  get  them  better,  is  an  unsound  one 
to  adopt,  and  one  that  often  leads  to  mortification. 
Not  only  do  the  eye  and  ear  get  accustomed  to  the 
objects  or  facts  of  search,  and  the  hand  neglects  to 
secure  them,  because  they  no  longer  strike  us  as  new, 
but  it  often  happens  that  they  are  extremely  local,  and 
are  never  met  with  again.  When  I  take  up  my  abode 
in  a  district,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  it  botanically 
for  instance,  I  begin  by  gathering  the  plants  that  grow 


14  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

around  my  abode,  instead  of  rushing  at  once  to  distant 
parts,  where  no  doubt  fine  treasures  may  be  expected. 
The  first  day  I  shall  probably  not  get  any  plants  save 
the  most  common  weeds,  and  most  likely  not  venture 
out  of  sight  of  head-quarters.  But  after  I  have  collected 
the  objects  with  which  under  any  circumstances  I  must 
become  familiar,  and  wrould  most  likely  fancy  I  had  in 
my  collection,  because  they  wrere  so  common,  I  am  able 
on  the  second  and  third  day  to  venture  a  good  deal 
further,  and  when  at  last  I  make  more  distant  excursions, 
I  am  at  least  certain  that  in  bringing  home  anything,  I 
am  not  carrying  coals  to  Newcastle  or  owls  to  Athens. 

The  boys  were  quite  indefatigable  in  assisting  me  to 
collect,  and  telling  me  the  different  local  names  of  the 
plants.  A  great  number  of  these  names  I  was  already 
acquainted  with,  having  learnt  them  from  the  Fijian 
dictionary,  and  it  did  not  take  many  weeks  before  I 
was  familiar  with  all  the  vernacular  nomenclature  of 
the  most  generally  diffused  organized  beings.  This  feat 
the  natives  could  never  comprehend.  They  thought  it 
strange  that  at  a  time  when  my  whole  knowledge  of 
Fijian  amounted  to  little  more  than  yes  or  no,  and  a 
few  sentences  absolutely  forced  upon  me,  I  should  be 
able  to  pronounce  the  names  of  almost  anything  they 
held  up  to  my  admiring  gaze.  The  Lakeban  boys  also 
took  us  to  a  ravine,  where  some  years  ago  Dr.  Harvey, 
of  Trinity  College,  Dublin,  had  collected  a  fine  fern 
(Dipteris  Horsfieldii,  J.  Smith),  which  has  magnificent 
fan-shaped  leaves,  when  growing  in  favourable  situa- 
tions, from  eight  to  ten  feet  high,  and  four  feet  across. 
The  plant  is  found  in  all  parts  of  Fiji,  New  Caledonia, 


BARK-CLOTH    MANUFACTURE.  15 

and  various  other  islands,  and  has  never  been  intro- 
duced into  our  gardens,  where  it  would  be  a  great  orna- 
ment, nor  did  any  of  my  specimens  survive  being  taken 
out  of  their  native  soil. 

Mr.  Fletcher  showed  us  over  the  town,  famous  as  the 
first  spot  in  Fiji  where  Christianity  was  triumphant  and 
a  printing-press  established.  The  church,  constructed 
in  native  fashion,  is  a  fine  substantial  building,  capable 
of  holding  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  people.  On  the 
open  place  before  it  was  spread  out  one  of  the  largest 
pieces  of  native  bark-cloth  I  have  ever  seen,  being  about 
one  hundred  feet  long  and  twenty  feet  wide.  This  was 
the  only  cloth  worn  before  the  recent  introduction  of 
cotton  fabrics.  Considering  that  it  was  manufactured 
without  the  aid  of  any  machinery,  simply  by  peeling  the 
bark  of  the  paper-mulberry,  when  the  tree  is  scarcely 
thicker  than  a  little  finger,  and  then  soaking  and  beat- 
ing the  different  pieces  in  such  a  way  that  they  expand 
and  all  join  together  in  one  large  mass,  the  piece  was 
well  deserving  to  be  examined.  But  perhaps  the  most 
curious  fact  is  that  not  only  did  the  Fijians,  as  indeed 
most  Polynesians,  know  how  to  make  such  cloth,  but 
they  also  printed  it  in  many  different  colours  and  pat- 
terns, probably  exercising  the  art  of  printing  ages  be- 
fore Guttenberg,  Coster,  or  whoever  else  may  lay  claim 
to  its  invention  in  Europe,  were  dreamt  of.  Was  it  of 
endemic  growth,  or  did  the  Fijians  derive  it  in  some 
way  from  China,  where  it  seems  to  have  been  practised 
from  time  immemorial  I 

Not  far  from  the  church  was  the  tomb  of  a  departed 
chief,  a  series  of  slabs  placed  perpendicularly  and  forming 


16  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

a  square  filled  up  by  mould,  over  which  a  kind  of  shed 
was  erected.  A  dense  grove  of  iron-wood  trees,  so  much 
reminding  us,  by  their  sombre  aspect,  of  our  pines,  form 
an  appropriate  accompaniment  to  the  place.  The  wind 
playing  in  the  branches,  caused  a  wailing  melancholy 
sound,  fully  impressing  me  with  the  idea  that  even  the 
savages  who  planted  these  trees  must  have  had  some 
sparks  of  poetry  in  their  composition.  It  is  a  strange 
ethnological  fact,  that  most  nations  surround  the  tombs 
of  those  dear  to  them  with  trees  belonging  to  the  pine 
tribe,  or  at  least  trees  partaking,  as  the  iron-wood  does, 
of  their  physiognomy.  The  Greeks  and  Turks  think 
the  cypress  a  befitting  expression  of  their  grief;  the 
Chinese,  the  beautiful  Cupressus  funebris ;  and  the  Ger- 
mans and  English,  the  arbor-vitse  and  yew.  All  attempts 
to  convince  people  that  a  graveyard  ought  to  have  as 
cheerful  a  look  as  such  a  drear  lonely  spot  can  ever  be 
expected  to  assume  have  in  the  long-run  proved  a  failure. 
Ivy-clad  church  walls,  mossy  tombstones,  and  sombre- 
looking  yews,  are  in  better  keeping  with  it  than  gay 
flower-beds  or  bright  tinsel. 

The  mission-station  at  Lakeba  is  close  to  a  great 
swamp,  and  cannot  be  very  healthy.  Many  more  salubri- 
ous spots  might  doubtless  be  found,  but  the  missionary, 
in  order  to  do  the  greatest  amount  of  good,  should  live 
amongst  his  flock,  and  avoid  every  kind  of  isolation. 
He  should  mix  with  them  as  freely  as  he  possibly  can, 
and,  on  the  principle  that  example  is  better  than  precept, 
exhibit  as  much  of  his  daily  family  life  as  is  compatible 
with  necessary  privacy.  From  that  point  of  view,  the 
place  has  been  well  chosen ;  but  it  is  certainly  a  great 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  17 

deal  to  expect  from  an  ill-paid  missionary,  to  expatriate 
himself,  and  take  up  his  abode  in  such  localities  as  these. 
I  felt  the  greatness  of  the  sacrifice  expected,  on  seeing 
here  the  widow  of  a  poor  fellow  who  had  died  only  a 
short  time  before  our  arrival.  Though  the  climate  of 
Fiji  cannot  be  termed  unhealthy,  the  Wesleyans  have  lost 
a  good  number  of  their  labourers  in  this  field.  In  some 
measure  this  calamity  may  be  accounted  for  by  their 
having  selected  men  physically  unfit  to  embark  in  such 
an  enterprise.  Excessive  zeal  should  not  be  the  only 
qualification.  To  expect  from  the  Great  Giver  and  Pre- 
server of  life,  that  it  would  please  Him  to  grant  a  body 
constitutionally  unqualified  for  the  trying  climate  of  the 
tropics  perfect  health  and  long  life,  would  be  a  miracle, 
outside  religious  circles  regarded  as  little  short  of  im- 
piety. Nor  from  an  economical  point  of  view  would  it 
seem  wise  to  go  to  the  expense  of  sending  out  men, 
whose  lives,  on  their  being  transferred  to  the  tropics, 
would  in  all  human  probability  not  be  worth  five  years' 
purchase. 

On  departing,  our  kind  friends  loaded  us  with  fresh 
vegetables,  yams,  taro,  and  plantains,  branches  of  Chi- 
nese bananas,  heaps  of  cocoa-nuts,  lemons,  eggs,  and 
bottles  full  of  milk, — highly  acceptable  presents  after 
nearly  a  month  at  sea.  Mrs.  Harrison,  who  had  been 
sea-sick  almost  the  whole  voyage,  seemed  quite  to  re- 
cover at  the  very  sight  of  them,  and  the  pleasure  they 
caused  on  board  much  reminded  me  of  the  foraging 
parties  we  used  to  have  amongst  the  Eskimos,  Kam- 
tchadales,  and  American  Indians,  in  days  gone  by,  when, 
sick  and  tired  of  salt  beef  and  pork,  we  would  willingly 

c 


18  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

part  with  any  article  of  barter  we  happened  to  have 
about  us,  in  order  to  obtain  fresh  provisions. 

It  was  a  fortunate  forethought  on  the  part  of  our 
Lakeban  friends  to  provide  us  in  this  way,  for  our 
voyage  to  the  next  station,  Wairiki,  situated  on  the 
north-western  shores  of  Taviuni,  was  to  be  rather  a  long 
one,  a  misfortune  which  we  did  not  fail  to  attribute  to 
our  starting  on  a  Friday,  though  the  captain  again  pro- 
tested. We  soon  made  Vuna  Point,  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  Taviuni,  but  there  wrere  so  baffled  by  variable 
winds  and  dead  calms,  that  it  was  deemed  prudent  to 
stand  off  and  on,  to  keep  clear  of  the  reefs,  which  ren- 
der the  navigation  of  this,  as  well  as  most  parts  of  the 
Fijian  group  a  matter  of  some  caution.  It  was  not  until 
Tuesday,  the  22nd  of  May,  more  than  a  week  after  our 
departure  from  Lakeba,  that  we  entered  the  Strait  of 
Somosomo,  and  cast  anchor  off  Wairiki,  native  town 
and  mission-station.  In  a  general  map  of  the  world 
the  Viti  group  looks  an  insignificant  speck,  and  one 
might  fancy  that  a  boat  would  quickly  pass  from  is- 
land to  island.  But  how  one  is  deceived  !  The  narrow 
channels  widen  into  broad  seas,  in  which  the  largest 
vessels,  under  proper  guidance,  have  ample  sea-room ; 
the  little  islands  expand  into  small  continents,  inha- 
bited by  untold  thousands  of  human  beings,  covered 
with  mountains  often  four  thousand  feet  high,  and 
traversed  by  rivers  that  may  be  followed  for  days  with- 
out reaching  their  source. 


19 


CHAPTEE  II. 

ISLAND  OF  TAVIUNI. — THE  KINO  OF  CAZAUDEOVE. — ELEPHANTIASIS.— 
KIND  OFFEE  OF  ME.  WATEEHOUSE  AND  CAPTAIN  WILSON. — SOMOSOMO, 
ITS  ADVANTAGES  AND  DISADVANTAGES. — QUEEN  ELEANOE. — ASCENT  OF 
SUMMIT  OF  TAVIUNI. — A  EOYAL  ESCOET. — SYLVAN  SCENE. — AEEIVAL  AT 

THE    TOP. SINGULAE    SWAMP    OF    VEGETABLE    TUETLE    FAT. — DINNEE. 

TIMIDITY    OF    THE     NATIVES. CHIEF    GOLEA*S     EETUEN    FEOM    A    MILI- 

TAEY   EXPEDITION. — POLYGAMY. — THE     EOTUMA-MEN. — WAIEIKI. — AEEI- 
VAL   OF    THE    '  PAUL    JONES.' 

THE  island  off  which  we  were  now  anchored  is  properly 
called  Taviuni,  erroneously  Vuna  by  Wilkes  and  the 
latest  Admiralty  charts.  It  is  the  third  island  in  size 
of  the  Vitian  group,  being  about  twenty-four  miles  long 
and  nine  broad,  running  from  south-west  to  north-east, 
and  being  traversed  by  a  chain  of  mountains  about 
two  thousand  feet  high,  the  tops  of  which  are  nearly 
always  enveloped  in  clouds.  Stately  cocoa-nut  palms 
gird  the  beach,  whilst  the  mountain-sides  are  covered 
by  dense  forests  full  of  fine  timber,  and  abounding 
in  wild  pigeons  and  the  Kula,  a  species  of  paroquet 
(Coriphilus  solitarius,  Latham),  valued  on  account  of 
its  scarlet  feathers,  by  the  Tonguese,  and  still  more 
by  the  Samoans,  for  ornamenting  mats.  Numerous 
streams  and  mountain-torrents,  fed  principally  by  a  lake 
at  the  summit,  descend  in  every  direction  and  greatly 

c  s 


20  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

add  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  northern  shores 
especially,  forming  in  conjunction  with  the  opposite 
island  of  Vanua  Levu  the  Straits  of  Somosomo,  teem 
with  vegetation,  and  present  a  picture  of  extreme 
fertility.  The  trees  and  bushes  are  very  thick,  and 
everywhere  overgrown  by  white,  blue,  and  pink  con- 
volvulus and  other  creepers,  often  entwined  in  graceful 
festoons.  Here  and  there  the  eye  descries  cleared 
patches  of  cultivation,  or  low  brushwood,  overtopped 
by  the  feathery  crowns  of  magnificent  tree-ferns ;  vil- 
lages nestling  among  them.  The  air  is  laden  with  mois- 
ture, and  there  is  scarcely  a  day  without  a  shower  of 
rain.  The  north-western  side  of  the  island  being  more- 
over, from  its  geographical  position,  deprived  of  the 
direct  action  of  the  trade  wind,  the  temperature  feels 
warm  when  in  other  parts  of  the  group  it  is  compara- 
tively cool.  In  consequence  of  this,  few  whites  have 
taken  up  their  residence  in  Taviuni,  and  the  mission- 
aries were  about  removing  to  Waikava,  on  Vanua  Levu, 
nearly  opposite  Wairiki,  where  their  houses  would  have 
the  benefit  of  the  trade  wind  and  the  sea  breezes.  Not 
mere  fancy  made  them  leave  Wairiki.  Their  health 
was  giving  way,  and  their  poor  children  suffered  severely 
from  a  disease  of  the  eyes.  Besides,  Taviuni  is  now 
thinly  inhabited  in  comparison  to  formerly.  The  towns 
of  Vuna,  Somosomo,  Weilangi,  Wainikeli,  and  Bouma 
have  only  a  small  population.  From  Wilkes's  descrip- 
tion, for  instance,  I  expected  to  find  Somosomo,  in  1840, 
the  capital  of  the  island  as  well  as  the  kingdom  of 
Cakaudrove,  a  large  place,  instead  of  a  mere  collection 
of  ten  houses,  with  neither  heathen  temple,  Christian 


THE   KING    OF    CAKAUDROVE.  21 

church,  nor  respectable  strangers'  house.  The  King  of 
Cakaudrove,  whose  official  title  is  Tui  Cakau,  had  re- 
moved his  court  from  Somosomo  to  Wairiki,  and  left 
the  government  of  Somosomo  to  his  younger  brother, 
Golea. 

Tui  Cakau  is  a  miserable-looking  man,  without  any 
chief-like  attributes.  He  is  below  the  middle  height, 
—in  the  eyes  of  Fijians,  who  entertain  a  great  con- 
tempt for  little  men,  a  serious  blemish;  suffering,  be- 
sides, from  elephantiasis  and  cutaneous  diseases,  his 
whole  appearance  is  not  prepossessing.  Elephanti- 
asis, incidentally  mentioned,  is  one  of  the  diseases 
to  which  Fijians  are  subject,  and  a  fearful  sight  it 
certainly  is,  when  the  feet  assume  dimensions  and 
shapes  that  make  them  more  like  those  of  elephants 
than  human  beings.  The  disease,  however,  is  gene- 
rally speaking,  very  local,  and  seems  to  be  particu- 
larly prevalent  in  low,  damp  valleys.  I  remember  going 
up  a  small  river  opposite  the  island  of  Naigani,  where 
almost  every  inhabitant  was  afflicted  by  this  calamity. 
Again,  I  have  seen  large  bodies  of  natives,  without  no- 
ticing a  single  case.  I  have  not  heard  of  any  white 
settlers  having  suffered  from  elephantiasis  in  Fiji,  though 
it  is  well  known  that  the  whites  in  Samoa,  Tahiti,  or 
other  Polynesian  groups,  are  not  free  from  this  visita- 
tion. No  one  knowing  the  cause  of  the  disease,  there 
are  of  course  many  hypotheses  respecting  it.  Every 
white  man  has  his  own,  and  one  pretty  generally  dif- 
fused is,  that  it  is  brought  on  by  drinking  cocoa-nut  milk. 
Yet  there  was  a  European  who,  acting  on  this  belief, 
and  scrupulously  avoiding  the  tempting  beverage,  never- 


22  A   MISSION  TO   VTTI. 

theless  became  a  victim,  and  had  instantly  to  leave  for 
colder  climes,  the  only  known  remedy  for  checking  its 
progress. 

Mr.  Joseph  Waterhouse,  the  chairman  of  the  Fijian 
district  of  Wesleyan  Mission,  kindly  asked  me  to  take 
up  my  residence  at  his  house  during  my  stay  in  Taviuni  ; 
but,  as  both  himself  and  Mr.  Carey,  his  coadjutor,  were 
about  to  proceed  to  the  annual  meeting  of  their  brethren 
in  Bau,  I  declined  the  offer,  and  accepted  instead  that 
of  Captain  Wilson,  my  fellow-voyager  from  Australia. 
Mr.  William  Coxon,  the  captain's  nephew,  and  manager 
of  the  cocoa-nut  oil  establishment  which  Captain  Wil- 
son and  M.  Jaubert,  of  Sydney,  had  a  few  years  ago 
planted  at  Somosomo,  came  in  his  boat  to  fetch  us, 
bringing  with  him  several  Eotuma  natives,  who  had 
been  employed  in  the  establishment,  and  were  willing 
to  work  their  passage  in  the  '  John  Wesley '  to  Sydney, 
thence  to  watch  for  a  vessel  to  their  island  home. 

The  distance  from  Wairiki  to  Somosomo  is  only  six 
miles,  and  a  fine  breeze  soon  brought  us  there.  The 
water  off  the  latter  place  is  shallow,  leaving  a  large  flat 
of  rocks  at  ebb-tide.  Captain  Wilson  warned  me  not 
to  expect  any  but  the  roughest  accommodation,  as  no 
proper  dwelling-house  had  as  yet  been  erected.  I  was 
quite  contented  with  what  I  found  ;  two  sheds,  one  con- 
taining a  hydraulic  press  for  making  oil,  a  large  house 
for  drying  the  cocoa-nuts,  which  also  served  for  dry- 
ing my  plants,  and  a  small  dwelling-house,  all  built  in 
native  fashion,  and  thatched  with  the  leaves  of  the 
sugar-cane.  A  grove  of  stately  cocoa-nut  palms  diffused 
an  agreeable  shade  over  the  place,  and  trees  laden  with 


SOMOSOMO.  23 

bread-fruit,  lemons,  and  oranges  were  dotted  about. 
Almost  immediately  behind  the  house  rose  a  small 
hill  of  rich  vegetable  mould,  covered  with  beautiful 
tree-ferns,  over  which  different  kinds  of  convolvulus 
—blue,  white  and  purple — were  hanging  in  natural 
garlands.  Following  the  gravelly  beach  for  about  a 
hundred  yards  on  either  side  of  the  premises,  one  would 
come  to  a  mountain  stream,  splashing,  foaming,  and 
murmuring  in  its  rocky  bed,  and  offering  capital  accom- 
modation for  bathing.*  The  ground,  for  some  miles 
distant  gently  rising,  passes  abruptly  into  steeper  moun- 
tains. There  was  little  cleared  land,  though  the  soil 
is  fertile,  and  there  being  few  paths  the  woods  were  diffi- 
cult to  penetrate. 

Fortunately  a  person  need  not  be  on  the  look-out  for 
wild  beasts, — there  are  none  to  molest  him.  Snakes, 
about  four  feet  long,  and  of  a  light-brown  colour,  fre- 
quenting trees,  especially  cocoa-nut  palms,  to  feed  upon 
the  insects  attracted  by  the  flowers,  are  the  only  animals 
that  now  and  then  startle  him.  Perhaps  another  source  of 
annoyance  in  this  earthly  paradise,  are  the  myriads  of 
flies  that  follow  one  in  the  woods,  and  keep  him  con- 
stantly employed ;  but  as  a  set-off  against  this  must  be 
put  the  good  behaviour  of  the  mosquitoes,  which  are 
neither  very  numerous  nor  keep  late  hours,  but  leave 
at  dusk,  and  do  not  appear  again  till  after  breakfast. 
Somosomo  has,  besides,  the  reputation  of  producing  dy- 
sentery, which  the  natives,  in  the  belief  that  it  was  un- 

*  Here  a  spiny  fresh- water  shell  I  discovered  abounds,  called,  in  honour 
of  Mr.  Consul  Pritchard,  Neritina  Pritchardii,  Dohr.,  by  one  of  our 
rising  conchologists. 


24  A    MISSION   TO    V1TI. 

known  before  the  visits  of  white  men,  term  "  the  white 
man's  disease."  However,  none  of  us  were  attacked  by 
it  during  our  stay,  though  we  were  constantly  exposed 
to  sun  and  rain,  and  ultimately  out  of  biscuit,  which 
served  us  for  bread.  The  natives  also  believe  dysentery 
catching,  and  hence  will  carefully  avoid  contact  with  a 
person  suffering  from  that  infliction.  They  will  never 
sit  down  on  a  seat  or  lie  down  on  a  mat  one  of  these 
invalids  has  occupied,  and  moreover  often  compel  the 
poor  sufferers  to  retire  into  the  depths  of  the  forests  until 
they  shall  have  recovered.  Curiously  enough,  those  Poly- 
nesian islands  free  from  dysentery,  as,  for  instance,  the 
Samoan  group,  are  visited  by  fever,  and  those  free  from 
fever,  as  Fiji  and  others,  are  liable  to  dysentery.* 

Chief  Golea  was  absent  on  a  fighting  expedition  to 
Vanua  Levu,  but  his  wife  Eleanor  was  at  home,  and 
paid  us  a  visit  on  our  arrival,  accompanied  by  two  young 
women,  also  wives  of  Golea.  Eleanor  is  the  niece  of 
Cakobau  ( =  Thakombau),  King  of  Fiji  and  Chief  of 
Bau.  She  is  much  higher  in  rank  than  her  husband, 
who  is  only  a  younger  son  of  a  king  under  the  suze- 
rainty of  her  uncle.  Bau  has  always  understood  how  to 


*  The  early  stages  of  dysentery  are  easily  checked  by  eating  basinfuls 
of  the  native  arrowroot  (Tacca  pinnatifida  and  sativa)  so  plentiful  about 
Fiji,  especially  on  the  sandy  beaches,  and  by  avoiding  bananas  and  plan- 
tains, which  I  quite  agree  with  Eumphius  and  Forster  in  considering  as 
helping  to  bring  on  this  disease.  The  arrowroot  should  be  made  so  thick 
that  a  spoon  will  stand  upright  in  it,  and  taken  with  a  little  nutmeg,  and 
if  possible  white  sugar.  I  found  no  arrowroot  to  be  so  effective  as  that  of 
the  South  Sea,  and  when,  after  my  return  from  Fiji,  I  had  a  serious 
attack  of  dysentery  in  London,  and  was  unable  to  get  my  favourite  remedy, 
no  shop  having  it  genuine,  I  had  an  illness  of  several  months,  which  nearly 
proved  fatal. 


FONDNESS  OF  NATIVES  FOR  BOOKS.         25 

guard  against  the  centrifugal  tendency  of  Fiji  and  pre- 
serve its  political  superiority ;  and  giving  Bauan  women 
of  rank  to  petty  chiefs  has  been  one  of  the  means  em- 
ployed. A  queen  thus  married  would  still  hold  the 
same  position  she  did  before  marriage,  and  her  sons 
would,  as  "  vasus"  have  great  privileges  at  Bau,  and  be 
identified  with  her  prosperity.  Eleanor  was  a  tall,  fine- 
looking  woman,  of  much  lighter  colour  than  the  gene- 
rality of  her  countrywomen,  a  cheerful  countenance, 
and  possessed  of  dignity  and  self-possession.  Consider- 
ing the  scantiness  of  her  dress,  this  is  saying  very 
much  in  her  praise.  Though  her  husband  and  most  of 
his  other  wives  were  still  heathens,  she  was  a  Christian, 
and  I  believe  a  sincere  one,  judging  from  the  almost 
frantic  manner  in  which  she  endeavoured  to  obtain  a 
Fijian  Bible  seen  in  my  possession.  She  exhausted 
every  argument  to  get  it,  and  her  joy  was  indescribable 
when  her  wishes  were  acceded  to.  It  was  much  in- 
creased by  the  volume  being  the  Viwa  edition,  which 
is  preferred  to  the  London,  not  only  because  it  is  a 
larger  book  and  printed  in  the  islands,  but  also  be- 
cause in  the  recent  London  edition  some  changes  have 
been  introduced  of  which  the  natives  do  not  approve. 
The  Fijians  are  fond  of  books,  especially  large  ones, 
even  if  written  in  languages  not  understood  by  them. 
Some  of  the  whites  maintain  that  this  is  simply  be- 
cause they  use  them  as  cartridge  paper,  but  I  do  not 
believe  this  to  be  generally  the  case.  I  had  several 
good  offers  for  Endlicher's  'Genera  Plantarum,'  and 
other  large  well-bound  volumes,  though  never  any  for 
the  bales  of  botanical  drying-paper  I  carried  about  with 


26  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

me.  Eleanor,  notwithstanding  her  high  rank,  did  not 
seem  to  exempt  herself  from  any  of  the  duties  devolving 
upon  Fijian  women.  I  often  saw  her  go  fishing  on  the 
reef,  and  being  up  to  her  waist  in  water.  One  night, 
when  all  was  silent,  and  we  were  sitting  in  the  house 
reading  and  writing,  we  heard  her  call  loudly  for  help, 
and  on  rushing  down  to  the  beach,  we  found  that  she 
and  two  other  women  had  caught  a  large  turtle  in  their 
net,  and  were  holding  on  to  the  splashing  animal  with 
all  their  might,  until  assistance  could  be  obtained. 

On  the  30th  of  May,  we  ascended  for  the  first  time 
the  summit  of  Somosomo ;  Captain  Wilson,  Mr.  Coxon, 
and  several  men  kindly  sent  from  the  mission  at  Wairiki, 
accompanied  us,  carrying  baskets,  for  making  collec- 
tions. The  Queen  of  Somosomo,  hearing  of  our  inten- 
tion, joined  the  expedition  with  her  whole  court.  At 
daybreak  we  found  her  train  waiting  for  us,  on  the 
banks  of  a  river,  all  fully  equipped  for  the  occasion. 
A  few  strokes  of  the  pen  will  describe  their  dress.  The 
Queen  wore  two  yards  of  white  calico  around  her  loins, 
fern-leaves  around  her  head,  the  purple  blossom  of  the 
Chinese  rose  in  a  hole  pierced  through  one  of  her  ears, 
and  a  bracelet  made  of  a  shell.  No  other  garment 
graced  her  stately  person,  and  yet  she  looked  truly  ma- 
jestic. Her  attendants  dispensed  with  the  calico  alto- 
gether, and  were  simply  attired  in  portions  of  banana 
and  cocoa-nut  leaves  fresh  from  the  bush,  which  was  so 
far  convenient  to  them  as  they  were  ordered  to  push 
ahead,  make  a  road,  and  shake  the  dew  and  rain  from 
the  branches  obstructing  the  way.  In  our  European 
clothes,  we  stood  no  chance  in  keeping  up  with  them. 


A    SYLVAN    SCENE.  27 

They  were  always  a  long  distance  ahead,  waiting  for 
our  coming  up,  and  enjoying  themselves  in  opening 
cocoa-nuts,  and  smoking  cigarettes,  made  with  dry  ba- 
nana leaves  instead  of  paper. 

The  ascent  was  rather  steep,  and  Mr.  Storck  had  the 
misfortune  to  hurt  himself  rather  seriously  from  falling 
down  a  considerable  precipice,  just  when  in  the  act  of 
gathering  some  botanical  specimens.  The  road  was  very 
bad,  the  forest  being  so  thick  that  no  glimpse  of  the 
sun  could  fall  upon  a  soil  saturated  with  excessive  mois- 
ture. Large  trees  and  abundant  underwood  of  small 
palms  and  tree-ferns  produced  a  solemn  gloom,  and 
made  us  long  for  a  look  at  the  sky.  Wild  pigeons  of 
a  brown  colour,  and  in  very  good  condition  for  eating, 
there  abounded,  and  a  number  were  brought  down  by 

« 

our  guns.  As  we  were  pushing  on,  collecting  all  that 
came  in  our  way,  and  now  jumping  over  rivulets,  now 
climbing  over  rocks,  we  suddenly  arrived  at  an  open 
space,  exhibiting  a  beautiful  view  of  the  whole  Straits 
of  Somosomo.  The  eye  passing  over  a  dense  belt  of 
forest,  espied  the  islands  of  Rabi,  Kioa,  and  Vanua  Levu, 
the  reefs  showing  very  plainly  by  the  surf  breaking  upon 
them,  whitish  fleeting  clouds  occasionally  passing  be- 
tween us  and  this  fine  panorama. 

The  women  had  kindled  a  fire,  and  thought  it  a  good 
place  to  take  refreshment.  The  Queen  was  seated  on 
the  top  of  a  rock,  the  maids  of  honour  grouped 
around  her.  It  was  a  pretty  sight.  The  dark  beauties, 
the  really  artistic  effect  of  their  ornamental  leaves 
and  flowers,  the  easy  grace  of  their  movements,  made 
them  look  like  so  many  nymphs  that  one  reads  of  in 


28  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

classic  story,  but  never  seems  to  meet  with  nowadays. 
As  we  were  taking  our  luncheon,  the  Queen  asked  nu- 
merous questions  about  our  system  of  monogamy.  For 
her  part,  she  could  never  bring  herself  really  to  esteem 
a  man  contented  with  one  wife,  and  she  was  glad  her 
husband  was  a  polygamist.  Of  course  we  tried  to  con- 
vince her  of  our  way  of  looking  upon  the  subject,  but, 
having  fairly  refuted  our  assumption  that  women  do  not 
like  to  see  their  husband's  affection  distributed  over  a 
whole  harem,  she  almost  got  the  best  of  the  argument. 

After  another  hour's  scramble  we  reached  the  summit, 
and  found  it  to  all  appearance  a  large  extinct  crater 
filled  with  water,  and  on  the  north-eastern  part  covered 
with  a  vegetable  mass,  so  much  resembling  in  colour 
and  appearance  the  green  fat  of  the  turtle,  as  to  have 
given  rise  to  the  popular  belief  that  the  fat  of  all  the 
turtles  eaten  in  Fiji  is  transported  hither  by  superna- 
tural agency,  which  is  the  reason  why  on  the  morning 
after  a  turtle-feast  the  natives  always  feel  very  hungry. 
This  jelly-like  mass  is  several  feet  thick,  and  entirely 
composed  of  some  microscopic  cryptogams,  which,  from 
specimens  I  submitted  to  the  Rev.  M.  J.  Berkeley, 
a  weighty  authority  in  these  matters,  proved  to  be 
Hoomospora  transversalis  of  Brebisson,  and  the  repre- 
sentative of  quite  a  new  genus,  named  Hoomonema 
fluitanS)  Berkl.  A  tall  species  of  sedge  was  growing 
among  them,  and  gave  some  degree  of  consistency  to 
the  singular  body.  We  were  not  aware  until  it  was  too 
late  that  these  strange  productions  were  only  floating 
on  the  top  of  the  lake  and  forming  a  kind  of  crust,  or 
else  we  should  not  have  ventured  upon  it.  On  the  con- 


DINNER   AT   A   LAKE.  29 

trary,  we  took  it  to  be  part  of  a  swamp,  that  might 
safely  be  crossed,  though  not  without  difficulty,  for  we 
were  always  up  to  our  knees,  often  to  our  hips,  in  this 
jelly.  All  this  caused  a  great  deal  of  merriment.  A 
little  hunchback,  who  carried  a  basket  swinging  on  a 
stick,  looked  most  ludicrous  in  his  endeavours  to  keep 
pace  with  us.  Now  and  then,  when  one  or  the  other 
was  trying  to  save  himself  from  sinking  into  inextricable 
positions,  he  had  to  crawl  like  a  reptile,  and  the  others 
were  not  slow  to  laugh  at  his  expense.  The  first  symp- 
toms of  danger  were  several  large  fissures  which  oc- 
curred in  the  crust  we  were  wading  through.  The 
water  in  them  was  perfectly  clear,  and  a  line  of  many 
yards  let  down  reached  no  bottom.  These  fissures  be- 
came more  and  more  numerous  as  wre  advanced,  until 
the  vegetable  mass  abruptly  terminated  in  a  lake  of 
limpid  water  full  of  eels.  The  border  was  rather  more 
solid  than  the  mass  left  behind,  and  all  sat  down  to 
rest,  from  the  great  exertion  it  had  required  to  drag 
ourselves  for  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  through  one 
of  the  worst  swamps  I  ever  crossed.  As  it  was  getting 
quite  a  fashionable  hour  for  dinner,  and  our  appetite 
was  becoming  more  keen  every  minute,  we  determined 
not  to  postpone  it  any  longer;  cold  yams,  taros,  and 
fowls,  washed  down  with  a  bottle  of  Australian  wine 
mixed  with  water  from  the  lake,  constituted  our  meal. 

The  sides  of  the  lake  were  covered  with  scarlet  myr- 
tles and  a  fine  feathery  palm  (Kentia  exorrhiza,  Herm. 
Wendl.)  closely  allied  to  those  of  New  Zealand  and  Nor- 
folk Island,  but  different.  There  were,  besides,  many 
other  plants,  too  numerous  to  be  enumerated  here,  that 


30  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

yielded  a  rich  harvest.  I  should  have  liked  to  tarry 
much  longer  than  I  did,  but  the  natives  became  de- 
sirous of  returning,  and  as  the  sun  was  gradually  de- 
clining, there  was  no  retaining  them.  Our  company 
dwindled  down  to  a  few  faithful  attendants,  and  even 
these  were  speedily  reduced  to  one,  Ambrose,  a  native 
teacher,  and  a  man  deservedly  valued  by  the  mission- 
aries. Having  to  be  in  the  forest  late  in  the  evening 
is  to  the  Fijians  something  terrible.  They  see  ghosts 
and  evil-intentioned  spirits  start  up  in  every  direction, 
and  to  escape  falling  victims  to  their  anger,  they  yell 
and  shout  at  the  top  of  their  voice,  like  children  when 
left  in  the  dark  at  night.  We  regained  Somosomo, 
dreadfully  tired  and  covered  all  over  with  mud,  but  well 
satisfied  with  our  day's  excursion,  and  it  was  not  long 
before  we  were  in  bed,  under  two  blankets,  which  in 
June  and  July  are  never  found  too  warm  in  Fiji. 

On  the  31st  of  May,  Golea,  the  chief  of  Somosomo, 
returned  from  his  fighting  expedition.  It  was  a  fine 
scene ;  six  war-canoes  with  their  large  triangular  sails 
skimming  before  the  wind,  the  warriors  on  board,  dan- 
cing, shouting,  singing,  and  sounding  the  conch-shell. 
Eleanor,  accompanied  by  the  whole  seraglio  of  the  chief, 
hastened  to  the  beach,  in  order  to  welcome  their  lord 
and  master  by  clapping  of  hands,  dancing,  and  sing- 
ing. There  being  no  men  at  home,  the  little  hunchback 
of  Golea's  establishment  came  breathless  to  our  place, 
begging  Mr.  Coxon  to  pull  the  trigger  of  a  pop-gun 
which  was  to  be  fired  the  moment  his  highness  stepped 
on  shore,  but  which  no  one  had  the  courage  to  touch. 
Golea,  soon  after  landing,  paid  us  a  visit.  He  was  a 


EASY   VICTORY.  31 

fine  man,  about  twenty  years  of  age,  and  more  than  six 
feet  high,  with  intelligent  features,  and  as  melodious  a 
voice  as  I  ever  heard.  Like  most  of  his  fighting-men, 
his  face  was  blacked  with  charcoal  obtained  from  the 
Qumu-tree  (Acacia  Michei,  A.  Gray).  Over  his  luxuriant 
head  of  hair  he  wore  the  sala,  made  of  a  very  fine  piece 
of  white  native  cloth,  and  looking  somewhat  like  a 
turban.  Around  his  loins  he  wore  a  narrow  strip  of 
bark-cloth,  done  up  in  the  T-bandage  fashion.  Arms 
and  legs  were  decorated  with  bands  made  of  the  bleached 
leaves  of  the  Voivoi,  a  species  of  screw-pine ;  whilst  a 
boar's  tooth,  nearly  circular,  was  suspended  around  his 
neck.  Golea,  flushed  with  victory,  gave  us  a  rather 
circumstantial  account  of  his  recent  exploits,  the  first 
I  believe  he  had  ever  been  engaged  in  on  his  own  ac- 
count, and,  being  a  young  man,  he  made  the  most  of 
them.  His  object  had  been  to  punish  some  district  of 
Vanua  Levu  for  having,  three  years  ago,  killed  his  bro- 
ther. He  had  taken  nine  towns,  which  he  assured  us 
had  been  a  great  achievement.  Soon  afterwards  we 
heard  another  version  of  the  affair,  according  to  which 
the  inhabitants,  not  appreciating  the  idea  of  being 
clubbed,  had  adopted  the  maxim  of  running  away  in 
order  to  live  to  fight  another  day.  This  fully  accounted 
for  only  two  killed,  one  an  old  woman,  the  other  a  child ; 
and  malice,  as  venomous  in  Fiji  as  elsewhere,  added  that 
even  these  two  had  only  been  knocked  down  and  would 
probably  recover.  We  may  rejoice  that  no  more  serious 
calamities  attended  Golea's  expeditions,  which  may  be 
said  to  have  closed  a  long  line  of  murders.  Golea's 
father,  Tui  Kilakila,  in  February  1854,  was  murdered, 


32  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

by  the  hands  of,  or,  as  some  assert,  at  the  instigation  of, 
his  own  son,  who  then  succeeded  him  to  the  throne  of 
Cakaudrove.  A  second  brother,  to  avenge  his  father's 
foul  murder,  committed  fratricide,  and  was  in  his  turn 
assassinated  by  the  people  whom  Golea  had  just  re- 
turned from  punishing. 

Golea,  on  my  asking  him  when  he  would  follow  his 
eldest  brother  in  embracing  Christianity,  replied  that 
his  religion  was  fighting,  and  that  he  did  not  as  yet 
think  of  becoming  a  disciple  of  the  new  faith.  One  of 
his  great  objections  seemed  to  be  its  allowing  him  only 
one  wife,  whilst  now  he  had  an  extensive  harem,  to 
which  he  continually  made  new  additions.  The  Wes- 
ley ans  have  invariably  refused  to  admit  as  members  of 
their  society,  any  professed  native  Christians  who  would 
not  give  up  polygamy.  Of  course,  among  Protestants, 
any  sect  is  at  perfect  liberty  to  adhere  to  whatever  rules 
and  regulations  it  may  think  fit  to  impose  upon  itself, 
and  no  words  should  be  lost  upon  the  discussion  of  it 
by  laymen.  But  when  taking  a  common-sense  view  of 
the  case,  whether  polygamists  on  becoming  Christians 
should  put  all  save  one  wife  away,  it  assumes  a  differ- 
ent aspect,  which  the  Bishop  of  Natal  has  done  good 
service  in  ventilating.  To  say  that  discarded  wives  of 
a  polygamist  may  find  husbands  argues  nothing ;  so  may 
fallen  women  of  our  own  country.  According  to  the  lex 
loci,  the  wives  enjoy  a  legitimate  existence  before  the 
general  adoption  of  Christianity.  By  declaring  them  il- 
legitimate, a  serious  wrong  is  inflicted  upon  them.  And 
why  do  evil  that  good  may  come  ?  These  women,  sud- 
denly deprived  of  the  consciousness  that  they  are  legiti- 


POLYGAMY.  33 

mate  and  respectable,  and,  without  their  fault,  becom- 
ing illegitimate  and  outcasts,  are  driven  from  a  home 
to  which  they  are  bound  by  many  ties.  Had  less  ob- 
jection been  offered  to  polygamy,  far  greater  progress 
might  have  been  made  in  christianizing  Polynesia 
and  many  other  parts  of  the  world,  where  a  man  is  esti- 
mated in  a  great  measure  by  the  number  of  his  wives, 
and  it  becomes  a  serious  thing  to  ask  him  to  lower 
himself  in  public  estimation  by  putting  away  all  his 
wives  save  one.  Had  or  were  the  broad  principle 
admitted,  that  a  man  might  remain  a  polygamist 
on  becoming  Christian,  but  not  add  to  his  number, 
many  would  have  been  induced  to  join  the  Christian 
community  who,  under  present  circumstances,  hung  back 
as  long  as  they  possibly  could.  The  whole  question 
has  often  presented  itself;  and,  in  the  earlier  stages 
of  Christianity,  the  Church  distinctly  proclaimed  the 
necessity  of  admitting  polygamists.  Of  course,  as  all 
males  born  of  the  newly-converted  would  at  once  be- 
come Christians,  and  only  be  allowed  to  have  one 
wife,  polygamy  would  die  out  altogether  in  one  gene- 
ration. I  am  persuaded  that  this  is  the  right  view 
to  take  of  the  subject,  whatever  some  theologians  may 
argue  to  the  contrary.  When  at  Bau,  the  subject  of  suc- 
cession to  the  throne  was  discussed,  and  the  missionaries 
were  for  seeing  it  descend  upon  Cakobau's  youngest 
son,  because  he  was  the  son  of  his  Christian  wife,  a  boy 
of  very  tender  age ;  and  to  fix  the  stigma  of  bastardy 
upon  his  eldest  son,  the  child  of  the  highest  woman  of 
his  household,  and  to  whom  the  king  was  not  married 
by  Christian  ritual,  yet  legitimately  united  according  to 

D 


34  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Fijian  customs.  Were  the  case  tried  before  any  com- 
petent tribunal,  no  doubt  it  would  be  given  in  favour  of 
the  eldest  son, — a  fine  manly  fellow,  who  would  well  de- 
serve the  honour  he  was  to  be  deprived  of. 

Golea  asked  for  grog, — -which  the  natives  term  "  Ya- 
qona  ni  papalagi"  or  foreign  Kava, — but  was  told  that 
there  was  none  in  the  house.  He  then  begged  to  be 
supplied  with  a  cup  of  tea,  which  was  cheerfully  given. 
Some  of  the  Fijians  are  gradually  acquiring  a  taste  for 
intoxicating  drinks,  as  most  other  Polynesians  have  done, 
and  there  is  not  a  more  painful  task  than  to  be  obliged 
to  refuse  supplying  them.  However,  I  do  not  think 
that  the  dark-coloured  races  of  Polynesia,  including 
amongst  others  the  Fijians  and  New  Caledonians,  have 
that  intense  longing  for  spirits  characteristic  of  the 
Hawaiians,  Samoans,  Tonguese,  and  other  light-coloured 
races,  who  are  great  slaves  to  it,  notwithstanding  all 
that  is  done  to  check  a  habit  which  helps  so  mate- 
rially to  decimate  them.  Yet,  whether  this  difference 
is  merely  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  former  have  not 
had  such  unrestricted  intercourse  with  the  whites  as 
the  latter,  or  whether  sobriety  is  to  them  a  virtue  as 
easy  to  exercise  as  it  is  to  the  Spaniards  and  Italians  in 
comparison  to  the  Teutonic  nations,  the  future  alone 
will  show.  The  lower  class  of  whites  are  setting  them  a 
bad  example,  and  one  has  often  reason  to  blush  for  his 
own  race.  Whilst  I  was  in  the  islands  the  first  grog- 
shops were  opened  at  Levuka,  and  several  others  have 
since  been  established  in  Bau,  and  other  parts  of  the 
group.  What  has  always  surprised  me  is,  that  con- 
sidering the  Fijian  to  be  a  tropical  climate,  most  of 


ROTUMA    MEN.  35 

these  great  drunkards  enjoy  such  a  long  life.  They 
boast — whether  it  be  true  I  had  no  means  of  testing — 
that  they  are  often  intoxicated  two  months  at  a  time. 
One  of  the  oldest  white  settlers  always  bought  a  large 
cask  of  spirits  whenever  he  had  the  chance,  and,  as  he 
did  not  know  when  he  should  have  another,  he  took  the 
daily  precaution  to  fill  up  the  cask  with  as  much  water 
as  he  had  drunk  spirits. 

On  the  1st  of  June,  one  of  the  Eotuma  men,  work- 
ing in  the  establishment,  died.  His  countrymen  seemed 
to  feel  his  loss  very  much,  as  he  had  been  a  petty 
chief  among  them,  and  they  proceeded  to  bury  him 
in  their  own  fashion.  The  body  was  wrapped  up  in 
cloth,  and  a  mound  raised  about  two  feet  above  the 
ground,  large  stones  being  placed  all  around,  and  the 
inside  filled  up  with  gravel  from  the  beach.  Rotuma 
is  a  small  island  three  hundred  miles  north  of  this 
group,  and  belonging  to  the  Fijian  Consulate.  Some 
years  ago,  the  Wesleyans  endeavoured  to  establish  a 
permanent  mission  there,  but,  although  succeeding  in 
making  a  few  converts,  they  were  forced  to  abandon 
the  field.  The  ruling  chief,  described  as  a  fine  young 
fellow,  having  made  a  voyage  to  Sydney,  where  he 
was  well  received, — even,  if  report  be  true,  at  Govern- 
ment House, — had  been  persuaded  by  some  whites  and 
a  New  Zealander,  who  gained  influence  over  him,  that 
if  he  wished  to  preserve  the  independence  of  his  coun- 
try he  must  not  admit  missionaries,  as  they  proved  in- 
variably the  harbingers  of  national  annihilation.  The 
Wesleyans  therefore  received  intimation  to  withdraw 
their  Tongan  teachers,  and  the  few  native  converts  re- 

D  2 


36  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

turned  to  their  former  religion,  the  principal  features 
of  which  seem  to  be  a  belief  in  a  Supreme  Being,  and 
the  worship  of  ancestors.  The  French  have  been  more 
successful  in  the  neighbouring  island  of  Fotuna,  where 
the  Roman  Catholic  priests  established  a  flourishing 
mission. 

The  Eotuma  men  can  nearly  all  speak  a  little  En- 
glish ;  they  are  a  good-looking  people,  with  as  light  a 
skin  as  the  Tonguese,  rich  black,  often  curly,  hair,  worn 
very  long,  and  regular,  frequently  Jewish,  features.  The 
latter  peculiarity  has  been  remarked  by  all  who  have 
visited  Rotuma,  and  amongst  the  men  working  on  the 
Somosomo  estate  there  was  one  who  bore  the  nickname 
of  "  Moses,"  in  consequence  of  his  undeniable  resem- 
blance to  an  unadulterated  Hebrew.  They  circumcise, 
tattoo  around  the  loins,  and  perforate  the  left  ear,  into 
which  they  put  a  gay  flower,  or  the  rolled  up  leaf  of 
the  Dracaena  terminalis.  The  Rotuma  men  are  a  hard- 
working set,  and,  if  Fiji  should  become  a  European 
colony,  their  island  will  be  likely  to  supply  a  good 
number  of  useful  hands.  I  have  seen  them  pull  an  oar 
all  day  long  under  a  broiling  tropical  sun,  or  work  away 
at  the  mill  and  oil-presses,  without  ever  losing  their 
good  temper  or  complaining.  True,  in  Somosomo  they 
were  well  fed,  and  had  as  much  as  they  liked  to  eat  of 
yam,  pork,  or  fish.  Hardly  a  day  elapsed  without  a  pig 
being  clubbed  for  their  especial  benefit.  One  of  them 
invariably  attended  to  the  cooking,  not  only  for  the  men 
but  also  for  us.  He  gloried  in  the  name  of  Koytoo,  and 
was  the  youngest  and  best-looking  of  the  lot,  with  rich 
curly  hair,  and  a  figure  as  symmetrically  formed  as  a 


OUR    COMMISSARIAT   DEPARTMENT.  37 

sculptor  could  desire  to  copy.  Two  yards  of  blue  striped 
calico  was  his  simple  garb.  When  I  first  took  up  my 
abode  under  Captain  Wilson's  hospitable  roof,  Koytoo 
could  not  even  be  termed  a  plain  cook.  He  excelled 
in  boiling  and  roasting  yam,  and  in  frying  pork  in  the 
European  fashion,  but  beyond  that  his  acquirements  did 
not  extend.  It  was  I  who  gave  him  the  benefit  of  the 
culinary  experience  gained  during  my  long  travels,  by  ini- 
tiating him  into  the  mysteries  of  making  coffee,  tea,  pan- 
cakes (without  eggs),  fritters,  chicken  and  turtle  soup. 
For  a  yard  of  calico  the  Queen  would  sell  us  six  fowls  in 
the  bush;  but  here  we  found  how  true  was  the  old  pro- 
verb, "A  bird  in  the  hand  is  worth  two  in  the  bush."  As 
will  be  explained  in  another  place,  the  Fijian  fowls  are 
far  from  being  domesticated;  they  are  to  all  intents  and 
purposes  wild.  Now  and  then  they  show  themselves 
near  the  dwellings,  to  pick  up  the  offal,  but  as  soon  as 
any  one  makes  an  attempt  to  catch  them  they  are  off, 
and  the  only  expedient  to  get  them  is  by  shooting.  In 
the  tropics,  to  eat  day  after  day  pork  and  yam,  the 
usual  food  of  Fiji,  is  not  very  tempting,  and  we  there- 
fore endeavoured  to  introduce  some  diversity  into  our 
mode  of  living,  by  obtaining  as  many  fowls  as  we  could. 
Often  and  often  did  Messrs.  Storck  and  Coxon  leave 
their,  I  cannot  say  soft,  couch  at  dawn  to  have  a  crack 
at  them ;  but  the  birds  were  so  cunning  that  no  sooner 
did  they  creep  near  the  place  whence  the  crowing  pro- 
ceeded, than  they  were  silent  or  had  decamped.  Eggs 
were  but  seldom  seen.  The  Fijians  consider  it  babyish 
to  eat  them,  and  cannot  be  induced  to  look  for  them. 
The  turtle-flesh  was  always  sent  to  us  as  a  present,  either 


A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

from  the  chief  or  his  head  wife,  and  after  I  had  in- 
structed Koytoo  into  the  mysteries  of  concocting  it  into 
soup,  with  which  neither  he  nor  the  Fijians  were  pre- 
viously acquainted,  the  chief  would  never  fail  to  appear 
at  the  very  moment  the  soup  was  put  on  our  table.  In 
fact  there  were  always  boys  of  his  loitering  about  the 
kitchen,  eagerly  watching  the  moment  that  it  was 
ready,  and  then  running  as  fast  as  they  could  to  inform 
their  chief  of  the  important  event. 

Koytoo  was  an  expert  climber,  and  thought  nothing 
of  ascending  a  tree  to  collect  some  specimens  of  flower 
or  fruit  for  me.  We  often  made  excursions  together, 
and  I  have  frequently  admired  the  way  in  which  he 
would  walk  up  the  smooth  trunk  of  a  tall  cocoa-nut 
palm,  in  order  to  knock  down  a  few  fruits  for  refreshing 
ourselves.  Without  closely  embracing  the  tree,  as  we 
are  wont  to  do  in  climbing,  he  actually  walked  up,  his 
feet  and  hands  just  touching  the  trunk,  and  his  body 
being  far  off.  He  was  scarcely  seated  on  the  leaves 
forming  the  feathery  crown  of  the  palm,  when  down 
came  a  number  of  nuts,  all  of  which  he  had  carefully 
tapped  with  his  fingers  to  ascertain  by  the  sound 
whether  they  had  arrived  at  that  stage  of  maturity 
which  I  preferred  for  drinking ;  for  there  is  a  great 
difference  in  the  taste  of  the  cocoa-nut  as  it  advances 
towards  maturity,  and  for  every  one  of  these  stages 
the  natives  have  a  distinct  term.  What  is  yet  still 
more  remarkable,  they  at  once  know  the  stage  by 
merely  tapping  at  the  nut  with  their  fingers.  As  the 
transition  from  one  stage  to  another,  from  insipid  to 
sweet,  and  very  slightly  acid,  is  brought  about  in  a  day 


KOROVONO    AND    ITS   FORESTS.  39 

or  so,  it  requires  a  well-trained  ear  to  detect  the  diffe- 
rence, and,  though  trying  very  hard,  I  never  could  mas- 
ter it.  No  sooner  were  the  nuts  down  than  Koytoo  stood 
again  on  terra  firma,  cutting  a  stick  about  three  feet 
long  and  one  inch  thick,  which  he  placed  obliquely  in 
the  ground,  and  used  for  shelling  the  nuts.  Thus  di- 
vested of  their  thick  outer  fibrous  covering,  the  hard 
shell  of  one  nut  was  used  as  a  hammer  for  knocking  a 
hole  in  the  other,  and  so  nicely  was  this  done,  that  the 
hole  was  hardly  larger  than  a  shilling,  and  scarcely  a 
drop  of  the  milk  was  spilt.  We  used  to  empty  a  great 
number  of  nuts  in  this  state  without  ever  experiencing 
any  bad  effects.  We  who  wear  clothes  ought  to  have 
a  steady  hand,  for  should  any  of  the  milk  be  spilt,  it 
will,  on  running  over  the  few  remaining  fibres  of  the 
husk,  become  astringent,  and  produce  an  indelible  stain 
in  linen  and  cotton,  having  exactly  the  appearance  of 
iron-mould. 

On  the  4th  of  June,  I  paid  a  visit  to  Korovono,  on 
Vanua  Levu,  Mrs.  Waterhouse  obligingly  lending  me 
the  mission  boat  and  crew  to  take  me  across  the  Straits 
of  Somosomo.  My  object  was  to  examine  the  Kowrie 
pines  and  wild  nutmegs  of  that  place.  We  left  Somo- 
somo early  in  the  morning,  and  reached  our  destination 
at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  Jetro,  an  old  Manila 
man,  who  had  come  to  Fiji  years  ago,  and  spoke  Spanish 
with  some  difficulty,  met  us  on  the  beach,  and  conducted 
us  to  a  fine  grove  of  Kowrie  pines  (Dammara  Vitiensis, 
Seem.)  shortly  to  fall  a  prey  to  the  axe.  European 
sawyers  had  already  cut  down  a  number  of  the  best 
trees,  yet  some  good  specimens  were  still  standing,  and 


40  A  MISSION  TO  vnr. 

I  took  exact  measurements  of  them.  They  were  from 
eighty  to  a  hundred  feet  high,  and,  four  feet  above  the 
base ;  the  largest  was  eighteen  feet  in  circumference ! 
The  Fijian  Kowrie,  or  Dakua,  as  the  natives  term  it, 
does  not  form  entire  forests  by  itself,  like  some  of  our 
pines,  but  grows  intermingled  with  other  trees,  in  Koro- 
vono  with  myrtles  and  wild  nutmegs.  These  nutmegs 
are  also  stately  trees,  with  fine  oblong  leaves ;  and  their 
produce,  though  it  will  never  be  able  to  enter  into  com- 
petition with  the  cultivated  nutmeg  of  the  East  Indies, 
is  sufficiently  aromatic  to  be  employed  for  home 
consumption.  One  of  the  men  climbed  up  the  highest 
Kowrie  pines  by  means  of  a  creeper,  that  hung  like  a 
rope  from  the  uppermost  branches,  and  he  threw  down 
a  good  supply  of  fruit,  and  also  a  snake  five  feet  long, 
which  had  taken  up  its  abode  there. 

On  returning  to  the  beach  we  kindled  a  fire  to  make 
a  cup  of  tea,  and  the  natives  brought  us  plenty  of 
cocoa-nuts  and  bananas.  Our  camp  was  pitched  under 
a  couple  of  magnificent  Dilo  trees  (Calophyllum  ino- 
phyllum^  Linn.)  the  thick,  glossy,  green  foliage  of  which 
was  set  off  to  advantage  by  the  numerous  white  blos- 
soms with  which  the  tree  was  crowded.  The  branches, 
densely  covered  with  ferns  and  orchids,  were  quite  over- 
hanging the  water;  indeed  all  the  beaches  of  the 
Strait  of  Somosomo  are  characterized  by  this  pecu- 
liarity. The  vegetation,  instead  of  receding  from  the 
sea,  as  in  most  parts  of  the  group,  is  quite  bent  over 
the  briny  fluid.  We  had  intended  to  stop  for  the  night 
at  Korovono,  but  at  dusk  the  mosquitoes  began  to  be 
very  troublesome,  and,  as  we  had  omitted  to  bring  cur- 


DIFFICULTIES    OF   ASCERTAINING   THE   TRUTH.  41 

tains  for  our  protection,  sleep  would  have  been  out 
of  the  question.  A  council  of  war  being  held,  it  was 
thought  preferable,  notwithstanding  the  wind  being 
dead  against  us,  to  beat  out  of  the  bay  and  pull  the 
rest  of  the  way.  Leaving  without  further  delay,  we 
passed,  about  midnight,  Kioa,  or  Owen  Island,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  from  having  become  the  property  of 
Mr.  Owen,  an  enterprising  Australian  gentleman,  who 
endeavoured  to  form  a  settlement  on  it.  Mr.  Owen 
was  for  some  time  a  member  of  the  Victorian  Legisla- 
ture, at  Melbourne,  where  he  was  often  alluded  to  as 
"  Member  for  Fiji."  Though  taking  advantage  of  every 
slight  breeze,  we  had  to  be  at  sea  all  night  and  did  not 
reach  Somosomo  until  six  o'clock  the  next  morning, 
and  were  heartily  glad  when  Koytoo,  the  Rotuma  cook, 
brought  the  breakfast,  as  usual  consisting  of  yams,  pork, 
and  coffee. 

On  the  5th  of  June,  a  small  island  schooner  came  in 
belonging  to  a  half-caste,  and  manned  by  a  crew  of  the 
same  mixed  origin.  They  brought  all  the  news  of  the 
group,  and  complained  bitterly  of  the  missionaries  in- 
juring their  trade  by  inducing  the  natives  to  contribute 
cocoa-nut  oil  towards  the  support  of  the  Wesleyan  So- 
ciety, an  article  which  formerly  passed  direct  into  the 
hands  of  the  small  traders.  When  a  native  became 
Christian,  he  was  made  to  give  every  three  months  eight 
gallons  of  oil,  or  thirty-two  a  year,  equal  to  £4  sterling. 
Notice  was  given  a  few  days  before  the  oil  was  due ; 
and  when  a  trader  visited  a  place  he  found  none  but 
empty  casks, — the  church  had  swallowed  it  all  up. 
This  statement,  like  many  others  heard  in  the  islands, 


42  A   MISSION  TO    VITI. 

I  found  only  partially  true ;  indeed,  I  have  never  been 
in  a  country  where  it  is  more  difficult  to  arrive  at  real 
facts  than  Fiji.  To  say  nothing  about  those  who  make 
it  a  point  to  diffuse  absolute  untruths,  nearly  everybody 
seems  to  rejoice  in  overstating  a  case  or  giving  a  most 
partial  version  of  it ;  and  it  requires  no  slight  discrimi- 
nation to  keep  on  good  terms  with  those  with  whom 
one  wishes  to  stand  well,  so  fearfully  rampant  is  the 
gossip.  The  most  outrageous  stories  were  unblushingly 
circulated  about  the  different  consuls  and  missionaries ; 
and  sometimes  I  felt  hot  and  cold,  while  having  to  be 
an  unwilling  listener  to  scandal  of  this  description. 
People  in  civilized  countries  do  not  know  how  much  they 
owe  to  the  laws  that  protect  them,  at  least  against  the 
grossest  libels.  Talk  of  village  scandal,  it  is  nothing  to 
it.  Of  course,  in  a  society  of  whites  so  limited,  this 
state  of  affairs  might  be  expected,  but  a  new  feature  in 
the  history  of  gossip  is  that  all  the  tittle-tattle  of  the 
other  groups  of  the  Pacific  was  dealt  out  as  so  many 
delicious  morsels  in  Fiji.  The  doings  of  known  per- 
sonages in  Tahiti,  Samoa,  and  Tonga  were  discussed 
with  avidity.  Fancy,  we  in  Europe  troubling  ourselves 
with  the  small  talk  of  places  more  than  a  thousand 
miles  distant. 

Before  the  arrival  of  the  British  consul,  several  of 
these  small  island  schooners  carried  on  a  profitable  traf- 
fic in  human  beings.  They  used  to  go  to  the  large 
islands,  and  purchase  young  women,  for  whom  from  five 
to  ten  dollars  in  barter  were  usually  given.  These  women 
were  sold  again  to  whites  in  other  parts  of  the  group, 
often  for  fifty  dollars  each.  Several  women  were  pointed 


WAIRIKI.  43 

out  to  me  as  having  been  bought  in  this  way  to  be- 
come housekeepers  of  European  settlers,  and,  as  their 
new  lords  and  masters  clothed,  fed,  and  treated  them 
better  than  their  Fijian,  they  had  cheerfully  stayed  with 
them.  Mr.  Pritchard's  presence  has  in  a  great  measure 
put  a  stop  to  these  and  to  several  other  iniquities,  or  at 
all  events  prevented  their  being  carried  on  in  open  day- 
light; but  until  the  home  government  shall  think  fit 
to  lighten  the  consul's  duties,  by  placing  a  fast-sailing 
schooner  at  his  disposal,  and  allow  him  some  abler  as- 
sistance than  he  has  hitherto  obtained  from  his  clerks, 
similar  shortcomings  must  be  expected. 

On  the  12th  of  June  I  went  for  a  few  days  to  Wairiki. 
The  premises  occupied  by  the  mission  of  that  place  are 
very  commodious ;  there  are  two  large  dwelling-houses, 
built  about  two  hundred  yards  apart,  one  occupied  by  Mr. 
Waterhouse,  the  other  by  Mr.  Carey.  On  the  second 
day  of  my  stay  there,  those  two  gentlemen  returned 
from  Bau,  bringing  a  message  from  Mr.  Pritchard,  the 
British  consul,  to  the  effect  that  Colonel  S  my  the  had 
as  yet  not  arrived,  and  that  a  little  schooner  should  be 
sent  for  me,  in  case  I  did  not  reach  Ovalau  by  the  12th 
instant.  Mr.  Carey  showed  me  his  collection  of  native 
curiosities,  including  a  fine  set  of  clubs,  spears,  bows, 
and  arrows.  I  also  saw  here  for  the  first  time  a  fan 
made  of  the  leaf  of  a  beautiful  palm,  a  tree  which  had 
proved  quite  new  to  science,  and  which  in  honour  of 
Mr.  Pritchard,  and  as  a  grateful  acknowledgment  of 
the  invaluable  assistance  he  rendered  to  me,  the  name 
of  PritcJiardia  pacifica  has  been  given  by  Mr.  Wend- 
land  and  myself, — the  specific  name  being  justified  by 


44  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

its  growing  in  various  groups  of  the  Pacific,  and  Mr. 
Pritchard's  untiring  efforts  to  preserve  the  peace  of  that 
region.  Fans  made  of  this  palm  are  used  exclusively 
by  the  chiefs,  and  forbidden  to  be  carried  by  the  com- 
mon people.  Should  Fiji  ever  choose  a  national  em- 
blem, the  claims  of  this  palm  to  be  regarded  as  such, 
should  not  be  overlooked. 

Mrs.  Waterhouse  made  me  a  present  of  an  Orange 
Cowry,  or  Bulikula  as  the  natives  term  it  (Cyprcea 
aurantium,  Martyn),  the  first  I  had  seen  there.  This 
shell  has  hitherto  been  found  exclusively  in  Fiji,  where 
it  is  confined  to  the  islands  and  shores  of  North-west 
Viti  Levu ;  it  is  worn  as  an  ornament  around  the 
neck  by  natives  of  rank.  Not  many  years  ago,  a  couple 
of  these  cowries  would  fetch  as  much  as  £50  in  Eu- 
rope, but  at  present  a  pair  without  the  least  flaw,  and 
of  the  deepest  tint  the  shell  is  known  to  assume,  may  be 
bought  in  London  for  £6.  Hugh  Cuming,  Esq.,  the 
possessor  of  the  largest  conchological  collection  ever 
brought  together,  is  my  authority.  This  statement 
will  doubtless  be  received  with  surprise  by  the  Fijian 
traders,  who  ask  a  much  higher  price  on  the  spot,  and 
still  fancy  great  profits  might  be  realized,  in  the  Euro- 
pean markets.  It  should  however  be  remembered,  that 
though  the  Orange  Cowry  is  extremely  local  in  its  geo- 
graphical range,  and  will  consequently  always  be  a  rare 
shell,  specimens  have  found  their  way  to  every  public 
museum  and  every  private  cabinet  of  importance  long 
ere  this,  and  the  principal  demand  having  thus  been 
met,  the  price  has  necessarily  declined. 

The  road  from  Wairiki  to  Somosomo  leads  for  seve- 


A   KITE. THE    'PAUL   JONES.'  45 

ral  miles  along  a  fine  sandy  beach,  underneath  a  bower 
of  stately  trees,  and  then  branches  off  inland.  I  passed 
magnificent  groves  of  Tahitian  chestnuts  (Inocarpus 
edulis,  Forst),  growing  on  the  banks  of  rivulets  and 
diffusing  a  delightful  shade  and  coolness,  whilst  their 
grooved  trunk  and  knobby  root,  always  rising  above  the 
ground,  are  conspicuous  objects.  Although  it  was  now 
the  dry  season,  nevertheless  I  was  completely  drenched 
by  several  showers.  Indeed  there  were  few  fine  days 
during  the  whole  time  I  was  staying  in  Taviuni,  and  I 
may  as  well  add  that  1860  was  as  unusually  wet  in 
Fiji  as  that  year  proved  in  Europe  and  other  countries. 
The  land  between  Wairiki  and  Somosomo  does  not 
appear  to  be  very  rich,  the  soil  being  rather  stony ;  the 
extreme  luxuriance  of  the  vegetation  must  therefore 
principally  be  ascribed  to  the  great  quantity  of  rain 
that  falls  almost  throughout  the  year. 

One  day,  Messrs.  Storck  and  Coxon  made  a  large  kite, 
to  the  great  amusement  and  entertainment  of  the  Fi- 
jians,  who,  chief  and  all,  turned  out  to  see  it.  They 
called  it  a  "  manumanu  "  (bird),  and  had  never  beheld 
such  a  thing  before ;  our  Rotuma  men,  however,  said 
they  knew  it,  and  in  their  island  often  made  it  of 
Ivi  (Inocarpus)  leaves.  Great  was  the  joy  when  the 
"postilions"  reached  their  destination,  and,  as  there  was 
a  fine  breeze,  the  trick  was  always  successful.  So  much 
were  they  gratified  that  they  came  for  several  days  in 
succession  to  beg  that  the  kite  might  be  brought  out, 
till  at  last  the  toy  got  such  a  bore  that  the  makers  were 
obliged  to  destroy  it. 

In  accordance  with  my  request,  Mr.  Consul  Pritchard 


46  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

sent,  on  the  19th  of  June,  the  'Paul  Jones,'  a  schooner 
of  nine  tons, — huilt  in  the  islands  by  Mr.  Jones,  an  Eng- 
lishman formerly  residing  at  Levuka, — and  entirely  of 
native  woods,  Dilo  (Calophyllum  inophyllum,  Linn.)  and 
Vaivai  (Serianthes  Vitiensis,  A.  Gray),  with  masts  of  Fi- 
jian Kowrie-pine.    The  crew  were  all  half-castes,  mostly 
sons  of  Englishmen  who  had  taken  up  their  residence 
in  Fiji.     They  could  speak  English  more   or  less  flu- 
ently,   having   had   some    instruction    at   the  different 
missionary  schools.      The  late  Mr.  Hunt,   one  of  the 
most  distinguished  champions  of  Christianity  in  these 
parts,  seemed  to    have  taken  considerable  interest  in 
their  education,  and  they  always  spoke  in  the  highest 
terms  of  him.     It  was  amusing  to  hear  some  of  their 
English.     In  Fijian,  B,  N,  and  G,  are  combinations  of 
two  distinct   consonants,   sounding   like  Mb,   Nd,   and 
Ng.    Joe,  our  cook,  a  very  good-natured  fellow,  had  the 
greatest  difficulty  in  steering  clear  of  these  letters.     In 
spite  of  all  our  pains,  he  would  insist  in  telling  us  that 
the  "  yams  were  quite  ndone,"  and  that  "mbreaJcfast  was 
ready." 

The  captain  of  the  '  Paul  Jones '  brought  a  letter 
from  the  consul  informing  me  that  Colonel  Smythe  had 
not  yet  arrived,  and  advising  me  to  hasten  my  depar- 
ture from  Somosomo  if  I  wished  to  take  advantage  of  an 
excursion  he  had  arranged  to  the  dominions  of  Kuru- 
duadua,  a  powerful  heathen  chief,  hitherto  inaccessible 
to  all  missionary  influence,  and  residing  on  the  large 
island  of  Viti  Levu.  My  mind  was  at  once  made  up.  In 
a  few  hours,  all  my  baggage  was  packed,  and  embarked. 

During  my  stay  at  Somosomo,  many  of  my  things  had 


FIJIAN    HONESTY.  47 

been  left  in  an  open  shed,  and  in  boxes  that  could  not 
be  locked  every  time  they  had  to  be  opened ;  yet  I  did 
not  lose  a  single  article,  though  the  hatchets,  knives, 
and  cotton  prints  must  have  been  invaluable  in  the  eyes 
of  the  natives.  On  the  whole,  the  Fijians  confirm  Cap- 
tain Cook's  opinion,  according  to  which  the  light- 
coloured  Polynesians  have  thievish  propensities,  the 
dark-coloured  not.  The  Tannese,  a  dark-coloured  race, 
he  must  either  have  looked  upon  as  an  exception  to  his 
rule,  or  else  they  must  not  have  been  in  those  days  the 
set  of  expert  thieves  they  are  at  present. 

The  extreme  fertility  of  the  soil  about  Somosomo  in- 
duced me  to  establish  there  an  experimental  cotton  plan- 
tation ;  and  before  fairly  embarking  on  board  the  '  Paul 
Jones '  for  Ovalau,  I  must  insert  a  short  chapter  on 
cotton,  which  those  who  think  it  a  subject  no  amount 
of  literary  skill  can  make  attractive,  may  skip  without 
losing  the  thread  of  the  general  narrative. 


48 


CHAPTEE  III. 

FIJI  AS   A  COTTON-GROWING  COUNTBY. — COTTON   NOT   INDIGENOUS   BUT   NA- 

TUEALIZED. — NATIVE  NAMES. NUMBER  OF  SPECIES. AVERAGE   PRODUCE 

OF    THE    WILD  COTTON. EXCELLENCE  OF  FIJIAN  COTTON   ACKNOWLEDGED 

AT    MANCHESTER. EFFORTS    OF     BRITISH    CONSUL    AND    MISSIONARIES    TO 

EXTEND   ITS    CULTIVATION. — THE    FIRST    THOUSAND    POUNDS     OF    COTTON 

SENT  HOME. ESTABLISHMENT    OF   A  PLANTATION    AT  SOMOSOMO,  WAKAYA 

AND  NUKUMOTO. — PROSPECTS    OF   COTTON-GROWING   IN   FIJI. 

COTTON  was  one  of  the  subjects  to  which  attention  was 
principally  directed  by  my  instructions ;  and  I  have  en- 
deavoured to  collect  every  information  which  might 
prove  useful  in  forming  a  correct  estimate  of  the  Fijis 
as  a  cotton-growing  country.  If  I  understand  the  na- 
ture and  requirements  of  cotton  aright,  the  Fijis  seem 
to  be  as  if  made  for  it.  In  the  whole  group  there  is 
scarcely  a  rod  of  ground  that  might  not  be  cultivated,  or 
has  not  at  one  time  or  other  produced  a  crop  of  some 
kind,  the  soil  being  of  an  average  amount  of  fertility, 
and  in  some  parts  rich  in  the  extreme.  Cotton  re- 
quires a  gently  undulated  surface,  slopes  of  hills  rather 
than  flat  land.  The  whole  country,  the  deltas  of  the 
great  rivers  excepted,  is  a  succession  of  hills  and  dales, 
covered  on  the  weather-side  with  a  luxuriant  herbage 
or  dense  forest ;  on  the  lee-side  with  grass  and  isolated 
screw-pines,  more  immediately  available  for  planting. 


A   FIRST-KATE    COTTON-GROWING    COUNTRY.  49 

Cotton  wants  sea-air.  What  country  would  answer  this 
requirement  better  than  a  group  of  more  than  two  hun- 
dred islands  surrounded  by  the  ocean  as  a  convenient 
highway  to  even  small  boats  and  canoes,  since  the  un- 
checked force  of  the  winds  and  waves  is  broken  by 
the  natural  breakwater  presented  by  the  reefs  which 
nearly  encircle  the  whole?  Cotton  requires,  further, 
to  be  fanned  by  gentle  breezes  when  growing,  and  a 
comparatively  low  temperature ;  there  is  scarcely  ever  a 
calm,  either  the  north-east  or  the  south-east  trade- wind 
blowing  over  the  islands  keeps  up  a  constant  current, 
and  the  thermometer  for  months  vacillates  between  62° 
and  80°  JFahrenheit,  and  never  rises  to  the  height  at- 
tained in  some  parts  of  tropical  Asia,  Africa,  or  Ame- 
rica. In  fine,  every  condition  required  to  favour  the 
growth  of  this  important  production  seems  to  be  pro- 
vided, and  it  is  hardly  possible  to  add  anything  more  in 
order  to  impress  those  best  qualified  to  judge  with  a  bet- 
ter idea  of  Fiji  as  a  first-rate  cotton-growing  country. 

Cotton  is  not  indigenous  in  any  part  of  the  group. 
Independent  of  its  introduction  being  alluded  to  in  va- 
rious works  as  having  taken  place  in  the  early  part  of 
this  century,  there  is  no  proper  vernacular  name  for  it. 
In  all  such  cases,  the  Fijian  language  borrows  that  of 
an  indigenous  plant  resembling  the  introduced  one  as 
closely  as  possible ;  thus  the  Cassava  root  received  the 
name  of  "  Yabia  ni  papalagi  "  (i.  e.  foreign  arrowroot), 
the  bird's-eye  pepper  that  of  "Boro  ni  papalagi"  (i.e. 
foreign  nightshade),  and  the  pine-apple  that  of  "  Ba- 
lawa  ni  papalagi"  (i.e.  foreign  screw-pine).  By  the 
same  rule,  cotton  became  known  as  "Vauvau  ni  papalagi" 

E 


50  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

(i.  e.  foreign  Vauvau),  from  its  close  resemblance  to  the 
Bele,  or  Vauvau  (Hibiscus  [Abelmoschus~]  Manihot,  Linn.), 
a  cultivated  species,  the  leaves  of  which  are  eaten  as  a 
potherb.  It  is  true  that  when  foreigners  speak  about 
"Vauvau"  the  natives  of  the  coast  know  cotton  is  meant, 
but  in  districts  where  cotton  has  not  yet  penetrated,  as 
for  instance  at  Namosi,  Viti  Levu,  one  is  sure  to  get  the 
edible  Hibiscus,  if  Vauvau,  without  adding  "ni  papalagi" 
(foreign),  be  asked  for.* 

Yet,  notwithstanding  cotton  being  undoubtedly  an 
introduced  plant,  and  although  until  lately  no  attention 
whatever  was  paid  to  its  cultivation,  it  has  spread  over 
all  the  littoral  parts  of  Fiji,  and  become  in  some  locali- 
ties perfectly  naturalized.  Six  different  kinds  have  come 
to  my  knowledge,  all  of  which  are  shrubby,  and  pro- 
duce flower  and  fruit  throughout  the  whole  year,  though 
the  greater  number  of  pods  arrive  at  maturity  during 
the  dry  season,  from  June  to  September.  There  are 
two  kinds  of  kidney-cotton,  one  ( Gossypium  Peruvianum, 
Cav.)  having  naked,  the  other  (Gossypium  sp.  nov.?) 
mossy  seeds.  A  third  kind  ( Gossypium  Barbadense,  Linn. ) 
has  disconnected  naked  seeds  ;  a  fourth  ( Gossypium  ar- 
boreum,  Linn.)  has  disconnected  seeds  covered  with  a 
greenish  moss  and  long  staple ;  a  fifth  is  probably  an 
inferior  variety  of  the  preceding  one,  and  only  differs 
from  it  in  the  length  of  the  staple ;  and  a  sixth  ( Gossy- 
pium religiosum,  Linn.),  being  the  Nankin  cotton,  valua- 
ble only  in  certain  foreign  markets.  The  four  first-men- 

*  In  Tahiti  Gossypium  Barbadense  is  known  as  "  Vavau,"  a  name  evi- 
dently identical  with  the  Fijian  "  Vauvau."  Nankin  cotton  (G.  religiosum) 
was  found  wild  in  Tahiti  by  Forster. 


YIELD    OF   WILD    COTTON.  51 

tioned  kinds,  especially  Gossypium  Perumanum  and  Gos- 
sypium  arloreum,  are  the  most  frequent  in  the  group ; 
the  fifth  seems  confined  to  Laselase,  some  miles  from 
Namosi ;  and  the  sixth  (Nankin)  has  been  met  with  on 
Kadavu  by  Mr.  Pritchard,  and  on  the  Rakiraki  coast 
by  Colonel  Smythe. 

There  is  scarcely  any  difference  in  the  look  of  the 
four  first-mentioned  kinds  which  a  person  not  botani- 
cally  trained  could  readily  detect.  Left  to  themselves, 
and  never  subjected  to  the  pruning  knife,  these  cotton 
shrubs  become  as  high  as  a  tall  man  can  reach,  and  each 
shrub  spreads  over  a  surface  of  about  fourteen  feet 
square.  I  have  had  no  opportunity  of  counting  the 
number  of  pods  produced  throughout  the  year  by  a 
single  specimen,  but  that  found  in  July  was  on  the 
average  seven  hundred  per  plant.  Twenty  pods  of 
cleaned  cotton  weighed  1  oz. ;  thus  each  plant  would 
yield  2  Ibs.  3  oz.  Allowing  fourteen  feet  square  for 
each  plant,  an  acre  would  hold  222  plants,  yielding  at 
the  rate  of  2  Ibs.  3  oz.  per  individual  plant,  485  Ibs. 
10  oz.  Even  fixing  the  price  of  sorts,  worth  more  than 
Is.  at  Manchester,  as  low  as  6d.  per  pound  on  the  spot, 
an  acre  would  realize  £12.  2s.  9f  d.  When  it  is  borne 
in  mind  that  Fijian  cotton  brings  forth  ripe  fruit  with- 
out intermission  throughout  the  year,  but  that  this  cal- 
culation is  based  solely  upon  the  number  of  pods  found 
at  one  time  only,  and  that  the  pods  were  gathered  from 
plants  upon  which  no  attention  whatever  had  been  be- 
stowed, the  result  will  be  still  more  striking;  double, 
even  treble  the  above  quantity  may  safely  be  calculated 
upon  as  their  annual  crop.  When  it  is  further  remem- 

E  2 


52  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

bered  that  Fijian  cotton  is  not  an  annual,  as  it  is  in  the 
United  States,  and  all  other  countries,  when  killed  by 
frost  or  too  low  a  temperature,  and  that  the  plants  will 
continue  to  yield  for  several  years  without  requiring  any 
other  attention  than  keeping  them  free  from  weedy 
creepers  and  pruning  them  periodically,  the  encourage- 
ment held  out  to  cultivators  will  be  pronounced  very 
great. 

Until  the  excellence  of  Fijian  cotton  had  been  ac- 
knowledged at  Manchester,  and  the  mercantile  value  of 
the  different  sorts  been  ascertained  to  be  Id.  to  7^<Z., 
8d.,  9^.,  lie?.,  and  even  I2d.  to  12%d.  per  pound  respec- 
tively, no  attempt  had  been  made  to  cultivate  the  plant. 
It  was  almost  entirely  left  to  itself,  and  perhaps  only 
here  and  there  disseminated  by  the  natives,  in  order  to 
furnish  materials  for  wicks.  But  when  in  November, 
1859,  Mr.  Pritchard  returned  from  England  to  Fiji,  with 
the  valuation  printed  in  the  Manchester  '  Cotton  Supply 
Beporter,'  for  March,  1859,  he  induced  the  most  influen- 
tial chiefs  to  give  orders  for  planting  it ;  and  the  Wes- 
leyan  missionaries,  without  any  exception,  zealously 
aided  in  these  endeavours  by  recommending  the  culti- 
vation, both  personally  and  through  the  agency  of  their 
native  teachers.  Thus,  cotton  has  been  thickly  spread 
over  all  the  Christianized  districts,  and  imparts  to  them 
a  characteristic  feature,  occasionally  very  striking  in 
places  having  a  mixed  religious  population.  In  Navua, 
for  instance,  that  part  of  the  town  inhabited  by  Chris- 
tians is  full  of  cotton,  whilst  that  inhabited  by  the 
heathens  destitute  of  it. 

To  guard  against  misconceptions,  it  must  be  stated  that 


EXTENSION    OF    COTTON    CULTIVATION.  53 

cotton  has  as  yet  been  cultivated  by  the  natives  in  their 
peculiar  style.    Those  who  would  look  in  the  islands  for 
broad  square  acres  covered  with  any  given  produce  will 
be  seriously  disappointed.    The  Fijian  cultivator  has  such 
an  abundance  of  good  land  at  his  command,  and  holds 
such  stringent  notions  about  the  fallows  to  be  observed, 
that  he  selects  patches  here  and  there  only,  which  after 
an  annual  or  biennial  occupation,  are  deserted  for  others 
cleared   for   the   purpose.      When  cotton  was  recom- 
mended to  him,  he  followed  his  old  cherished  system, 
and  the  isolated  patches  now  beheld  are  the   result. 
These  patches  are  of  various  sizes,  but  I  have  not  seen 
any  containing  more  than  fifty  plants.     In  Namara,  and 
other  districts  subject  to  Ban,  isolated  specimens,  often 
as  many  as  twenty,  are  met  with  on  the  margins  of 
every  taro,  banana,  and  yam  plantation.     On  the  island 
occupied  by  Bau,   the   Fijian  capital,  Mr.  Storck,  my 
assistant,  counted  four  hundred  shrubs,  growing  in  the 
streets  and  squares.     The  number  of  plants  thus  dis- 
persed all  over  Fiji  must  be  considerable,  though  no- 
body could  venture  to  give  any  approximate  estimate  of 
them  ;   and  their  aggregate  produce,  if  attentively  col- 
lected, would  doubtless  amount  to  a  quantity  scarcely 
expected  from  such  sources.     Mr.  Pritchard,  in  order 
to  open  the  trade,  pledged  himself,  before  leaving  Eng- 
land, to  his  Manchester  friends,  to  forward  1000  Ibs.  of 
cleaned  cotton  within  twelve  months'  time,  and  he  ex- 
perienced no  difficulty  in  obtaining  from  Kadavu,  Na- 
droga,   and   Bau   an   amount  exceeding  that  promised 
before  the  time  fixed  for  its  dispatch, — the  first  ever 
sent  home.     Now  that  a  demand  has  been  established, 


54  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

there  will  be  a  marked  increase  in  the  crops,  when  the 
numerous  young  plants  added  to  the  old  stock  at  Mr. 
Pritchard's  investigation  begin  to  produce  their  harvest. 

On  leaving  England  in  February,  1860,  the  Man- 
chester Cotton  Supply  Association,  through  their  able 
secretary,  Mr.  Haywood,  furnished  me  with  a  large 
quantity  of  New  Orleans  and  Sea  Island  cotton-seeds, 
together  with  printed  instructions  for  their  cultivation. 
Distributing  a  fair  share  of  the  seeds  and  papers  amongst 
white  settlers,  who,  I  felt  persuaded,  would  make  use 
of  them,  I  myself  was  enabled  to  establish  a  small  cotton 
plantation  on  the  Somosomo  estate  of  Captain  Wilson, 
and  M.  Joubert,  of  Sydney,  in  the  island  of  Taviuni. 
None  of  the  seeds  of  the  Sea  Island  sort  possessed  any 
germinating  power  ;  but  those  of  the  New  Orleans  cot- 
ton were  very  good,  and  readily  grew.  Sown  on  the 
9th  of  June,,  they  began  to  yield  ripe  pods  within  three 
months,  and  I  was  thus  enabled  to  take  home  a  crop 
from  the  very  seed  I  brought  out,  though  my  absence 
from  England  only  amounted  to  thirteen  months  alto- 
gether. This  may  truly  be  termed  growing  cotton  by 
steam.  When  I  paid  a  second  visit  to  Somosomo,  on 
the  18th  of  October,  my  plants  were  from  four  to  seven 
feet  high,  full  of  ripe  pods  and  flowers,  which  in  the 
morning  were  of  a  pale  yellow,  but  towards  evening 
turned  pink.  Koytoo,  the  Rotuma  native,  whom  I  had 
desired  to  look  after  the  plantation,  said  that  the  field 
only  required  weeding  once;  after  that  the  cotton-plants 
grew  so  rapidly  that  they  kept  down  the  weeds,  and  he 
had  no  further  trouble. 

Simultaneously,  Dr.  Brower,  United  States  Vice-Con- 


SUCCESS  OF  AN  EXPERIMENTAL  PLANTATION.     55 

sul,  had  succeeded  in  raising  New  Orleans  cotton  on  his 
estate,  in  the  island  of  Wakaya,  twelve  pods  of  which 
weighed  an  ounce ;  whilst  the  seeds  distributed  by  me 
amongst  various  people  had  evidently  not  fallen  on 
barren  soil.  Of  course,  my  plantation  could  only  be  a 
small  one,  but  nevertheless  it  proved  so  far  beneficial 
that  it  convinced  those  white  settlers  who  had  lately 
repaired  to  the  group  what  quick  returns  cotton  would 
yield,  and  some  of  them  resolutely  set  about  establish- 
ing plantations.  The  mail  brought  the  news  that  some 
of  them  had  as  many  as  fifteen  acres  planted.  Mr. 
Storck,  my  assistant,  who  went  from  Sydney  with  me 
to  Fijis,  made  up  his  mind  to  remain  behind  when  I 
came  away,  in  order  to  devote  his  energies  to  cotton- 
growing.  Mr.  Pritchard  supplying  him  with  land,  he 
commenced  a  plantation  at  Nukumoto,  on  the  island 
of  Viti  Leva;  and  if  the  experiment  should  prove  re- 
munerative, more  land  will  speedily  be  brought  under 
cultivation. 

The  fact  that  cotton  will  grow,  and  will  grow  well> 
being  established,  the  success  of  this  and  similar  attempts 
will  chiefly  depend  upon  the  supply  of  manual  labour. 
Those  best  acquainted  with  the  condition  of  the  group, 
and  the  character  of  its  people,  confidently  look  forward 
to  a  steady  supply  of  it.  In  Rewa,  Ovalau,  and  other  dis- 
tricts longest  frequented  by  whites,  the  natives  go  round 
asking  for  employment.  This  is  quite  an  innovation, 
and  shows  that  the  Fijian  is  becoming  gradually  accus- 
tomed to  labour  for  fixed  wages  ;  and,  when  the  chiefs 
shall  have  either  voluntarily  relinquished  or  been  com- 
pelled  to  give  up  their  claim  to  all  the  property  ac- 


56  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

cumulated  by  the  lower  classes,  a  favourable  result  will 
be  the  immediate  consequence,  and  a  fresh  impulse  be 
imparted  to  all  branches  of  industry.  Let  the  common 
people  once  be  assured  that  nobody  can  legally  take 
their  fair  earnings  away  from  them,  and  that  the  little 
comforts  with  which  they  have  managed  to  surround 
themselves  may  be  openly  displayed  without  the  dan- 
ger of  being  coveted  by  the  chiefs  and  their  favourites, 
and  they  will  doubtless  be  eager  to  engage  in  any  work 
that  does  not  require  any  great  mechanical  skill  or 
violent  exertion,  and  at  the  same  time  will  yield  them 
reasonable  returns.* 

*  Whilst  these  sheets  were  passing  through  the  press,  the  Fijian  contri- 
bution to  the  Great  Exhibition  of  1862  has  arrived,  which  Mr.  Consul 
Pritchard,  in  a  letter  to  me,  dated  Levuka,  Fiji,  March  12th,  1862,  accom- 
panies with  explanations,  of  which  the  following  have  an  important  bearing 
upon  the  cotton  question : — "  The  box  No.  1  contains  eight  samples  of 
cotton.  Of  these  samples,  No.  1  is  New  Orleans  cotton,  from  the  planta- 
tion you  established  at  Somosomo,  which  since  your  departure  has  been 
sadly  neglected;  the  trees  are  half  withered  and  overgrown  with  bush, 
and  I  fear  the  quality  has  much  deteriorated.  No.  2  is  kidney  cotton, 
grown  by  Mr.  Storck  on  his  plantation  at  Nukumoto  (Eewa  Eiver).  It 
was  planted  in  July  and  gathered  in  December  last.  No.  3  is  kidney  cot- 
ton, native-grown  at  Eewa.  No.  4  is  native-grown,  from  Burebasaga  (Eewa 
Eiver).  No.  5  is  Sea  Island  cotton,  grown  on  Nukulau,  the  little  island 
in  the  Eewa  roads,  and  planted  by  an  Englishman,  Mr.  Smytherman,  in 
January,  and  collected  in  August,  1861."  I  should  here  add,  that  Mr. 
M'Clintock,  nephew  of  Sir  Leopold  M'Clintock,  sowed  some  Sea  Island 
cotton  at  Eewa  ;  in  twenty-four  hours  it  was  up,  with  the  first  two  leaves 
quite  open ;  in  two  months  and  twelve  days  it  was  in  full  blossom,  and 
is  now  almost  ready  to  gather,  not  having  been  planted  three  months ! 
"  No.  7  is  from  Mr.  Eggerstrom's  plantation  at  Nagara,  and  was  gathered 
four  months  after  planting.  No.  8  is  native-grown." 

Sea  Island  cotton  delights  in  sandy  soil  impregnated  with  saline  par- 
ticles, and  localities  wafted  by  sea-breezes,  such  as  Eewa  and  Nukulau  are. 
With  the  high  prices  now  commanded  by  this  kind,  and  the  prospect  of 
continuance  of  civil  wars  in  the  United  States,  speculators  would  find  it 
highly  remunerative  to  hire  or  purchase  land  about  Eewa,  or  localities  simi- 
larly situated,  for  the  cultivation  of  Sea  Island  cotton. 


EXCELLENCE    OF   FIJIAN    COTTON.  57 

It  is  well  known,  both  from  public  journals  and  the 
'Correspondence  relating  to  the  Fiji  Islands,'  presented  by 
command  of  her  Majesty  to  both  Houses  of  Parliament, 
May,  1862,  that  from  samples  submitted  by  Mr.  Pritch- 
ard,  the  Executive  Committee  of  the  Manchester  Cotton 
Supply  Association  resolved,  "  That  these  samples  are  of 
qualities  most  desirable  for  British  manufacture;  that 
such  a  range  of  excellent  cotton  is  scarcely  now  received 
from  any  cotton-growing  country ;  and  that  the  supply 
obtained  from  the  United  States  does  not  realize  nearly 
so  high  an  average  value  as  this  Fijian  cotton."  It 
must  be  borne  in  mind,  that  these  and  similar  opinions 
were  arrived  at  in  1859,  long  before  my  visit  to  the  is- 
lands and  the  publication  of  the  favourable  report  I 
made.*  Doubtless  the  same  Committee  would  now  be 
prepared  to  pronounce  a  still  higher  opinion,  if  that  were 
possible.  The  Fijian  samples  sent  to  the  Great  Exhibi- 
tion of  1862  would  furnish  capital  material  for  renewed 
examination,  and  amongst  them  would  be  found  some 
of  Sea  Island  cotton,  the  sort  which,  having  the  largest 
staple  and  fetching  the  highest  price,  was  hitherto  ex- 
clusively grown  in  perfection  on  the  coast  of  South 
Carolina,  Georgia,  and  a  small  part  of  Florida.  Fiji 
has  now  supplied  every  sort  of  cotton,  from  the  cheapest 
to  the  very  best,  and  capitalists  would  do  well  in  direct- 
ing their  attention  to  it. 

*  My  report  was  sent  by  the  Colonial  Office  to  Manchester,  and  first 
published  in  No.  71  of  the  '  Cotton  Supply  Eeporter,'  of  August  1st,  1861. 


58 


CHAPTEE  IV. 

DEPAETUEE  FEOM  SOMOSOMO. — ISLAND  OF  WAKAYA. — THE  BALOLO. — ARRI- 
VAL   AT    LEVUKA. H.B.M.    CONSUL. THE     LATE     MR.     WILLIAMS. LADO 

AND   ITS    ORIGIN. — SITE    FOE   THE    NEW  CAPITAL. — THE    KING  OF  FIJI. — 
BAU. CAUSES    OF    ITS    SUPEEMACY. VIWA. 

THE  'Paul  Jones'  had  been  seven  days  on  her  voyage 
from  Port  Kinnaird  to  Somosomo,  having  had  to  beat  up, 
but  in  going  back  she  had  a  fair  though  not  a  very 
strong  wind.  We  left  Somosomo  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
20th  of  June,  and  called  at  Wairiki  to  wish  good-bye  to 
the  missionaries,  and  return  them  several  articles  they 
had  kindly  lent  us.  The  first  night  we  anchored  in  a 
small  bay  on  the  southern  coast  of  Vanua  Levu,  and 
went  on  shore  the  next  morning  to  botanize.  The  town, 
built  near  a  great  swamp,  consists  of  about  forty  houses. 
We  had  scarcely  shown  our  white  faces  in  the  first 
house  when  all  the  little  children  set  up  a  perfect 
scream,  and  nothing  their  parents  said  or  did  could  pa- 
cify them.  If  they  had  seen  the  "  old  gentleman  "  him- 
self in  proprid  persona,  they  could  not  have  been  more 
frightened.  The  piercing  screams  brought  children  of 
all  the  other  houses  out,  till  the  whole  formed  one 
great  yelling  chorus,  so  terribly  grating  on  our  ears  that 
we  made  all  possible  haste  to  escape  into  the  woods.  Our 


WAKAYA.  59 

excursion  produced  several  plants  not  previously  noticed, 
and  also  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  an  entirely  new 
genus  of  Ehamnacece,  which  I  have  called,  in  honour  of 
Colonel  Smythe,  R.A.,  Smythea  pacifica.* 

Steering  in  a  south-westerly  direction,  we  sighted  the 
island  of  Koro,  or  Goro  as  some  charts  erroneously  term 
it,  where  an  immense  number  of  yams  are  grown,  and 
the  souls  of  all  the  pigs  killed  in  the  group  are  supposed 
to  go.  A  little  further  on  we  passed  Wakaya,  a  small 
island  belonging  to  Dr.  Brower,  and  the  site  of  a  settle- 
ment chiefly  composed  of  half-castes,  who,  besides  at- 
tending to  the  sheep  and  cattle,  look  after  the  planta- 
tions of  sugar,  coffee,  and  cotton  the  enterprising  Doc- 
tor has  established.  The  most  remarkable  fact  con- 
nected with  Wakaya  is  its  being  one  of  the  places 
where  the  Balolo,  a  curious  annelidan,  makes  its  periodi- 
cal appearance.  Of  the  very  existence  of  this  singular 
animal  naturalists  knew  nothing,  until  a  few  years  ago 
Dr.  Gray,  of  the  British  Museum,  described  it  under 
the  name  of  Palolo  viridis,  adopting  its  Samoan  and 
Tonguese  vernacular  name  for  the  genus ;  and  Dr.  Mac- 
donald  wrote  on  its  anatomy.  The  time  when  the  Ba- 
lolo  comes  in  may  be  termed  the  Fijian  whitebait 
season.  It  is  watched  for  with  the  greatest  anxiety, 
and  predicted  with  unerring  certainty  from  the  phases 
of  the  moon.  The  first  of  these  worm-like  creatures 
floating  on  the  surface  of  the  ocean  are  seen  in  October, 

*  A  coloured  plate  and  a  full  description  of  this  singular  genus,  closely 
allied  to  Ventilago,  with  which  it  agrees  in  habit  to  a  remarkable  degree, 
but  differing  by  having  a  veritable  dehiscent  capsule,  instead  of  a  drupe, 
has  been  published  in  '  Bonplandia,'  vol.  x.  p.  69,  tab.  9.  Additional  par- 
ticulars will  be  found  in  my  '  Flora  Yitiensis.' 


60  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

hence  termed  Vula  i  Balolo  lailai,  i.  e.  the  little  Balolo 
month.  Myriads  appear  about  the  latter  end  of  No- 
vember, generally  on  the  25th,  which  from  that  fact  is 
known  as  the  Vula  i  Balolo  levu,  or  great  Balolo  month ; 
and  the  natives  of  the  coast  are  particularly  busy  in 
catching  and  forwarding  the  delicacy  of  the  season  to 
friends  residing  in  places  deprived  of  it, — presents  all 
the  more  appreciated  as  a  whole  year  must  elapse  be- 
fore the  same  boon  can  again  be  conferred. 

In  a  letter  dated  Levuka,  Fiji,  December  6th,  1861, 
and  addressed  to  her  friends,  an  English  lady  gives  the 
following  account : — "  In  November  we  all  went  for  a 
few  days  to  Wakaya,  about  ten  miles  east-north-east 
from  Ovalau,  in  order  to  see  the  Balolos,  which  rise  out 
of  the  reefs  just  before  daylight,  first  in  small  numbers, 
but  about  sunrise  in  such  masses  that  the  sea  looks 
more  solid  than  liquid.  As  they  were  to  appear  on  the 
morning  of  the  25th,  we  retired  to  rest  at  an  early  hour 
the  night  before,  and  rose  with  the  moon,  about  one 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  An  hour's  pull  in  the  whale 
boat  brought  us  to  the  very  spot  they  were  to  come. 
We  found  several  natives  already  collected  there  in 
boats  and  canoes,  all  anxiously  looking  out  who  should 
get  the  first.  This  they  discovered  by  sitting  with  their 
hands  in  the  water  as  the  canoe  was  gently  paddled  about. 
Presently  there  was  great  shouting, — nets  were  put  out, 
the  excitement  commenced.  At  first  our  nets  did  very 
well,  but  soon  the  Balolos  became  too  numerous  for 
them  to  be  of  any  use,  and  they  were  caught  by  the 
hand  and  thrown  into  the  baskets  with  which  the  boats 
were  filled.  We  placed  a  white  handkerchief  about 


THE   BALOLO.  61 

four  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  water,  but  the 
little  creatures  were  so  thick  above  it  that  it  was  quite 
invisible.  At  first  I  could  not  make  up  my  mind  to 
touch  them,  but  seeing  every  one  else  doing  so,  I  sum- 
moned up  all  my  courage,  plunged  in  my  hands,  and 
grasped  a  goodish  number,  of  which,  however,  I  got  rid 
as  quickly  as  possible.  The  little  slimy  things  twist 
round  the  hand  in  half  a  second.  They  are,  of  course, 
perfectly  harmless,  swim  very  fast,  and  the  longer  ones 
have  sometimes  five  or  six  coils  in  the  body.  When  at 
the  thickest  they  are  all  entangled  one  in  another, 
which  gives  a  very  curious  appearance,  as  they  are  of 
various  colours,  green,  red,  brown,  and  sometimes  white. 
As  the  sun  gains  power  they  dissolve,  and  about  eight 
or  nine  o'clock  you  scarcely  find  one.  It  is  always  in 
November  they  come  in  such  masses,  just  after  the  last 
quartering  of  the  moon,  and  they  rise  with  the  tide. 
As  soon  as  the  natives  have  gathered  all  they  can,  they 
make  fires  and  ovens  to  cook  them.  Small  quantities  of 
Balolos  are  tied  up  in  bread-fruit  leaves,  and  have  to 
lie  in  the  oven  from  twelve  to  eighteen  hours.  When 
all  is  cooked,  the  natives  expect  a  heavy  shower  of  rain, 
as  they  say  to  put  out  the  fires  of  their  ovens.  Should 
there  be  no  rain,  a  bad  yam  season  is  predicted." 

Several  of  the  white  residents  eat  Balolo,  and  a 
strong-minded  English  lady  assured  me  it  was  quite  a 
relish ;  however,  everybody  knows  the  old  proverb,  "  De 
gustibus,"  etc.,  and  if  in  the  Samoan,  Tongan,  Fijian,  or 
New  Hebrides  group — in  all  of  which  the  Balolo  is 
found — a  dish  of  this  description  should  be  served  up, 
strangers  must  exercise  their  own  discretion  whether 


62 


A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 


The  Balolo  (Palolo  viridis,  E.  Gray). — Pig.  1.  The  entire  animal,  na- 
tural size  ;  2.  Portion  of  the  body  slightly  magnified ;  3.  Magnified  figure 
of  the  head,  with  its  three  frontal  tentacula  and  eyes  ;  the  position  of  the 
retracted  jaws  is  shown  in  the  central  dark  space  behind  the  tentacula ; 
4.  Posterior  extremity  of  the  Balolo,  dorsal  aspect ;  figures  3  and  4  copied 
from  Macdonald's  paper  in  '  Linnean  Transactions,'  xxii. 


THE   BALOLO.  63 

these  little,  creeping,  crawling  things,  with  their  cylin- 
drical, jointed  body,  are  a  delicacy  to  be  recommended 
or  a  nuisance  to  be  avoided. 

The  most  singular  portion  of  the  natural  history  of 
the  Balolo  is  the  regularity  of  its  periodical  appearance. 
About  Hanover  I  have  often  observed  devout  Roman 
Catholics  going  on  the  morning  of  St.  John's  day  to 
neighbouring  sandhills,  gathering  on  the  roots  of  herbs 
a  certain  insect  (Coccus  Polonica)  looking  like  drops  of 
blood,  and  thought  by  them  to  be  created  on  purpose 
to  keep  alive  the  remembrance  of  the  foul  murder  of 
St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  only  to  be  met  with  on  the 
morning  of  the  day  set  apart  for  him  by  the  Church.  I 
believe  the  life  of  this  insect  is  very  ephemeral,  but  by 
no  means  restricted  to  the  24th  of  June.  But  there  is 
an  Australian  bird  (Psittacus  undulatus)  which  is  known 
to  lay  its  eggs  always  on  the  17th  and  19th  of  Decem- 
ber, and  forms  another  instance  of  certain  actions  in  the 
life  of  an  animal  being  performed,  with  unerring  cer- 
tainty, on  particular  days. 

On  the  22nd,  at  four  P.M.,  we  entered  the  harbour  of 
Levuka,  the  principal  port  of  the  island  of  Ovalau. 
Captain  Wilson,  who  had  left  Somosomo  a  few  days  be- 
fore me,  was  standing  at  the  beach,  and  conducted  me 
to  the  office  of  the  British  Consulate,  where  I  found 
Mr.  William  Pritchard,  by  whom  the  cession  of  Fiji  to 
England  has  been  brought  about,  and  to  whom  I  deli- 
vered a  letter  from  Earl  Russell.  Mr.  Pritchard  is  the 
son  of  the  Rev.  George  Pritchard,  formerly  British  Con- 
sul at  Tahiti,  at  the  time  when  the  French,  against  the 
wish  and  will  of  the  natives,  assumed  the  protectorate 


64  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

of  that  group,  treated  Queen  Pomare  with  unusual 
harshness,  and  the  British  representative  in  a  manner 
that  nearly  brought  about  a  war  between  France  and 
England.  Born  in  Tahiti,  and  thoroughly  acquainted 
with  the  Samoan  and  most  other  Polynesian  groups,  Mr. 
Pritchard  enjoys  the  peculiar  advantage  of  being  per- 
fectly familiar  with  all  native  modes  of  thought.  During 
my  stay  in  Fiji  I  had  frequent  opportunities  to  see  how 
successfully  he  was  able  to  deal  with  these  islanders, 
whenever  any  difficulty  arose. 

We  called  together  on  Mr.  Binner,  who  has  for  years 
filled  the  office  of  training-master  to  the  Wesleyan 
mission  at  Levuka,  and  also  manages  the  commercial 
affairs  of  this  religious  society  in  Fiji.  We  thence  went 
to  Dr.  Brower,  the  American  Vice-Consul,  who  received 
me  with  great  kindness,  and  whenever  I  visited  Levuka 
I  always  took  up  my  quarters  under  his  hospitable  roof. 
Mr.  Williams,  the  American  Consul,  had  died  a  few 
days  before  my  arrival.  I  should  have  liked  to  have 
seen  him,  in  order  to  form  an  independent  estimate  of 
a  man  about  whom  so  many  contradictory  statements 
were  afloat.  He  did  not  live  on  good  terms  with  the 
missionaries,  and  controversies  were  carried  on  between 
them  in  the  Australian  and  American  newspapers, 
which,  as  is  usual  in  such  cases,  proved  advantageous 
to  neither  party.  Mr.  Williams  bought  considerable 
tracts  of  land,  and  it  was  maintained  that  the  purchase 
was  not  in  all  instances  a  fair  one,  and  that  the  na- 
tives had  only  from  fear  of  American  men-of-war  given 
their  assent  to  these  transactions.  It  is  impossible  to 
say  whether  in  all  cases  the  sellers  were  satisfied  with 


LADO.  65 

the  bargain ;  yet  I  remember,  quite  in  the  interior  of 
Viti  Levu,  Chief  Kuruduadua  publicly  declaring  at  an 
official  meeting  that  his  brother  had  sold  land  to  Mr. 
Williams,  and  that  he,  regarding  the  purchase  as  valid, 
had  no  wish  to  dispute  it.  This  was  a  great  deal  from 
a  man  like  Kuruduadua,  who  had  a  violent  dislike  to 
Americans,  as  some  of  them  had  burnt  Navua,  his  sea- 
side residence,  a  few  years  previously.  Towards  the 
natives  Mr.  Williams  appears  to  have  been  very  kind, 
and  would  not  refuse  them  anything.  I  heard  of  a 
bet  which  a  chief  made,  that  he  would  obtain  a  water- 
proof coat  just  sent  out  to  Mr.  Williams,  merely  by 
asking  for  it,  and  which  was  won  by  him  who  trusted 
in  Mr.  Williams's  generosity.  The  whole  of  the  land 
on  which  the  mission-station  at  Mataisuva  is  built,  an 
extensive  piece  of  ground,  was  presented  by  Mr.  Wil- 
liams to  the  Wesleyan  body  at  the  very  time  when 
some  of  their  members  were  engaged  in  the  hottest  po- 
lemical struggle  with  him. 

Dispatching  my  collections  made  in  the  eastern  parts 
of  the  group  by  a  vessel  about  to  sail  for  Sydney,  I 
started  with  Mr.  Pritchard,  in  the  consular  gig,  for  Lado 
alewa,  a  little  rocky  islet  on  the  western  side  of  the 
island  of  Ovalau,  which  we  reached  about  sunset,  after 
a  sail  of  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  which  Mr. 
Pritchard  kindly  invited  me  to  look  upon  as  my  home 
during  my  stay  in  the  islands. 

Let  me  tell  the  history  of  this  rock : — Once  upon  a 
time,  a  god  and  goddess,  who  rejoiced  in  the  name  of 
Lado  (=  Lando)  were  directed  to  block  up  the  Motn- 
riki  passage  leading  into  Port  Kinnaird  and  the  Bau 


66  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

waters,  in  order  to  stop  the  rolling  surf  from  disturbing 
the  nightly  repose  of  the  great  Fijian  deities.  They 
resolutely  set  about  it;  but  having,  in  common  with 
other  spiritual  beings,  a  decided  objection  to  daylight, 
they  threw  the  two  enormous  rocks  collected  for  that 
purpose  in  the  middle  of  Port  Kinnaird  as  soon  as 
they  began  to  "  smell  the  morn ;"  or,  according  to  an- 
other version,  their  noble  selves  became  changed  into 
rocks,  as  were  the  villagers  in  the  Bohemian  legend  of 
Hans  Heiling, — now  bearing  the  names  of  Lado  alewa, 
the  female  Lado ;  and  Lado  tagane,  the  male  Lado. 
The  latter  version  seems  to  be  the  most  rational, — if 
reason  has  anything  to  do  with  such  things, — for 
once  transformed  into  stone  the  two  spirits  were 
unable  to  stir  again,  whilst,  if  they  had  merely  thrown 
down  their  burden,  they  might  have  been  made  to 
resume  their  labours,  like  Sisyphus  of  old.  However, 
be  that  as  it  may,  the  fact  is,  that  we  were  now  on  the 
rock  identified  with  the  name  of  the  goddess — the 
larger  of  the  two;  and  I  trust  that  whatever  intentions 
the  Fijian  Olympus  may  formerly  have  entertained  re- 
specting the  two  Lados  in  general,  and  the  one  we  had 
landed  on  in  particular,  they  will  reconsider  the  ques- 
tion since  the  British  colours  wave  on  the  summit  of 
this  islet.  The  rocky  slopes  have  been  transformed 
into  terraces  of  flowers,  and  a  neat  European-built  cot- 
tage, with  broad  verandah,  and  a  roof  thatched  with 
sugar-cane  leaves,  contained  the  archives  of  the  British 
Consulate.  The  natives  looked  upon  this  house  as  a 
perfect  marvel  of  art ;  the  windows,  papered  rooms,  and 
above  all,  the  staircase, — the  first  ever  made  in  Fiji, 


PORT   KINNAIRD.  67 

—proved  a  source  of  never-failing  curiosity  and  admi- 
ration. 

Miss  Pritchard  made  tea  in  the  English  fashion, 
which  I  thoroughly  enjoyed,  after  being  so  long  com- 
pelled to  take  it  from  the  hands  of  rude  natives.  A 
room  was  given  up  to  me,  and  every  comfort  Fiji  af- 
forded was  bestowed  upon  me.  To  sleep  once  more  in 
a  well-constructed,  clean  bed,  under  a  good  mosquito 
curtain,  is  a  luxury  that  only  those  who  have  been 
obliged  to  forego  for  some  time  can  fully  appreciate. 
It  was  high  time  that  I  arrived  at  such  quarters,  as  I 
began  to  experience  symptoms  of  dysentery, — a  disease 
which  has  proved  fatal  to  many  new-comers  from  Eu- 
rope. However,  a  judicious  supply  of  Fijian  arrowroot, 
and  a  few  glasses  of  port-wine,  soon  restored  me  to  per- 
fect health.  Mr.  Storck,  who  had  been  suffering  from 
his  fall  and  those  ulcerations  to  which  most  people 
going  to  the  tropics  for  the  first  time  are  subject,  also 
began  to  get  better  after  being  a  few  days  at  Lado, 
so  that  both  of  us  had  reason  to  be  extremely  thankful 
for  the  hospitality  conferred. 

There  being  no  collective  name  for  the  waters  situ- 
ated between  Moturiki  and  Ovalau,  and  sheltered  by  the 
Yanuca  (=  Yanutha)  islands,  Mr.  Pritchard,  in  honour 
of  the  Honourable  Arthur  Kinnaird,  who  takes  a  deep 
interest  in  Fiji,  termed  them  Port  Kinnaird,  and  endea- 
voured to  form  a  settlement  on  the  south-western  parts 
of  Ovalau.  When  I  first  visited  this  settlement  there 
were  about  twenty-five  whites,  some  of  whom  had 
cleared  a  little  land ;  but  most  of  them  seemed  to  be- 
long to  that  class  of  immigrants  who  arrive  almost 

F  2 


68  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

penniless,  and  are  disappointed  on  not  becoming  trans- 
formed into  capitalists  on  landing.  I  endeavoured  to 
urge  them  to  begin  planting  their  land  with  such  tro- 
pical products  as  the  climate  favours,  and  told  them  of 
my  little  cotton  plantation  at  Somosomo.  All  hoped 
to  make  their  fortune  when  Port  Kinnaird  should  be- 
come the  capital  of  Fiji,  and  their  land  rise  in  value. 

The  question  of  where  the  capital  of  Fiji  is  going 
to  be  on  the  country  becoming  a  European  colony, 
is  a  much  debated  one  in  the  islands.  The  unfitness 
of  Bau,  the  native  capital,  for  all  commercial  purposes, 
being  generally  acknowledged,  four  places  have  laid 
claim  to  that  distinction, — Levuka,  Ga  Loa,  Port  Kin- 
naird, and  Suva.  Levuka  has  always  been  a  favour- 
ite resort  of  the  white  population,  and  has  a  central 
position,  and  a  tolerably  good  though  not  large  harbour, 
but  there  is  no  room  for  a  town.  Rocks  rise  from  almost 
the  water's  edge,  allowing  space  for  only  one  or  two  rows 
of  houses,  the  heat  in  which  is  suffocating ;  and  unless  a 
series  of  works  is  commenced  similar  to  those  which 
render  Valetta  a  city  of  terraces,  there  is  no  hope  of 
making  Levuka  more  than  a  trading  village.  When  I 
finally  left  it,  in  November,  1860,  there  were  only  few 
weather-boarded  houses,  belonging  to  the  consuls  and 
missionaries, — all  the  rest  of  the  dwellings  were  large 
huts  built  by  the  natives.  The  finest  house  was  that 
of  Mr.  Binner,  beautifully  situated  on  the  top  of  a  hill, 
and  commanding  a  grand  view  of  the  reef  and  its  curl- 
ing surf.  Closely  adjoining  Levuka — as  London  does 
Westminster,  New  York  Brooklyn,  or  Hamburg  Altona 
— is  Totoga,  a  fortified  place  with  thick  walls  and 


SITE   FOR   THE    NEW    CAPITAL.  69 

gateways,  where  the  Eoman  Catholic  missionaries  and 
several  French  reside.  True,  this  place  might  be  in- 
corporated with  Levuka,  but  it  is  surrounded  by  swamps, 
the  drainage  of  which  would  be  a  matter  of  difficulty  to 
a  young  community. 

Ga  Loa,  or  Black  Dusk  Bay,  on  the  southern  side 
of  Kadavu,  is  the  next  place  that  recommends  itself  to 
consideration.  Should  a  steam  communication  be  esta- 
blished from  Brisbane,  Australia,  to  Central  America, 
and  via  Fiji,  Ga  Loa  would  recommend  itself  as  a  fit 
place  for  steamers  to  call  at ;  and  I  have  advocated  its 
claims  both  in  the  '  Athenaeum  '  and  before  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  of  London,  and  shall  speak  of  it 
again  when  describing  our  movements  at  Kadavu.  But 
I  do  not  think  it  well  suited  for  the  capital  of  Fiji. 
Kadavu,  on  which  it  is  situated,  is  one  of  the  southern- 
most islands,  and  separated  by  a  sea  of  more  than 
sixty  miles  from  Viti  Levu,  the  principal  island,  and  by 
more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  centre 
of  Vanua  Levu  and  Taviuni.  Small  canoes  or  open  boats 
could  not  venture  thither  except  in  fair  weather, 
and  its  isolation  would  always  be  against  its  becoming 
the  true  metropolis. 

Port  Kinnaird  offers  great  advantages,  indepen- 
dent of  its  central  position.  It  is  a  very  fine  port,  per- 
fectly landlocked ;  and  if  a  portion  of  Moturiki  could  be 
devoted  to  a  site  for  a  town,  it  would  speedily  rise  in 
importance, — for  Moturiki  is  probably  the  finest  little 
island  in  the  group.  The  entrance  to  Port  Kinnaird 
is  popularly  regarded  as  difficult  and  impracticable, 
but  a  consultation  of  Captain  Denham's  survey  proves 


70  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

ingress  and  egress  to  be  easy.  Port  Kinnaird  would 
doubtless  become  the  future  capital  if  its  advantages 
were  not  totally  eclipsed  by  Suva  in  Viti  Levu.  So 
convinced  has  every  one  capable  of  forming  an  opinion 
become  that  Suva  will  be  the  capital,  that  the  land 
around  the  harbour  has  enormously  risen  of  late ;  £20 
an  acre  was  asked  in  November,  1860;  and  £10  I  saw 
actually  refused  for  land  a  few  years  previously  not 
worth  more  than  a  few  pence  at  the  utmost.  Not  a 
single  house  had  then  been  built.  The  general  con- 
viction that  Suva  must  become  the  capital  seems  to 
have  been  the  sole  cause  of  this  sudden  rise.  If  one 
were  to  write  a  puff  for  a  land  speculator,  one  would 
hardly  string  together  a  greater  number  of  favour- 
able conditions.  There  is  a  good  harbour,  with  mud 
bottom,  deep  water  right  alongside  of  the  shore,  shel- 
tered by  a  reef,  and  having  a  wide  passage  for  the 
largest  vessels  to  beat  out.  When  once  inside  the  pas- 
sage there  is  clear  sea-room,  no  outlying  shoals  or 
reefs.  Suva  commands  the  most  extensive  agricultural 
district  in  Fiji,  through  which  run  fine  rivers  (the  Navua 
and  Wai  Levu  or  Kewa)  navigable  for  boats  for  many 
miles  inland.  Suva  has  besides  outside  reef  communi- 
cation completely  around  Viti  Levu,  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  miles  on  the  southern  shore  and  the  westward, 
and  continuing  to  the  northward  to  Vanua  Levu,  and 
along  the  entire  southern  shore  of  that  island.  The 
convenience  of  inside  reef  communication  is  demon- 
strated in  the  case  of  parties  employed  in  sawing.  Logs 
are  purchased  at  a  distance  of  forty  miles  from  the  pits, 
and  floated  up  by  natives  at  a  trifling  cost.  Were  there 


COMMERCIAL    ENTERPRISE.  71 

no  reefs,  this  would  be  an  impossibility.  Suva  Point 
is  a  gently  undulated  country,  free  from  swamps,  and 
about  three  miles  wide  or  thereabout  at  the  base.  It 
has  on  one  side  Suva  Bay,  on  the  other  Laucala  (  =  Lau- 
thala)  Bay;  the  latter  first  surveyed  by  Sir  Edward 
Belcher,*  and  offering  many  conveniences.  The  point 
itself  is  open  to  the  prevailing  winds ;  it  is  thinly  tim- ' 
bered  with  bread-fruit,  cocoa-nut,  dawa,  and  other  trees 
of  no  great  growth,  and  thus  requires  but  little  clearing. 

A  few  days  after  my  arrival  at  Lado,  we  were  grati- 
fied by  a  visit  from  Mr.  Caesar  Godeffroy,  of  Hamburg, 
who  had  been  several  years  in  the  South  Sea  es- 
tablishing a  direct  trade  with  Germany,  and  planting 
agencies  in  the  most  important  groups.  Messrs.  Go- 
deffroy and  Co.  are  the  first  great  house  who  have 
entered  this  comparatively  new  field  of  commercial  en- 
terprise, and  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  their  ope- 
rations successful.  There  is  a  great  market  in  the 
South  Seas,  but  only  those  who  have  an  intimate  ac- 
quaintance with  the  articles  required  should  ever  be 
tempted  to  enter  it.  Even  the  comparatively  few  things 
I  took  out  for  barter  taught  me  the  value  of  inquiring 
most  minutely  into  the  exact  nature  of  the  articles  here 
current.  Knives  with  white  handles  were  rejected  or 
but  slightly  esteemed,  though  their  blades  were  even 
better  than  those  having  Black  ones,  and  so  with  every- 
thing else. 

Judging  from  the  crowds  of  boats  and  canoes  daily 
arriving  at  Lado — for  every  one  here  has  either  the  one 

*  Bcwa  Beads  are  called  in  the  Admiralty  Chart  Nukulau  Harbour ;  the 
special  chart  published  embraces  the  surreys  of  Sir  E.  Belcher. 


72  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

or  the  other — the  sudden  disappearance  of  this  Con- 
sular establishment  would  be  felt  as  a  serious  incon- 
venience. The  British  Consul  is  now  the  sole  authority 
that  keeps  order  in  Fiji — the  natives  having  voluntarily 
made  over  to  him  the  entire  jurisdiction  of  the  group, 
and  found  it  preferable  in  their  quarrels  with  the  whites 
to  abide  by  his  judgment,  rather  than  break  their  own 
heads  and  those  of  the  white  settlers  by  an  appeal  to 
the  club.  It  was  easy  for  them  to  arrive  at  this  conclu- 
sion ;  meanwhile,  the  person  who  thus  found  himself 
called  upon  to  adjust  the  differences  of  a  native  popu- 
lation about  twice  that  of  New  Zealand,  and  a  thick 
sprinkling  of  white  immigrants,  some  of  whom  hold 
queer  ideas  of  poetical  justice,  had  no  idle  time  of  it ; 
and  if  Mr.  Pritchard  had  not  acquired  a  thorough  mas- 
tery over  the  Polynesian  mind  by  means  of  his  intimate 
acquaintance  with  all  their  customs,  usages,  and  tradi- 
tions, of  which  he  skilfully  avails  himself,  there  would 
be  endless  fights  and  dissensions,  to  the  great  detriment 
of  the  native  population  and  the  interests  of  commerce. 
I  have  repeatedly  listened  to  the  proceedings  in  court, 
and  been  struck  with  the  logical  acuteness  of  the  natives. 
Their  mind  seems  indeed  of  a  much  superior  cast  to 
that  of  most  savages ;  and  their  discussions  are  as  much 
above  those  of  the  Maoris  reported  in  the  New  Zealand 
newspapers,  as  the  talk  of  men  is  to  the  prattle  of  chil- 
dren. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  Cakobau  (or  Thakombau,  as  his 
name  may  be  written  according  to  English  orthography), 
King  of  Fiji,  and  supreme  Chief  of  Bau,  paid  a  visit  to 
Lado,  and  I  was  formally  introduced  to  him.  His  Ma- 


KING    CAKOBAU.  73 

jesty  has  been  described  repeatedly  as  a  man  of  almost 
gigantic  dimensions.  But  he  is  only  of  fair  proportions, 
and  does  not  measure  more  than  six  feet  in  height.  I 
can  speak  very  positively  on  these  points,  having 
often  seen  him  with  nothing  more  than  a  few  yards 
of  native  cloth  on,  as  well  as  in  a  blue  naval  uniform. 
When  dressed  in  uniform,  people  would  scarcely  believe 
that  he  could  be  the  same  man  whose  powerful  build 
excited  their  attention.  When  one  day  in  his  company 
I  got  quite  close  to  him,  in  order  to  take  his  measure 
without  his  becoming  aware  of  the  attempt.  But  his 
quick  eye  had  detected  the  studies  of  comparative  ana- 
tomy in  which  I  was  engaged,  and  very  good-naturedly 
he  offered  to  stand  close  to  me,  when  it  was  found  that 
he  was  more  than  two  inches  shorter  than  I  am,  without 
his  shoes  and  socks,  whilst  I  measure  exactly  six  feet 
two  inches,  so  that  he  is  after  all  only  six  feet  high. 
It  is  not  difficult  to  reconcile  the  statements  relating 
to  his  gigantic  stature  with  what  I  have  ascertained. 
People  not  accustomed  to  move  much  amongst  natives 
almost  in  an  absolute  state  of  nudity,  are  generally  de- 
ceived about  the  size  of  the  person  they  see  before 
them.  Moreover,  the  King,  previous  to  his  conversion 
to  Christianity,  wore  a  large  head  of  hair,  all  frizzled  and 
curled  in  such  a  way  as  to  stand  literally  on  end,  and 
covered  with  a  piece  of  white  native  cloth, — a  device 
which  must  have  greatly  added  to  his  height,  and  in- 
duced foreigners  to  believe  him  much  taller  than  he 
really  is.  He  has  of  late  years  suffered  a  little  from 
elephantiasis,  but  generally  enjoys  very  good  health. 
None  of  the  portraits  that  have  been  published  do  jus- 


74  A  MISSION  TO  vrri. 

tice  to  him,  and  he  feels  rather  annoyed  that  Europeans 
should  think  him  as  ugly  as  those  representations  make 
him.  His  face  expresses  great  shrewdness  and  good- 
humour  ;  his  bearing  is  very  dignified  on  public  occa- 
sions ;  and  it  was  gratifying  to  see  him  at  church  be- 
having in  a  manner  that  no  reasonable  man  could  find 
the  slightest  fault  with. 

The  Queen  of  Fiji,  to  whom  Cakobau  has  been  mar- 
ried according  to  Christian  rites  ever  since  he  aban- 
doned heathenism,  is  a  rather  stout,  quiet  woman,  about 
five  feet  two  inches  in  height.  I  have  only  seen  her 
once  dressed,  and  that  at  the  time  of  our  first  official 
interview  about  the  cession.  She  then  wore  a  neat 
bonnet,  latest  Parisian  fashion,  a  coloured  silk  dress, 
and  a  black  mantilla  trimmed  with  lace.  I  need 
scarcely  add  that  the  use  of  crinoline  was  not  unknown 
even  in  this  remote  quarter  of  the  globe.  The  Queen, 
at  the  interview  alluded  to,  was  rather  bashful,  owing 
to  a  wish  expressed  by  the  Consul  that  she  should  sit 
at  her  husband's  side,  instead  of,  as  the  rules  of  the 
country  demanded,  behind  him.  However,  she  com- 
ported herself  very  well  indeed,  but  I  daresay  was  very 
glad  to  get  her  clothes  off  as  soon  as  the  official  inter- 
view was  over. 

Cakobau  calls  himself  "  Tui  Viti,"  or  King  of  Fiji, 
and  has  a  perfect  right  to  it.  True  Fiji  is  divided  into 
a  number  of  petty  states,  yet  all  of  them  acknowledge 
vassalage  to  Bau  by  paying  either  a  direct  tribute  to  it, 
or  being  tributary  to  states  so  circumstanced.  It  is 
highly  probable,  however,  that  at  one  time  all  Fijians 
were  under  one  head,  and  formed  perhaps  a  more  com- 


"TUI  VITI."  75 

pact  nation  than  they  do  at  present.  Of  course,  I  am 
aware  the  title  "  Tui  Viti  "  has  been  revived  only  lately  ; 
owing,  it  is  stated,  to  a  letter  which  General  Miller, 
formerly  H.  B.  M.  Consul-General  at  the  Hawaiian,  or 
Sandwich  Islands,  addressed  to  "  Tui  Viti,"  and  which 
Cakobau,  as  the  most  powerful  chief  of  the  leading 
state,  thought  it  right  to  open.  But  the  title  "Tui 
Viti"  occurs  in  many  ancient  legends  current  in 
various  groups  of  Polynesia,  and  could  scarcely  have 
originated  with  such  close  neighbours,  who  would 
rather  be  apt  to  detract  than  to  magnify  the  power  of  a 
foreign  nation  already  far  above  them  in  the  exercise 
of  various  useful  arts  and  manufactures.  Old  traditions 
further  state  the  Fijians  to  have  been  an  unwarlike 
people,  until  they  had  established  a  more  intimate  and 
frequent  intercourse  with  the  light-coloured  races  of 
the  eastern  groups,  when  sanguinary  intratribal  quarrels 
became  almost  their  normal  condition.  These  traditions 
would  be  favourable  to  the  existence  of  a  powerful  mo- 
narchy in  Fiji,  such  as  legendary  evidence  represents  it 
as  being  at  one  time,  and  also  its  ultimate  extinction 
and  remoulding  by  the  growing  power  of  petty  chiefs, 
skilful  in  new  practices  of  war  acquired  whilst  abroad. 
The  hypothesis  advanced  derives  additional  strength  from 
the  fact  of  all  Fijians,  though  scattered  over  a  group  of 
more  than  two  hundred  different  islands,  speaking  one 
language,  having  a  powerfully  developed  sense  of  nation- 
ality, and  feeling  as  one  people.  No  ancient  Roman 
could  have  pronounced  the  words  "  Oivis  Eomanus  sum  " 
with  greater  pride  or  dignity  than  a  modern  Fijian  calls 
himself  a  " Kai  Viti"  a  Fijian.  We  can  scarcely  con- 


76  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

ceive  these  general  sentiments  to  have  taken  hold  of 
the  popular  mind  with  such  force,  if  the  people  had 
always  been  divided  into  petty  states  as  at  present. 

Away  from  the  capital  and  Cakobau,  some  of  the  Fijian 
kinglets  talk  very  boastfully  of  their  total  independence, 
and  wish  you  to  believe  the  suzerainty  of  Bau  merely 
applies  to  certain  inferior  chieftains ;  whilst  the  social 
supremacy  is  seldom  disputed,  and  the  court  dialect  is 
understood  by  all  the  chiefs,  even  those  living  in  the 
remotest  parts  of  the  group,  and  it  has  therefore  very 
properly  been  adopted  by  the  Wesleyan  missionaries  in 
their  translation  of  the  Bible.  Each  of  these  states  or 
principalities  has  its  ambassador  at  Bau  (Mataki  Bail), 
who,  however,  does  not  constantly  reside  in  the  capital, 
but  only  when  there  is  any  business  to  transact,  which 
may  occasionally  last  for  weeks  or  months.  On  arriving 
at  Bau,  he  takes  up  his  abode  at  the  house  of  the  Bauan 
"  minister,"  if  he  may  be  called  so,  charged  with  the 
affairs  of  the  district  from  which  he  comes  as  ambas- 
sador, and  he  is  by  his  host  introduced  to  the  King  of 
Fiji.  When  Bau  has  any  business  to  transact  abroad, 
the  ambassador  selected  is  invariably  the  minister  of 
the  affairs  of  the  district  to  which  he  is  sent,  and  his 
place  at  the  capital  is  temporarily  filled  by  a  relative. 
The  office  of  these  diplomatic  agents  is  hereditary  in 
certain  families,  and  they  are  appointed  by  the  ruling 
chiefs.  Title  and  office  are  quite  as  much  valued  as 
they  are  in  Europe  by  ourselves, — human  nature  being 
human  nature  all  the  world  over. 

On  the  28th  of  July,  Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself  set 
out  in  the  consular  gig  for  Navua,  Viti  Levu,  to  pay  our 


BAU.  77 

visit  to  Chief  Kuruduadua.  There  being  rather  a  strong 
south-easterly  breeze,  we  arrived  two  hours  after  dark 
at  Bau,  thoroughly  wet  from  salt  water,  and  heartily 
glad  to  take  shelter  under  the  hospitable  roof  of  Mr.Collis, 
a  gentleman  connected  'with  the  mission.  Until  1854, 
Bau,  which  is  the  name  of  the  metropolis,  as  well  as 
the  ruling  state,  was  opposed  to  the  missionaries,  and 
the  ovens  in  which  the  bodies  of  human  victims  were 
baked  scarcely  ever  got  cold.  Since  then,  however,  a 
great  change  has  taken  place.  The  King  and  all  his 
court  have  embraced  Christianity ;  of  the  heathen  tem- 
ples, which,  by  their  pyramidal  form,  gave  such  a  pecu- 
liar local  colouring  to  old  pictures  of  the  place,  only 
the  foundations  remain  ;  the  sacred  groves  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  cut  down ;  and  in  the  great  square  where 
formerly  cannibal  feasts  took  place,  a  large  church  has 
been  erected.  Not  without  emotion  did  I  land  on  this 
blood-stained  soil,  where  probably  greater  iniquities 
were  perpetrated  than  ever  disgraced  any  other  spot  on 
earth.  It  was  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  ;  and 
instead  of  the  wild  noise  that  greeted  former  visitors, 
family  prayer  was  heard  from  nearly  every  house.  To 
bring  about  such  a  change  has  indeed  required  no  slight 
efforts ;  and  many  valuable  lives  had  to  be  sacrificed, — for 
although  no  missionary  in  Fiji  has  ever  met  with  a  vio- 
lent death,  yet  the  list  of  those  who  died  in  the  midst  of 
their  labours  is  proportionally  very  great.  The  Wes- 
leyans,  to  whose  disinterestedness  the  conversion  of  these 
degraded  beings  is  due,  have,  as  a  society,  expended 
£75,000  on  this  object;  and  if  the  private  donations 
of  friends  to  individual  missionaries  and  their  families 


78  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

be  added,  the  sum  swells  to  the  respectable  amount  of 
£80,000. 

Bau  is  built  on  a  small  island  on  the  east  side  of  Viti 
Levu,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  long  flat  of  coral, 
fordable  at  high  water,  and  in  places  bare  at  low.  The 
annexed  sketch,  taken  in  1860,  by  Mrs.  Smythe,  and 
kindly  placed  at  my  disposal,  will  give  a  better  idea 
of  the  place  than  any  description.  The  island  is  at  the 
back  about  a  hundred  feet  high,  and  around  the  beach 
thickly  covered  with  native  houses,  arranged  in  crooked 
streets.  The  top  of  the  island,  where  the  British  flag  is 
waving,  was  a  mere  receptacle  for  rubbish,  until  the  in- 
dustry of  the  missionaiies  converted  it  into  smiling  gar- 
dens and  eligible  sites  for  dwelling-houses.  At  my  first 
visit  the  natives  were  just  finishing  their  new  JBure  ni  sa, 
— a  building,  one  or  several  of  which  are  found  in  every 
town,  and  which  may  be  described  as  a  compromise  be- 
tween our  club-houses  and  town-halls.  It  was  125  feet 
long,  but  not  quite  so  high  as  the  adjoining  church, 
which  is  100  feet  high,  and  seems  a  tremendous  edifice 
for  natives  to  erect  without  nails,  and  the  use  of  such 
tools  as  are  employed  by  us. 

The  King's  residence  is  close  to  the  beach,  and  a 
large  native-built  house,  to  which  several  out-houses 
are  attached :  one  of  which  is  inhabited  by  Peter,  a  Ton- 
guese,  who  fills  the  office  of  prime  minister,  and  seems 
much  attached  to  the  King.  In  front  of  the  house  is  a 
fine  lawn  of  couch-grass,  and  groups  of  iron-wood,  and 
other  native  shrubs  and  trees, — the  whole,  I  believe,  a 
creation  of  Mrs.  Collis,  the  wife  of  the  resident  training 
master  at  Bau,  who  will  ever  live  in  my  memory,  for 


CAUSES    OF   BAU'S    SUPREMACY.  79 

having,  amongst  other  great  acts  of  kindness  conferred, 
never  failed  to  supply  me  in  this  land  of  pork  and  yams 
with  bread,  cakes,  and  other  acceptable  presents  when- 
ever I  came  in  that  neighbourhood. 

Bau  is  said  to  own  its  present  superiority  to  the  for- 
tunate accident  of  having  been  the  first  familiar  with 
the  use  of  fire-arms.  Charles  Savage,  a  Swede,  intro 
duced  it  about  the  beginning  of  this  century.  But  it 
was  not  only  to  this  accident  that  Bau  is  indebted  to 
its  permanent  ascendency.  Like  England,  but  on  a 
lilliputian  scale,  it  is  a  great  naval  power,  able  to  send 
its  fleets  of  canoes  to  any  part  rebelling  against  its 
authority,  or  refusing  to  discharge  its  annual  tribute. 
The  Bauans  are  a  fine  race,  nearly  all  members  of  noble 
families  or  gentlefolks.  Most  of  them  are  tall,  well- 
proportioned,  and  often  with  a  handsome  cast  of  coun- 
tenance. In  Fiji,  as  in  fact  all  over  the  South  Sea,  a 
man  is  estimated  by  the  height  of  his  body,  and  little 
men  are  regarded  with  contempt.  Their  tall  figures  prove 
a  great  advantage  to  the  Bauans.  This  general  con- 
tempt for  small  men  arises  from  the  fact,  that  through- 
out Polynesia  the  chiefs  and  upper  classes  are  taller 
than  the  lower  orders,  and  with  a  finer  physical  they 
combine  a  greater  mental  development.  They  are  in 
every  respect  superior  to  the  people  whom  they  rule. 
They  are  as  genuine  an  aristocracy  as  ever  existed  in 
any  country.  They  know  every  plant,  animal,  rock, 
river,  and  mountain;  are  familiar  with  their  history, 
legends,  and  traditions ;  and  strict  in  observing  every 
point  of  their  complicated  etiquette.  They  swim,  row, 
sail,  shoot,  and  fight  better  than  the  common  people,  and 


80  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

excel  in  house  and  canoe  building.  Thus  they  keep  their 
place  amongst  a  people  not  able  to  fall  back  upon  dress 
and  finery  to  lend  distinction  to  rank,  dignity  to  person. 

We  were  desirous  of  pushing  on  early  the  next  morn- 
ing, but  as  the  tide  did  not  suit,  we  ran  over  to  Viwa, 
a  small  island  close  to  Bau,  where  a  permanent  print- 
ing-press has  been  established  in  the  first  stone  house 
ever  built  in  the  group.  The  greater  portion  of  the 
Fijian  Bible  has  been  printed  at  this  establishment; 
and  the  edition,  now  exhausted,  is  very  much  esteemed 
by  the  natives.  A  Fijian  and  English  Dictionary,  com- 
posed by  D.  Hazelwood,  is  another  great  work  pro- 
duced here  in  1850.  This  Dictionary  is  full  of  a  mass 
of  reliable  information,  and  must  be  regarded  as  the 
best  contribution  the  Fijian  missionaries  have  made 
to  science.  Ethnologists,  geographers,  and  naturalists, 
and  philologists  as  a  matter  of  course,  will  find  here 
facts  and  observations  not  met  with  elsewhere.*  Viwa 
is  full  of  fruit-trees,  and  altogether  a  charming  spot. 
The  cocoa-nut  palm  seems  to  be  the  only  plant  that 
does  not  flourish.  After  having  attained  a  certain 
height  it  begins  to  wither — the  foliage  looking  as  if  boil- 
ing water  had  been  poured  over  it. 

We  found  Messrs.  Martin  and  Baker,  the  two  gentle- 
men connected  with  the  mission  of  this  place,  absent, — 
they  having  gone  to  look  for  an  eligible  new  station  on 
Vanua  Levu.  But  their  wives  were  at  home,  and  glad 
to  see  us  safe.  Through  telescopes  they  had  watched 
our  boat  on  the  previous  evening,  as  long  as  daylight 

*  I  believe  Messrs.  Triibner  and  Co.,  Paternoster  Row,  London,  have 
still  a  few  copies  of  this  publication  on  hand. 


IMPRACTICABLE   LAWS.  81 

lasted,  fearing  that  we  might  meet  with  some  accident 
in  the  rough  sea  we  had  to  cross. 

On  going  back  to  Bau,  Mr.  Fordham,  the  principal 
missionary,  represented  to  Mr.  Pritchard  the  desirable- 
ness of  prohibiting  the  importation  of  firearms  and  gun- 
powder into  Fiji.  Fighting,  he  thought,  might  thus  be 
prevented.  Mr.  Pritchard  agreed  with  him  that  there 
was  not  much  use  for  those  articles,  there  being  no  wild 
animals,  and  only  a  few  ducks  and  wood-pigeons  to 
shoot,  but  that  it  would  be  impolitic  to  venture  upon 
making  any  prohibitive  law,  waiving  all  considerations 
as  to  the  right  of  doing  so,  when  there  were  no  officers 
to  execute  it.  Even  supposing  that  a  certain  pressure 
could  be  put  upon  the  English  subjects,  who  was  to  pre- 
vent the  Americans,  Germans,  and  French  from  selling 
any  number  of  firearms,  and  any  amount  of  gunpowder, 
to  the  natives  I  On  a  previous  occasion,  Mr.  Pritchard 
was  seriously  asked  by  another  gentleman  to  introduce 
the  Maine  liquor-law.  No  spirits  of  any  kind  should  be 
landed  or  sold.  This  idea  the  Consul  also  refused  to 
entertain.  The  law  had  broken  clown  when  enforced 
by  all  the  power  of  a  great  state,  and  could  scarcely  be 
expected  to  work  well  under  less  favourable  circum- 
stances. 


G 


82 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE    WAI    LEVU,  OR    GEEAT    RIVER. — CANAL   DUG  BY  NATIVES. MATAISUVA. 

INSTITUTION      FOR      TRAINING     NATIVE     TEACHERS. — SACRED     GROVES, 

TREES,   AND   STONES. — MOSQUITOES. ISLAND    OF    NAIGANI. — MR.   EGGER- 

STROM'S    KINDNESS. — FEUDS   AT  NADROGA. — NUKUBALAWU. — TAGURU. — 

NAVUA   RIVER. 

THE  Rewa,  Wai  Levu,  or  great  river  of  Viti  Levu,  has  four 
large  mouths,  and  its  deltas  are  extremely  fertile,  and 
cultivated  to  some  extent  by  the  natives.  About  eighteen 
miles  from  its  mouth  it  receives  the  Wai  Maim,  which 
comes  from  the  west,  whilst  the  main  branch  takes  its 
rise  in  the  Namosi  Valley.  It  was  explored  in  1856  by 
Dr.  Macdonald,  of  H.M.S.  Herald,  Captain  Denham,  ac- 
companied by  Mr.  Samuel  Waterhouse,  of  the  Wesleyan 
Mission,  and  a  full  account  of  their  proceedings  has  been 
published.*  Mataisuva,  our  next  stopping-place,  is  built 
on  one  of  the  large  deltas,  a  little  below  the  town  of 
Rewa.  From  Bau  it  may  be  reached  either  by  sea  or 
by  going  up  the  Wai  ni  ki,  or  Kaba  mouth.  The 
natives  have  shortened  the  latter  passage  more  than 

*  "  Proceedings  of  the  Expedition  for  the  Exploration  of  the  Rewa  river 
and  its  Tributaries,  in  Na  Viti  Levu,  Fiji  Islands.  By  John  Denis  Mac- 
donald, Esq.,  Assistant  Surgeon  of  H.M.S.  Herald,  Captain  N".  M.  Den- 
ham,"  in  the  Journal  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  vol.  xxvii.,  pp. 
232-268,  with  a  Map  by  Arrowsmith. 


KELE-MU8U    CANAL.  83 

twenty  miles  by  cutting  a  canal,  Kele  Musu,  across  the 
longest  of  the  deltas.  Taking  advantage  of  the  tide 
setting  in,  we  left  Ban  about  noon  and  soon  found  our- 
selves in  the  canal,  probably  the  greatest  piece  of  engi- 
neering ever  executed  in  these  islands,  affording  a  proof 
how  thickly  they  must  have  been  populated  to  allow 
such  an  undertaking,  at  a  time  when  there  was  nothing 
but  staves  to  dig  the  ground,  hands  to  shovel  it  up,  and 
baskets  to  carry  it  away.  It  has  not  been  ascertained 
when  this  canal  was  dug ;  all  that  can  be  elucidated  is, 
that  it  was  made  long  ago,  and  for  the  purpose  of  carry- 
ing out  a  military  stratagem.  It  is  about  two  miles 
long,  sixty  feet  wide,  and  large  canoes  pass  without  dif- 
ficulty. On  a  subsequent  occasion,  our  schooner,  the 
'  Paul  Jones,'  finding  it  impossible  to  get  from  Bau  to 
Rewa  by  sea  on  account  of  a  heavy  gale,  actually  made 
her  way  through  this  canal,  by  taking  due  advantage  of 
the  tide. 

We  neared  Mataisuva,  the  mission-station,  about  sun- 
set, and  passing  the  mangrove  forest,  were  surprised  to 
see  the  immense  number  of  Flying  Foxes,  or  Bats  (No- 
toptcris  Macdonaldii\  rising  from  them.  They  measure 
nearly  a  yard  from  the  extreme  points  of  their  wings. 
Mr.  Pritchard  informed  me  that  at  Samoa,  the  same  or 
a  very  nearly  allied  species  is  a  great  pet  with  the  natives 
of  that  group,  and  probably  the  only  known  instance  of 
a  domesticated  bat. 

Passing  the  town  of  Rewa,  we  reached  Mataisuva  at 
half-past  six  on  the  evening  of  the  29th  of  June,  and  were 
hospitably  received  by  the  Rev.  W.  Moore,  who  was  then 
the  superintendent  of  an  institution  for  training  native 

G  2 


84  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

teachers.  A  large  square  piece  of  ground  had  been  set 
aside  for  a  number  of  houses  surrounded  by  little  gardens 
in  which  the  teachers  resided.  Some  of  these  teachers 
were  Fijian,  some  Tonguese.  The  natives  like  their  own 
countrymen  best,  because  they  always  suspect  the  Ton- 
guese, and  with  good  reason,  of  playing  into  the  hands 
of  the  Tonguese  chiefs,  whose  great  aim  is  to  make  them- 
selves masters  of  Fiji.  These  teachers,  after  having  been 
properly  trained  at  this  institution,  are  sent  as  residents  to 
those  parts  of  the  country  which  have  applied  for  them  ; 
and  they  are  of  very  essential  service  in  preparing  the 
ground  for  the  white  missionaries,  whose  limited  number 
is  quite  inadequate  to  the  great  task  set  before  them, 
that  of  christianizing  Fiji.  Many  parts  of  the  group 
are  now  anxiously  desiring  the  Gospel,  but,  with  so  few 
labourers  in  the  field  and  only  limited  funds,  it  is  im- 
possible to  do  much  more  than  is  now  attempted.  Apart 
from  any  religious  consideration,  I  should  always  sup- 
port the  Protestant  missionary  in  preference  to  the  Ro- 
man Catholic,  because  the  latter  attempts  simply  the  con- 
version of  the  heathen,  whilst  the  Protestant  not  only 
christianizes,  but  at  the  same  time  civilizes  them.  The 
quiet,  well-regulated  family  life  and  cleanly  habits  which 
our  Protestant  missionaries  set  before  the  savage,  are  of 
inestimable  value  to  the  people  whom  they  endeavour  to 
raise  in  the  scale  of  humanity.  It  is  quite  wrong  to 
suppose  that  savages  do  not  notice  whether  a  man  wears 
clean  linen  and  is  well  washed  or  not.  They  do  notice 
it,  and  never  fail  to  draw  comparisons  in  favour  of  those 
who,  by  means  of  their  comfortable  homes,  are  enabled 
to  appear  before  them  as  good  examples  of  cleanliness. 


MATAISUVA.  85 

Though  most  of  the  white  Wesleyan  missionaries  are 
perfect  masters  of  the  language,  they  own  themselves 
that  the  native  teachers  they  had  trained  generally  beat 
them  in  the  choice  of  local  illustrations.  Of  course, 
there  is  occasionally  a  want  of  tact  on  the  part  of  the 
latter.  Thus,  one  of  them,  wishing  to  illustrate  how 
wisely  in  everything  nature  had  adapted  the  means  to 
the  end,  chose  the  hand,  and  commenced  by  saying, 
"  Now,  when  you  eat  a  human  hand,  you  will  perceive," 
etc.  This  illustration  would  have  sounded  odd  to  a 
Christian  congregation  at  home,  but  never  excited  any 
notice  amongst  a  people  just  emerging  from  cannibalism. 

The  church  at  Mataisuva  is  not  so  large  as  that  at 
Bau,  but  it  is  much  better  finished,  and  some  of  the 
beams  under  the  roof  are  covered  with  different-coloured 
fibres  of  the  cocoa-nut  worked  in  various  elegant  patterns. 
The  ridge-beams,  always  projecting  on  both  ends,  accord- 
ing to  strict  Fijian  customs,  are  ornamented  with  white 
shells  (Ovulwn  ovum,  Swb.),  and  in  front  of  the  church 
there  are  some  curiously-cut  stems  of  tree-ferns.  Alto- 
gether the  building  is  a  fine  specimen  of  native  ar- 
chitecture, and  the  only  thing  to  complete  it  is  a  good 
tolling  bell.  Hitherto  the  congregation  has  been  obliged 
to  be  called  together  by  large  drums,  made  of  Tavola 
wood,  beaten  by  thick  and  short  pieces  of  wood, — a  con- 
trivance which  may  be  heard  for  several  miles  around, 
but  sounds  essentially  unchristian. 

The  Eev.  William  Moore,  as  an  apt  Fijian  scholar, 
devotes  some  of  the  spare  moments  he  can  snatch  to  a 
subject  hitherto  much  neglected,  that  of  collecting  the 
"mekes"  or  old  songs  of  the  natives,  now  fast  fading 


86  A    MISSION    TO    V1TI. 

away.  He  has  also  made  considerable  advance  in  trans- 
lating '  The  Pilgrim's  Progress '  into  Fijian,  a  task  which, 
if  I  mistake  not,  has  been  somewhat  facilitated  by  Mrs. 
Binner's  unpublished  version  of  a  portion  of  that  book. 
Biinyan's  great  allegory  has  already  been  translated  into 
one  or  two  Polynesian  languages,  and  the  natives  seemed 
to  like  it  very  much  as  long  as  they  believed  it  to  be 
a  genuine  story,  but  when  they  heard  that  it  was  only 
a  series  of  "lies,"  their  interest  abated.  It  will  be  in- 
teresting to  know  how  the  Fijians  receive  it.  They  are 
as  true  believers  in  the  genuineness  of  their  own  nu- 
merous fairy  tales  and  doings  of  their  gods,  as  the  an- 
cient Greeks  were  in  those  of  their  gods  and  demigods ; 
—  the  hold  which  Homer  had  on  the  national  mind 
arising,  probably,  quite  as  much  from  his  embodying  this 
feeling,  as  well  as  expressing  it  in  language  still  the 
admiration  of  mankind. 

Accompanied  by  Mr.  Moore  we  went  to  the  town  of 
Rewa,  in  order  to  gather  specimens  of  two  new  palms, 
one  of  them  a  fan-palm  (Pritchardia  pacijica,  Seem,  et 
Wendl.),  the  leaves  of  which  are  only  used  by  chiefs,  as 
was  the  case  with  those  of  the  Talipot  palm  in  Ceylon. 
I  also  collected  some  interesting  information  about  the 
bread-fruit,  of  which  there  are  no  less  than  ten  different 
varieties  cultivated  at  Rewa,  including  the  best  of  the 
group. 

On  our  way  home  we  fell  in  with  a  little  schooner 
belonging  to  the  mission,  and  returning  from  a  trip  up 
the  Rewa  river,  where  she  had  been  sent  for  yams.  She 
had  not  accomplished  her  object,  as  two  hostile  parties 
of  natives  had  not  allowed  her  to  pass,  and  even  fired 


SACKED    GROVES    AND    TREES.  87 

at  her,  without  however  wounding  or  killing  any  one. 
Formerly  these  inter-tribal  feuds  were  of  much  more  fre- 
quent occurrence,  and  often  protracted  over  a  consider- 
able period  of  time ;  but  since  firearms  have  become 
accessible  to  all  parties,  the  same  result  followed  in  Fiji 
as  in  Europe  upon  the  invention  of  gunpowder. 

Sacred  groves  and  trees  form  as  prominent  a  feature 
in  the  paganism  of  the  Fijians  as  they  did  in  that  of 
the  In  do-Germanic  nations.  A  fine  grove  still  exists  in 
the  Eewa  district  near  the  mission-station  of  Mataisuva, 
and  at  a  point  of  the  coast  termed  Na  Vadra  Tolu  (the 
three  screw-pines),  probably  from  three  specimens  of 
the  Pandanus  odoratissimus,  still  a  common  plant  in 
that  locality,  having  stood  there.  Leaving  the  mission- 
premises,  and  keeping  along  the  sandy  beach,  an  enor- 
mous Yevuyevu  tree  (Hernandia  Sonora,  Linn.)  presents 
itself,  forming  a  complete  bower,  which  leads  to  a  curi- 
ous group  of  vegetable  giants.  A  venerable  Vutu  raka- 
raka  (Barringtonia  speciosa,  Linn.),  more  than  sixty  feet 
high,  has  thrown  out  several  huge  branches,  two  of 
which  form,  in  connection  with  the  stem,  bold  arches. 
The  large  aerial  roots  of  epiphytical  fig-trees  are  hold- 
ing the  monster  in  close  embrace ;  several  kinds  of  ferns 
and  climbing  Aroidece  and  wax-flowers  (Hoyas)  interlace 
the  struggling  masses,  and  tend  to  increase  the  wildness 
of  this  fantastic  scene.  The  dense  foliage  of  surround- 
ing Vesi,  Ivi,  and  other  fine  trees  ensures  a  constant 
gloom  and  sombreness  to  the  place ;  and  only  through 
the  bower,  serving  as  an  entrance,  does  the  eye  obtain 
a  glance  at  the  open  sea,  and  perchance  the  sight  of  a 
passing  canoe  with  its  large  triangular  sail.  It  was  at 


00  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

this  lonely  spot,  far  away  from  human  habitations,  where 
in  the  depth  of  night  the  heathen  priest  used  to  con- 
sult the  gods  whether  it  was  to  be  war  or  peace.  If  at 
dawn  of  day  blood  was  found  on  the  path,  more  blood 
was  to  be  spilt ;  if  no  such  sign  was  discoverable,  peace 
was  the  watchword.  Several  celebrated  groves  were  de- 
stroyed on  the  introduction  of  Christianity,  and  a  large 
one  near  Bau  was  felled  the  day  after  King  Cakobau 
had  embraced  the  new  faith,  the  native  carpenters  trem- 
bling when  they  had  to  lay  the  axe  on  objects  so  long 
sacred  to  them  by  all  the  laws  of  "  tabu."  They  were 
taught  by  tradition  that  when,  once  upon  a  time,  their 
forefathers  felled  some  of  these  trees,  and  repaired  the 
next  day  to  the  spot  in  order  to  square  the  logs,  they 
found  the  trees  again  in  their  proper  position,  and 
growing  as  if  no  sacrilegious  axe  had  ever  laid  them 
low. 

Besides  these  groves,  there  were  isolated  trees  which 
were  held  sacred ;  and  in  days  of  yore  European  saw- 
yers came  occasionally  in  unpleasant  contact  with  the 
Fijians  when,  unknowingly,  they  had  cut  them  down 
for  timber.  Vesi  (Afzelia  bijuga,  A.  Gray)  and  Baka 
(Ficus  sp.)  seemed  to  have  been  those  principally  selected. 
The  Vesi  furnishes  the  best  timber  of  the  islands,  and 
may,  as  the  most  valued  tree,  have  been  thought  the  fit 
residence  of  a  god ;  there  is  nothing  in  its  appearance 
that  is  extraordinary,  our  beech  most  nearly  resembling 
it  in  look.  The  Baka  is  not  famous  for  its  timber;  but 
its  habit  is  as  remarkable  as  that  of  the  banyan- tree  of 
India,  aerial  roots  propping  up  its  branches  and  forming 
a -fantastic  maze  which  no  words  can  describe.  At  first 


SACKED    STONES.  89 

living  as  an  epiphyte  on  other  trees,  it  soon  acquires  such 
dimensions  that  it  kills  its  supporter,  and  henceforward 
must  draw  its  nourishment  from  the  soil.  There  are 
fine  specimens  of  the  Baka  on  the  Isthmus  of  Kadavu ; 
and  on  an  islet  belonging  to  Mr.  Hennig  the  aerial 
root  of  the  Baka  formed  a  cabin  in  which  Mr.  Pritchard, 
myself,  and  all  our  boat's  crew  took  shelter  during  a 
heavy  tropical  shower ;  and  twenty  persons  might  have 
found  room  there.  The  crown  of  this  tree  was  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty-two  feet  in  diameter,  or  four  hundred  and 
fifty-six  feet  in  circumference.  The  horizontal  branches 
and  the  large  roots  issuing  from  all  parts  of  the  stem, 
and  more  sparingly  from  the  branches,  rendered  this 
tree  a  noble  object,  well  calculated  to  inspire  pleasure  or 
awe.  The  Rev.  W.  Moore  lamented  the  destruction  of 
one  of  these  fine  trees  near  Rewa,  committed  by  a  sick 
man  in  hopes  that  it  might  be  pleasing  to  the  Christian 
God,  and  incline  him  to  favour  his  convalescence.  These 
sacred  groves  and  trees  were  not  worshipped  as  gods, 
but,  as  in  the  Odic  religions  of  our  ancestors,  looked 
upon  as  places  where  certain  gods  had  taken  up  their 
abode. 

Sacred  stones,  to  which  the  natives  pay  reverence, 
exist  in  Fiji ;  for  instance,  near  Vuna  and  Bau,  as  well 
as  in  many  other  parts  of  Polynesia.  Fully  granting 
their  being  the  supposed  abode  of  certain  gods  and 
goddesses,  as  has  been  contended,  we  can  only  hope  to 
arrive  at  their  real  meaning  and  primaiy  origin,  by  con- 
sidering them  in  connection  with  the  ideas  associated 
with  or  represented  by  other  monoliths.  I  would  par- 
ticularly direct  attention  to  their  peculiar  shape,  of 


90  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

which  the  missionaries  Williams  and  Turner*  have 
published  some  good  illustrations.  Compared  with  cer- 
tain remnants  of  Priapus  worship,  as  found  in  Indian 
temples,  the  "Museo  segreto"  of  Naples,  and,  freed  from 
all  obscenity,  in  the  obelisks  of  Egypt,  their  nature  be- 
comes evident.  More  or  less,  these  monoliths  repre- 
sented the  generative  principle  and  procreation ;  and,  if 
the  subject  admitted  of  popular  treatment,  it  would  not 
be  difficult  to  show  that  the  Polynesian  stones,  their 
shape,  the  reverence  paid  to  them,  their  decoration,  and 
the  results  expected  from  their  worship,  are  quite  in 
accordance  with  a  widely-spread  superstition,  which  as- 
sumed such  offensive  forms  in  ancient  Home,  and  found 
vent  in  the  noblest  monuments  of  which  the  land  of  the 
Pharaohs  can  boast.  Turner,  after  stating  that  he  had 
in  his  possession  several  smooth  stones  from  the  New 
Hebrides,  says  that  some  of  the  Polynesian  stone-gods 
were  supposed  to  cause  fecundity  in  pigs,  rain  and  sun- 
shine. A  stone  at  Mayo,  according  to  the  Earl  of 
Roden,  was  carefully  wrapped  up  in  flannel,  periodically 
worshipped,  and  supplicated  to  send  wrecks  on  the  coast. 
Two  large  stones,  lying  at  the  bottom  of  a  moat,  are 
said  to  have  given  birth  to  Degei,  the  supreme  god  of 
Fiji.  In  all  instances  an  addition  to  objects  already 
existing  was  expected  from  these  monoliths.  There  was 
a  stone  near  Bau,  which,  whenever  a  lady  of  rank  at 
the  Fijian  capital  was  confined,  also  gave  birth  to  a  little 
stone.  It  argues  nothing  that  these  stony  offsprings 
were  fraudulently  placed  there.  The  ideas  floating  in 

*  Williams's  '  Fiji  and  Fijians,'  p.  220.     Turner's  'Nineteen  Years  in 
Polynesia,'  p.  347. 


MOSQUITOES.  91 

the  minds  of  the  bulk  of  the  people  absolutely  tended 
towards  the  unbiassed  conviction  that  some  mysterious 
connection  existed  between  the  large  stone  and  the 
Bauan  ladies.  Since  the  introduction  of  Christianity  to 
these  districts,  it  has  been  found  necessary  to  remove 
the  large  stone,  leaving  its  numerous  posterity  behind, 
to  get  on  as  best  it  may. 

During  the  rainy  season,  the  mouth  of  the  Rewa 
river  is  notorious  for  myriads  of  mosquitoes.  On  some 
evenings  the  hetacombs  slain  by  incautious  contact  with 
the  name,  actually  put  the  candles  out.  Mr.  Moore  once 
contrived  a  room  on  the  principle  of  a  mosquito-curtain  ; 
but  the  contrivance  was  not  found  to  answer,  as  few 
persons  could  be  induced  to  purchase  freedom  from  irri- 
tating bites  by  confinement  for  several  hours  of  a  hot 
night  in  an  insufficiently  ventilated  kind  of  cage,  which, 
from  its  very  nature,  could  not  be  so  large  as  to  admit 
of  much  moving  about,  or  the  introduction  of  lights  for 
reading  or  writing.  Mosquitoes  are  objects  to  which 
the  attention  of  all  new-comers  is  irresistibly  directed. 
Those  of  Somosomo  never  favoured  us  with  a  call  until 
after  breakfast,  and  very  obligingly  withdrew  about  sun- 
set, to  let  us  have  the  evening  to  ourselves.  In  other 
parts  of  the  group  the  evening  is  their  very  time  for 
paying  visits.  The  moment  one  of  their  monotonous 
solos  is  heard,  a  tatti  will  immediately  follow.  The  dif- 
ference between  the  voices  of  the  various  species  is  al 
most  as  great  as  that  observable  in  those  of  men ;  and 
a  naturalist  studying  these  insects  as  thoroughly  as  they 
study  him  should  either  possess  an  ear  musically  trained 
or  else  carry  a  fiddle,  in  order  to  determine  the  exact 


92  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

note  struck  up.  I  am  persuaded  that  every  mosquito, 
from  the  large  sluggish  one  which  annoyed  us  when 
searching  for  Sir  John  Franklin  in  the  Arctic  Circle, 
to  the  little  swift  one  of  the  Equator,  may  be  known 
as  readily  by  its  peculiar  note  as  by  any  artificial  dia- 
gnosis,— the  Sydney  one  pre-eminently  by  its  very  deep 
tone. 

On  the  2nd  of  July,  about  noon,  we  left  Mataisuva, 
and  at  7  P.M.  reached  Naqara  (the  Cave),  in  the  island 
of  Naigani,  where  Mr.  Eggerstrom,  a  Swedish  gentle- 
man, had  taken  up  his  abode.  He  was  just  recovering 
from  a  serious  illness  contracted  by  incautious  contact 
with  the  Kau  karo,  or  Itchwood,  a  poisonous  tree 
(Oncocarpm  Vitiensis,  A.  Gray  =  Elms  atrum,  Forst.) 
peculiar  to  Fiji  and  New  Caledonia,  the  stem  of  which 
he  had  been  converting  into  a  flag-staff.  Mr.  Eggerstrom 
received  us  cordially,  and  had  tea  and  supper  prepared. 
He  also  wished  us  to  sleep  under  his  hospitable  roof; 
but  the  mosquitoes  were  so  very  troublesome  that  we 
could  hardly  finish  our  meal,  and  were  obliged  to  beat 
a  hasty  retreat  to  our  boat,  though  our  kind  host  assured 
us  that  if  we  remained  a  little  longer  we  should  get 
quite  as  much  used  to  their  bites  as  he  was,  and  feel  no 
inconvenience.  We  spread  the  awning  over  our  gig, 
and  made  every  preparation  for  sleeping.  As  it  was 
still  early,  Mr.  Pritchard  read,  and  I  went  again  on  shore, 
to  the  native  village,  which  I  found,  as  I  had  been  as- 
sured, quite  free  from  mosquitoes.  The  natives  were  very 
friendly ;  they  showed  me  their  canoes,  and  brought  me 
cocoa-nuts  and  sugar-cane  to  eat ;  I  gave  them  a  few 
sticks  of  tobacco  in  return,  and  wanted  them  to  dance; 


FEUDS   AT   NADROGA.  93 

but  they  informed  me,  through  the  interpreter,  that 
the  missionaries  desire  them  not  to  dance  nor  practise 
any  more  their  game  of  throwing  canes,  after  the  yams 
have  been  planted.  They  said  they  should  sing  instead, 
and  forthwith  commenced.  I  let  them  go  on  till  they 
came  to  a  "  meke, "  or  song,  in  which  they  mimicked  the 
missionaries;  I  then  stopped  them  by  wishing  them 
"  good  night." 

Most  of  our  crew  passed  the  night  on  shore,  and  Mr. 
Pritchard  and  I  slept  in  the  consular  gig,  anchored  close 
to  the  shore.  Early  next  morning  we  were  awoke  by 
the  arrival  of  a  large  canoe  from  Nadroga.  The  man  in 
charge  came  to  ask  the  Consul's  advice  about  making 
peace  with  the  heathens  who  had  for  several  months 
made  war  upon  Nadroga  for  becoming  Christian.  They 
had  only  ten  towns,  six  of  which  had  been  taken  by  the 
heathens,  and  several  inhabitants  been  baked  and  eaten. 
The  Nadroga  people  had  only  captured  two  towns,  and 
now  feared  they  could  not  hold  out  much  longer  unless 
Christian  natives  of  other  districts  hastened  to  their  as- 
sistance. They  were  now  going  to  Rewa  and  Ovalau,  to 
ask  for  such  assistance,  and  had  with  them  a  lot  of  tor- 
toiseshell,  to  be  exchanged  for  muskets  and  powder.  Mr. 
Pritchard  told  them  that  he  should  visit  them  in  about 
a  month,  and  then  use  his  influence  to  restore  peace. 
I  may  as  well  add  in  this  place,  that  he  did  so  in  August, 
with  Colonel  Smythe,  and  that  they  conjointly  sent  a 
messenger  to  the  heathens,  inviting  their  chiefs  to  an  in- 
terview. The  messenger  was  received  with  blows,  and 
told  it  was  fortunate  that  he  had  come  by  himself.  If 
two  had  been  dispatched,  one  would  have  been  sent  back 


94  A    MISSION   TO    VITT. 

to  tell  the  tale ;  now,  as  only  one  had  come,  he  should 
merely  be  half  killed,  and  might  go  home  to  say  that 
they  neither  cared  for  the  Consul  nor  for  Colonel 
Smythe,  and  declined  all  interference  on  their  part. 

We  went  again  on  shore,  as  Mr.  Eggerstrom  had  in- 
vited us  to  breakfast  and  to  inspect  his  establishment  by 
daylight.  Mr.  Eggerstrom  had  expended  a  great  deal  of 
labour  on  his  retreat,  cut  steps  in  the  solid  rocks,  and 
made  a  large  basin  for  bathing,  and  seats  near  the  spring 
from  which  the  water  was  supplied.  He  seemed  to  have 
been  anxious  to  render  his  new  home  as  pretty  as  pos- 
sible, and  paid  less  regard  to  the  requirements  of  the 
crop  he  wished  to  grow.  He  -  complained  that  nothing 
would  flourish,  and  I  told  him  that  unless  he  sacrificed 
more  trees,  his  sweet  potatoes,  yams,  and  bananas,  to 
say  nothing  about  European  vegetables,  would  be,  as 
hitherto,  a  prey  to  snails,  caterpillars,  and  insects,  and 
his  house  never  free  from  mosquitoes.  But  he  said  he 
loved  the  shade,  and  could  not  make  up  his  mind  to 
do  that. 

Although  the  place  was  swarming  with  mosquitoes 
the  previous  night,  there  was  now  not  one  to  be  seen. 
The  sky  looked  very  rainy,  and  we  hesitated  whether  to 
stay  or  push  on.  We  decided  on  adopting  the  latter 
course,  but  had  hardly  been  afloat  more  than  ten  mi- 
nutes when  the  rain  began  to  come  down  in  such  tor- 
rents that  our  boat  required  constant  baling.  We 
took  shelter  at  Nukubalawu,  in  the  house  of  an  Ameri- 
can, Mr.  Work,  who,  like  most  of  the  old  white  settlers, 
is  better  known  in  Fiji  by  his  nickname,  in  this  instance 
"  Moses."  He  had  a  sawing-pit,  which  he  worked  with 


NUKUBALAWU,  TAGURU,  NAVUA.  95 

natives,  one  of  whom  had  been  with  him  for  years. 
Though  he  was  moving  across  the  bay,  to  take  up  his 
residence  on  the  little  island  inhabited  by  Mr.  Egger- 
strom,  he  made  us  very  comfortable;  and  I  took  ad- 
vantage to  arrange  my  collection  of  plants,  which  had 
seriously  suffered  from  the  heavy  shower  that  drove  us 
to  seek  shelter  in  this  place.  The  rain  continued  all 
day,  so  that  we  were  quite  unable  to  stir. 

Leaving  Nukubalawu  next  morning,  we  passed  a  re- 
markable rock  on  the  shore  of  Viti  Levu,  which  from  its 
peculiar  shape  and  large  dimensions  Mr.  Pritchard  and 
I  named  the  "  Giant's  Thumb."  The  rain  continued,  and 
after  an  hour's  pulling  and  sailing,  we  were  obliged  to 
land  at  Taguru,  where  we  found  three  white  men  en- 
gaged in  sawing  and  building  boats.  As  Taguru  be- 
longs to  Kuruduadua's  dominions,  we  dispatched  a  mes- 
senger to  Navua,  the  chief's  residence  on  the  coast,  to 
inform  him  that  we  would  be  with  him  as  soon  as  the 
weather  permitted.  Towards  sunset  there  was  a  lull  in 
the  rain,  and  we  at  once  resumed  our  way  to  the  chief, 
who  was  not  yet  under  missionary  influence,  and  about 
whose  cannibalism  and  despotic  government  we  had 
heard  so  much. 

A  pull  of  about  two  miles  westwards  brought  us  to 
the  Navua,  one  of  the  largest  rivers  in  Viti  Levu,  and 
not  yet  explored  by  any  scientific  man.  There  are  se- 
veral extensive  deltas  at  its  mouth,  composed  of  rich 
alluvial  soil,  and  exceedingly  well  adapted  for  cotton. 
From  information  gathered,  I  was  led  to  conclude  that 
the  sago-palm  was  a  member  of  the  Fijian  flora.  My 
inquiries  commenced  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  group, 


96  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

and  I  was  always  directed  westward,  and  assured  at 
every  place  that  I  should  find  the  object  of  my  search  a 
few  miles  further  on  ;  but  that  not  proving  the  case,  I 
began  to  look  upon  it  as  a  mere  phantom,  when  at  last, 
after  a  search  of  several  hundred  miles,  whole  groves 
of  fine  sago-palms  (Sagus  Vitiensis,  Herm.  Wendl.) 
greeted  me  on  the  banks  of  the  Navua  river.  This  is 
an  interesting  discovery ;  botanically,  because  no  sago- 
palm  had  ever  been  found  so  far  south  ;  philologically, 
because  the  plant  is  here  termed  Soga,  calling  to  mind 
the  names  of  Sagu,  or  Sago,  by  which  it  is  known  in 
other  districts  peopled  by  the  Papuan  race ;  and  com- 
mercially, because  it  adds  an  important  article  to  the 
export  list  of  these  islands.  The  Fijians  made  no  use 
of  the  farinaceous  pith  the  Soga  contains,  though  they 
are  familiar  with  converting  that  of  the  Cycas  circinalis 
of  the  district  into  cakes,  eaten  by  the  chiefs. 


97 


CHAFFER  VI. 

STAY  AT  NAVUA. CHIEF  KUKUDUADUA's  HOUSEHOLD. — "  HARRY  THE  JEW." 

— A   PRINCE    AS  HE  WAS   BORN. — MASSACRE  PREVENTED. — KURUDUADUA's 

CHARACTER. STATEMENT     OF    MR.     HEEKES     RESPECTING    THE     NAMUKA 

OUTRAGE. — TOWN  AND  BURES  OF  NAVUA. — TATOOING. — RETURN  TO  LADO. 

WE  were  soon  at  Navua,  a  town  some  three  miles  up 
the  river,  and  the  residence  of  Kuruduadua,  the  great 
chief  of  this  district.  The  messenger  dispatched  from 
our  last  halting-place  having  announced  our  visit,  we 
found  the  chieftain  seated  in  his  large  house,  sur- 
rounded by  councillors  and  attendants,  awaiting  his 
guests.  As  he  and  his  territory  are  little  known  to  the 
whites,  our  arrival  created  some  sensation.  The  cere- 
mony of  presentation  is  novel.  On  entering  the  house, 
Charles  Wise,  our  interpreter  and  guide,  as  already 
schooled,  addressed  the  chief  to  the  effect  that  the 
Consul  had  come  to  introduce  a  chief  from  England, 
who  had  been  sent  to  explore  the  country;  and  that 
we  purposed  doing  ourselves  the  honour  of  being  his 
guests  for  several  days.  After  a  few  minutes'  silence, 
the  chief  orator  replied,  in  the  name  of  Kuruduadua 
(it  would  have  been  against  Fijian  etiquette  for  the 
latter  to  address  us  personally  at  the  first  formal  visit), 
that  the  stranger  chief  and  the  Consul  were  welcome, 

H 


98  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

for  their  presence  conferred  a  distinguished  honour  on 
Navua,  and  the  neighbouring  tribes  should  know  the 
fact  as  soon  as  the  great  drum  could  send  forth  its  roll- 
ing peals.  As  he  concluded,  all  the  men  in  the  house 
clapped  their  hands,  and  exclaimed,  "  Mana,  mana, 
mana  !  "  At  the  same  instant  the  great  drum,  or  lati, 
was  beaten  lustily,  and  our  presence  in  Navua  was  he- 
ralded throughout  the  district. 

The  chief's  eyes  glistened,  and  a  proud  smile  of  ex- 
ultation gleamed  over  his  face  as  we  threw  ourselves 
at  full  length  on  the  clean  mats  spread  for  us.  Our 
loquacious  interpreter  here  began  to  describe  a  huge 
iron  pot  that  was  near  the  door,  and  to  tell  how  wick- 
edly it  had  been  appropriated  to  boil  the  carcases  of 
slaughtered  men  instead  of  bcche-de-mer ;  thus  confirm- 
ing the  rumour  which  Macdonald  had  told  in  the  Geo- 
graphical Society's  Journal.  A  rather  unpleasant  feeling 
stole  over  us,  and  we  thought  of  friends  and  homes 
far  away.  Our  peace  of  mind,  however,  was  soon  re- 
stored, when  the  chief  proposed  that  we  should  join  him 
in  a  bowl  of  kava,  a  beverage  prepared  from  the  root 
of  the  South  Sea  pepper,  by  being  masticated  by  young 
men,  and  tasting  like  soapsuds,  jalap,  and  magnesia ! 
A  baked  pig  and  some  half-dozen  baskets  of  yams  were 
next  brought  in  by  women,  headed  by  the  chiefs 
favourite  wife,  all  crawling  on  their  hands  and  knees. 
Hungry  as  we  were,  the  story  of  the  big  pot  made  us 
rather  revolt  from  this  frugal  meal ;  but  ascertaining 
that  it  was  a  real  pig  we  beheld  before  us,  we  dined. 
It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  Fijian  custom  does  not  permit 
the  host  to  partake  of  the  meal  which  he  provides  for 


CHIEF   KURUDUADUA.  99 

his  guests ;  and  the  chief  eyed  us  askance  as  we  ate. 
About  this  time  a  carronade,  that  guarded  the  entrance 
to  the  house,  was  discharged — emphatically  to  demon- 
strate the  chief's  delight.  Kava,  or  "yaqpna^  as  it 
is  called  in  Fiji,  was  masticated  and  drunk  every  half- 
hour.  We  observed  that  the  string  by  which  the  bowl 
is  suspended  when  not  in  use  was  always  thrown  towards 
the  chief.  The  object  of  this  is  to  distinguish  the 
"  great  man,"  for  if  any  one  incautiously  walked  upright 
in  his  presence,  the  club  is  his  fate. 

Kuruduadua  has  ten  wives,  and  as  he  himself  does 
not  exactly  know  the  number  of  his  children,  we  were 
left  ignorant  on  that  point.  The  great  drums  were 
beaten  every  hour  of  the  night,  in  honour  of  the  guests, 
but  much  to  our  annoyance,  for  they  kept  us  awake 
some  time  after  we  retired.  Our  bed  was  made  of  se- 
veral layers  of  mats,  and  over  us  was  a  large  mosquito 
screen,  about  twenty  feet  long,  made  of  the  bark  of  the 
paper  mulberry.  As  many  as  eight  or  ten  natives  some- 
times sleep  together  under  one  of  these  screens.  Before 
retiring,  the  Consul  presented  various  articles,  as  knives, 
axes,  prints,  etc.,  to  the  chief;  and  the  usual  compli- 
mentary speeches,  expressive  of  mutual  confidence  and 
goodwill,  ensued. 

On  the  following  morning  "Harry  the  Jew"  pre- 
sented himself — the  only  Englishman  who  has  lived 
for  any  length  of  time  in  the  wild  and  unknown  regions 
of  the  interior,  and  has  managed  to  throw  a  halo  of 
mystery  around  himself.  His  real  name  is  John  Hum- 
phrey Danford,  and  he  has  been  for  so  many  years 
living  with  Kuruduadua  and  his  family,  cut  off  from  all 

H  2 


100  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

intercourse  with  civilization,  that  he  seemed  to  have 
lost  his  reckoning,  and  was  not  quite  sure  whether  he 
had  been  sixteen,  eighteen,  or  twenty  years  in  the  is- 
lands. His  story  is  full  of  adventure.  Born  in  Lon- 
don, he  was  early  apprenticed,  first  to  one  then  to  ano- 
ther trade,  but  his  employers  being  all  men  with  whom 
he  "  could  not  agree,"  he  left  them  in  disgust,  and 
took  to  the  sea.  This  brought  him  to  the  South  Pa- 
cific, where  he  discovered  that  the  captains  he  had  to 
deal  with  were  disagreeable  men  ;  and,  after  exchanging 
from  vessel  to  vessel,  he  finally  ran  away  at  Tongatabu. 
There,  after  twelve  months'  residence,  amid  many  priva- 
tions, partly  caused  by  a  great  hurricane  and  its  usual 
successor,  a  general  famine,  he  perceived  the  Tonguese 
too  were  disagreeable  people,  and  at  once  took  passage 
in  a  canoe  for  Fiji.  Arriving  in  this  group  in  distress 
from  heavy  weather,  the  canoe  was  seized  at  the  island 
of  Kadavu,  and  the  crew  condemned  to  be  baked  in  the 
oven — thus  finding  the  Kadavu  people  more  disagree- 
able even  than  the  Tonguese.  By  strategy,  however, 
he  succeeded  in  making  his  escape  to  Rewa,  where  he 
remained  some  time  with  other  white  men.  To  one, 
Charles  Pickering,  a  celebrity  of  Fiji  and  the  hero  of 
some  capital  anecdotes,  he  sold  a  pinchbeck  watch  that 
only  went  when  carried.  Whence  he  got  this  precious 
article,  he  says  it  is  unnecessary  to  tell ;  enough  for  the 
history,  that  as  soon  as  he  received  the  price  thereof 
from  Pickering,  he  jumped  into  a  boat  and  started  off 
for  some  distant  part  of  the  islands,  condemning  the 
white  men  as  a  disagreeable  set  of  fellows.  In  his 
wanderings  he  met  one  "  Flash  Bob,"  for  whom  he 


101 

acted  as  agent  in  the  selection  and  purchase  of  a  lady- 
love from  a  native  chief.  This  brought  him  once  more 
in  contact  with  the  disagreeable  whites.  He  now  com- 
menced a  beche-de-mer  establishment,  in  conjunction  with 
his  friend  Pickering,  who  had  given  him  the  nickname 
of  "Harry  the  Jew,"  in  consequence  of  the  watch  trans- 
action. After  some  months  in  his  new  business,  a  quar- 
rel arises  about  the  purchase  of  Flash  Bob's  wife;  the 
drying-house  of  the  establishment  is  burnt  down  by  a 
party  of  natives;  Pickering,  enraged  that  his  property 
has  been  destroyed,  takes  everything  away,  leaving  poor 
Danford  once  more  penniless,  shirtless,  and  friendless,  on 
the  beach.  His  nickname,  translated  into  Fijian,  has 
begun  to  work  mischief  amongst  the  newly-converted 
natives,  and  he  is  denied  hospitalities  the  heathens 
would  not  refuse,  because  he  "  belongs  to  a  people  who 
have  killed  Christ."  The  brother  of  Chief  Kurudua- 
dua,  hearing  of  his  forlorn  condition,  sends  him  an  offer 
to  reside  at  Namosi,  his  mountain  residence,  which  offer 
is  hesitatingly  accepted.  His  heart  almost  fails  him  as 
he  toils  his  way  into  the  very  midst  of  a  nation  of  canni- 
bals. But  iron  necessity  urges  him  on.  Tired  and 
footsore,  almost  in  an  absolute  state  of  nudity,  he 
reaches  the  town.  Messengers  meet  him  and  carry  him 
on  their  shoulders.  The  chief  then  gives  him  wives, 
—how  many  we  shall  not  say, — a  yam  plantation,  two 
gardens,  houses,  and  dispatches  bales  of  native  cloth 
to  the  coast,  to  be  exchanged  for  European  dresses  for 
him.  He  is  also  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  "  brother," 
and  allotted  slaves  to  attend  upon  him.  Our  hero — 
happy  man ! — now,  for  the  first  time  in  his  life,  finds 


102  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

agreeable  companions  in  the  chief  and  his  people.     In 
return  for  the  dignities  heaped  upon  him,  Harry  was  to 
repair  the  muskets  of  the  tribe,  and  to  tell  the  chief 
stories  about  the  white  men  and  their  country.    Having 
for   about  a  week  been  an   errand-boy  to    a  London 
apothecary,  he  was  able  to  dispense  pills  to   the  sick, 
and  thus  to  assume  another  important  stand  in  his  new 
life.      Years    had    rolled    on   without   his    seeing   any 
white  faces,  when  one  day  native  messengers  arrived 
from  the   coast,  stating  that  they  had  been  sent  by  a 
foreigner,  who  wished   to  have  an  interview  with  him, 
and  whom   they  described  as  wearing  a  blue  coat  all 
covered  with  looking-glasses.     Harry  had    seen    many 
extraordinary  sights,  but  a  man  thus  attired  excited  his 
curiosity,  and  he  acceded  to  the  request.     To  his  sur- 
prise, he  found   the  late  Mr.  Williams,  United  States 
Consul,  whose  brass  buttons  had   been   mistaken   for 
looking-glasses.     Mr.  Williams  had  heard  of  the  exist- 
ence of  some  copper  mines  in  the  interior,  and  was  de- 
sirous of  purchasing  them.     Through  Harry's  interven- 
tion, that  object  was  accomplished,  and  the  mines  passed 
into  Mr.  Williams's  possession,  but  they  have  not  as  yet 
been  worked,  nor  indeed  been  examined  by  any  scien- 
tific man.    Dr.  Macdonald  and  Mr.  S.  Waterhouse  paid  a 
visit  to  Namosi  when  they  ascended  the  Eewa  river;  and 
Harry,  who  had  long  ere  that  sown  all  his  wild  oats, 
and  found  one  wife  quite  as  much  as  a  sensible  man 
could  manage,  begged  the  Rev.  Samuel  Waterhouse  to 
christen  his  natural  children.     But  he  met  with  a  re- 
fusal, on  the  ground  of  his  not  being  married.     "  Then 
pray  marry  me,"  was  the  next  demand.     "Impossible," 


A    riUNCE    AS    HE    WAS   BORN.  103 

replied  the  missionary,  "  your  bride  is  not  a  Christian." 
Danford  felt  this  refusal  very  deeply.  Many  a  long 
year  had  he  waited  to  free  himself  from  the  reproach  of 
not  living  in  matrimony,  and  when  at  last  a  fair  chance 
seemed  to  present  itself,  he  met  with  disappointment. 
The  Wesleyans  have  shown  a  strict  adherence  to  a 
similar  policy,  and  they  may  be  right  from  their  point 
of  view ;  but  in  consequence  many  of  the  whites  have 
been  obliged  to  ask  the  Catholic  priests  to  discharge 
those  duties  which  their  Protestant  brethren  refused. 
The  Catholic  priests,  asking  few  questions,  have  invari- 
ably christened  such  children,  and,  remembering  the 
full  significance  of  the  formula,  that  in  marrying  we  take 
each  other  "  for  better,  for  worse,"  united  in  matrimony 
all  loving  couples  presenting  themselves  for  the  purpose. 
We  were  struck  with  the  fact,  that  all  the  young 
lads  were  in  a  state  of  absolute  nudity  ;  and,  on  inquiry, 
learned  that  preparations  were  being  made  to  celebrate 
the  introduction  of  Kuruduadua's  eldest  son  into  man- 
hood; and  that,  until  then,  neither  the  young  chieftain 
nor  his  playmates  could  assume  the  scanty  clothing  pe- 
culiar to  the  Fijians.  Suvana.  a  rebellious  town,  consist- 
ing of  about  five  hundred  people,  was  destined  to  be 
sacrificed  on  the  occasion.  When  the  preparations  for 
the  feast  were  concluded,  the  day  for  the  ceremony  ap- 
pointed, Kuruduadua  and  his  warriors  were  to  make  a 
rush  upon  the  town,  and  club  the  inhabitants  indis- 
criminately. The  bodies  were  to  be  piled  into  one 
heap,  and  on  the  top  of  all  a  living  slave  would  lie  on 
his  back.  The  young  chief  would  then  mount  the 
horrid  scaffold,  and  scanding  upright  on  the  chest  of 


104  A   MISSION   TO   VITL 

the  slave,  and  holding  in  his  uplifted  hands  an  immense 
club  or  gun,  the  priests  invoke  their  gods,  and  commit 
the  future  warrior  to  their  especial  protection,  praying 
he  may  kill  all  the  enemies  of  the  tribe,  and  never 
be  beaten  in  battle ;  a  cheer  and  a  shout  from  the  as- 
sembled multitude  concluding  the  prayer.  Two  uncles 
of  the  boy  were  then  to  ascend  the  human  pile,  and  to 
invest  him  with  the  malo,  or  girdle  of  snow-white  tapa  ; 
the  multitude  again  calling  on  their  deities  to  make 
him  a  great  conqueror,  and  a  terror  to  all  who  breathe 
enmity  to  Navua.  The  malo  for  the  occasion  would  be 
perhaps  two  hundred  yards  long,  and  six  or  eight  inches 
wide.  When  wound  round  the  body,  the  lad  would 
hardly  be  perceivable,  and  no  one  but  an  uncle  can 
divest  him  of  it. 

We  proposed  to  the  chief  that  we  should  be  allowed 
to  invest  his  son  with  the  malo>  which  he  at  first  re- 
fused, but  to  which  he  consented  after  deliberation 
with  his  people.  At  the  appointed  hour,  the  multitude 
collected  in  the  great  strangers'  house,  or  bure  ni  sa. 
The  lad  stood  upright  in  the  midst  of  the  assembly, 
guiltless  of  clothing,  and  holding  a  gun  over  his  head. 
The  Consul  and  I  approached,  and  in  due  form  wrapped 
him  up  in  thirty  yards  of  Manchester  print,  the  priest 
and  people  chanting  songs,  and  invoking  the  protec- 
tion of  their  gods.  A  short  address  from  the  Consul 
succeeded,  stirring  the  lad  to  nobler  efforts  for  his 
tribe  than  his  ancestors  had  known,  and  pointing  to  the 
path  to  fame  that  civilization  opened  to  him.  The  cere- 
mony concluded  by  drinking  kava,  and  chanting  histo- 
rical reminiscences  of  the  lad's  ancestors, — and  thus  we 


CONCESSIONS   TO    CIVILIZATION.  105 

saved  the  lives  of  five  hundred  men !  During  the  whole 
of  this  ceremony,  the  old  chief  was  much  affected,  and 
a  few  tears  might  be  seen  stealing  down  his  cheeks. 
Soon  however  cheering  up,  he  gave  us  a  full  account 
of  the  time  when  he  came  of  age,  and  the  number  of 
people  that  were  slain  to  celebrate  the  occasion.* 

Kuruduadua  was  still  a  heathen.  He  said  that  our 
religion  was  good,  but  there  were  few  true  Christians 
in  the  group,  and  he  hated  hypocrisy,  and  did  not  pro- 
fess to  be  better  or  anything  else  than  he  really  was. 
He  rather  favoured  than  hindered  the  spread  of  the 
Gospel.  On  Sunday  morning  I  heard  him  interroga- 
ting two  men,  whether  they  were  Christians.  On  their 
answering  in  the  affirmative,  he  reprimanded  them  for 
not  attending  the  church  service,  as  the  drum — the 
substitute  for  bells — had  left  off  beating  for  some  time. 
We  induced  him  to  make  several  important  concessions 
to  civilization,  to  prohibit  cannibalism  throughout  his 
territories,  and  to  keep  the  Sunday  as  a  day  of  rest,  if 
not  a  holy  day.  To  this  he  agreed  cheerfully.  Indeed 
he  seemed  most  anxious  to  stand  well  with  the  whites, 
and  one  of  the  first  explanations  lie  offered  after  our 
arrival  was  respecting  an  attack  upon,  and  plunder  of 
some  white  men,  who  resided  on  Namuka,  an  island  seven 
miles  west  of  Rewa.  The  attack  and  plunder  was  made 

*  The  custom  of  standing  on  corpses  is  mentioned  by  several  writers 
on  Fiji,  and  was  probably  practised  throughout  the  group.  Joseph  Water- 
house,  in  his  *  Vah-ta-ah,'  p.  32,  a  book  full  of  facts  not  found  elsewhere, 
describing  the  condition  of  Ban  previous  to  its  conversion  to  Christianity, 
says,  "  Down  the  next  lane  a  young  chief  is  trying  on,  for  the  first  time 
since  he  was  born,  a  narrow  slip  of  native  calico,  as  an  indication  that  he 
now  thinks  himself  a  man.  He  stands  on  the  corpse  of  one  who  has  been 
killed  to  make  his  stepping-stone  for  the  ceremony  of  the  day." 


106  A    MISSION    TO   VITI. 

by  a  chief  then  at  war  with  him.  Long  after  peace 
had  been  re-established  Kuruduadua  became  by  ex- 
change the  owner  of  some  boxes  that  had  been  taken 
from  JSTamuka,  by  the  attacking  party.  Danford  saw  the 
danger  of  purchasing  property  thus  taken,  and  advised 
Kuraduadua  to  get  rid  of  it.  However,  his  counsels 
were  unheeded,  and  when  at  a  future  time  the  boxes  were 
actually  found  in  Kuruduadua's  possession,  the  Ame- 
rican captain  sent  to  punish  the  Namuka  attack,  fixed 
upon  him,  as  one  of  the  guilty  party,  and  burned  Navua, 
then  full  of  valuable  property  of  all  sorts,  honestly 
acquired  from  white  traders.  Several  large  32-pound 
shots  were  knocking  about  the  town,  and  served  the 
children  as  playthings,  whilst  the  ruins  of  fine  large 
houses  were  still  to  be  seen.  Kuruduadua  handed  us 
a  paper  from  his  desk,  drawn  up  by  a  white  trader 
familiar  with  the  whole  affair,  which  he  begged  might 
be  made  known  to  our  countrymen,  in  order  to  acquaint 
them  with  the  real  facts  of  the  case. 

"  OYALAU,  November  27th,  1856. 

' '  Being  acquainted  with  many  circumstances  connected  with 
the  attack  upon  Namuka,  and  convinced  that  great  injustice 
has  been  done  to  the  chief  Kuruduadua,  living  at  Navua,  by 
his  being  punished  as  an  accessory  to  that  act,  I  beg  to  lay 
before  you  the  true  particulars  of  the  case  as  they  came  under 
my  observation. 

"  It  has  been  stated  that  Kuruduadua  was  a  party  to  the  attack 
upon  Namuka,  because  some  of  his  people  had  been  some  time 
before  driven  away  from  that  place  by  the  whites.  The  facts 
were  these : — Some  canoes  belonging  to  Kuruduadua's  tribe, 
as  was  their  custom  when  voyaging,  put  into  Namuka  to  spend 


THE   NAMUKA    OUTRAGE.  107 

the  night.  They  caught  some  crabs,,  and  climbed  some  trees 
for  cocoa-nuts,  as  they  had  always  been  accustomed  to  do, 
when  the  whites  who  had  purchased  permission  to  reside  upon 
the  island  rushed  out  and  fired  upon  them ;  the  natives  imme- 
diately fled,  leaving  one  canoe  behind.  This  canoe,  with  the 
property  in  it,  was  handed  over  to  me  by  Mr.  Allen  Dolittle, 
when  I  was  residing  at  Nukubalawu,  to  return  to  Kuruduadua. 
When  I  took  it  to  the  chief,  he  was  not  at  all  displeased  at  his 
people  having  been  driven  away,  and  said  that  if  they  again 
annoyed  the  white  residents  at  Namuka  he  would  himself  club 
them. 

' {  Some  time  after  this,  Tui  Solia  was  knocked  down  by  one  of 
the  whites  on  Namuka.  Tui  Solia  was  at  this  time  at  war  with 
Kuruduadua.  The  latter  heard,  through  a  deserter,  that  Tui 
Solia  intended  to  avenge  the  insult  offered  to  him  by  plundering 
Namuka,  and  put  the  whites  on  their  guard.  He  could  not 
protect  them  there,  as  it  was  not  in  his  territory,  and  he  was  at 
enmity  with  Tui  Solia' s  tribe.  He  told  the  whites  to  remove 
at  once  to  Nukubalawu,  into  his  dominions,  where  he  would 
protect  them  from  every  harm.  He  was  evidently  very  anxious 
to  secure  the  whites  from  injury.  Thus,  so  far  from  being  privy 
to  the  attack,  he  endeavoured  to  save  the  whites. 

' f  I  went  at  once  to  Namuka  to  warn  the  whites,  and  told  them 
of  Kuruduadua' s  invitation  to  remove  for  protection  to  Nuku- 
balawu, and  offered  them  the  use  of  my  boat,  which  they  de- 
clined. I  was  then  sent  for  by  Mr.  Saunders,  to  remove  him 
from  Wai  Turaga  to  a  vessel  at  Bau  in  which  he  had  taken 
his  passage. 

"  Before  I  returned,  the  attack  was  made  on  Namuka,  the 
property  plundered  and  the  white  men  carried  prisoners  to 
Numulo,  a  small  town  on  the  mainland,  which  belonged  to  Tui 
Solia.  As  soon  as  I  heard  this,  I  hastened  to  Nukubalawu  and 
met  there  Mr.  A.  Dolittle.  Finding  that  nothing  had  been 
done  towards  the  rescue  of  the  prisoners,  I  sent  for  Kuruduadua, 
and  giving  him  an  axe,  requested  him  to  undertake  their  de- 


108  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

liverance.  He  immediately  complied,  arranged  to  take  a  small 
armed  party  and  make  a  sudden  descent  upon  Numulo  at  early 
dawn.  This  lie  did.  The  people  of  the  town,  panic  struck, 
fled,  and  the  chief  was  thus  enabled  to  convey  the  wounded 
prisoners  and  some  property  to  Namuka,  where  we  had  gone  to 
await  the  result  of  the  expedition. 

"  It  has  been  said  that  this  chief  was  a  party  in  the  affair, 
because,  at  a  subsequent  period,  some  boxes,  taken  from 
Namuka,  were  seen  in  his  house.  They  came  into  his  posses- 
sion in  this  manner  :  some  time  after  the  Namuka  outrage, 
Kuruduadua  attacked  and  captured  a  town  belonging  to  Tui 
Solia,  the  defeat  causing  the  latter  to  sue  for  peace.  Friendly 
intercourse  being  re-established,  Kuruduadua  subsequently  ex- 
changed several  pigs  for  boxes  in  Tui  SohVs  possession,  and 
forming  part  of  the  plunder  of  Namuka*  It  is  quite  false  that 
Tui  Solia  was  at  the  time  of  the  outrage  under  the  influence  of 
Kuruduadua  ;  so  far  from  that,  they  were  enemies  and  at  war. 

"  Kuruduadua  has  ever  behaved  kindly  to  the  whites,  and  in 
this  respect  set  a  good  example  to  other  chiefs.  Upon  one 
occasion  a  vessel  got  ashore  in  the  neighbourhood.  He  assem- 
bled his  people,  got  her  afloat,  and  made  his  subjects  return 
the  property  they  had  taken, — this  at  a  time  when,  in  almost 
every  other  part  of  Fiji,  the  lives  of  the  shipwrecked  were  taken 
and  the  vessel  and  cargo  plundered. 

"  I  was  present  at  Nukubalawu,  when  Mr.  Williams,  the 
American  Consul,  and  Phillips,  a  Rewan  chief,  came  to  inquire 
into  the  Namuka  matter.  Mr.  Dolittle  said,  that  after  buying 
the  island  of  Namuka  they  were  entitled  to  protection.  Phillips, 
the  chief,  then  emphatically  denied  that  the  island  had  been 
sold,  but  said  that  a  gun,  a  keg  of  powder,  and  a  whale's  tooth 
had  been  given  as  the  'yaqona'  for  permission  to  reside  on 
the  island,  and  that  he  could  not  sell  it,  as  there  were  others 
who  were  co-owners  with  himself. 

"  JOHN  HEEKES." 


NAVUA    AND    ITS   BURES.  109 

Navua  is  at  present  a  collection  of  about  forty  houses, 
and  built  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  and  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  on  which  there  is  a  pri- 
vate bure  ni  sa  of  the  chief,  enjoying  a  fine  view  of  the 
flat  land  around,  the  river  winding  in  bold  curves, 
and  high  mountains  in  the  distance.  Two  creeks  inter- 
sect the  town,  over  which  isolated  trunks  of  trees  are 
thrown,  the  nearest  approach  to  bridges  I  have  seen  in 
the  country.  In  the  two  squares  are  several  venerable 
Tahitian  chestnut-trees  (Inocarpus  edulis,  Forst.)  densely 
covered  with  parasites  (Loranthus),  about  a  dozen  spe- 
cies of  epiphytical  ferns, — one  of  them  not  larger  than 
a  moss, — wax-flowers,  orchids,  mosses,  and  lichens.  There 
was  no  heathen  temple  (bure  Jcalou\  but  a  fine  one 
might  be  seen  from  the  top  of  the  hill,  about  a  mile  off. 
I  noticed  three  lures  ni  sa,  strangers'  houses,  or  sleep- 
ing bures.  At  least  two  of  the  latter  are  invariably 
found  at  every  Fijian  town  or  village.  They  may  be 
compared  to  our  clubs;  and  those  frequented  by  the 
ruling  chiefs  do  not  seem  visited  much  by  the  lower 
class  of  people.  That  at  Bau,  already  mentioned,  was 
the  largest  I  saw.  All  along  the  sides  are  sleeping- 
places,  covered  with  fine  mats,  and  large  enough  for  two 
men  to  sleep ;  and  between  each  there  is  a  fireplace, 
and  stages  to  put  the  legs  on.  Overhead  a  good  supply 
of  firewood  is  stowed.  The  centre  of  the  building  is 
covered  with  loose  grass,  generally  Co  dina  (Paspalum 
scrobiculatum,  Linn.).  There  are  no  windows,  only  low 
doors,  which  may  be,  and  are  always  closed  towards 
evening,  by  means  of  thick  mats,  in  order  to  keep 
the  mosquitoes  out.  A  large  kava-bowl.  and  bamboo 


110  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

vessels  filled  with  spring- water,  seem  to  be  the  only 
utensils  admitted.  In  buildings  or  bures  like  these,  all 
the  male  population,  married  and  unmarried,  sleeps. 
The  boys,  until  they  have  come  of  age,  erect  a  bure  of 
their  own,  often  built  on  raised  stages  over  the  water, 
and  approachable  only  by  a  long,  narrow  trunk  of  a 
tree.  The  women  and  girls  sleep  at  home;  and  it  is 
quite  against  Fijian  etiquette  for  a  husband  to  take  his 
night's  repose  anywhere  except  at  one  of  the  public 
bures  of  his  town  or  village,  though  he  will  go  to  his 
family  soon  after  dawn.  In  the  daytime  the  bures  are 
generally  deserted.  Towards  four  o'clock  people  begin 
to  pour  in,  and  if  any  strangers  arrive  they  will  inva- 
riably take  up  their  quarters  at  these  places.  Here  po- 
litics and  all  events  of  the  day  are  discussed,  and  when 
talking,  the  men,  even  high  chiefs,  will  be  plaiting  cocoa- 
nut  fibre  into  sinnet,  so  much  used  in  the  construction  of 
houses,  canoes,  and  arms.  And  a  great  deal  these  people 
have  to  talk  about :  the  politics  of  the  groups,  inde- 
pendent of  the  new  element  introduced  by  the  cession 
of  the  country  to  England,  the  never-ending  intrigues 
of  the  Tonguese  immigration,  the  endeavour  of  mission- 
aries, consuls,  and  traders  to  spread  Christianity  and 
civilization,  are  rather  complicated,  and  give  rise  to  a 
good  deal  of  discussion  and  speculation. 

When  evening  is  coming  on,  the  bure  is  beginning  to 
fill ;  most  of  the  fires  between  the  sleeping-places  are 
lit,  and  the  natives  are  leisurely  stretched  on  the  mats, 
their  legs  cocked  up  the  stages,  like  Yankees  in  a  ta- 
vern— all  smoking  their  cigarettes,  made  of  self-grown 
tobacco  and  dry  banana  leaves.  Now  come  the  kava- 


LIFE    IN   THE    BUKES.  Ill 

chewers,  comely-looking  youngsters,  carrying  the  large 
wooden  bowl,  a  cocoa-nut  shell  for  drinking  the  bever- 
age, the  bamboo  water- vessel,  a  handful  of  fibre  for 
straining  the  kava,  and  the  root  of  the  South  Sea  pep- 
per from  which  it  is  prepared.  No  sooner  have  they 
taken  their  seat,  and  commenced  chewing,  taking  care 
to  throw  the  rope  affixed  to  the  kava-bowl  toward  the 
person  highest  in  rank,  than  a  leading  man,  perhaps  a 
heathen  priest,  begins  chanting  a  song,  in  which  the 
whole  assembly  joins;  and  two  young  fellows  beat  time 
with  little  sticks,  applied  on  a  bamboo  or  any  other 
sounding  wood  that  happens  to  be  handy.  The  leader 
of  the  chant  does  not  sit  motionless,  but  waves  his  body, 
arms,  and  hands  in  such  a  variety  of  ways,  and  with 
such  extreme  ease,  that  you  fancy  you  can  imitate  him 
as  readily  as  the  whole  assembly  does.  But  the  very  first 
time  you  fail,  to  the  great  delight  of  your  native  spec- 
tators. His  motions  are  not  difficult,  but  you  never 
know  what  they  are  going  to  be  until  it  is  too  late  to 
imitate,  and  he  has  already  passed  on  to  something  else. 
The  interest  of  this  bye-play  is  thus  well  kept  up,  and 
the  Fijians  deserve  full  credit  of  having  obtained  hold 
of  one  of  the  great  secrets  of  fixing  the  attention  on  an 
object,  or  making  it,  in  other  words,  interesting.  They 
know  the  art  of  concealing  the  end  as  long  as  possible. 
What  would  our  novelists  do  without  the  use  of  this 
machinery  (  How  dull  would  life  itself  be  if  the  future 
was  unveiled  to  us  ! 

The  lads,  having  chewed  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the 
root,  place  the  masticated  mass  into  the  bowl.  Now 
water  is  poured  on,  the  whole  yellowish-looking  fluid 


112  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

strained  through  fibres,  and  a  cup  filled.  Whilst  the 
cup-bearer  is  holding  it  to  hand  to  the  chief  or  highest 
personage  present,  an  old  man  gives  the  toast  of  the 
evening.  It  is  pathetic  or  humorous,  as  occasion  de- 
mands, and  listened  to  with  attention ;  all  singing  and 
beating  with  sticks  having  ceased  the  moment  the  cup 
was  filled.  A  general  shout  follows  the  conclusion  of 
this  toast,  the  cup  is  emptied  in  one  draught,  and 
thrown  by  the  drinker  on  the  mat,  to  be  filled  again 
and  handed  to  the  next  in  rank,  until  the  whole  assem- 
bly has  been  served. 

The  song  becomes  less  and  less  hearty,  the  conver- 
sation slackens,  and  one  by  one  the  men  drop  off  to 
sleep.  Strange  sight !  Their  pillows  are  made  of  a 
thick  stick,  have  four  legs,  and  are  put  just  under  the 
neck,  so  that  the  hair  of  the  sleepers  may  not  be  de- 
ranged. They  have  had  it  only  recently  newly  done  up, 
washed  with  lime  to  make  it  frizzed  like  that  of  negroes, 
dyed  in  various  colours,  and  arranged  in  many  different 
ways.  Several  days  must  have  been  spent  to  get  some 
of  these  extraordinary  heads  dressed.  And  for  this 
reason — no  other — they  are  ready  to  sleep  all  their  lives 
on  a  pillow  made  of  a  stick  of  wood,  and  so  constructed 
that  a  European  could  not  rest  his  neck  five  minutes 
upon  it  without  suffering  dreadful  pain.  It  is  very  fine 
talking  about  the  ease  of  living  in  a  state  of  nature,  but 
the  inconveniences  to  which  savages  put  themselves  in 
order  to  gratify  their  vanity  are  quite  as  great,  if  not 
greater,  than  those  forced  upon  us  by  the  fashions  and 
dictates  of  our  own  society.  Think  of  the  agonies  of 
tatooing !  What  would  the  natives  give  to  escape  it,  if 


TAT001NG.  113 

society  would  let  them  ?  But  the  stern  laws  of  fashion 
allow  of  no  exception.  In  Fiji  this  practice  is  confined 
to  the  women,  the  operation  being  performed  by  mem- 
bers of  their  own  sex,  and  applied  solely  to  the  corners 
of  the  mouth,  and  those  parts  of  the  body  covered  by 
the  scanty  clothing  worn  by  them.  The  skin  is  punc- 
tured by  an  instrument  made  of  bone,  or  by  the  spines 
of  the  shaddock-tree ;  whilst  the  dye  injected  into  the 
punctures  is  obtained  chiefly  from  the  candle-nut.  No 
reason  is  given  for  the  adoption  of  the  custom,  beyond 
its  being  commanded  by  Degei,  their  supreme  god. 
Neglect  of  this  divine  commandment  is  believed  to  be 
punished  after  death.  The  men  probably  refrain  from 
tatooing,  because  their  skin,  generally  speaking,  is  so 
dark  that  the  designs  would  not  be  seen,  and  the  pain- 
ful operation  undergone  would  be  mere  labour  thrown 
away. 

In  Polynesia  tatooing  seems  to  have  attained  its  cul- 
minating point  in  the  Society  Islands  and  the  Mar- 
quesas, where  both  men  and  women  submitted  to  it ; 
proceeding  thence  eastward  to  Samoa  and  Tonga,  we 
find  it  restricted  to  the  men ;  in  Fiji  to  the  women, 
and  altogether  ceasing  in  the  New  Hebrides.  Yet, 
strange  to  add,  Polynesian  tradition  asserts  that  the 
custom  was  known  in  Fiji  before  its  being  adopted 
in  Samoa  and  Tonga.  Two  goddesses,  Taema  and 
Tilafainga,  swam  from  Fiji  to  Samoa,  and  on  reach- 
ing the  latter  group,  commenced  singing,  "Tatoo  the 
men,  but  not  the  women."*  Hence  the  two  were 
worshipped  as  the  presiding  deities  by  those  who 

*  Turner's  '  Nineteen  Years  in  Polynesia,'  p.  182. 

I 


114  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

followed  tatooing  as  a  trade  ;  for  a  trade  it  was  and  is, 
quite  as  much  as  tailoring  is  in  our  own  country,  and 
requiring  by  far  greater  care  and  caution.  The  blue 
tracery  once  made  cannot,  li'ke  a  coat  or  pair  of  trousers, 
be  thrown  aside  when  spoilt  in  the  cut,  but  has  to  be 
worn  for  life,  exposed  to  all  the  remarks  which  good 
and  ill-natured  friends  may  be  disposed  to  make.  A 
tradition,  current  in  Tonga  and  Fiji,  corroborates  the 
fact  of  tatooing  having  been  derived  from  the  latter 
group.  It  is  stated,  that  at  a  remote  period  the  king 
of  Tonga  (Tui  Toga)  sent  a  mission  to  Fiji,  in  order  to 
ascertain  whether,  as  had  been  reported,  the  women  of 
those  islands  were  tatooed.  On  reaching  the  island  of 
Ogea,  in  the  eastern  part  of  Fiji,  the  mission,  with  some 
difficulty,  made  the  natives  comprehend  that  they  wished 
to  find  out  what  sex  was  tatooed  (qia) ;  to  which  the 
Fijians  replied,  "  Qia  na  alewa "  (women  are  tatooed). 
In  obedience  to  orders,  the  first  person  met  had  been 
asked,  and  as  a  plain  answer  to  a  plain  question  had 
been  obtained,  the  mission  departed  homewards.  There 
were  no  other  means  of  remembering  the  answer  than 
by  repeating  it  continually.  This  was  done  without 
interruption  until  their  canoe  reached  the  Ogea  pas- 
sage, where,  the  sea  becoming  rough,  apprehensions 
about  the  safety  of  the  canoe  began  to  be  entertained, 
and  in  the  ensuing  excitement  the  repetition  of  the  pre- 
cious words  was  neglected.  Suddenly  the  neglect  was 
perceived,  and  it  was  asked  all  round  what  the  words 
were.  Somebody  replied,  "  Qia  na  tagane  "  (men  are 
tatooed),  instead  of  "  Qia  na  alewa "  (women  are 
tatooed) ;  which  mistake,  passing  unnoticed,  was  re- 


KALOU    RERE.  115 

peated  until  the  crew  reached  Tonga ;  and  on  being 
reported  to  the  king,  he  exclaimed,  "  Oh,  it  is  men, 
not  women  that  are  tatooed  !  well,  then,  1  will  be  ta- 
tooed  at  once."  The  example  set  was  speedily  followed ; 
hence  the  custom,  that  in  Fiji  the  women,  in  Tonga  the 
men  are  tatooed ;  hence  also,  adds  the  tradition,  the 
name  of  the  Ogea  passage,  "  Qia  na  tagane."* 

Kuruduadua  accompanied  us  on  an  exploring  trip 
down  the  Navua  river,  which  we  found  to  have  several 
deltas,  one  of  which  is  called  Deuba.  We  passed  the 
mouth,  and  went  several  miles  westward,  as  far  as  Vanua- 
clogo  point,  which  is  near  Qamo  peak.  Close  to  one  of 
the  villages  we  stopped  at  there  was  a  miniature  temple, 
built  of  tree-fern  wood,  and  thatched  with  Makita- 
leaves.  Here  parties  of  young  men  assemble  for  seve- 
ral weeks  in  order  to  practise  certain  tricks,  which, 
when  they  are  perfect  in  them,  are  exhibited  before  a 
numerous  audience,  but  as  long  as  they  are  practising 
nobody  is  supposed  to  go  near  them.  On  the  day  of 
the  performance,  the  actors  oil  their  bodies  well  and 
dress  in  white  native  cloth.  The  spectators,  old  and 
young,  having  formed  a  ring  around  them,  the  actors 
commence  by  chanting  songs  and  beating  time  on 
bamboos,  until  they  have  worked  themselves  up  to  a 
certain  pitch  of  excitement.  Now  a  spirit  (Kalou  Eere) 
is  supposed  to  enter  them,  and  they  pretend  to  be  in- 
vulnerable to  spear,  proof  against  musket  ball,  and  safe 
against  the  eifects  of  heat  or  flame.  By  sleight  of 

*  Another  version  of  the  tradition  is  given  by  Williams,  'Fiji  and 
Fijians,'  vol.  i.  p.  160,  where  a  man,  repeating  the  intelligence,  violently 
strikes  his  foot  against  the  stump  of  a  tree,  and  in  the  confusion  ensuing 
changes  its  tenor. 

I    2 


116  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

hand,  they  endeavour  to  make  good  their  pretensions. 
A  spearhead  is  softened  so  as  not  to  hurt  when  thrown ; 
the  ball  put  in  the  musket  is  too  small,  and  thus  rolls 
out  when  the  actors  begin  to  dance  about  previous  to  dis- 
charging it ;  and  the  fiery  oven  into  which  a  man  creeps 
and  allows  himself  to  be  covered  up,  has  a  tunnel  and 
vent-hole,  by  which  he  has  a  chance  of  escaping.  Acci- 
dents, however,  will  happen  even  in  this  well-regulated 
community.  The  spear  unskilfully  handled  has  been 
known  to  hurt;  too  much  wadding  put  into  the  gun  has 
prevented  the  ball  from  rolling  out ;  the  tunnel  has  been 
apt  to  fall  in,  and  after  some  hours  the  man  who  al- 
lowed himself  to  be  thrown  into  it,  has  been  found  to  be 
perfectly  baked.  The  Kalou  Here,  with  its  high  poles, 
streamers,  evergreens,  masquerading,  trumpet-shells, 
chants,  and  other  wild  music,  is  the  nearest  approach 
to  dramatic  representation  the  Fijians  seem  to  have  made, 
and  it  is  with  them  what  private  theatricals  are  with  us. 
They  are  also  on  other  occasions  very  fond  of  dressing 
themselves  in  fantastic,  often  very  ridiculous  costume ; 
and  in  nearly  every  large  assembly  there  are  buffoons. 
Court  fools,  in  many  instances  hunchbacks,  are  often 
attached  to  a  chiefs  establishment. 

Finding  that  Kuruduadua  was  a  man  in  whom  con- 
fidence could  be  placed,  we  made  arrangements  for 
going  to  Namosi,  so  as  to  connect  the  discoveries  of 
Macdonald  and  Samuel  Waterhouse  with  the  southern 
coast  of  Viti  Levu;  but,  as  the  weather  had  become 
extremely  boisterous,  and  heavy  rains  had  rendered 
travelling  in  the  interior  impossible,  we  determined  to 
wait  for  more  favourable  weather,  and  return  at  once  to 
Lado. 


DEPARTURE   FROM    NAVUA.  117 

As   a  heavy  south-east  gale  was  blowing,  the   chief 
told  us  we  should  not  be  able  to  proceed  very  far,  and 
he  hoped  that  if  on  reaching  the  sea  we  should  find  it 
too  boisterous,  we  would  not  mind  coming  back.     We 
were  out  of  tea,  biscuit,  and  all  the  other  necessaries  a 
European  requires,  unable  to  walk  about, — the  heavy 
rain  having  rendered  the  neighbourhood  of  Navua  a 
perfect  swamp, — and  tired  of  staying  indoors  and  wait- 
ing for  the    weather  to  clear  up;    so  we  left  on   the 
morning  of  the  9th    of  July.      The    sea  was  rougher 
than   we  had   expected.    We  had  to  bale  constantly, 
and  therefore  effected  a  landing  on  the  sandy  beach,  and 
walked  to  Taguru,  where  we  had  to  stay  two  days.    The 
boat,  lightened,  reached  the  place  with  difficulty.     On 
the  third  day  the  gale  and  rain,  which  now  had  lasted 
a  week,  abated,  and  we  pushed  on  once  more.     Calling 
at  Naigani  Island,  we  heard  from  Mr.  Work,  whom  we 
found  quite  established  in  his  new  home,  that  the  Kau 
karo,   or  itchwood,  the  poisonous  properties  of  which 
had  caused  Mr.  Eggerstrom  to  be  ill  for  two  months, 
grew  on  the  banks  of  a  small  river  of  Viti  Levu,  nearly 
opposite  the  island.      We  at  once  made  up  our  mind 
to  fetch  specimens,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  real  name 
of  the  tree.      We  had  no  difficulty  in  finding  it,  and 
it  proved  to  be  Oncocarpus  Vitiensis,  A.  Gray,  or,  as  Fos- 
ter nearly  a  hundred  years  ago  called  it,  Ehus  atrum. 
There  was  a  considerable  village  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  up  the  river,  which  we  could  reach  in  our  gig. 
The  inhabitants  looked  dreadfully  unhealthy;  most  of 
the  men  had  elephantiasis,  and  many  of  the   children 
were  covered  with  ulcers.     No  doubt  the  site  of  the 


118  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

village  in  a  low  valley  in  a  great  measure  accounted  for 
.this.  We  were  roving  over  the  hills,  when  a  message 
from  Ovalau  reached  us  with  the  glad  tidings  that 
Colonel  Smythe  had  safely  arrived  in  Levuka,  and  was 
desirous  of  seeing  us. 

Without  loss  of  time  we  returned  to  Mr.  Work's  house, 
left  it  after  midnight,  and  reached  Mataisuva  at  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  where  we  breakfasted  with  our 
kind  friend  Mr.  Moore.  There  had  been  some  trouble 
with  the  natives.  An  Englishman  had  run  away  with 
the  wife  of  a  Viwa  chief,  and  refused  to  give  her  up. 
The  chief,  justly  exasperated,  threatened  revenge,  and 
would  have  proceeded  to  extremities,  if  Mr.  Moore  had 
not  persuaded  the  Rewa  chief,  in  whose  territory  the 
eloped  one  resided,  to  step  in,  on  the  grounds  that  the 
Viwa  chief  had  no  right  to  cause  a  disturbance  on 
territories  not  his  own.  They  referred  the  case  to  Mr. 
Pritchard,  who  remonstrated  with  the  white  man,  tell- 
ing him  that  if  he,  an  Englishman,  was  clubbed  in 
consequence  of  the  provocation  given,  no  government 
could  possibly  ask  for  satisfaction;  and  on  the  other 
hand,  that  if  no  notice  were  taken  of  his  murder,  the 
lives  of  the  other  whites  would  be  in  danger.  So  the 
woman  must  instantly  be  given  up. 

We  had  hoped  to  reach  Lado  that  day,  but  the  loss 
of  time  caused  by  this  troublesome  man  delayed  our 
departure  until  noon.  We  again  passed  through  the 
Rewa  river  and  the  Kele  musu  canal,  and  towards  sun- 
set reached  Kaba,  where  we  took  up  our  quarters  at  the 
house  of  Peter,  a  Tonguese  teacher  connected  with  the 
Wesleyan  mission.  Pie  was  a  fine  specimen  of  his  race, 


A  TONGAMAN  SAVED  FROM  DROWNING.      119 

and  made  us  as  comfortable  as  his  means  permitted. 
This  man  and  a  boy  had  been  saved  from  drowning 
by  our  interpreter,  Mr.  Charles  Wise,  whom  he  wel- 
comed with  cordiality.  When  picked  up  at  sea,  he  had 
been  several  days  in  the  water — incredible  as  it  may 
appear.  His  canoe  had  been  upset,  and  his  companions, 
all  good  swimmers,  had  against  his  entreaties  separated 
from  him,  and  they  had  all  perished,  being  probably 
eaten  by  sharks  These  animals  were  furious  in  their 
attacks,  and  Peter  killed  several  of  them  with  his  knife 
during  the  time  he  was  in  the  water ;  they  troubled 
him  little  during  the  night,  but  became  very  rapacious 
as  soon  as  daylight  was  established.  He  was  also  at- 
tacked by  a  small  sea-animal  which  bored  regular  holes 
into  his  flesh,  and  would  have  caused  his  death  if  he 
had  not  been  speedily  delivered.  When  Wise  took  him 
on  board,  he  was  perfectly  exhausted,  and  continually 
cried  for  water.  Every  means  were  used  to  restore  his 
strength ;  his  body  was  oiled,  and  food  and  drink  given 
to  him. 

When  the  moon  rose  we  took  our  departure,  and 
early  next  morning  reached  Lado  Alewa,  in  Port  Kin- 
naird. 


120 


CHAPTER  VII. 

ARRIVAL     OF     COLONEL     SMYTHE     FROM     NEW     ZEALAND. THE    '  PEGASUS  ' 

AND    '  PAUL     JONES.' — VISIT     TO     BAU. QUARRELSOME     DISPOSITION     OF 

THE     CHIEF     OF    THE     FISHERMEN. — CESSION     OF     FIJI     TO     ENGLAND. — 
FIRST    OFFICIAL    INTERVIEW   WITH    THE    KING. 

THE  native  war  in  New  Zealand  continuing  and  keep- 
ing all  available  naval  force  employed,  Colonel  Smythe 
had  been  unable  to  obtain  a  Government  vessel  to 
take  him  to  and  about  Fiji,  and  had  therefore  been 
compelled  to  charter  the  '  Pegasus,'  an  extremely  slow- 
sailing,  ill-manned  ketch,  commanded  by  a  gossiping 
captain,  who  ultimately  returned  to  New  Zealand  with- 
out paying  even  the  crew,  which  the  British  Consul 
had  been  obliged  to  put  on  board.  Mr.  Pritchard  and 
myself  called  on  Colonel  Smythe  on  the  16th  of  July, 
and  regretted  to  hear  of  his  long  and  stormy  passage. 
He  had  arrived  on  the  5th  of  July,  and  we  found  him 
comfortably  quartered  at  Levuka,  in  the  house  of  Mr. 
Binner.  Mrs.  Smythe  was  making  a  water-colour  draw- 
ing of  the  Levuka  reef,  which  from  Mr.  Binner's  house, 
situated  as  it  is  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  displays  itself  in 
all  its  grandeur,  and  together  with  the  little  islands  at 
a  distance,  and  the  shipping  of  the  port,  forms  a  pano- 
rama not  easily  matched. 

The  '  Pegasus  '  not  having  accommodation  for  more 


THE  'PEGASUS'  AND  'PAUL  JONES.'  121 

than  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Smythe,  Mr.  Pritchard  and  my- 
self chartered  the  '  Paul  Jones,'  the  same  little  schooner 
which  fetched  me  from  Somosomo.  She  was  scarcely 
better  than  an  open  boat,  and  we  had  to  wash,  dress, 
and  take  our  meals  on  deck,  the  cabin  being  too  small 
to  hold  more  than  two  bunks,  an  apology  for  a  table, 
and  two  lockers  serving  also  as  substitutes  for  benches. 
But  we  managed  very  well,  and  as  she  beat  the  '  Pega- 
sus '  even  in  short  distances  by  whole  days,  we  generally 
reached  our  destination  long  before  Colonel  Smythe's 
party  did,  and  soon  transferred  our  abode  on  shore. 
When  I  came  from  Somosomo  she  was  swarming  with 
cockroaches,  to  such  an  alarming  extent  that  there  was 
no  staying  in  her ;  and  when  going  to  sleep  we  had  to 
cover  our  faces,  to  screen  at  least  that  part  of  our  bodies 
against  attack.  But  she  had  since  been  sunk  under 
water, — the  only  method  here  practised  to  free  vessels 
from  that  pest, — newly  painted,  and  done  up,  so  that  as 
far  as  her  size  would  allow  she  was  tolerably  comfort- 
able. Besides  Mr.  Storck,  we  had  Mr.  Charles  Wise,  the 
consular  interpreter,  on  board,  a  half-caste  who  had  been 
brought  up  by  the  late  Rev.  John  Hunt,  for  whose  me- 
mory he  entertained  a  warm  admiration,  justly  shared  by 
all  who  knew  that  excellent  man. 

It  was  arranged  with  Colonel  Smythe,  that  we  should 
visit  the  principal  chiefs,  commencing  at  Bau,  the  capi- 
tal of  the  group.  The  two  vessels  met  at  Port  Kin- 
naird ;  and  we  finally  left  Lado,  at  that  time  the  Con- 
sul's residence,  on  the  24th  of  July,  at  noon.  The  'Paul 
Jones '  anchored  off  Bau  on  the  same  day,  but  the  '  Pe- 
gasus,' to  give  an  instance  of  her  bad  sailing  qualities, 
only  arrived  on  the  following  day  late  at  night. 


122  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

There  was  a  serious  quarrel  between  the  Chief  of  the 
Fishermen  and  Ratu  Abel,  the  King's  eldest  son,  the 
former  having  insulted  the  Queen,  and  the  latter  sent 
him  a  challenge  in  consequence.  A  duel  was  impend- 
ing when  we  arrived,  and  the  British  Consul's  persuasive 
powers  were  appealed  to  by  various  parties.  Mr.  Prit- 
chard  publicly  asked  the  Chief  of  the  Fishermen  why 
he  had  offered  the  insult  to  his  sovereign,  but  he  re- 
fused to  answer ;  Mr.  Frit  chard  then  told  him  he  would 
wait  for  an  answer,  even  if  he  had  to  sit  up  all  night. 
The  Chief,  seeing  that  the  Consul  was  as  good  as  his 
word,  and  that  there  was  no  escape  possible,  after  a  si- 
lence of  two  hours  gave  the  desired  answer,  begged  the 
King's  pardon,  and  all  was  arranged  amicably.  Ratu 
Abel  was  present  during  the  whole  interview,  and  be- 
haved extremely  well  in  the  affair.  He  is  a  fine  specimen 
of  a  Fijian  prince,  and  will  doubtless  succeed  his  father 
to  the  throne,  though  some  of  the  missionaries  have 
been  trying  to  persuade  the  King  to  change  the  law,  by 
settling  the  succession  upon  his  younger  son,  born  after 
he  had  become  converted  to  Christianity,  and  married 
according  to  our  rites.  But  such  a  change  would  doubt- 
less lead  to  endless  complications  and  confusion,  and 
be  unjust  towards  a  child  perfectly  legitimate  accord- 
ing to  the  custom  prevailing  at  the  time  of  his  birth. 
It  is  in  petty  interferences  like  these  that,  doubtless 
much  to  the  regret  of  the  enlightened  minds  composing 
the  Board  directing  the  truly  grand  machinery  of  the 
Wesleyan  Society,  the  missionaries  draw  upon  themselves 
the  censure  of  people  who  fully  sympathize  with  the 
noble  work  they  have  in  hand,  and  who  would  do  any- 


THE    CHIEF    OF   THE    FISHERMEN.  123 

thing  in  their  power  to  advance  their  true  interest.  Be 
it  known,  that  interference  in  politics  on  the  part  of 
the  "Wesleyan  missionaries  is  decidedly  disapproved  of 
by  their  Board  at  home,  and  that  stringent  instructions 
are  published  to  that  effect. 

The  Chief  of  the  Fishermen,  an  important  body  in 
Bau,  is  a  scheming  fellow,  who  more  than  once 
caused  mischief.  On  one  occasion,  when  some  British 
interest  was  involved,  Mr.  Pritchard,  who,  born  and 
bred  in  Polynesia,  is  perfectly  familiar  with  native 
modes  of  thought,  and  owes  a  great  deal  of  his  influ- 
ence to  it,  wished  to  impress  the  chief  with  the  idea 
that  whatever  plots  he  was  hatching  they  were  sure 
to  be  found  out  by  those  more  clever  than  himself.*  In- 
stead of  stating  this  in  such  language  as  one  European 
would  use  to  another,  he  said  to  the  native,  "  As  Chief 
of  the  Fishermen,  you  know  all  the  fishes,  the  small 
as  well  as  the  big,  and  of  course  the  turtle,  according 
to  your  notions  the  king  of  the  whole."  The  Chief 
smiled  assent,  flattering  himself  that  by  the  turtle  he 
himself  was  alluded  to.  To  the  great  delight  of  the 
bystanders,  the  Consul  continued : — "  Familiar  with  all 

*  Commodore  J.  B.  Seymour,  writing  to  the  Lords  Commissioners  of 
the  Admiralty,  in  a  letter  dated,  Auckland,  September  2,  1861,  and  pub- 
lished in  the  '  Correspondence  relating  to  the  Fiji  Islands,'  presented  to 
both  Houses  of  Parliament  by  command  of  her  Majesty,  May,  1862, 
seemed  also  favourably  impressed  with  Mr.  Pritchard's  way  of  dealing 
with  the  natives  : — "  I  cannot  conclude  this  letter,"  he  writes,  "  without 
expressing  the  obligations  I  am  under  to  Mr.  Pritchard,  whose  manner 
with  the  native  chiefs  (being  neither  too  deferential  nor  the  reverse)  seemed 
to  me  to  be  exactly  what  it  should  be.  He  speaks  the  language,  and  is 
evidently  liked  by  all  parties  of  Fijians  ;  and  without  his  ready  assist- 
ance ...  it  would  havebeen  impossible  to  arrive  at  so  speedy  a  settlement 
of  affairs." 


124  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

its  habits,  you  are  aware  that  at  certain  periods  this  king 
goes  on  shore  to  lay  its  eggs,  and  you,  knowing  its  way, 
look  for  its  footprints  on  the  white  coral  sand  of  the 
beaches,  and  suddenly  light  upon  what  is  hatching.''  No 
further  amplification  was  required  to  make  the  chief 
comprehend  the  drift  of  the  story.  The  bystanders  saw 
at  a  glance  that  the  chief  had  put  his  foot  in  it  the 
moment  he  identified  himself  with  the  king  of  the 
fishes,  and  that  his  plots  were  so  clumsily  constructed 
that  anybody  who  knew  him  could  easily  trace  them  out. 
The  public  interview  with  King  Cakobau,  or  Tha- 
kornbau,  was  to  take  place  on  the  27th  of  July,  when 
he  would  once  more  confirm  the  cession  of  his  country 
made  to  Great  Britain  in  1858,  through  Mr.  W.  Prit- 
chard.  In  order  to  place  the  whole  subject  fairly  before 
the  reader,  it  will  be  necessary  to  insert  here  the  ori- 
ginal deed  of  cession: — 

"  Cession  of  Fiji  to  England,  and  Ratification  of  it  l>ij  the  Chief*. 

"  EBENEZEE  THAKOMBAU,  by  the  grace  of  God,  sovereign 
chief  of  Ban  and  its  dependencies,  Vunivalu  of  the  armies  of 
Fiji,  and  Tui  Viti,  etc.,  to  all  and  singular  to  whom  these  pre- 
sents shall  come,  greeting. 

"  Whereas  we,  being  duly,  fully,  and  formally  recognized  in 
our  aforesaid  state,  rank,  and  sovereignty,  by  Great  Britain, 
France,  and  the  United  States  of  America,  respectively ; 

"  And  having  full  and  exclusive  sovereignty  and  domain  in 
and  over  the  islands  and  territories  constituting,  forming,  and 
being  included  in  the  group  known  as  Fiji,  or  Viti ; 

"  And  being  desirous  to  procure  for  our  people  and  subjects 
a  good  and  permanent  form  of  government,  whereby  our  afore- 
said people  and  subjects  shall  enjoy  and  partake  of  the  benefits, 
the  prosperity,  and  the  happiness,  which  it  is  the  duty  and  thu 


DEED    OF    CESSION.  125 

right  of  all  sovereigns  to  seek  and  to  procure  for  their  people 
and  subjects ; 

"  And  being  in  ourselves  unable  to  procure  and  provide 
such  good  and  permanent  government  for  our  aforesaid  people 
and  subjects; 

"  And  being,  moreover,  in  ourselves  unable  to  afford  to  our 
aforesaid  people  and  subjects  the  due  protection  and  shelter 
from  the  violence,  the  oppression,  and  the  tyranny  of  foreign 
Powers,  which  it  is  the  duty  and  the  right  of  all  sovereigns  to 
afford  to  their  people  and  subjects ; 

"  And  being  heavily  indebted  to  the  President  and  Govern- 
ment of  the  United  States  of  America,  the  liquidation  of  which. 
indebtedness  is  pressingly  urged,  with  menaces  of  severe  mea- 
sures against  our  person,  and  our  sovereignty,  and  our  islands 
and  territories  aforesaid,  unless  the  aforesaid  indebtedness  be 
satisfied  within  a  period  so  limited  as  to  render  a  compliance 
with  the  terms  of  the  contract  forced  upon  us  utterly  impos- 
sible within  the  said  period;  this  said  inability  not  arising 
from  lack  of  resources  within  our  dominions,  but  from  the 
inefficacy  of  any  endeavours  on  our  part  under  the  existing 
state  of  affairs  in  our  islands  and  territories  aforesaid,  to  carry 
out  such  measures  as  are  necessary  for,  and  would  result  in, 
the  ultimate  payment  of  the  aforesaid  claims;  and  having 
maturely  deliberated,  well  weighed,  and  fully  considered,  the 
probable  results  of  the  course  and  the  measures  we  now  pro- 
pose ;  and  being  fully  satisfied  of  the  impracticability  by  any 
other  course  and  measures  to  avert  from  our  islands  and  terri- 
tories aforesaid,  and  our  people  and  subjects  aforesaid,  the  evils 
certain  to  follow  the  non-payment  of  the  sum  of  money  de- 
manded from  us  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  of 
America ; 

"  And  being  confident  of  the  immediate  and  progressive 
benefits  that  will  result  from  the  cession  herein  now  made  of 
our  sovereignty,  and  our  islands  and  territories  aforesaid ; 

' '  Now  know  ye,  that  we  do  hereby,  for  and  in  consideration 
of  certain  conditions,  terms,  and  engagements,  hereinafter  set 
forth,  make  over,  transfer,  and  convey,  unto  Victoria,  by  the 


126  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

grace  of  God,  Queen  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain 
and  Ireland,  etc.,  her  heirs  and  successors  for  ever,  the  full 
sovereignty  and  domain  in  and  over  our  aforesaid  islands  and 
territories,  together  with  the  actual  proprietorship  and  personal 
ownership  in  certain  pieces  or  parcels  of  land  as  may  hereafter  be 
mutually  agreed  upon  by  a  commission,  to  consist  of  two  chiefs 
from  Great  Britain  and  two  chiefs  from  Fiji ;  the  said  commis- 
sion to  be  appointed  by  the  representative  of  Great  Britain  in 
Fiji,  who,  in  case  of  dispute,  shall  himself  be  umpire ;  the  said 
pieces  or  parcels  of  land  to  be  especially  devoted  to  government 
purposes,  and  to  be  applied  and  appropriated  in  manner  and 
form  appertaining  to  Crown  lands  in  British  colonies,  or  as  the 
local  government  of  Fiji,  appointed  by  commission  from  the 
aforesaid  Victoria,  Queen  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland  aforesaid,  may  deem  fit,  proper,  and  neces- 
sary, for  the  use  and  requirements  of  the  said  local  govern- 
ment; 

"  Provided  always,  and  the  cession  of  our  sovereignty  and 
our  islands  and  territories  is  on  these  conditions,  terms,  and 
considerations,  that  is  to  say ; 

"  That  the  aforesaid  Victoria,  Queen  of  the  United  Kingdom 
of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  aforesaid,  shall  permit  us  to  retain 
the  title  and  rank  of  Tui  Viti,  in  so  far  as  the  aboriginal  popu- 
lation is  concerned,  and  shall  permit  us  to  be  at  the  head  of  the 
department  for  governing  the  aforesaid  aboriginal  population, 
acting  always  under  the  guidance,  and  by  the  counsels,  of  the 
representative  of  Great  Britain  and  head  of  the  local  govern- 
ment appointed  by  commission  from  the  aforesaid  Victoria, 
Queen  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland 
aforesaid ; 

"  That  the  aforesaid  Victoria,  Queen  of  the  United  Kingdom 
of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  aforesaid,  shall  pay  the  sum  of 
forty-five  thousand  dollars  (§45,000)  unto  the  President  of  the 
United  States  of  America,  being  the  amount  of  the  claim  de- 
manded from  us,  procuring  for  us  and  for  our  people  a  full 
and  absolute  acquittance  from  any  further  liabilities  to  the  said 
President  or  Government  of  the  United  States  of  America 
aforesaid ; 


DEED    OF    CESSION.  127 

"  For  and  in  consideration  of  which  outlay,  not  less  than  two 
hundred  thousand  (200,000)  acres  of  land,  if  required,  shall  be 
made  over,  transferred,  and  conveyed,  in  fee- simple,  unto 
Victoria,  aforesaid  Queen  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland  aforesaid :  the  selection  of  which  said  land 
shall  be  made  by  the  commission  hereinbefore  named  and  re- 
ferred to,  to  reimburse  the  immediate  outlay  required  to  liqui- 
date the  aforesaid  claim  of  the  President  and  Government  of 
the  United  States  of  America  ; 

' '  And  we,  the  aforesaid  Ebenezer  Thakombau,  by  the  grace 
of  God,  sovereign  chief  of  Bau  and  its  dependencies,  Vunivalu 
of  the  armies  of  Fiji  and  Tui  Yiti,  etc.,  do  hereby  make  this 
cession,  transfer,  and  conveyance,  of  our  sovereignty,  and  of 
our  islands  and  territories  aforesaid,  unto  the  aforesaid  Victoria, 
by  the  grace  of  God,  Queen  of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland,  etc.,  aforesaid,  her  heirs  and  successors 
for  ever,  on  behalf  of  ourselves,  our  heirs  and  successors  for 
ever;  on  behalf  of  our  chiefs,  their  heirs  and  successors  for 
ever ;  on  behalf  of  our  people  and  subjects,  their  heirs  and  suc- 
cessors for  ever ;  hereby  renouncing  all  right,  title,  and  claim 
unto  our  sovereignty,  islands,  and  territories  aforesaid,  in  so  far 
as  herein  stated ; 

"  In  witness  whereof,  we  have  hereunto  set  our  hand  and 
affixed  our  seal,  this  twelfth  day  of  October,  in  the  year  of  our 
Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty-eight. 

his  S^\ 

TUI  vm,  x  (L.S.J 

mark.  \^^^y 

"  Signed,  sealed,  and  ratified  by  the  aforesaid  Tui  Viti,  and 
by  him  formally  delivered,  in  our  presence,  unto  William 
Thomas  Pritchard,  Esq.,  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  Consul  in 
and  for  the  aforesaid  Fiji ;  the  aforesaid  Tui  Viti,  at  the  same 
time,  affirming  and  admitting  to  us  personally,  that  he  the 
said  Tui  Viti  fully,  wholly,  perfectly,  and  explicitly,  under- 
stands and  comprehends  the  meaning,  the  extent,  and  the 
purpose  of  the  foregoing  document,  or  deed  of  cession ;  and 
I,  the  undersigned  John  Smith  Fordham,  formerly  of  Sheffield, 


128  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

England,  but  now  temporarily  residing  at  Bau,  Fiji,  aforesaid, 
do  hereby  solemnly  affirm  that  I  myself,  folly,  wholly,  and  ex- 
plicitly translated  the  foregoing  deed  of  cession  unto  the  said 
Tui  Viti,  in  the  presence  of  the  aforesaid  AVilliam  Thomas 
Pritchard,  Esq.,  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  Consul  in  and  for  the 
said  Fiji,  Robert  Sherson  Swanston,  Esq.,  His  Hawaiian  Ma- 
jesty's Consul  in  and  for  Fiji  aforesaid,  and  John  Binner,  for- 
merly of  Leeds,  England,  but  now  resident  at  Levuka,  Island 
of  Ovalau,  Fiji,  aforesaid. 

"  In  witness  whereof,  we  have  each  and  all  set  our  respective 
names  and  seals,  this  twelfth  (12th)  day  of  October,  in  the  year 
of  our  Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty-eight  afore- 
said. 

"JoHN  SMITH  FORDHAM,  Wesleyan  Missionary.  JOHN  BINNER, 
Wesleyan  Mission  Trainer.  EGBERT  S.  SWANSTON,  Hawaiian 
Consul,  Fiji.  WILLIAM  T.  PRITCHARD,  H.  B.  M.  Consul." 

"  We  hereby  acknowledge,  ratify,  and  renew,  the  cession  of 
Fiji  to  Great  Britain,  made  on  the  12th  day  of  October,  1858, 
by  Thakombau.  In  witness  whereof  we  have  hereto  affixed  our 
names  this  14th  day  of  December,  1859. 

"RABICI  ROKO  Tui  DREKETI  (his  x  mark),  of  Rewa, 
JIGJI  NANOVO  (his  x  mark),  of  Nadroga. 
NA  WAGA  LEVU  (his  x  mark),  of  Rakiraki. 
Tui  LEVUKA  (his  x  mark),  of  Ovalau. 
KOROI  COKANAUTO  (his   x  mark),  of  Bau. 
KOROI  TUBUNA  (his  x  mark),  of  Tavua. 
NAIBUKA  KOROIKASA  (his  x  mark),  of  Nakelo. 
RATU  ISIKELE   (signed),  of  Viwa. 
TUKANA  (his  x  mark),  of  Noco. 
TUBAVIVI  (his  x  mark),  of  Rakiraki. 
CURUICA  (his  x  mark),  of  Korotuma,  Ra  Coast. 
SESEBUALALA  (his  x  mark),  of  Korotubu. 
TUDRAU  (his   x  mark),  of  Dravo. 
SAMISONI  (signed),  of  Viwa. 
NA  GALU  (his  x  mark),  of  Namena. 


RATIFICATION    OF    CESSION.  129 

"  KOROIEAIYANUYANU  (his  x  mark),  of  Lasakau. 
DABEA  (his   x  mark),  of  Kuku,  Yiti  Levu. 
Ko  MAI  YUNIVESI  (liis  x  mark),  of  Nakelo. 
PITA  PAULA  (his  x  mark),  of  Viwa. 
Tui  BUA  (his  x  mark),  of  Bua. 
THAKOMBAU  (his  x  mark),  of  Fiji. 

' f  We  hereby  certify  that  the  foregoing  chiefs  have  signed 
this  document  with  a  full  understanding  of  its  meaning,  in  our 
presence,  this  14th  day  of  December,  1859. 

"H-r.  CAMPION,  Commander,  B.N.,  H.M.S.  Elk. 
WILL.  T.  PRITCHARD,  H.B.M.  Consul. 

"  We  hereby  certify  that  we  translated  the  foregoing  docu- 
ment to  the  Chiefs  who  have  signed,  and  that  they  thoroughly 
understand  its  meaning. 

"  W.  COLLIS,  Wesleyan  Mission  Training  Master. 
E.  P.  MARTIN,  Wesleyan  Mission  Printer. 

"  January  16th,  1860,  at  Levuka. 

"KiTOVA  (his  x  mark),  of  Macuata. 
Tui  CAKAU  (his  x  mark),  of  Taviuni. 
Tui  BUA  (his  x  mark),  of  Bua. 

"  Witness  to  marks  : 

' '  JOHN  CAIRNS,  Owner  of  '  Lalla  Lookh/  and 
Merchant  of  Melbourne. 

"Tui  TAVUKI  (his  x  mark). 
Tui  BUKELEVU  (his  x  mark). 
Tui  YAME  (his  x  mark). 
Tui   NAKASALEKA  (his   x   mark),  per  Qarinivalu   of 

Nukuraleka. 

YERI  LEVU  (his  x  mark),  of  Yali. 
EATU  SAVUNOKO  (his  x  mark),  of  Ono  and  Januiana. 
Tui  NACEVA  (his  x  mark). 

Witness  to  Tui  Naceva's  mark,  C.  J.  Baird. 

K 


130  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

"  Translated  by  us,  before  whom  the  above  Chiefs  made  their 
marks,  this  15th  day  of  August,  1860  : 

"  JAMES  S.  H.  ROYCE;   CHAELES  WISE. 

"  I  hereby  ratify  the  above  cession,  Navua,  Sept.  4th,  1860. 

"  KUEUDUADUA,  (his  x  mark) . 

"  Witnesses  to  signature  : 

"  BEETHOLD  SEEMANN,  Ph.D. ;  W.  T.  PEITCHAED,  Consul." 

Precisely  at  eleven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  27th 
of  July,  the  King  fired  a  salute.  When  arriving  at  the 
place  of  meeting,  the  royal  residence,  we  found  the  King 
and  Queen,  both  dressed  in  European  fashion,  the  former 
in  a  blue  uniform,  seated  on  chairs,  of  which  several  had 
been  arranged  in  a  semicircle  for  our  use.  There  were 
present,  besides  Colonel  Smythe,  Mr.  Pritchard  and  my- 
self, Messrs.  Fordham  and  Collis  from  the  mission,  not 
to  mention  the  ladies.  Ratu  Abel,  the  King's  eldest 
son,  a  fine-looking  fellow,  was  absent,  but  sent  for,  and 
the  chiefs  and  principal  landholders  soon  dropped  in,  all 
dressed  in  native  costume.  Mr.  Fordham  interpreted 
for  Colonel  Smythe,  Mr.  Charles  Wise  for  Mr.  Pritchard. 
I  wrote  down  all  at  the  time,  and  the  following,  obtained 
from  both  sources,  may  be  regarded  as  a  faithful  resume 
of  what  was  spoken : — 

"  It  having  been  represented  to  Her  Britannic  Ma- 
jesty," said  Colonel  Smythe,  addressing  King  Cakobau, 
"  that  the  King  and  Chiefs  of  Fiji  are  disposed  to 
become  British  subjects,  her  Majesty  has  directed  an 
inquiry  to  be  made  into  the  matter,  and  hear  what  King 
and  Chiefs  have  to  say  on  the  subject,  in  order  that  it 
may  be  reported  to  her." 


OFFICIAL   MEETING    AT   BAU.  131 

The  King  replied :  "  The  arrangement  respecting  the 
cession  entered  into  with  Mr.  Consul  Pritchard  is  still 
in  full  force,  and  shall  not  be  disturbed  by  any  foreign 
Power." 

"  Great  Britain,"  continued  Colonel  Smythe,  "  pro- 
duces many  things  that  Fiji  does  not,  and  vice  versa,  so 
that  by  an  exchange  of  products  the  two  countries  would 
be  mutually  benefited.  I  refer  especially  to  cotton, 
which  grows  luxuriantly  in  Fiji,  and  is  valuable  in 
England." 

The  King  replied :  "I  am  fully  aware  of  it ;  and  in 
consequence  of  what  Mr.  Consul  Pritchard  told  me  at 
the  interview7  at  Levuka,  about  the  desirableness  of  cul- 
tivating this  article,  I  have  directed  it  to  be  planted,  and 
my  commands  have  been  carried  out  to  some  extent." 

"  In  cedin'g  the  country,"  Colonel  Smythe  resumed, 
"  every  man  will  retain  his  own  property  and  land,  and 
everybody  will  be  protected,  so  that  a  stop  will  be  put  to 
the  fearful  feuds  that  have  decimated  the  population." 

The  King  rejoined:  "There  may  be  people  in  the 
group  who  at  present  cannot  fully  appreciate  that  idea ; 
but  it  is  somewhat  like  Christianity,  which,  though  a 
blessing,  is  looked  upon  with  prejudiced  eyes  by  many 
not  familiar  with  its  beneficial  tendency." 

When  the  chiefs  and  landholders  were  asked  whether 
they  had  any  observation  to  make,  they  remained  mute, 
and  at  the  conclusion  of  the  whole  raised  shouts  of 
approval.  All  then  retired,  and  nothing  more  was  said 
except  what  has  been  stated  in  substance  above.  Colo- 
nel Smythe  states,  in  one  of  his  official  communications, 
as  printed  in  the  Blue-books,  that  the  King  "  could  not 

K  2 


132  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

convey  to  Her  Majesty  200,000  acres  of  land  as  con- 
sideration for  the  payment  of  these  claims  for  him,  as 
he  does  not  possess  them,  nor  does  he  acknowledge  to 
have  offered  more  than  his  consent  that  lands  to  this 
extent  might  be  acquired  by  Her  Majesty's  Government 
for  public  purposes  in  Fiji."  Nothing  to  this  effect  was 
broached  during  the  official  interview  ;  on  the  contrary, 
the  King  distinctly  said,  that  "  the  arrangement  respect- 
ing the  cession  entered  into  with  Mr.  Consul  Pritchard 
is  still  in  full  force."  Nor  was  the  Consul  aware  that 
Colonel  Smythe  had  on  any  other  occasion  elicited  in- 
formation from  the  King  that  could  be  thus  construed.  It 
was  perfectly  well  understood  by  all  the  leading  chiefs  that 
each  and  all  would  have  to  make  over  a  certain  portion 
of  land,  in  payment  of  the  debt  fastened  upon  them  by 
the  American  Government ;  and  Bau,  and  King  Cako- 
bau  as  its  representative,  would  have  borne  his  share  to 
make  up  the  200,000  acres.  The  very  fact  that  all  the 
chiefs,  without  any  exception,  and  even  those  living  in 
the  remotest  districts,  ratified  the  deed  of  cession,  proves 
that  King  Cakobau  was  backed  by  all  the  influence  of 
his  country,  and  had  a  perfect  right  to  cede  the  sove- 
reignty of  the  islands.* 

*  In  order  to  place  this  fact  beyond  dispute,  I  have  printed  the  names 
of  all  those  chiefs  who  ratified  the  deed  of  cession, — this  ratification  being 
a  document  omitted  in  the  Blue-book  on  Fiji.  Some  information  as  to 
the  real  position  of  Bau  in  Fiji  will  be  found  at  pp.  74-80  of  the  present 
work. 


133 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

EXCURSIONS  TO  KOROIVAU  AND  NAMAEA. — DEPARTUEE  FEOM  BAU. — PAS- 
SAGE THROUGH  THE  GEEAT  EIVEE  OF  VITI  LEVU. — BUEETU. — APOSTATE 
CHBISTIANS. — EEWA. — ARRIVAL  AT  TAVUKI,  ZADAVU. — WHALE  SHIPS. — 
ATTEMPT  TO  ASCEND  BUKE  LEVU. — THE  ISTHMUS  OF  KADAVU. — GA  LOA 
OR  BLACK  DUCK  BAY. — DEPARTURE  FOR  NAVUA. 

I  TOOK  advantage  of  our  stay  at  Ban,  which  lasted  till 
the  2nd  of  August,  to  pay  several  visits  to  Namara, 
Koroivau,  and  several  other  parts  of  Viti  Levu.  There 
was  a  fine  pyramidal  temple  at  Namara,  no  longer  used 
for  religious  purposes,  and  near  it  was  standing  an  iso- 
lated Fan-palm  (Pritchardia  Pacifica,  Seem,  et  Wendl.)y 
both  objects  peculiarly  Fijian.  The  natives  here  were 
extremely  friendly,  and  carried  us  through  bogs  and 
mud  when  occasion  required.  At  first,  the  children,  on 
seeing  our  white  faces,  were  much  frightened,  and  some 
boys  and  girls  from  twelve  to  fourteen  years  old  would 
run  for  their  lives  when  we  attempted  to  get  near  them 
or  even  looked  hard  at  them.  However,  they  soon  got 
reconciled  to  our  colour,  or  rather  want  of  colour,  and 
a  few  jew's-harps  and  beads,  judiciously  distributed, 
would  make  them  as  happy  as  kings  and  quite  attached 
to  us.  The  women  were  busy  grating  the  seeds  of  the 
Ivi  (Inocarpus  edulis,  Forst),  now  ripe,  and  made  into 
bread.  The  hill-sides  were  planted  with  a  great  number 


134  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

of  pine-apples  and  cassava-root,  and  around  nearly  all 
the  yam,  banana,  and  sweet-potato  patches  I  observed 
the  cotton-trees,  which  had  been  planted  by  order  of  the 
King  and  at  Mr.  Pritchard's  instigation.  The  village  of 
Koroivau  was  a  complete  cotton  garden ;  the  trees  were 
twelve  to  fourteen  feet  high,  and  formed  regular  ave- 
nues in  the  streets.  In  my  rambles  in  the  forest  I  met 
with  some  natives  who  were  clearing  pieces  of  ground  for 
cultivation.  They  were  extremely  friendly,  and  invited 
me  to  partake  of  some  wild  yams  ("Tivoli")  which  they 
had  just  been  roasting  in  the  hot  ashes.  I  gladly  availed 
myself  of  their  offer,  and  found  the  roots  like  cultivated 
yams,  and  quite  as  good  in  taste.  Though  no  smoker 
myself,  I  carried  a  pipe  and  tobacco,  which  passed  from 
mouth  to  mouth,  every  one  having  a  few  puffs  and  then 
passing  it  on  to  his  neighbour;  and  when  I  intimated 
to  them  that  the  pipe  was  theirs,  and  presented  an  ad- 
ditional stick  of  American  tobacco,  they  were  highly 
pleased,  and  hoped  that  I  would  soon  come  again  to 
"  gather  leaves."  In  the  swampy  parts  of  the  forest  I 
found  a  new  Aroideous  plant,  the  Viu  kana  (Cyrto- 
sperma  edulis,  Schott)  under  cultivation.  Like  the  Taro, 
or  Dalo,  as  it  is  here  termed,  which  it  somewhat  re- 
sembles, its  root  is  edible,  and  very  much  used. 

We  left  Bau  on  the  2nd  of  August,  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, our  party  consisting  of  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Smythe,  Mr. 
and  Miss  Pritchard,  Mr.  Collis  and  myself,  all  embarked 
in  two  boats  belonging  to  the  mission,  and  proceeding 
to  Rewa  by  way  of  the  river  and  the  canal,  a  route, 
it  will  be  remembered,  which  Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself 
took  on  a  former  occasion.  After  two  or  three  days'  rain 


APOSTATE    CHRISTIANS.  135 

and  gale,  there  was  a  temporary  lull  in  the  weather,  and 
our  trip  was  altogether  a  pleasant  one.  About  noon  we 
halted  at  Buretu,  a  fortified  town,  which  has  never  been 
taken,  and  is  therefore  regarded  as  impregnable.  If  it 
is  so,  that  must  be  owing  entirely  to  the  bravery  of  its 
inhabitants,  for  the  low  walls  with  which  it  was  sur- 
rounded did  not  impress  us  with  any  great  strength. 
Some  years  ago  a  good  number  of  the  Buretu  people 
embraced  Christianity,  but  when  at  a  subsequent  date 
the  town  rebelled  against  Bau,  they  became  apostates, 
nor  did  the  restoration  of  peace  make  them  relinquish 
their  pagan  religion,  and  they  had  at  the  time  of  our 
visit,  one  of  the  finest  temples  in  the  whole  group. 
These  and  similar  fluctuations  must  be  expected  in  all 
attempts  to  introduce  a  new  faith,  but  from  which  Fiji 
has  been  more  free  than  many  other  countries  similarly 
operated  upon.  Wherever  Christianity  was  preached  in 
the  group  it  took  a  quick  and  firm  hold,  and  the  ultimate 
conversion  of  the  whole  population  is  merely  a  matter 
of  time  and  £.  s.  d.  If  the  Wesleyan  Society  had 
more  funds  at  its  disposal,  so  as  to  be  able  to  send  out  a 
greater  number  of  efficient  teachers,  a  very  few  years 
would  see  the  whole  of  Fiji  christianized,  as  all  the 
real  difficulties  formerly  in  the  way  of  the  mission  have 
now  been  removed.  On  my  representing  the  case  in  this 
light,  his  Majesty  the  King  of  Hanover  was  graciously 
pleased  to  subscribe  as  his  first  gift,  £100,  towards  so 
desirable  an  object,  at  the  same  time  expressing  his  ad- 
miration for  the  labours  of  individual  missionaries  I 
named.  If  the  Fijis  should  be  taken  by  any  European 
government,  the  prosperity  of  the  country  would  best  be 


136  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

advanced  by  placing  ample  funds  at  the  disposal  of  the 
Protestant  missionaries  for  the  christianization  of  the 
natives,  for  which  the  machinery  as  now  worked  by  the 
Wesleyans  would  offer  the  most  efficient  and  readiest 
means.  The  Catholics  would  probably  effect  the  christian- 
izing part  with  a  lesser  outlay,  but  it  must  not  be  forgot- 
ten that  one  of  the  great  advantages  of  Protestant  mis- 
sions is,  that  they  civilize  as  well  as  christianize,  whilst 
the  Catholic  priests,  having  no  home,  no  family  life  to 
exhibit  for  imitation,  simply  christianize. 

We  reached  Rewa,  or  rather  Mataisuva,  the  mission 
station,  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  were 
scarcely  sheltered  in  safety,  Colonel  Smythe  and  his  wife 
with  Mr.  Waterhouse,  the  chairman  of  the  Fijian  dis- 
trict of  the  Wesleyan  mission,  Mr.  Pritchard  and  all  the 
rest  of  us,  with  Mr.  Moore,  than  a  strong  south-east- 
erly gale,  accompanied  a  heavy  rain,  commenced,  which 
lasted  for  six  days.  Our  vessels  had  been  ordered  to 
round  the  south-east  extremity  of  Viti  Levu,  and  call 
for  us  at  Rewa ;  but  this  bad  weather  had  baffled  all 
their  attempts,  and  the  '  Paul  Jones '  thought  it  best  to 
endeavour  to  come  through  the  canal,  which  connects 
the  two  branches  of  the  great  river  of  Viti  Levu, — an 
attempt  which  proved  quite  successful. 

At  Rewa,  a  meeting  of  all  the  chiefs  and  landholders 
was  held,  and  the  same  proceedings  gone  through  as 
at  Bau.  All  expressed  themselves  in  favour  of  ceding 
their  country  to  England  in  the  manner  already  detailed. 
Amongst  those  assembled  was  a  son,  still  a  boy,  of 
Cakonauto,  better  known  amongst  the  whites  as  Philips, 
a  chief  friendly  to  civilization  and  the  whites.  During 


AMERICAN   WHALE-SHIPS.  137 

his  lifetime,  he  had  accumulated  a  great  number  of 
European  and  American  manufactures,  curious  clocks, 
musical  boxes,  etc.,  but  on  inquiry  I  found  that  all 
these  things  had  become  scattered.  His  son  would 
ultimately  succeed  to  the  chieftainship,  and  was  made  a 
great  deal  of  by  his  people.  At  present  the  government 
was  in  other  hands.  He  was  a  comely-looking  youth, 
of  a  much  lighter  complexion  than  the  rest  of  his 
countrymen. 

The  '  Pegasus '  being  again  late,  Mr.  Prit chard  and  I 
started  for  Kadavu  (Kandavu),  the  largest  of  the  south- 
ernmost islands  of  the  group.  Leaving  Eewa  road  on 
the  13th  of  August  at  six  P.M.,  we  made  Tavuki  Bay, 
on  the  northern  side  of  the  island,  at  seven  o'clock  on 
the  following  morning,  where  we  took  up  our  quarters 
under  the  hospitable  roof  of  Mr.  Eoyce,  one  of  the  resi- 
dent missionaries.  In  consequence  of  the  strong  south- 
easterly gale,  the  temperature  was  very  agreeable,  and 
during  the  previous  week  Mr.  Royce  observed  the  ther- 
mometer to  go  down  to  62°  Fahrenheit,  the  lowest  ever 
observed  in  the  group. 

There  were  three  American  whaleships  in  the  bay, 
taking  in  wood,  water,  and  fresh  provisions,  commanded 
by  Captain  James  Nicols,  Charles  Nicols,  and  Thomas 
Sulivan.  They  had  been  nearly  all  their  lives  in  the 
South  Sea  whaling  trade,  and  were  very  well  known  to 
Mr.  Pritchard  when  he  was  at  Samoa.  Their  business 
had  evidently  been  a  lucrative  one,  and  this  was  to  be 
one  of  their  last,  if  not  their  last  voyage.  They  had 
hitherto  taken  in  their  supplies  at  Samoa  or  Tonga, 
but  the  natives  of  those  two  groups  had  become  so  ex- 


138  A -MISSION   TO    VITI. 

orbitant  in  their  charges  as  to  render  it  imperative  to 
look  for  cheaper  provision  markets.  Fiji  had  answered 
their  purpose  much  better,  and  they  predicted  the  arrival 
of  a  regular  whaling  fleet  as  soon  as  the  great  facilities 
here  offered  should  have  become  more  generally  known 
amongst  the  trade.  Having  their  families  with  them, 
they  gave  us  several  pressing  invitations  to  come  on 
board,  which  the  Consul,  myself,  and  all  the  mission- 
aries gladly  accepted.  These  vessels  enjoyed  the  repu- 
tation of  being  patterns  of  what  whaleships  should  be  ; 
and  I  must  record  my  surprise  at  the  scrupulous  neat- 
ness, cleanliness,  and  even  elegance  prevailing.  The 
Captain's  cabins  were  fitted  up  and  kept  better  than  I 
have  ever  seen  them  in  any  vessel. 

When  our  friends  heard  that  we  were  anxious  to 
ascend  Buke  Levu,  the  great  mountain  situated  at  the 
western  extremity  of  Kadavu,  they  offered  us  one  of 
their  whale-boats  for  that  purpose;  and  one  of  their 
mates,  a  skilful  steerer,  volunteered  to  pilot  us  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountain.  Mr.  Frit  chard  and  I  left  Tavuki 
13th  of  August  early  in  the  morning.  It  was  quite 
fine  when  we  started,  but  after  an  hour's  pull,  a  gale 
sprang  up,  and  after  being  nearly  swamped  in  going 
through  a  narrow  passage  of  a  reef,  where  the  water 
was  breaking,  we  were  compelled  to  postpone  our  at- 
tempt to  a  more  favourable  time,  and  land  at  Yawe,  a 
town  famous  in  Fiji  for  its  very  large  specimens  of 
pottery,  made  without  a  wheel,  and  taking  as  our 
crockery  does,  its  name  from  the  place  of  manufacture. 
We  hoped  that  it  might  clear  up  during  the  night,  to 
allow  us  to  proceed  in  the  morning ;  but  the  next  day 


TONGUESE   INTRIGUES.  139 

the  rain  was  more  heavy  than  it  had  been  even  during 
the  previous  one.  and  we  had  no  option  but  to  return 
to  Tavuki.  During  the  night  our  interpreter  had  heard 
that  a  circular  letter  had  been  received  from  the  Ton- 
guese  chief  Maafu,  advising  his  countrymen  how  to  act, 
so  that  the  policy  of  England  with  regard  to  the  cession 
of  Fiji  might  be  frustrated,  and  the  country  ultimately 
fall  into  the  hands  of  Tonga ;  and  also  that  a  similar 
letter  had  been  sent  to  Bega  (Mbenga).  The  Tonguese 
teachers  in  the  pay  of  the  Wesley  an  Society  were  made 
the  agents  for  diffusing  the  burden  of  the  message. 
When  we  got  back  to  Tavuki  Mr.  Pritchard  communi- 
cated what  we  had  heard  to  Mr.  Koyce,  and  he  sent  for 
one  of  the  leading  Tonguese  teachers,  who  made  no 
secret  of  these  machinations,  and  promised  to  procure 
the  letter  received  in  Kadavu.  Ere  two  hours  had 
elapsed  he  succeeded,  and  it  is  now  in  the  Consulate. 
Mr.  Royce  pointed  out  the  impropriety  of  teachers  of 
the  Christian  religion  allowing  themselves  to  be  used 
as  tools  in  miserable  political  intrigues;  but  the  Ton- 
guese said  that,  however  glad  to  be  excused,  they  could 
not  help  themselves,  and  had  to  do  what  their  chiefs 
told  them.  The  doings  of  the  Tonguese  form  an  impor- 
tant chapter  in  the  history  of  the  Fijis,  and  will  be 
treated  under  a  separate  heading,  and  I  merely  mention 
here  this  fact,  because  it  has  been  disputed  that  the 
teachers  allowed  themselves  to  be  used  as  political 
agents. 

Tavuki,  from  being  made  the  centre  of  the  mission  of 
the  district,  must  be  regarded  as  the  capital  of  Kadavu, 
and  is  situated  in  latitude  19°  3'  9"  south,  longitude 


140  A   MISSION   TO    V1TI. 

178°  6'  23"  east,  according  to  observation  taken  by  Mr. 
Sedmond,  master  of  H.M.S.  Harrier,  17,  Captain  Sir 
Malcolm  McGregor.  Tavuki  is  an  open  bay  on  the 
northern  coast,  with  no  deep  water  close  to  the  shore, 
and  at  ebb  tide  one  has  to  walk  about  half  a  mile 
over  the  coral  reef  before  being  able  to  reach  the  boats. 
The  missionaries  had  endeavoured  to  make  a  pier,  on 
which  those  whom  the  chiefs  would  wish  to  punish  for 
any  petty  offences  were  made  to  work ;  but  at  the 
time  of  our  visit  little  progress  had  been  made,  and  one 
could  almost  have  wished  that  a  greater  number  of 
petty  offences  had  been  committed. 

The  island  of  Kadavu,  of  which  so  little  is  known, 
and  no  accurate  hydrographical  survey  exists,  is  highly 
cultivated,  notwithstanding  its  being  so  hilly,  and  rising 
on  its  western  extremity  four  thousand  feet  high.  A 
strong  belief  has  sprung  up  that  there  must  be  gold, 
and  old  gold-diggers  from  the  Australian  colonies,  judg- 
ing from  the  formation  of  the  quartz  rocks,  maintain 
that  the  island  is  auriferous.  Quite  recently  Kadavu 
has  been  examined  by  two  miners  from  Melbourne, 
who  certainly  did  find  a  quartz  reef,  but  not  the  pre- 
cious metal  they  were  in  search  of.  The  fact  of  the 
matter  is,  that  neither  of  these  parties  had  the  means 
to  provide  themselves  with  proper  tools  for  a  thorough 
and  final  exploration.  The  discovery  of  gold  has  ac- 
tually been  reported  from  Vanua  Levu.  The  popula- 
tion of  Kadavu,  said  to  number  about  ten  thousand,  is 
a  mixture  between  the  Fijian  and  Tonguese  races,  all 
of  whom,  with  the  exception  of  seven  individuals,  have 
nominally  become  Christians.  The  island  is  twenty- 


ISTHMUS    OF   YARABALE.  141 

four  miles  long,  stretching  from  east  to  west,  and  being 
contracted  about  the  centre  into  the  narrow  isthmus  of 
Yarabali,  literally  "  Haul-across,"  so  named  from  the  fact 
of  canoes  and  boats  being  dragged  across  it,  in  order  to 
save  the  trouble  and  escape  the  danger  of  a  long  pas- 
sage around  the  east  and  west  point.  Colonel  Smythe 
and  myself,  in  company  with  Mr.  Royce,  crossed  it  on 
the  16th  of  August,  and  found  the  northern  portion  of 
the  isthmus  a  fine  avenue  of  cocoa-nut  palms,  the  south- 
ern more  or  less  a  mangrove  swamp.  A  similar  short 
cut  for  canoes  is  effected  at  Naceva  Bay  in  Vanua  Levu. 
On  both  sides  of  Yarabali  there  is  a  bay ;  the  northern, 
Na  Malata,  is  shallow  and  open ;  the  southern,  Ga  loa, 
has  deep  water,  good  anchorage,  and  three  passages 
through  the  reef  outside,  which  acts  as  a  natural  break- 
water. We  found  its  shores  full  of  pumice-stone,  drifted 
here  from  the  Tongan  volcanoes.  The  different  explor- 
ing expeditions  having  quite  overlooked  this  fine  bay, 
Mr.  Pritchard  made  a  rough  survey  in  1858,  it  being  not 
improbable  that  if  the  much  discussed  communication 
between  Sydney  and  Western  America — the  shortest 
route  to  England — should  be  established  vid  Fiji,  steam- 
ers would  prefer  calling  at  this  southernmost  bay,  with 
plenty  of  sea-room  outside,  to  running  the  risk  of  en- 
tering the  labyrinth  of  rocks,  shoals,  and  reefs,  which 
render  the  navigation  of  the  central  parts  of  the  group, 
in  the  absence  of  a  complete  chart,  a  rather  difficult 
task. 

Ga  loa,  or  Black  Duck  Bay,  derives  its  name  from  the 
largest  of  three  islands  situated  in  it.  Ga  loa  island  is 
two  hundred  feet  high,  about  a  mile  long,  and  half  a 


142  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

mile  across,  and  full  of  fruit-trees.  It  was  pointed  out 
as  the  spot  where,  only  a  twelvemonth  ago,  a  man  was 
baked  and  eaten.  Cannibalism  in  Fiji  will  soon  num- 
ber amongst  the  things  that  have  been.  The  influence 
of  all  the  whites  residing  in  or  visiting  the  group  is 
steadily  directed  towards  its  extinction,  and  though  a 
person  who  ought  to  have  had  more  charity  has  asserted 
in  print  that  he  had  been  told  some  of  the  white  resi- 
dents were  habitual  partakers  of  human  flesh,  I  think, 
for  the  honour  of  our  race,  such  second-hand  stories 
ought  to  be  indignantly  rejected.  Antiquaries  know 
that  cannibalism  of  a  certain  form  lingered  in  Europe 
long  after  the  Reformation ;  that  mummies,  said  to  be 
Egyptian,  were  extensively  used  medicinally,  and  that 
only  after  it  was  found  out  patients  had  not  partaken 
of  the  contemporaries  of  Thothmes  I.  or  Eameses  the 
Great,  but  of  bituminized  portions  of  their  own  fellow- 
countrymen,  this  precious  quack  medicine  fell  into  abso- 
lute disuse.  Even  in  our  own  times  we  may  still  meet 
in  certain  parts  of  Europe  people  doing  what  has  been 
recorded  with  horror  of  the  Fijians — that  of  drinking 
the  living  blood  of  man ;  but  mark !  with  this  essential 
difference,  that  the  former,  watching  their  opportunities 
at  public  executions,  do  it  in  hopes  of  thereby  curing 
fits  of  epilepsy,  whilst  the  latter  did  it  to  gratify  re- 
venge and  exult  over  fallen  enemies.  As  for  a  Euro- 
pean, even  of  the  lowest  grade,  coolly  sitting  down  to  a 
regular  cannibal  feast,  the  idea  is  too  preposterous  to 
have  ever  been  allowed  to  disgrace  the  pages  of  a  mo- 
dern publication. 

Taudromu,  another  of  the  islands  of  Ga  loa   Bay, 


A   FIJIAN   EBL-KING.  143 

scarcely  half  a  mile  round,  now  belongs  to  an  American 
Indian  of  real  flesh  and  blood ;  and  in  former  times  was 
inhabited  by  Eatu-va-caki,  a  mighty  spirit,  who,  with 
his  £ons,  all  like  their  father,  of  prepossessing  appear- 
ance, and  bearing  poetical  names,*  seem  to  have  played 
the  same  part  in  Fiji  as  the  Erl-King  and  his  daughters 
did  in  Europe.  Many  are  the  stories  told  of  their  deeds 
and  adventures.  Generally  they  used  to  go  out  together, 
but  if  Eatu-va-caki  was  disinclined,  the  boys,  who,  young 
rascals!  had  as  keen  an  appreciation  of  a  pretty  face 
and  a  good  figure  as  their  old  rake  of  a  father,  would 
rove  about  by  themselves,  principally  moving  about  in 
heavy  squalls  and  gales;  hence  their  invisible  canoe 
was  termed  "  Loaloa ;"  and  if,  soon  after  stormy  weather, 
any  fine  young  girls  suddenly  died,  it  was  proverbially 
said  that  Eatu-va-caki  and  his  sons  had  carried  off 
their  souls.  However,  poetical  justice  was  done  at  last. 
One  day,  when  all  were  at  Yanuca,  near  Bega,  their 
presence,  notwithstanding  their  having  assumed  human 
shape,  was  discovered  by  the  local  god,  wrho  rightly 
guessed  their  intentions.  When  they  were  performing 
a  dance,  and  all  the  girls  were  admiringly  watching  their 
graceful  movements,  the  local  god  caused  his  priest  to 
prepare  a  certain  mixture,  which,  on  being  sprinkled 
over  the  visitors,  made  their  arms,  legs,  and  other  parts 
of  their  bodies  assume  such  ridiculous  shapes,  that  they 
became  the  laughing-stock  of  all,  and  could  never  think 
of  again  undertaking  similar  expeditions. 

*.  The  sons  were  called,  Teketeke-ni-masi,  because  he,  the  eldest,  wore 
a  Breath  of  flowers  over  his  white  tapa,  Tawake-i-tamana,  Reaugaga,  and 
the  youngest  Valu-qaiaki  (or  rising  moon). 


144  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

The  meeting  with  the  chiefs  and  principal  landholders 
of  Kadavu  was  held  at  Tavuki,  and  passed  off  as  satis- 
factorily as  that  at  Ban  and  Rewra,  the  natives  expressing 
their  eagerness  to  become  British  subjects.  We  pur- 
chased from  the  natives  a  good  many  curiosities,  such  as 
clubs,  fans,  spears,  etc.,  for  our  ethnological  collections, 
some  of  which  were  remarkable  specimens  of  carving, 
and  evidently  very  old.  The  great  size  and  heaviness  of 
these  things  made  them  very  inconvenient  objects  to 
carry  and  stow  away  on  board,  crammed  as  we  were  for 
space.  One  afternoon  all  the  children  of  the  town  and 
neighbourhood,  wishing  to  show  their  goodwill,  came 
in  full  procession,  and  singing,  up  to  the  mission-house, 
each  carrying  a  present.  Some  had  bundles  of  sugar- 
cane, some  bunches  of  taro,  some  struggled  under  the 
weight  of  an  enormous  yam.  All  the  presents  were 
piled  in  a  heap  at  our  feet,  and  it  was  intimated  that 
they  were  meant  for  the  special  gratification  of  Mrs. 
Smythe.  Then  all  the  children  sat  down  in  rows  on  the 
ground,  and  sang  a  number  of  songs,  accompanied  by 
grotesque  gestures,  and  movements  of  body  and  arms, 
but  at  the  same  time  not  without  meaning.  One  of 
these  songs,  or  "  mekes,"  described  the  horror  of  the 
natives  when  seeing  for  the  first  time  a  horse  and  a 
man  on  its  back, — how  they  fled  in  wild  terror,  and  took 
refuge  on  high  rocks  and  trees,  so  that  the  monster 
might  not  hurt  them. 

Both  '  Pegasus '  and  '  Paul  Jones  '  left  Tavuki  Bay 
on  the  morning  of  the  17th  of  August,  and  after  a  few 
hours'  sail  arrived  at  Qalira,  where  we  hoped  to  ascend 
Buke  Levu,  but  the  sea  was  so  high  that  we  found  it 


A   DISAPPOINTMENT.  145 

impossible  to  land.  We  hoped  for  better  luck  at  Nasau, 
which  we  reached  late  at  night,  and  were  in  full  hopes 
of  gaining  the  top  of  the  fine  mountain,  constantly  ex- 
hibiting to  us  its  dome-like  summit.  The  next  morning, 
however,  was  so  very  rainy,  that  we  had  to  give  up  all 
hopes  of  accomplishing  our  object  that  day;  and  it  was 
therefore  resolved  to  postpone  our  ascent,  and  cross  over 
to  Viti  Levu,  in  order  to  pay  a  visit  to  Kuruduadua,  for 
the  exploration  of  "whose  dominions  Mr.  Pritchard  and  I 
had  already  paved  the  way. 


146 


CHAPTER  IX. 

DEPASTURE  FROM  KADAVU. — ARRIVAL  AT  NAVUi. — A  COURT  OF  JUSTICE. 
STARTING  FOR  THE  INTERIOR. THE  NAVUA  RIVER. — ITS  FINE  SCE- 
NERY.  RAPIDS. A  CANOE  UPSET. — TOWN  OF  NAGADI. — HOSPITABLE 

RECEPTION. — SOROMATO. KIDNAPPING. — FAMILY     PRAYERS. — HEATHEN 

TEMPLE. — A  LARGE  SNAKE  TO  BE  COOKED. — MARCH  ACROSS  THE  COUN- 
TRY.— VUNIWAIVUTUKU. — A  DIFFICULT  ROAD. — A  PURSE  LOST.  —  NO 
THIEVES. — ARRIVAL  AT  NAMOSI. — DANFORD's  ESTABLISHMENT.  —  HIS 
USEFULNESS  AS  A  PIONEER. 

LEAVING  Kadavu  on  Saturday  the  18th  of  August,  at 
noon,  our  schooner  cast  anchor  off  Navua  early  next 
morning,  where  we  were  hospitably  received  by  Kuru- 
duadua,  the  chief  of  the  district.  Danford,  the  English- 
man, whose  history  has  already  been  told,  was  also  there 
to  conduct  us  to  his  place  of  residence  at  Namosi,  as 
had  been  previously  arranged.  We  took  up  our  quar- 
ters in  the  new  Strangers'  House  (Buri  ni  so),  where 
there  was  ample  room  to  hang  up  mosquito  curtains 
and  open  our  luggage.  There  had  been  a  quarrel  be- 
tween an  Englishman  and  a  Tonguese,  both  residing  at 
Taguru,  in  Kuruduadua's  dominion.  The  Englishman 
had  allowed  his  pigs  to  grub  the  fields  belonging  to  the 
Tonguese,  and  the  latter,  after  repeatedly  remonstrating 
without  effect,  had  thought  it  advisable  to  enlighten  the 
Englishman  by  setting  fire  to  his  shed.  Both  parties 
appealed  to  the  British  Consul  for  justice,  and,  with 


A    COURT   OF   JUSTICE.  147 

Kuruduadua's  approval,  the  case  was  gone  into  as  it 
would  before  any  magistrate  in  England,  witnesses  being 
called  to  establish  the  truth  of  the  various  statements 
advanced.  The  result  was,  that  the  Englishman  was  told 
that,  according  to  Fijian  customs,  the  pigs,  not  the  fields, 
were  fenced  in,  and  that  he  had  no  right  to  allow  his 
animals  to  destroy  neighbours'  property;  whilst  his 
neighbour,  for  taking  the  law  in  his  own  hand,  was 
ordered  to  erect,  in  a  specified  number  of  days,  a  new 
shed,  in  every  way  equal  to  the  one  destroyed.  Kuru- 
duadua  wras  highly  pleased  with  the  way  in  which  the 
whole  had  been  managed  ;  and  though  it  was  late  when 
the  case  was  decided,  he  sent  for  several  of  the  leading 
men  to  give  them  an  account  of  it,  and  they  sat  up  the 
greater  part  of  the  night  discussing  the  fairness  of  the 
proceedings. 

Having  made  arrangements  with  Kuruduadua  for 
proceeding  into  the  interior  on  our  previous  visit,  we 
were  able  to  start  on  the  morning  of  the  21st  of  Au- 
gust. The  travelling  party  consisted  of  Colonel  Smythe, 
Mr.  Pritchard,  the  Rev.  J.  Waterhouse,  Danford,  Chief 
Kuruduadua,  and  a  host  of  followers,  all  embarked  in 
canoes.  The  weather,  which,  during  the  previous  week, 
had  been  rainy,  became  very  fine  at  starting.  The  boat 
in  wilich  Mr.  Pritchard,  Danford,  and  myself  W7ere 
seated,  was  always  ahead,  and  all  attempts  made  by  the 
others  to  beat  us  proved  failures.  At  one  time  we  had 
a  most  exciting  race,  the  rival  canoes  putting  forth  all 
their  strength,  but  to  no  avail :  we  kept  ahead  in  spite 
of  all  their  efforts. 

Danford  and  the  natives  were  quite  in  their  element, 

L  -2 


148  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

and  indefatigable  in  offering  explanation.  I  thought  I 
could  not  do  better  than  take  advantage  of  their  local 
knowledge  and  dot  down  all  I  heard,  saw,  and  had 
pointed  out.  "  Look  to  the  right,"  cried  one,  "  there  is 
Tamana,  with  a  large  temple  at  the  top."  "  Look  to 
the  left,"  interpolated  another,  "  if  you  wish  to  see  Solu, 
a  small  town,  just  disappearing  betwen  those  banana 
plantations.  You  have  already  lost  it.  Those  bamboos, 
high  reeds,  and  tall  treeferns,  have  shut  it  out.  Do  you 
see  the  wild  plantain  1  There  !  there  it  is !  You  can 
always  know  it  from  others  by  its  having  erect  orange- 
coloured  branches  instead  of  nodding  ones,  like  the  cul- 
tivated species.  One  more  sago-palm  in  that  swamp, 
probably  the  last,  as  we  ascend  the  river ;  it  does  not 
like  rocks,  and  here,  you  see,  they  begin.  This  is  the 
first  rapid :  no  danger,  all  the  canoes  pass  over  safely. 
Three  hawks  chasing  a  pigeon !  Now  for  bold  scenery  ! 
The  rocks  are  at  least  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high, 
full  of  fine  timber  at  the  top.  And  those  splendid 
waterfalls !  Here  we  are  at  Kuburinasaumuri ;  cliffs  on 
both  sides,  and  the  river  full  of  fresh-water  sharks,  of 
which  the  chief  killed  a  very  large  one  for  biting  his 
brother.  This  is  Na  Savu  drau — the  hundred  waterfalls. 
In  the  rainy  season  that  number  is  quite  correct ;  even 
now,  if  you  count  all  those  little  streaks  of  silver  pour- 
ing over  the  cliffs,  you  will  find  it  not  far  short.  On 
the  right  is  the  Wai-ni-kavika  (the  river  of  the  Malay 
apples),  where  a  mighty  spirit  dwells." 

And  thus  they  went  on  talking  and  pointing  out  all 
they  considered  interesting  or  worth  looking  at.  We 
had  gradually  exchanged  the  low,  flat  land  of  the  coast 


PASSING   THE    KAPIDS.  149 

for  bold  river  scenery,  and  poled  and  paddled  against  a 
strong  current.  Judging  from  the  water-mark  observ- 
able on  rocks  and  trees,  the  Navua,  which  flows  almost 
due  south,  must  be  navigable  for  large  boats  during  the 
rainy  season ;  but  when  we  ascended  there  was  little 
wrater,  and  it  required  no  ordinary  skill  to  get  the  canoes 
over  all  the  rapids  that  presented  themselves.  I  have 
never  appreciated  the  fun  of  passing  over  rapids,  where 
a  single  false  stroke  or  inattention  of  the  steersman 
may  upset  you,  and  one  may  congratulate  himself  by 
simply  escaping  with  bruises.*  On  one  or  two  occa- 
sions we  had  to  drag  our  little  flotilla  over  them  by 
means  of  ropes.  At  length  we  arrived  at  one  worse 
than  any  we  had  previously  encountered.  We  all  landed, 
and  told  our  crew  to  put  our  luggage  on  shore ;  this 
order,  however,  was  only  partially  obeyed.  Colonel 
Smythe's  people,  wishing  to  save  themselves  the  trouble, 
headed  the  rapid.  In  an  instant  the  torrent,  breaking 


*  I  well  remember  the  anxious  faces  on  board  a  steamer  going  over  the 
rapids  of  La  Chine,  on  the  St.  Lawrence ;  the  band  playing  all  the  time, 
"  The  Eapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight  is  past."  There  were  on  board 
then  nearly  all  the  members  that  had  assembled  to  attend  the  meeting  of 
the  American  Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  at  Montreal, 
Canada,  I,  as  official  representative  of  the  Linnean  Society  of  London, 
amongst  the  number;  and  judging  from  the  serious  tone  that  pre- 
vailed, and  the  sudden  silence  when  we  drew  near  the  rapids,  I  don't 
think  there  were  many  present  who  thanked  the  managing  committee  for 
having  provided  this  passage  for  our  special  amusement.  Everybody 
was  glad  when  it  was  over,  except  perhaps  those  Canadians  who,  by  fre- 
quent repetition,  had  become  used  to  this  sensation  passage.  The  tem- 
porary gloom  was,  however,  soon  dispelled  by  an  animated  discussion  as  to 
whether  the  honour  of  taking  the  first  steamer  over  La  Chine — the  Indians 
had  always  taken  their  canoes  over — was  due  to  an  Englishman  or  Ame- 
rican. I  did  not  wait  for  the  end  of  the  discussion ;  but  whatever  country- 
man, he  must  have  been  a  most  daring  and  cool-headed  fellow. 


150  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

the  rope,  had  swept  away  the  canoe,  dashed  it  with  great 
force  against  a  steep  rock  on  the  opposite  side,  smashing 
the  outrigger,  swamping  the  little  vessel,  and  leaving 
all  the  luggage  and  provisions  swimming  in  the  water. 
All  the  natives  plunged  in  the  river,  and  succeeded  in 
saving  the  property.  Of  course  the  clothes  were  satu- 
rated, the  tea  had  been  made,  the  sugar  was  dissolved, 
and  the  biscuit  looked  like  so  much  bread  and  butter 
pudding.  To  me,  who  often  got  a  wetting  in  crossing 
rivers,  it  was  quite  amusing  to  see  Colonel  Smythe  and 
Mr.  Waterhouse  busy  in  wringing  and  hanging  up  their 
clothes,  and  I  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  asking 
them  whether  any  mangling  was  done  there. 

Fortunately,  the  stores  which  Mr.  Pritchard  and  I  had 
brought  were  quite  safe,  and  so  we  could  supply  most 
of  their  deficiencies.  The  mishap  being  repaired  as 
much  as  possible,  we  pushed  on,  and  soon  arrived  at  Na 
Mato, — a  place  where  the  river  was  entirely  blocked 
up  by  huge  rocks,  said  to  have  fallen  from  the  top  of 
the  mountain  on  the  right-hand  bank,  during  an  earth- 
quake some  forty  years  ago.  The  natives  assured  us 
that  when  this  catastrophe  first  took  place,  the  stoppage 
of  the  river  was  complete ;  and  the  water  rose  so  high 
that  for  a  long  time  it  inundated  their  fields,  and  they 
had  to  dive  for  their  provisions.  They  did  obtain  cocoa- 
nuts,  but  could  not  get  at  the  taro,  and  there  was  a 
famine  in  consequence. 

We  left  our  large  canoes  at  Na  Mato,  and  in  smaller 
ones,  which  Kuruduadua  had  in  readiness,  passed  a 
steep  rocky  shore,  where  the  people  of  Nagadi  bury 
their  dead.  Excavations  are  made  into  the  rock,  and  the 


NAGADI.  151 

corpses  laid  on  their  back,  with  the  head  towards  the 
west.  A  small  species  of  bamboo,  of  which  the  natives 
make  pan-flutes,  was  here  most  common,  as  indeed  all 
along  these  rocky  shores,  and  greatly  added  by  its  grace- 
ful feathery  habit  to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery. 

Sunset  was  close  at  hand  when  we  reached  Nagadi, 
a  town  built  on  the  top  of  a  high  steep  hill,  composed 
of  rich  clayey  soil.  For  the  night,  we  took  up  our 
quarters  at  the  Bure  ni  sa,  or  strangers'  house,  invari- 
ably found  at  every  Fijian  town  or  village,  and  remind- 
ing one  of  the  Tambo  or  Tambu  of  South  America, 
between  which  and  the  strangers'  house  of  Polynesia 
there  appears  to  be  a  connection  which  ethnologists 
do  not  seem  to  have  appreciated  sufficiently.  Both  are 
public  establishments,  where  travellers  have  the  right 
to  pass  the  night,  and  where  they  obtain  meat  and 
drink.*  This  Bure  proved  extremely  dirty,  and  was 
much  too  small  for  all  the  people  assembled  to  welcome 
our  party.  By  spreading  clean  mats  over  a  portion  of 
the  floor,  and  putting  out  most  of  the  smoking  fires 
kindled  between  each  of  the  sleeping-places,  we  suc- 
ceeded in  making  ourselves  comfortable.  Pigs,  yams, 
and  taro,  all  baked  on  hot  stones  in  true  Polynesian 
style,  as  Captain  Cook  described  it  one  hundred  years 
ago,  and  a  quantity  of  pudding,  consisting  of  ripe  ba- 
nanas boiled  in  cocoa-nut  milk,  and  sweetened  with 

*  One  of  the  meanings  of  the  Polynesian  word  tabu,  or,  as  the  Fijians 
pronounce  it,  tambu,  is  "  set  apart,"  "  reserved,"  etc. ;  and  I  often  won- 
dered— that  is  all  I  could  do  with  my  slight  philological  knowledge — 
whether  the  name  of  the  houses  "  set  apart "  or  "  reserved  "  for  travellers 
in  the  Andes,  the  Tambos  or  Tambus,  was  in  any  way  connected  with  this 
word. 


152  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

rasped  sugar-cane,  were  brought  in  and  presented  to 
Chief  Kuruduadua,  who,  after  accepting  the  gift  through 
his  speaking-man,  again  presented  it  to  us.  We  had  to 
go  through  the  same  ceremony  of  accepting  the  food, 
and  had  also  the  obligation  to  distribute  it  amongst  the 
whole  travelling  party.  This  task  was  accomplished 
satisfactorily  by  Danford,  whom  his  long  life  amongst 
the  mountain  tribes  of  Viti  Levu  has  made  familiar  with 
all  their  complicated  ceremonies. 

After  supper  the  kava  bowl  was  brought  out.  Whilst 
the  beverage  was  preparing  the  whole  assembly  chanted 
songs  ;  and  when  ready,  Danford  gave  the  toast,  and  the 
cup-bearer  handed  the  first  cocoa-nut  full  to  the  chief. 
As  soon  as  our  bowl  was  empty,  another  and  another 
was  prepared,  until  the  whole  company  had  been  served. 
Fortunately,  kava,  unlike  distilled  spirits,  does  not  make 
people  quarrelsome ;  it  has  rather,  like  tobacco,  a  calm- 
ing effect;  and  when  Fijians  extol  the  virtues  of  their 
national  beverage,  they  often,  and  justly,  make  this  ob- 
servation. 

When  leaving  Navua  we  had  more  volunteers  for 
accompanying  us  than  there  was  any  occasion  to  em- 
ploy, and  we  were  compelled  to  reject  the  services  of  a 
good  many.  Amongst  them  was  a  young  chief,  named 
Soromato,  or,  as  his  companions  nicknamed  him,  "Monte- 
monte."  I  told  him  that  I  did  not  wish  to  crowd  our 
canoe,  and  he  must  stay  behind ;  but  he  declared  that 
he  had  made  up  his  mind  not  to  leave  me  as  long  as  I 
was  in  the  island.  1  told  him  I  would  not  have  him  on 
any  account,  and  if  he  did  not  take  himself  on  shore 
directly,  I  would  pitch  him  in  the  river.  He  intimated 


SOROMATO.  153 

that  he  could  swim,  and  that  his  clothes  would  not 
spoil,  as  he  wore  none.  It  not  being  prudent  to  give 
in  to  the  natives,  I  had  no  option  but  to  carry  out  my 
threat,  choosing  the  very  moment  our  flotilla  was  under 
weigh.  He  thought  it  a  good  piece  of  fun,  and  declared 
he  would  be  with  me  nevertheless.  He  was  as  good  as 
his  word.  When  we  landed  at  Nagadi  he  was  there  al- 
ready, having  come  by  the  mountain  road.  I  had  now  no 
alternative.  He  proved  to  me  most  useful  and  attentive, 
and  never  left  me  until  I  finally  embarked,  when  he 
cried  bitterly  on  being  told  that  it  was  quite  out  of  the 
question  he  could  go  to  Europe  with  me,  where  he  would 
probably  have  to  exchange  a  life  of  ease  and  plenty  for 
one  of  toil  and  poverty,  and  not  be  treated  as  a  chief 
but  as  a  common  man. 

The  tribes  of  which  Kuruduadua  was  the  head,  had 
for  some  time  been  molested  by  their  neighbours,  and  wre 
found  at  Nagadi  a  party  of  soldiers  just  returned  from 
an  unsuccessful  ambush.  They  had  endeavoured  to  kid- 
nap some  of  their  enemies,  and  wrere  rather  disappointed 
at  having  to  report  ill  success.  I  recognized  several  of 
them  as  having  been  at  Navua  during  our  first  visit  to 
that  place,  and  they  gave  us  some  account  of  Kurudua- 
dua's  son,  whom  Mr.  Pritchard  and  I  invested  with  his 
toga  virilis.  He  was  in  the  depths  of  the  mountains,  and 
a  message  had  been  sent  to  him  that  he  might  come  to 
pay  his  respects  to  us. 

Before  retiring  to  rest  we  had  family  prayers  in  En- 
glish, Mr.  Waterhouse  officiating.  Kuruduadua  com- 
manded silence,  and  it  was  very  impressive,  amongst  a 
profound  stillness,  to  hear  a  Christian  minister  offering 


154  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

up  supplications  to  heaven  for  the  conversion  of  the  be- 
nighted beings  crowding  around  us.  They  were  all  at- 
tention, and  in  their  minds  evidently  compared  the  con- 
vulsive ravings  of  their  own  priests  with  the  dignified 
bearing  of  the  Christian  missionary. 

The  next  morning  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  heathen  temple 
at  Nagadi.  Unlike  other  temples  on  the  coast,  which 
are  generally  erected  on  terraced  mounds,  and  quite  free 
from  any  enclosure,  this  was  on  level  ground,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  bamboo  fence ;  some  of  the  sticks 
used  being  the  young  shoots  entire,  with  unexpanded 
leaves,  and  looking  like  so  many  fishing-rods.  The 
temple  itself  was  a  mere  hut,  scarcely  twenty-five  feet 
long  and  fifteen  wide.  In  one  corner  there  was  an  enclo- 
sure of  reeds,  where  the  spirit  was  supposed  to  dwell  or 
descend.  Kava-roots  and  leaves,  clubs,  spears,  and  little 
twigs  of  Waltlieria  Americana,  suspended  from  various 
parts  of  the  roof,  had  been  presented  as  offerings.  In 
some  old  temples  the  various  offerings  have  been  taste- 
fully arranged,  making  the  interior  of  the  building  look 
like  a  great  armoury.  There  were  no  images  of  any 
kind, — indeed,  I  never  saw  idols  of  any  sort  throughout 
Fiji.  The  priest  and  his  family  also  lived  in  this  place, 
and  readily  exhibited  all  the  curiosities  accumulated. 
Amongst  the  things  attracting  my  attention  was  a  lot  of 
bamboo-canes  tied  in  a  bundle,  which,  on  being  struck  on 
the  ground  with  the  opening  downwards,  produced  a  loud 
and  hollow  sound.  Two  single  bamboos  of  unequal  length 
are  beaten  contemporaneously  with  this  large  bundle 
in  religious  ceremonies.  I  gave  the  young  priest  a  jew's- 
harp,  with  which  he  expressed  himself  highly  pleased. 


LAEGE    SNAKE.  155 

At  Nagadi  the  river  branches  off  in  two  different  direc- 
tions: the  eastern  branch  is  not  navigable  even  for 
small  canoes,  but  said  to  be  about  forty  miles  long; 
whilst  the  northern  has  deep  water,  of  which  we  took 
advantage  in  resuming  our  journey  the  next  morning. 
All  our  luggage  was  sent  by  land,  on  the  backs  of 
natives.  The  weather  still  continued  fine,  so  that  we 
fully  enjoyed  the  beautiful  scenery  and  rich  vegetation 
around  us.  We  passed  Bega,  where  our  river  was  joined 
by  a  small  tributary  stream  ;  hence  the  site  of  the  town 
(or  koro)  is  termed  Uci  wai  rua,  the  junction  of  two 
rivers,  the  rivers  being  the  Wai  Koro  Luva,  and  the  Wai 
ni  Avu.  We  finally  abandoned  our  canoes  at  Wai  nuta, 
to  proceed  on  foot  to  Namosi — there  being  no  horses, 
mules,  or  any  other  mode  of  conveyance. 

On  stepping  on  shore  I  was  shown  the  largest  snake 
I  ever  saw  in  Fiji.  It  was  only  six  feet  long,  two  inches 
in  diameter,  of  a  light  brown  colour,  and  with  a  trian- 
gularly-shaped head.  I  was  very  desirous  of  obtaining  it 
for  my  zoological  collection ;  but  the  natives  said  that 
Kuruduadua  had  just  seen  it  and  ordered  them  to  pre- 
pare it  for  his  supper  on  his  return  from  Namosi.  As 
he  had  passed  on,  I  could  not  get  the  order  revoked ;  and 
the  reptile  having  been  put  alive  in  a  bamboo,  which 
was  corked  up  at  the  ends,  the  boys,  much  to  my  regret, 
trotted  off  with  it. 

Climbing  at  once  commenced.  The  paths  being  very 
narrow  we  walked  in  single  file,  Kuruduadua  taking  the 
lead,  and  showing  us  the  sites  of  the  various  towns  which 
he  or  his  fathers  had  taken  when  their  victorious  army 
gradually  fought  its  way  from  the  interior  of  Viti  Levu 


156  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

to  its  southern  coast.  The  soil  appeared  everywhere  of 
the  richest  kind.  We  saw  no  plains  of  any  size,  but 
series  after  series  of  undulating  ranges  of  no  very  great 
height,  well  suited  for  growing  coffee,  tea,  and  cotton. 
Now  and  then  there  was  a  fine  bird's-eye  view  of  the 
country,  which  Kuruduadua  was  always  careful  to  point 
out,  evidently  enjoying  our  expressions  of  delight  on 
these  occasions.  I  saw  a  good  many  plants  that  inter- 
ested me,  and  their  collection  ultimately  isolated  me 
and  Soromato,  henceforth  my  shadow,  from  the  rest  of 
the  party. 

I  had  just  been  speculating  on  the  cause  of  the  Fi- 
jian, in  common  with  other  insular  floras,  being  poor 
in  gay-coloured,  and  rich  in  green,  white,  and  yellow 
flowers,  when,  lo !  a  look  in  the  valley  revealed  bushes 
covered  with  a  perfect  mantle  of  scarlet  and  blue, 
thrown  up  to  great  advantage  by  the  bright  rays  of  the 
sun.  I  saw  my  travelling  companions  had  made  a  halt 
near  the  very  spot  where  nature  had  condescended  to 
refute  a  deeply-rooted  generalization.  I  clambered 
down  the  hill  as  fast  as  the  condition  of  the  ground 
would  admit,  and  for  awhile  lost  sight  of  the  gay  dis- 
play by  intervening  objects.  A  few  more  steps  and 
I  stood  before  a  startling  sight — Colonel  Smythe's  artil- 
lery uniform  hung  up  to  dry  in  the  sun ! 

In  detailing  the  violent  emotions  I  had  passed  through, 
my  companions  enjoyed  a  good  laugh  at  my  expense, 
and  invited  me  to  cool  myself  by  sitting  down  to  a  cup 
of  hot  tea,  pork,  and  yams,  all  spread  out  picnic  fashion 
on  the  grass,  and  in  the  shade  of  some  fine  cocoa-nut 
palms.  The  village  where  I  met  with  this  mortification 


NO   THIEVING.  157 

rejoiced  in  the  name  of  Vuniwaivutuku,  and  consisted 
of  about  thirty  houses,  some  of  which  were  neatly  fenced 
in  with  Dracaenas.  The  place  where  we  had  squatted 
down  was  in  front  of  the  Buri  ni  sa,  an  old  and  not 
very  large  building,  surrounded  by  a  good  many  erect 
stones,  indicating  the  number  of  dead  bodies  eaten 
under  its  hospitable  roof.  The  grass-plot  in  front,  and 
several  fine  leaf  plants,  gave  an  air  of  neatness  to  the 
whole ;  whilst  the  extensive  view  it  commanded  over 
the  whole  valley,  proved  the  situation  a  well-chosen 
one  for  a  strangers'  house.  Kuruduadua  informed  us 
that  there  were  two  roads  from  here  to  Namosi,  and 
that  he  should  take  us  the  longest,  and  bring  us  back 
the  shortest,  so  that  we  might  see  as  much  as  possible 
of  his  territory.  He  told  us  the  road  would  be  rather 
a  rough  one,  and,  without  any  exaggeration,  it  proved 
quite  equal  to  the  worst  roads  I  traversed  in  South 
America.  Now  we  had  to  climb  perpendicular  rocks, 
now  creep  underneath  low  bowers  formed  by  reeds,  now 
again  wrade  through  rivers  and  rivulets,  or  pass  over 
swampy  ground.  Our  clothes  were  torn  by  brambles, 
our  hands  and  faces  cut  by  sharp-edged  leaves  of  grasses ; 
indeed,  one  was  forcibly  reminded  of  the  flight  of  the 
mechanics  through  the  forests,  which  Puck  relates  with 
roguish  delight  in  the  '  Midsummer  Night's  Dream : ' 

"  For  briers  and  thorns  at  their  apparel  snatch ; 
Some  sleeves ;  some  hats  ;  from  yielders  all  things  catch." 

On  proceeding,  Colonel  Smythe  discovered  that  he 
had  left  his  purse  at  Nagadi,  having  placed  it  last  night 
under  his  mat,  and  forgotten  to  put  it  in  his  pocket  be- 
fore starting.  "  Make  yourself  perfectly  easy  about  it," 


158  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

said  Kuruduadua,  when  this  loss  was  communicated  to 
him,  "  I  allow  no  thieving  here ;  I  club  all  thieves :  they 
don't  do  that  at  Rewa  or  Bau.  A  man  shall  go  back 
for  it  at  once,  and  in  a  short  time  the  purse  will  be 
brought."  A  messenger  was  sent  accordingly,  and,  sure 
enough,  when  it  was  brought  not  a  coin  was  missing. 

Covered  with  mud  and  very  tired,  we  reached  towards 
sunset  the  town  of  Namosi,  where  Danford  many  years 
ago  took  up  his  residence.  The  beauty  of  its  situa- 
tion had  not  been  exaggerated,  and  the  accompanying 
sketch,  for  which  I  am  indebted  to  Dr.  Macdonald,  will 
give  some  conception  of  it.  It  is  built  in  a  lovely  valley, 
very  much  reminding  me  of  Ischl.  High  mountains  are 
rising  on  every  side  of  an  extremely  fruitful  valley, 
through  which  the  Wai  dina  is  winding  its  serpentine 
course,  and  passing  many  miles  of  fertile  country,  ulti- 
mately discharges  its  waters  into  the  sea  at  Rewa.  The 
temperature  being  considerably  lower  than  that  of  the 
coast,  a  European  is  filled  with  a  thrill  of  delight  as  he 
begins  to  breathe  the  air  so  much  resembling  that  to 
which  his  constitution  is  best  accustomed ;  and  it  requires 
no  prophetic  soul  to  predict  that  if  ever  the  Fijis  be- 
come a  European  colony,  Namosi  will  be  a  favourite 
resort  during  the  hot  season,  and  the  surrounding  hills 
a  mass  of  coffee  and  tea  plantations. 

We  went  straight  to  Danford' s  house,  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  town,  built  close  to  the  rocky  banks 
of  the  river,  and  surrounded  by  a  neat  bamboo  fence, 
enclosing  fine  cocoa-nut,  bread-fruit,  orange,  and  Tahi- 
tian  chestnut-trees,  which  diffused  an  agreeable  shade 
over  the  extensive  courtyard,  whilst  gay-coloured  dra- 


DANFOKD.  159 

caenas  and  croton  shrubs  gave  quite  a  finish  to  the 
place.  Danford  evidently  enjoyed  our  surprise  at  find- 
ing everything  so  clean  and  comfortable,  and  new  mats 
and  even  calico  curtains.  It  was  the  best  kept  native- 
built  house  I  had  visited  in  Fiji.  Afterwards,  when 
having  seen  more  of  us,  he  told  us  how  much  annoyed 
he  had  been  by  certain  remarks  the  whites  on  the  coast 
had  made  to  his  disadvantage.  Those  people,  who 
should  be  nameless,  had  insulted  him  by  asking  him 
point-blank  how  cannibal  food  tasted,  and  how  he  could 
think  of  forsaking  the  Christian  religion  and  assisting 
in  heathen  rites.  He  had  nothing  to  oppose  of  these 
accusations  but  silent  contempt,  and  his  well-fingered 
Bible  was  a  good  proof  of  his  real  disposition.  In  his 
own  way  he  had  evidently  done  a  great  deal  of  good ; 
was  the  direct  means  of  abolishing  many  abominable 
practices;  and  without  this  pioneer  we  should  never 
have  been  able  to  reach  this  little-known  region  of  the 
world.  He  was  very  fond  of  reading,  and  had  accumu- 
lated a  good  many  books,  mostly  presents  from  consuls, 
missionaries,  or  captains  and  officers  of  ships.  I  in- 
creased it  by  a  copy  of  Shakspeare,  after  which  he  had 
a  hankering.  The  natives  often  came  to  look  at  his 
picture  books,  and  the  '  Illustrated  London  News '  was  a 
source  of  endless  delight  to  them. 


160 


CHAPTER  X. 

POPULAR  IDEAS  RESPECTING  THE  INTERIOR  OF  VITI  LEVU. — MALACHITE 
AND  ANTIMONY. — ASCENT  OF  VOMA  PEAK. — VISIT  TO  A  HEATHEN 
TEMPLE. — "SPIRIT  FOWLS." — OFFICIAL  MEETING  WITH  KURUDUADUA 
AND  HIS  SUBJECTS. — A  REBELLION  TO  BE  SUPPRESSED. — PRESENTATION 

OF     FOOD. "  THE     OLDEST     INHABITANTS." A     COURT-FOOL     AND     HIS 

TRICKS.  —  MR.    WATERHOUSE      PREACHING.  —  DEPARTURE      OF      COLONEL 
SMYTHE,   AND   MESSRS.    PRITCHARD   AND   WATERHOUSE,    FOR   NAGROGA. 

To  the  north  of  Namosi  there  is  a  good  deal  of  unex- 
plored country,  and  we  tried  hard  to  get  some  informa- 
tion about  its  general  features.  A  popular  belief,  cur- 
rent amongst  the  white  settlers  in  Fiji,  affirms  that  there 
is  a  large  table-land  and  an  inland  lake  in  Viti  Levu. 
Nothing  could  be  learnt  of  this  table-land,  but  the  na- 
tives had  heard  of  a  lake  on  which  canoes  were.  Not 
far  from  Namosi,  still  in  sight  of  the  town,  exists  a 
mountain,  which  the  late  Mr.  Williams,  American  Con- 
sul for  Fiji,  bought  for  its  rich  veins  of  copper  ore. 
After  Mr.  Williams's  death  a  number  of  specimens  from 
this  mountain  were  found  in  his  possession,  of  which 
his  executor  gave  me  several.  They  proved  to  be  ma- 
lachite, closely  resembling  the  Australasian,  and  next  to 
that  of  the  Ural,  considered  the  best.  Nothing  has  as 
yet  been  done  to  work  these  mines.  The  natives  also 
informed  us  of  the  existence  of  ore  cf  antimony  about 


MALACHITE   AND    ANTIMONY.  161 

ten  miles  from  Namosi,  and  at  a  place  called  TJmbi, 
where  it  is  said  to  occur  in  large  veins  in  the  side  of  a 
hill.  Macdonald  and  S.  Waterhouse  also  heard  of  and 
saw  quantities  brought  down  by  the  natives  in  bamboos, 
and  concluded  that  it  must  be  plentiful.  The  black 
sand  so  frequently  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Eewa 
river,  and  attracted  by  a  magnet,  has  also  been  washed 
down  from  these  mountains.  Danford  at  one  time  fancied 
he  had  discovered  gold  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  in 
1856  he  took  the  c  Herald's '  officers  to  the  Wai  ni  Ura. 
The  rocks  were  spangled  with  iron  pyrites,  which  made 
their  appearance  wherever  the  surface  was  broken :  gold 
was  nowhere  to  be  seen. 

Directly  on  our  arrival  we  made  preparations  for  as- 
cending Voma,  the  highest  peak  in  Viti  Levu,  perhaps 
in  the  whole  Fijis,  and  never  trodden  by  the  foot  of 
white  man.  The  natives  represented  to  us  the  impos- 
sibility of  getting  to  the  summit,  but  we  told  them  that 
we  must  at  least  make  the  attempt.  To  this  proposal 
they  agreed,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  24th  of  August 
we  commenced  our  task,  guided  by  Natove,  a  famous 
warrior  and  petty  chief,  who  proved  an  excellent  hand 
in  cutting  openings  through  the  forest  when  we  got 
higher  up. 

On  leaving  Namosi  our  path  led  through  numerous 
taro,  banana,  and  yam  plantations,  and  close  to  an  altar 
made  of  sticks  and  native  cloth,  on  which  food  for  the 
spirits  of  the  dead  was  placed :  some  of  the  yams  were 
actually  sprouting  again.  The  mass  of  Fijians  will  have 
it  that  these  offerings  are  consumed  by  the  spirits  of 
their  departed  friends  and  relations,  supposed  to  have 

M 


162  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

great  supernatural  influence ;  but  if  not  eaten  by  ani- 
mals, the  food  is  often  stolen  by  the  more  enlightened 
class  of  their  own  countrymen,  and  even  some  foreigners 
occasionally  do  not  disdain  to  help  themselves  freely. 

The  ascent  of  Voma  was  steep,  and  made  us  very 
warm  indeed.  Our  native  attendants  found  it  equally 
so,  though  not  encumbered  with  any  clothing  like  our- 
selves ;  and  to  cool  themselves  they  thought  it  no  addi- 
tional exertion  to  climb  up  a  tree  and  catch  the  breeze. 
In  former  times,  there  had  been  a  town  some  consider- 
able distance  up  the  mountain,  traces  of  which  were 
still  visible ;  and  hence,  though  there  was  a  thick  wood, 
the  actual  virgin  forest  did  not  commence  until  we  had 
attained  the  height  of  about  2500  feet  above  the  sea. 
When  entering  that  region  we  found  the  trees  altogether 
different  from  those  of  the  lowlands,  and  densely  covered 
with  mosses,  lichens,  and  deep  orange-coloured  orchids 
(DendroUum  Mohlianum,  Echb.  fil.).  Some  of  the  ferns 
were  of  antediluvian  dimensions.  A  species  of  Cinna- 
momum,  producing  a  superior  kind  of  cassia-bark,  and 
used  by  the  natives  for  scenting  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  as  a 
powerful  sudorific,  was  met  with  in  considerable  quan- 
tities. The  absence  of  all  large  animals,  and  the  limited 
number  of  birds,  impart  an  air  of  solemnity  to  these 
upland  forests.  Not  a  sound  is  heard :  all  is  silence 
• — repose ! 

We  had  to  pass  over  some  awkward  places,  and  to 
climb  several  almost  perpendicular  rocks,  rendered  slip- 
pery by  water  trickling  down.  However,  at  half-past  ten, 
two  hours  and  a  half  after  starting,  Colonel  Smythe,  Mr. 
Pritchard  and  myself,  reached  the  summit :  Danford 


ASCENT   OF   VOMA   PEAK.  163 

having  stopped  half-way,  and  Mr.  Waterhouse  remained 
behind  at  Namosi  to  scatter  a  little  seed  of  truth  amongst 
the  numerous  heathens  pouring  into  the  town  for  to- 
morrow's grand  meeting.* 

Immediately  trees  were  cut  down,  and  compass  bear- 
ings taken  of  all  prominent  parts,  by  which  means  an 
important  step  was  made  to  reform  the  geography  of 
Viti  Levu.f  A  great  part  of  Fiji  lay  like  a  map  at  our 
feet ;  there  were  the  islands  of  Moturiki,  Batiki,  Gau, 
Bega,  Ovalau,  and  a  host  of  smaller  ones ;  even  Kadavu 
was  looming  at  the  distance.  We  had  hoped  to  have  a 

*  "  Before  a  large  company  of  chiefs  and  people."  says  Mr.  Water- 
house,  in  his  published  journal  of  this  tour,  "  I  gave  an  account  of  the 
Great  Creator,  and  of  the  original  state  and  subsequent  fall  of  man. 
They  loudly  applauded  Adam's  cleverness  in  blaming  the  woman,  and 
Eve's  in  accusing  the  serpent.  I  was  afterwards  requested  to  tell  them 
about  Noah  and  the  Flood,  with  which  demand  I  complied.  Before  I 
left  the  house,  the  chief  said  to  those  present,  '  These  missionaries  are  oul 
true  friends  :  they  want  us  to  live  in  peace  and  quietness,  and  to  cultivate 
the  soil ;  but  you  slaves  can't  understand  these  matters.'  Many  referred 
in  glowing  terms  to  the  visit  of  my  brother  Samuel,  and  Kuruduadua  gave 
a  vivid  description  of  his  visit  to  the  house  of  the  Rev.  William  Moore." 
t  Dr.  Macdonald  and  Mr.  Samuel  Waterhouse  were,  it  is  well  known, 
the  first  who  penetrated  up  the  Wai  dina,  or  great  river  of  Viti  Levu,  to 
Namosi,  and  from  data  which  they  furnished  was  constructed  the  map 
published  in  the  Journal  of  the  Eoyal  Geographical  Society,  vol.  xxvii. 
Having  nothing  to  go  upon  but  the  compass  and  dead  reckoning,  the  posi- 
tion of  Namosi,  as  well  as  the  source  of  the  Wai  dina,  has  been  placed  too 
far  west,  as  our  route  to  Namosi  lay  almost  due  north.  The  compass 
bearings  taken  on  the  top  of  Voma  Peak  would  have  corrected  errors 
found  in  recent  maps ;  but  the  southern  coast  seems  to  be  so  far  out  that 
they  cannot  be  made  available  at  present.  I  subjoin  them  : — East  end  of 
Moturiki,  N.E.  by  E. ;  centre  of  Batiki,  N.E.  by  E.  f  E. ;  west  end  of 
Gau,  E.  by  N.  i  N. ;  centre  of  Nukulau  Island  (Eewa),  E.  f  S. ;  east  end 
of  Bega,  S. ;  centre  of  Yanuca,  S.  by  W.  i  W. ;  Gamo  Peak,  S.  by  W.  £ 
W. ;  extreme  sea  horizon  to  the  west,  S.W.  by  W.  ;  town  of  Namosi, 
N.  N.W. ;  extreme  sea  horizon  on  the  north  was  the  west  end  of 
Ovalau. 

M   2* 


1G4  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

glimpse  of  Bega;  but  that  we  should  be  able  to  see  nearly 
two-thirds  of  the  whole  group  was  a  pleasure  for  which 
we  were  unprepared,  and  which  amply  repaid  the  exer- 
tion made  in  the  ascent.  A  fire  was  kindled  to  let  the 
people  of  Namosi  know  of  our  success,  and  after  collect- 
ing specimens  of  the  vegetation,  and  partaking  of  some 
refreshment,  we  descended,  and  reached  Namosi  about 
five  P.M.,  the  boys  carrying  baskets  full  of  rare  and  new 
plants. 

In  the  evening  we  paid  a  visit  to  a  Bure  Kalou  (heathen 
temple).  Though  not  surrounded  by  a  fence,  it  was 
situated  and  similar  to  that  at  Nagadi,  small  and  insig- 
nificant in  comparison  with  some  of  the  temples  near 
the  coast.  Danford  introduced  us  to  the  priest,  who 
kept  up  a  roaring  fire,  which  made  the  inside  too  hot 
for  us  to  stay  longer  than  a  few  minutes.  We  were  told 
that  the  Kalou  (= Spirit,  God),  for  whom  two-thirds  of 
the  whole  building  were  set  apart  by  a  screen  of  bamboo, 
liked  heat ;  but  I  presume  the  only  spirit  fond  of  a  good 
fire  was  the  priest  himself,  as  he  was  rather  an  old 
man.  Hearing  from  Danford  that  one  of  our  party, 
disliking  pork,  had  not  eaten  meat  for  several  days,  he 
very  good-naturedly  let  us  have  several  fowls  presented 
to  the  temple.  Danford  dubbed  them  spirit-fowls, 
and  Mr.  Pritchard  turned  them  into  excellent  curry, 
for  which  the  materials  were  fetched  fresh  from  the 
bush. 

When  retiring  to  the  house,  Danford  occupied  the 
greater  part  of  the  evening  by  telling  us  one  of  the 
best  Fijian  stories,  one  of  the  chiefs  helping  him  out 
when  memory  failed.  It  was  that  of  the  Princess  Vili- 


OFFICIAL   MEETING    AT   NAMOSI.  165 

vilitabua  and  the  Vasu-ki-lagi.  One  of  our  party  took 
down  the  outline  of  it,  but  unfortunately  lost  it,  and  I 
shall  not  spoil  a  good  story  by  giving  it  imperfectly. 

Chief  Kuruduadua  had  proposed  to  have  the  official 
meeting  at  Namosi,  in  preference  to  Navua,  his  usual 
place  of  residence  on  the  coast,  and  summoned  all  his 
tribes,  their  petty  chiefs  and  landholders  for  the  25th  of 
August.  On  our  arrival,  Namosi  was  already  crowded 
with  visitors,  and  parties  of  men,  women,  and  children, 
generally  bringing  loads  of  provisions  and  property  with 
them,  continued  to  flock  in  from  all  directions  during  the 
whole  of  the  following  day.  The  meeting  took  place 
in  the  open  air,  and  in  the  public  square  or  Kara,  which 
is  situate  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  before  the  great 
Bure  ni  sa,  or  strangers'  house,  a  building  about  ninety 
feet  long,  and  built  on  a  mound.  The  weather  was 
beautiful,  and  the  birds  were  singing  sweetly  in  the 
numerous  shaddock-trees  lining  the  banks. 

When  we  arrived,  the  people,  with  the  exception  of 
the  women,  were  squatted  on  the  ground  at  a  respectful 
distance  from  the  seats  placed  for  our  accommodation. 
None  of  the  influence  which  civilization  and  missionary 
teaching  have  had  on  the  Fijians  were  here  perceptible. 
Every  native  appeared  in  primitive  style,  and  a  stranger 
sight  it  has  never  been  my  fortune  to  witness.  Every 
man  seemed  to  have  used  his  utmost  efforts  to  make 
himself  look  as  singular  as  he  possibly  could.  Their 
dresses  were  merely  narrow  strips  of  bark  cloth.  Some 
faces  were  quite  black,  some  only  half;  again,  others 
half  black  and  half  red,  or  striped  in  various  ways. 
Nothing  could  be  more  curious  than  the  endless  variety 


166  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

displayed  in  the  shape  and  colour  of  the  wigs,  and  doing- 
up  of  the  head  ;  a  European  peruquier  might  have  taken 
a  lesson  with  advantage.  Chief  Kuruduadua  had  taken 
his  seat  on  the  steps  leading  to  the  principal  entrance  of 
the  great  Bure.  He  wore  a  turban  of  snow-white  tapa, 
and  a  purple  girdle  of  the  same  material,  from  which 
were  suspended  two  trains  of  native  cloth,  several  yards 
long.  On  his  left  were  his  brothers  and  councillors, 
amongst  whom  was  seen  his  friend  Danford.  When  wre 
had  taken  our  seats,  the  people  welcomed  us  by  clap- 
ping of  hands,  whereupon  mutual  explanations  were  at 
once  entered  into. 

Through  Mr.  Waterhouse,  Colonel  Smythe  addressed 
to  the  chief  a  speech  similar  to  that  delivered  at  Bau 
and  other  places,  the  purport  of  which  has  already  been 
given.  Mr.  Waterhouse  spoke  in  the  Bauan  (court) 
dialect,  and  Kuruduadua  replied  in  the  same,  that  he 
and  his  people  had  made  up  their  minds  to  "  lean  upon 
England,"  as  he  expressed  it,  in  the  manner  agreed  upon 
with  Mr.  Consul  Pritchard.  Colonel  Smythe  approved  of 
their  determination  as  judicious,  there  being  no  country 
more  able  to  protect  them  than  mighty  England.  He 
also  recommended  the  cultivation  of  cotton.  On  being 
questioned  about  the  ownership  of  land,  Kuruduadua 
replied  that  he  considered  himself  the  sole  proprietor 
of  all  the  land,  the  boundaries  and  principal  tribes  of 
which  were  specified;  that  his  late  brother  had  sold 
some  land  to  Mr.  Williams,  deceased,  and  he  himself 
some  to  several  Englishmen,  all  these  transactions  being 
acknowledged  as  valid. 

An   expression   of  mutual   goodwill   concluded   the 


MEASURES   FOR   REPRESSING    A   REBELLION.  167 

business.  During  the  whole  time  the  people  behaved 
with  great  dignity ;  none  spoke  except  those  who  car- 
ried on  the  discussion.  When  their  foreign  affairs  were 
satisfactorily  concluded,  the  chief,  quitting  his  seat, 
begged  us  to  remain,  in  order  to  see  how  they  managed 
their  internal  politics.  This  invitation  we  gladly  ac- 
cepted by  taking  up  our  position  near  the  entrance  of 
the  Bure,  where  we  had  a  better  view  of  the  whole 
assembly. 

It  appears  that  one  of  the  numerous  tribes  subject  to 
Kuruduadua  had  rebelled  against  his  authority,  and  it 
had  been  determined  by  the  councillors  that  stringent 
measures  should  be  put  in  force  against  it.  The  princi- 
pal and  most  renowned  speaker  of  the  Government,  a 
man  about  fifty,  now  came,  staff  in  hand,  out  of  the  great 
Bure  into  which  Kuruduadua  had  retired,  and  explained 
to  the  people  at  large  the  policy  about  to  be  pursued. 
He  moved  freely  about  the  circle  formed  by  his  audience, 
and  his  speech  was  listened  to  with  profound  attention, 
eliciting  now  and  then  exclamations  equivalent  to  "hear, 
hear  ! "  The  drift  of  his  argument  was  that  the  rebels 
must  be  put  down  and  peace  restored,  in  order  that 
they  might  have  plenty  when  the  white  men  came  to  their 
country,  from  whom  Fiji  already  derived  such  benefits. 
When  he  had  finished,  other  speakers  got  up,  all  in 
favour  of  the  government  measure,  and  much  applauded 
by  the  multitude.  One  old  chief  was  much  cheered  on 
saying,  "  I  am  no  speaker,  but  know  how  to  fight ;  and 
there  (pointing  with  his  hand)  is  the  road  to  the  enemy's 
stronghold." 

All  business  matters  having  been  disposed  of,  it  only 


168  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

remained  to  enact  the  closing  scene  by  a  great  banquet. 
The  women  now  appeared  on  the  stage.  All  the  young 
girls  had  collected  in  a  group,  some  two  hundred  yards 
off,  in  a  grove  of  palm-trees,  each  carrying  a  basket-full 
of  taro.  According  to  their  fashion,  they  wore  nothing 
save  a  girdle  of  hibiscus-fibres,  about  six  inches  wide, 
dyed  black,  red,  yellow,  white,  or  brown,  and  put 
on  in  such  a  coquettish  way,  that  one  thought  it  must 
come  off  every  moment.  The  girls  (a  hundred  and  fifty- 
four)  walked  in  single  file,  and  all  those  wearing  girdles 
of  the  same  colour  kept  together.  When  arriving  in 
front  of  the  Bure,  young  men  received  the  baskets  and 
emptied  their  contents  in  a  heap,  leaves  having  been 
spread  out  to  keep  them  from  coming  in  contact  with 
the  ground.  We  counted  as  many  as  two  thousand 
taros,  after  which  the  baskets  came  in  so  fast  that  we  lost 
count.  The  girls,  after  performing  their  part,  walked 
away  in  the  same  order  as  they  came.  Several  young 
men  now  brought  seven  large  hogs,  roasted  entire,  which 
were  placed  on  the  top  of  the  taro  heap.  The  whole 
pile  of  food  was  then  presented  to  the  visitors.  The 
largest  pig,  and  I  am  almost  afraid  to  say  how  many 
hundred  taros — ready  to  be  eaten — fell  to  our  share. 
It  took  twenty  men  to  take  our  share  home,  for  the 
food  was  not  supposed  to  be  consumed  on  the  spot, 
everybody  being  at  liberty  to  do  what  he  liked  with 
his  lot,  and  I  saw  but  very  few  not  taking  their  por- 
tion away  with  them. 

There  was  a  man  present  at  this  meeting,  Eo  Tui 
Kuku,  who  had  seen  five  generations  of  the  reigning 
chiefs  family,  and  could  not  have  been  less  than  a 


THE  OLDEST  INHABITANTS.  169 

hundred  and  twenty  years  old ;  and  there  was  another 
man,  sharing  the  same  house  with  him,  who  had  seen 
four  generations  of  the  same  family :  excellent  proofs 
of  the  fine  physical  constitution  of  the  natives,  and  the 
healthiness  of  these  mountains.  Ho  Tui  Kuku  was 
quite  childish,  and  when  we  spoke  to  him  and  pre- 
sented him  with  a  little  American  tobacco,  he  said  that 
he  must  be  off  home.  He  had  great-great-grand-chil- 
dren living,  the  eldest  of  whom  was  about  ten  years  old. 
Another  personage  attracted  our  attention.  He  was 
the  court  fool  of  the  occasion,  and  had  dressed  himself 
in  a  very  fantastic  manner.  The  fools  attached  to  the 
courts  of  South  Sea  chiefs  are  very  often  hunchbacks, 
the  natives  being  fully  sensible  of  the  great  fund  of 
humour  which  that  class  of  people  generally  possess, 
as  a  set-off,  it  would  almost  appear,  for  the  physical 
deformity  which  so  often  exposes  them  to  unmerited  ridi- 
cule, and  which  is  now  considered  in  Europe  an  essential 
condition  of  the  most  comic  figure  the  popular  mind 
has  conceived.  But  the  Namosi  fool  was  an  exception 
to  this  rule.  He  was  in  every  respect  a  fine  fellow,  more 
than  six  feet  high.  On  his  head  he  wore  a  contrivance 
made  of  sticks  and  feathers  resembling  the  shovel- 
bonnets  ladies  used  to  wear  some  years  ago,  and  his  face 
and  body  were  painted  in  a  very  ludicrous  manner.  He 
talked  in  a  feigned  voice,  imitating  a  woman,  and 
probably  gave  utterance  to  many  witticisms  and  good 
jokes,  as  he  kept  his  countrymen  in  roars  of  laughter 
whenever  he  opened  his  mouth.  When  the  meeting 
broke  up,  we  had  to  recross  the  river  in  order  to  get  to 
Danford's  house ;  a  strong  Tonguese  belonging  to  the 


170  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

mission  performed,  St.  Christopher-like,  the  office  of  car- 
rying our  party  across.  Not  being  in  a  particular  hurry 
to  get  over,  I  was  waiting  until  all  had  crossed,  when  this 
fool  came  up  to  me  with  an  oifer  to  take  me  to  the  op- 
posite bank.  I  thought  he  might  be  up  to  some  tricks, 
and  was  rather  on  my  guard.  He  landed  me  safely,  but 
I  soon  found  that  I  had  been  sold  nevertheless, — my 
white  dress  looking  as  if  printed  on.  The  colours  he 
had  on  his  back  had  come  off,  and  made  me  look  almost 
as  comic  as  the  fool  himself.  The  natives  thought  it 
an  excellent  joke,  and  when  they  saw  me  laughing  as 
much  as  they  did,  their  merriment  knew  no  bounds. 

On  the  following  day  (Sunday,  August  26th)  Mr. 
Waterhouse,  making  the  most  of  his  opportunity,  once 
more  addressed  the  people  ;*  in  the  afternoon,  he,  Co- 
lonel Smythe,  and  Consul  Pritchard  left  Namosi  for 
Navua,  whilst  I  thought  it  best  to  remain  behind  in 
order  to  explore  the  neighbourhood,  and  get  a  more  inti- 
mate acquaintance  with  these  singular  people.  Kuru- 
duadua  again  led  the  way,  and  this  time  took  his  visitors 
the  shorter  of  the  two  roads  leading  to  Vuniwaivutuka. 
They  shot  down  the  river  rapidly,  and  on  Monday,  about 
four  P.M.,  reached  the  '  Pegasus,'  and  put  at  once  to  sea. 
On  the  30th  of  August  they  found  themselves  at  Nadroga. 

*  "  On  Sunday  I  preached  on  '  God  now  commandeth  all  men  every- 
where to  repent,'  to  a  congregation  of  about  three  hundred  male  adults, 
all  heathens,  who  listened  very  attentively  and  respectfully.  Now  and 
then  one  or  another  would  say  aloud,  '  Very  good ; '  or,  '  It's  true.' 
When  I  had  concluded,  I  requested  the  audience  to  maintain  perfect  quiet- 
ness for  a  few  moments  whilst  I  engaged  in  prayer  to  the  true  and  only 
God.  They  granted  the  favour,  and  not  an  individual  made  the  slightest 
disturbance.  As  I  was  leaving,  one  of  the  chiefs  thanked  me  publicly 
for  my  instruction." — Waterhouse,  in  Wesley  an  Missionary  Notices. 


TROUBLES  AT  NADROGA.  171 

As  the  difference  between  the  heathen  and  Christian 
population,  mentioned  in  a  previous  chapter,  had  not 
yet  been  satisfactorily  settled,  they  found  the  country  in 
rather  a  disturbed  condition.  The  conflict  between  bar- 
barism and  an  incipient  civilization  was  still  going  on. 

"  The  people  were  glad  to  see  a  missionary,"  says  Mr. 
Waterhouse.  "  I  was  sorry  to  find  that  some  of  our 
native  agents  had  not  maintained  neutrality  between 
the  Christians  and  heathens,  which,  they  were  obliged 
to  confess,  was  not  only  against  orders,  but  had  proved 
to  be,  so  far  as  they  were  personally  concerned,  bad  po- 
licy. Since  my  visit  in  1851  the  bones  of  those  human 
beings  who  had  been  eaten  had  been  collected  toge- 
ther and  buried.  The  evening  was  spent  in  examining 
and  instructing  the  schoolmasters  and  Scripture-readers. 
Mr.  Moore  has  done  a  noble  work  in  preparing  so  many 
agents  for  these  benighted  parts. 

"  Though  in  some  danger,  yet  I  felt  it  my  duty  to 
sleep  on  shore  to  encourage  my  native  colleagues  to 
abide  by  their  post  of  honour.  Only  last  Tuesday  a 
man  was  killed  by  a  '  kidnapper.'  There  is  no  safety 
in  going  outside  of  the  house  after  dark.  In  some  cases 
the  kidnappers  enter  the  house,  close  or  surround  the 
doors,  dispatch  the  inmates,  and  make  their  escape.  In 
the  event  of  an  occurrence  of  this  sort,  I  suggested  that, 
instead  of  allowing  the  intruders  to  kill  us,  we  should 
close  in  on  them  and  bind  them. 

"  Colonel  Smythe  sent  a  native  messenger  to  request 
the  heathen  Chief  to  pay  him  a  friendly  visit.  The 
man  performed  his  errand,  and  delivered  his  message. 
The  enemy  then  clubbed  him,  and  sent  him  back  with 


172  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

the  remark,  that  if  two  had  been  sent,  one  would  have 
been  killed  and  eaten,  and  the  other  allowed  to  return 
and  report  the  fate  of  his  comrade.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances they  only  half-Mlled  him,  and  sent  the  other 
half  of  the  poor  man  to  tell  a  very  sad  tale  and  show 
his  wounds.  A  present  seemed  to  go  far  towards  heal- 
ing the  sores  inflicted  by  a  pine-apple  club." 

Mr.  Pritchard  did  not  think  it  advisable  to  go  further 
than  Nadroga,  whilst  Colonel  Smythe  proceeded  to  Vuda, 
Ba,  Vatia,  Na  Vatu,  and  thence  to  Naduri  on  Vanua 
Levu,  and  returned  to  Levuka  on  the  22nd  of  Septem- 
ber. Everywhere  the  chiefs  acquiesced  in  the  cession  of 
their  country  to  England. 


It  will  be  remembered  that  I  was  still  at  Namosi; 
and  I  must  beg  the  reader  to  return  with  me  to  that 
place. 


173 


CHAPTER  XI. 

FIJIAN   CANNIBALISM. — THE     GEEAT     CAULDEON. — NATTLUMATUA    AND     HIS 
APPETITE     FOE     HUMAN     FLESH. — BOKOLA. — VEGETABLES    EATEN     WITH 

CANNIBAL      FOOD. — THE     OMINOUS     TAEO. APPEOXIMATE     NUMBEE     OF 

BODIES  EATEN  AT  NAMOSI. — OVENS  FOE  BAKING  DEAD  MEN. — SUSPEN- 
SION OF  THE  BONES. — NOT  ALL  FIJIANS  CANNIBALS. — EFFOETS  OF  THE 
LIBEEAL  PAETY  TO  SUPPEESS  ANTHEOPOPHAGISM. — AIDED  BY  EUBO- 
PEANS. — EEAL  SIGNIFICANCE  OF  EATING  MAN  ONLY  PAETLY  UNDEB- 
STOOD. — CONCESSIONS  TO  HUMANITY. — ABOLITION  OF  CANNIBALISM 
THEOUGHOUT  ZUEUDUADUA's  DOMINIONS. 

WHEN,  in  August,  1856,  Dr.  Macdonald,  of  H.M.S.  He- 
rald, then  under  the  command  of  Captain  Denham,  and 
the  Rev.  Samuel  Waterhouse,  a  brother  of  the  gentle- 
man who  accompanied  us,  paid  a  visit  to  Kuruduadua's 
dominions,  cannibalism  was  still  one  of  the  recognized 
institutions  of  the  state.  "  A  few  days  ago,"  says  Dr. 
Macdonald,  "  a  large  canoe  from  Navua  went  out  on  its 
first  voyage,  when  a  fleet  of  the  enemy  from  Serua  at- 
tacked it,  and  succeeded  in  killing  one  man,  who  fell 
overboard.  The  Serua  people  now  dispersed,  and  the 
canoe,  on  returning,  landed  a  detachment  with  directions 
to  surprise  the  enemy  on  coming  ashore.  They  fell  in 
with  a  party  of  seven,  four  of  whom  were  killed,  two  fled, 
and  one  was  taken  prisoner.  The  latter  was  almost  im- 
mediately boiled  alive  in  a  large  cauldron.  Kuruduadua, 
the  perpetrator  of  this  cruelty,  addressed  him,  in  short 


174  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

terms,  to  the  effect  that,  as  he  had  so  wickedly  cut  to 
pieces  a  living  man  of  his  (Kuruduadua's)  people,  he 
should  be  served  as  the  case  deserved.  The  unfortu- 
nate man  was  then  thrust  headforemost  into  the  boil- 
ing pot.  The  greater  part  of  the  slain  was  eaten  at 
Navua,  but  parcels  of  the  revolting  food  were  distri- 
buted amongst  the  chiefs  dominions  in  the  mountains. 
On  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  August,  after  a  little 
parley  with  the  chief,  Naulumatua,  the  knee  of  a  dead 
body,  already  cooked,  was  brought  to  our  bure.  The 
bones  had  been  removed  by  an  incision  made  on  one 
side,  and  the  whole  was  carefully  wrapped  up  in  banana 
leaves,  so  as  to  be  warmed  up  each  day  in  order  to  pre- 
serve it.  Of  six  parcels  of  human  flesh  which  we  knew 
had  been  sent  to  Namosi,  this  was  all  we  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing.  One  leg  was  said  to  have  been  de- 
posited at  the  grove  of  Viriulu,  the  deceased  king  and 
father  of  Kuruduadua.*  Mr.  Waterhouse  spoke  to  the 
chief  very  impressively  on  the  subject,  pointing  out  all 
the  evils  which  follow  in  the  wake  of  cannibalism.  I 
saw  very  distinctly  that  this  savage  was  quite  ashamed  of 
himself;  but  I  saw  also  that,  if  he  did  feel  inclined  for 
the  tempting  morsel,  there  was  now  very  little  chance 
of  seeing  him  in  the  act:  but  for  my  own  part,  I  am 
quite  satisfied,  and  do  not  now  desire  further  ocular 
demonstration  of  the  existence  of  cannibalism  in  Fiji. 
We  have  now  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  portion 
of  the  last  bokola  (dead  body),  which  Naulumatua  as- 
serted had  been  placed  upon  the  rock  where  the  remains 

*  We  are  told  this  king's  name  was  "  Batuibuna,"  but  perhaps  he  went 
by  two  names. — B.  S. 


NAULUMATUA.  175 

of  the  last  chief  were  laid>  was  eaten  on  the  sly  by  this 
cannibal,  whose  morbid  taste  for  human  flesh  was  ac- 
knowledged by  all  the  people  in  the  town.  .  .  .  Tobi, 
one  of  our  party,  happened  to  stumble  into  the  chiefs 
house,  and  he  distinctly  saw  a  human  hand  hanging  in 
the  smoke  over  the  fireplace.  Now,  although  the  dis- 
tribution of  all  the  other  parts  had  been  accurately  de- 
tailed to  us,  no  mention  was  made  of  this,  so  that  the 
dissimulation  of  Naulumatua  was  clear  enough.  Most 
probably,  had  we  approached  the  spot,  the  inviting 
morsel  would  have  been  quickly  conveyed  out  of  the 
way.  Mr.  Waterhouse  was  informed  that  the  chief 
continued  to  eat  his  portion  at  intervals  throughout  the 
day,  until  it  was  all  demolished ;  but  an  old  favourite 
of  the  town  helps  him  out  with  it."  Thus  far  Mac- 
donald. 

Naulumatua  was  the  half-brother  of  Kuruduadua, 
and  only  died  a  short  time  previous  to  our  visit,  and  the 
court  was  still  in  mourning  for  him,  which  was  the 
reason  of  our  not  having  either  dance  or  song.  His 
head- wife  took  me  to  his  grave,  and  lamenting  his 
death,  said  that  he  might  still  be  alive  if  he  had  only 
abstained  from  eating  human  flesh,  and  that  both  she 
and  Danford  had  done  all  in  their  power  to  convince 
him  that  he  was  ruining  his  constitution  systemati- 
cally by  that  indulgence.  For  it  appears  that  human 
flesh  is  extremely  difficult  to  digest,  and  that  even  the 
strongest  and  most  healthy  men  suffer  from  confined 
bowels  for  two  or  three  days  after  a  cannibal  feast. 
Probably,  in  order  to  assist  the  process  of  digestion, 
"  bokola,"  as  dead  men's  flesh  is  technically  termed,  is 


176  A   MISSION   TO    V1TI. 

always  eaten  with  an  addition  of  vegetables,  which  it 
may  be  ethnologically  important  to  notice ;  since,  thanks 
to  a  powerful  movement  amongst  the  natives,  the  in- 
fluence of  commerce,  Christian  teaching,  and  the  pre- 
sence of  a  British  Consul,  Fijian  cannibalism  survives 
only  in  a  few  localities,  and  is  daily  becoming  more  and 
more  a  matter  of  history. 

There  are  principally  three  kinds  which,  in  Fijian  es- 
timation, ought  to  accompany  bokola, — the  leaves  of 
the  Malawaci  (Trophis  anthropophagorum,  Seem.),  the 
Tudauo  (Omalantlms  pedicellatus,  Bth.),  and  the  Boro- 
dina  (Solanum  anthropophagorum,  Seem.).  The  two 
former  are  middle-sized  trees,  growing  wild  in  many 
parts  of  the  group ;  but  the  Boro-dina  is  cultivated,  and 
there  are  generally  several  large  bushes  of  it  near  every 
Bure-ni-sa  (or  strangers'  house),  where  the  bodies  of 
those  slain  in  battle  are  always  taken.  The  Boro  dina 
is  a  bushy  shrub,  seldom  higher  than  six  feet,  with  a 
dark,  glossy  foliage,  and  berries  of  the  shape,  size,  and 
colour  of  tomatoes.  This  fruit  has  a  faint  aromatic 
smell,  and  is  occasionally  prepared  like  tomato  sauce. 
The  leaves  of  these  three  plants  are  wrapped  around 
the  bokola,  as  those  of  the  taro  are  around  pork,  and 
baked  with  it  on  heated  stones.  Salt  is  not  forgotten. 

Besides  these  three  plants,  some  kinds  of  yams  and 
taro  are  deemed  fit  accompaniments  of  a  dish  of  bokola. 
The  yams  are  hung  up  in  the  Bure-ni-sa  for  a  certain 
time,  having  previously  been  covered  with  turmeric,  to 
preserve  them,  it  would  seem,  from  rapid  decay:  our 
own  sailors  effecting  the  same  end  by  whitewashing  the 
yams  when  taking  them  on  board.  A  peculiar  kind  of 


A    WHOLE   TRIBE   EATEN.  177 

taro  (Caladium  esculentum,  Schott,  var.),  called  "  Ku- 
rilagi"  was  pointed  out  as  having  been  eaten  with  a 
whole  tribe  of  people.     The  story  sounds  strange,  but 
as  a  number  of  natives  were  present  when  it  was  told, 
several  of  whom  corroborated  the  various  statements, 
or  corrected  the  proper  names  that  occurred,  its  truth 
appears  unimpeachable.     In  the  interior  of  Viti  Levu, 
about  three  miles  N.N.E.  from  Namosi,  there  dwelt  a 
tribe,  known  by  the  name  of  Kai-na-loca,  who  in  days 
of  yore  gave  great  offence  to  the  ruling  chief  of  the  Na- 
mosi  district,  and,  as  a  punishment  of  their  misdeeds, 
the  whole  tribe  was  condemned  to  die.     Every  year  the 
inmates  of  one  house  were  baked  and  eaten,  fire  was  set 
to  the  empty  dwelling,  and  its  foundation  planted  with 
Jcurilagi.     In  the  following  year,   as  soon  as  this  taro 
was  ripe,  it  became  the  signal  for  the  destruction  of  the 
next  house  and  its  inhabitants,  and  the  planting  of  a 
fresh  field  of  taro.    Thus,  house  after  house,  family  after 
family,  disappeared,  until  Ratuibuna,  the  father  of  the 
present  chief  Kuruduadua,  pardoned  the  remaining  few, 
and  allowed  them  to  die  a  natural  death.    In  1860,  only 
one  old  woman,  living  at  Cagina,  was  the  sole  survivor 
of  the  Na-loca  people.     Picture  the  feelings  of  these 
unfortunate  wretches,  as  they  watched  the  growth  of  the 
ominous  taro  !    Throughout  the  dominions  of  the  power- 
ful chief  whose  authority  they  had  insulted,  their  lives 
were  forfeited,  and  to  escape  into  territories  where  they 
were  strangers  would,  in  those  days,  only  have  been  to 
hasten  the  awful  doom   awaiting  them   in  their  own 
country.      Nothing  remained   save    to    watch,    watch, 
watch,  the  rapid  development  of  the  kurilagi.     As  leaf 

N 


178  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

after  leaf  unfolded,  the  tubers  increased  in  size  and  sub- 
stance, how  their  hearts  must  have  trembled,  their  cou- 
rage forsaken  them  !  And  when  at  last  the  foliage  began 
to  turn  yellow,  and  the  taro  was  ripe,  what  agonies  they 
must  have  undergone  !  what  torture  could  have  equalled 
theirs  ? 

How  many  dead  bodies  have  been  eaten  at  Namosi,  it 
is  impossible  to  guess ;  but  as  for  every  corpse  brought 
into  the  town  a  stone  was  placed  near  one  of  the  bures, 
you  get  some  faint  idea  of  the  number.  I  counted  no 
less  than  four  hundred  around  the  Great  Bure  alone, 
and  the  natives  said  a  lot  of  these  stones — of  which 
the  larger  ones  indicated  chiefs — had  been  washed 
away,  when,  some  time  ago,  the  river  overflowed  its 
banks. 

On  some  of  the  T&vola(Terminalia)  trees  standing  about 
the  Great  Bure,  I  noticed  certain  incisions,  and  as  Mac- 
donald,  on  ascending  the  Rewa  river,  had  noticed  similar 
ones  at  the  town  at  Naitasiri,  and  was  told  that  they 
were  "  a  register  of  the  number  of  dead  bodies  (bokolas) 
brought  to  the  spot  to  be  offered  up  at  the  bure  before 
they  were  cooked  and  eaten,"  I  inquired  repeatedly 
after  their  meaning,  and  was  assured  by  various  persons 
that,  at  Namosi  at  least,  they  were  entirely  the  work  of 
children.  As  the  bark  of  the  Tavola-trees  is  as  smooth 
as  our  beech,  I  carved  my  name  on  the  largest  of  them  ; 
a  much  condemned  habit  of  our  race,  but  which,  in  re- 
mote corners  of  the  earth,  I  have  not  always  been  able 
to  resist. 

There  are  ovens  in  the  public  square  for  baking  dead 
bodies,  and  the  pots  in  which  human  flesh  is  boiled  or 


NOT   ALL   FIJIANS   CANNIBALS.  179 

jsteamed  are  not  devoted  to  any  other  culinary  purpose. 
Another  curious  circumstance  is,  that  whilst  the  natives 
eat  every  other  kind  of  food  with  their  fingers,  human 
flesh  is  eaten  with  forks,  having  three  or  four  prongs,  and 
generally  made  of  the  hard  wood  of  a  species  of  Casua- 
rina.  Every  one  of  these  forks  is  known  by  its  par- 
ticular, often  obscene,  name,  and  they  are  handed  down 
as  heirlooms  from  generation  to  generation ;  indeed  they 
are  so  much  valued,  that  it  required  no  slight  persuasion 
and  a  handsome  equivalent  to  obtain  specimens  of  them 
for  our  ethnological  collection. 

It  is  customary  to  suspend  some  of  the  bones  of  those 
human  beings  that  have  been  eaten  in  the  trees  before 
the  Bure-ni-sa ;  and  we  saw  several  of  these  trophies,  on 
some  of  which  was  growing  a  beautiful  little  fern  (Hemi- 
onitis  lanceolata^  Hook.),  not  previously  seen,  and  only 
gathered  afterwards  on  the  very  summit  of  Buke  Levu.* 

It  would  be  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  all  Fijians,  not 
converted  to  Christianity,  are  cannibals.  There  were 
whole  towns,  as  for  instance  Nakelo,  on  the  Rewa 
river,  which  made  a  bold  stand  against  this  practice, 
declaring  that  it  was  tabu,  forbidden  to  them  by  their 
gods,  to  indulge  in  it.  The  common  people  through- 
out the  group,  as  well  as  women  of  all  classes,  were 
by  custom  debarred  from  it.  Cannibalism  was  thus  re- 
stricted to  the  chiefs  and  gentry,  and  again  amongst 
them  there  is  a  number,  who  for  want  of  a  better  appella- 
tion may  be  called  the  Liberal  party,  and  who  never 

*  Mr.  Waterhouse  speaks  of  "  grinning  skulls  looking  down  on  us  ;" 
but  I  never  saw  any  skulls  at  this  place,  though  carefully  examining  all 
the  trees,  nor  do  I  know  for  certain  whether  that  part  of  the  body  is  ever 
suspended  in  trees. 

N  2 


180  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

eat  human  flesh,  nor  go  near  the  bures  when  any  dead 
bodies  have  been  brought  in,  and  who  abominate  the 
practice  as  much  as  any  white  man  does,  attributing  to 
it  those  fearful  skin  diseases  with  which  their  children 
are  so  often  visited.  But  their  opponents,  the  Conser- 
vatives, maintain  that  in  order  to  strike  terror  in  the 
enemy  and  lower  classes,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  for 
great  chiefs  and  gentry — a  duty  they  owe  to  society— 
to  eat  human  flesh.  The  feeling  which  the  common 
people  have  regarding  it  seems  somewhat  akin  to  the 
horror  inspired  by  that  part  of  our  nursery  tales  when 
the  giants  come  home,  and  begin  to  smell  the  children 
concealed.  The  same  enlightened  party  also  objects  to 
the  killing  of  women,  urging  that  it  is  just  as  cowardly 
to  kill  a  woman  as  a  baby.  But  here  again  those  who 
advocate  inhumanity  are  triumphant,  arguing  that  if  the 
women  are  killed  the  men  will  fret,  and  thus  suffer  an 
almost  direct  punishment ;  and  further,  that  as  whenever 
there  is  a  quarrel  a  woman  is  sure  to  be  at  the  bottom 
of  it,  justice  demands  that  her  sex,  having  caused  the 
bloodshed,  should  not  escape  scot-free. 

It  is  owing  to  this  powerful  ferment,  which  had  pe- 
netrated the  whole  Fijian  community,  that  cannibalism 
was  so  speedily  abolished  in  all  districts  where  Chris- 
tian missionaries  or  European  consuls  were  able  to  aid 
the  good  cause  by  supplying  the  combatants  with  fresh 
arguments,  and  backing  them  up  with  all  the  advan- 
tages derived  from  their  position  as  respected  foreigners. 
There  may  have  been,  and  I  dare  say  there  are  to  this 
day,  individual  natives,  who,  like  Naulumatua,  have  a 
morbid  appetite  for  human  flesh,  sufficient  opportunity  to 


SIGNIFICANCE    OF   ANTHROPOPHAGISM.  181 

gratify  it  to  an  alarming  extent,  and  who  could  no  more 
break  themselves  of  the  habit,  though  death  stared  them 
in  the  face,  than  any  confirmed  drunkard  can  of  his  vice. 
But  as  a  general  rule  boJcola  was  not  regarded  in  the 
shape  of  food;  and  when  some  of  the  chiefs  told  fo- 
reigners, who  again  and  again  would  attack  them  about 
a  custom  intimately  connected  with  the  whole  fabric  of 
their  society,  and  not  to  be  abolished  by  a  single  reso- 
lution, that  they  indulged  in  eating  it  because  their  coun- 
try furnished  nothing  but  pork,  being  destitute  of  beef 
and  all  other  kinds  of  meat,  they  simply  wished  to  offer 
some  excuse  which  might  satisfy  their  inquisitors  for 
the  moment, 

Fijians  always  regarded  eating  a  man  as  the  very  acme 
of  revenge,  and  to  this  day  the  greatest  insult  one  can 
offer  is  to  say  to  a  person,  "  I  will  eat  you."  In  any  trans- 
action where  the  national  honour  had  to  be  avenged, 
it  was  incumbent  upon  the  king  and  principal  chiefs 
— in  fact,  a  duty  they  owed  to  their  exalted  station — 
to  avenge  the  insult  offered  to  the  country  by  eating 
the  perpetrators  of  it.  I  am  convinced  however  that 
there  was  a  religious  as  well  as  a  political  aspect  of  this 
custom,  which  awaits  future  investigation.  Count  Stre- 
letzki,  whose  powers  of  observation  have  given  him  an 
insight  into  savage  life  few  travellers  have  attained  in 
so  eminent  a  degree,  fully  agreed  with  me  when  some 
time  ago  this  subject  was  the  topic  of  conversation  be- 
tween us.  There  is  a  certain  degree  of  religious  awe 
associated  with  cannibalism  where  a  national  institution, 
a  mysterious  hallow  akin  to  a  sacrifice  to  a  supreme 
being,  with  which  only  the  select  few,  the  tabu  class, 


182  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

the  priests,  chiefs,  and  higher  orders,  were  deemed  fit  to 
be  connected.  The  cannibal  forks  obtained  at  Namosi 
tended  to  confirm  this  belief.  There  was  the  greatest 
reluctance  to  part  with  them,  even  for  a  handsome  equi- 
valent, and  when  parted  with  displaying  them  was  ob- 
jected to.  This  I  thought  at  first  very  natural,  as  they 
were  said  to  be  heirlooms,  and  the  owners  did  not  like 
to  expose  themselves  to  the  odium  of  having  trafficked 
in  things  like  them.  But  when  afterwards  they  were 
shown  to  parties  who  could  know  nothing  of  the  trans- 
actions, their  faces  always  assumed  a  serious  aspect,  and 
they  were  most  anxious  that  I  should  put  the  forks 
out  of  sight,  especially  that  of  children.  My  handling 
them  seemed  to  give  as  much  pain  as  if  I  had  gone  into 
a  Christian  church  and  used  the  chalice  for  drinking 
water. 

When  visiting  Navua  for  the  first  time  in  June,  Mr. 
Pritchard  and  I  did  not  fail,  as  soon  as  we  had  suc- 
ceeded in  gaining  Kuruduadua's  confidence,  to  interpose 
the  influence  acquired  in  favour  of  humanity.  The 
chief  being  a  pagan,  it  was  useless  to  employ  any  Bibli- 
cal arguments,  and  we  had  therefore  simply  reason  to 
fall  back  upon.  One  of  the  first  concessions  he  con- 
ceded was,  that  as  has  already  been  detailed,  no  one 
should  be  clubbed  on  his  son  coming  to  manhood — a 
whole  town  having  originally  been  singled  out  for  that 
horrible  purpose.  It  took  him  several  days  to  consider 
our  proposition  with  his  leading  men ;  and  there  were 
long  and  warm  discussions  as  to  the  propriety  of  yield- 
ing to  our  request.  We  were  kept  well  informed  of  the 
progress  of  the  question  through  Danford,  who,  to  his 


"THE   LARGE    CAULDRON."  183 

praise  be  it  said,  did  all  he  could  to  bring  about  an 
issue  favourable  to  humanity.  At  last  Kuruduadua  in- 
formed us,  that  having  duly  considered  our  request  with 
his  councillors,  they  had  agreed  to  allow  the  Consul 
and  myself  to  put  on  the  scanty  clothing,  the  assump- 
tion of  which  marked  the  transition  from  boyhood  to 
manhood.  We  lost  no  time  to  break  through  a  custom 
which  will  now  never  be  repeated  in  the  district,  since 
the  son  of  a  governing  chief  dispensed  with  it. 

The  "large  cauldron"  which  Macdonald  mentions,'* 
but  did  not  see  himself,  stood  close  to  the  door  of  the 
chiefs  house.  Our  attention  was  drawn  to  it  by  our 
interpreter,  Mr.  Charles  Wise ;  and  the  very  thought 
was  agonizing  to  be  so  near  the  awful  vessel  in  which 
perhaps  many  a  human  being  had  been  boiled.  It  was 
one  of  those  large  iron  pots  used  by  traders  for  curing 
beche-de-mer,  or  sea-slugs,  so  plentiful  on  the  reefs  of 
Fiji,  and  a  valuable  article  in  the  Chinese  markets.  It 
was  large  enough  for  cooking  two  men  entire.  At  the 
mere  sight  of  it  my  imagination  ran  riot,  and  a  scene 
presented  itself  similar  to  that  in  the  last  act  of  Halevy's 
'  Jewess/  where  the  boiling  cauldron  is  ready  to  receive 
the  victim  of  Christian  intolerance.  The  nineteenth 
century  must  be  freed  from  so  shocking  a  spectacle,  and 
Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself  let  Kuruduadua  have  no  peace 
until  he  agreed  to  abolish  and  prohibit  cannibalism 
throughout  his  dominions.  A  few  months  earlier  he 
would  have  met  with  a  most  determined  opposition  in 
promulgating  such  a  law,  for  his  half-brother  at  Namosi, 

*  Journal  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London,  vol.  xxvii. 
p.  253. 


184  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

then  alive,  would  never  have  agreed  to  it ;  but  our  visit 
happened  just  at  the  right  time  in  order  to  crown  our 
endeavours  with  success. 

When  in  August  we  saw  the  cauldron  again,  it  was 
quite  rusty,  and  had  evidently  not  been  used.  Weeds 
were  growing  around  it,  and  a  creeper  was  trying  to 
cover  by  its  foliage  this  remnant  of  past  errors  and 
crimes.  Kuruduadua  had  evidently  kept  the  promise 
made  us,  caused  presents  of  human  flesh  sent  to  him 
to  be  buried,  and  given  strict  orders  that  even  in  the 
fight  impending  the  bodies  of  the  slain  enemies  should 
be  left  to  be  buried  by  their  friends,  and  on  no  consi- 
deration be  removed  by  his  own  people. 

Batinisavu,  who  succeeded  the  cannibal  Naulumatua  as 
governor  of  Namosi,  belonged  to  the  party  always  op- 
posed to  anthropophagism.  He  was  quite  a  young  man ; 
had,  according  to  all  accounts,  never  tasted  human  flesh  ; 
and  there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  great  friends  as  he 
was  with  Danford,  that  as  long  as  he  holds  the  post  no 
boJcola  will  be  seen  at  Namosi.  The  widows  of  the  late 
governor  paid  me  repeated  visits,  and  said  there  would 
be  no  more  cannibalism  at  Namosi,  since  Kuruduadua's 
orders  were  very  strict.  Soromato,  the  young  chief  who 
had  attached  himself  to  me,  asked  Danford  one  day 
whether  he  remembered  a  conversation  they  had  years 
ago,  when  he  was  a  very  young  boy,  and  in  which  he 
told  him  of  a  vow  he  had  made  never  to  kill  a  woman 
when  able  to  wield  a  club,  or  eat  human  flesh,  when  old 
enough  to  do  so.  Danford  said  he  well  remembered  it, 
as  it  struck  him  as  very  singular  that  a  mere  child  should 
feel  so  strongly  on  these  subjects  as  to  make  a  solemn 


SOROMATO'S   VOW.  185 

vow.    "  Well,"  Soromato  replied,  "  I  still  adhere  to  that 
determination,  and  shall  do  so  as  long  as  I  live.'1 

I  quote  this  as  a  specimen  of  the  way  in  which  a 
certain  party  of  heathen,  untaught  Fijians,  endeavour 
to  bring  about  the  same  reform  in  their  customs,  which, 
from  different  points  of  view,  and  with  different  means, 
their  best  friends  have  for  years  laboured  to  effect. 


186 


CHAPTER  XII. 

STAY    AT    NAMOSI    PROLONGED. THE     GOVERNOR'S     ATTENTION. — "  CROWN 

JEWELS." — THE  CLERK  OF  THE  WEATHER. — SORCERERS. — FIJIAN  FAMILY 
LIFE. — STORY-TELLERS    POPULAR. A    FIJIAN    TALE. 

THE  people  were  highly  pleased  when  they  heard  of  my 
resolution  to  stay  some  time  longer  with  them,  and 
treated  me  with  great  cordiality.  Batinisavu,*  one  of 
the  younger  brothers  of  Kuruduadua,  who  is  the  gover- 
nor of  Namosi,  was  never  tired  of  showing  me  atten- 
tion, and  shooting  ducks  and  fowls  for  me,  or  making 
different  kinds  of  puddings,  on  the  excellence  of  which 
he  prided  himself.  Chiefs  always  make  it  a  point  to 
excel  in  everything  they  undertake ;  and  this  is  no 
doubt  one  of  the  reasons  why  they  maintain  their  ascen- 
dency over  the  people.  They  build  canoes,  houses,  or 
temples,  in  a  style  and  with  a  finish  to  which  the  lower 
order  cannot  come  up;  in  agriculture  they  take  the 
lead ;  in  fighting,  rowing,  pulling,  racing,  and  all  manly 
exercises,  they  are  patterns  for  imitation ;  in  the  history, 
legendary  lore,  and  traditions  of  the  country,  they  carry 
off  the  palm ;  they  know  every  rock,  river,  plant,  and 
animal,  by  its  local  name,  and  can  give  some  account  of 
everything  connected  with  them.  If  to  all  this  be  added 

*  Batinisavu, — literally,  the  edge  of  a  waterfall. 


187 

that  their  physical  development  is  much  superior  to  that 
of  the  lower  classes,  that  they  are  not  only  taller  and 
better  made,  but  generally  possessed  of  much  handsomer 
features,  we  need  not  wonder  that  some  travellers  have 
thought  them  a  different  race  from  the  rest  of  their 
countrymen ;  and  that  in  their  own  land  they  have  been 
able  to  resist  all  democratic  levelling,  and  remain  to  this 
day  as  genuine  an  aristocracy  as  ever  existed,  because  in 
every  respect  a  superior  class. 

The  widow  of  the  late  governor  of  Namosi  asked  me 
to  see  the  "  crown  jewels  ''  in  her  charge.  They  were 
kept  in  a  wooden  box,  and  carefully  wrapt  up  in  soft 
pieces  of  native  cloth  and  cocoa-nut  fibre.  There  were 
among  them  a  large  whale's  tooth,  highly  polished, 
and  quite  brown  from  repeated  greasing,  a  necklace 
made  of  pieces  of  whales'  teeth,  the  first  that  ever  came 
to  these  mountains,  and  a  fine  cannibal  fork  in  the  shape 
of  a  club,  and  bearing  the  ominous  name  of  "strike 
twice,"  i.e.  first  the  man  and  then  his  dead  body.  The 
woman  told  me  a  lot  of  other  crown  property  had  been 
burnt  when,  some  years  ago,  the  Americans  destroyed 
Navua ;  among  it,  she  assured  me,  was  a  short  club  which 
would  kill  a  man  on  the  spot,  and  was  never  known  to 
miss  when  thrown  by  the  hand  of  the  supreme  chief. 
Whales'  teeth  are  with  the  Fijians  what  diamonds  are 
with  us,  and  in  former  days  there  wTas  no  favour  a  chief 
would  refuse  if  a  number  of  these  were  offered.  The 
European  and  American  traders  soon  found  this  out, 
and  did  not  fail  to  bring  quantities  whenever  they 
touched  at  these  islands.  The  consequence  has  been 
that  on  the  coast  and  amongst  the  christianized  popu- 


188  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

lation  whales'  teeth  have  suffered  considerable  deprecia- 
tion, though  they  have  not  as  yet  entirely  been  reduced 
to  their  proper  value.  In  the  interior  of  the  great 
island  they  maintain  their  old  importance,  and  Kuru- 
duadua,  on  seeing  us  handling  some  money,  expressed 
his  astonishment  that  we  should  prefer  coins  to  whale's 
teeth.  We  told  him  not  many  years  would  elapse  be- 
fore he  changed  that  opinion,  but  he  thought  that  time 
would  probably  never  come. 

During  my  stay,  one  of  the  days  was  rainy,  prevent- 
ing me  from  making  an  excursion.  On  expressing  my  re- 
gret to  that  effect,  a  man  was  brought  to  me  who  may 
be  called  the  "  clerk  of  the  weather."  He  professed  to 
exercise  a  direct  meteorological  influence,  and  said  that 
by  burning  certain  leaves  and  offering  prayers  only 
known  to  himself,  he  could  make  the  sun  shine  or  rain 
come  down,  and  that  he  was  willing  to  exercise  his  in- 
fluence on  my  behalf  if  paid  handsomely.  I  told  him 
that  I  had  no  objection  to  give  him  a  butcher's  knife  if 
he  could  let  me  have  fine  weather  until  my  return  to 
the  coast,  but  if  he  failed  to  do  so  he  must  give  me 
something.  He  was  perfectly  willing  to  risk  the  chance 
of  getting  the  knife,  but  would  not  hear  of  a  present  to 
me  in  case  of  failure ;  however,  he  left  to  catch  eels  for 
me.  When  returning,  the  clouds  had  dispersed  and 
the  sun  was  shining  brilliantly,  and  he  did  not  fail  to 
inform  me  that  "  he  had  been  and  done  it."  I  must 
further  do  him  the  justice  to  say  that  I  did  not  experi- 
ence any  bad  weather  until  I  fairly  reached  the  coast, 
and  that  no  sooner  had  I  set  my  foot  in  Navua  than 
rain  came  down  in  regular  torrents.  This  man  has 


A    CLEKK    OF   THE    WEATHER.  189 

probably  been  a  close  observer  of  the  weather,  and  dis- 
covered those  delicate  local  indications  of  a  coming 
change,  with  which  people  in  all  countries  living  much 
in  the  open  air  are  familiar,  and  he  very  likely  does  not 
commence  operations  until  he  is  pretty  sure  of  success. 

As  one  of  my  objects  in  Fiji  was  to  find  out  "all 
about  the  leaves,"  I  was  anxious  to  be  initiated  in  an 
art  productive  of  such  astonishing  results.      A  little  in- 
quiry, however,  convinced  me  that  an  initiation  would 
make  me  rather  an  object  of  fear  than  respect.     The 
adepts  in  the  art  of  Vaka-drau-ni-kau-taka  (literally,  to 
effect  with  leaves)  are  in  fact  regular  sorcerers,  whose 
craft  I  thought  it  prudent  not  to  join.     Not  satisfied 
with  causing  rain  and  sunshine,  they  exercise  a  direct 
and  much  more  criminal  influence  over  life  and  death, 
by  working  upon  the  superstitious  fears  of  the  natives 
to  such  an  excess  that  it  causes  serious  illness,  if  not 
death.     They  are  identical  with  the  disease-makers  of 
Tanna,  though  not  enjoying  such  a  prominent  position, 
and    accomplish    what    European    impostors    effected, 
and  in  some  districts  still  effect,  by  praying  to  death 
people  silly  enough  to  make  themselves  nervous  about 
any  influence  these  rogues  pretend  to   exercise.     If  a 
Fijian  wishes  to  cause  the  destruction  of  an  individual 
by  other  means  than  open  violence  or  secret  poison,  the 
case  is  put  in  the  hands  of  one  of  these  sorcerers,  care 
being  taken  to  let  this  fact  be   generally  and  widely 
known.     The  sorcerer  now  proceeds  to  obtain  any  arti- 
cle that  has  once  been  in  the  possession  of  the  person 
to  be  operated  upon.     These  articles  are  then  burnt 
with  certain  leaves,  and  if  the  reputation  of  the  sorcerer 


190  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

be  sufficiently  powerful,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  the 
nervous  fears  of  the  individual  to  be  punished  will 
bring  on  disease,  if  not  death ;  a  similar  process  is  ap- 
plied to  discover  thieves.  In  order  to  comprehend  the 
working  of  this  abominable  system,  and  the  mischief 
and  extortion  to  which  it  gives  rise,  one  must  take  into 
consideration  the  absolute  helplessness  of  the  Fijian,  in 
fact  the  Polynesian  generally,  when  anybody  has  ac- 
quired a  moral  ascendency  over  him.  A  certain  white 
settler  being  very  much  annoyed  by  a  native,  told  him 
in  as  powerful  language  as  he  could  muster,  that  he 
wished  him  dead,  and  that  he  had  no  doubt  he  would 
die  within  a  twelvemonth.  The  native  professed  to  treat 
this  prophecy  with  derision ;  nevertheless  on  calling 
about  a  year  afterwards,  the  foreigner  was  informed  that 
the  native  had  fretted  so  much  that  he  died.  The  words 
spoken  in  anger  had  thus  had  a  fatal  result,  and  the 
white  man  in  confiding  them  to  me  seemed  truly  sorry 
for  what  he  had  done. 

The  inhabitants  of  Namosi  on  being  asked  for  their 
name,  will  never  give  it  when  anybody  else  is  present 
to  answer  the  question.  I  inquired  for  the  reason,  but 
they  could  give  no  other  explanation  except  that  it  was 
their  custom.  It  probably  offends  their  dignity.  They 
feel  in  this  respect  more  acutely  than  ourselves,  who 
deem  it  polite  always  to  apologize  when  having  to  ask  a 
person's  name,  and  generally  endeavour  to  find  it  out  in 
a  less  direct  way. 

The  family  life  of  the  Fijian,  especially  in  places  like 
Namosi,  where  not  modified  by  Christian  teaching,  is 
very  curious.  The  men  sleep,  as  has  already  been  ob- 


FAMILY   LIFE.  191 

served,  at  the  Bure-ni-sa,  or  strangers'  house,  those  of 
about  the  same  age  generally  keeping  together,  whilst 
the  boys,  until  they  have  been  admitted  publicly  into 
the  society  of  adults,  have  a  sleeping  bure  to  themselves. 
It  is  quite  against  Fijian  ideas  of  delicacy,  that  a  man 
ever  remains  under  the  same  roof  with  his  wife  or  wives 
at  night.  In  the  morning  he  goes  home,  and  if  not  em- 
ployed in  the  field,  remains  with  his  family  the  better 
part  of  the  day,  absenting  himself  as  evening  approaches. 
Eendezvous  between  husband  and  wife,  of  which  no 
further  explanation  can  be  given,  are  arranged  in  the 
depths  of  the  forest,  unknown  to  any  but  the  two.  After 
childbirth,  husband  and  wife  keep  apart  for  three,  even 
four  years,  so  that  no  other  baby  may  interfere  with  the 
time  considered  necessary  for  suckling  children,  in  order 
to  make  them  healthy  and  strong.  This  in  a  great  mea- 
sure explains  the  existence  of  polygamy,  and  the  diffi- 
culties the  missionaries  had  to  contend  with  in  fighting 
against  its  abolition.  The  relatives  of  a  woman  take  it 
as  a  public  insult  if  any  child  should  be  born  before  the 
customary  three  or  four  years  have  elapsed,  and  they 
consider  themselves  in  duty  bound  to  avenge  it  in  an 
equally  public  manner.  I  heard  of  a  white  man,  who 
being  asked  how  many  brothers  and  sisters  he  had, 
frankly  replied,  uTen !"  "  But  that  could  not  be,"  was 
the  rejoinder  of  the  natives ;  "  one  mother  could  scarcely 
have  so  many  children."  When  told  that  these  chil- 
dren were  born  at  annual  intervals,  and  that  such  occur- 
rences were  common  in  Europe,  they  were  very  much 
shocked,  and  thought  it  explained  sufficiently  why  so 
many  white  people  were  "  mere  shrimps."  Adultery  is 


192  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

one  of  the  crimes  generally  punished  with  death ;  and 
Kuruduadua  himself  had  not  long  ago  one  of  his  ne- 
phews clubbed  for  taking  undue  liberties  with  one  of 
his  wives.  What  is  called  amongst  us  the  "  social 
evil,"  and  thought  to  be  an  unnatural  excrescence  of 
our  artificial  state  of  society,  is  not  unknown  amongst 
these  barbarous  races.  There  being  no  streets,  nymphs 
of  a  certain  description  waylay  travellers  on  the  high 
roads — a  direct  refutation  of  the  Mormon  argument, 
that  "  polygamy  is  the  only  cure  for  this  corruption  of 
our  great  cities." 

Fijians  have  been  charged  with  want  of  natural  affec- 
tion ;  and  the  strangulation  of  widows  on  the  death  of 
their  husbands,  and  the  killing  of  parents  when  beset 
with  the  infirmities  of  old-age  by  the  hands  of  their 
own  children,  have  been  advanced  as  proofs  thereof. 
Yet  these  facts  are  perhaps  the  best  arguments  that 
human  nature  is  not  different  in  the  Fijis  than  else- 
where. Affection  for  the  departed — of  course,  mis- 
taken affection — prompted  their  relatives  or  friends  to 
dispatch  widows  at  the  time  of  their  husbands'  burial ; 
and  the  widows  themselves  have  been  known  to  seek 
death  by  their  own  hands,  if  their  relatives  refused 
to  fulfil  that  duty  which  custom  imposed  upon  them. 
Even  widowers,  in  the  depth  of  their  grief,  have  fre- 
quently terminated  their  existence,  when  deprived  of  a 
dearly  beloved  wife.  On  the  death  of  a  near  relative 
people  will  cut  off  joints  of  their  fingers  in  order  to 
demonstrate  their  grief,  and  they  will  mourn  for  a  long 
time  for  their  lost  ones.  The  sentiment  of  friendship  is 
strongly  developed,  and  there  is  scarcely  a  man  who  has 


NATIVES   NOT   WITHOUT   NATURAL   AFFECTION.        193 

not  a  bosom  friend,  to  whom  he  is  bound  by  the 
strongest  ties  of  affection.  The  birth  of  a  child  is  a 
perfect  jubilee,  and  it  is  truly  touching  to  see  how 
parents  are  attached  to  their  children,  and  children  to 
their  parents.  Under  such  circumstances,  the  greatness 
of  the  sacrifice  that  children  are  sometimes  called  upon 
by  their  infirm  old  parents  to  terminate  their  suffer- 
ings by  putting  them  to  death,  becomes  evident.  It  is  a 
cruel  slander  of  the  native  character  to  put  any  other 
construction  on  this  singular,  though  mistaken  proof  of 
filial  affection.  In  a  country  where  food  is  abundant, 
clothing  scarcely  required,  and  property  as  a  general 
rule  in  the  possession  of  the  whole  family  rather  than 
that  of  its  head,  children  need  not  wait  "  for  dead  men's 
shoes,"  in  order  to  become  well  off,  and  wre  may,  there- 
fore, quite  believe  them  when  declaring  that  it  is  with 
aching  heart  and  at  the  repeated  entreaties  of  their  pa- 
rents that  they  are  induced  to  commit  what  we  justly 
consider  a  crime.  The  two  old  men  present  at  our 
meeting  at  Namosi,  were  living  proofs  that  children 
however,  even  in  these  wild  parts,  will  not  always  be 
induced  to  lay  hands  on  their  parents. 

I  told  a  native  who  sometimes  called  at  Danford's 
house,  and  seemed  to  be  a  most  respectable  man,  a  belief 
had  been  spread  in  our  country  that  the  Fijians  were 
almost  without  natural  affection.  He  replied,  there 
might  be  some  amongst  his  countrymen,  as  well  as  the 
whites,  who  had  not  much  feeling ;  but  those  who  de- 
nied the  Fijians  natural  affection,  either  understood  them 
very  little,  or  else  represented  them  in  such  black  co- 
lours for  some  purposes  of  their  own.  "  When  leaving 

o 


194  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

home,"  he  continued,  "all  my  thoughts  are  with  my 
family,  and  I  am  never  so  happy  as  when  I  am  under 
my  own  roof,  and  have  my  wife  and  children  around  me. 
When  a  few  days  ago  my  youngest  boy  was  ill,  I  sat  up 
with  him  three  nights,  and  it  would  have  broken  my 
heart  had  he  died."  The  man  was  a  savage,  a  heathen, 
yet  could  any  Christian  parent  have  spoken  more  warmly 
or  naturally  I  Fortunately,  affection  is  wisely  placed  by 
Providence  beyond  the  reach  or  influence  of  any  system, 
right  or  wrong.  Like  a  beautiful  flower,  it  springs  up 
freely  in  any  soil  congenial  to  its  growth.  If  the  Fi- 
jians  were  only  half  as  black  as  they  have  been  painted, 
they  would  long  ere  this  have  been  numbered  amongst 
the  extinct  races ;  for  no  society,  however  primitive,  can 
possibly  continue  to  exist,  if  the  evil  passions — the  de- 
structive elements — preponderate  over  the  good.  The 
best  vindication  of  their  national  character  is  their  na- 
tional existence ;  the  best  proof  of  their  living  a  life  as 
free  from  vice  and  corrupting  practices  as  any  heathen 
can  be  expected  to  live,  is  a  physical  development  on  an 
average  far  above  that  of  which  our  own  race,  with  all 
its  advantages  of  civilization,  can  ever  hope  to  boast. 

In  the  evenings,  Batinisavu  or  other  men  would  come 
and  entertain  me  with  some  of  those  innumerable 
stories,  in  which  the  natives  may  be  said  to  photograph 
themselves,  show  in  what  direction  their  fancy  wanders, 
and  which  no  travellers,  worthy  of  the  name,  should 
omit  writing  down.  The  supernatural  element  plays 
a  prominent  part  in  all  Fijian  stories,  and  whilst 
possessing  a  decidedly  local  colouring,  they  forcibly  re- 
mind one  of  our  own  nursery  tales.  The  natives  are 


BATINISAVU'S    STORY.  195 

very  fond  of  them,  and  a  good  story-teller  can  never 
starve.  Danford  informed  me  that  the  "  Arabian  Nights" 
have  been  a  source  of  income  to  him.  "  Aladdin,  or  the 
Wonderful  Lamp,"  is  paid  for  at  the  rate  of  two  fat  pigs, 
equivalent  to  about  eight  dollars ;  and  the  "  Forty 
Thieves "  meets  with  a  similar  success  whenever  that 
charming  tale  is  told,  several  friends  clubbing  together 
in  order  to  make  up  a  purse  for  the  story-tellers.  What 
a  source  of  pleasure  one  would  open  to  these  islanders, 
by  translating  for  them  the  "Arabian  Nights"  or 
Grimm's  "  Household  Stories." 

Chief  Batinisavu  was  always  careful  to  inform  me  that 
he  did  not  tell  stories  for  pay,  and  in  printing  one  of 
those  he  told  me  I  must  do  him  also  the  justice  to  add 
that  it  was  a  very  long  one.  Taking  up  several  hours 
in  telling,  I  can  merely  give  the  pith  of  the  whole,  and 
have  to  leave  out  those  details  which,  without  ample 
explanation  and  local  knowledge,  would  be  quite  unin- 
telligible and  uninteresting  to  the  generality  of  readers. 

THE  STOEY  OF  ROKOUA,  AS  TOLD  BY  BATINISAVU,  GOVEENOE 
or  NAMOSI. 

"  Once  upon  a  time  there  dwelt  at  Eewa  a  powerful 
god,  whose  name  wras  Ravovonicakaugawa,*  and  along 
with  him  his  friend  the  God  of  the  Winds,  from  Wairua.t 
Ravovonicakaugawa  was  leading  a  solitary  life,  and  had 

*  Ravovonicakaugawa,  i.  e.  a  long  way  off. 

f  This  god  was  and  is  supposed  to  reside  at  a  little  brook  in  the  lovely 
valley  of  Namosi,  on  Viti  Levu,  pointed  out  to  us  when  we  visited  the  in- 
terior of  the  island  in  September,  1860.  When  the  Eewa  people  come  to 
the  Namosi  valley,  they  never  fail  to  make  sacrificial  offerings  at  Wairua 
(which  is  both  the  name  of  the  locality  and  its  god).  Even  some  of  those 
that  have  become  Christians  continue  this  practice. 

O   2 


196  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

long  been  thinking  of  taking  a  wife  to  himself.  At  last 
his  mind  seemed  to  he  made  up.  '  Put  mast  and  sail  in 
the  canoe/  he  said,  '  and  let  us  take  some  women  from 
Rokoua,  the  God  of  Naicobocobo.'*  '  When  do  you 
think  of  starting  V  inquired  his  friend.  'I  shall  go  in 
broad  daylight,'  was  the  reply,  '  or  do  you  think  1  am 
a  coward  to  choose  the  night  for  my  work!'  All  things 
being  ready,  the  two  friends  set  sail,  and  anchored  to- 
wards sunset  off  Naicobocobo.  There  they  waited  one, 
two,  three  days,  without,  contrary  to  Fijian  customs,  any 
friendly  communication  from  the  shore  reaching  them, 
for  Rokoua,  probably  guessing  their  intentions,  had 
strictly  forbidden  his  people  to  take  any  food  to  the 
canoe.  Rokoua's  repugnance,  however,  was  not  shared 
by  his  household.  His  daughter,  the  lovely  Naiogabui,f 
who  diffused  so  sweet  and  powerful  a  perfume  that,  if 
the  wind  blew  from  the  east,  the  perfume  could  be  per- 
ceived in  the  west,  and  if  it  blew  from  the  west,  it  could 
be  perceived  in  the  east — in  consequence  of  which,  and 
on  account  of  her  great  personal  beauty,  all  the  young 
men  fell  in  love  with  her.  Naiogabui  ordered  one  of 
her  female  slaves  to  cook  a  yam,  and  take  it  to  the  fo- 
reign canoe,  and  at  the  same  time  inform  its  owner  that 
she  would  be  with  him  at  the  first  opportunity.  To  give 
a  further  proof  of  her  affection,  she  ordered  all  the  wo- 
men in  Naicobocobo  to  have  a  day's  fishing.  This  order 
having  been  promptly  executed,  and  the  fish  cooked, 
Naiogabui  herself  swam  off  with  it  during  the  night,  and 
presented  it  to  the  Rewa  God. 

*  Naicobocobo,  on  the  western  extremity  of  Vanua  Levu,  the  supposed 
starting-point  of  departed  spirits  for  Bulu,  the  future  place  of  abode, 
f  Naiogabui,  i.  e.  one  who  smells  sweetly. 


ROKOUA'S  WIVES.  107 

"  Eavovonicakaugawa  was  charmed  with  the  princess, 
and  ready  to  start  with  her  at  once.  She,  however, 
begged  him  to  wait  another  night,  to  enable  Naimila- 
mila,  one  of  Eokoua's  young  wives,  to  accompany  them. 
Naimilamila  was  a  native  of  Naicobocobo,  and  against 
her  will  united  to  Eokoua,  who  had  no  affection  what- 
ever for  her,  and  kept  her  exclusively  to  scratch  his  head 
or  play  with  his  locks,  hence  her  name.  Dissatisfied 
with  her  sad  lot,  she  had  concocted  with  her  step-daugh- 
ter a  plan  for  escape,  and  was  making  active  prepara- 
tions to  carry  it  into  execution.  On  the  night  agreed 
upon,  Naimilamila  was  true  to  her  engagement.  '  Who 
are  you  V  asked  the  god  as  she  stepped  on  the  deck. 
'I  am  Eokoua's  wife,'  she  rejoined,  'get  your  canoe 
under  weigh.  My  lord  may  follow  closely  on  my  heels, 
and  Naiogabui  will  be  with  us  immediately.'  Almost 
directly  after  a  splash  in  the  water  was  heard.  '  There 
she  comes,'  cried  Naimilamila,  '  make  sail ;'  and  instantly 
the  canoe,  with  Eavovonicakaugawa,  his  friend,  and  the 
two  women,  departed  for  Eewa. 

"  Next  morning,  when  Eokoua  discovered  the  elope- 
ment, he  determined  to  pursue  the  fugitives,  and  for 
that  purpose  embarked  in  the  '  Yatutulali,'  a  canoe  de- 
riving its  name  from  his  large  drum,  the  sound  of  which 
was  so  powerful  that  it  could  be  heard  all  over  Fiji. 
His  club  and  spear  were  put  on  board,  both  of  which 
wrere  of  such  gigantic  dimensions  and  weight,  that  it 
took  ten  men  to  lift  either  of  them.  Eokoua  soon 
reached  Nukuilailai,  where  he  took  the  spear  out,  and 
making  a  kind  of  bridge  of  it,  walked  over  it  on  shore. 
Taking  spear  and  club  in  his  hand,  he  musingly  walked 


198  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

along.  '  It  will  never  do  to  be  at  once  discovered/  he 
said  to  himself ;  ( I  must  disguise  myself.  But  what 
shape  shall  I  assume  1  That  of  a  hog  or  a  dog  I  As  a 
hog,  I  should  not  be  allowed  to  come  near  the  door ; 
and,  as  a  dog,  I  should  have  to  fetch  the  bones  thrown 
outside.  Neither  will  answer  my  purpose.  I  shall 
therefore  assume  the  shape  of  a  woman.'  Continuing 
his  walk  along  the  beach,  he  met  an  old  woman,  carrying 
a  basket  of  taro  and  puddings,  ready  cooked,  and,  with- 
out letting  her  be  at  all  aware  of  it,  he  exchanged  figures 
with  her.  He  then  inquired  whither  she  was  going, 
and,  being  informed  to  the  house  of  the  God  of  Rewa, 
he  took  the  basket  from  her,  and,  leaving  club  and  spear 
on  the  beach,  proceeded  to  his  destination.  His  disguise 
was  so  complete,  that  even  his  own  daughter  did  not  re- 
cognise him.  4  Who  is  that  V  she  asked,  as  he  was  about 
to  enter.  '  It  is  I,'  replied  Rokoua,  in  a  feigned  voice  ; 
4 1  have  come  from  Monisa  with  food.'  '  Come  in,  old 
lady,'  said  Naiogabui,  4  and  sit  down.'  Rokoua  accord- 
ingly entered,  and  took  care  to  sit  like  a  Fijian  woman 
would  do,  so  that  his  disguise  might  not  be  discovered. 
'  Are  you  going  back  to-night  V  he  was  asked.  '  No,' 
the  disguised  god  replied  ;  '  there  is  no  occasion  for  that.' 
Finding  it  very  close  in  the  house,  Rokoua  proposed  a 
walk  and  a  bath,  to  which  both  Naiogabui  and  Naimila- 
mila  agreed.  When  getting  the  women  to  that  spot  of 
the  beach  where  club  and  spear  had  been  left,  he  threw 
off  his  disguise,  and  exclaimed,  4  You  little  knew  who  I 
was ;  I  am  Rokoua,  your  lord  and  master,'  and,  at  the 
same  time  taking  hold  of  their  hands,  he  dragged  the 
runaways  to  the  canoe,  and  departed  homewards. 


HELP  FROM  THE  GODS.  199 

"  When  the  Rewa  god  found  his  women  gone,  he 
again  started  for  Naicobocobo,  where,  as  he  wore  no  dis- 
guise, he  was  instantly  recognized,  his  canoe  taken  and 
dragged  on  shore  by  Rokoua's  men,  while  he  himself  and 
his  faithful  friend,  who  again  accompanied  him,  were 
seized  and  made  pig-drivers.  They  were  kept  in  this 
degrading  position  a  long  time,  until  a  great  festival 
took  place  in  Vanua  Levu,  which  Eokoua  and  his  party 
attended.  Arrived  at  the  destination,  the  Rewa  god  and 
his  friend  were  left  in  charge  of  the  two  canoes  that  had 
carried  the  party  thither,  whilst  all  the  others  went 
on  shore  to  enjoy  themselves ;  but  as  both  friends  were 
liked  by  all  the  women,  they  were  kept  amply  supplied 
with  food  and  other  good  things  during  the  festival. 
Nevertheless  Ravovonicakaugawa  was  very  much  cast 
down,  and  taking  a  kava-root  (Yaqona),  he  offered  it  as 
a  sacrifice,  and  despairingly  exclaimed,  c  Have  none  of 
the  mighty  gods  of  Rewa  pity  on  my  misfortune  V  His 
friend's  body  became  instantly  possessed  by  a  god,  and 
began  to  tremble  violently.  '  What  do  you  want  V  asked 
the  god  within.  '  A  gale  to  frighten  my  oppressors  out 
of  their  wits.'  '  It  shall  be  granted,'  replied  the  god, 
and  departed. 

"The  festival  being  over,  Rokoua's  party  embarked 
for  Naicobocobo.  But  it  had  hardly  set  sail  when  a 
strong  northerly  gale  sprang  up,  which  nearly  destroyed 
the  canoes,  and  terribly  frightened  those  on  board. 
Still  they  reached  Naicobocobo,  where  the  Rewa  god 
prayed  for  an  easterly  wind  to  carry  him  home.  All 
Rokoua's  men  having  landed,  and  left  the  women  behind 
to  carry  the  luggage  and  goods  on  shore,  the  desired  wind 


200  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

sprang  up,  and  the  two  canoes,  with  sails  set,  started  for 
Rewa,  where  they  safely  arived,  and  the  goods  and  other 
property  were  landed  and  distributed  as  presents  among 
the  people. 

"  But  Rokoua  was  not  to  be  beaten  thus.  Although 
his  two  canoes  had  been  taken,  there  was  still  the  one 
captured  from  Ravovonicakaugawa  on  his  second  visit  to 
Naicobocobo.  That  was  launched  without  delay,  and 
the  fugitives  pursued.  Arriving  at  Nukuilailai,  Rokoua 
laid  his  spear  on  the  deck  of  the  canoe  and  walked  over 
it  on  shore,  as  he  had  done  on  a  previous  occasion. 
Landed,  he  dropped  his  heavy  club,  thereby  causing  so 
loud  a  noise  that  it  woke  all  the  people  on  Viti  Levu. 
This  noise  did  not  escape  the  quick  ear  of  Naimilamila. 
'  Be  on  your  guard/  she  said  to  her  new  lord,  '  Rokoua 
is  coming ;  I  heard  his  club  fall ;  he  can  assume  any 
shape  he  pleases ;  be  a  dog,  or  a  pig,  or  a  woman ;  he  can 
command  even  solid  rocks  to  split  open  and  admit  him, 
so  be  on  your  guard.'  Rokoua  meanwhile  met  a  young 
girl  from  Nadoi  on  the  road,  carrying  shrimps,  landcrabs, 
and  taro  to  the  house  of  the  god  of  Rewa,  and  without 
hesitation  he  asumed  her  shape,  and  she  took  his  without 
being  herself  aware  of  it.  Arriving  with  his  basket  at 
his  destination,  Naiogabui  asked,  'Who  is  there  V  To 
which  Rokoua  replied,  '  It  is  me ;  I  am  from  Nadoi, 
bringing  food  for  your  husband.'  The  supposed  mes- 
senger was  asked  into  the  house,  and  sitting  down,  he 
imprudently  assumed  a  position  not  proper  to  Fijian 
women.  This,  and  the  shape  of  his  limbs,  was  noticed 
by  Naiogabui,  who  whispered  the  discovery  made  into 
her  husband's  ear.  Ravovonicakaugawa  stole  out  of  the 


ROKOUA'S  END.  201 

house,  assembled  his  people,  recalled  to  their  minds  the 
indignities  heaped  upon  him  by  Rokoua,  and  having 
worked  them  up  to  a  high  pitch  of  excitement,  he  in- 
formed them  that  the  offender  was  now  in  their  power. 
All  rushed  to  arms,  and  entering  the  house  they  de- 
manded the  young  girl  from  Nadoi.  '  There  she  sits,' 
replied  Naiogabui,  pointing  to  her  father ;  and  no  sooner 
had  the  words  been  spoken,  than  a  heavy  blow  with  a 
club  felled  Rokoua  to  the  ground.  A  general  onset  fol- 
lowed, in  which  the  head  of  the  victim  was  beaten  to 
atoms.  This  was  the  end  of  Rokoua." 


202 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  NAMOSI. — VUNIWAIVUTUKA. — THE  "  VELI." — MODE  OF 
TATOOING  THE  MOUTH. — PASSING  DOWN  THE  NAVUA  RIVER. — NAGADI 
CLEARED  OUT  BY  ITS  VASU. — OUR  CANOE  CAPSIZED. — RETURN  TO  THE 
'  PAUL  JONES.' — KURUDUADUA'S  CHARACTER. — LEAVING  NAVUA. — BEGA. 
— MR.  STORCK'S  ILLNESS. — RETURN  TO  KADAVU. — ASCENT  OF  BUKE 
LEVU.  —  REWA.  —  IMMIGRANTS  FROM  NEW  ZEALAND. — MR.  MOOliE's 
POWERFUL  SERMON. — ARRIVAL  AT  LADO. — OFFICE  DRUDGERY. 

WHEN,  on  the  2nd  of  September,  I  left  Namosi,  there 
were  great  lamentations.  The  women  and  children 
cried  bitterly,  and  Batinisavu,  the  Governor  of  the 
place,  with  several  young  chiefs,  made  up  their  minds 
to  see  me  safe  to  the  coast.  I  had  witnessed  a  similar 
scene  after  the  departure  of  Colonel  Smythe  and  Mr. 
Pritchard,  and  heard  chiefs  and  people  regret  that  they 
were  gone,  and  would  probably  never  come  again.  I 
had  been  amongst  them  much  longer,  and  they  had  got 
used,  and,  in  some  instances,  quite  attached  to  me.  Can- 
nibals though  they  be,  they  have  many  good  qualities ; 
and  some  of  the  greatest  crimes  laid  to  their  door  may 
be  explained,  as  singular,  though  mistaken  demonstra- 
tions of  a  deep  natural  aifection. 

We  took  the  same  road  as  that  by  which  Mr.  Prit- 
chard and  his  party  had  returned,  and  in  the  afternoon 
reached  Vuniwaivutuka,  where  we  made  preparations 


ADULTERY   PUNISHED.  203 

for  staying  the  night.  Directly  on  our  arrival,  some  of 
the  leading  men  came  up  to  the  Bure-ni-sa  we  were 
stopping  at,  to  present  a  root  of  kava  to  Batinisavu,  as 
a  token  of  respect  and  goodwill,  and  making,  in  present- 
ing it,  a  neat  little  speech,  to  which  the  Namosi  Gover- 
nor replied  in  equally  friendly  terms.  Batinisavu  struck 
me  as  a  man  very  far  above  the  rest  of  his  countrymen. 
There  was  something  quiet  and  dignified  about  him; 
and  though  he  always  went  without  any  hesitation 
through  all  the  ceremonies  his  station  imposed,  he  often 
apologized  to  me  by  saying  it  was  "  Vaka  Viti  " — Fijian 
usage — which  he  could  not  set  aside. 

The  bures  are,  in  Fiji,  what  club-houses  are  with  us : 
everybody  goes  there,  and  all  the  news  finds  its  way 
thither.  The  great  topic  of  that  day's  conversation  was 
the  discovery  of  an  adultery  in  a  neighbouring  village. 
The  friends  of  the  woman  took  up  the  case.  The  bure 
to  which  the  adulterer  belonged  resisted  their  attack, 
and  the  consequence  was  a  series  of  broken  heads.  The 
chief  offender  escaped,  but  his  father  was  caught  and 
punished  for  his  son's  transgressions.  The  husband  of 
the  seduced  wife  had  his  taro-fields  destroyed,  and  was 
told  that  such  a  fool  as  he  did  not  deserve  to  possess 
them.  Batinisavu  strongly  censured  the  whole  proceed- 
ings. He  asked,  where  was  their  justice  ]  to  punish  the 
poor  old  father  for  his  son's  wickedness,  wras  simply  cruel, 
and  to  destroy  the  crops  of  an  already  injured  man, 
worthy  of  such  mountaineers  and  fools  as  they  were. 

No  one  can  be  long  in  this  region  of  "  taboo  "  and 
"  tatoo  "  without  perceiving  what  rich  stores  of  human 
fancy  and  ideas,  shortly  to  be  lost  or  mutilated  for  ever, 


204  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

are  here  offered.  Attention  is  constantly  directed  to 
them,  and  you  have  as  little  chance  of  remaining 
ignorant  of  the  great  deeds  of  Degei,  Rokoua.  and  the 
Vasu-ki-lagi,  as  you  have  in  the  East  of  the  stories  of 
successful  magicians,  spell-bound  princesses,  and  mighty 
treasures  concealed  in  obscure  caverns.  In  Kurudua- 
dua's  dominion  I  could  hardly  turn  without  hearing  of 
the  doings  of  the  Veli,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  even- 
ing at  this  place  was  again  devoted  to  them.  My  curi- 
osity had  already  been  so  much  excited  that  I  deter- 
mined, come  what  might,  to  write  their  natural  history 
in  the  very  localities  most  frequented  by  them.  By 
inquiry  and  frequent  cross-examination,  I  found  the 
Veli  to  be  a  class  of  spirits  in  figure  approaching  to  the 
German  gnome,  in  habits  of  life  the  fairy  of  England. 
They  have  been  in  the  country  from  time  immemorial, 
and  live  in  hollow  Kowrie-pines  and  Kabea-trees.  They 
are  of  diminutive  size,  and  rather  disproportionately 
large  about  the  upper  part  of  their  body.  Their  hair  is 
thick,  and  prolonged  behind  in  a  pig-tail.  Some  have 
wings,  others  have  not.  Their  complexion  rather  re- 
sembles that  of  the  white  race  than  the  Fijian.  They 
have  great  and  petty  chiefs ;  are  polygamists,  and  bear 
names  like  the  Fijians.  They  also  resemble  the  latter 
in  wearing  native  cloth  or  tapa,  which  however  is  much 
finer  and  whiter  than  the  ordinary  sort.  They  are 
friendly  disposed,  and  possess  no  other  bad  quality  than 
that  of  stealing  iron  tools  from  the  natives.  They  sing 
sweetly,  and  occasionally  gratify  the  Fijians  by  giving 
them  a  song.  They  feed  on  the  fruit  of  the  Tankua 
(Ptychosperma)  and  Boia  (Scitaminearum  gen.  nov.), 


THE   VELI   AND    THEIR   DOINGS.  205 

which  they  term  emphatically  their  cocoa-nut  and  their 
plantain ;  and  men  imprudent  enough  to  cut  down  these 
plants,  have  received  a  sound  beating  from  the  enraged 
Veli.  They  drink  kava  made,  not  of  the  cultivated 
Macropiper  methysticum,  but  of  a  pepper  growing  wild 
in  the  woods,  and  vernacularly  termed  Yaqoyaqona 
(Macropiper  pubendum,  Benth.).  The  Fijians  have  no 
long  stories  about  them,  as  they  have  about  their  gods. 
All  the  accounts  of  the  Veli  relate  to  isolated  facts,— 
to  their  abode,  their  having  been  seen,  heard  to  sing, 
caught  in  a  theft,  and  found  to  beat  the  destroyers  of 
their  peculiar  trees ;  but  they  are  so  numerous  that  it  is 
no  wonder  the  Fijians  should  consider  the  evidence  suffi- 
cient to  establish  their  real  existence. 

The  women  about  this  place,  as  well  as  about  Nagadi, 
were  tatooed  around  the  whole  mouth,  not  merely 
around  the  corners,  as  is  customary  on  the  coast.  The 
reader  may  smile  at  this  observation,  but  after  living 
awhile  amongst  natives  in  an  almost  absolute  state 
of  nudity,  the  eye  readily  detects  these  minute  differ- 
ences, and  the  mind  begins  to  comprehend  why,  on  pay- 
ing compliments,  these  people  dwell  with  such  em- 
phasis on  this  or  that  part  of  the  body,  when  a  Euro- 
pean, under  similar  circumstances,  would  record  his  ad- 
miration for  a  becoming  toilet,  whole  or  in  part.  In 
narrating  travels  in  barbarous  countries,  the  disadvan- 
tage of  the  people  not  wearing  clothes  is  acutely  felt. 
In  order  to  convey,  at  least,  some  notion  of  what  the 
personages  encountered  were  like,  one  is  compelled  to 
notice  their  arms,  legs,  and  other  parts  of  their  body, 
a  fact  for  which  one  is  not  always  inclined. 


206  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

The  next  morning  we  left  Vuniwaivutuka ;  and  after 
a  smart  walk  of  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  we  came  to  a 
branch  of  the  Navua  river,  where  Batinisavu  had  a  raft 
of  bamboos  prepared.  It  seemed  a  very  rickety  contri- 
vance ;  nevertheless  it  was  strong,  and  there  was  no 
chance  of  capsizing  in  passing  over  rapids.  But  I  found 
it  impossible  to  keep  my  collections  dry,  so  four  of  the 
boys  took  them  on  their  backs  to  Navua.  We  then 
passed  down  the  river  rapidly,  and  about  noon  reached 
the  town  of  Nagadi,  where  we  had  stopped  a  night  on  a 
previous  occasion.  There  we  intended  to  exchange  our 
raft  for  a  large  canoe,  but  this  intention  was  frustrated. 
On  that  very  day  the  "  Vasu "  to  Nagadi  had  taken 
away  all  the  canoes,  and  other  articles  of  the  town  that 
took  his  fancy.  A  "  Vasu  "  is  a  mighty  personage  in 
Fiji.  He  is  simply  a  nephew,  but,  according  to  the 
usage  of  the  country,  he  holds  all  the  movable  property 
of  his  uncle  at  his  absolute  disposal,  and  can  at  any 
moment  take  whatever  he  chooses.  There  are  vasus 
not  only  to  families,  but  to  towns  and  states,  and  it  is 
considered  shabby  to  resist  their  exactions.  Some  vasus 
have  even  sold  the  land  belonging  to  their  uncles,  but 
Fijians  say  that  is  going  a  little  too  far,  and  exceeds  the 
proper  limits  of  the  system.  If  therefore  the  uncles 
wish  to  keep  anything  to  themselves,  they  must  not  let 
their  nephews  see  it.  I  remember  Batinisavu,  having  a 
grasping  nephew,  and  several  American  hatchets  given 
him,  begged  Danford  to  keep  them  at  his  house,  so  that 
the  vasu  might  not  get  wind  of  their  existence.  Of  course 
the  Vasus  are  expected  to  make  some  return,  and  the 
Vasu  to  the  town  of  Nagadi,  living  on  the  sea-coast, 


OUR    CANOE    CAPSIZED.  207 

where  salt  is  abundant,  had  presented  the  people,  whom 
he  had  cleared  out  of  almost  everything,  with  a  supply 
of  that  useful  article,  for  they  assured  us  they  had  no 
canoes  left  to  get  across  the  river,  and  should  have  to 
commence  that  very  day  to  build  new  ones.  On  push- 
ing down  the  river,  we  overtook  the  flotilla,  heavily 
laden  with  goods  of  all  descriptions,  and  had  no  diffi- 
culty in  getting  the  loan  of  a  canoe  to  Navua.  We  had 
little  reason  to  congratulate  ourselves  on  this  change. 
At  the  next  rapid  we  could  not  bale  faster  than  the 
water  came  in  at  the  stern ;  the  outrigger  lost  its  balance, 
and  in  another  moment  the  canoe  was  capsized.*  Soro- 
mato,  my  faithful  friend,  by  a  desperate  dash  saved  a 
bundle  of  my  clothes,  including  cloak,  and  succeeded  in 
getting  them  on  shore  dry.  Having  been  up  to  my  neck 
in  water,  I  felt  very  thankful  to  Soromato.  The  natives 
kindled  a  fire  on  a  gravelly  spot,  and  two  of  the  boys 
had  to  chew  kava,  which,  in  the  absence  of  a  proper 
bowl  and  straining  fibres,  was  made  in  large  leaves  and 
squeezed  through  ferns. 

The  canoe  being  baled  out,  and  put  again  in  proper 
order,  we  continued  our  voyage,  and  without  any  further 
mishap  reached  Navua.  Kuruduadua  met  us  close  to 
the  town ;  he  had  been  all  day  busy  in  the  field,  and 
said  he  had  a  great  number  of  people  staying  with  him 
to  assist  in  his  agricultural  labours.  When  we  stepped 
on  shore,  supper  was  just  being  presented  to  them.  It 
was  an  immense  heap  of  provisions,  and  though  there 
were  probably  two  hundred  visitors,  there  must  have 
been  ample  for  all. 

*  In  our  Plate  representing  Koro  Basabasaga  will  be  seen  a  good  speci- 
men of  a  Fijian  river-canoe  with  its  outrigger. 


208  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

As  the  houses  were  crowded,  I  was  very  glad  to  learn 
that  the  '  Paul  Jones,'  with  Mr.  Pritchard  on  board, 
had  arrived  from  Nadroga,  and  was  then  anchored  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  Two  of  the  crew  soon  after 
made  their  appearance  in  the  dingy  belonging  to  the 
schooner,  and  I  availed  myself  of  the  chance  to  get  on 
board.  On  paddling  down  the  river  we  encountered 
several  heavy  showers ;  the  clerk  of  the  weather  at 
Namosi  had  only  guaranteed  sunshine  until  I  should 
have  fairly  reached  the  coast,  and  now  I  was  again  in 
the  region  of  salt  water,  mangrove-trees,  and  sago 
swamps.  We  took  shelter  under  a  thick  tree,  and  with 
my  umbrella-parasol  I  kept  myself  tolerably  dry.  The 
people  living  on  the  high  banks  under  which  we  had 
halted,  soon  espied  us,  and  invited  us  to  come  into 
their  houses.  When  we  refused  on  account  of  its  get- 
ting too  late  to  reach  the  schooner,  they  brought  some 
hot  yams  and  taro,  and  one  of  the  boys  was  sent  up  a 
cocoa-nut  palm,  slippery  though  the  trunk  was,  to  knock 
down  some  nuts  for  drinking.  We  gave  them  some 
sticks  of  tobacco,  of  which  they  were  very  glad,  and  all 
parted  with  mutual  expressions  of  goodwill. 

I  took  leave  of  Batinisavu,  the  Namosi  Governor,  at 
Navua,  and  shall  always  remember  his  kindness.  Ku- 
ruduadua  came  on  board  that  night,  and  Danford  ac- 
companied him.  Though  he  had  publicly  declared  in 
favour  of  the  cession  of  Fiji  to  England,  he  had  not  as 
yet  formally  signed  the  deed  of  cession.  As  he  is  one 
of  the  most  powerful  chiefs,  it  was  important  to  have 
his  signature,  and  in  the  evening  he  affixed  his  mark  to 
that  document;  Mr.  Charles  Wise  having  once  more 


KURUDUADUA'S  CHARACTER,  209 

carefully  translated  the  import  of  the  paper,  and  I  at- 
testing the  chiefs  signature. 

Whilst  sitting  in  the  little  cahin  of  the  schooner, 
Kuruduadua  asked  about  a  variety  of  subjects,  and  ge- 
nerally exclaimed,  "Ah!  ye  white  men  are  superior 
people.  We  are  ignorant  savages !"  He  was  much 
pleased  with  that  volume  of  Wilkes's  '  Narrative  of  the 
United  States  Exploring  Expedition  '  relating  to  Fiji  and 
Tonga.  Indeed,  all  the  natives  who  saw  it  were  en- 
raptured with  that  beautiful  publication.  So  faithful 
are  the  representations  of  places  and  persons,  that  the 
natives  instantly  recognized  them.  The  portraits  of 
Tanoa,  the  father  of  King  Cakobau,  and  that  of  the 
Queen  of  Rewa,  pleased  them  mightily.  They  always 
exclaimed,  "  They  live  !  They  can  see  !  They  speak  !" 
I  wish  the  artist  had  been  there  to  hear  the  praise  la- 
vished upon  his  productions. 

Kuruduadua  left  very  late,  and  Danford  went  with 
him.  Always  making  it  a  point  to  speak  of  people  as 
I  find  them,  I  have  nothing  to  say  except  what  is  in 
their  favour.  Both  of  them  had  been  of  the  greatest 
service  to  us,  and  behaved  well.  Kuruduadua  we  found 
an  intelligent,  straightforward  man,  quite  ready  to  listen 
to  reason,  prepared  to  come  up  to  any  obligations  he 
had  taken  upon  himself,  and  detesting  all  half-measures, 
all  sham.  Of  Danford  I  have  already  spoken.  He  has 
been  a  pioneer,  whose  services  in  that  direction  I  should 
not  be  inclined  to  undervalue,  and  without  whom  one 
of  the  most  interesting  episodes  of  my  life  would  pro- 
bably not  have  occurred. 

We  finally  left  the  Navua  river  on  the  5th  of  Sep- 

p 


210  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

tember,  and  stood  over  to  Bega  (  =  Mbenga),  an  oval- 
shaped  island,  about  five  miles  long  by  three  wide,  sub- 
ject to  Rewa,  and  in  some  measure  to  Kuruduadua.  No 
sooner  had  we  cast  anchor  than  Mr.  Don,  an  English- 
man, came  to  the  Consul,  complaining  that  the  natives, 
under  pressure  from  the  Tonguese,  wished  to  compel 
him  to  let  them  have  back  again  the  land  which  he 
had  bought,  as  they  had  given  the  island  of  Bega  to  the 
Tonguese.  Mr.  Pritchard  went  to  the  man  who  repre- 
sented himself  as  the  principal  chief,  and  told  him  that 
Mr.  Don  totally  rejected  the  offer  of  ten  fat  pigs,  or  any 
other  equivalent  for  the  land  he  had  acquired,  and  if 
they  had  given  their  island  to  the  Tonguese,  it  was  by 
no  means  binding,  Maafu,  the  Tonguese  chief,  having 
publicly  renounced  all  claims  on  and  in  Fiji ;  and,  until 
her  Britannic  Majesty's  pleasure  was  known,  the  cession 
of  Fiji  to  England  was  valid,  and  could  not  be  ignored. 
Two  Tonguese  present  tried  to  argue  the  point,  but  were 
signally  defeated  by  one  no  novice  in  native  tactics. 

One  of  our  reasons  for  making  Bega  was  to  obtain 
some  oil  of  the  Dilo  (Calophyllum  inophyllum.  Linn.),  an 
excellent  liniment  for  rheumatism,  pains  in  the  joints, 
bruises,  etc.,  and  enjoying  a  high  reputation  throughout 
the  South  Sea.  Mr.  Storck,  my  able  assistant,  had— 
after  quite  recovering  from  his  fall  in  Somosomo — com- 
mitted the  imprudence,  whilst  paying  a  visit  to  his  friend 
Peter,  the  King's  councillor,  at  Bau,  to  sleep  a  night 
between  two  open  doors  on  a  matted  floor  of  a  new 
house,  in  consequence  of  which  he  had  gradually  be- 
come so  stiff  as  ultimately  to  be  unable  to  move  even 
his  hands.  We  had  to  dress  him,  put  him  to  bed,  and 


MR.  STORCK'S  ILLNESS. — BEGA.  211 

even  feed  him,  his  appetite  being  good  all  the  while; 
and  he,  poor  fellow,  was  so  helpless  that  at  one  time  he 
was  falling  in  the  sea,  and  only  saved  by  the  presence  of 
mind  of  one  on  board.  All  the  Fijian  doctors  recom- 
mended the  external  application  of  Dilo  oil ;  and  for 
some  calico  we  obtained  two  gourd-flasks  full,  with  which 
the  patient  was  rubbed  several  times  a  day.  Fortunately 
our  voyage  was  drawing  to  a  close ;  and  I  am  happy  to 
add,  the  greater  comfort  and  change  of  food  at  Ovalau 
soon  restored  him  to  perfect  health. 

We  intended  to  proceed  from  Bega  direct  to  Ovalau, 
but  towards  evening  the  weather  became  so  fine — 
every  sign  of  rain  having  disappeared — that  the  idea 
struck  us  to  run  over  once  more  to  Kadavu,  and  ascend 
if  possible  Buke  Levu,  the  great  mountain.  The  passage 
between  Bega  and  Kadavu  being  an  open  sea,  and  we 
having  a  good  pilot  on  board,  in  the  person  of  Mr. 
Charles  Wise,  the  consular  interpreter,  we  left  Bega  just 
whilst  the  sun  was  gilding  the  feathery  tops  of  the 
cocoa-nut  palms,  and  diffusing  a  bright  hue  over  the 
white  coral  beaches. 

Sailing  all  night,  daybreak  disclosed  the  bold  out- 
line of  Buke  Levu,  a  mountain  3800  feet  high,  situate 
on  the  north-west  point  of  Kadavu,  and  deriving  its 
name  from  a  certain  resemblance  to  the  hillocks  (Buke) 
on  which  yams  are  planted;  hence  Buke  Levu,  the 
"  large  yam  hill."  No  white  man  had  ever  ascended 
it,  and,  though  laid  down  in  the  latest  maps,  its  very 
name  was  not  recorded.  It  will  be  remembered  that 
we  had  made  two  distinct  efforts  to  reach  its  summit,  but 
were  baffled  by  gales  and  rain.  We  now  were  about  to 

p  2 


212 


A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 


make  the  third.  On  bringing  our  little  schooner  to 
anchor  off  the  town  of  Taulalia,  heavy  showers  overtook 
us,  and  we  began  to  despair  of  ever  attaining  our  object, 
when  about  nine  o'clock  it  suddenly  cleared  up.  The 
natives,  who  had  been  watching  from  the  beach,  could 
not  understand  our  hesitation  in  not  landing  at  once, 
and  in  proof  of  their  friendly  disposition,  brought  out 
their  women  and  children  ;  and,  moreover,  carried  green 
boughs,  as  the  soldiers  do  in  Macbeth,  when  "  Birnam 
wood  removes  to  Dunsinane/' 


BUKE    LEVU,    SEEN    FROM    THE    SOUTH. 

On  learning  our  object  in  coming  to  their  town,  fifteen 
men  and  boys  cheerfully  volunteered  to  accompany  us. 
The  ascent  commenced  the  moment  we  left  Taulalia, 
and  passing  over  cultivated  grounds  where  the  people 
were  busy  with  their  crops  of  sugar-canes,  yams,  taros, 
and  plantains,  we  reached  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
a  village,  where  another  party  of  natives  joined  us,  and 
where  we  saw  some  fine  plants  of  the  different  kinds  of 


ASCENT  OF  BUKE  LEVU.  213 

kava,  for  which  Kadavu  is  renowned.  A  narrow  path, 
often  winding  along  precipices  and  through  rivulets,  led 
to  about  1500  feet  elevation,  where  it  gradually  faded 
away,  and  the  isolated  patches  of  cultivation  noticed  up 
to  this  height,  as  well  as  the  wood  which  had  re-occu- 
pied ground  at  one  time  cleared  and  the  masses  of  reeds 
gave  place  to  an  undisturbed  virgin  forest,  through 
which  we  had  to  cut  our  way.  We  had  taken  the  pre- 
caution of  bringing  a  strong  rope,  sixty  feet  long,  which, 
made  fast  to  trees,  proved  extremely  useful  in  dragging 
ourselves  up  almost  perpendicular  rocks,  in  the  rainy 
season  occupied  by  waterfalls,  and  even  at  this  time  of 
the  year  very  slippery.  On  some  of  these  were  found  a 
number  of  delicate  ferns  (Hymenopkyllum\  and  quite  a 
new  species  of  land-shell  (Bulimus  Seemanni,  Dohr.), 
fully  two  inches  long,  and  of  a  bright  salmon-colour. 

In  order  to  save  time,  we  had  directed  one  of  our  men 
to  push  ahead  and  prepare  a  camp-kettle  full  of  tea — 
of  all  beverages  the  best  when  one  is  tired  and  heated. 
When  at  last,  after  great  exertion  and  frequent  stopping 
to  examine  objects  of  interest,  we  reached  the  top,  he 
and  half-a-dozen  others  were  already  there,  but  they  had 
omitted  to  bring  either  matches,  firesticks,  or  water; 
and  even  the  cocoa-nuts,  packed  up  with  the  rest  of  the 
day's  provisions,  were  too  old  for  drinking.  Being  ex- 
tremely thirsty,  we  could  not  touch  food,  hungry  though 
we  were.  The  natives  declared  the  nearest  water  to  be 
more  than  1000  feet  down,  and,  as  they  had  not  the 
proper  wood,  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  kindle  fire 
by  friction.  However,  a  man  must  have  read  '  Kobinson 
Crusoe '  to  little  purpose,  if  his  resources  fail  him  in 


214  A   MISSION    TO    VITI. 

moments  like  these.  We  were  determined  not  to  let 
our  explorations  come  to  a  sudden  stop  for  want  of 
something  to  drink.  Mr.  Pritchard  left  me  the  option 
between  procuring  fire  or  water ;  to  guard  against  lame 
excuses  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  it  being  thought  ne- 
cessary that  one  of  us  should  go  with  them  in  search  of 
a  spring.  Knowing  what  a  hard  job  it  was  to  make  fire 
by  rubbing,  without  pausing,  two  pieces  of  wood  to- 
gether, especially  in  the  tropics,  I  declared  in  favour  of 
getting  the  water.  My  companion,  who  did  not  seem  to 
relish  descending  so  many  feet  and  climbing  up  again, 
was  evidently  pleased  with  his  lot.  In  spite  of  all  the 
natives  were  saying  about  making  the  wood  answer, 
he  resolutely  began  rubbing  away.  Great  exertions 
were  required ;  hat,  jacket,  vest,  and  necktie  discarded, 
to  obtain  greater  freedom  of  action.  At  last  came  the 
reward.  The  wood  began  to  smoke,  sparks  appeared, 
went  out  again,  reappeared,  and,  brought  in  contact  with 
a  piece  of  bark-cloth  cut  off  the  tail  of  a  boy's  dress, 
soon  produced  a  flame. 

All  this  time  I  had  been  sitting  on  an  old  stump, 
feigning  to  be  quite  insensible  to  certain  broad  hints 
about  the  desirableness  of  looking  after  the  execution 
of  my  part  of  the  contract.  When  the  first  flame  had 
appeared  I  at  last  bestirred  myself,  and  to  the  surprise  of 
the  fire-kindler,  instead  of  going  a  long  way  for  water, 
climbed  up  a  neighbouring  tree  on  which  I  had  noticed 
an  epiphytical  plant  (Astelia  montana,  Seem.),  the  leaves 
of  which ,  acting  as  a  kind  of  rain-gauge,  were  filled 
with  pure  water :  by  merely  emptying  these  the  necessary 
supply  was  obtained.  Ere  long,  tea  was  ready,  and  re- 


A    FINE    VIEW.  215 

lished  all  the  more  from  recalling  to  mind  the  long  es- 
tablished connection  between  cups,  slips,  and  lips. 

After  all  hands  had  partaken  of  refreshment,  a  num- 
ber of  trees  were  felled  in  order  to  gain,  if  possible,  a 
view,  the  top  of  Buke  Levu  being  densely  wooded.  No 
sooner  had  this  been  accomplished  than,  to  our  joy,  the 
clouds  which  up  to  this  time  had  been  interposed  be- 
tween us  and  the  region  below,  dispersed,  disclosing  a 
great  part  of  Kadavu  and  the  sea.  Our  little  schooner 
was  snugly  lying  at  anchor,  flying  the  British  colours  ; 
but  we  listened  in  vain  for  the  signal  guns  which  the 
men  had  been  directed  to  fire  as  soon  as  they  should 
perceive  the  smoke  of  our  fire,  intensified  at  intervals 
by  throwing  heaps  of  green  leaves  upon  it.  We  after- 
wards learned  that  it  had  been  found  impossible  to  dis- 
tinguish between  smoke  and  clouds.  A  large  native 
canoe,  with  its  white  triangular  sail,  was  seen  approaching 
the  shore,  and  the  blasts  of  the  conch  shells  could  be 
heard  distinctly,  though  we  were  nearly  4000  feet  high ; 
otherwise  there  was  a  deep  silence,  only  occasionally 
broken  by  the  dogs,  which  have  become  naturalized 
in  these  wilds,  as  the  domestic  fowls  have  in  other 
parts  of  the  group.  The  vegetation  encountered  was  si- 
milar to  that  of  Voma  Peak  in  Viti  Levu ;  there  were 
the  same  bright  orange-coloured  orchids  (Dendrobium 
Mohlianum,  Reichb.  fil.)  and  the  epiphytical  ferns,  but 
also  several  new  species  of  plants.  The  Cinnamomum 
furnishing  a  superior  kind  of  Cassia-bark  was  here  as 
plentiful  as  in  Great  Fiji;  a  kind  of  Gummi  Guttae 
(Clusia  sessilis,  Forst.)  also  engaged  our  attention.  Buke 
Levu  is  evidently  an  extinct  volcano ;  and  hot  springs 


216  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

at  its  foot,  near  the  town  of  Nasau,  ascertained  by 
Colonel  Smythe  to  be  144°  Fahrenheit,  may  possibly 
stand  in  some  connection  with  its  former  activity.  The 
outward  look  of  the  summit  is  very  much  like  the  cone 
of  Vesuvius,  as  it  was  when  I  ascended  it  in  1861 ;  but 
we  did  not  discover  any  large  crater,  simply  an  insigni- 
ficant swamp. 

Having  left  on  one  of  the  trees  a  well-corked  bottle 
containing  the  record  of  our  visit, — that  of  the  first 
white  men  who  ever  ascended  the  mountain, — we  com- 
menced the  descent,  which  presented  in  some  parts  se- 
rious difficulties,  but,  thanks  to  our  rope,  we  overcame 
them  all ;  only  one  of  the  lads  had  a  rather  serious 
tumble,  by  which  he  sprained  his  ankle.  Before  we 
were  more  than  halfway  down  it  was  completely  dark, 
when  the  natives  lit  bundles  of  reeds  and  the  stems  of 
a  weed  (Erigeron  albidum,  A.  Gray),  both  of  which 
make  excellent  torches.  On  arriving  at  the  first  grove 
of  cocoa-nut  palms  a  general  halt  was  made,  and  heaps 
of  nuts  were  brought  down  from  the  trees  and  emp- 
tied of  their  contents  with  astonishing  rapidity.  It  was 
past  nine  o'clock,  just  twelve  hours  after  we  started, 
when  we  reached  Taulalia,  where  the  whole  village  was 
assembled  at  and  about  the  house  of  the  Wesleyan 
teacher,  a  Fijian  by  birth,  and  our  native  companions 
had  to  give  a  most  circumstantial  account  of  our  day's 
proceedings. 

We  slept  at  the  house  of  the  teacher,  which  we  found 
clean  and  comfortable.  Early  next  morning  all  who  had 
accompanied  us  had  to  sit  in  a  row, — and  a  nice  long  row 
it  was, — and  every  one  received  a  butcher's  knife,  which 


INCONVENIENCE    OF   BARTERING.  217 

elicited  much  clapping  of  hands,  in  proof  that  the  gift  was 
accepted  :  money  would  not  have  pleased  half  as  much, 
as  its  use  is  not  understood.  All  payments  are  made  in 
kind, — a  most  irksome  and  cumbrous  way,  compelling  you 
to  carry  a  whole  heap  of  things  to  defray  the  current  ex- 
penses of  a  cruise ;  articles  regarded  as  small  change,  and 
making  one  look  like  a  pedlar,  you  are  supposed  to  have 
always  about  you.  In  one  pocket  you  carry  pipes  and  to- 
bacco— in  great  demand,  but  held  rather  cheap ;  in  an- 
other, fish-hooks,  jews'-harps,  and  beads,  the  spare  room 
to  be  filled  with  scissors  and  knives  of  various  descrip- 
tions. On  board  are  kept  your  gold  and  bank-notes,  re- 
presented by  bales  of  Manchester  print,  especially  navy 
blue  ;  flannel  jackets  and  woollen  blankets, — killing  the 
natives  faster  than  brandy  and  the  so-called  vices  of 
civilization, — and  American  hatchets,  price  five  dollars 
apiece.  The  inconvenience  and  expense  of  paying  for 
everything  by  articles  of  barter  is  increased  by  some  of 
the  goods  not  proving  acceptable  in  all  towns,  and  the 
natives  refusing  certain  things  because  they  happen  to 
differ  in  some  unimportant  trifle  from  those  generally 
in  use.  Fashion  here,  as  elsewhere,  rules  supreme : 
knives  with  white  handles  instead  of  black  would  be 
objected  to,  though  their  blades  might  be  first-rate;  and 
I  learned  to  my  cost  that  it  is  absolutely  useless  to 
lay  in  stock  at  Sydney  or  Melbourne  unless  one  obtains 
exact  information  regarding  the  articles  in  demand. 

On  leaving  Taulalia,  September  the  7th,  we  steered 
eastward,  passing  Yawe,  the  famous  pottery  manufac- 
tory, in  order  to  bid  farewell  to  Mr.  Royce,  the  prin- 
cipal missionary  at  Tavuki,  under  whose  hospitable  roof 


218  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

we  had  previously  stayed.  Wishing  to  economize  time, 
we  left  Tavuki  at  sunset  for  Ovalau ;  we  had  put  to 
sea  scarcely  an  hour  when  the  weather  became  squally 
and  very  thick,  compelling  us  to  take  in  all  canvas  ex- 
cept the  foresail.  We  should  have  fared  ill  if  it  had 
not  been  for  the  presence  of  the  consular  interpreter, 
Mr.  Charles  Wise,  who  combines  with  a  perfect  know- 
ledge of  the  Fijian  language,  customs,  and  manners,  the 
advantage  of  being  one  of  the  best  pilots  in  the  group, 
the  more  appreciated  amongst  the  maze  of  more  than 
two  hundred  islands,  of  which  as  yet  no  reliable  chart 
has  been  prepared,  though  the  labours  of  Wilkes,  Bel- 
cher, Kellett,  and  Denham,  have  already  done  a  great 
deal  towards  that  desirable  end.  After  an  anxious  night 
amongst  reefs  and  shoals,  we  found  ourselves  off  Rewra, 
and,  as  the  wind  had  now  become  a  gale,  the  rain  was 
coming  down  in  torrents,  and  the  sea  was  very  high,  we 
took  shelter  inLaucala(=Lauthala)  Bay,  anchoring  op- 
posite the  premises  of  Mr.  Pickering,  an  old  settler  in 
Fiji.  The  occupier  was  absent,  but  his  people  made  us 
comfortable. 

A  small  schooner  had  just  arrived  from  New  Zealand 
with  sixteen  immigrants  on  board.  The  captain  called 
on  the  Consul,  and  brought  a  file  of  colonial  newspapers 
containing  the  latest  European  news.  Vessels  often 
making  Fiji  a  week  after  leaving  Auckland,  we  gene- 
rally had  our  latest  intelligence  via  New  Zealand.  The 
captain  was  going  to  return  immediately,  taking  oranges, 
pine-apples,  and  yams  with  him,  and  intending  to  come 
back  with  a  fresh  number  of  immigrants.  Those  that 
he  had  brought  this  time  had  found  shelter  at  the 


MR.  MOORE'S  SERMON.  219 

houses  of  the  various  white  settlers  about  here.  Mr. 
Pritchard  and  I  called  on  several,  to  see  what  we  could 
do  for  them.  In  comparison  to  New  Zealand  they  found 
it  rather  warm  in  the  group,  while  we,  on  the  contrary, 
were  quite  chilly,  and  glad  to  have  thick  clothes  on. 
They  had  not  brought  any  mosquito  curtains,  and,  like 
all  new-comers,  had  suffered  dreadfully  during  the  first 
night  from  irritating  bites,  to  guard  against  which  in 
future  the  ladies  were  busy  converting  their  light  muslin 
dresses  into  defences  against  them. 

In  the  evening  a  boat  took  us  over  to  the  mission- 
station  of  Mataisuva,  where  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Moore  gave 
us,  as  usual,  a  hearty  welcome.  The  weather  still  conti- 
nuing boisterous,  we  were  easily  persuaded  to  remain,  es- 
pecially as  the  next  day  was  a  Sunday,  and  Mr.  Moore, 
for  the  benefit  of  the  new  arrivals,  was  to  have  service 
in  English.  Sunday  morning  proved  very  fine,  and 
when  drums  were  beaten — why  does  not  some  kind- 
hearted  person  present  this  fine  church  with  a  good 
tolling-bell  1 — boats  and  canoes  poured  in  from  all  direc- 
tions, and  there  was  a  large  congregation,  a  gratifying 
sight  after  looking  so  long  upon  dark  faces.  Mr.  Moore, 
a  powerful  and  eloquent  speaker,  preached  an  extem- 
porary sermon,  admirably  adapted  to  those  he  was  ad- 
dressing. Its  tenor  was  that  every  man  ought  to  do 
his  duty  in  the  position  it  had  pleased  Providence  to 
place  him  in.  Amongst  his  hearers  there  were  probably 
very  few  who  belonged  to  the  denomination  of  which 
he  is  so  bright  an  ornament,  but  in  these  out-of-the- 
way  places  all  sensible  people  refrain  from  troubling 
their  heads  about  the  nice  distinctions  into  which  our 


220  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Protestant  Church  has  unhappily  been  split,  and  all 
Christians  who  are  not  Catholics  never  raise  much  ob- 
jection to  forming  part  of  a  congregation,  the  members 
of  which  may  more  or  less  diifer  from  them  in  minor 
points  of  discipline  or  doctrine. 

Leaving  Eewa  roads  on  the  morning  of  the  10th  of 
September,  we  reached  Port  Kinnaird,  Ovalau,  on  the 
following  day,  where  our  little  schooner  was  refitted, 
and  we  made  every  preparation  for  another,  my  last, 
cruise  in  the  group.  Mr.  Pritchard's  work,  which  even 
in  ordinary  times  was  more  than  he  could  get  through 
without  the  greatest  efforts,  and  sitting  up  late  or  even 
whole  nights,  had  accumulated  to  an  alarming  extent. 
The  clerks  he  engaged  proved  worse  than  useless,  though 
the  pay  which  he  could  offer  was  three  times  what 
they  would  have  got  in  England.  After  my  departure 
he  fortunately  obtained  the  co-operation  of  Mr.  Swan- 
ston  as  vice-consul,  who,  shortly  after  his  installation  in 
office,  wrote  me  a  letter,  dated  Levuka,  July  9,  1861,  a 
passage  of  which  I  shall  take  the  liberty  to  quote,  as  it 
gives  some  insight  into  consular  duties  in  this  group : — 

"  There  were  urgent  entreaties  from  missionaries  and  white 
residents  at  Rewa,  and  all  along  the  coast  of  Viti  Levu,  to  Mr. 
Pritchard,  to  visit  them.  Complaints  from  whites  to  windward 
against  Tonga  movements  generally ;  and  Mr.  Henry  complains 
in  particular  against  Maafu,  and  seeks  consular  intervention. 
All  this,  etc.,  keeps  Mr.  Pritchard  cruising  about,  and  the  office 
drudgery  falls  on  me,  and  I  have  more  than  I  can  attend  to ; 
to  wit : — 

"  Naval  court  yesterday. — Seamen  complain  against  '  Caro- 
line's '  going  to  sea  unseaworthy.  Merchants  and  others  put 
in  claims  against  the  master ;  he  drunk  and  disorderly  on  the 


OFFICE   DRUDGERY.  221 

beach ;  have  to  put  him  under  arrest.  My  constable  gets 
intoxicated.  Consular  officer  has  to  attend  to  it.  Harvie,  a  Brit. 
subject,  dead.  Mr.  Pritchard  hands  me  in  papers  connected 
with  the  affairs,  which  he  brought  from  Gau  and  Koro,  whither 
he  had  to  go  last  week  on  official  business.  Claims  against  this 
estate ;  counter-claims,  disputes,  and  trouble  to  me.  Old 
T lodges  a  complaint  against  S ;  accuses  him  of  vio- 
lating the  person  of  his  daughter ;  Levuka  in  a  state  of  excite- 
ment about  it.  Binner  in  great  distress  about  disputed  land 
title  of  his.  Wilson' s  agent  here,  with  chiefs  from  Na  Lavu 
Lavu,  to  complete  land  titles.  Clarke  and  Hazelman,  ditto, 
ditto,  from  Na  Viti  Levu.  Order  from  Hort,  Bros.,  to  seize 
schooner  '  Kate/  unlawfully  kept  out  of  their  possession.  Com- 
plaints from  Bob  Somebody  that  Davies  has  kicked  him  oub 
without  paying  him  his  wages.  Claims  against  Maafu  for  debts 
due  four  years  ago  ;  American  citizen  connected  with  the  affair ; 
have  to  refer  to  the  U.  S.  Consul;  go  into  the  affair  to-morrow 
if  business  permits.  Maafu  here  to  ascertain  why  a  certain 
Fijirnan,  sentenced  some  time  since  to  three  years'  hard  labour, 
is  allowed  to  be  at  large  ;  crime,  killing  a  Tongaman.  He  offers, 
and  insists  upon  his  right,  to  enforce  the  punishment  if  the  Fiji 
chiefs  cannot.  Wilson's  agent  lodges  complaint  against  Bothe, 
for  inducing  natives  at  Wai  Levu  to  give  to  him  logs  belonging 
to  the  company  of  which  Wilson  is  the  acting  partner. 

"  And  all  these  in  two  days ;  and  so  the  wheel  goes  :  every 
case  has  to  be  examined  into,  evidence  heard,  judgment  given, 
papers  in  connection  made  out,  often  in  duplicate,  and  so  on, 
and  so  on.  I  am  tired.  I  have  been  at  it  all  day;  it  is  now 

midnight;   so  good-bye. 

' '  Yours  very  truly, 

"ROBEKT    S.  SWANSTON." 


222 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

VOYAGE    AROUND   VANUA   LEVU. DEPARTURE    FROM    LADO. — EAST  COAST   OF 

VITI    LEVU. NANANU    ISLAND. THE    FIJIAN    MOUNT    OLYMPUS. — BUA. 

NAICOBOCOBO. NUKUBATI. — NADURI. INTERVIEW    WITH    THE    CHIEF. 

DISCONTENT  OF    HIS  SUBJECTS. BECHE-DE-MER  TRADE. — MUA  I  UDU  AND 

ITS    SUPERSTITIONS. NA    CEVA    BAY. ARRIVAL    AT    WAIKAVA. VISIT   TO 

MY   COTTON    PLANTATION. MEETING   AT   WAIKAVA. — DEPARTURE. 

OUR  schooner,  which  had  been  so  much  shattered  during 
the  stormy  passage  from  Kadavu  to  Ilewa  as  to  require 
a  thorough  refitting,  again  left  Lado  on  the  10th  of 
October.  Mr.  Pritchard  had  agreed  to  meet  Colonel 
Smythe  on  the  17th  of  that  month  at  Waikava,  a  town 
of  Cakaudrove  in  Vanua  Levu,  and  to  bring  thither  all 
the  most  influential  chiefs  of  that  island.  We  stood 
over  to  the  east  coast  of  Viti  Levu,  and  made  it  near 
Tova  Peak,  the  bold  cone-shaped  outline  of  which  could 
be  seen  from  Lado  in  fine  weather.  The  shores  looked 
charming ;  grassy  slopes  alternating  with  groves  of  trees, 
rivulets,  and  inhabited  valleys.  Towards  4  P.M.  we  an- 
chored off  Nananu  Levu  (erroneously  called  Annan  in 
the  charts),  close  to  the  most  northerly  point  of  Viti 
Levu,  and  near  another  small  island  bearing  the  name 
of  Nananu-gata.  Like  the  adjacent  coast,  it  is  covered 
with  grass,  isolated  screw-pines,  and  ironwood,  and 
would  seem  well  adapted  for  sheep  and  cattle.  Poli- 


NA    VATU. 


223 


tically  it  is  under  Viwa,  which  again  is  tributary  to  Ban. 
There  may  be  about  one  hundred  inhabitants,  who  lived 
in  a  town  defended  by  a  deep  ditch  and  high  earthen 
mounds.  On  the  top  of  the  island  were  extensive  plan- 
tations of  Kawai  (Dioscorea  aculeata,  Linn.),  and  in  the 
valleys  thousands  of  bread-fruit  trees.  The  people  did 
not  seem  to  take  much  notice  of  us,  and  altogether  be- 
haved colder  than  any  we  had  yet  come  in  contact  with. 
Remaining  at  anchor  all  night,  our  voyage  was  con- 
tinued early  next  morning  to  Bua,  Sandalwood  Bay. 
The  north-eastern  portion  of  Viti  Levu,  now  fast  fading 
away,  is  called  Rakiraki,  and  famous  in  mythology  as 
the  site  of  Na  Vatu,  the  Fijian  Mount  Olympus,  and 
the  abode  of  the  supreme  god  Degei  (  =  Ndengei).  It 
has  been  supposed  that  this  portion  of  Viti  was  the  first 


NA  VATU,  FKOM  THE  NOETH. 


224  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

to  be  inhabited,  because  all  the  tribes  of  the  islands 
acknowledge  Degei  as  their  chief  god,  and  own  their 
knowledge  of  him  to  be  derived  from  Rakiraki.  There 
is  nothing  very  remarkable  either  in  the  shape  or  cha- 
racter of  the  mountain,  and,  as  far  as  our  present  in- 
formation goes,  we  are  unable  to  account  for  the  dis- 
tinction it  enjoys.  The  accompanying  sketch,  obligingly 
furnished  by  Mrs.  Smythe,  will  help  to  bear  me  out. 

About  noon  on  the  llth  of  October  we  were  off  Bua, 
no  longer  teeming  with  sandalwood  as  in  days  of  yore. 
Our  object  was  to  invite  Tui  Bua,  or  King  of  Bua,  to 
attend  the  meeting  at  Waikava.  Our  schooner  not  going 
close  in,  we  went  on  shore  in  the  dingy.  The  town  of 
Bua  is  built  on  the  banks  of  a  river,  the  mouth  of 
which  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half  is  densely  covered 
with  mangroves:^  The  district  is  low,  the  soil  a  rich 
alluvial  clay.  Bua  has  proved  so  unhealthy  to  Europeans 
that  the  white  missionaries,  after  several  deaths  had 
thinned  their  ranks,  were  compelled  to  relinquish  it,  and 
fill  their  places  with  Tonguese  teachers.  This  circum- 
stance is  the  more  to  be  regretted  as  Bua  was  a  most 
complete  station.  The  church  is  a  very  neat  building, 
and  has  a  good  tolling-bell,  instead  of  those  hideous 
wooden  drums  used  in  other  parts  for  calling  the  con- 
gregation together ;  the  dwelling-houses  are  also  highly 
finished.  We  found  the  principal  one  inhabited  by  the 
Tonguese  teacher,  who,  together  with  his  wife,  was 
scenting  cocoa-nut  oil  by  adding  rasped  sandalwood  and 
the  white  odoriferous  flowers  of  the  Bua  (Fagrcea  Ber- 
teriana,  A.  Gray),  a  tree  from  which  the  place  probably 
derives  its  name.  They  were  very  attentive  to  us,  and 


NAICOBOCOBO.  225 

loaded  us  with  baskets  full  of  kavikas,  or  Malay-apples, 
and  cocoa-nuts,  several  bottles  of  goat's  milk,  and  a  fine 
log  of  sandalwood,  now  in  the  Kew  Museum. 

The  houses  had  been  stripped  of  most  of  their  Eu- 
ropean furniture,  the  church  was  rather  in  want  of  re- 
pair, and  the  whole  had  that  desolate  appearance  which 
all  places  built  by  Europeans,  but  abandoned  by  them 
to  natives,  invariably  possess.  After  visiting  the  graves 
of  those  Christian  pioneers  who  had  here  laid  down  their 
lives  in  a  noble  cause,  I  felt  quite  melancholy,  and  was 
glad  to  return  on  board. 

Tui  Bua,  the  chief,  being  absent,  and  not  expected 
back  for  some  days,  we  made  sail  without  delay.  When 
evening  came  on  we  anchored  off  Bau  lailai,  and  next 
morning  rounded  Naicobocobo  (  =  Naithombothombo), 
the  west  point  of  Vanua  Levu,  which  is  rocky  and  thickly- 
wooded,  and  supposed  to  be  a  general  starting-point 
(Cibicibi)  for  Bulu,  the  future  abode  of  departed  spirits. 
It  is  erroneously  called  Dimba  Dimba  by  Wilkes  and 
all  those  who  copied  him.  On  the  12th  of  October  we 
anchored  off  Nukubati,  a  sandy  little  island,  full  of 
cocoa-nut  trees  and  breadfruit,  a  great  many  of  which 
had  been  cut  down  or  otherwise  injured  by  the  Ton- 
guese  to  revenge  themselves  on  the  Chief  Eitova,  whose 
private  property  the  island  is,  and  who  had  been  driven 
from  power  by  them  to  make  room  for  a  chief  more 
willing  to  comply  with  their  extortions  than  Eitova  had 
shown  himself  to  be.  I  went  on  shore  and  saw  a  party 
of  women  making  pottery,  which  they  did  without  a 
wheel,  and  extremely  well. 

On  the  14th  we  ran  down  to  Macuata  (=Mathuata), 

Q 


226  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

— not  Mocuata  or  Mudwater,  as  sometimes  written, — a 
small,  stony  isle,  densely  covered  with  ironwood,  and  at 
present  uninhabited.  This  isle  has  conferred  its  name 
on  the  whole  northern  coast  of  Vanua  Levu,  and  was 
the  head-quarters  of  three  branches  of  the  ruling  Macu- 
ata  family,  until  about  twenty-five  years  ago  dissensions 
amongst  its  members  broke  out,  which  led  to  the  total 
extinction  of  one  of  the  branches,  and  proved  to  the 
others  that  a  house  divided  against  itself  cannot  stand. 
The  whole  coast  had  been  subjugated  by  Tongamen; 
Ritova,  the  head  of  the  most  powerful  branch,  and  the 
legitimate  king  of  the  district,  was  in  exile ;  whilst  Bete, 
who  represented  the  weaker  and  subordinate  portion  of 
the  family,  resided  at  Naduri,  and  was  a  mere  puppet  in 
the  hands  of  the  artful  Tongamen. 

When  making  Nukubati  we  met  a  canoe  going  to 
Naduri,  and  sent  a  message  by  it  to  Bete,  said  to  be 
attending  some  festival  inland,  that  we  were  going  to 
call  at  his  town  on  the  following  day  in  order  to  make 
a  communication  to  him.  We  had  scarcely  dropped 
anchor  off  Naduri  when  Bete's  spokesman  arrived  in  a 
large  canoe.  The  first  thing  he  delivered  was  a  whale's 
tooth,  dark  as  mahogany  from  age  and  repeated  greas- 
ing, such  as  Fijians  hold  to  be  of  the  highest  value. 
It  was  offered  to  the  consul  as  a  sow,  or  acknowledg- 
ment of  submission  and  atonement  from  the  chief.  Mr. 
Pritchard  hesitated  about  accepting  it;  but  as  its  re- 
jection would  have  been  a  direct  insult,  he  thought  it 
better  to  take  the  tooth,  and  thus  prevent  any  misun- 
derstanding and  long  explanations,  both  parties  being 
fully  aware  of  the  real  meaning  of  the  token. 


BECHE-DE-MER   TRADE.  227 

We  found  Bete  sitting  in  his  house  surrounded  by 
councillors.  Mr.  Pritchard  informed  him  that  his  pre- 
sence was  required  at  Waikava  at  the  meeting  of  chiefs, 
and  his  absence  might  prove  disadvantageous  to  him- 
self; but  his  mind  seemed  to  be  made  up,  and  he  gave 
us  to  understand  that  he  did  not  mean  to  go,  as  the  time 
was  too  short.  His  Tonguese  advisers  had  probably  in- 
duced him  to  act  in  this  way. 

I  went  some  distance  up  a  rivulet  to  bathe,  and  on  my 
return  met  a  number  of  Naduri  people,  who  complained 
bitterly  of  the  way  in  which  they  were  ground  down  by 
the  Tonguese,  and  how  wretchedly  poor  they  were  in 
in  comparison  with  formerly,  when  Mche-de-mer  traders 
visited  the. coast,  and  they  were  kept  well  supplied  with 
foreign  articles  of  barter  in  exchange  for  the  sea-slugs  they 
collected.  They  said  there  could  be  no  revival  of  this 
lucrative  trade  until  their  old  chief  Eitova  was  restored 
to  power,  as  Bete  was  so  weak,  and  so  little  respected, 
that  he  could  not  get  the  requisite  number  of  hands  to- 
gether to  make  up  a  cargo.  They  were  most  anxious  to 
know  when  Bitova  was  likely  to  come  back,  and  asked 
repeatedly,  but  I  turned  off  the  conversation.  There 
were  a  great  number  of  sail-mats  in  Bete's  house,  and 
the  people  assured  me  that  they  were  some  of  the  tri- 
bute which  the  Tonguese  extorted  from  them. 

The  sea-slugs,  or  beche-de-mer  (several  species  of  the 
genus  Holothuria),  collectively  termed  "  Dri "  by  the  na- 
tives,* are  found  in  great  abundance  on  the  reefs,  espe- 

*  The  different  species  bear  the  following  native  names  : — 1.  Dri  voto- 
voto  ;  2.  Dri  alewa ;  3.  Dri  batibuli ;  4.  Dri  tarasea ;  5.  Dri  damu ; 
6.  Dri  valadakawa ;  7.  Dri  daidairo ;  8.  Dri  lokoloko  ni  qio,  etc. 

To  show  the  profits  of  the  beche-de-mer  trade,  I  extract  from  Wilkes,  of 

Q  2 


228  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

cially  on  the  northern  shores  of  Viti  Levu  and  Vanua 
Levu.  In  July,  1862,  they  figured,  perhaps  for  the  first 
time  in  Europe,  in  the  bill  of  fare  at  a  grand  dinner  given 
in  London  at  Freemasons'  Tavern  by  the  Acclimatiza- 
tion Society.  A  highly  profitable  trade  in  them  was  car- 
ried on,  principally  by  the  Americans,  until  a  few  years 
ago,  through  the  political  troubles  caused  by  the  inva- 
sion of  the  Tonga  islanders,  it  became  impossible  to 
collect  sufficient  for  filling  a  vessel  fitted  out  on  purpose. 
As  peace  has  now  been  re-established,  this  trade  will 
probably  revive.  As  soon  as  a  ship  was  full  it  sailed 
direct  to  Manila,  where  merchants  were  eager  to  pur- 
chase its  cargo  for  the  Chinese  markets :  a  cargo  of  tea, 
sugar,  and  silks,  was  then  taken  in  for  the  homeward 
voyage.  Notwithstanding  that  no  insurance  of  the  ves- 
sels engaged  could  be  effected,  on  account  of  the  bad 
charts  of  Fiji,  the  profits  realized  were  very  great.  A 
whole  cargo,  which  cost  $1200,  brought  $12,000 ;  and 
another,  which  cost  $3500,  brought  $27,000.  As  for 
nearly  ten  years  no  sea-slugs  have  been  collected,  any 
enterprising  shipowner  dispatching  vessels  there  would 
be  able  to  collect  a  rich  cargo  in  a  very  short  space  of 
time. 

the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  the  following  costs  and  returns 
of  five  cargoes  obtained  by  an  American,  Captain  Eagleston  : — 

1st  voyage,    617  piculs,  cost  $1,100,  sales  $  8,021 
2nd       „  700      „         „     $1,200,     „     $17,500 

3rd       „        1,080      „         „     $3,396,     „     $15,120 
4th       „  840      „         „     $1,200,     „     $12,600 

5th       „       1,200      „        „     $3,500,     „     $27,000 

A  further  profit  also  arises  from  the  investment  of  the  proceeds  in  Can- 
ton or  Manila.  This  same  trader  obtained  also  4488  pounds  of  tortoise- 
shell  at  a  cost  of  $5700,  which  sold  in  the  United  States  for  $29,050  net. 


MUA   I    UDU.  229 

Eesuming  our  voyage,  we  found  ourselves,  October 
15th,  off  Namuka,  where  we  sent  on  shore  for  water. 
The  crew,  on  returning,  brought  an  armful  of  gardenias, 
a  species  quite  new  to  science  (Gardenia  Vitiensis,  Seem.), 
with  beautiful  white  flowers,  emitting  a  delicious  scent ; 
and  the  young  leaves  of  the  shrub  being  enveloped  in  a 
thick  coating  of  greenish  gum,  which,  as  they  expand, 
gradually  dissolves.  There  is  a  strange  connection  be- 
tween Namuka  and  Bau :  both  having,  or  rather  having 
had,  the  same  local  gods,  the  people  possess  mutual  rights 
similar  to  those  of  the  Vasus,  visitors  being  allowed  to 
take  whatever  articles  they  choose.  The  advocates  of 
the  rights  of  women  will  also  be  glad  to  learn  that  the 
softer  sex  of  Namuka  can  take  their  seats  among  the 
men ! 

On  the  16th  we  rounded  Mua  i  Udu,  as  the  eastern 
extremity  of  Vanua  Levu  is  termed,  where,  until  lately, 
an  old  screw-pine  stood,  to  which  a  strange  supersti- 
tion attached:  a  man  who  could  hit  any  part  of  this 
tree  between  the  root  and  the  crown  with  a  whale's 
tooth,  made  sure  that  at  his  death  all  his  wives  would 
be  strangled.  On  their  way  to  Naicobocobo  the  spirits 
of  the  dead  are  supposed  to  do  the  same  thing  for  the 
same  purpose,  there  being  a  screw-pine  at  Takiveleyava. 
Eatu  Mara,  a  chief  well  known  in  the  annals  of  Fiji  as 
a  frequent  disturber  of  the  public  peace,  vainly  tried  to 
hit  the  tree  at  Udu ;  enraged  at  his  continued  failures, 
he  cut  it  down.  But  what  use  is  it  to  wrangle  at  fate  ] 
Eatu  Mara  ended  his  restless  career  at  Bau.  where,  for 
repeated  treacheries,  the  king  thought  fit  to  hang  him, 
and  all  his  wives  escaped  the  fearful  doom  of  strangu- 
lation. 


230  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Having  rounded  Mua  i  Udu,  we  came  in  sight  of 
Eabe  and  Taviuni,  the  wind  being  favourable  all  the 
while.  At  night  we  anchored  in  Na  Ceva  (=Natheva) 
Bay,  partly  to  avoid  rocks  and  reefs,  partly  because  we 
could  not  keep  our  crew  awake.  The  bay  derives  its 
name  from  Na  Ceva  (i.e.  the  south-east  wind,  to  which  it 
is  open) ;  Natava  is  therefore  an  erroneous  spelling.  In 
Wilkes's,  and  other  charts  founded  upon  his  survey,  it  is 
not  made  deep  enough,  and  the  isthmus  separating  it 
from  the  southern  shores  of  Vanua  Levu,  about  ten 
miles  too  wide.  The  isthmus  is  scarcely  more  than  a 
mile  and  a  half  across,  and  canoes  are  dragged  from  one 
side  to  the  other,  as  is  the  case  in  Kadavu,  though  its 
surface  is  hilly.  Colonel  Smythe  made  an  excursion  to 
it  from  Waikava ;  and  in  the  chart  Mr.  Arrowsmith  has 
constructed  for  him,  this  error  of  long  standing  has  been 
corrected,  as  it  is  in  the  map  accompanying  this  work. 

On  the  following  morning  we  called  at  Rabe,  a  fine 
island,  of  which  the  Tonguese  have  made  desperate 
attempts  to  obtain  permanent  possession,  and  towards 
the  afternoon  we  reached  Waikava,  where  the  mission- 
aries from  Taviuni  had  now  established  themselves, 
and  where  the  official  meeting  with  the  principal  chiefs 
of  Vanua  Levu  was  to  be  held.  We  found  Colonel 
Smythe's  vessel,  the  '  Pegasus,'  at  anchor,  just  returned 
from  Lakeba,  where,  under  pressure  from  the  Tonguese, 
the  chiefs  had  behaved  rather  rudely. 

On  the  following  day  I  ran  over  to  Somosomo,  where, 
in  the  beginning  of  June,  I  had  established  an  experi- 
mental cotton  plantation.  It  took  me  nearly  a  whole 
day  to  cross  the  strait  of  Somosomo,  there  being  almost 
a  perfect  calm.  I  found  the  plantation  in  the  best 


FIJIAN   POLITY.  231 

order.  To  my  great  joy,  there  were  ripe  pods,  and  I 
could  gather  the  produce  of  the  very  seeds  only  set 
three  months  ago.  Mr.  Coxon  was  glad  to  see  me  again, 
and  availed  himself  of  my  invitation  to  go  for  a  few  days 
to  Cakaudrove,  as  the  eastern  extremity  of  Vanua  Levn 
is  more  particularly  called. 

Shortly  after  my  arrival,  Eitova,  the  deposed  chief  of 
Macuata,  called  on  me.  I  told  him  to  leave  oif  black- 
ing his  face,  as  it  set  foreigners  against  him,  and  was 
regarded  as  a  demonstration  of  heathenism,  though  it 
might  not  be  intended  as  such.  Golea,  or  rather  Ratu 
Golea,  the  chief  of  Somosomo,  also  dropped  in.  He  had 
cut  his  hair  short,  and  was  so  much  altered  for  the 
worse,  that  I  did  not  know  him  until  recognizing  him 
by  his  melodious  voice.  He  had  now  about  thirty 
wives ;  and  Eleanor,  the  Queen,  had  quite  recently  given 
birth  to  a  fine  boy,  who  would  be  "  Vasu  "  to  Bau,  and 
about  whom  the  natives  were  in  ecstasy. 

The  Fijians  are  not  so  prepossessing  in  appearance 
as  those  lazy  and  handsome  fellows  the  Tonga  men,  who 
flock  over  here  in  great  shoals ;  but  whilst  the  Ton- 
guese  lose,  the  Fijians  gain  by  a  closer  acquaintance. 
There  is  a  manliness  about  them  that  is  extremely  win- 
ning ;  and  I  quite  agree  with  Macdonald,  that  if  their 
likenesses  could  be  accurately  taken,  they  would  form 
quite  a  contrast  to  the  ill  representations  of  these  islan- 
ders extant.  Ratu  Vakaruru,  whose  portrait  is  given 
in  the  frontispiece,  is  one  of  the  finest  Fijians  living  ; 
but  I  cannot  say  that  the  copy  I  had  made  of  Mac- 
donald's  unpublished  drawing  does  justice  to  him. 
Their  language,  so  far  as  euphony  goes,  yields  to  none 
1  have-  heard  in  any  quarter  of  the  globe,  and  to  my  ear 


232  A    MISSION    TO    V1TI. 

it  sounds  as  pleasing  as  Spanish  or  Italian.  They  are 
certainly  not  an  idle  people,  and  though  not  working 
like  our  own  labourers,  from  six  to  six,  they  are  great 
cultivators  of  the  soil,  skilful  fishermen,  and  able  builders 
and  managers  of  canoes.  Far  from  living  under  an  ab- 
solute despotism,  as  is  erroneously  supposed,  all  the  dif- 
ferent States  of  which  Fiji  is  composed  have  institutions 
hallowed  by  age  and  tradition,  fundamentally  almost 
identical  with  those  cherished  by  the  most  advanced 
nations.  The  real  power  of  the  State  resides  in  the 
landholders  or  gentry,  who,  at  the  death  of  a  ruler,  pro- 
ceed to  elect  a  new  one  in  his  stead  from  amongst  the 
members  of  the  royal  family.  Generally  the  son,  but 
not  unfrequently  the  brother,  or  even  a  more  distant  re- 
lation of  the  deceased,  is  elevated  to  the  chieftainship, 
and  loyally  supported  in  his  dignity  as  long  as  he  car- 
ries out  the  policy  of  those  who  have  set  him  up.  If 
this  "  House  of  Commons,"  as  by  a  stretch  of  language 
it  may  be  called,  finds  its  wishes  and  aims  disregarded, 
the  members  avail  themselves  of  the  privilege  of  re- 
fusing supplies,  which,  in  the  total  absence  of  money, 
consist  in  yams,  taro,  pigs,  fowls,  native  cloth,  canoes 
(the  naval  estimates !),  and  all  the  other  requirements 
of  a  great  Fijian  establishment.  The  intractable  chief 
who  has  attempted  to  play  the  despot  is  thus  generally 
brought  to  a  proper  sense  of  his  condition.  Of  course, 
chiefs  who,  by  strong  family  connections,  can  afford  to 
set  the  "  Commons  "  at  defiance,  will  occasionally  do  so  ; 
then  new  expedients  have  to  be  resorted  to,  and  the 
trial  of  strength  which  follows  provides  one  of  the  ele- 
ments of  political  activity.  Europeans  might  fancy  that 
a  barbarous  people  would  readily  adopt  the  more  simple 


NARROW    ESCAPE   FROM    CANNIBALS.  233 

process  of  getting  rid  of  an  intractable  chief  by  knock- 
ing him  on  the  head ;  and  certainly  that  would  be  the 
solution  adopted  if  usage  had  not  provided  a  law  for  his 
protection,  according  to  which  he  cannot  be  killed  by 
any  one  inferior  to  him  in  birth.  We  have  here  the 
English  law,  that  a  peer  cannot  be  tried  except  by  his 
own  peers,  in  its  rudest  embryonic  form.  It  would  be 
"  taboo  "  for  any  commoner  or  serf  to  lay  violent  hands 
on  a  chief ;  and,  however  obnoxious  he  might  have  been 
to  the  community,  the  taboo-breaker  would  not  go  un- 
punished. Outsiders  might  suppose  that  amongst  a  peo- 
ple destitute  of  all  written  law  much  confusion  existed 
in  regard  to  the  application  of  this  peculiar  code  of  po- 
lity and  customs.  Never  would  a  greater  mistake  be 
committed.  All  their  usages  are  as  firmly  established, 
and  as  strictly  adhered  to,  both  in  letter  and  spirit,  as 
if  they  had  been  engraven  on  tablets  of  stone.  The 
early  white  settlers  soon  found  this  out,  and  often  owed 
the  preservation  of  their  lives  to  a  thorough  knowledge 
of  this  system.  Thus,  an  Englishman,  of  the  name  of 
Pickering,  once  fell  into  the  hands  of  a  hostile  tribe 
long  on  the  look-out  for  his  body.  He  soon  became 
aware  that  they  were  making  preparations  for  a  canni- 
bal feast,  of  which  he  was  to  be  the  principal  dish, 
though  these  preparations  would  not  have  been  noticed 
by  any  one  less  versed  in  their  peculiar  customs.  He 
knew  that  before  they  proceeded  to  kill  him  a  bowl  of 
kava  would  have  to  be  made,  that  a  prayer  would  have 
to  be  said  over  the  beverage  when  ready,  and  that  the 
person  saying  the  prayer  could  not  be  the  one  eaten. 
Pretending  utter  unconsciousness  of  what  was  going  on 


234  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

around  him,  he  eagerly  watched  the  moment  when  the 
preparation  of  the  kava  was  advanced  to  the  stage  at 
which  the  prayer  had  to  be  said,  and  suddenly,  to  the 
utter  dismay  of  his  enemies,  he  pronounced  the  well- 
known  formula.  No  one  would  now  have  dared  to  take 
his  life,  and  he  had  the  keen  satisfaction  of  partaking 
of  the  refreshments  provided  for  his  own  funeral.  Ano- 
ther old  settler,  American  by  birth,  had  also  the  misfor- 
tune of  being  an  object  of  hatred  to  a  tribe  opposed  to, 
and  at  war  with,  the  chief  under  whom  he  lived ;  and, 
as  ill-luck  would  have  it,  he  met  a  strong  party  of  his 
enemies  making  straightway  for  his  boat.  They  were 
about  to  open  fire  upon  him,  when,  with  a  coolness  de- 
serving all  praise,  he  exclaimed  : — "  Don't  shoot !  I  am 
a  herald  of  peace,  charged  with  carrying  the  token  of 
surrender  to  your  chief,  and  put  a  stop  to  further  hos- 
tilities." The  stratagem  succeeded,  and  the  self-styled 
herald  effected  his  escape. 

I  returned  to  Waikava  on  Saturday,  October  20th, 
and  on  Monday  following  the  official  meeting  was  held. 
The  chapel  had  been  granted  for  that  purpose.  Mr. 
Carey,  the  resident  missionary,  interpreted  the  official 
business.  Neither  Bete  nor  Tui  Bua  had  made  their 
appearance  ;  Eatu  Golea  dropped  in  when  all  was  over  ; 
the  only  three  chiefs  therefore  present  were,  Bitova, 
Bonaveidogo,  and  Tui  Cakau,  the  king  of  Cakaudrove. 
After  all  business  relating  to  the  cession  had  been  dis- 
posed of,  Mr.  Pritchard  was  occupied  several  hours  in 
settling  disputes  between  native  and  British  subjects. 

Waikava,  sometimes  called  Fawn  Harbour,  derives  its 
name  from  a  little  fish  (Kava),  which  at  a  certain  sea- 


DEPARTURE  OF  THE  'PEGASUS*  FOR  NEW  ZEALAND.  235 

son  of  the  year,  enters  the  river  (Wai),  on  which,  the 
native  town  is  situated.  Tui  Cakau,  the  King,  had 
almost  promised  the  missionaries  that  on  their  removal 
from  Wairiki  he  would  follow  them  with  his  whole 
court  to  Waikava ;  but  he  had  not  done  so  as  yet,  and 
fears  were  entertained  that  he  would  not  consider  the 
promise  binding.  Jetro,  the  old  Manila  man,  whom 
I  met  at  Korovono,  was  now  here,  employed  as  a 
Scripture-reader.  Only  one  of  the  missionary  houses 
being  finished,  we  had  to  sleep  in  the  chapel,  where 
large  screens  of  bark-cloth  ensured  the  necessary  pri- 
vacy. Several  heathen  priests,  on  becoming  Christian, 
have  proved  highly  useful  to  the  mission,  and  at  this 
place  there  was  one  who  occasionally,  when  praying 
rather  more  fervently  than  most  people  are  wont  to  do, 
would  suddenly  begin  to  tremble  and  shake,  as  he  used 
to  do  in  his  heathen  state,  and  had  no  slight  difficulty  in 
checking  himself  in  his  old  propensity. 

After  the  meeting  the  '  Pegasus '  returned  to  Levuka, 
where  she  arrived  on  the  26th  of  October,  and  as  there 
was  no  further  occasion  for  her,  she  returned  to  New 
Zealand,  Colonel  Smythe  remaining  behind.  The  '  Paul 
Jones'  left  a  few  hours  after  her  the  anchorage  of 
Waikava,  steering  for  Matei  in  Taviuni ;  the  Consul 
having  determined  to  arrange,  if  possible,  some  terms 
between  Eitova  and  those  who  had  driven  him  from  his 
land  and  estates,  and  thus  try  to  heal  a  sore  of  old 
standing.  But  in  order  to  understand  the  real  diffi- 
culties of  this  case,  it  will  be  necessary  to  sketch  the 
history  of  the  Tonguese  in  Fiji,  so  far  as  I  have  been 
able  to  trace  it  from  all  the  sources  accessible. 


236 


CHAPTER  XV. 

HISTORY    OF     THE     TONGAMEN     IN     FIJI. — THEIR    PHYSICAL     SUPERIORITY 
OVER    THE    FIJIANS. — THEIR    ARROGANCE. — CAPTAIN    CROKER's    DEFEAT. 

EARLY   INTERCOURSE    BETWEEN    TONGA  AND    FIJI. — INCREASE  OF    TON- 

GUESE  IMMIGRATION. — CHIEF  MAAFU. — KING  GEORGE  OF  TONGA  VISITS 
FIJI. — CONQUEST  OF  KABA  AND  BABE. — ARRIVAL  OF  BRITISH  CONSUL. 
— CESSION  OF  FIJI.  —  MAAFU'8  ATTEMPTED  CONQUEST.  —  RITOVA  AND 
BETE.  —  MAAFU'S  AMBITION  CURBED.  —  PEACE  RESTORED. — RITOVA  IN- 
STALLED IN  HIS  ESTATES. — TONGUESE  INTRIGUES  RENEWED. — BETE's 

DEATH. — COMMODORE     SEYMOUR'S     VISIT. TERMINATION    OF    THE    WARS 

BETWEEN    FIJIANS    AND    TONGANS. 

ONE  of  the  many  reasons  which  induced  the  King  and 
Chiefs  of  Fiji  to  tender  a  formal  cession  of  their  beau- 
tiful island  to  the  British  Crown,  and  to  ratify  it  with 
alacrity,  was  to  escape  from  the  insupportable  exactions 
and  tyrannies  of  the  Tonguese.  The  Tonguese,  or 
Friendly  Islanders,  may  well  be  called  the  flower  of  the 
Polynesian  race  ;  and  Commander  Wilkes  was  only  sta- 
ting a  truism  when  saying,  that  there  were  few  spots  on 
the  whole  face  of  the  earth  where  one  could  behold  so 
many  handsome  people  together.  They  are  tall  men,  with 
fine  intelligent  features,  dark,  often  curly,  hair,  and  of  a 
light-brown  complexion.  They  are  far  beyond  the  Fi- 
jians  in  good  looks.  This  physical  superiority,  which, 
independent  of  the  difference  of  race,  the  Tonguese  en- 
joy over  the  Fijians,  may  partly  result  from  the  different 
treatment  to  which  the  women  are  subjected  amongst 


THE    TOXGUESE.  237 

these  two  nations.  Whilst  in  Tonga  the  women  have 
been  treated  from  time  immemorial  with  all  the  consi- 
deration demanded  by  their  weaker  and  more  delicate 
constitution,  not  being  allowed  to  perform  any  hard  work, 
the  women  of  Fiji  are  little  better  than  beasts  of  burden, 
having  to  carry  heavy  loads,  do  actual  field-work,  go  out 
fishing,  and  besides,  attend  to  all  the  domestic  arrange- 
ments devolving  upon  their  sex  in  other  countries.  In- 
deed, their  position  is  almost  identical  with  that  enjoyed, 
or  rather  endured,  by  their  poor  Indian  sisters  in  North 
and  South  America.  They  have  to  work  hard,  and  cheer- 
fully go  through  all  the  drudgery  forced  upon  them  by 
the  lords  of  creation.  I  remember  an  eccentric  friend 
of  mine  once  remonstrating  with  a  Fijian  who  allowed 
his  wife  to  carry  a  large  bundle  of  sugar-cane,  whilst  he 
leisurely  walked  by  her  side.  He  thought  the  remon- 
strance simply  a  piece  of  impertinence,  and  did  not  see 
why  an  inferior  being  should  not  be  made  to  contribute 
to  the  comfort  of  a  superior.* 

The  Tonguese  may  also  be  called  the  Anglo-Saxons 
of  the  South  Seas.  Originally  sprung  from  Samoa,  at 
least  their  leading  chiefs  indisputably,  they  have  over- 
run Tonga ;  and  finding  that  group  also  too  small,  they 
established  colonies  in  Fiji,  and  of  late  made  desperate 
attempts  to  conquer  the  whole  group.  The  unqualified 
praise  given  to  their  good  looks  by  all  voyagers  has 
made  them  rather  conceited,  and  their  success  in  war 
haughty  and  arrogant  in  the  extreme.  It  is  intelligible 

*  The  accompanying  plate,  representing  Koro  Basabasaga,  on  the  Wai 
Levu,  or  great  river  of  Viti  Levu,  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  treatment ;  the 
man  walking  leisurely  along,  whilst  the  woman  is  carrying  a  heavy  load  of 
sugar-cane. 


238  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

that  they  should  entertain  a  feeling  of  superiority  over 
the  native  races  whom  they  subdued ;  but  in  conse- 
quence of  an  unlucky  affair,  almost  forgotten  in  Eng- 
land, they  look  down  upon  all  Europeans,  and  boast  of 
having  beaten  a  British  man-of-war.  In  1840,  Captain 
Croker,  of  H.M.S.  Favourite,  visited  the  Tongan  Islands, 
and  was  persuaded  to  take  part  with  a  body  of  native 
Christians  against  the  heathens  that  opposed  them,  then 
shut  up  in  several  native  forts  at  Bea.  Carronades  were 
brought  within  106  yards  of  the  principal  fort,  and  all 
hopes  of  a  peaceable  arrangement  having  vanished,— 

"  The  command  was  given  to  make  the  attack,  the  captain 
leading  the  way.  The  sergeant  of  marines  was  ordered  to  scale 
the  barricade  and  to  fire.  The  attack  was  soon  answered  by 
the  cannon  at  the  entrances  [of  the  fort] ,  and  by  a  volley  of 
musketry ;  and  the  captain  and  several  of  his  men  were 
wounded.  Notwithstanding  his  wound,  Captain  Croker  ex- 
erted himself  to  the  utmost  to  enter  the  stockade  ;  but  failing 
in  the  attempt,  and  becoming  faint  from  the  loss  of  blood,  he  re- 
tired to  a  little  distance,  and  while  leaning  against  a  tree  for 
support,  was  shot  through  the  heart,  and  dropped  lifeless  on 
the  ground.  His  men  continued  the  attack,  but  at  great  disad- 
vantage :  the  enemy  was  screened  by  their  defences ;  while  the 
English,  on  the  open  ground,  were  exposed  to  the  hot  fire  of 
the  enemy.  This  sad  affair  ended  in  the  death  of  two  officers, 
besides  the  captain.  The  first  lieutenant  and  nineteen  men  were 
dangerously  wounded.  It  was  with  great  difficulty  that  the  sur- 
vivors contrived  to  carry  off  their  dead  and  wounded."  * 

The  officer  who  succeeded  Captain  Croker  in  com- 
mand saw  the  absolute  folly  of  losing  any  more  men, 
and  relinquished  all  thoughts  of  renewing  the  attack. 
One  or  two  carronades  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the 

*  '  Tonga  and  the  Friendly  Islands.'  By  S.  S.  Farmer.  London,  1855. 
Page  325  et  seq. 


CAPTAIN  CHOKER'S  DEFEAT.  239 

Tonguese.  As  the  case  stood,  the  British  Government 
did  not  deem  it  just  to  ask  for  any  reparation,  and  simply 
demanded  the  guns  left  behind.  However,  the  Ton- 
guese were  not  slow  in  taking  advantage  of  this  turn  of 
affairs,  and  quite  ignoring  that  it  was  their  own  govern- 
ment as  much  as  the  foreigners  who  were  repulsed,  they 
have  magnified  the  catastrophe  into  a  grand  victory,  and 
become  so  arrogant,  that  Captain  Cook,  could  he  pay 
them  another  visit,  would  never  dream  of  confirming  the 
name  of  the  "  Friendly  Islanders"  which  he  gave  them, 
in  total  ignorance  of  the  fact,  related  by  Mariner,  that 
they  had  laid  two  plots  to  take  his  life,  not  carried  out 
because  no  agreement  could  be  arrived  at  respecting  the 
details  of  the  projected  murder.* 

Ethnologists  have  long  been  watching  the  spread  of 
the  Tonguese  over  the  South  Sea,  and  Viti  has  become 
a  field  of  high  interest,  as  the  light-coloured  Tonguese, 
a  genuine  Polynesian  people,  have  here  met  face  to  face 
powerful  representatives  of  the  dark-coloured  Papuan 
race.  •  There  seems  to  have  been  an  intercourse  between 
Fiji  and  Tonga  from  time  immemorial,  distinctly  spoken 
of  in  the  story  of  the  Vasu  ki  Lagi  and  the  Princess 
Vilivili-tabua,  and  other  ancient  Fijian  legends,  as,  for 
instance,  that  about  the  spread  of  the  practice  of  tatoo- 
ing.  Independent  of  this  legendary  evidence,  there  are 
other  proofs  of  an  early  intercourse.  The  Tonga  islands 
not  furnishing  any  large  timber,  it  was  necessary  to  go 
to  Fiji  for  materials  for  canoes.  Fine  mats  and  native 
cloth,  printed  in  choice  patterns,  were  bartered  away  for 
permission  to  cut  timber  and  build  canoes.  The  eastern 

*  Mariner's  '  Tonga,'  vol.  ii.  pp.  64,  65. 


240  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

parts  of  Fiji,  Lakeba,  and  the  adjacent  islands,  being 
the  most  accessible  from  their  proximity  to  Tonga,  were 
those  chiefly  visited ;  and  as  it  took  considerable  time  to 
construct  the  larger  canoes,  a  strong  influx  of  Tonguese 
blood  was  soon  perceptible  in  the  population  of  those 
districts.  Not  unfrequently  it  happened  that  parties 
going  or  coming  were  drifted  by  the  prevailing  winds 
on  the  shores  of  Kadavu,  and  hence  the  mixed  race  in- 
habiting that  fine  island  is  accounted  for.  Lakeba  and 
Cakaudrove  were  formerly  intimately  connected,  and 
the  latter  being  the  high-road  to  Bua,  the  Tonguese 
seem  to  have  become  introduced  to  the  locality,  where, 
above  all  others,  the  famous  Sandal-wood  (Yasi),  so 
highly  valued  both  in  Tonga  and  Samoa  for  scenting 
cocoa-nut  oil,  grew  in  abundance.*  They  were  not  long 
before  they  made  regular  trading  voyages  to  Bua,  bring- 
ing with  them  printed  tapa,  fine  mats,  and  large  pearl- 
shells,  skilfully  inlaid  with  pieces  of  whales'-teeth.  Hav- 
ing often  to  wait  two  or  three  months  before  a  cargo 
of  sandal-wood  could  be  got  ready,  a  close  intimacy 
naturally  sprang  up  between  the  trading  parties,  inter- 
marriages took  place,  and  thus  another  district  received 
a  mixed  population. 

Up  to  this  period  the  Tonguese  had  been  peaceful 
traders,  glad  to  exchange  their  manufactures  for  na- 
tural products  denied  to  their  own  islands.  Gradually 
they  adopted  a  different  line  of  policy.  Being  men  of 
athletic  frames,  of  courage  and  daring,  they  were  often 

*  Cakaudrove  (=  Thakaundrove)  lias  been  corrupted  by  the  Tonguese 
into  "  Tacownove,"  and  in  some  old  charts  is  applied  to  the  whole  of  Va- 
nua  Levu. 


MAAFU.  241 

asked  to  assist  in  the  feuds  in  which  chiefs  friendly 
to  them  were  engaged,  receiving  canoes  and  other  pro- 
perty in  return  for  their  services.  From  being  mere 
mercenaries,  they  gradually  began  to  act  on  their  own 
responsibility,  readily  avenging  every  outrage  from  time 
to  time  committed  against  any  of  their  countrymen  on 
the  smaller  islands  of  the  eastern  group,  where  they 
could  calculate  the  exact  number  of  their  possible  op- 
ponents.* 

With  the  constantly  increasing  influx  of  Tongan 
immigration,  chiefs  came  over,  who  undertook  the  ma- 
nagement of  their  countrymen,  and  among  them  Tui 
Hala  Fatai,  mentioned  by  Mariner,  and  Tuboi  Tutai, 
spoken  of  as  Tuboi  Totai  by  Wilkes.  About  1848, 
Maafu,  another  of  their  chiefs,  and  destined  to  exer- 
cise a  vast  influence  on  Fijian  affairs,  made  his  ap- 
pearance. Married  to  one  of  the  highest  ladies  of  his 
native  country,  descended  from  the  ancient  royal  line 
(Finau),  gifted  with  great  personal  advantages,  and 
possessing  as  comprehensive  and  ambitious  a  mind  as 
rarely  falls  to  the  lot  of  a  Polynesian,  Maafu  began  to 
prove  a  dangerous  rival  to  King  George,  the  chief 
seated  on  the  throne  of  his  ancestors.  He  had  already 
shown  his  disposition  in  a  sandal-wood  expedition  to 
the  New  Hebrides,  which  originated  with  Messrs.  Henry 
and  Scott. 

"  About  December,  1842,  two  vessels  under  British  colours, 
the  '  Sophia '  and  '  Sultana/  and  a  third  which  was  said  to  have 
carried  the  flag  of  Tahiti,  arrived  [at  Tonga]  to  raise  a  party 
for  the  purpose  of  forcibly  cutting  sandal-wood  at  the  New 

*  Compare  Mariner's  'Tonga,'  vol.  i.  p.  72-76. 

R 


242  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

Hebrides.  A  brother  of  the  late  King  Josiah,  Maafu,  engaged 
with  the  leader  of  the  expedition  (Henry)  to  furnish  sixty  men. 
They  touched  at  Lakeba  to  reinforce  their  numbers,  but  could 
not  procure  volunteers,  and  continued  their  course  to  Eromango. 
Here  the  party,  armed  with  muskets,  were  landed,  and  a  quan- 
tity of  sandal-wood  cut  and  embarked.  The  natives  continued 
friendly  for  the  first  few  days,  but  at  the  end  of  that  time,  some 
of  them  having  stolen  three  axes,  a  disturbance  took  place,  when 
one  of  the  supposed  thieves  was  shot  by  the  Tongans.  The  fire 
was  returned  by  arrows,  which  wounded  a  Tongan,  who  after- 
wards died.  In  consequence  of  this  affray  they  left  Eromango, 
and  proceeded  to  Vate,  or  Sandwich  Island,  where  he  and  his 
men  were  again  landed,  armed,  and  directed  to  cut  wood,  the 
white  men  remaining  on  board  of  their  vessels.  Before  long 
they  had  a  battle  with  the  natives,  who,  having  no  muskets, 
were  defeated  with  a  loss  of  twenty-six  killed,  none  of  the  in- 
truders being  injured.  A  fort  was  afterwards  stormed  and 
taken,  when  several  more  were  killed ;  the  remainder  retreating 
to  an  island,  where  they  hid  themselves  in  a  cave,  whither  they 
were  pursued  by  Maafu  and  his  party.  After  firing  into  the 
cave,  which  seemed  to  have  no  effect,  the  besiegers,  pulling 
down  some  neighbouring  houses,  piled  the  materials  in  a  heap 
at  its  mouth,  and,  setting  fire  to  it,  suffocated  them  all."* 

King  George,  the  present  ruler  of  Tongaf ,  having 
subdued  a  rebellion  in  which  Maafu  took  a  prominent 
part,  deemed  it  prudent  to  send  Maafu  to  Fiji,  osten- 
sibly for  the  purpose  of  keeping  his  countrymen  in 
order,  but  really  to  get  him  out  of  the  way.  At  the 
Same  time  a  hint,  perhaps  more  than  a  hint,  was  thrown 
out  that  no  objections  would  be  made  if  Maafu  did 
in  Fiji  what  King  George  had  done  in  Tonga,  make 
himself  master  of  the  whole  group.  Maafu's  first  ex- 

*  Eskine, '  Western  Pacific,'  p.  143.    Behaving,  in  fact,  as  barbarously  to 
them  as  a  few  years  later  a  French  General  did  to  an  Algerian  tribe, 
t  Farmer's  '  Tonga  and  the  Friendly  Islands,'  p.  398. 


MAAFU.  243 

ploit  took  place  at  Lomolomo.  Two  Fijian  chiefs  fight- 
ing against  each  other,  Maafu's  assistance  was  solicited, 
and  readily  given  to  the  weaker  party,  to  which  a  Ton- 
guese  teacher  of  Christianity  was  attached.  After  the 
stronger  party  had  been  defeated  by  the  combined 
efforts  of  its  Fijian  and  Tonguese  opponents,  the  native 
conquerors  found  themselves  so  heavily  indebted  to 
their  foreign  ally,  and  so  much  in  his  power,  that  they 
became  easy  victims  to  his  intrigues  to  usurp  their  au- 
thority altogether.  Maafu  never  espoused  a  cause  on 
its  own  merits.  The  principle  upon  which,  in  this  in- 
stance, and  in  almost  every  other,  he  seems  to  have 
acted,  was  to  assist  the  weaker  party  against  the 
stronger,  and  after  its  defeat  turn  round  upon  his 
allies,  with  whose  weaknesses  he  had  become  perfectly 
acquainted  during  their  familiar  intercourse.*  The 
quarrel  at  Lomolomo  made  him  master  of  the  whole 
grouplet  of  Vanua  Balavu,  and  having  thus  obtained  a 
solid  footing,  his  rise  was  rapid.  Elated  with  success, 
he  used  to  challenge  any  chiefs  to  try  their  courage  and 
skill  in  a  canoe  of  equal  size,  and  with  an  equal  number 
of  men  to  his  own ;  but  no  one,  not  even  Ratu  Mara, 
justly  looked  upon  as  the  most  able  sailor  and  comman- 
der of  Fiji,  could  be  induced  to  accept  the  challenge. 
The  second  opportunity  that  presented  itself  to  Maafu 
for  extending  his  power  was  offered  by  interfering  at 
Matuka.  There  again  two  chiefs  were  quarrelling,  and 
the  party  to  which  the  Tonguese  teacher  belonged,  was 

*  Even  in  Tonga  his  conduct  was  identically  the  same.  Compare 
Farmer's  detailed  account  of  the  rebellion  in  which  he  took  part.  '  Tonga 
and  the  Friendly  Islands,'  p.  398. 

R   2 


244  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

again  the  weaker.  In  a  fight  between  the  hostile  par- 
ties the  Christian  chapel  and  the  house  of  the  teacher 
caught  fire,  and  were  totally  destroyed.  Maafu  at  once 
set  off  to  avenge  the  injury  done  to  his  countryman,  took 
the  side  of  the  weaker  party,  defeated  the  stronger ;  and 
then,  turning  round  upon  his  friends,  displaced  their 
rightful  chief  by  one  of  his  own  creatures.  A  similar 
affray  took  place  at  Muala,  where  Maafu,  by  hook  or 
by  crook,  was  again  victorious. 

In  March,  1855,  King  George  of  Tonga  availed  him- 
self of  the  opportunity  presented  by  the  missionary 
vessel  '  John  Wesley,'  to  pay  a  visit  of  state  to  Cakobau, 
the  supreme  chief  of  Bau,  and  titular  King  of  Fiji. 
Cakobau  was  at  that  particular  time  in  considerable 
trouble.  Kaba,  an  important  place  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  his  capital,  was  in  open  rebellion  against  him, 
headed  by  Eatu  Mara ;  and  as  he  had  but  recently  lost 
much  of  his  influence  by  renouncing  heathenism,  he 
felt  himself  scarcely  strong  enough  to  put  down  Kaba 
single-handed.  In  an  evil  hour  he  was  persuaded  to 
apply  to  King  George  for  assistance,  and  the  latter  rea- 
dily complied,  on  being  presented  with  a  canoe  fifteen 
fathoms  long  for  the  promise  of  assistance.  A  large 
fleet  of  canoes,  and  a  strong  reinforcement  of  warriors, 
soon  arrived  from  King  George's  dominions.  By  the 
combined  forces  of  Bau  and  Tonga,  Kaba,  to  Fijian  no- 
tions an  impregnable  fortress,  was  taken  (April  7th, 
1855*),  and  the  authority  of  Cakobau  re-established. 

Maafu  and  his  countrymen  had  prominently  distin- 
guished themselves  on  this  occasion,  and  their  exploits 

*  J.  Waterliouse,  '  Vali-tah-ah,'  pp.  111-121. 


AN   UNEXPECTED   ARRIVAL.  245 

were  the  subject  of  comment  in  the  remotest  parts  of 
the  group.  Bau  acquitted  itself  handsomely  of  the 
debt  it  owed,  by  presenting  King  George  with  the  '  Ca- 
kobau,'  a  schooner  of  eighty  tons  built  in  the  United 
States.  The  example  set  by  Bau,  of  putting  down  re- 
bellion at  home  by  foreign  assistance,  was  speedily  fol- 
lowed by  another  Fijian  state.  Kabe  (=  Rambeh),  an 
island  of  considerable  size,  had  disputed  the  authority 
of  the  ruling  chief  of  Cakaudrove,  Tui  Cakau;  and  King 
George  having  proffered  assistance,  it  was  readily  ac- 
cepted by  Tui  Cakau.  Rabe  fell,  and  the  Tonguese 
were  in  the  habit  of  calling  it  their  own,  until,  in  1860, 
Maafu,  in  the  name  of  King  George,  received  payment 
for  the  assistance  rendered. 

The  conquest  of  Kaba  and  Babe  had  conferred  upon 
Maafu  and  his  followers  such  a  high  prestige  that  the 
Fijian  chiefs  began  to  tremble  for  their  own  safety,  and 
the  impolicy  of  calling  in  foreigners  to  suppress  rebel- 
lion at  home  seemed  to  dawn  upon  the  more  far-seeing 
among  them.  Maafu  was  not  slow  in  perceiving  the  advan- 
tage he  had  gained,  and  his  favourite  plan  of  subduing 
the  whole  of  Fiji  appeared  now  to  have  arrived  at  ma- 
turity. By  cunning  intriguing  and  a  bold  system  of 
warfare,  he  hoped  to  carry  it  into  execution.  Returning 
to  Lomolomo,  he  set  about  building  a  schooner  of  thirty- 
five  tons,  which  should  at  once  place  him  at  an  advan- 
tage with  enemies  who  had  to  rely  solely  upon  canoes. 
Nor  did  he  fail  to  make  other  preparations  for  conquest, 
and  he  would  have  commenced  hostile  operations  with- 
out delay,  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  unexpected  arrival 
of  H.  B.  M.  Consul,  Mr.  W.  Pritchard,  who  landed  in 


246  A   MISSION    TO    VITI. 

Fiji  on  the  10th  of  September,  1858,  to  take  up  his 
permanent  abode  in  this  important  group.  Bau  was 
again  in  trouble.  For  various  outrages  asserted  to  have 
been  committed  against  the  life  and  property  of  Ame- 
rican citizens,  the  Government  of  the  United  States  de- 
manded indemnity  from  Cakobau,  as  supreme  chief  of 
Bau  and  titular  King  of  Fiji.  The  corvette  '  Vandalia,' 
Captain  Sinclair,  had  been  sent  to  enforce  the  claim, 
and  as  the  sum  of  45,000  dollars  was  altogether  beyond 
the  means  of  the  Fijian  King  to  pay,  overtures  were 
made  to  Mr.  Pritchard  for  the  cession  of  Fiji  to  Great 
Britain,  on  condition  that  this  sum,  which  the  natives 
were  going  to  refund  by  assigning  the  proprietorship  of 
200,000  acres  of  land,  be  liquidated.  In  November, 
1858,  Mr.  Pritchard  departed  home  to  lay  this  offer  be- 
fore her  Britannic  Majesty's  Government,  and  no  sooner 
had  he  left  the  group  than  Maafu  commenced  operations. 
Eitova  and  Bete,  chiefs  of  the  Macuata  coast  of  Vanua 
Levu,  were  fighting  out  some  old  family  feuds.  Bete, 
being  worsted,  concluded  an  alliance  with  Tui  Bua,  an- 
other chief  of  importance  on  the  south-western  coast 
of  Vanua  Levu,  who  owed  Eitova  a  grudge  for  a  defeat 
in  a  former  war.  But  even  thus  strengthened,  Bete  was 
unable  to  cope  with  his  rival.  Maafu  saw  that  here 
was  his  chance.  Friendly  messages  were  dispatched  to 
Eitova,  who,  delighted  with  the  moral  support  of  so 
powerful  a  chief,  forwarded  sail-mats  and  other  valu- 
able presents.  At  the  same  time  Maafu  sent  messages 
equally  friendly,  but  more  sincere,  to  Tui  Bua,  and 
through  the  Tonguese  residing  there  prompted  him  to 
apply  for  assistance  against  Eitova.  This  idea  was  no 


TONGUESE   ATTACKING   RITOVA.  247 

sooner  suggested  than  carried  into  effect,  and  Maafu 
became  the  declared  ally  of  Tui  Bua  and  Bete. 

This  new  combination  could  not  but  excite  deep  ap- 
prehensions at  Bau,   as  tending  to  derange  that  poli- 
tical balance  which  that  power  deemed  it  necessary  to 
uphold  in  order  to  maintain  its    supremacy.     Maafu, 
duly  informed  of  the  cloud  gathering  in  that  quarter, 
repaired  straightway  to    the    capital,  and  almost  suc- 
ceeded in  dispelling  it.     He    made    out  that   he   had 
sent  only  a  few  men  under  the  charge  of  his  officer 
Wai-ni-golo,  and  he  even  endeavoured  to  persuade  Ca- 
kobau  to  aid  him  by  dispatching  canoes  to  the  scene  of 
action,  as  the  whole  affair  when  terminated  would  add 
fresh  lustre  to  the  supremacy  of  Bau.     Cakobau  how- 
ever contented  himself  with  ordering  one  canoe  to  ac- 
company  the   expedition,   more  to   watch    proceedings 
and  furnish  correct  reports  than  to  take  any  active  share 
in  the  operations.     On  leaving  Bau,  Maafu  gave  out 
that  he  was  going  direct  to  Bua,  to  see  how  his  men 
were  getting  on,  instead  of  which  he  proceeded  to  Lo- 
molomo  for  reinforcement.     Wai-ni-golo,  the  Tonguese 
officer  previously  sent  to  Bua,  had  orders  to  provoke  a 
direct  quarrel  with  Kitova ;  he  obeyed  them  by  taking 
two   villages  and  putting  most  of  the  inhabitants  to 
death.     By  the  time  this  was  accomplished  Maafu  and 
the  reinforcement  arrived  at  Bua,  where  Tui  Bua  was 
taken  on  board  the  Tonguese  schooner,  and  the  whole 
party  proceeded  to  the  Macuata  coast.     The  combined 
forces  now  took  town  after  town,  until  they  reached 
Nukubati,   Ritova's  stronghold,   which,   after  consider- 
able resistance,  fell  into  their  hands.     Ritova,  nothing 


248  A   MISSION  TO   ViTI. 

daunted,  retreated  to  the  mountains  at  the  back  of  Nu- 
kubati,  where  he  was  regularly  besieged.  But  fate  was 
against  him.  Chief  Bonaveidogo,  one  of  his  followers, 
at  this  critical  time  went  over  to  Maafu's  side,  to  save  his 
life  and  that  of  his  vassals  ;  and  Bitova,  finding  further 
resistance  on  the  Macuata  coast  hopeless,  escaped  with 
the  remnant  still  firm  to  him  across  the  mountains  to 
Solevu,  where  Tui  Wai  Nunu,  a  chief  friendly  to  him, 
resided. 

Solevu  (Sualib,  of  Wilkes)  is  a  little  district  on  the 
southern  side  of  Vanua  Levu,  between  Bua  and  Cakau- 
drove,  which  acknowledged  a  sort  of  vassalage  to  Bau, 
but  was  otherwise  independent.  In  order  to  humour 
Tui  Bua,  who  was  eager  to  annex  this  district  to  his 
territories,  Maafu  had  promised  to  subject  it  for  him, 
and  with  that  view  had  already  left  in  it  a  detachment 
of  men.  By  Ritova's  retreat  to  this  very  district,  a  fine 
opportunity  of  killing  two  birds  with  one  stone  pre- 
sented itself.  Rounding  the  western  parts  of  Yanua 
Levu,  the  allied  forces  appeared  before  the  town  of  So- 
levu, which,  being  strongly  fortified,  held  out  against 
the  invaders  three  whole  months.  At  the  end  of  that 
time,  the  besieged  were  in  extreme  want  of  fresh  water, 
the  besiegers  having  diverted  a  rivulet  supplying  the 
town  from  its  course,  and  all  the  wells  being  dry.  Un- 
able to  hold  out  any  longer,  Solevu  surrendered.  When 
Ritova  and  Tui  Wai  Nunu  heard  this  news,  they  per- 
ceived it  was  hopeless  to  prolong  the  struggle.  Mean- 
while Maafu  had  caused  it  to  be  known  that  he  had 
promised  Mr.  Swanston,  the  acting  British  Consul,  to 
spare  Ritova's  life,  if  he  were  taken.  Ritova  therefore 


DISPOSAL    OF    CONQUERED    TERRITORIES.  249 

thought  it  advisable  to  give  himself  up,  and  for  some 
time  he  was  a  prisoner  under  the  immediate  eye  of  the 
victorious  chief.  But  Maafu's  followers  were  most  un- 
willing to  see  this  promise  kept ;  they  pressed  him  hard 
to  get  rid  of  a  man  at  once  so  bold  and  so  dangerous. 
Maafu,  on  one  side  assailed  by  his  unruly  mob,  on  the 
other  bound  by  a  promise  which  he  deemed  it  prudent 
not  to  treat  lightly,  solved  the  dilemma  by  allowing  Ki- 
tova  to  escape  to  Cakaudrove,  and  in  order  to  blind  his 
vassals  and  allies,  he  pretended  to  be  enraged  at  his  es- 
cape, and  dispatched  men  in  pursuit  of  the  fugitive. 

Maafu  now  proceeded  to  dispose  of  the  conquered 
territories.  Solevu  was  annexed  to  Tui  Bua's  dominion ; 
the  western  part  of  Macuata  was  placed  under  Bete, 
the  eastern  under  Bonaveidogo,  with  the  express  under- 
standing that  each  of  the  favoured  parties  had  to  pay  a 
stipulated  tribute.  In  this  distribution,  the  claims  of 
Bau  on  Solevu  had  been  altogether  disregarded.  If  any- 
thing had  been  wanting  to  open  the  eyes  of  Cakobau,  it 
was  furnished  by  these  high-handed  proceedings,  which 
sounded  like  scorn  to  a  proud  people,  who  had  been  led 
to  believe  that  whatever  was  done  in  this  war  would 
tend  towards  extending  and  consolidating  the  autho- 
rity of  the  supreme  power  in  Fiji.  More  humiliation 
was  in  store  for  Bau.  In  order  to  avoid  as  long  as  pos- 
sible a  direct  contest  with  that  state,  Maafu  retired  to 
Lomolomo  to  direct  his  operations.  Bau  was  to  be  got 
between  two  fires.  A  strong  fleet  of  canoes  was  dis- 
patched to  Bega,  an  island,  through  Rewa,  subject  to 
Bau,  and  which,  overawed  by  the  superior  force  suddenly 
appearing,  gave  itself  up  to  the  Tonguese ;  whilst  Tui 


250  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

Bua  was  directed  to  get  up  a  quarrel  at  Rakiraki,  the 
north-eastern  district  of  Viti  Levu,  subject  to  Bau 
through  Viwa.  Everything  was  thus  progressing  favour- 
ably, and  a  few  months  more  would  have  brought  about 
the  overthrow  of  Bau,  making  Maafu  virtually  master 
of  all  Fiji.  At  this  critical  moment  Mr.  Pritchard  re- 
turned from  England  with  intimation  that  her  Britannic 
Majesty's  Government  had  taken  the  cession  into  favour- 
able consideration.  Soon  after  his  arrival,  a  meeting  of 
Fijian  chiefs  took  place  at  the  British  Consulate,  in 
Levuka,  with  the  view  of  ratifying  the  cession  made  by 
Cakobau,  and  they  availed  themselves  of  the  opportunity 
to  appeal  to  Mr.  Pritchard  to  check  Maafu's  grasping 
career.  They  founded  this  appeal  upon  the  fact  that 
Fiji  was  already  ceded  to  the  Queen  of  Great  Britain, 
and  that  Maafu,  as  a  foreigner,  was  taking  the  country 
from  her.  After  a  tedious  discussion  of  five  hours,  Maafu 
consented  to  renounce  all  political  claims  on  and  in  Fiji, 
and  the  lands  conquered,  by  signing  an  instrument  to 
that  effect,  in  the  presence  of  all  the  chiefs  assembled, 
her  Britannic  Majesty's  Consul,  and  Commander  Cam- 
pion, of  her  Majesty's  ship  Elk.* 

"Know  all  men  by  these  presents, — 1.  That  I,  Maafu,  a 
Chief  of  and  in  Tonga,  do  hereby  expressly  and  definitely  state, 
that  I  am  in  Fiji  by  the  orders  of  George,  King  of  Tonga,  as 
his  representative,  and  that  I  am  here  solely  to  manage  and 
control  the  Tonguese  in  Fiji.  2.  That  I  have,  hold,  exercise, 
and  enjoy  no  position  nor  claim  as  a  chief  of  or  in  Fiji.  3.  That 
all  Tonguese  claims  in  or  to  Fiji  are  hereby  renounced.  4.  That 
no  Tonguese  in  Fiji  shall  exact  or  demand  anything  whatever 

*  The  English  version  of  this  document  is  here  subjoined  ;  one  of  the 
copies  of  it  I  brought  home  is  now  in  the  library  of  the  British  Museum. 


MAAFU   EENOUNCING    CLAIMS    OF   FIJI.  251 

from  any  Fijian,  under  any  circumstances  whatever,  but  they 
shall  enjoy  the  privileges  and  rights  accorded  to  other  nations 
in  Fiji.  5.  That  the  lands  and  districts  of  Fiji  which  have 
been  offered  by  various  chiefs  to  me  are  not  accepted,  and  are 
not  mine,  nor  are  they  Tonguese,  but  solely  and  wholly  Fijian. 
6.  That  the  cession  of  Fiji  to  England  is  hereby  acknowledged. 
In  witness  whereof  I  have  hereto  set  my  name,  this  14th  day 
of  December,  1859.  MAAFU. 

"We  hereby  certify  that  the  foregoing  Chief  Maafu  signed  the 
above  document  in  our  presence,  this  14th  day  of  December, 
1859. — WILLIAM  T.  PEITCHARD,  Consul;  H.  CAMPION,  Comman- 
der R.N.,  H.M.S.  Elk. 

We  hereby  certify  that  we  translated  the  foregoing  docu- 
ment to  Maafu,  a  Chief  of  Tonga,  who  has  signed,  and  that  he 
thoroughly  understands  its  meaning. — W.  COLLIS,  Wesleyan 
Training  Master ;  E.  P.  MARTIN,  Wesleyan  Mission  Printer." 

The  peace  of  the  group,  which,  to  the  serious  disadvan- 
tage of  trade,  had  been  so  long  interrupted,  was  thus  at 
length  re-established ;  but  the  wounds  inflicted  by  the 
war  were  not  so  easily  healed.  The  Tonguese  did  not 
content  themselves  with  merely  taking  a  place.  They 
plundered  and  set  fire  to  the  dwellings,  cut  down  the 
fruit-trees,  filled  up  the  wells,  ravished  the  women,  and 
put  to  death  as  many  of  the  fighting-men  as  their  fero- 
city prompted  them  ;  even  those  who  had  given  them- 
selves up  as  prisoners  were  often  mercilessly  murdered 
in  cold  blood.  When  Maafu  and  his  hordes  had  been 
at  a  place,  it  was  as  if  a  host  of  locusts  had  descended. 
Not  only  had  every  vestige  of  provisions,  pigs,  fowls, 
yams,  and  taros  been  devoured  or  carried  off,  but  the 
plantations  themselves  had  been  ruthlessly  destroyed, 
forcing  the  poor  natives  to  seek  such  wild  roots  as  would 
enable  them  to  eke  out  their  miserable  existence.  Yet, 


252  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

after  all  their  provisions,  tools,  native  cloth,  canoes,  and 
other  moveables  had  either  been  carried  off  or  destroyed, 
they  had  to  set  to  work  making  cocoa-nut  oil,  sail-mats, 
and  other  articles  for  their  conquerors.  The  intensity 
with  which  a  Fijian  hates  a  Tonguese  need  therefore 
cause  no  surprise.  Yet  there  were  not  wanting  people 
who  applauded  what  had  been  done,  and  who  were 
rather  displeased  to  see  the  policy  pursued  by  the  in- 
vaders brought  to  such  a  sudden  conclusion.  Maafu 
knew  full  well  that  he  stood  in  need  of  such  friends, 
and  he  had  set  early  about  making  them.  He  had 
three  different  bodies  to  interest  in  his  conquest, — his 
own  immediate  followers,  the  foreign  traders,  and  the 
Wesleyan  missionaries.  The  Tonguese  were  easily  at- 
tached to  his  cause  by  giving  them  unlimited  license  to 
rob  and  plunder  the  country,  and  ravish  the  women ;  the 
foreign  traders  he  made  his  supporters,  by  running  up 
heavy  bills  for  powder,  shot,  arid  general  stores,  which 
stood  no  chance  of  being  paid,  unless  it  was  in  contri- 
butions in  cocoa-nut  oil,  tortoiseshell,  and  beche-de~mer, 
extorted  from  the  conquered  places  ;  whilst  the  Wes- 
leyan missionaries  were  kept  quiet  by  Maafu  making  it 
the  first  condition,  in  arranging  articles  of  peace,  that 
the  conquered  should  renounce  heathenism  and  become 
Christians.  The  thousands  of  converts  thus  added  to 
their  flock,  completely  blinded  the  missionaries  to  the 
danger  they  were  incurring  in  coquetting  with  so  un- 
scrupulous an  adventurer.  It  was  only  after  Macuata 
had  been  reduced,  and  public  opinion  had  severely  con- 
demned the  massacre  of  prisoners  at  Natakala  and  Na- 
duri  by  Jamisi,  one  of  Maafu's  officers,  that  they  saw 


DEFENCE    OF   THE    MISSIONARIES.  253 

the  necessity  of  protesting  against  the  unsanctioned  use 
which  had  been  made  of  their  name. 

I  shall  probably  be  accused,  by  those  versed  in  Fijian 
affairs,  of  an  undue  partiality  for  the  Wesleyan  mission- 
aries, by  viewing  their  conduct  in  the  light  I  do,  and 
endeavouring  to  separate  the  doings  of  the  missionaries 
from  those  of  the  barbarous  hordes  who  overran  the 
country.  I  admit  that  the  latter  is  a  matter  of  no  slight 
difficulty.  Christianity  had  early  taken  root  in  Tonga ; 
and  when,  in  1835,  the  Wesleyans  in  that  group  deter- 
mined to  extend  their  operations  to  Fiji,  they  naturally 
fixed  upon  Lakeba,  and  those  parts  where  a  strong  popu- 
lation of  Tonguese  was  already  established,  and  where 
they  could  use  a  language  familiar  to  them  until  Fijian 
nad  been  learnt.  Tongamen  were  found  extremely  well 
qualified  for  acting  as  pioneers  in  teaching  the  rudi- 
ments of  the  Christian  faith ;  and  during  the  whole 
period  that  the  Wesleyans  have  been  labouring  for  the 
conversion  of  Fiji,  they  have  employed  a  large  number 
of  them.  They  were  spread  over  the  whole  country,  and, 
unfortunately,  became  in  Maafu's  hand,  ready  instru- 
ments for  the  execution  of  his  plans.  They  supplied 
him  with  reliable  information  about  the  quarrels,  weak- 
nesses, and  resources  of  the  different  territories,  were 
never  tired  of  praising  their  great  chief,  and  ever  ready 
to  prompt  the  Fijian  rulers  to  apply  to  him  in  cases  of 
dispute  and  war.  All  these  facts  cannot  be  gainsaid ; 
and  those  must  be  strangely  ignorant  of  the  working 
of  the  Polynesian  mind,  who  fancy  that  doctrines  of 
so  recent  a  growth  as  those  of  Christianity  would  ever 
induce  a  native  of  subordinate  position  to  remain  in- 


254  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

different  to  the  wishes  and  orders  of  his  chief.  When 
King  George  visited  Fiji,  it  was  in  the  '  John  Wesley/ 
and  it  was  on  board  of  that  vessel  the  arrangement  rela- 
lative  to  the  subjugation  of  Kaba  was  concluded.  Fi- 
nally, nothing  was  said  by  the  missionaries  whilst  Maafu 
achieved  his  conquest,  and  it  was  only  after  great  atro- 
cities had  been  committed  that  a  letter  of  remonstrance 
was  addressed  to  him.* 

Yet,  notwithstanding  these  facts,  occasionally  urged 
with  great  vehemence,  I  dismiss,  as  utterly  unfounded, 
the  idea  that  the  missionaries  concocted  the  whole  plan 
with  the  Tonguese.  A  calm  review  of  all  the  informa- 
tion on  hand,  rather  leads  to  the  conclusion  that  Maafu 
was  leading  the  missionaries  to  believe  that  he  was  ad- 
vancing their  interest,  when  indeed  he  only  abused  their 

*  The  following  is  a  copy  of  a  letter  sent  to  Maafu,  extracted  from  the 
records  of  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  at  Sydney,  by  the  Hev.  J. 
Eggleston  : — 

"There  is  something,  Sir,  which  I  wish  to  tell  you,  i.e.  our  hatred  of 
the  deed  performed  at  Nabekavu  amongst  the  people  of  Natakala.  It  was 
of  no  use  whatever.  If  it  was  not  done  by  your  orders,  please  inform  me, 
that  I  may  defend  your  character.  There  is  another  subject  which  I  de- 
sire also  to  make  known.  It  is  extensively  reported  that  this  war  is  the 
work  of  the  missionaries.  If  this  be  true,  tell  me  now  which  of  us  has 
sanctioned  the  hostile  proceedings.  Was  it  me,  or  whom?  Please  inform 
me,  for  it  will  be  published  prejudicially  all  over  the  world.  If  we  are 
belied,  be  kind  enough  to  vindicate  us  in  your  letter  to  me.  Tell  your 
people  also  to  announce  you  (as  the  author),  and  not  to  announce  us.  I  do 
not  wish  to  prevent  your  approach  to  Ulumatua  and  Wai  JSTunu.  Please 
yourself  about  this  ;  for  yours  is  its  goodness,  and  yours  is  its  evil.  But 
command  your  warriors  to  announce  you  ;  do  not  let  them  announce  us,  as 
we  do  not  sanction  it  in  the  least.  It  is  also  rumoured  that  it  is  our  ad- 
vice that  Mara,  Bitova,  Tui  Levuka,  and  another  be  put  to  death.  If  you 
seize  these,  do  not  deliver  them  to  be  killed,  lest  it  be  said  that  it  is  by  our 
advice.  We  have  not  come  to  make  known  a  message  of  death ;  our  work 
allotted  to  us  is  preaching.  But  if  a  man  disturb  the  country,  let  his  chief 
bring  him  to  a  trial.— 30^  July,  1859." 

[I  have  not  seen  the  answer  to  this  letter,  if  there  was  one.— B.  £] 


TONGUESE   TACTICS.  255 

name  in  order  to  advance  his  own  ;  and  they  perceived 
too  late  that  they  had  been  made  the  dupes  of  an  un- 
scrupulous and  ambitious  man. 

At  the  height  of  his  power,  Maafu  is  supposed  to  have 
had  no  less  than  three  thousand  fighting-men  of  his  own 
nation,  independent  of  his  Fijian  allies,  and  after  the 
signing  of  the  document  of  the  14th  of  December,  1859, 
had  placed  a  curb  on  his  ambition,  the  number  re- 
maining was  still  sufficiently  great  to  cause  uneasiness 
to  the  natives.  On  the  part  of  Mr.  Pritchard  it  re- 
quired extreme  watchfulness,  lest  the  bloodshed  which 
had  so  seriously  diminished  the  population  and  injured 
the  prosperity  of  the  islands  should  be  renewed.  Maafu 
exhibited  little  inclination  to  return  to  Tonga;  there 
was  still  hope  that,  in  case  England  should  reject  the 
proffered  cession,  the  conquest  of  the  whole  group  by 
Tonguese  arms  might  become  a  reality.  He  therefore 
enjoined  his  partisans  to  remain  quite  passive  until  the 
danger  was  past,  and  not  commit  any  rash  act.  A  cha- 
racteristic letter  to  that  effect  was  sent  in  the  middle  of 
1860  to  Bega  and  Kadavu,  the  contents  of  which  became 
a  public  secret.  But  men,  who  had  so  long  been  accus- 
tomed to  behave  with  all  the  insolence  of  conquerors, 
who  regarded  Fiji  in  no  other  light  save  a  fair  field  for 
lust  and  plunder,  and  would  not  disdain  to  plant  the 
battle-axe  in  the  public  squares,  and  insultingly  demand 
either  an  ample  supply  of  animal  and  vegetable  food  or 
the  heads  of  so  many  Fijians — such  men  were  not  easily 
kept  quiet.  Complaints  were  rife  wherever  Tongamen 
resided,  how  they  plundered  the  natives,  and  how,  by 
intimidation,  they  forced  the  weaker  chiefs  to  behave 


256  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

discourteously  towards  the  whites.  When  Colonel  Smythe 
visited  Lakeba,  he  found  its  chief  so  surrounded  by 
Tonguese,  and  so  much  under  their  immediate  influence, 
that  he  almost  repudiated  the  cession,  and  he  could 
scarcely  prevent  their  almost  insulting  him,  by  crowd- 
ing the  house  in  which  the  official  meeting  took  place 
to  an  inconvenient  degree.  It  is  impossible  to  deter- 
mine whether  the  Tonguese  were  emboldened  by  the 
impunity  with  which  they  had  been  able  to  show  them- 
selves so  troublesome  on  this  and  other  occasions,  or 
whether  the  nature  of  the  intercourse  of  Colonel  Smythe 
with  the  Fijian  chiefs  was  by  them  regarded  as  proof 
that  the  British  Government  was  dissatisfied  with  Mr. 
Pritchard's  checkmating  them ;  but  in  October,  1860, 
they  loudly  proclaimed  their  intention  to  interfere  once 
more  in  the  affairs  of  Macuata.  Chief  Eitova  was  to 
be  captured  and  sent  as  prisoner  to  Tonga,  whilst  the 
people  living  on  his  patrimonial  estates  of  the  islands 
of  Kia  and  Cikobia,  were  to  be  carried  over  in  a  body  to 
Udu,  and  placed  under  the  control  of  Chief  Bonaveidogo, 
whom  Maafu  had  rewarded  with  the  government  of 
eastern  Macuata. 

Eitova,  since  his  loss  of  power,  had  taken  up  a  tem- 
porary residence  at  Matei,  in  the  island  of  Taviuni,  where 
a  party  of  adherents  gradually  gathered  around  him. 
He  had  repeatedly  laid  his  case  before  Mr.  Pritchard, 
showing  how  unjustly  he  had  been  deprived  of  his  patri- 
monial estates,  and  asking  permission  to  accept  the  offer 
of  friendly  brother-chiefs,  to  reinstate  him  by  force  of 
arms.  Mr.  Pritchard  thought  an  appeal  to  arms  un- 
necessary, and  told  Eitova  that  his  case  should  be  taken 


MEETING   AT   WAI    KAVA.    -  257 

in  hand  as  soon  as  the  requisite  information  could  be 
collected.  The  exiled  chief  had  found  a  warm  sup- 
porter in  the  late  Mr.  Williams,  United  States  Consul, 
who  called  the  attention  of  his  Government  to  the  facts, 
that  since  Bitova's  removal,  American  whalers  had  been 
unable  to  obtain  supplies  on  the  northern  shores  of 
Vanua  Levu,  and  that  the  bSche-de-mer  trade  of  Macu- 
ata,  for  years  carried  on  by  enterprising  American  citi- 
zens, and  yielding  lucrative  returns,  had  become  totally 
extinct.  Mr.  Williams's  able  successor,  Dr.  Brower,  took 
the  same  view  of  the  matter.  Others  were  not  want- 
ing who  pointed  out  that  any  distribution  of  territories 
made  by  the  Tonguese  leader  had  become  null  and  void 
by  his  publicly  renouncing  every  right  of  interference  in 
the  affairs  of  Fiji. 

On  the  22nd  of  October,  1860,  a  meeting  was  held 
at  Wai  Kava  (Cakaudrove),  to  which  all  the  chiefs  of 
Vanua  Levu,  Ritova  amongst  them,  had  been  invited,  in 
order  to  give  Colonel  Smythe  an  opportunity  to  inquire 
into  their  views  respecting  the  cession  of  Fiji,  and  also 
to  discuss  with  Mr.  Pritchard  the  affairs  of  Macuata. 
Two  of  the  chiefs,  Tui  Bua  and  Bete,  did  not  appear;  the 
former  being  on  a  journey  when  the  message  was  sent, 
the  latter  pretending  that  the  notice  given  was  too  short 
to  enable  him  to  attend.  But  Bonaveidogo,  who  deserted 
Ritova  in  the  hour  of  trial  and  was  rewarded  for  his 
treachery  with  the  whole  of  eastern  Macuata,  had  made 
his  appearance.  Bonaveidogo  and  Ritova  had  not  seen 
each  other  since  then,  and  as  it  was  necessary,  for  the 
establishment  of  a  durable  peace,  that  the  two  should 
be  brought  face  to  face  before  the  public  meeting  took 

s 


258  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

place,  Mr.  Pritchard  arranged  an  interview.  Neither  of 
them  had  received  the  slightest  intimation  of  this  ar- 
rangement, and  when  Bitova  was  conducted  to  a  part 
of  the  house  screened  off  by  large  curtains  of  native 
cloth,  and  suddenly  found  himself  in  the  presence  of  a 
former  ally  and  a  present  enemy,  he  was  quite  startled  ; 
whilst  Bonaveidogo,  sitting  on  the  matted  floor,  evidently 
thought  his  last  moment  come,  and  involuntarily  grasped 
his  club.  When  the  object  of  the  interview  had  been 
explained  to  be  a  mutual  adjustment  of  old  grievances, 
both  chiefs  remained  mute  for  some  minutes.  "  Why 
did  you  club  Bete's  father  V  asked  Bonaveidogo,  in  the 
course  of  the  altercations  that  now  ensued.  "  Because," 
replied  Ritova,  tartly,  "  he  had  previously  clubbed  my 
father,  and  as  a  Fijian  chief  I  was  bound  to  resent;  if 
I  had  known,"  he  added  emphatically,  "  that  you  were 
going  to  betray  me,  I  should  not  have  hesitated  to  take 
your  life  also."  Words  ran  occasionally  very  high,  but 
gradually  the  two  disputants  grew  cool ;  they  promised 
mutually  to  forget  and  forgive,  and  finally  concluded  a 
peace  over  a  bowl  of  kava. 

After  the  meeting  about  the  cession  was  terminated, 
Mr.  Pritchard  declared  that,  having  carefully  gone  into 
Ritova's  case,  he  had  made  up  his  mind  to  restore  him 
to  his  home  on  Nukubati.  There  should  be  no  fighting, 
and  every  act  that  could  give  rise  to  provocation  must 
be  carefully  avoided.  This  announcement  caused  a  great 
sensation  amongst  the  chiefs  and  landholders  assembled. 
No  Fijian  chief,  driven  from  his  land,  had  ever  been 
known  to  return  without  hard  fighting ;  and  here  was  a 
white  man,  with  no  armed  force  to  back  him,  who  pro- 


RITOVA'S  PLACE  OF  EXILE.  259 

mised  to  do  in  his  own  peaceable  way  what  would  have 
cost  numbers  of  lives  if  done  in  Fijian  usage.  When  the 
natives  found  they  need  no  longer  fear  being  called 
to  account  by  Maafu's  bullies,  they  openly  rallied  round 
Bitova.  Tui  Cakau,  the  ruling  chief  of  Cakaudrove, 
offered  his  largest  canoe,  a  recent  present  from  Ban, 
for  Ritova's  use  ;  and  his  brother  Ratu  Golea,  chief  of 
Somosomo,  insisted  upon  seeing  the  exile  safe  home. 

Knowing  the  effect  produced  on  the  native  mind  by 
acting  with  promptitude,  the  next  morning  was  fixed 
for  starting.  At  sunrise,  the  schooner  '  Paul  Jones ' 
fired  a  gun  by  way  of  signal,  and  steered  for  Matei,  fol- 
lowed by  the  native  canoes,  and  having  on  board,  besides 
Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself,  Ritova  and  three  of  his  adhe- 
rents. One  of  the  latter  was  a  young  man,  whose  father 
was  a  strong  supporter  of  Bete,  Ritova's  rival ;  and  it 
was  probably  with  the  approbation  of  his  parent  that 
he  joined  Ritova — the  Fijian  knowing,  as  well  as  people 
nearer  home  did  in  the  time  of  the  rebellion,  that  it 
it  is  rather  politic  if,  in  a  doubtful  quarrel  between  two 
pretenders,  the  father  fight  on  one  side,  the  son  on  the 
other,  when,  come  what  may,  the  family  property  is  safe, 
and  there  is  alwajs  one  to  intercede  for  the  captive. 

Owing  to  the  calms  nearly  always  prevailing  in  the 
Straits  of  Somosomo,  Matei  was  not  reached  until  the 
second  day  after  our  departure,  when  Ritova  went  on 
shore  to  inform  his  people  of  what  had  passed,  and 
order  them  to  get  ready  for  starting  without  d,elay  for 
Nukubati.  Great  was  the  joy  caused  by  this  announce- 
ment, and  everything  was  at  once  bustle  and  activity. 
The  women  were  packing  up  the  household  goods ;  the 

S  2 


260  A    MISSION  TO   VITI. 

boys  and  young  men  hastened  to  the  forest  to  dig  wild 
yams,  and  catch  crabs  for  the  voyage  ;  whilst  the  old  men 
busied  themselves  about  the  canoes  and  other  matters 
requiring  more  skill  and  experience.  Eitova's  warriors 
were  all  able-bodied  men  with  fine  athletic  frames,  and 
well  armed.  A  collision  with  them  would  have  been 
attended  with  fatal  consequences.  They  were  much  ex- 
asperated at  the  proposal  of  the  Tonguese  to  dispose  of 
their  relations  and  friends  in  the  manner  detailed,  and 
were  quite  ready  to  make  a  desperate  stand  against  the 
enemy.  Mr.  Pritchard  thought  it  advisable  to  send  an 
official  letter  to  Maafu,  informing  him  that  Eitova  was 
about  to  be  restored  to  his  own  island,  and  reminding 
him  that,  in  accordance  with  the  document  signed,  an 
attack  on  the  life  and  property  of  any  Fijian  would  not 
be  permitted. 

All  being  ready  for  starting,  on  the  26th  of  October 
sails  were  set.  The  schooner  '  Paul  Jones '  had  to  go 
outside  the  reef  encircling  the  eastern  shores  of  Vanua 
Levu,  whilst  the  canoes,  not  drawing  so  much  water, 
were  able  to  avail  themselves  of  the  advantage  of  going 
inside.  Toward  sunset  of  the  following  day,  Naduri  was 
reached,  where  Bete,  the  chief  placed  n in  possession  of 
Eitova's  estates  by  Maafu,  resided.  To  prevent  future 
complications  it  was  necessary  to  come  to  some  arrange- 
ment with  him,  and  a  message  was  dispatched  to  request 
his  attendance  on  board.  Contrary  to  expectation,  he 
refused  to  attend,  but  was  ready  to  see  us  on  shore.  As 
this  would  have  been  a  concession  implying  weakness, 
a  message  was  sent  to  the  principal  landholders  (Mata 
ni  vanua)  that  they  might  come  to  receive  a  communica- 


CHIEF   BETE.  261 

tion  intended  for  the  whole  community.  This  measure 
had  the  desired  effect.  Finding  that  the  landholders 
were  going  on  board,  and  act  independently  of  him,  Bete 
deemed  it  prudent  to  change  his  mind,  and  he  soon  after 
stepped  on  board. 

Long  ere  this  the  sun  had  set,  but  the  moon  made 
every  object  distinctly  visible.  Bete  was  accompanied 
by  the  Tonguese  teacher  of  his  town,  and  his  principal 
spokesman,  who,  however,  hardly  uttered  a  word  during 
the  whole  interview.  Having  shaken  hands  all  round, 
the  chief  was  asked  to  sit  down  on  deck,  and  all  of  us 
did  the  same.  A  Fijian  chief  is  generally  a  fine  man 
physically,  considerably  taller  than  his  subjects,  and  pos- 
sessing that  commanding  air  which  shows  that  he  feels 
himself  a  chief.  Bete,  though  more  than  the  middle 
height,  had  nothing  imposing  in  his  bearing,  and  his 
face  portrayed  weakness  and  irresolution  of  character. 
Though  backed  by  the  whole  influence  of  Maafu,  he 
never  acquired  any  ascendency  over  the  people  he  was 
set  to  govern ;  they  openly  disobeyed  his  orders ;  and 
foreigners  found  it  useless  to  enter  into  any  arrangement 
with  him  about  the  revival  of  the  beche-de-mer  trade,  as 
he  had  not  power  sufficient  to  compel  the  necessary 
number  of  people  to  procure  a  shipload  full  of  that 
valuable  article.  When  younger,  he  had  been  guilty  of 
murdering  a  white  man  of  the  name  of  Cunningham, 
who  had  a  handsome  wife  from  Kotuma,  whom  his 
father  afterwards  added  to  his  harem.  Nor  had  vessels 
going  near  his  place  been  always  safe :  a  few  years  ago 
the  '  Paul  Jones '  and  another  little  schooner,  the  '  Gla- 
diator,' with  British  subjects  on  board,  were  fired  into, 


262  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

and  obliged  to  leave  so  inhospitable  a  neighbourhood 
with  all  possible  speed.  Ritova,  on  the  other  hand, 
is  the  exact  contrast  of  Bete.  He  is  a  tall,  well-made 
man,  with  intelligent  features ;  every  inch  a  chief.  Both 
his  mother  and  grandmother  were  the  great  Macu- 
ata  Queens,  which  gave  him  an  advantage  over  Bete, 
whose  mother  was  a  degree  below  them  in  birth.  All 
over  Fiji  the  rank  of  the  mother  is  of  importance  in 
regulating  that  of  her  offspring,  but  in  Macuata  a  still 
greater  stress  is  laid  upon  this  circumstance  than  else- 
where ;  hence,  after  Bete's  father  died,  the  office  of  Tui 
Macuata,  or  King  of  Macuata,  vacant  by  his  death,  was 
offered  by  the  landholders  to  Bitova  as  the  highest 
chief.  However,  he  waived  his  claims  in  favour  of  his 
son,  who  accordingly  was  duly  elected,  and  invested 
with  the  title.  After  Ritova  had  been  driven  away, 
Maafu  made  Bete  King  of  Macuata ;  hence  there  were 
two  claimants  to  that  dignity.  In  his  dealings  with  the 
white  men,  Ritova  always  behaved  creditably.  Traders 
left  large  stocks  of  goods  in  his  hand,  taking  no  other 
security  for  their  payment  than  his  reputation  for  ho- 
nesty, and  that  at  a  time  when  nearly  the  whole  of  Fiji 
was  addicted  to  cannibalism,  and  the  lives  of  foreigners 
trembled  in  the  balance.  In  the  complicated  process  of 
collecting  and  curing  beche-de-mer,  Ritova  displayed  as 
much  energy  in  making  his  people  work  as  he  did  ho- 
nesty in  the  pecuniary  transactions  which  it  involved. 
The  benefits  arising  from  the  beche-de-mer  trade  were 
felt  on  all  hands,  and  when,  with  Ritova's  removal,  this 
lucrative  traffic  came  to  an  end,  even  the  most  humble 
became  mindful  that  they  had  not  simply  experienced  a 


RITOVA.  263 

change  of  masters.  What  impressed  me  most  favour- 
ably with  Bitova  was,  that  I  once  caught  him,  with  his 
hands  at  his  back,  walking  up  and  down  in  silent  medi- 
tation behind  his  house,  and  on  inquiry  I  found  that 
such  was  his  usual  habit.  Amongst  Europeans  this  may 
be  nothing  uncommon,  but  amongst  Fijians,  or  Polyne- 
sians in  general,  it  is  worth  recording. 

Mr.  Pritchard  opened  proceedings  by  expressing  re- 
gret that  Bete  had  not  visited  Cakaudrove,  where  his 
opinion  might  have  influenced  the  result  arrived  at  re- 
garding Macuata  affairs.  He  then  told  him  that,  having 
refused  his  council,  it  had  been  settled  without  him  that 
Bitova  should  return  to  Nukubati,  and  enjoy  the  undis- 
puted rights  of  his  patrimonial  estates.  Bitova  was  now 
called,  and  though  the  two  chiefs  had  for  many  a  long 
year  been  neighbours,  separated  by  a  few  miles,  they 
now,  for  the  first  time  in  their  lives,  shook  hands  with 
each  other :  interested  parties  on  both  sides  had  alwrays 
kept  up  a  state  of  enmity  between  them.  Bete,  ad- 
dressed as  Tui  (King  of)  Macuata,  according  to  a  pre- 
vious arrangement  with  Bitova,  was  asked  to  express  his 
views  on  the  subject;  but  he  at  once  begged  that  Bitova 
might  take  precedence,  calling  him  the  "Vunivalu,'1 
the  highest  title  he  could  apply.  Bitova  expressed  his 
desire  to  live  in  peace  on  his  lands,  to  devote  his  ener- 
gies to  the  development  of  agriculture  and  trade ;  hoping, 
at  the  same  time,  that  all  old  feuds  might  be  consigned  to 
oblivion.  Bete  echoed  the  same  sentiments,  and  had  no 
objection  to  sign  a  document  to  that  effect,  in  which  the 
two  chiefs  pledged  themselves  not  to  attack  each  other, 
or  set  on  foot  any  measure  or  intrigue  that  might  be  at- 


264  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

tended  with  evil  consequences  to  either  party ;  to  refer 
all  matters  of  dispute  between  them  to  H.B.M.  Consul, 
to  disavow  all  allegiance  or  dependence  on  Maafu,  and 
to  suffer  punishment,  even  to  the  loss  of  their  chieftain- 
ship, in  case  of  non-compliance  with  any  article  of  the 
convention.  A  document  of  this  nature  was  accordingly 
drawn  up,  ably  translated  by  the  consular  interpreter, 
Mr.  Charles  Wise,  signed  by  the  two  chiefs,  and  wit- 
nessed by  Mr.  Pritchard,  the  Tonguese  teacher,  the  in- 
terpreter, and  myself. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  made  for  Nukubati.  This 
island,  scarcely  a  mile  in  circumference,  still  bore  ample 
traces  of  the  mode  of  warfare  carried  on  by  the  Ton- 
guese. All  the  houses  had  been  destroyed  by  fire,  with 
the  exception  of  one,  the  temporary  residence  of  Maafu 
during  the  fight.  The  trunks  of  most  of  the  cocoa-nut 
palms  were  charred  by  the  conflagration  that  had  con- 
sumed the  town;  nearly  all  the  other  fruit-trees  had 
been  cut  down,  and  hundreds  of  cocoa-nut  trunks  felled, 
to  make  a  high  stockade,  dividing  the  island  into  two  sec- 
tions, and  serving  as  a  breastwork,  impenetrable  to  bul- 
lets. The  wells  had  been  filled  up  with  rocks,  logs,  and 
rubbish ;  in  fine,  every  damage  that  could  possibly  be 
conceived  to  change  a  flourishing  town  and  a  fruitful 
island  into  a  wilderness,  had  been  done.  Quite  recently 
a  few  settlers  had  collected  on  Nukubati,  busily  engaged 
in  re-establishing  the  plantations  and  erecting  houses. 

Hardly  had  we  dropped  anchor  when  a  deputation 
from  the  island,  headed  by  the  local  chief,  waited  upon 
Ritova.  They  brought  with  them  presents  of  wild 
yams,  ready  cooked,  and  carried  on  a  tray  of  cocoa-nut 


A    TONGUESE   TEACHER.  265 

leaves.  The  local  chief,  a  man  somewhat  advanced  in 
years,  and  of  rather  venerable  aspect,  came  to  shake 
hands  with  Ritova ;  whilst  his  followers  kept  at  a  re- 
spectful distance,  and  none  of  them  ventured  to  stand 
upright  as  long  as  they  were  on  board.  This  old  man 
had  been  one  of  Ritova's  most  faithful  friends,  having 
shared  his  exile  for  some  time.  The  two  friends  were 
quite  overcome,  and  ready  to  cry.  None  of  them  could 
speak  for  some  minutes  ;  at  last  the  old  chief  said,  that 
he  was  sorry  to  have  to  come  empty-handed,  but  they 
were  so  poor  that  they  had  nothing  to  give.  Ritova 
replied,  that  to  be  able  to  look  once  more  upon  his 
dear  old  face  was  more  than  all  the  presents  he  could 
have  brought ;  they  would  apply  themselves  manfully 
to  rebuild  their  towns,  and  the  intercourse  with  the 
white  men  would  soon  place  them  in  possession  of 
plenty  of  goods.  They  then  went  on  shore,  where  the 
people  were  overjoyed  to  behold  their  great  chief 
again. 

The  Tonguese  teacher  of  Naduri  had  been  invited  by 
us  to  preach  that  day  at  Nukubati,  for  which  we  made 
him  a  handsome  present ;  and  all  hands  went  on  shore 
to  attend  Divine  service,  which,  in  the  absence  of  a  pro- 
per place  of  worship,  was  held  in  the  chief's  house. 
Instead  of  dwelling  on  the  importance  of  the  happy 
result  that  had  been  brought  about  by  the  arrangement 
just  concluded,  and  thanking  God  that  peace  had  been 
preserved  in  the  land,  the  teacher  preached  a  pointed 
sermon  at  Ritova,  about  the  evils  that  jealousy  had  pro- 
duced in  Tonga, — Tonga  is  always  put  first  by  these 
conceited  islanders, — Europe,  and  Fiji.  Seeing  several 


266  A   MISSION    TO    VITI. 

Roman  Catholics  present,  he  dwelt  on  the  errors  of  their 
dogmas,  and  abused  the  Virgin  and  the  Saints  in  un- 
measured terms.  It  would  have  been  hardly  possible 
to  preach  a  more  impracticable  sermon,  or  exhibit  worse 
taste  or  less  discretion.  Ritova,  on  pointing  out  the  site 
for  a  church,  begged  the  Consul  to  write  to  the  head- 
quarters of  the  missionaries  about  sending  him  Chris- 
tian teachers ;  but,  if  possible,  not  a  Tonguese  or  a  man 
of  extreme  sectarian  views,  who,  by  widening  the  breach 
between  Roman  Catholics  and  Protestants,  might  endan- 
ger the  peace,  whilst  a  man  of  moderate  views  would 
have  little  difficulty  in  making  the  whole  population 
of  one  way  of  thinking  on  religious  subjects.  He  after- 
wards recurred  to  this  topic  when  he  saw  me  again,  say- 
ing— though  of  course  using  different  language — that  the 
ethical  part  of  Christianity,  that  which  was  the  basis 
of  both  denominations,  had  a  deep  interest  to  him,  but 
that  he  attached  little  value  to  mere  dogmas.  This  was 
a  proof  to  me  that  this  man  had  thought  much  more 
deeply  on  religion  than  he  had  received  credit  for.  When 
lonely  pacing  up  and  down  the  trodden  path  behind  his 
hut,  he  had  evidently  sought  to  arrive  at  some  solution 
respecting  the  cbnflicting  views  rival  denominations  pre- 
sented to  him. 

One  of  Ritova's  large  canoes  had  come  along  with  us, 
but  all  the  others  had  not  made  their  appearance  the 
second  day  after  our  arrival.  Some  uneasiness  being  felt 
lest  the  Tonguese  had  captured  them,  heavy  laden  as  they 
were  with  passengers,  goods,  and  live  stock,  a  messenger 
was  dispatched  to  the  island  of  Kia,  who  returned  with 
two  other  canoes,  having  Ritova's  son  (Tui  Macuata)  on 


DEPARTURE   .FROM   NUKUBATI.  267 

board.  They  had  not  thought  it  possible  that  affairs 
with  Bete  could  be  arranged  amicably,  and  therefore  had 
not  come  direct.  When  Bitova's  son  soon  aftej:  stepped 
on  shore,  he  could  scarcely  believe  that  he  was  actually 
treading  on  his  native  isle.  "  Is  this  really  the  sand  of 
NukubatH"  he  exclaimed;  " really  my  home  1  Yes,  it 
is,  thanks  to  the  Consul."  His  companions  felt  equally 
grateful,  but  gratitude  in  the  Fijian  always  seeks  ex- 
pression in  gifts,  and  their  greatest  sorrow  was  that 
they  had  nothing  to  give ;  even  Ritova  was  uneasy  on 
this  point.  If  any  brother-chief  had  effected  his  resto- 
ration, custom  would  have  demanded  that  Eitova  should 
collect  all  the  goods  he  could  by  the  twelvemonth,  or 
later,  invite  his  allies  to  a  great  festival,  and  publicly, 
with  an  appropriate  speech,  hand  the  presents  over  to 
them.  The  Consul  explained  in  unmistakeable  language 
that  all  he  asked  in  return  for  what  had  been  done,  was 
the  resumption  of  Ritova's  former  activity  in  trading 
with  the  white  men,  and  the  same  friendly  treatment 
of  his  customers  he  had  invariably  bestowed  upon  them 
when  chief  ruler  of  Macuata. 

On  the  30th  of  October  a  schooner  arrived  from  Ova- 
lau  with  dispatches,  urgently  calling  Mr.  Prit chard's 
attention  to  another  part  of  the  group.  Going  on  shore 
to  wish  Ritova  good-bye,  we  met  deputations  delivering 
addresses  from  towns  which  had  heard  of  his  return, 
and  sent  whales'  teeth  and  other  acceptable  presents  in 
proof  of  their  devotion.  When  we  returned  on  board, 
the  large  triangular  sails  of  the  missing  canoes  appeared 
on  the  horizon :  all  Ritova's  little  property  was  safe. 
We  fired  a  salute  by  way  of  farewell,  and  hoisting  all 


268  A    MISSION   TO    VITL 

canvas,  soon  lost  sight  of  Nukubati  and  its  young  com- 
munity.* 

Macua,ta  now  began  to  revive.  Eitova  eagerly  set 
about  rebuilding  his  town  on  Nukubati,  and  white 
traders  again  nocked  to  the  coast,  as  in  days  of  yore. 
This  turn  of  affairs  was  far  from  pleasing  to  the  Ton- 
guese ;  they  were  indefatigable  in  promoting  discontent 
and  disturbance,  and  scarcely  had  Ritova's  town  been  re- 
built than  the  Tonguese  burned  it  down  again.  Bete, 
Maafu's  willing  tool,  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of 
playing  once  more  the  traitor.  Under  the  pretext  of 
making  a  durable  peace,  he  coaxed  Eitova  over  to 
Naduri,  where  he  had  arranged  with  a  party  of  moun- 
taineers to  rush  into  the  town  and  club  Eitova  and  his 
family.  Eitova  went  into  the  trap :  fortunately  his  son 
heard  of  the  scheme,  and  reported  it  to  his  father.  Ei- 
tova went  off  in  one  of  his  canoes,  professedly  to  drink 
kava,  in  reality  to  hold  a  council  with  his  old  men ; 
whilst  the  son  remained  on  shore  to  lull  suspicion. 
Bete,  in  order  to  bring  Eitova  on  shore,  invited  him  to 
a  bowl  of  kava ;  and  the  son,  seeing  the  moment  had 
arrived  when  all  were  to  be  massacred,  told  his  father 
their  imminent  peril.  They  were  all  in  Bete's  power  : 
what  were  they  to  do  ?  The  son  urged  the  necessity  of 
assuming  the  offensive,  and  killing  Bete  without  delay  ; 
Eitova  hesitated,  but  the  young  fellow  went  ashore,  met 
Bete  just  in  front  of  his  house,  charged  him  with  the 

*  It  is  only  up  to  this  date  that  I  can  speak  from  personal  experience 
of  the  events  that  occurred  ;  what  follows  has  been  derived  from  a  com- 
munication in  the  '  Athenaeum,'  from  private  letters,  and  from  Commodore 
Seymour's  and  other  dispatches  published  in  the  '  Fijian  Blue-book.' 


BETE'S  DEATH.  269 

diabolical  plot  he  had  laid,  and  that  had  his  father  not 
followed  the  Consul's  advice  to  act  honestly,  he  would 
never  have  been  in  his  power.  "  I  have  three  balls  in 
my  musket  for  you,  Bete ;"  he  said,  "  you,  who  want  to 
kill  my  father,  his  son,  and  all  his  people,  in  cold  blood." 
With  these  words  he  fired,  and  two  balls  lodged  in 
Bete's  body ;  he  died  instantly.  A  great  uproar  followed ; 
some  of  Ritova's  friends,  and  they  were  numerous,  voted 
for  killing  all  Bete's  followers  and  razing  the  town. 
Ritova,  who  had  all  the  while  been  on  board  his  canoes, 
rushed  on  shore,  quelled  the  excitement  by  his  presence, 
and  harangued  the  crowd.  "  People  of  Naduri,"  he  said, 
"you  who  deserted  me,  your  proper  chief,  when  the 
Tonguese  drove  him  from  the  land  of  his  forefathers, 
you  may  all  live  !  Were  it  not  for  my  solemn  promises 
to  the  British  Consul,  you  would  all  die  this  day  with 
the  man  you  followed ;  he  has  told  me  to  spare  my  ene- 
mies, therefore,  be  pardoned ;  keep  quiet ;  I  will  send 
for  Christian  teachers — not  Tonguese — European  or 
Fijian,  and  we  will  all  endeavour  to  live  in  peace,  and 
cultivate  agriculture  and  trade."  * 

Everything  was  going  on  quietly  again  when  Maafu 
dispatched  his  lieutenant,  Wai-ni-golo,  to  Macuata,  and 
troubles  at  once  recommenced.  The  very  excellence  of 
this,  the  finest  district  in  Fiji,  makes  these  artful  and 
bold  Tonguese  crave  after  it  so  much.  Fortunately, 
about  the  middle  of  July,  1861,  Commodore  Seymour, 
in  H.B.M.S.  Pelorus,  arrived  at  Ovalau,  and  extracts 
from  his  dispatch  shall  carry  on  the  story. 

*  '  Athenaeum,'  No.  1791,  p.  261. — Also  private  letters  from  residents 
in  Fiji. 


270  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

"  Her  Majesty's  ship,  under  my  command,  sailed  from  Coro- 
mandel  harbour,  east  coast  of  New  Zealand,  on  the  8th  July,  and 
arrived  at  Levuka  harbour,  island  of  Ovalau,  on  the  15th,  after 
a  favourable  passage  made  under  sail.  Having  been  informed 
by  Mr.  Pritchard  that  the  trade  in  beche-de-mer  on  the  north- 
west coast  of  Vanua  Levu  was  entirely  stopped  in  consequence 
of  a  war  which  was  being  carried  on  there  between  two  rival 
chiefs,  one  of  whom  was  supported  by  a  body  of  Tongans, 
whose  usual  residence  is  on  Lakeba,  one  of  the  windward  is- 
lands, I  decided  on  endeavouring  to  put  a  stop  to  a  state  of 
affairs  so  prejudicial  to  British  interests ;  and  in  order  that  my 
measures  should  be  backed  by  the  highest  native  authority  in 
Fiji,  I  requested  Mr.  Pritchard  to  propose  to  Cakobau  and 
Maafu  to  accompany  me  to  the  Macuata  district  in  the  ' Pelorus.' 
This,  after  a  little  diplomatic  shuffling,  they  consented  to  do; 
and  having  received  them,  Mr.  Pritchard,  and  the  consular  in- 
terpreter, on  board,  we  left  Levuka  on  the  morning  of  the  18th, 
entering  the  great  reef  which  encircles  Vanua  Levu  by  a  pass 
a  little  to  the  northward  of  the  Nadi  passage,  after  which  our 
course  lay  through  a  very  intricate  channel  formed  by  sunken 
reefs  and  patches,  of  which  no  regular  survey  exists,  but 
through  which  we  were  piloted  in  the  most  able  manner  by  one 
of  the  English  residents  afc  Ovalau  (Christopher  Carr),  the 
owner  of  a  small  beche-de-mer  trader.  Under  his  direction  we 
reached  anchorage  off  Levuta,  about  twenty  miles  from  our  desti- 
nation, Macuata,  that  evening;  and  the  following  morning,  having 
weighed  as  soon  as  the  sun  was  sufficiently  high  to  enable  us 
to  distinguish  the  shoals,  we  anchored  in  Naduri  Harbour, 
Macuata  Bay,  about  1500  yards  from  where  some  houses  were 
visible  on  the  beach. 

ff  On  sending  on  shore  to  ascertain  the  state  of  affairs,  we 
found,  as  I  had  anticipated  would  be  the  case,  that  the  com- 
bined force  of  the  Tongans  and  Fijians  had  driven  their  oppo- 
nents off  the  mainland,  and  that  the  latter  had  taken  refuge  on 
Kia  Island,  about  ten  miles  from  our  anchorage.  Since  their 
expulsion  their  enemies  had  committed  great  havoc  amongst 
their  plantations,  had  destroyed  nearly  all  the  large  canoes, 


COMMODORE    SEYMOUR'S   VISIT.  271 

for  which  this  district  was  formerly  famous,  and  almost  daily 
put  one  or  more  persons  to  death,  whose  only  crime  was  being 
related  to  the  vanquished  party.  In  these  outrages  the  Ton- 
gans  were  the  most  prominent  actors ;  and  I  may  here  state  my 
opinion,  that  in  the  event  of  her  Majesty 's  Government  accept- 
ing the  Fijis,  it  will  be  necessary,  from  the  very  first,  to  put  a 
stop  to  the  raids  which  the  Tongans  have  for  the  last  five  years 
been  in  the  habit  of  carrying  into  the  various  islands  lying  to 
the  west  of  Lakeba. 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  20th  I  sent  over  to  the  island  of  Kia 
for  Ritova,  the  chief  of  the  tribe  which  had  been  driven  out  of 
Macuata,  and  in  the  afternoon  he  came  on  board  in  a  cutter  of 
the  '  Pelorus/  followed  by  fifteen  canoes  filled  with  his  retainers. 
After  he  had  had  an  hour's  conversation  withCakobau  and  Maafu, 
we  made  a  preconcerted  signal,  on  seeing  which  Wai-ni-golo, 
Maafu' s  lieutenant,  and  two  Fijian  chiefs,  came  on  board ;  and 
after  they  and  their  opponents  had  discussed  matters  for  an 
hour,  I  told  them,  through  the  consular  interpreter,  that  we 
had  no  wish  to  injure  or  interfere  with  either  the  Fijians  or 
Tongans  in  any  way ;  but  that,  owing  to  the  senseless  quarrels 
of  the  former,  fomented  by  the  latter,  the  interests  of  the  white 
traders  in  Fiji  were  compromised,  and  that  I  was  determined  on 
putting  a  stop  to  a  state  of  affairs  which  was  equally  prejudicial 
to  their  own  and  to  British  interests.  I  should  therefore  leave 
them  to  settle,  by  what  means  they  could  arrange,  matters 
amongst  themselves,  and  any  advice  I  could  give  them  was  at 
their  service.  My  observations  were  listened  to  with  attention 
by  both  parties  of  Fijians,  but  were  evidently  unsatisfactory  to 
the  Tongan  chief,  who,  throughout  the  entire  business,  was  less 
manageable  than  either  his  associates  or  his  enemies. 

"  The  discussion,  which  terminated  at  sunset,  was  renewed 
the  next  day,  when  the  following  terms  were  agreed  to  by  the 
chiefs  of  Fiji  and  Tonga  present,  being  those  which,  with  Mr. 
Pritchard's  concurrence,  I  had  decided  from  the  first  on  seeing 
carried  out : — 

' '  Between  Rifova  and  Bonaveidogo,  chiefs  of  Fiji. 
"  1st.  To  forget  all  past  grievances  and  causes  of  quarrel. 


272  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

"  2nd.  To  commence  from  this  date  an  era  of  peace  and  friendship. 

"  3rd.  To  receive  and  protect  the  teachers  of  the  Christian  religion. 

"  4th.  To  encourage  trade  and  commerce  throughout  the  Macuata  ter- 
ritories, and  to  protect  all  legitimate  traders  and  settlers. 

"  5th.  To  dissolve  all  political  connection,  and  to  confine  themselves  to 
legitimate  and  friendly  intercourse  with  the  Tongans. 

"  Between  Ritova  and  other  chiefs  of  Fiji  and  Maafu,  chief  of 

Tonga. 

"  1st.  That  Wai-ni-golo  shall,  within  fourteen  hours,  retire  for  ever 
from  the  Macuata  territories,  and  shall  not  again  appear  within  the  line 
of  country  from  Nacewa  Bay  on  the  one  side,  to  Bua  Bay  on  the  other. 

"  2nd.  That  no  Tongans  shall  visit  the  Macuata  territories,  or  appear 
within  the  above-named  limits,  for  twelve  months  from  this  date. 

"  3rd.  That  Tongans  in  the  service  of  the  Wesleyan  or  other  missions 
are  exempted  from  the  above  restrictions. 

"  4th.  That  if  any  of  the  above  articles  are  infringed,  Maafu  agrees 
that  Wai-ni-golo  shall  be  sent  from  Fiji  to  his  native  country. 

"  The  three  last  articles  were  inserted  in  the  treaty  at  my  re- 
commendation, as  I  foresaw  that  if  the  Tongans  were  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  Vanua  Levu,  any  good  effect  which  might 
otherwise  result  from  our  visit  would  be  completely  done  away 
with ;  and  in  compliance  with  them  at  dawn  on  the  morning  of 
the  22nd  of  July,  the  two  large  double  canoes,  in  which  Wai- 
ni-golo  and  his  followers  had  come  to  Macuata,  were  launched, 
and  by  eight  A.M.  were  under  weigh,  with  a  strong  and  fair 
wind,  for  Lakeba ;  a  more  picturesque  scene  than  their  depar- 
ture, as  they  crossed  the  '  Pelorus's '  bow,  beating  their  drums 
and  cheering  most  lustily,  I  have  seldom  witnessed.  In  the 
course  of  the  same  day  Cakobau  and  Maafu  quitted  the  ship, 
and  sailed  for  Levuka  in  Cakobau's  large  canoe,  and  in  the 
afternoon  I  landed  at  Macuata,  accompanied  by  Ritova,  and 
saw  him  and  many  of  his  people  re-established  in  their  former 
habitations. 

"  Having  thus  seen  tranquillity  re-established  in  Vanua  Levu, 
I  quitted  Macuata  on  the  morning  of  the  23rd  July,  having 
Kitova  and  two  of  his  retainers  on  board,  they  being  desirous 
of  seeing  the  working  of  the  engines ;  and  on  getting  clear  of 
the  Mali  passage  we  discharged  them  and  Mr.  Pritchard  to  the 


TERMINATION    OF   THE   TONGUESE   WARS.  273 

latter*  s  schooner,  after  which  we  made  sail,  by  noon  were  clear 
of  Kia  Island,  and  steering  a  course  for  Aneiteum."  * 

Commodore  Seymour's  visit  thus  proved  of  material 
benefit  to  Fiji,  and  was  felt  as  such  on  all  hands.  "  I 
am  directed  by  Earl  Russell  to  request,"  writes  Mr. 
James  Murray,  of  the  Foreign  Office,  to  Sir  T.  Rogers, 
Bart.,  December  31,  1861,  "that  you  will  state  to  the 
Duke  of  Newcastle,  that  his  Lordship  has  learnt  with 
satisfaction  the  steps  taken  by  Commodore  Seymour  for 
terminating  the  wars  which  have  been  raging  between 
the  Tongans  and  Fijians." 

*  It  will  be  seen  how  closely  this  statement  agrees  with  the  more  con- 
densed account  in  the  '  Athenaeum '  of  February  22,  1862. 


274 


CHAPTEE  XVI. 

GENERAL    REMARKS    ON   THE   ASPECT,   CLIMATE,    SOIL,   AND  VEGETATION    OF 

FIJI. COLONIAL    PRODUCE. STAPLE     FOOD. EDIBLE     ROOTS. KITCHEN 

VEGETABLES. — EDIBLE    FRUITS. — NATIONAL    BEVERAGES. — KAVA. 

VITI,  or  Fiji,  is  an  archipelago  in  the  South  Pacific 
Ocean,  midway  between  the  Tongan  islands  and  the 
French  colony  of  New  Caledonia,  having,  according  to 
Dr.  Petermann's  recent  calculations,  a  superficial  area 
equal  to  that  of  Wales,  or  eight  times  that  of  the  Ionian 
Islands.  The  exact  number  of  islands  and  islets  com- 
prising it  is  merely  approximately  known,  only  a  partial 
hydrographical  survey  of  the  whole  group  having  as  yet 
been  made ;  230  would  probably  be  rather  below  than 
above  the  number.  Viti  Levu,  Kadavu,  Vanua  Levu, 
and  Taviuni,  are  of  primary,  Kabe,  Koro,  Gau,  and  Ova- 
lau,  of  secondary,  magnitude.  Situated  between  lati- 
tudes 19°  47'  S.  and  15°  47'  S.,  and  longitudes  180°  8'  W. 
and  176°50/E.,  the  climate  is  tropical,  but  the  heat 
is  moderated,  in  the  winter  season  by  the  south-east,  in 
the  summer  by  the  north-east  trade-wind.  62°  Fahr.  is 
the  lowest  temperature  observed  in  Lakeba  by  Mr.  Wil- 
liams, in  Kadavu  by  Mr.  Royce ;  but,  though  the  mean 
temperature  of  the  whole  group  may  be  stated  to  be 
80°  Fahr.,  the  thermometer  has  been  known  to  rise  to 


CLIMATE,    SOIL,    AND   FLORA.  275 

121°  Fahr.  The  country  is  remarkably  free  from  fever, 
— that  curse  of  the  Samoan  group, — and  the  only  dis- 
ease Fijiansand  Europeans  have  reason  to  fear  is  dysen- 
tery, unknown,  if  a  current  belief  may  be  relied  upon, 
before  the  visits  of  foreigners  to  these  shores,  and  hence 
often  termed  "  the  white  man's  disease  "  by  the  natives. 

The  time  from  October  till  April  is  the  hottest,  that 
extending  over  the  other  months  the  coolest,  part  of  the 
year.  It  is  during  the  former  when  the  most  rain  falls, 
but  the  dry  and  rainy  seasons  do  not  strictly  correspond 
with  this  division,  nor  is  the  difference  between  the  wet 
and  dry  very  marked.  There  are  occasional  showers 
during  the  so-called  dry  season  in  all  parts  of  the  group, 
and  in  localities  like  the  Straits  of  Somosomo  they  may 
even  be  termed  frequent.  The  fine  weather  is  expected 
to  set  in  about  May.  June,  July,  August,  September, 
and  October,  are  generally  dry,  and  from  their  low  tem- 
perature looked  forward  to  by  European  settlers.  How 
many  inches  of  rain  annually  fall  has  not  been  ascer- 
tained ;  nor  would  a  gauge  kept  in  a  single  locality  only 
give  a  fair  approximate  result  of  the  average  amount, 
since  the  difference  of  the  meteorological  conditions  ex 
isting  between  the  leeward  and  windward  islands,  the 
lee  side  and  the  weather  side  of  the  larger  islands,  are 
too  great.* 

Speaking  generally,  the  Vitian  islands  may  be  said  to 

*  A  gauge,  kept  by  tlie  Rev.  Mr.  Whitley  (probably  at  Levuka,  B.S.), 
showed  that  ninety  inches  of  rain  had  fallen  in  six  months,  and  four  in 
the  night  of  February  12th,  1860.  This  statement  I  find  in  an  obscure 
publication,  the  '  Primitive  Methodist  Juvenile  Magazine,'  London,  1862, 
rol.  xi.  p.  50.  Not  having  seen  it  confirmed,  it  may  possibly  be  incorrect, 
like  several  others  in  the  article  from  which  it  is  taken. 

T  2 


276  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

owe  their  origin  to  volcanic  upheavings  and  the  busy 
operation  of  corals.  There  are  at  present  no  active  vol- 
canos,  but  several  of  the  highest  mountains,  for  in- 
stance, Buke  Levu,  in  Kadavu,  and  the  summit  of  Tavi- 
uni,  must  in  times  gone  by  have  been  formidable  craters. 
Hot  springs  are  met  with  in  different  parts,  earthquakes 
are  occasionally  experienced,  and  between  Fiji  and 
Tonga  a  whole  island  has  of  late  years  been  lifted  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean,  whilst  masses  of  pumice-stone 
are  drifted  on  the  southern  shores  of  Kadavu  and 
Viti  Levu ;  all  showing  that  Fiji,  though  not  the  focus 
of  volcanic  action,  is  not  secure  against  plutonic  dis- 
turbances and  their  effects.  The  deltas  and  alluvial  de- 
posits of  the  great  rivers  excepted,  there  is  little  level 
land.  Most  of  the  ground  is  undulated,  all  the  larger 
islands  are  hilly,  and  the  largest  have  peaks  4000  feet 
high ;  Voma,  in  Viti  Levu,  and  Buke  Levu,  in  Kadavu 
(both  of  whichwere  ascended  by  me),  being  the  most 
elevated.  The  soil  consists  in  many  parts  of  a  dark-red 
or  yellowish  clay,  or  decomposed  volcanic  rock,  which 
soon  becomes  dry,  but  being  plentifully  supplied  with 
water,  proves  very  productive.  There  is  hardly  a  rod  of 
land  that  might  not  be  converted  into  pasture  or  be 
cultivated.  Almost  at  every  step  one  discovers  that 
most  of  the  land  has  at  one  time  or  other  produced 
some  crop.  Though  on  the  weather  side  dense  and  ex- 
tensive woods  exist,  few  of  them  can  be  regarded  as 
virgin  forests,  most  having  re-established  themselves 
after  the  plantations  once  occupying  their  site  had  been 
abandoned.  Kadavu  does  not  appear  to  have  an  acre  of 
virgin  forest  beyond  what  is  clustered  around  the  very 


CLIMATE,    SOIL,    AND   FLOKA.  277 

summit  of  Buke  Levu.  The  re-establishment  of  the 
woods  on  ground  at  one  time  under  cultivation  can 
scarcely  be  adduced  as  a  proof  that  the  population  has 
seriously  diminished,  but  rather  that  the  Fijians  have 
for  ages  followed  the  same  system  of  agriculture  as  they 
do  at  present,  that  of  constantly  selecting  new  spots  for 
their  crops  when  the  old  ones,  which  their  ignorance 
prevents  them  from  fertilizing  by  the  introduction  of 
manure,  become  exhausted.  The  displaced  vegetation 
quickly  resumes  its  former  sway,  until  perhaps,  after  the 
lapse  of  years,  it  has  once  more  to  make  room  for  cul- 
tivated plants. 

The  aspect  of  the  weather  side  of  the  islands  is  essen- 
tially different  from  that  of  the  lee  side.  The  former 
teems  with  a  dense  mass  of  vegetation,  huge  trees,  in-  -/ 
numerable  creepers,  and  epiphytical  plants.  Hardly 
ever  a  break  occurs  in  the  green  mantle  spread  over  hill 
and  dale,  except  where  effected  by  artificial  means,  r/ 
Kain  and  moisture  are  plentiful,  adding  ever  fresh  s* 
vigour  to,  and  keeping  up  the  exuberant  growth  of, 
trees,  shrubs,  and  herbs.  Far  different  is  the  aspect  of 
the  lee  side.  Instead  of  the  dense  jungle,  interlaced 
with  creepers  and  loaded  with  epiphytes,  a  fine  grassy 
country,  here  and  there  dotted  with  screw-pines,  pre- 
sents itself.  The  northern  shores  of  Viti  Levu  and 
Vanua  Levu  bear  this  character  in  an  eminent  degree,  and 
their  very  aspect  is  proof  that  rain  falls  in  only  limited 
quantity ;  the  high  ridge  of  mountains,  which  form,  as  it 
were,  the  backbone  of  the  two  largest  islands,  intercept- 
ing many  showers,  but  sending  down  perpetual  streams  to 
fertilize  the  low  lands  of  the  coast.  The  lee  side  would 


278  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

therefore  more  readily  recommend  itself  to  the  white 
settler,  as  it  requires  hardly  any  clearing,  and  would  be 
immediately  available  for  cattle-breeding  and  cotton- 
growing. 

The  coast-line  of  most  of  the  islands  is  enriched  by 
a  dense,  more  or  less  broken,  belt  of  cocoa-nut  palms. 
White  beaches,  formed  of  decomposed  corals,  may  be 
traced  for  miles ;  whilst  good  soil  in  many  instances  ex- 
tends quite  to  the  water's  edge,  and  trees,  not  numbering 
amongst  the  strictly  littoral  vegetation,  overhang  the 
sea.  Mangrove  swamps  are  limited,  and  chiefly  confined 
to  the  mouths  of  the  rivers;  hence  the  almost  total 
freedom  of  the  country  from  malignant  fevers.  In  the 
windward  islands,  Lakeba  and  its  dependencies,  the 
wreeping  iron-wood  (Casuarina  equisetifolia,  Forst.),  in- 
termingled with  screw-pines  (Pandanus  odoratissimus, 
Linn.),  abounds,  and  considerable  tracts  of  country  are 
covered  with  the  common  brake  and  other  hard-leaved 
ferns:  they  prefer  an  open  country,  and  have  taken 
possession  where  little  else  will  grow.  Wherever  these 
forms  of  vegetation  occur  on  the  weather  side  of  the 
group,  the  soil  may  be  expected  to  be  rather  poor.  It 
would,  however,  be  erroneous  to  apply  the  same  rule  to 
the  leeward  side,  where  they  are  also  tolerably  abun- 
dant, not  because  the  soil  is  too  poor  to  support  a  dense 
herbaceous  or  woody  vegetation,  but  because  the  air  is 
destitute  of  that  excessive  moisture,  and  the  country 
less  visited  by  numerous  showers  of  rain,  promoting  the 
luxuriant  growth  on  the  weather  side. 

The  general  physiognomy  of  the  flora  is  decidedly 
tropical ;  tree-ferns,  branching  grasses,  six  or  seven  dif- 


CLIMATE,    SOIL,   AND   FLORA.  279 

ferent  kind  of  palms,  Scitamineous  plants,  epiphytical 
orchids,    ferns,  and  pepperworts,   fully  accounting  for 
this  fact.     Whole  districts,  however,  possess  a  strictly 
South  Australian  look,  owing  to  the  presence  of  two 
phyllodineous   Acacias   (A.   laurifolia^   Willd.,    and  A. 
Richei,  A.  Gray),  two  Casuarinas,  several  kinds  of  Me- 
trosideros,  with    either   scarlet   or   yellow   blossoms,   a 
climbing  Eubus,  Smilax,  and  Geitonoplesiwn  *  and  Fla- 
gellaria,  as  well  as  the  peculiar  habit  of  various  other 
species.     There  is  little  change  in  the  nature  of  the 
vegetation  until  one  reaches  about  2000  feet  elevation, 
where  the  plants  peculiar  to  the  coast  region  are  re- 
placed by  mountain  forms.     Hollies,  Myrtaceous,  Mela- 
stomaceous,  and  Laurinaceous  trees,  Epacridaceous  and 
Vacciniaceous  bushes,  forming  the  bulk ;  scarlet  orchids, 
astelias,  delicate  ferns,  mosses,  and   lichens,    crowding 
their  branches.     None  of  the  explored  peaks  have  as 
yet  disclosed  any  genuine  alpine  vegetation, — perennial 
herbs  forming  csespitose  masses  and  prostrate  shrubs,  ge- 
nerally bearing  large  and  gay-coloured  flowers.    Should 
it  ever  be  met  wdth,  there  would  indeed  be  a  rich  bota- 
nical harvest. 

Nature  has  been  truly  bountiful  in  distributing  her 
vegetable  treasures  to  these  islands ;  but  perhaps  the 
best  proof  of  their  extreme  fertility  and  matchless  re- 
sources is  less  furnished  by  the  fact  that  a  country  with 
a  population  of  at  least  200,000  souls,  constantly  sup- 
plying provisions  to  foreign  vessels,  having  an  immense 

*  The  natives  term  this  plant  Wa  Dakua,  from  Wa,  creeper,  and 
Dakua,  Kowrie  pine,  because  its  leaves  closely  resemble  those  of  the 
Fijian  Dammar  a. 


280  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

number  of  cocoa-nuts  withdrawn  from  consumption  by 
a  primitive  and  wasteful  method  of  making  oil  for  ex- 
portation, and  cultivating,  comparatively  speaking,  only 
a  few  acres  of  ground,  than  by  the  almost  endless  series 
of  vegetable  productions — an  enumeration  of  which 
forms  the  subject  of  the  succeeding  pages. 

Colonial  produce,  properly  so  called,  such  as  sugar, 
coffee,  tamarinds,  and  tobacco,  may  be  expected  from 
Fiji  in  considerable  quantities,  as  soon  as  Europeans 
shall  have  devoted  their  attention  to  the  subject ;  since 
the  plants  yielding  them,  long  ago  introduced,  flourish 
so  well,  that  a  j  udicious  outlay  of  capital  might  prove  a 
profitable  investment.  The  sugar-cane  (Saccharum  offi- 
cinarum.  Linn.),  called  Dovu  in  Fijian,  grows,  as  it  were, 
wild  in  various  parts  of  the  group,  and  a  purple  variety, 
attaining  sixteen  feet  high  and  a  corresponding  thick- 
ness, is  cultivated  to  some  extent.  No  foreigners  have 
as  yet  set  up  mills,  nor  are  the  natives  at  present  ac- 
quainted with  the  process  of  making  sugar  ;  they  merely 
chew  the  cane,  and  employ  the  juice  for  sweetening 
their  puddings.  In  the  greater  part  of  the  group  the 
leaves  are  used  for  thatching  the  roofs  of  houses ;  it  is 
only  in  Lakeba  and  others  of  the  eastern  islands  where 
those  of  a  screw-pine  (Pandanus  odoratissimus.  Linn.) 
are  preferred,  whilst  those  of  the  Boreti  (Acrosticlmm 
aureum,  Linn.),  a  common  seaside  fern,  are  still  less 
frequently  used,  though  in  the  central  islands  they,  in 
common  with  those  of  the  Makita  (Parinarium  laurinum, 
A.  Gray)>  supply  the  chief  materials  for  covering  the 
side  walls  of  houses,  churches,  and  temples.  Coffee 
(Coffea  arabica,  Linn.)  will  one  day  rank  amongst  the 


COLONIAL   PRODUCE.  281 

staple  products  of  the  country;  the  mountain  slopes  of 
the  larger  islands,  especially  those  of  Viti  Levu,  Vanua 
Levu,  and  Kadavu,  and,  above  all,  those  of  the  valley  of 
Namosi,  seeming  well  adapted  for  its  growth.  Several 
old  coffee-trees  are  to  be  found  in  the  Rewa  district, 
showing  the  plant  to  be  not  of  recent  introduction. 
Dr.  Brower,  American  Consul,  has  established  a  plan- 
tation on  his  estate  at  Wakaya,  which  gives  fair  pro- 
mise ;  and  Mr.  Binner,  of  Levuka,  has  in  his  garden  a 
number  of  thriving  seedlings.  The  tamarind  (Tamarin- 
dus  Indica,  Linn.)  was  introduced  about  eighteen  years 
ago ;  and  there  is  a  fine  tree,  thirty  feet  high,  and  of 
corresponding  dimensions,  on  the  Somosomo  estate  of 
Captain  Wilson  and  M.  Joubert,  of  Sydney. 

Tobacco  (Nicotiana  Tabacum,  Linn.),  a  pink-flowering 
kind,  is  grown  about  towns  and  villages  in  patches, 
never  exceeding  a  few  rods  in  extent,  but  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  keep  the  bulk  of  the  population  sup- 
plied. Both  men  and  women  use  it  for  smoking  only, 
either  out  of  pipes  or  made  into  cigarettes  with  dry 
banana-leaves";  the  filthy  habit  of  chewing  or  taking 
snuff  does  not  seem  to  be  practised  by  them,  though, 
had  they  been  so  inclined,  they  might  have  learned  it 
from  the  lower  class  of  white  settlers.  Being  unac- 
quainted with  the  process  of  curing  the  leaf  successfully, 
the  natives  greatly  prefer  our  tobacco  to  their  own,  and 
are  thankful  for  the  gift  of  a  piece,  however  small,  but 
rather  loth  to  regard  it  in  the  light  of  payment  for 
goods  or  services  rendered,  preferring  any  other  article 
of  barter,  inferior  though  it  may  be  in  value  to  the  to- 
bacco offered. 


282  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

Oil  and  vegetable  fat  next  claim  our  attention.  The 
most  valuable  oil  produced  in  Fiji  is  that  extracted  from 
the  seeds  of  the  Dilo  (Calopliyllum  inophyllum,  Linn.), 
the  Tamanu  of  Eastern  Polynesia,  and  the  Cashumpa  of 
India.  It  is  the  bitter  oil,  or  woondel,  of  Indian  com- 
merce. The  natives  use  it  for  polishing  arms  and  greas- 
ing their  bodies  when  cocoa-nut  oil  is  not  at  hand.  But 
the  great  reputation  this  oil  enjoys  throughout  Poly- 
nesia and  the  East  Indies  rests  upon  its  medicinal  pro- 
perties, as  a  liniment  in  rheumatism,  pains  in  the  joints, 
and  bruises.  The  efficacy  in  that  respect  can  hardly  be 
exaggerated,  and  recommends  it  to  the  attention  of  Eu- 
ropean practitioners.  The  oil  is  kept  by  the  natives  in 
gourd  flasks,  and,  there  being  only  a  limited  quantity 
made,  I  was  charged  about  sixpence  per  pint  for  it, 
paid  in  calico  and  cutlery.  The  tree  yielding  it  is  one 
of  the  most  common  littoral  plants  in  the  group,  and  its 
round  fruits,  mixed  with  the  square-shaped  ones  of  Bar- 
ringtonia  speciosa,  the  pine-cone-like  ones  of  the  sago- 
palm,  and  the  flat  seeds  of  the  Walai  (Entada  scandens, 
Bth.),  are  found  densely  covering  the  sandy  beaches,  a 
play  of  the  tides.  Dilo  oil  never  congeals  in  the  lowest 
temperature  of  the  Fijis,  as  cocoa-nut  oil  often  does 
during  the  cool  season.  It  is  of  a  greenish  tinge,  and 
a  very  little  of  it  will  impart  its  hue  to  a  whole  cask 
of  cocoa-nut  oil.  Its  commercial  value  is  only  partially 
known  in  the  Fijis,  and  was  found  out  accidentally. 
Amongst  the  contributions  in  cocoa-nut  oil  which  the 
natives  furnish  towards  the  support  of  the  Wesleyan 
missions,  some  Dilo  oil  had  been  poured,  which,  on  ar- 
riving at  Sydney,  was  rejected  by  the  broker  who  pur- 


OILS   AND   VEGETABLE   FAT.  283 

chased  the  other  oil,  on  account  of  its  greenish  tinge 
and  strange  appearance.  On  being  shown  to  others,  a 
chemist,  recognizing  it  as  the  bitter  oil  of  India,  pur- 
chased it  at  the  rate  of  £60  per  tun;  and  he  must  have 
made  a  good  profit  on  it,  as  the  article  fetches  as  much 
as  £90  per  tun.  The  Dilo  grows  to  the  height  of  sixty 
feet,  and  the  stem  is  from  three  to  four  feet  in  diameter, 
generally  thickly  crowded  with  epiphytal  orchids  and 
ferns.  The  dark  oblong  leaves  form  a  magnificent  crown, 
producing  a  dense  shade  ;  and  wrhen,  during  the  flower- 
ing season,  they  are  interspersed  with  numerous  white 
flowers,  the  aspect  of  the  whole  tree  is  truly  noble. 
The  exudation  from  the  stem  is,  according  to  Bennett, 
the  Tacamahaca  resin  of  commerce,  used  by  Tahitians 
as  a  scent.  Carpenters  and  cabinet-makers  value  the 
wood  on  account  of  its  beautiful  grain,  hardness,  and 
red  tinge.  Boats  and  canoes  are  built  of  it,  and  it  is 
named  with  the  Yes.(^22^A-  Gray)  as  the 


best  timber  produced  in  Fiji.  In  order  to  extract  the 
oil,  the  round  fruit  is  allowed  to  drop  and  the  outer 
fleshy  covering  rot  on  the  ground.  The  remaining  por- 
tion, consisting  of  a  shell  somewhat  of  the  consistency 
of  that  of  a  hen's  egg,  and  enclosing  the  kernel,  is  baked 
on  hot  stones,  in  the  same  way  that  Polynesian  vegeta- 
bles and  meat  are.  The  shell  is  then  broken,  and  the 
kernel  pounded  between  stones.  If  the  quantity  be 
small,  the  macerated  mass  is  placed  in  the  fibres  of  the 
Vau  (Paritium  tiliaceum  and  tricuspis\  and  forced  by 
the  hand  to  yield  up  its  oily  contents  ;  if  large,  a  rude 
level  press  is  constructed  by  placing  a  boom  horizontally 
between  two  cocoa-nut  trees,  and  appending  to  them  per- 


284  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

pendicularly  the  fibres  of  the  Vau.  After  the  macerated 
kernels  have  been  placed  in  the  midst,  a  pole  made  fast 
to  the  lower  end  of  the  fibres,  and  two  men  taking  hold 
of  its  end,  twist  the  contrivance  round  and  round  till 
the  oil,  collecting  into  a  wooden  bowl  standing  under- 
neath, has  been  extracted.  Of  course,  the  pressure  thus 
brought  to  bear  upon  the  pounded  kernels  is  not  suffi- 
ciently great  to  allow  every  particle  of  oil  to  escape,  and 
with  the  proper  machinery  the  waste  would  amount  to 
little  indeed. 

The  candle-nut  (Aleurites  triloba,  Forst.),  termed 
"  Lauci,"  "  Sikeci,"  and  "  Tuitui,"  in  the  various  dialects 
of  Fiji,  contains  a  great  deal  of  oil,  of  which,  however, 
the  natives  make  only  a  limited  use  for  polishing,  though 
in  other  parts  of  Polynesia  lamps  are  fed  with  it,  and  in 
the  Hawaiian  islands  the  entire  kernels  are  strung  on  a 
stick  and  lighted  as  candles.  The  fruit  is  better  known 
as  a  dye,  and  plays  an  important  part  at  the  birth  of 
a  child;  for  no  sooner  is  a  baby  born  than  the  mid- 
wife rushes  to  the  Lauci  to  gather  a  fruit  fresh  from  the 
tree,  which  she  places  in  the  mouth  of  the  interesting 
young  stranger,  with  the  conviction  that  its  milky  juice 
will  clear  the  throat,  and  more  effectually  enable  it  to 
announce  its  welcome  arrival.  Mr.  Wilson,  the  manag- 
ing director  of  Price's  Patent  Candle  Company,  at  Vaux- 
hall,  writes  to  me : — "  The  oil  of  the  Aleurites  triloba  is 
fine  and  hard,  worth  at  least  as  much  as  sesame  or  rape 
oil,  in  this  market.  It  is  held  very  lightly  in  its  matrix, 
and  should  be  pressed  where  grown.  If  the  '  nuts '  were 
brought  home  in  their  shells,  the  freight  would  be  ex- 
pensive ;  and  if  shelled,  insects  would  eat  them."  The 


OILS    AND    VEGETABLE   FAT.  285 

candle-nut  tree  is  of  middle  size,  common  throughout 
Fiji,  and  rendered  a  conspicuous  object  by  the  whiteness 
of  its  leaves,  produced  by  a  fine  powder  easily  removed. 
The  ground  underneath  is  always  densely  covered  with 
"  nuts,"  and  large  quantities  might  be  collected. 

The  cro ton-oil  plant  (Curcas  purgans,  Med.),  intro- 
duced from  the  Tongan  islands,  is  employed  for  living 
fences  in  Lakeba  and  other  parts  ;  but  the  oleaceous  pro- 
perties of  its  seeds  have  as  yet  been  turned  to  as  little 
account  as  those  of  the  castor-oil  plant  (Ritinus  commu- 
nis.  Linn.),  named  "  Uto  ni  papalagi "  by  the  natives, 
and  naturalized  throughout  the  group. 

The  oil  of  the  cocoa-nut  palm,  or  Niu  dina  (Cocos 
nucifera.  Linn.),  has  long  been  one  of  the  articles  of  ex- 
port ;  nevertheless,  it  is  difficult  to  arrive  at  any  definite 
result  about  the  average  annual  quantity.  The  Wesleyan 
mission,  in  negotiating  with  an  island  trader  for  the  trans- 
port of  the  oil  received  from  the  natives  as  contribu- 
tions to  its  funds,  were  ready  to  guarantee  that  at  least 
sixty  tuns  should  pass  through  his  hands.  This,  at  the 
rate  of  £20  per  tun,  the  average  value  of  the  oil  on  the 
spot,  would  give  £1200  per  annum — a  sum  tolerably  well 
agreeing  with  that  usually  advertised  on  the  wrapper  of 
the  '  Wesleyan  Missionary  Notices '  as  the  Fijian  share 
towards  the  support  of  the  Society.  Exact  data  for 
forming  an  opinion  of  the  quantity  shipped  by  the  ac- 
tual traders  are  altogether  wanting.  On  consulting  with 
several  about  this  subject,  they  pretty  nearly  all  agreed 
in  fixing  three  hundred  tuns  as  the  utmost  limit  of  the 
annual  export  of  the  whole  group,  =  £6000  on  the  spot. 
Hitherto,  there  has  been  great  waste  in  the  making  of 


286  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

oil,  the  native  process  being  of  a  primitive  description. 
To  remedy  this  evil,  Captain  Wilson  and  M.  Joubert,  of 
Sydney,  have  set  up  proper  machinery  on  their  estate  at 
Somosomo,  after  one  of  the  partners  had  familiarized 
himself  with  the  latest  improvement  in  that  branch  of 
industry  in  Ceylon ;  and  it  is  their  intention  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  the  luxuriant  manner  in  which  Coboi,  or 
lemon-grass  (Andropogon  Schoenanthus,  Linn.),  grows  in 
Fiji,  by  cultivating  it  for  the  purpose  of  making  citro- 
nella  oil.  Cocoa-nut  oil  congealing  at  a  temperature  of 
about  72°  Fahr.,  and  the  thermometer  during  the  cool 
months  often  falling  below  that  degree,  a  proper  amount 
of  warmth  will  be  kept  up  whilst  the  operation  of  press- 
ing the  pulverized  kernels  is  going  on,  and  thus  another 
step  be  taken  towards  the  making  of  the  largest  quan- 
tity of  oil  from  the  least  number  of  nuts.  Wilkes,  upon 
the  authority  of  one  of  the  scientific  men  attached  to 
his  expedition,  states  that  there  were  only  two  varieties 
of  cocoa-nut,  a  green  and  a  brown.  Closer  attention  to 
the  subject  would  have  shown  this  to  be  a  mistake ;  not 
only  the  colour,  but  also  the  average  size  and  shape  of 
the  fruits,  the  height  of  the  trees,  and  the  insertion  of 
the  leaflets,  or  rather  segments,  offer  marks  of  distinc- 
tion between  the  numerous  varieties  with  which  the  is- 
lands are  studded.  The  most  striking  kind  is  the  one 
having  fruits  not  much  larger  than  a  turkey's  egg,  and 
bearing  more  than  a  hundred  of  them  in  each  bunch. 
Several  trees  were  noticed  at  Kadavu.  about  Yarabale, 
a  narrow  isthmus,  where  canoes  are  dragged  across  from 
sea  to  sea.  The  curious  phenomenon  of  a  cocoa-nut 
palm  becoming,  as  it  were,  branched  by  the  division  of 


OILS   AND    VEGETABLE   FAT.  287 

the  trunk,  has  occasionally  been  witnessed  in  Fiji ;  and 
two  interesting  instances  of  it  are  given  in  Williams's 
'  Fiji  and  the  Fijians,'  where  one  of  the  trees  is  described 
with  five  branches.  In  Samoa  Mr.  W.  Pritchard  saw  a 
tree  with  two  heads,  regarded  with  just  pride  by  the 
natives  who  possessed  it,  and  cut  down  during  a  war  by 
their  enemies.  As  in  other  parts  of  Polynesia,  the  trunk 
is  made  into  small  canoes,  or  supplies  materials  for 
building  and  fencing ;  stockades  of  it  are  impenetrable 
to  bullets.  The  leaves  are  made  into  different  kinds  of 
mats  and  baskets ;  yam  houses  are  occasionally  thatched 
with  them,  but  these  roofs  do  not  last  much  longer 
than  a  year.  The  spathe  enclosing  the  flowers  is  used 
for  torches;  the  fibres  surrounding  the  nut  are  made 
into  "  sinnet,"  used  for  fastenings  of  all  kinds.  The 
young  flesh  is  delicious  eating,  and  the  "water"  con- 
tained in  the  nuts  a  refreshing  drink,  which,  as  the 
fruit  advances,  undergoes  a  gradual  change,  for  all  of 
which  there  are  distinctive  names.  New-comers  soon 
fix  upon  a  certain  stage  most  agreeable  to  their  palate, 
and  on  indicating  it  to  the  natives  they  will  readily  pick 
it  out  by  knocking  with  their  fingers  on  the  outside  of 
either  the  husked  or  the  unhusked  nut,  and  be  guided 
by  the  sound.  This  process  requires  long  practice,  and 
though  I  tried  hard  to  learn  at  least  the  sound  of  that 
stage  I  preferred,  I  did  not  succeed  in  accomplishing  it. 
The  ripe  nuts  are  grated  and  used  for  puddings,  or  given 
to  fowls  and  pigs.  Some  persons  have  a  predilection 
for  nuts  when  just  in  the  act  of  germinating — a  taste 
which  the  Asiatic  shares  in  eating  the  young  palmyras, 
and  the  African  in  consuming  the  seedlings  of  the 


288  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Borassus  ?  jEthiopicum,  Mart.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that 
so  few  plantations  of  cocoa-nut  trees  are  formed  by 
white  settlers.  The  annual  value  of  a  fruit-producing 
tree  is  never  less  than  one  dollar ;  and  how  easily  might 
10,000  nuts  be  set  in  the  ground,  and  the  value  of  an 
estate  be  permanently  raised.  Every  part  of  the  smaller 
islands  and  the  sea-borders  of  the  larger  are  suitable  lo- 
calities. Only  Bau,  Viwa,  and  the  districts  adjacent, 
form  an  exception:  the  trees,  as  soon  as  they  have* 
reached  a  certain  height,  become  diseased ;  their  leaves 
look  as  if  dipped  in  boiling  water,  and  their  fruits  are 
few  in  number,  poor,  and  often  drop  off  before  they 
arrive  at  maturity ;  a  thick  layer  of  marl,  forming  the 
subsoil  of  those  districts,  seeming  to  oppose  that  ready 
drainage  the  cocoa-nut  tree  requires,  and  which  it  enjoys 
in  so  eminent  a  degree  on  the  white  beaches  of  sand  and 
decomposed  corals. 

Starch  is  produced  by  four  indigenous  plants,  viz.  Roro 
(Cycas  circinaliS)  Linn.),  Yabia  dina  (Tacca  pinnatifida, 
Forst.),  Yabia  sa  (Tacca  sativa,  Humph.),  and  Niu  soria 
or  Sogo  (Sagus  Vitiensis,  Wendl.),  to  which  of  late  years 
has  been  added  the  Cassava  root  of  Western  America 
(Manihot  Aipi,  Pohl),  commonly  termed  by  the  Fijians 
"  Yabia  ni  papalagi,"  i.  e.  foreign  arrowroot.  The  Roro 
(Cycas  circinalis.  Linn.),  a  tree  thirty  feet  high,  is  by 
no  means  a  common  plant  in  the  islands,  having  been 
encountered  only  at  Viti  Levu  and  Ovalau  in  isolated 
specimens ;  and  as  the  pith-like  substance  contained  in 
the  trunk  was  reserved  for  the  sole  use  of  the  chiefs, 
and  forbidden  to  the  lower  classes,  no  inducement  ex- 
isted on  the  part  of  those  debarred  from  it  to  extend  it 


STARCH.  289 

by  cultivation,  as  is  done  in  the  Tongan  islands.  The 
two  kinds  of  Yabia  are  the  arrowroot  of  Fiji,  errone- 
ously stated  by  Wilkes  and  others  to  be  the  Maranta 
anmdinacea,  Linn.  They  are  both  species  of  Tacca; 
their  foliage  springing  up  in  great  abundance  in  the 
beginning  of  the  warm  season,  and  their  tubers  ripening 
about  June,  when  leaves  and  flowers  die  off.  The  most 
common  is  that  kind  termed  on  the  Macuata  coast 
Yabia  dina  (genuine  arrowroot),  the  Tacca  pinnatifida, 
Forst.  It  delights  in  light  sandy  soil,  and  is  therefore 
most  frequently  encountered  on  the  seashore ;  whilst 
the  second  species,  known  in  Macuata  as  "  Yabia  sa," 
is  almost  entirely  confined  to  the  sides  of  hills  and 
heavy  soil.  The  natives  prefer  the  first-mentioned  spe- 
cies for  the  purpose  of  making  arrowroot,  though  they 
own  that  there  is  no  difference  in  the  quality  of  the 
farinaceous  substance  prepared  from  either.  In  most 
parts  of  Fiji  there  are  no  distinctive  names  for  the  two 
kinds,  both  being  called  "Yabia;"  yet  the  natives  are 
perfectly  well  acquainted  with  their  various  characters 
and  peculiarities  of  habitat.  The  leaf,  stalks,  and  scape 
of  the  Yabia  sa  are  prominently  speckled,  and  the  seg- 
ments of  the  leaves  are  long  and  narrow,  by  which  it  is  at 
once  distinguished  from  its  ally.  The  tubers,  when  quite 
ripe,  are  dug  out  of  the  ground  and  rasped  on  the~mush- 
room  coral  (Fungia  sp.).  The  fleshy  mass  thus  pro- 
duced is  washed  in  fresh  water  to  enable  the  starch  to 
settle  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  in  which  the  operation 
is  carried  on ;  by  pouring  off  the  dirty  water,  and  re- 
peated washings,  the  starchy  sediment  may  be  made  to 
assume  any  desired  degree  of  whiteness.  Since  Fijian 

u 


290  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

arrowroot  has  become  an  article  of  foreign  demand,  it 
has  been  pointed  out  to  the  natives  that  the  impurities 
imparting  a  greyish  colour  to  the  production,  caused 
partly  by  not  peeling  the  tubers  previous  to  rasping 
them,  partly  by  not  washing  the  sediment  a  sufficient 
number  of  times,  must  be  removed  in  order  to  raise  the 
marketable  value  of  the  article.     When  a  satisfactory 
degree  of  whiteness  has  been  attained,  the  starch  is 
dried  in  the  sun.     For  their  own  consumption  the  Fiji- 
ans  do  not  dry  their  arrowroot,  but  tie  it  up  in  bundles 
of  leaves  and  bury  it  in  the  ground,  when  it  speedily 
ferments,  and  emits  a  rather  disagreeable  odour.    South 
Sea   arrowroot  fetches  from  threepence   halfpenny  to 
fourpence  per  pound  in  London  ;  and,  as  it  is  invaluable 
when  taken  in  cases  of  dysentery  and  diarrhoea, — the 
bane  of  the  South  Seas, — it  is  necessary  to  have  it  genu- 
ine.    The  Tonguese  have  of  late  years  been  known  to 
adulterate  it  to  a  great  extent  with  lime  in  order  to  in- 
crease its  weight  and  volume,  but  this  fraud  may  readily 
be  detected  by  watching  the  arrowroot  when  it  first 
comes  in  contact  with  water ;  if  adulterated  with  lime,  it 
will  fizz.     Care  should  also  be  taken  to  guard  against 
the  starch  of  the  Cassava  or  Tapioco  plant  being  passed 
off  for  Polynesian  arrowroot,  which,  from  its  slightly 
purgative    tendency   and   poisonous   properties,    is   ill- 
adapted  for  bowel  complaints.     It  is  much  whiter  than 
the  arrowroot  made  of  Tacca,  sticks  to  the  hands  like 
flour,  and  when  a  little  water  is  allowed  to  act  upon  it, 
it  assumes  a  pinkish  colour ;  whilst  the  arrowroot  made 
of  Tacca  has  a  granulated  feel,  does  not  adhere  to  the 
hand  like  flour,  and  is  not  changed  in  colour  by  contact 


SAGO.  291 

with  water.     The  Cassava  root  has  of  late  years  been 
introduced  into  Fiji,  and  grows  remarkably  well. 

The  Niu  soria  or  Sogo  (Sagus  Vitiensis,  Wendl.)  is  a 
genuine  sago-palm,  growing  in  swamps  on  Viti  Levu, 
Vanua  Levu,  and  Ovalau,  and  was  first  discovered  by 
Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself  when  on  our  first  visit  to 
Chief  Kuruduadua.  By  asking  the  natives  respecting 
the  various  palms  of  the  islands,  they  described  one 
which  I  was  led  to  consider  as  the  sago-yielding  tree, 
and  hence  we  made  inquiries  at  all  the  places  we  called, 
but  did  not  obtain  a  sight  of  it  until  we  reached  Taguru, 
on  the  southern  coast  of  Viti  Levu,  and  thence  west- 
ward it  was  encountered  in  abundance.  Fine  groves, 
several  miles  in  extent,  were  seen  by  us  on  the  various 
branches  and  deltas  of  the  Navua  river.  It  was  after- 
wards ascertained  to  grow  on  Ovalau ;  and  Mr.  Water- 
house,  when  accompanying  Colonel  Smythe,  found  an 
extensive  grove  on  the  north-eastern  parts  of  Vanua 
Levu.  The  natives  of  Ovalau  term  this  palm  Niu  soria, 
those  of  Viti  Levu,  Sogo  (pronounced  "  Songo  ") ;  the  lat- 
ter name  reminding  one  of  "  Sago  "  or  "  Sagu,"  by  which 
some  species  of  Sagus  are  known  in  other  islands  inha- 
bited by  the  Papuan  race ;  and  rendering  the  discovery 
of  this  palm  ethnologically  as  interesting  as  it  is  impor- 
tant commercially,  by  adding  another  raw  product  to 
the  export  list  of  the  islands,  and  botanically,  by  ex- 
tending the  geographical  range  of  sago-yielding  palms 
1500  miles  further  south-east  than  it  was  previously 
known  to  exist.  The  natives  of  Fiji  were  unacquainted 
with  the  nutritious  qualities  residing  in  the  trunk,  until 
Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself  extracted  the  sago  from  it. 

u  2 


292  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

The  Sogo  grows  in  swamps,  and  the  natives  occasion- 
ally take  advantage  of  the  open  places  among  the  groves 
to  plant  taro,  or  even  clear  Sogo  land  for  that  purpose. 
The  dimensions  of  the  finest  specimens  were  accurately 
measured.  The  largest  trees  felled  were  from  forty  to 
fifty  feet  high,  and  their  trunks,  in  the  thickest  parts, 
from  three  feet  nine  inches  to  four  feet  four  inches  in 
circumference.  The  trunk  is  very  straight,  and  densely 
covered  with  aerial  roots,  six  to  twelve  lines  long,  all 
having  the  peculiarity  of  being  directed  upwards.  The 
crown  generally  consists  of  about  sixteen  living  leaves 
in  all  stages  of  development,  and  there  are  mostly  five 
or  six  dead  ones  still  adhering  to  it.  The  pinnatifid 
leaves  are  of  a  dark  green,  seventeen  feet  long ;  whilst 
the  leaflets,  gracefully  drooping  at  the  tips,  are  from 
three  and  a  half  to  four  feet  long,  and  three  and  a  half 
inches  broad.  The  petiole  is  covered  with  spines,  which 
at  its  base  are  arranged  in  connected  rows  extending 
from  side  to  side,  and  towards  the  top  in  horse-shoe- 
shaped  collections.  The  spines  are  brown,  and  from  one 
and  a  half  to  two  and  a  half  inches  long.  When  the 
tree  has  attained  maturity  there  appears  a  terminal  pa- 
nicle about  twelve  feet  high,  and  divided  into  twenty 
or  more  branches.  These  branches  measure  eight  feet 
in  length,  and  are  again  divided  into  about  fourteen 
branchlets  (each  averaging  from  fourteen  to  sixteen 
inches).  The  fruit,  in  outer  appearance  resembling  an 
inverted  pine-cone,  is  beautifully  polished  and  of  a 
yellowish  brown,  much  lighter  than  that  of  Sagus  Hum- 
hiiy  Mart.  This  palm  forms  a  prominent  feature  in  the 
landscape,  the  foliage  fluttering  like  gigantic  plumes  in 


SAGO.  293 

the  wind,  and  outbidding  the  cocoa-nut  in  gracefulness 
of  outline  and  movement ;  the  bold  look  of  the  flowers 
suddenly  starting  from  the  extremity  of  the  trunk,  and 
proclaiming,  as  it  were  by  signal,  that  the  time  has 
arrived  when  nature  has  completed  her  task  of  laying  up 
stores  of  nutritious  starch,  and  that  unless  the  harvest  is 
at  once  gathered  in,  nothing  will  remain  of  the  produce 
of  years  save  the  receptacle  in  which  it  was  treasured  up. 
Even  the  old  dead  trees,  standing  like  so  many  skeletons 
amongst  a  host  of  young  plants,  present  an  interesting 
appearance,  reminding  one  of  the  posts  with  their  many 
arms  over  which  the  wires  of  electric  telegraphs  are 
carried.  Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself  felled  six  trees,  and 
carried  two  logs  to  Lado,  where  we  made  sago  of  one  of 
them  by  grating  and  washing  the  yellow-white  substance 
with  which  the  inside  was  filled.  The  term  "  spongy  " 
does  not  well  apply  to  this  substance ;  it  has  rather  the 
consistency  of  a  hard-baked  loaf,  and  that  taken  from 
the  base  of  the  tree  has  a  sweet  and  pleasant  taste ;  to- 
wards the  top  it  was  more  insipid.  For  the  purpose  of 
collecting  sago  it  is  of  the  highest  importance  that  the 
tree  should  be  cut  down  just  at  the  time  when  the 
flowers  begin  to  show  themselves ;  if  felled  sooner  the 
tree  has  not  attained  its  proper  development,  and  the 
quantity  of  farinaceous  matter  will  not  be  so  great  as  at 
the  period  indicated ;  if,  on  the  other  hand,  the  cutting 
down  is  deferred  until  the  fruit  has  been  formed,  a  con- 
siderable diminution  of  the  quantity  of  sago  meal  will 
be  observed ;  and  the  longer  such  a  postponement  takes 
place,  the  less  chance  there  is  of  collecting  a  remunera- 
tive amount,  as  the  tree,  when  it  has  borne  flower  and 


294  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

fruit,  which,  unlike  the  cocoa-nut  palm,  it  does  only 
once  during  the  term  of  its  existence,  speedily  dies  and 
crumbles  into  dust.  The  trees  are  easily  felled,  only  the 
outer  layers  of  wood  possessing  any  hardness,  the  central 
parts  being  as  soft  as  bread,  so  that  a  few  strokes  with 
a  good  axe  will  bring  the  largest  tree  to  the  ground.* 

Several  kinds  of  spice  are  indigenous,  or  have  become 
naturalized.  Turmeric  (Curcuma  long  a,  Linn.),  termed 
"  Cago "  by  the  Fijians,  grows  abundantly  in  all  the 
lower  districts.  The  whites  use  the  rhizome  in  the  pre- 
paration of  curry,  and  the  natives  the  powder  of  it  as 
food,  or  more  commonly  to  daub  over  the  bodies  of 
women  after  childbirth  and  those  of  dead  friends — a 
custom  also  prevailing  in  the  Samoan  group,  according 
to  Mr.  Pritchard.  In  the  few  districts  that  have  as  yet 
not  been  brought  under  the  immediate  influence  of  the 
British  Consul  or  the  missionaries,  the  heathen  widows 
are  painted  with  it  before  strangulation.  In  fact,  tur- 
meric powder  is  with  the  Fijian  what  rouge  and  Kow- 
land's  preparations  are  with  us,  a  cosmetic.  Promoting 
in  their  opinion  health  and  beauty,  it  is  put  on  with  no 
sparing  hand  by  the  women,  and  pointed  remarks  are 
made  about  too  great  a  proximity  if  a  man  be  unfortu- 
nate enough  to  have  some  stains  of  turmeric  on  his  body 
or  scanty  dress.  The  manufacture  of  turmeric  is  similar 
to  that  of  arrowroot,  and  is  generally  managed  by  the 
women.  The  receiving  pits  dug  in  the  ground  are  lined 
with  herbage,  so  as  to  retain  the  juicy  parts.  The  grated 
rhizome  is  afterwards  placed  in  the  body  of  a  canoe,  and 

*  Dr.  Bennett,  of  Sydney,  found  a  sago  palm  on  Botuma,  north  of  Fiji, 
possibly  identical  with  the  Fijian,  but  there  are  no  specimens. 


SPICES.  295 

rolled  up  and  strained  through  a  fine  basket  lined  with 
fern  leaves.     It  is  then  carried  away  in   bamboos,  and 
for  several  days  exposed  to  the  air,  when  the  fluid  is 
gently  poured  off,  and  a  sediment,  the  Eerega  of  Fiji  or 
turmeric  of  commerce,  is  found  at  the  bottom.  A  species 
of  ginger  (Zingiber  Zerumbet,  Rose.)  also  abounds  in  the 
lower  districts  of  the  group,  where  it  is  called  "  Beta." 
The  rhizome,  though  less  pungent  than  that  of  the  spe- 
cies exported  from  China,  has  been  found  to  make  tole- 
rably good  preserves,  and  answers  all  the  other  purposes 
for  which  genuine  ginger  (Zingiber  officinale,  Linn.)  is 
commonly  employed.     During  our    journey   we    often 
used  it  with  turmeric,  a  few  leaves  of  an  aromatic  Zingi- 
beraceous  plant  termed  "  Cevuga  "  (Amomum  sp.),  and 
a  few  fruits  of  the  bird's-eye  pepper  for  making  curry, 
which,  all  the  ingredients  being  fresh,  proved  of  excel- 
lent flavour.     A  species  of  Nutmeg  (Myristica  castanece- 
folia,  A.  Gray),  termed  "  Male,"  is  found  in  the  larger 
islands,    forming  trees    sixty  to    eighty  feet  high,  but 
yielding  a  very  inferior  kind  of  timber,  which  rapidly 
decays  when  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  weather. 
Both  its  mace  and  nut  prove  a  good  substitute  for  those 
of  the  genuine  nutmeg  (Myristica  moschata,  Linn).   The 
"  nut "    was  turned   to    no    account  until   the  whites 
pointed  out  its  valuable  properties.    It  is  about  the  size 
of  a  pigeon's  egg ;  the  mace  (arillus)  is  of  a  fine  pink 
colour,  and  the  shape  of  the  nut  it  encloses  is  too  oblong 
to  allow  this  kind  of  nutmeg  ever  to  be  passed  off  for  the 
genuine  and  best  sorts  of  the  Indian  Archipelago,  though 
the  Fijian  produce  may  resemble  them  in  every  other 
respect.     Bird's-eye  pepper  (Capsicum  frutescens,  Linn.) 


296  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

is  met  with  in  every  part  of  the  islands,  especially  in 
places  under  cultivation,  producing  rich  harvests  of 
red  pungent  fruits.  The  Fijians  call  it  "  Boro  ni  papa- 
lagi"  (i.  e.  foreign  Boro),  in  contradistinction  to  "  Boro  ni 
Viti,"  or  Fijian  Boro  (Solatium  anthropophagorum,  Seem., 
and  S.  oleraceum*  Dun.) ;  thus  indicating  that  the  bird's- 
eye  pepper  has  been  introduced  by  the  white  man,  and 
is  merely  to  be  looked  upon  as  naturalized,  not  wild. 

The  staple  food  is  the  same  all  over  Polynesia,  being 
derived,  with  the  total  exclusion  of  all  grain  and  pulse, 
from  the  yam,  the  Taro,  the  banana,  the  plantain,  the 
breadfruit,  and  the   cocoa-nut;  but  the  bulk  of  it  is 
furnished  in  the  different  countries  by  only  one  of  these 
plants.     In  the    Hawaiian  group  the  Taro  takes  the 
lead,  whilst  the  cocoa-nut  is  looked  upon  as  a  delicacy, 
from  which  the  women  were  formerly  altogether  cut  off. 
In  some  of  the  smaller  coral  islands  the  inhabitants  live 
almost  entirely  upon  cocoa-nuts.     The  Samoans  place 
the  breadfruit  at  the  head  of  the  list.  Again,  the  Fijians 
think  more  of  the  yam  than  of  the  others,  though  all 
grow  in  their  islands  in  the  greatest  perfection  and  in  an 
endless  number  of  varieties.     A  striking  proof  of  how 
much  the  yam  engages  their  attention  is  furnished  by 
the  fact  of  its  cultivation  and  ripening  season  being  made 
the  chief  foundation  of  their  calendar ;  and  that  only 
such  of  the  eleven  months,  into  which  the  year  is  divided, 
bear  no  names  indicative  of  it,  in  which  the   crop  re- 
quires no  particular  attention,  or  has  been  safely  housed. 
A  version  of  this  calendar  has  been  published  by  Wilkes 
in  '  The  Narrative  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Ex- 
pedition,' and  is  placed  in  juxtaposition  with  one  die- 


STAPLE   FOOD.  297 

tated  to  me  by  an  intelligent  Bauan  chief,  and  the  con- 
sular interpreter,  Mr.  Charles  Wise.  The  names  given 
by  me,  as  well  as  their  succession,  do  not  quite  agree  with 
those  given  by  Wilkes.  This  discrepancy  is  partly  ex- 
plained by  Wilkes  having  taken  down  his  list  from  the 
lips  of  Europeans  imperfectly  versed  in  Fijian,  and  by 
his  adopting  a  loose  way  of  spelling.  The  names  of  the 
months  may  also  be  different  in  different  parts  of  the 
group.  The  subject,  however,  requires  still  further  in- 
vestigation. If,  as  has  been  averred,  the  Fijians  inva- 
riably commenced  the  months  with  the  appearance  of 
the  new  moon,  there  would  soon  have  been  a  vast  dif- 
ference between  the  lunar  and  the  solar  year.  To  guard 
against  the  irregularity  that  would  thus  have  been  in- 
troduced into  the  seasons,  and  to  make  the  lunar  year 
correspond  with  the  solar,  it  would  have  been  necessary 
either  to  intercalate  a  moon  after  every  thirty-sixth 
moon,  or  to  allow  a  greater  period  of  time  for  one  of 
the  eleven  months  into  which  the  Fijian  year  is  divided. 
The  latter  seems  to  have  been  effected  by  the  Vula  i 
were  were  (clearing  month).  Hazel  wood  ('  Fijian  and 
English  Dictionary,'  Viwa,  1850,  p.  180)  allows  four 
months,  May,  June,  July,  and  August,  for  it ;  but  this 
cannot  be  correct,  as  it  would  derange  the  others.  By 
restricting  it  to  two  or  thereabouts,  June  and  July,  a 
proper  arrangement  is  effected.  I  place  the  Vula  i 
werewere  first  in  my  list  instead  of  the  month  answering 
to  January,  because  it  is  in  the  spring  of  the  year  (June 
and  July),  and  the  commencement  of  the  agricultural 
operations  and  natural  phenomena  upon  which  the  ca- 
lendar is  based. 


298 


A   MISSION   TO   V1TI. 


Fijian  Calendar. 


ACCOEDING   TO    SEEMANN. 

1.  Vula  i  werewere  =  June, 

July,  clearing  month ; 
when  the  land  is  cleared 
of  weeds  and  trees. 

2.  Vula  i  cukicuki  =  August; 

when  the  yam -fields  are 
dug  and  planted. 

3.  Vula  i  vavakadi  =  Sep- 

tember ;  putting  reeds 
to  yams  to  enable  them 
to  climb  up. 

4.  Vula  i  Balolo  lailai  =  Oc- 

tober; when  the  balolo 
(Palolo  viridis,  Gray),  a 
remarkable  Annelidan 
animal,  first  makes  its 
appearance  in  small 
numbers. 

5.  Vula  i  Balolo  levu  =  No- 

vember ;  when  the  ba- 
lolo (Palolo  viridis, 
Gray)  is  seen  in  great 
numbers ;  the  25th  of 
November  generally  is 
the  day  when  most  of 
these  animals  are  caught. 

6.  Vula  i  nuqa  lailai  =  De- 

cember ;  a  fish  called 
' '  nuqa  "  comes  in  in  iso- 
lated numbers. 

7.  Vula  i  nuqa  levu  =  Jan- 

uary ;  when  the  nuqa 
fish  arrives  in  great  num- 
bers. 


ACCOBDING  TO  WILKES. 

1.   Vulai  were  were,  weeding 
month. 


2.  Vulai    lou    lou,    digging 

ground  and  planting. 

3.  Vulai  Kawawaka. 


4.  Bololo  vava  Konde. 


5.  Bololo  lid). 


6.  Numa  lieb,  or  Nuga  lailai. 


7.  Vulai  song  a  sou  tombe  sou, 
or  Nuga  levu;  reed  blos- 
soms. 


STAPLE    FOOD. 


299 


8.  Vula  ni  sevu  =  February; 

when  offerings  of  the 
first  dug  yams  (ai  sevu) 
are  made  to  the  priests. 

9.  Vula  i Kelikeli  =  March; 

digging  up  yams  and 
storing  them  in  sheds. 


10.  Vula   i    gasau  =  April ; 

reeds  (gasau)  begin  to 
sprout  out  afresh. 

11.  Vula   i    <io^  =  May;    the 

Doi  (Alpliitonia  zizy- 
phoides,  A.  Gray),  a  tree 
plentiful  in  Fiji,  flowers. 


Vulai  songa   sou  seselieb, 
build  yam-houses. 


9.  Vulai  Matua,  or  Endoye 
doye ;  yams  ripe.  (N.B. 
— Vulai  Endoye  doye, 
probably  is  meant  for 
Vula  i  doi ;  the  Doi  is  a 
tree  (Alpliitonia  zizy- 
phoides,  A.  Gray),  B. 
Seemann.) 
Vulai  mbota  mbota. 


10. 


11.  Vulai  kelekele,  or  Vulai 
mayo  mayo ;  digging 
yams. 


The  yam  principally  cultivated  is  the  Lioscorea  alata, 
Linn.,  having  a  square  climbing  stem  without  prickles. 
The  natives  distinguish  a  number  of  varieties,  all  of 
which  are  known  by  the  collective  name  of  "  Uvi." 
Some  have  large,  some  small  roots,  of  either  a  white  or 
more  or  less  purplish  tinge ;  and  upon  these  differences, 
as  well  as  their  shape  and  time  of  maturity,  the  distinc- 
tions are  founded.*  At  Navua,  in  Viti  Levu,  Chief 
Kuruduadua  showed  us  a  lot  of  yams  six  feet  long  and 
nine  inches  in  diameter,  perfectly  mealy,  and  every  part 
good  eating ;  and  specimens,  eight  feet  long,  and  weigh- 
ing one  hundred  pounds,  are  by  no  means  rare  in  the 
group.  Skilful  growers  maintain  that  in  order  to  pro- 

*  These  varieties  are  called  Dannini,  Keu,  Kasokaso,  or  Kasoni,  Voli, 
Sedre,  Lokaloka,  Moala,  Uvi  ni  Gau,  Lava,  Namula,  Eausi,  Balebale,  etc. 


300  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

duce  large  and  abundant  roots  the  settings  ought  to  be 
put  into  hard  and  unprepared  soil.  According  to  their 
notion  the  yam  ought  to  meet  with  resistance  ere  it  will 
put  forth  its  whole  strength,  or,  as  they  sometimes  ex- 
press themselves,  it  must  get  angry  before  it  will  exert 
itself.  I  even  heard  of  a  bet  won  by  a  woman  who 
pursued  this  simple  plan,  and  who  fully  made  good  her 
word,  that  she  would  produce  a  root  large  enough  to  feed 
twenty  people ;  whilst  the  man  who  bet  with  her  could 
only  raise  one  that  would  not  have  fed  one-third  of  that 
number,  though  he  took  great  pains  to  pulverize  and 
prepare  the  soil  for  the  reception  of  the  setting.  The 
general  signal  for  planting  is  the  flowering  of  the  Drala 
(Erythrina  Indica,  Linn.).  As  soon  as  its  blossoms  be- 
gin to  appear,  which  happens  about  July  and  the  be- 
ginning of  August,  all  hands  busy  themselves  about  it. 
The  land  having  already  been  cleared  during  the  pre- 
vious months,  hillocks,  about  two  feet  high  and  four  or 
five  feet  apart,  are  thrown  up ;  these  hillocks  are  known 
by  the  name  of  "  Buke,"  whence  the  highest  mountain 
in  Kadavu,  for  the  first  time  ascended  on  the  6th  of 
September,  1860,  by  Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself,  and  re- 
sembling them  in  shape,  takes  its  name  of  Buke  Levu, 
or  large  yam-hillock.  There  are  no  spades  or  any  other 
iron  tool  for  digging;  all  is  done  with  staves  made  of 
mangrove-wood,  and  the  bare  hands.  Pieces  of  old 
yams  are  set  on  the  top  of  these  hillocks,  and  within 
a  short  space  of  time  they  begin  to  sprout  out.  In  less 
than  a  month  they  require  reeds  for  climbing,  after 
which  little  else  is  needed  than  keeping  the  plantations 
free  from  weeds.  About  February  the  first  yams  begin  to 


STAPLE    FOOD.  301 

ripen,  and  in  the  heathen  districts  offerings  of  them  are 
made  to  the  priests.  In  March  and  April  the  principal 
crop  comes  in,  and  is  stored  in  sheds  thatched  with 
cocoa-nut  leaves.  As  the  season  advances  the  contents 
of  these  sheds  require  at  least  a  monthly  overhauling ; 
the  roots  exhibiting  any  kind  of  decay  have  to  be  re- 
moved to  prevent  their  contaminating  the  healthy  ones. 
Yams  are  eaten  baked,  boiled,  or  steamed,  and  the  na- 
tives can  consume  great  quantities  of  them.  Whole 
cargoes  have  occasionally  been  taken  with  profit  to 
New  South  Wales  and  New  Zealand,  and  whaling  and 
trading  vessels  never  touch  at  the  group  without  laying 
in  a  good  supply. 

There  is  another  esculent  root,  the  Kawai  (Dioscorea 
aculeata,  Linn.),  also  planted  on  artificial  hillocks,  though 
not  so  high  as  those  of  the  yam.  The  stem  of  this 
creeper  is  round,  and  full  of  prickles,  but  it  is  not  ac- 
commodated with  reeds  as  that  of  the  last-mentioned 
species.  It  ripens  about  June ;  on  the  27th  of  that 
month  all  the  leaves  were  dead.  According  to  the  na- 
tives it  never  flowers  nor  fruits,  and  I  looked  in  vain 
over  many  a  field  in  hopes  of  being  able  to  disprove 
the  statement.  It  is  propagated  by  planting  the  small 
tubers  or  roots,  which,  like  the  old  ones,  are  oblong, 
of  a  brownish  colour  outside,  and  a  pure  white  within. 
When  cooked,  the  skin  peels  off  like  the  bark  of  the 
birch-tree,  as  Wilkes  expresses  it.  The  root  is  very 
farinaceous,  and  when  well  cooked  looks  like  a  fine 
mealy  potato,  though  of  superior  whiteness.  The  taste 
recalls  to  mind  that  of  the  Aracacha  of  South  America ; 
there  is  a  slight  degree  of  sweetness  about  it  which 


302  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

is  very  agreeable  to  the  palate.  Altogether  the  Kawai 
may  be  pronounced  one  of  the  finest  esculent  roots  in 
the  world,  and  I  strongly  recommend  its  cultivation  in 
those  parts  of  the  tropics  still  deprived  of  it. 

Several  species  of  wild  yam,  such  as  the  Tikau,  Tivoli, 
and  Kaile,  trail  in  graceful  festoons  over  shrubs  and  trees 
of  nearly  every  wood.  The  Tivoli  (Dioscorea  nummularia, 
Lam.)  has  a  prickly  stem  like  that  of  the  cultivated 
Kawai,  and  climbs  very  high ;  its  roots  are  long,  cylin- 
drical, and  as  thick  as  a  man's  arm.  When  engaged  in 
the  forest  the  natives  will  often  dig  up  these  roots  with 
a  stick,  roast,  and  eat  them  on  the  spot,  when  they  taste 
extremely  palatable.  The  Kaile  (Helmia  lulbifera,  Ktli.) 
somewhat  resembles  the  Tivoli  in  look,  and  is  often  found 
entwined  with  it,  but  its  stems  and  branches  are  round 
and  unarmed,  and  its  roots,  being  acrid,  require  to  be 
soaked  in  water  previous  to  boiling.  The  dish  prepared 
from  them  has  the  appearance  of  mashed  potatoes,  and 
is  made  so  thin  that  it  can  only  be  eaten  with  spoons, 
which  are  either  furnished  by  the  leathery  leaves  of  the 
spoon- tree  or  Tatakia  (Acacia  laurifolia,  Willd.),  or  any 
other  substantial  leaf  that  happens  to  be  at  hand. 

The  Taro,  or,  as  the  Fijian  language  has  it,  the  Dalo 
(Colocasia  antiguorum,  var.  esculenta,  Schott),  is  grown 
on  irrigated  or  on  dry  ground,  perhaps  more  on  the 
latter  than  on  the  former.  The  water  is  never  allowed 
to  become  stagnant,  but  always  kept  in  gentle  motion. 
When  planted  on  dry  ground,  generally  on  land  just 
cleared,  a  tree  or  two  with  thick  crowns  are  left  stand- 
ing in  every  field,  which,  as  the  natives  justly  conclude, 
attracts  the  moisture,  and  favours  the  growth  of  the 


STAPLE   FOOD.  303 

crop.  A  considerable  number  of  varieties  are  known,* 
some  better  adapted  for  puddings,  some  for  bread  (ma- 
drai),  or  simply  for  boiling  or  baking.  The  outer  marks 
of  distinction  chiefly  rest  upon  the  different  tinge  ob- 
servable in  the  leaf,  stalks,  and  ribs  of  the  leaves — 
white,  yellowish,  purple.  When  the  crop  is  gathered 
in,  the  tops  of  the  tubers  are  cut  off,  and  at  once  re- 
planted. The  young  leaves  may  be  eaten  like  spinach ; 
but,  like  the  root,  they  require  to  be  wrell  cooked  in 
order  to  destroy  the  acridity  peculiar  to  Aroideous  plants. 
The  Fijians  prefer  eating  the  cooked  Taro  when  cold — 
a  taste  which  few  Europeans  share  with  them ;  on  the 
contrary,  the  latter  relish  them  quite  hot,  and,  if  pos- 
sible, roasted. 

Besides  the  Taro,  which  is  occasionally  seen  wild  on 
the  banks  of  rivers,  there  are  three  other  indigenous 
Aroideous  plants,  the  corms  of  which  are  used  as  arti- 
cles of  food :  the  Via  mila,  the  Via  kana,  and  the  Daiga. 
The  Via  mila  (Alocasia  Indica,  Schott),  always  gro wing- 
in  swamps,  is  a  gigantic  species,  often  twelve  feet  high ; 
the  trunk  or  corm  of  which — the  edible  part — is,  when 
fully  developed,  as  large  as  a  man's  leg :  a  single  leaf 
weighing  three  and  a  half  pounds.  The  petiole  was 
found  to  be  four  feet  long,  and  ten  inches  in  circum- 
ference at  the  base  ;  the  blade  of  the  leaf  three  feet  two 
inches  long,  two  feet  six  inches  broad,  and  thirteen  feet 
six  inches  in  circumference  !  The  plant  emits  a  nau- 
seous smell,  amply  warning,  as  well  as  the  various  popu- 

*  The  different  kinds  of  Dalo  (Taro)  are,  Basaga,  Bega,  Dalo  ni  Yanua, 
Karakarawa,  Keri,  Kurilagi,  Mumu,  Quiawa,  Sikaviloa,  Sisiwa,  Soki, 
Toakula,  etc. 


304  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

lar  names  it  bears,  against  any  incautious  contact  with 
it.  Besides  the  name  of  Via  mila,  which  signifies  "  acrid 
Via,"  we  have  that  of  Via  gaga,  or  poisonous  Via.  What 
may  be  the  meaning  of  Via  sori,  and  Dranu,  occasion- 
ally applied  to  it,  I  have  not  been  able  to  find  out.  In 
order  to  remove  the  acrid  properties,  the  trunk  is  baked, 
or  first  grated,  and  then  treated  as  madrai  (bread)  in  the 
manner  to  be  explained  below ;  yet,  notwithstanding 
all  precautions,  the  natives  are  frequently  ill  from  eat- 
ing it.  The  Via  kau,  or  Via  kana  (Cyrtosperma  edulis, 
Schott),  is  in  every  respect  a  similar  species,  also  grow- 
ing in  swamps,  not  only  wild,  but  frequently  cultivated 
like  Taro.  It  requires  fewer  preparations  to  render  its 
root  fit  for  food  than  that  of  the  Via  mila,  and  its  fla- 
vour is  considerd  more  agreeable. 

The  Daiga  (Amorphophallus  sp.)  differs  from  the 
three  preceding  Aroideous  plants  both  in  habit  and  mode 
of  growth.  It  is  always  found  on  dry  ground,  and  ap- 
pears in  the  spring  of  the  year,  together  with  arrowroot, 
turmeric,  and  ginger.  Its  foliage  consists  of  a  single 
leaf,  which  rises  from  a  roundish  tuber  to  the  height  of 
from  two  to  four  feet,  having  a  petiole  full  of  soft 
prickles,  and  a  blade  spreading  out  somewhat  like  an  um- 
brella, and  divided  into  numerous,  deeply  cut  segments. 
The  flower,  or  rather  the  spathe,  is  of  a  dull  colour,  not 
put  forth  until  the  leaf  is  beginning  to  die  off,  and  emits 
an  offensive  carrion-like  odour.  In  the  cosmogony  of  the 
Samoans,  the  office  of  having,  by  means  of  its  singular 
foliage,  lifted  up  the  heavens  when  they  emerged  from 
chaos,  is  assigned  to  this  plant ;  and  the  Fijians  recom- 
mend it  as  a  safe  place  of  refuge  when  the  end  of  the 


ESCULENT   ROOTS.  305 

world  approaches,  the  Daiga  being  in  their  opinion  a 
"  Vasu "  to  heaven  (Vasu  kilagi).  A  Vasu,  it  should 
be  added  in  explanation,  is,  according  to  widely- 
spread  Polynesian  custom,  a  nephew  who  holds  the 
movable  property  of  his  mother's  brothers  at  his  almost 
absolute  disposal,  having  the  power  to  do  whatever  he 
pleases  with  it.  Some  Vasus  even  venture  so  far  as  to 
dispose  of  the  very  lands  belonging  to  their  maternal 
uncles.  There  are  Vasus  to  every  family,  town,  and 
kingdom.  A  Vasu  to  heaven  is  the  climax  of  the  whole 
system,  cleverly  employed  in  the  charming  Fijian  story 
of  the  Princess  Vilivilitabua.  The  root  of  the  Daiga 
is  acrid,  but  after  being  freed  from  that  property,  es- 
teemed on  account  of  its  nutritious  qualities.  Being 
thought  to  assist  fermentation,  some  of  it  is  mixed  with 
the  leaven  of  bread ;  for  the  Fijians,  though  not  grow- 
ing any  grain,  or  importing  flour,  prepare  what  they  call 
"  Madrai,"  or  bread,  from  the  fruits  of  the  Ivi  (Inocarpus 
edulis,  Forst.),  Kavika  (Eugenia  Malaccensis,  Linn.),  Ba- 
nana, Plantain,  Breadfruit,  Dogo  kana  or  mangrove, 
and  the  roots  of  the  Taro  ( Colocasia  antiguorum,  Schott, 
var.  esculenta,  Schott),  Kawai  (Dioscorea  aculeata, 
Linn.),  Via  mila  (Alocasia  Indica,  Schott),  Via  kana, 
and  the  Daiga.  A  hole,  having  the  shape  of  an  inverted 
cone,  is  dug  in  the  ground,  and  having  been  lined  with 
leaves,  the  different  materials  are  put  in,  covered  with 
leaves,  earth,  and  stones,  to  undergo  fermentation,  and 
become  fused  into  a  homogeneous  mass.  Two  or  three, 
ay,  even  nine  months  are  allowed  for  that  process. 
When  taken  out,  the  dough  emits  a  sour  foetid  smell.  It 
is  then  either  baked  on  hot  stones,  or  steamed  in  large 

x 


306  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

earthenware  pots;  but  the  taste  is  such  that  few  fo- 
reigners acquire  a  partiality  for  it,  and  the  natives  them- 
selves infinitely  prefer  our  bread  and  biscuit  to  their 
own  madrai.  Yet  it  is  most  fortunate  that  in  a  country 
where  numerous  kinds  of  fruits  and  edible  roots,  how- 
ever abundant  at  certain  seasons,  are  subject  to  such 
rapid  decay,  the  natives  are  acquainted  with  a  simple 
process,  by  means  of  which  they  are  able  to  store  up 
their  provisions,  and  thus  effectually  guard  against  ex- 
treme want  in  a  land  of  plenty. 

A  few  other  esculent  roots  remain  still  to  be  men- 
tioned. Potatoes  (Solanum  tiiberosum,  Linn.)  grown  in 
Mr.  Moore's  garden  at  Mataisuva  I  found  tolerably  good. 
An  attempt  made  by  Mr.  Carey,  at  Wairiki,  to  raise 
radishes,  did  not  succeed.  Shalots  are  cultivated  to  a 
considerable  extent  by  the  natives.  Turnips  have  been 
produced  from  imported  seeds.  The  sweet  potato  (Ba- 
tatas edulis,  Chois.)  is  an  introduction  probably  from 
New  Zealand,  as  the  Fijian  name  (Kumara)  proves  iden- 
tical with  that  given  by  the  Maoris.  It  succeeds  well, 
but  does  not  seem  to  be  much  valued.  The  Masawe  or 
Vasili  Toga  (Draccena  sp.),  is  a  shrub  with  obovate 
leaves,  cultivated,  and  perhaps,  judging  from  the  name 
Vasili  Toga  ( =  Tonga)  it  bears  in  some  parts  of  the 
group,  an  importation  from  the  Tongan  islands.  Its  root 
is  large,  weighs  from  10  to  14  Ibs.,  and  when  baked,  re- 
sembles in  taste  and  degree  of  sweetness,  as  near  as  pos- 
sible that  of  stick-liquorice.  The  Fijians  chew  it,  or  use 
it  for  sweetening  puddings.  They  were  ignorant  of  the 
art  of  extracting  an  intoxicating  liquor  from  it,  known 
to  the  Hawaiians.  There  is  another  species  of  Draccena 


ESCULENT   ROOTS.  307 

closely  resembling  the  Masawe,  and  employed  for  making 
fences.  It  grows  wild  in  the  woods,  and  bears  in  Viti 
Levu  the  name  of  Vasili  Kau.  It  is  as  much  as  fourteen 
feet  high,  and  has  lanceolate  leaves,  which,  in  common 
with  those  of  its  allies,  are  good  fodder  for  sheep,  goats, 
rabbits,  and  cattle.  Its  root  is  small,  and  thought  unfit 
for  food.  The  Vasili  damudamu  or  Ti  Kula  (Dracaena 
ferrea,  Linn.),  has  leaves  similar  in  shape,  but  the  idea 
of  its  being  possibly  a  variety  of  the  preceding  is  pre- 
cluded by  the  fact  of  its  having  large  and  edible  roots. 

Amongst  the  esculent  roots  growing  wild,  and  eagerly 
sought  for  just  before  the  regular  crops  come  in.  or  in 
times  of  scarcity  caused  by  intertribal  wars  during  the 
planting  season,  or  by  unfavourable  weather,  may  be 
named  the  Yaka  or  Wa  yaka  (Pachyrhizus  angulatus, 
Rich.),  a  Papilionaceous  creeper,  with  trifoliated  leaves 
and  whitish  flowers  tinged  with  purple.  In  September 
and  October  its  tubers  send  forth  new  shoots,  which 
grow  with  rapidity  and  yield  a  tough  fibre,  invaluable 
for  fishing-nets.  The  plant  delights  in  open  exposed 
places  and  a  rich  vegetable  soil,  where  the  roots,  which 
generally  assume  a  horizontal  direction,  often  attain 
from  six  to  eight  feet  in  length  and  the  thickness  of  a 
man's  thigh.  When  cooked,  they  have  a  dirty  white 
colour,  and  a  slightly  starchy  but  otherwise  insipid  fla- 
vour, much  inferior,  I  thought,  to  that  of  wild  yams. 
However,  Mr.  Charles  Moore,  of  Sydney,  ate  them  in  New- 
Caledonia,  and  is  inclined  to  pronounce  more  favourably 
upon  their  taste.  Living  plants  were  brought  by  him 
to  the  Sydney  botanic  garden,  where  they  are  now  grow- 
ing with  native  vigour  in  the  open  air. 

X  2 


308  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Kitchen  vegetables  are  supplied  by  a  number  of  wild 
and  cultivated  plants.  The  natives  boil  the  leaves  of 
several  ferns,  among  them  those  of  the  Litobrochia 
sinuata,  Brack.,  and  in  times  of  scarcity  those  of  the  Ba- 
labala  (AlsopMla  excelsa,  R.  Br.) ;  those  of  the  Ota  (An- 
giopteris  evecta,  Hoffm.),  a  species  with  gigantic  foliage, 
are  peculiarly  tender,  and  their  taste  not  unlike  that  of 
spinach.  The  common  brake  (Pteris  aquilina,  Linn., 
var.  esculenta,  Hook,  nl.),  though  plentiful,  does  not 
seem  to  be  used  as  it  is  by  the  Polynesian  tribes  of  New 
Zealand.  The  leaves  of  the  Boro  ni  yaloka  in  gata  (i.  e. 
serpent's-egg  boro),  our  Solanum  oleraceum,  a  spiny  kind 
of  herbaceous  nightshade,  serve  as  "  greens  "  to  both  the 
natives  and  foreigners.  The  young  shoots  of  the  Vaulo 
of  Viti  Levu  (Flagellaria  indica,  Linn.),  known  also,  if  I 
am  not  misinformed,  by  the  names  of  Tui,  Vico,  Turuka, 
and  Malava  in  different  districts,  after  having  been 
boiled,  are  eaten  with  taro  and  yams,  but  only  by  Fijians. 
Two  kinds  of  purslane,  termed  "  Taukuku  ni  vuaka  "  in 
Taviuni  (Portulaca  oleracea,  Linn.,  et  Portulaca  quadri- 
fida,  Linn.),  are  common  weeds  which,  during  my  stay 
at  Somosomo,  were  frequently  brought  to  table.  The 
natives  sometimes  grow  whole  fields  of  the  Bete  or  Vau- 
vau  ni  Viti  (Hibiscus  [AbelmoscJms]  Manihot,  Linn.),  an 
erect  shrub,  attaining  six  or  eight  feet  in  height,  bear- 
ing yellow  flowers  and  lobed  leaves,  which,  especially  if 
not  quite  developed,  are  tender  eating,  relished  even  by 
Europeans.  The  Boro  dina  (Solanum  antliropophagorum, 
Seem.),  a  straggling  shrub  with  glabrous  leaves  and 
scarlet  or  yellow  berries,  possessing  a  faint  aromatic 
smell,  and  resembling  tomatos  in  shape,  has  also  edible 


KITCHEN    VEGETABLES.  309 

leaves  and  fruit.  The  Tomato  (Lycopersicum  esculentum, 
Mill.),  as  a  tropical  production,  is  quite  at  home.  The 
Cajan,  pigeon-pea  or  pea- tree  (Cajanns  Indicus,  Spr.), 
introduced  from  the  United  States,  is  cultivated  success- 
fully. Its  seeds,  when  young,  make  a  tolerably  good 
substitute  for  green  peas,  acceptable  in  a  country  well 
supplied  with  both  wild  and  tame  ducks.  The  Dra- 
lawa  (Lablab  vulgaris,  Savi)  grows  in  great  abundance 
about  Somosomo,  covering  whole  acres  of  ground,  and 
if  not  indigenous,  has  at  all  events  become  perfectly  na- 
turalized in  that  and  various  other  parts  of  the  group. 
It  seems  to  bear  without  interruption  throughout  the 
year,  its  numerous  white  flowers  being  always  seen 
wherever  the  plant  has  established  itself.  The  beans 
are  extremely  tender,  and  after  having  been  boiled  in 
water  and  salt,  oil  and  vinegar  will  convert  them  into 
an  excellent  salad.  A  species  of  Dolichos  was  noticed 
at  Levuka,  in  the  garden  of  a  French  settler.  Indian 
corn  (Zea  Mays,  Linn.),  termed  "  Sila  ni  papalagi" 
(i.  e.  foreign  Sila),  from  its  resemblance  in  habit  and 
foliage  to  the  indigenous  Sila  (Coix  Lachryma,  L.) — 
our  Job's  tears — has  as  yet  been  raised  sparingly,  as 
the  Fijians  and  Polynesians  in  general  have  never  been 
accustomed  to  grow  any  grain  whatever,  and  most  of 
the  white  settlers  are  English,  ignorant  of  the  innu- 
merable uses  to  which  the  Americans  apply  it.  There 
is  only  one  rather  inferior  kind,  a  small  yellow-grained 
one,  and  the  introduction  of  the  larger  and  better  sorts 
would  be  a  boon  easily  conferred  upon  the  islands.  The 
settlers  sadly  complain  that  their  domestic  fowls  (toa) 
become  wild,  and  instead  of  keeping  near  the  houses 


310  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

take  up  their  abode  in  the  woods,  where  they  have  to  be 
shot  when  required.  If  more  Indian  corn  were  grown, 
and  these  birds  fed  with  it  regularly,  they  would  pro- 
bably preserve  their  domestic  habits  as  thoroughly  as 
they  do  in  other  countries.  Hitherto  no  attempts  have 
been  made  to  cultivate  our  so-called  European  vege- 
tables in  the  cooler  regions  of  the  mountains,  where 
they  would  doubtless  thrive  well.  None  have  been 
raised  except  on  the  coast,  where  the  heat  of  the  tropics 
is  not  moderated  by  elevation,  and  the  unchecked  in- 
fluence of  the  sea  air  proves  destructive  to  many  kinds. 
Yet  even  here  cabbages  and  turnips  have  been  produced 
from  foreign  seeds,  and  parsley  may  be  looked  upon  as 
a  permanent  acquisition. 

Bananas  and  plantains — understanding  by  the  for- 
mer those  Musas  the  fruit  of  which  may  be  eaten  raw, 
by  the  latter  those  which  have  to  undergo  some  pro- 
cess of  cooking  before  eating — are  known  by  the  col- 
lective name  of  "  Vudi."  There  are  about  eighteen 
different  species,  or  rather  say  kinds  (for  the  boundary 
between  species  and  variety  has  never  been  determined 
with  accuracy  in  this  genus) — all  of  which  bear  distinc- 
tive names.*  With  the  exception  of  one,  the  Soaqa 
(Musa  Troglodytarnm,  Linn.),  none  are  found  wild,  and 
this  wild  one  even  is  occasionally  met  with  in  planta- 
tions. It  grows  spontaneously  in  the  depth  of  the  forests, 

*  The  following  are  the  different  kinds  known  to  me: — Vudi  ni  papa- 
iagi  (Musa  Chinensis,  Sweet  [Cavendishi,  Paxt.]),  Soaqa  (Musa  Troglo- 
dytarum,  Linn.),  Balawa  ni  Rakiraki,  Bati,  Dreli,  Buli,  Droledrole,  Gone- 
gone,  Leve  ni  Ika,  Mudramudra,  Soqo,  Tumoutala,  Ura,  Vudi  dina,  Vudi 
Kalakala,  Vudi  ni  Toga,  Waiwai  Leka,  Waiwai  Salusalu,  Waiwai  Vula, 
and  Sei. 


EDIBLE    FRUIT.  311 

often  in  ravines,  and  is  distinguished  from  all  con- 
geners by  its  bunches,  instead  of  hanging  down,  being 
perfectly  upright,  and  presenting  a  dense  collection  of 
orange-coloured  fruits.  The  Polynesians,  always  ready 
to  account  for  any  deviation  from  a  normal  type,  have 
not  failed  to  exercise  their  ingenuity  here.  The  Sa- 
moans  assure  us  that  once  upon  a  time  all  the  bananas 
and  plantains  had  a  great  fight,  in  which  the  Soaqa 
(their  Fae)  came  off  victorious,  and  proudly  raised  its 
head  erect ;  whilst  the  vanquished  became  so  humiliated  • 
by  the  defeat  sustained,  that  they  were  never  able  to 
hold  up  their  heads  again.  An  important  addition  to 
their  stock  the  Fijians  received  in  the  Vudi  ni  papalagi 
(i.  e.  foreign  banana),  our  Musa  Chinensis,  which  the  late 
John  Williams,  better  known  as  the  Martyr  of  Ero- 
manga,  brought  from  the  Duke  of  Devonshire's  seat  at 
Chatsworth  to  the  Samoan  or  Navigator  Islands,  whence 
again,  in  1848,  the  Rev.  George  Pritchard  carried  it  to 
the  Tongan  or  Friendly  Islands,  as  well  as  to  the  Fijis.  Its 
introduction  has  put  an  effectual  stop  to  those  famines 
which  previously  were  experienced  in  some  of  these  is- 
lands. Never  attaining  any  greater  height  than  six  feet, 
and  being  of  robust  growth,  it  is  little  affected  by  the 
violent  winds  which  cause  such  damage  amongst  planta- 
tions of  the  taller  kinds,  and  this  advantage,  coupled 
with  its  abundant  yield  and  fine  flavour,  have  induced 
the  natives  to  propagate  it  to  such  an  extent  that, 
notwithstanding  its  comparatively  recent  introduction, 
the  Vudi  ni  papalagi  numbers  amongst  the  most  common 
bananas  of  the  country.  The  fruit  of  the  different  Musas 
is  variously  prepared  by  the  native  cooks.  Bananas  split 


312  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

in  half,  and  filled  with  grated  cocoa-nut  and  sugar-cane, 
make  a  favourite  pudding  (vakalolo),  which,  on  account 
of  its  goodness  and  rich  sauce  of  cocoa-nut  milk,  has 
found  its  way  even  into  the  kitchen  of  the  white  settlers. 
Wilkes  has  already  mentioned  that  the  natives,  instead  of 
hanging  up  the  fruit  until  it  becomes  mellow,  bury  it 
(occasionally,  it  should  be  added)  in  the  ground,  which 
causes  it  to  appear  black  on  the  outside,  and  impairs  the 
flavour.  The  fresh  leaves  are  used  as  substitutes  for 
*plates  and  dishes  in  serving  food  or  for  making  tempo- 
rary clothing,  the  dry  instead  of  paper  for  cigarettos 
(sulu  ka).  In  place  of  the  finger-glasses  handed  round  at 
our  tables  after  dinner,  Fijians  of  rank  are  supplied, with 
portions  of  the  leafstalk  of  the  plantain, — not  a  super- 
fluous luxury  when  forks  are  dispensed  with  except  at 
cannibal  feasts. 

The  breadfruit  is  seen  in  regular  forests,  and  in  a  great 
number  of  varieties,  which  a  new-comer  has  some  diffi- 
culty in  distinguishing  until  he  has  learnt  to  observe 
that  in  the  shape  of  the  leaves — which  are  either  entire, 
pinnatisect,  or  bi-pinnatisect — their  size  and  their  either 
bullate  or  even  surface,  the  shape  and  size  of  the  fruits, 
the  time  of  its  maturity,  the  absence  or  presence,  as  well 
as  the  length  of  the  prickles  on  its  outside,  and  the 
abortion  of  its  ovules  or  their  development  into  seeds, 
offer  good  marks  of  distinction.  The  general  Fijian 
name  for  the  breadfruit  is  "  Uto,"  signifying  "  the  heart," 
from  the  resemblance  of  the  form  of  the  fruit  to  that 
organ,  whilst  the  varieties  are  distinguished  by  additional 
names.  Those  less  frequently  cultivated  are,  however, 
not  known  by  the  same  names  throughout  the  group,  but 


EDIBLE    FRUIT.  313 

bear  different  ones  in  different  districts.  Hence,  the  ex- 
act number  of  varieties  cannot  be  accurately  determined, 
until  there  shall  be  a  botanic  garden  in  Fiji,  where  a 
complete  collection  of  breadfruits  is  cultivated.  I  have 
identified  several  names  of  the  most  prominent  varieties, 
but  hesitate  about  others,  as  I  could  only  take  the  leaves 
with  me  from  place  to  place,  and  often  did  not  see  the 
fruit,  or  had  to  carry  it  in  my  mind's  eye.  The  principal 
breadfruit  season  is  in  March  and  April,  but  some  kinds 
ripen  considerably  later  or  earlier,  whilst  in  some  dis- 
tricts the  season  itself  is  altogether  later.  It  may  thus 
be  said,  speaking  generally,  that  there  is  ripe  breadfruit, 
more  or  less  abundant,  throughout  the  year,  in  either 
one  part  or  the  other.  The  fruit  is  made  into  puddings 
or  simply  boiled  or  baked.  Quantities  of  it  are  pre- 
served underground,  to  make  madrai  or  native  bread. 
Some  kinds  are  best  adapted  for  puddings,  some  for 
bread,  or  culinary  purposes  of  a  still  more  simple  de- 
scription. Besides  the  fruit,  the  wood  of  the  breadfruit 
tree  is  useful,  but  that  of  some  kinds  better  adapted  for 
canoes  and  buildings  than  others.  The  bark  is  not 
beaten  into  cloth,  as  in  other  parts  of  Polynesia ;  but 
the  gum  (drega),  issuing  from  cuts  made  into  the  stem, 
is  used  for  paying  the  seams  of  canoes. 

*  The  two  most  common  sorts  are  Uto  dina  and  Uto 
buco.  The  Uto  dina,  or  true  breadfruit,  has  pinnatisect 
leaves,  the  surface  of  which  is  even,  and  destitute  of  that 
bullate  appearance  which  imparts  to  the  Koqo  and  other 
varieties  an  almost  sickly  look ;  the  fruit,  bearing  abor- 
tive ovules,  is  nearly  round,  smooth  on  the  outside,  and 
supported  on  stalks  four  to  five  inches  long,  which  from 


314  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

the  very  first  are  bent  downwards.  It  is  this  variety 
which  most  botanists  consider  as  the  type  of  the  species, 
and  the  adjective  "  dina,"  true  or  genuine,  given  by  the 
Fijians,  may  be  cited  as  a  proof  of  the  correctness  of  this 
surmise.  But  if  we  have  to  look  for  an  original  stock 
from  which  all  other  sorts  have  sprung,  we  ought  not  to 
select  one  which,  like  the  Uto  dina,  has  invariably  abor- 
tive ovules,  and  can  therefore  not  produce  seeds  from 
which  new  varieties  can  be  raised.  The  Uto  sore,  Uto 
vaka  sorena,  or  Uto  maliva,  as  it  is  termed  in  different 
districts,  has  not  that  deficiency,  but  does  yield  ripe 
seeds  in  abundance,  and  has,  therefore,  greater  claims  to 
be  regarded  as  the  type  from  which  all  the  other  varieties 
may  have  been  raised.  The  name  of  Uto  dina  (true  or 
genuine  breadfruit)  may  perhaps  have  been  applied  on 
account  of  its  goodness,  which,  I  believe,  is  undisputed. 
The  Uto  buco  also  has  pinnatisect  leaves  with  an  even 
surface  as  opposed  to  the  bullate  one  of  other  sorts,  and 
an  obovate  obtuse  fruit  of  larger  size  than  that  of  the 
Uto  dina,  and  quite  free  from  any  prickles  on  the  out- 
side when  fully  ripe.* 

*  In  order  to  obtain  a  clearer  insight  into  the  varieties,  it  will  be  best  to 
subjoin  a  synopsis  of  all  the  breadfruits  cultivated  in  Fiji : — 
I.  LEAVES  ENTIEE  OR  QUITE  ENTIRE. 

1.  Uto  lolo  bears  this  name  in  the  Straits  of  Somosomo,  and  is  called 
Uto  colcocoJco  in  the  Rewa  district ;  perhaps,  also,  identical  with  the    Uto 
dogodogo  and  Uto  draucoJco  mentioned  in  the  Fijian  dictionary.     It  looks 
different  from  all  others,  the  leaves,  especially  when  the  tree  gets  older, 
being  quite  entire  ;  in  young  plants  they  are  sometimes  obscurely  lobed. 
The  fruit  is  without  seeds. 

II.  LEAVES  PINNATISECT. 

2.  Uto  dina. — Known  by  that  name,  and  that  name  only,  throughout 
Fiji.     Leaves  with  an  even  surface  ;  fruit  without  seeds,  nearly  spherical, 


EDIBLE   FRUIT.  315 

Other  edible  fruits,  some  of  delicious  flavour,  are  met 
with  throughout  the  group,  either  perfectly  wild  or  in 
a  state  of  cultivation.  Most  of  them  have  been  in  Fiji 
from  time  immemorial,  and  only  a  few,  such  as  the  pine- 

witli  a  smooth  surface,  and  supported  on  stalks,  four  or  five  inches  long, 
nodding  from  the  first. 

3.  Uto  buco. — Known  by  that  name  throughout  the  group.    Leaves  with 
an  even  surface.     Fruit  ovate  obtuse,  larger  than  that  of  most  sorts,  des- 
titute of  seeds,  and  with  a  smooth  surface  when  ripe. 

4.  Uto  Jcoqo. — Known  by  this  name  throughout  the  group,  but  in  some 
dialects  called  Oqo  and  Qoqo.     Leaves  bullate ;  fruit  without  seeds,  and 
as  large  as  that  of  Uto  dina,  smooth  on  surface. 

5.  Uto  votovoto. — Known  under  this  name  throughout  the  group.  Leaves 
with  an  even  surface ;  fruit  oblong  without  seeds,  and  covered  with  prickles 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  long. 

6.  Uto  varaqa. — Known  by  this  name  in  Rewa  and  Bau  ;   Uto  varaJca 
in  some  dialects.     Leaves   larger  than  those  of  any  other  kind ;   fruit 
roundish,  of  middle  size,  without  seeds,  and  with  a  rough  surface. 

7.  Uto  boJcasi. — Known  by  that  name  in  Rewa  and  Ovalau.  Leaves  with 
even  surface  ;  fruit  obovate,  with  a  smooth  surface,  without  seeds,  erect 
when  young,  nodding  when  ripe,  and  arriving  at  maturity  early  in  the 
season. 

8.  Uto  sore. — Known  by  that  name  in  Eewa,  by  that  of  Uto  valca  sorena 
in  Ovalau,  Uto  asalea  in  the  Straits  of  Somosomo,  and  Uto  maliva  at  Nu- 
kubalaon.     Uto  sasaloa  may  also  prove  a  synonym.  "  Sore  "  or  "  Sorena" 
signifies  a  seed  ;  hence  Uto  sore,  or  Uto  valca  sorena,  is  the  seed-bearing 
breadfruit ;   the  only  kind  in  which  the  ovules  develope  into  seeds,  render- 
ing it  probable  that  this  kind  is  the  parent  of  ail  the  others.     Leaves  with 
even  surface. 

9.  Uto  rokouta. — Known  by  that  name  at  Namara,  near  Bau.     Leaves 
bullate,  giving  the  tree  a  sickly  look. 

10.  Uto  balekana. — Known  by  that  name  in  the  Straits  of  Somosomo  and 
at  Ovalau.  Leaves  with  even  surface ;  fruit  small  but  of  superior  quality, 
according  to  the  natives. 

11.  Uto  qio. — Known  by  that  name  in  Ovalau.     Fruit  almost  as  large 
as  that  of  Uto  buco.     "  Qio  "  is  the  name  for  shark,  and  was  probably 
given  to  this  fruit  from  the  surface  its  resembling  in  roughness  that  of 
the  fish. 

12.  Uto  vonu. — Known  at  Somosomo.     Leaves  .  .  .  ;  fruit  largish. 

III.  LEAVES  BI-PINNATIFID. 

13.  Uto  Tcalasai. — Known  by  that  name  in  Eewa,  and  by  that  of  Uto 


316  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

apple,  the  papaw,  the  custard-apple,  and  the  Chinese 
banana,  have  been  introduced  of  late  years.  The  most 
prominent  place  among  the  native  fruits  undoubtedly 
belongs  to  the  Wi  (Evia  dulcis,  Comm.,  =  Spondias 
dulcis,  Forst.).  The  tree  appears  to  be  self-sown,  and  is 
met  with  in  abundance  about  towns  and  villages.  It  is 
often  sixty  feet  high ;  the  bark  is  smooth  and  whitish, 
the  leaves  pinnate,  glabrous,  and  of  a  dark  green,  form- 
ing a  fine  contrast  with  the  yellow  oval-shaped  fruits 
with  which  the  tree  is  heavily  laden.  The  fruit  has  a 
fine  apple-like  smell,  and  a  most  agreeable  acid  flavour, 
rendering  it  highly  suitable  for  pies ;  indeed,  the  Wi  is 
the  only  Fijian  fruit  which  recommends  itself  for  that 
purpose.  At  Rewa  I  weighed  and  measured  several 
highly  developed  ones,  and  found  the  largest  to  be  ex- 
actly one  foot  in  circumference,  and  one  pound  two 
ounces  in  weight.  The  natives  are  as  fond  of  Wis  as 
the  white  settlers,  and  quite  content  to  make  their 
dinner  of  Taro  and  Wis.  The  Dawa  (Nephelium  pin- 
natum,  Chamb.,  =  Pometia  pinnata,  Forst.)  is  more 
plentiful  than  the  Wi ;  entire  forests  of  it  are  frequently 

sawesawe  in  the  Straits  of  Somosomo.  The  leaves,  especially  when  the 
plant  is  young,  are  distinctly  bi-pinnatifid,  in  which  respect  this  kind  dif- 
fers from  all  others  ;  fruit,  according  to  natives,  rather  oblong  and  covered 
with  prickles. 

Of  the  following  I  know  nothing,  save  the  names,  partly  taken  from 
Hazelwood's  Dictionary,  partly  from  a  list  of  breadfruits  known  atOvalau, 
and  kindly  communicated  by  Mr.  Binner,  of  Levuka.  Most  of  them  will 
doubtless  prove  synonyms  of  those  enumerated  above  : — Draucoko  ( =  Co- 
cocoko?),  Bucotabua,  Utoga  (—  Koqo),  Waisea,  Utoloa  (=Uto  lolo?), 
Matavesi,  Dregadrega  (N.B.  Drega  is  the  name  of  the  gum  issuing  from 
the  stem),  "Buco  uvi."  The"Bucudo"  of  Wilkes's  Narrative,  and  is 
probably  identical  with  Buco,  though  he  mentions  the  latter  name  spelt 
"  Umbuda ;"  but  what  can  be  meant  by  his  "  Botta-bot  "? 


EDIBLE   FRUIT.  317 

encountered,  and  there  appear  to  be  several  varieties. 
It  is  sixty  feet  high,  and  shares  with  most  Fijian  fruit- 
trees  the  peculiarity  of  yielding  a  useful  timber.  The 
leaves  are  pinnate,  the  leaflets  serrate,  and  when  first 
opening,  display  a  brilliant  red  tinge,  which  at  a  dis- 
tance looks  as  if  the  tree  were  in  bloom.  The  flowers, 
arranged  in  terminal  panicles,  are  whitish  and  of  dimi- 
nutive size.  The  fruit,  ripening  in  January  and  Febru- 
ary, has  rather  a  glutinous  honey-like  taste,  and  attains 
about  the  size  of  a  pomegranate.  The  Fijians  deem  the 
Dawa  peculiar  to  their  islands.  It  certainly  does  not 
occur  to  the  eastward  in  a  wild  state,  as  the  Tonguese 
are  said  to  have  obtained  it  from  Fiji;  but  it  seems  to 
be  quite  common  in  all  the  groups  lying  westwards,  the 
New  Hebrides,  New  Caledonia,  and  others.  A  native 
of  Were  assured  me  it  was  plentiful  in  his  island,  and 
Dr.  Bennett,  of  Sydney,  found  it  cultivated  under  the 
name  of  "  Thav,"  at  Kotuma,  a  little  island  to  the  north 
of  Fiji,  as  recorded  in  his  c  Gatherings  of  a  Naturalist.' 
I  succeeded  in  carrying  living  plants  to  the  botanic  gar- 
den at  Sydney,  where  they  were  left  in  charge  of  Mr. 
Moore,  and  whence  they  may  perhaps  find  their  way  to 
the  new  colony  of  Queensland,  and  prove  acceptable 
additions  to  the  fruits  of  that  country. 

The  Kavika  or  Malay-apple  (Eugenia  Malaccensis, 
Linn.)  abounds  in  all  the  forests.  As  in  the  Hawaiian 
and  other  Polynesian  islands,  there  are  two  varieties; 
the  purple  (Kavika  damudamu)  and  the  white  (Kavika 
vulavula).  When  the  tree,  which  attains  about  forty  feet 
in  height,  is  in  flower,  the  ground  underneath  is  densely 
covered  with  petals  and  stamens,  looking,  especially  if 


318  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

the  two  varieties  grow  together,  like  a  fine  Turkey  car- 
pet. I  have  often  seen  the  natives  gathering  handfuls 
of  them  to  strew  on  their  heads.  In  their  idea,  there  is 
scarcely  a  finer  tree  than  the  Kavika ;  and  when  in  their 
fairy  tales  the  imagination  runs  riot,  and  describes  all 
that  is  lovely  and  beautiful,  the  Kavika  is  rarely  omitted. 
The  Hawaiians,  as  I  have  stated  elsewhere  ('  Narrative 
of  the  Voyage  of  H.M.S.  Herald,'  vol.  ii.  p.  83),  thought 
this  tree  worthy  of  supplying  materials  for  their  idols ; 
and  thus,  like  the  Fijians,  recorded  their  veneration  for 
it.  A  botanist,  himself  more  than  half  a  tree-worship- 
per, can  fully  sympathize  with  them.  The  fine  oblong 
leaves,  their  smooth  shining  surface,  the  deep  purple 
or  pure  white  flowers,  and  afterwards  the  large  quince- 
shaped  fruits,  with  their  apple-like  smell  and  deli- 
cate flavour,  are  well  calculated  to  justify  much  of  the 
praise  Polynesians  bestow  upon  the  tree.  The  Ivi,  or 
Tahitian  chestnut,  as  it  has  been  called  by  voyagers 
(Inocarpus  edulis,  Forst),  is  one  of  the  common  trees, 
and  when  fully  grown  has  a  most  venerable  aspect.  I 
still  see  in  my  mind's  eye  a  fine  group  on  the  banks  of 
a  rivulet  between  Wairiki  and  Somosomo,  diffusing  a 
dense  shade.  Sixty,  often  eighty  feet  high,  the  Ivi 
bears  a  thick  crown  of  oblong  leathery  leaves,  small 
white  flowers  emitting  a  delicious  perfume,  and  kidney- 
shaped  fruits,  which  contain  a  kernel  resembling  chest- 
nuts in  taste.  The  kernel  is  either  baked  or  boiled,  and 
eaten  without  further  preparation,  or  grated  on  the 
mushroom  coral  (Fungia),  and  made  into  puddings  or 
bread  (madrai).  The  stem  is  most  singular.  When  young, 
it  is  fluted  like  a  Grecian  column ;  when  old,  it  has  re- 


EDIBLE  ^RUIT.  319 

gular  buttresses  of  projecting  wood.  Ferns,  orchids,  and 
wax-flowers  frequently  take  up  their  abode  on  the  soft 
spongy  bark.  The  roots  of  old  trees  appear  above  the 
ground  somewhat  like  those  of  the  bald  cypress  of 
North  America  (Taxodium  distichum,  Rich.).  Thousands 
of  seedlings  are  continually  springing  up  around  the  old 
plants,  and  nothing,  save  the  dense  shade  of  their  pa- 
rents, and  the  close  proximity  in  which  they  grow  to 
each  other,  exercise  a  check  upon  their  engrossing  all 
the  adjacent  ground.  If  the  fruit  of  the  Ivi  is  com- 
pared with  the  chestnut,  that  of  the  Tavola  (Terminalia 
Catappa,  Linn.)  may  be  likened  to  the  almond,  both  in 
shape  and  whiteness,  though  not  in  taste — the  Tavola 
having  none  of  the  flavour  imparted  by  the  presence  of 
the  essential  oil  of  almonds ;  hence  the  name  of  "  Fijian 
almonds,1'  given  by  the  white  settlers,  must  be  received 
cum  grano  salis.  The  natives  are  extremely  fond  of 
the  Tavola  as  a  tree,  and  frequently  plant  it  around 
their  houses  and  public  buildings.  The  branches,  ar- 
ranged in  whorls,  somewhat  like  those  of  pines,  though 
perhaps  not  quite  so  regular,  have  a  horizontal  ten- 
dency, upon  which  the  natives  improve  by  placing 
weights  upon  them.  The  large  obovate  leaves  are  de- 
ciduous, and  before  falling  off  assume  a  variety  of  tints, 
— brown,  red,  yellow,  and  scarlet,  such  as  one  is  wont 
to  behold  in  a  North  American  forest  before  the  ap- 
proach of  winter.  The  flowers  are  white  and  small ;  the 
wood  hard  and  applicable  to  a  variety  of  purposes.  A 
close  ally  of  the  Tavola  is  the  Tivi  (Terminalia  Moluc- 
cana.  Lam.),  a  timber- tree,  always  growing  on  the  sea- 
beach,  and  bearing  seeds  sometimes  eaten  by  children. 


320  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Like  its  congener,  it  changes  the  colour  of  its  foliage, 
but  the  tints  are  neither  so  rich  as  those  of  the  former, 
nor  is  the  general  habit  of  the  tree  so  striking.  The 
Oleti  or  papaw-tree  (Carica  Papaya,  Linn.),  has  been 
introduced  in  the  early  part  of  this  century,  and  has 
spread  with  such  rapidity  that  there  is  hardly  a  part  of 
the  group  in  which  it  is  not  to  be  found ;  neither  the 
natives  nor  the  white  settlers  (who  sometimes  will  per- 
sist in  calling  it  mamey-apple,  a  very  different  fruit) 
seem  to  care  much  for  it.  Only  a  few  seem  to  be  aware 
that  saponaceous  properties  reside  in  the  leaves,  which, 
in  the  absence  of  soap,  may  be,  and  in  tropical  America 
are,  turned  to  advantage ;  that  both  the  leaves  and  the 
fruit  act  in  an  hitherto  unexplained  way  upon  the  ani- 
mal fibre,  and  make  the  toughest  meat  tender,  if  either 
boiled  with  portions  of  them,  or  even  wrapped  up  in 
the  leaves  ;*  that  the  fruit  is  very  good  eating,  either 
raw  or  boiled ;  and  that  the  seeds,  distinguished  by  a 
mustard-like  pungency,  are  an  efficacious  vermifuge  for 
children.  The  Guayava  (Psidium  Guayava,  Raddi)  is 
another  fruit  of  recent  introduction,  that  has  spread  ra- 
pidly over  the  country,  and  is  eaten  either  raw  or  made 
into  sweetmeats.  One  of  the  custard-apples  (Anona 
squamosa,  Linn.)  has  not  made  such  progress.  I  met  a 
few  trees  on  the  Somosomo  estate  of  Captain  Wilson 
and  M.  Joubert,  of  Sydney,  and  a  few  at  Levuka,  in  the 
garden  of  a  French  settler.  The  loquat  (Eriobotrya  Ja- 
ponica,  Lindl.)  is  of  recent  introduction,  and  seems  to 

*  I  heard  a  wag  telling  a  story  of  an  old  bachelor,  who,  sitting  for  a 
while  under  this  tree  with  a  young  lady,  became  so  tender-hearted  as  to 
pop  the  question. 


EDIBLE    FRUIT.  321 

promise  fair  results.  A  number  of  healthy-looking 
plants  grow  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Binner,  of  Levuka, 
where  the  grape-vine  (Vitis  wnifera,  Linn.)  and  various 
other  useful  plants,  recently  brought  to  the  islands,  are 
also  to  be  met  with.  The  different  species  of  Citrus, 
shaddocks,  oranges,  lemons,  and  Seville  oranges,  are 
known  collectively  as  "  Moli,"  and  distinguished  from 
each  other  by  additional  names.  The  shaddock  (Citrus 
Decumana,  Linn.)  or  Moli  kana  (i.  e.  edible  Moli),  is  ex- 
tremely common,  and  thickly  lines  the  banks  of  rivers  ; 
as,  for  instance,  that  of  Namosi  in  Viti  Levu,  where, 
during  our  stay  in  August,  1860,  the  stillness  of  night 
was  frequently  broken  by  the  heavy  splash  of  the  fall- 
ing fruits.  There  is  a  variety  with  white,  another  with 
pink,  flesh,  both  of  which  are  much  liked  by  the  natives. 
The  Moli  kurukuru  (Citrus  vulgaris,  Eisso)  is  equally  com- 
mon, but  the  Fijians  do  not  make  use  of  it  as  an  article 
of  diet.  The  Moli  kara,  or  lemon  (Citrus  medica,  Eisso), 
has  been  brought  from  Tahiti,  about  1823,  by  Mr.  Van- 
derford,  and  is  almost  exclusively  confined  to  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  present  or  former  habitations  of  white 
settlers.  The  Moli  ni  Tahaiti  ( Citrus  Aumntmm,  Linn.) 
is  the  common  variety  of  the  orange,  also  derived,  as 
the  native  name  indicates,  from  the  Society  Islands, 
whence  it  was  introduced  simultaneously  with  the  le- 
mon, by  Mr.  Vanderford.  Like  the  other  species  of 
Citrus  just  mentioned,  it  succeeds  well,  and  small  car- 
goes of  it  have  occasionally  been  shipped  to  New  Zea- 
land. The  pomegranate  (Punica  Granatum,  Linn.)  is  a 
recent  acquisition.  The  pine-apple  (Ananassa  sativa, 
LindL),  vernacularly  termed  "  Balawa  ni  papalaqi,"  or 

Y 


322  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

foreign  screw-pine,  thrives  well,  especially  near  the  sea. 
There  is,  besides  the  common  variety,  a  proliferous  one, 
having  many  different  sprouts  emerging  from  the  top  of 
the  fruit.  The  water-melon  (Citrullus  vulgaris,  Schrad.) 
is  as  plentiful  as  the  Vaqo,  or  bottle-gourds  (Lagenaria 
vulgaris,  Ser.),  which  supply  the  natives  with  vessels  for 
their  oil.  Melons  (Cucumis  melo,  Linn.),  cucumbers 
(Cucumis  sativa,  Linn.),  and  pumpkins  or  squashes  (Cu- 
curbita  Pepo,  Linn.),  have  also  found  their  way  to  the 
islands,  and,  in  common  with  indigenous  Cucurbitaceous 
plants,  are  collectively  called  "  Timo." 

There  is  besides  a  number  of  fruits  eaten  and  even 
esteemed  by  the  natives,  but  most  insipid  to  a  Euro- 
pean palate.  Foremost  amongst  them  stands  the  Tara- 
wau  (Dracontomelon  sylvestre,  Blume),  which  is  also  con- 
nected with  native  superstitions.  The  Tarawau  does  not 
seem  to  be  regarded  as  a  sacred  tree  in  the  light  of 
those  mentioned  above  (p.  87),  it  not  being  worshipped ; 
but  it  is  held  to  be  the  business  of  the  dead  to  plant  it, 
and  believed  to  grow  not  only  in  this  world,  but  also  in 
Naicobocobo,  the  Fijian  nether-world,  or  perhaps,  more 
correctly,  the  general  starting-place  for  it.  Hence  arose 
the  expression,  "  Sa  la'ki  tei  tarawau  ki  Naicobocobo," 
literally,  "  He  has  gone  to  plant  Tarawaus  at  Naicobo- 
cobo ;"  i.  e.  he  is  dead.  It  is  difficult  to  guess  why  these 
trees  should  have  been  deemed  worthy  of  such  distinc- 
tion ;  they  grow  to  the  height  of  sixty  feet,  have  flattish 
branches,  pinnated  leaves,  insignificant  whitish  flowers, 
and  a  tough  insipid  fruit,  only  palatable  to  the  natives  ; 
moreover,  they  are  regarded  as  the  emblem  of  the  truth- 
speaking  man,  not  having,  as  so  many  others,  a  number 


EDIBLE   FRUIT.  323 

of  false  or  sterile  flowers.  There  is  also  the  Loselose 
(Ficus  sp.),  the  Kura  (Morinda  citrifolia,  Linn.),  the 
Balawa  (Pandanus  odoratissimus,  Linn.),  the  Wa  gadro- 
gadro  (Eubus  tiliaceus,  Smith)  having  a  fruit  resembling 
the  raspberry  in  appearance,  and  being  occasionally 
used  by  white  settlers  for  pies;  the  Bokoi  (Eugenia 
Richii,  A.  Gray),  with  a  fruit  somewhat  like  the  Kavika 
(Eugenia  Malaccensis,  Linn.),  but  inferior  in  flavour; 
the  Sea  (Eugenia  sp.),  still  more  insipid,  if  possible,  than 
the  last-mentioned;  and  the  Nawanawa  (Cordia  subcor- 
data.  Lam.),  producing  an  edible  kernel — a  tree  twenty- 
feet  high,  often  mistaken  for  the  Cordia  Sebestena,  Linn., 
of  the  West  Indies,  which  it  closely  resembles  in  habit, 
but  its  orange  flowers  are  neither  so  brilliant  nor  so 
numerous.  Nor  must  the  Vutu  kana,  or  Vutu  kata 
(Barringtonia  excelsa,  Blume),  be  forgotten.  It  is  a 
tree  forty  feet  high,  cultivated  about  Bau,  and  distin- 
guished from  the  other  Barringtonias  of  Fiji  by  its  egg- 
shaped,  not  angular,  fruit,  eaten  either  raw  or  cooked. 
Another  species  of  Barringtonia,  closely  resembling  the 
foregoing,  is  the  Vutu  dina,  which  is  also  edible ;  but 
whilst  the  fruit  of  the  Vutu  kana  (i.  e.  edible  Vutu)  has 
a  soft  outside,  that  of  the  Vutu  dina  has  a  hard  one, 
requiring  the  application  of  a  knife  before  the  edible 
portion  can  be  got  at.  Finally  must  be  mentioned  the 
Somisomi,  Sosomi,  Tomitomi  or  Tumitumi,  as  the  dif- 
ferent dialets  have  it, — the  Ximenia  elliptica,  Forst.  It 
is  a  sea-side  shrub,  having  simple  leaves,  and  a  spherical 
fruit  containing  a  kernel  like  a  cherry-stone,  and  emit- 
ting, especially  when  green,  a  most  powerful  smell  of 
essential  oil  of  almonds.  The  fruit  when  quite  ripe  is 

Y  2 


324  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

orange-coloured,  and  has,  though  a  tart,  not  a  disagree- 
able flavour.  The  natives  share  a  partiality  for  it  with 
the  wild  pigeons,  which  flock  to  it  in  numbers.  The 
wood  of  the  shrub  is  very  hard,  and  used  for  making 
those  peculiar  pillows  (Kali)  of  the  country,  which  the 
Fijians  doubtless  invented  in  order  to  prevent  the  de- 
rangement of  their  enormously  large  heads  of  hair, 
curled  and  dressed  as  they  are  with  infinite  care. 

The  national  beverage  is  the  Kava,  or,  as  the  Fijians 
term  it,  "  Yaqona,"  prepared  from  the  root  of  the  Piper 
methysticum,  Forst.,  or,  as  its  modem  name  is,  Macro- 
piper  methysticum,  Miq.,  a  species  of  pepper,  of  which 
there  are  six  varieties,  distinguished  by  the  height  of 
the  entire  plant,  the  length  and  thickness  of  the  joints, 
and  the  more  or  less  purplish  or  greenish  tinge  of  the 
stem  and  leaves.  The  best  Yaqona,  for  this  name  applies 
to  the  plant  as  well  as  to  the  beverage  extracted  from 
it,  grows  from  500  to  1000  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and 
in  the  islands  of  Kadavu  and  Viti  Levu.     The  plant  is 
cultivated  throughout  the  group  in  small  patches,  and 
isolated  specimens  are  frequently  noticed  around  public 
and  private  houses.    It  is  propagated  by  offshoots.    The 
highest  shrubs  are  about  six  feet,  and  their  stem  from 
an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter ;  the  leaves 
are  cordate,  and  either  green   or  more  or  less  tinged 
with  purple.     The  root  and  extreme  base  of  the  stem 
are  the  parts  of  which  the  drink  is  prepared ;  they  are 
preferred  fresh,  but  are  nearly  as  good  when  dry.    After 
the  roots  have  been  dug  up,  they  are  placed  in  an  airy 
spot,  generally  on  a  stage  over  the  fireplace.   In  order  to 
prepare  the  beverage,  it  is  necessary  to  reduce  the  roots 


NATIONAL    BEVERAGES.  325 

to  minute  particles,  which,  according  to  regular  Polyne- 
sian usage,  is  done  by  chewing — a  task  in  Fiji  devolving 
upon  lads  who  have  sound  teeth,  and  occupy  a  certain 
social  rank  towards  the  man  for  whom  they  perform  the 
office.  In  other  Polynesian  islands  it  is  done  by  young 
women.  When  a  sufficient  quantity  has  been  chewed, 
the  masticated  mass  is  placed  in  a  bowl  made  of  the 
wood  of  the  Vesi  (Afzelia  Ujuga,  A.  Gray),  and  having 
four  legs  and  a  piece  of  rope  attached  to  it,  which,  when 
the  bowl  is  brought  in,  is  thrown  towards  the  greatest 
man  present,  and  guides  those  who  happen  to  arrive  in 
ignorance  of  his  rank  in  observing  the  ceremonies  re- 
quired from  them.  Some  Fijians  make  it  a  point  to 
chew  as  great  a  quantity  as  possible  in  one  mouthful ; 
and  there  is  a  man  of  this  sort  at  Verata,  famous  all 
over  the  group,  who  is  able  within  three  hours'  time  to 
chew  a  single  mouthful  sufficient  to  intoxicate  fifty  per- 
sons. Fortunately,  Kava,  unlike  distilled  spirits,  does  not 
render  people  quarrelsome;  and  Fijians,  on  extolling 
the  virtues  of  their  national  beverage,  often  make  this 
observation.  On  public  occasions,  or  at  convivial  meet- 
ings, when  the  chewed  root  is  placed  in  the  bowl,  and 
water  is  poured  on,  the  whole  assembly  begin  to  chant 
appropriate  songs,  accompanied  by  the  beating  of  little 
sticks  on  a  bamboo  or  log  of  wood,  and  this  is  kept  up 
until  the  dregs  of  the  root  have  been  strained  through 
the  fibres  of  the  Vau  (different  species  of  Paritium\  or 
in  the  absence  of  them,  through  fern  leaves.  When  the 
beverage  is  ready,  the  chant  is  discontinued,  and  the 
priest  or  any  head  man  present  pronounces  a  toast  or 
prayer  over  it,  after  which  the  first  cup — a  cocoa-nut 


326  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

shell — is  handed  to  the  person  of  highest  rank  in  the 
company.  The  Kava  is  taken  out  of  the  bowl  by  means 
in  the  strainer,  which  is  dipped  into  the  fluid,  and  then 
squeezed.  Although  both  bowl  and  cup  are  always  care- 
fully dried  and  cleaned  after  having  been  used,  a  crust 
invariably  forms  at  the  inside,  giving  them  the  appear- 
ance as  if  they  had  been  enamelled.  This  crust,  after  a 
lapse  of  three  or  four  months,  is  carefully  scraped  off, 
and  makes  the  strongest  of  all  Yaqona.  The  beverage 
has  the  look  of  coffee  with  plenty  of  milk  in  it,  and  an 
aromatic  slightly  pungent  taste,  which,  when  once  ac- 
quired, must,  like  all  acquired  tastes,  be  perfectly  irre- 
sistible. Drunk  in  moderation,  it  has  probably  no  bad 
effect,  and  acts  upon  the  system  somewhat  like  betel-nut ; 
but  taken  in  excess,  it  generates  all  sorts  of  skin-diseases, 
and  weakens  the  eyesight.  Nearly  all  the  lower  class  of 
whites  in  the  Fiji  are  Kava  drinkers,  some  regular  drunk- 
ards ;  and  it  is  generally  accepted  as  a  proof  of  a  man 
belonging  to  the  more  respectable  portion  of  society  if 
he  refrains  from  touching  this  filthy  preparation.  Most 
of  these  whites  prefer  it  prepared  in  true  Polynesian 
fashion  ;  only  a  few  have  the  root  rasped  on  a  grater — a 
process  said  to  impair  the  flavour  considerably.  Roots  of 
Yaqona  are  presented  to  visitors  as  tokens  of  goodwill, 
and  to  the  temples  as  offerings.  I  have  also  seen  the 
leaves  of  the  plant  hung  up  in  the  temples,  together 
with  the  little  twigs  of  the  Waltlieria  Americana.  As 
we  in  Europe,  when  engaging  soldiers  or  servants,  hand 
a  small  coin  in  proof  that  the  bargain  has  been  ac- 
cepted, so  the  Fijians,  when  effecting  a  bargain  or  sale 
give  or  take  a  small  deposit,  which  is  called  the  "  Ya- 


NATIONAL   BEVERAGES.  327 

qona,"  and  either  consists  of  a  piece  of  Kava-root,  or 
any  other  article  that  may  prove  acceptable.  Drinking 
Kava  being  peculiar  to  all  Polynesian  tribes,  Thomson 
(4  Story  of  New  Zealand:'  London,  1859:  vol.  i.  p.  193) 
expresses  surprise  that  the  Maoris  of  New  Zealand 
should  have  forgotten  the  art  of  extracting  it,  "  seeing 
that  the  plant  (Piper  methysticum,  Forst.)  grows  abun- 
dantly in  the  country."  But  the  Piper  found  wild  in 
New  Zealand  is  not,  as  Dr.  Thomson  supposes,  the  Piper 
methysticum,  Forst.  (the  true  Kava  plant),  but  the  Piper 
excelsum  of  the  same  author  (Macropiper  eoccelsum,  Miq.). 
Hence  it  can  form  no  surprise  that  a  genuine  Poly- 
nesian people  should  have  forgotten  the  art  alluded  to 
during  the  long  lapse  of  time  intervening  between  their 
departure  from  Samoa  and  their  discovery  by  Europeans. 
They  have,  however,  preserved  the  name  of  "  Kava," 
which  they  have  transferred  to  their  indigenous  pepper 
(Kawa-kawa),  and  also  to  a  beverage  (Kawa)  made  of 
the  fruits  of  the  Coriaria  myrtifolia,  Linn.,  by  them 
termed  Tupa-Kihi,  Tutu,  or  Puhou.  Kawa-kawa,  ac- 
cording to  Colenso's  statement  in  J.  D.  Hooker's  '  Flora 
of  New  Zealand,'  signifies  "piquant."  Thomson  at- 
tempts to  trace  Kawa,  Kava,  or  Ava,  as  the  various  Poly- 
nesian dialects  have  it,  to  the  Sanscrit  "  Kasya,"  which 
seems  to  be  a  general  term  for  intoxicating  beverages.* 

*  The  medicinal  properties  of  the  Kara-plant  have  of  late  claimed  some 
attention.  In  the  French  translation  of  Golding  Bird's  work  on  Calculous  Af- 
fections, Dr. O'Rorke  has  inserted,  amongst  others,  the  following  remarks: — 
"  The  Xava-plant  is  the  most  powerful  sudorific  in  existence,  and  its 
stimulant  qualities  render  it  applicable  in  those  cases  in  which  colchicum 
is  prescribed.  .  .  .  The  intoxication  it  produces  is  not  like  that  caused  by 
spirituous  liquors,  but  rather  induces  a  placid  tranquillity,  accompanied  by 


328  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Besides  their  favourite  yaqona,  the  Fijians  drink  the 
natural  liquor  of  young  cocoa-nuts ;  but  they  had  ab- 
solutely no  other  beverage  save  water.  They  were  igno- 
rant of  extracting  an  intoxicating  drink  from  the  sac- 
charine roots  of  their  Masawe  (Dracaena  terminally 
Linn.),  so  much  employed  for  that  purpose  by  the  Ha- 
waiians  and  other  Polynesians.  They  were  even  stran- 
gers to  infusions  and  decoctions  made  of  aromatic  leaves, 
and  the  so-called  Fijian  tea,  vernacularly  termed  Ma- 
tadra,  was  never  used  by  the  natives.  The  European 
settlers,  wrho  first  employed  it  as  a  substitute  for  Chi- 
nese tea,  by  drying  and  then  boiling  the  leaves,  brought 
the  custom  from  the  eastern  groups  of  Polynesia.  The 
Matadra  (Missiessya  corymbidosa,  Wedcl.)  is  a  straggling 
shrub,  belonging  to  the  nettle-tribe,  having  slender 
branches,  and  generally  growing  as  underwood.  It  at- 
tains from  six  to  eight  feet  in  height,  has  leaves  some- 
what resembling  those  of  the  elm,  but  white  underneath, 
and  minute  flowers  and  fruits  arranged  in  corymbs. 

incoherent  dreams.  Kava  is  as  powerful  in  its  therapeutic  action  as  lig- 
num vitse  or  guaiacum,  sarsaparilla,  etc.,  and  the  islanders  use  it  as  a 
specific  against  the  diseases  brought  over  to  them  by  foreign  vessels.  On 
the  other  hand,  this  drug,  used  to  excess  as  an  intoxicating  agent,  over 
excites  the  skin  by  its  sudorific  effects,  and  eventually  even  occasions 
elephantiasis.  .  .  .  The  chemical  constituents,  according  to  Gobley,  are  as 
follows: — carbon,  62'03 ;  hydrogen^  6'10 ;  nitrogen,  1*12;  oxygen,  3O75. 
It  contains  26  per  cent,  of  cellulose,  49  per  cent,  of  starch,  one  of  methys- 
ticine,  a  crystallizable  principle,  two  of  an  acrid  resin  called  Kawine,  and 
about  7  per  cent,  of  gum,  iron,  and  magnesia,  and  a  few  substances  of 
minor  importance."  In  a  paper,  which  M.  Cuzent  laid  before  the  Academy 
of  Sciences  at  Paris,  in  1861,  the  chemical  composition  of  the  Kavahine 
(thus  it  is  spelt  in-  the  report  at  hand),  the  active  crystallizable  principle 
of  the  Kava,  identical,  it  would  seem,  with  what  Gobley  terms  "  Me- 
thysticine,"  is  thus  given  :  no  nitrogen,  66  per  cent,  of  carbon,  6  of  hydro- 
gen, and  28  of  oxygen. 


NATIONAL   BEVERAGES.  329 

Some  people  have  drank  a  decoction  of  its  leaves  with- 
out perceiving  it  to  be  different  from  Chinese  tea. 

There  is  another  negative  fact  of  singular  ethnolo- 
gical importance  connected  with  this  subject.  Neither 
the  Fijians  nor  the  Polynesians  in  general  were  ac- 
quainted with  the  art  of  extracting  toddy  from  the  un- 
expanded  flowers  of  the  cocoa-nut  palm.  It  is  only 
in  quite  recent  times  that  Europeans  have  instructed 
them  in  it.  This,  in  a  great  measure,  seems  to  strengthen 
the  position  of  those  who  maintain  that  the  Polyne- 
sians did  not  come  from  the  Malayan  or  any  other  dis- 
trict of  Asia ;  that  they  would  never  have  migrated  con- 
trary to  the  direction  of  the  prevailing  trade-winds  ;  and 
that  the  identity  of  certain  Malayan  and  Polynesian 
words,  thought  to  be  an  overpowering  argument  in 
favour  of  that  exodus,  cuts  both  ways,  and  may  be  made 
to  prove  either  that  these  words  came  from  purely  Ma- 
layan to  Polynesian  districts,  or  from  a  genuine  Polyne- 
sian to  a  Malayan ;  and  exactly  the  same  dilemma  is 
encountered  in  dealing  with  the  geographical  distribu- 
tion of  Polynesian  plants  and  animals.  Passionately 
fond  as  are  the  Polynesians  of  intoxicating  drinks,  they 
would  never  have  discontinued  making  toddy,  if  they 
had  ever  known  the  way  to  make  it,  especially  as  a  tree 
yielding  it,  the  cocoa-nut  palm,  is  common  throughout 
Polynesia.  In  order  to  reconcile  this  fact  with  the  hy- 
pothesis that  the  Polynesians  are  of  Malayan  origin,  it 
might  be  assumed  that  they  left  the  cradle  of  their 
race  before  the  extraction  of  toddy  from  the  cocoa-nut 
tree,  or  even  the  cocoa-nut  tree  itself,  was  known  there. 
Tradition,  historical  evidence,  and  observed  facts,  all 


330  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

agree  in  showing  the  progression  of  the  cocoa-nut  tree 
from  west  to  east.  Numerous  cocoa-nuts  are  annually 
drifted  on  the  eastern  shores  of  New  Holland,  where 
they  often  germinate  and  grow,  until  the  seedlings  are 
killed  by  the  low  temperature  of  the  winter  months. 
Ceylon,  now  covered  with  immense  forests  of  cocoa-nut 
palms,  has  a  distinct  tradition  that  at  one  time  the  tree 
was  unknown  there,  and  there  is  even  a  statue  not  far 
from  Galle,  recording  the  event  of  its  becoming  known 
there  ;  whilst  the  oldest  chronicles  of  the  island,  known 
by  the  name  of  the  Marawansa,  and  the  historical  value 
of  which  is  now  fully  admitted,  are  absolutely  silent  on 
everything  relating  to  the  cocoa-nut,  while  they  never 
fail  to  record  every  accession  to  the  plantations  of  other 
fruit-trees  made  by  the  native  princes.  This  seems  to 
prove  that  the  cocoa-nut  was  not  always  known,  and 
that  it  would  have  much  sooner  found  its  way  there 
than  it  did  if  it  had  been  indigenous  to  India  Proper ; 
whilst  the  fact  that  all  other  species  comprising  the 
genus  Cocos  are  strictly  confined  to  the  interior  of  tropi- 
cal America,  and  only  this  one  species  (C.  nucifera.  Linn.), 
a  sea-side  plant,  unaffected  by  drifting  on  sea-water,  is 
spread  over  Polynesia  and  the  Old  World  generally, 
offers  another  important  consideration.  But  even  if  the 
introduction  of  the  cocoa-nut  tree  to  Asia  took  place 
after  the  assumed  departure  of  the  Polynesian  tribes,  the 
latter  must  have  been  well  acquainted  with  the  art  of 
making  toddy,  as  there  is  a  number  of  palms  in  Asia, 
about  the  true  native  country  of  which  there  is  no  doubt 
whatever,  yielding  toddy — a  beverage  of  so  ancient  a 
date  that  even  the  oldest  language  of  that  continent  has 


NATIONAL   BEVERAGES.  331 

a  name  for  it, — toddy  being  only  a  corruption  of  the 
Sanskrit  word  "  tade."  Had,  therefore,  the  Polynesians 
once  known  the  process  by  which  they  might  have  ob- 
tained, not  only  a  strong  liquor,  but  also  sugar,  vinegar, 
and  yeast,  they  would  have  operated  as  readily  upon 
the  cocoa-nut  tree  in  the  South  Sea,  as  the  people  of 
Southern  Asia  did  when  the  cocoa-nut  tree  came  to  their 
shores.  Taking,  probably,  its  departure  from  Western 
America,  the  cocoa-nut  was  drifted  by  prevailing  winds 
to  Polynesia,  where  its  toddy-yielding  properties  were 
not  suspected ;  thence  it  drifted  on  towards  Asia,  and 
there  was  perceived  to  be  as  capable  of  yielding  a  fa- 
vourite beverage  as  the  Palmyra,  the  wild  date-tree, 
the  Arenga  saccharifera,  and  the  various  species  of  the 
singular  Caryota  palms  had  done  from  time  immemorial. 


332 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

VEGETABLE    POISONS. — MEDICINAL  PLANTS. — SCENTS    AND    PEEFUMES. — MA- 
TERIALS     FOE     CLOTHING. MATS      AND     BASKETS. FIBRES     USED     FOR 

CORDAGE. TIMBER. — PALMS. — ORNAMENTAL    PLANTS. MISCELLANEOUS. 

VEGETABLE  poisons  are  extracted  by  certain  natives  who 
make  a  profound  secret  of  their  art,  and  it  would  re- 
quire an  intimacy  of  years  before  any  reliable  infor- 
mation on  this  point  could  be  elicited.  I  was  ready 
to  make  presents  of  hatchets,  knives,  and  other  valued 
articles,  to  get  some  insight  into  their  toxicology ;  but 
Mr.  Pritchard  begged  me  to  abstain  :  the  natives  would 
take  alarm  at  my  inquiry,  and  if  perchance  any  great 
man  should  be  taken  ill  or  die  during  my  visit,  it  would 
at  once  be  said  that  1,  availing  myself  of  the  knowledge 
acquired,  had  administered  a  fatal  dose— a  most  unde- 
sirable charge  in  the  present  state  of  political  ferment. 
The  Fijians  have  both  slow  and  acute  poisons,  and  when 
a  man  is  gradually  sinking  (often,  no  doubt,  from  a  very 
different  cause),  it  is  readily  believed  that  "  he  has  had 
a  dose/'  He  will  then  seek  the  advice  of  some  skilful 
native  physician,  if  possible  one  at  Bau,  the  capital,  to 
administer  the  necessary  antidotes,  and  restore  him  to 
health.  However,  very  often  there  is  no  time  to  inter- 
pose between  the  fatal  dose  and  its  consequences,  the 


VEGETABLE    POISONS.  333 

effect  being  almost  instantaneous.  When,  in  October, 
1860,  I  revisited  Cakaudrove,  a  poisoner  had  just  been 
strangled  by  orders  of  the  ruling  chief;  he  having  been 
detected  in  putting  a  certain  drug  into  a  cigarette,  which 
proved  fatal  to  the  smoker.  The  poisoner,  on  finding 
himself  condemned  to  die,  not  only  pleaded  guilty  to 
this  crime,  but  also  confessed  to  having  been  instru- 
mental in  bringing  about  the  death  of  no  less  than  three 
hundred  people,  all  victims  to  his  infamous  art. 

There  being  no  chance  of  gaining  any  direct  informa- 
tion about  the  more  subtle  poisons  from  the  lips  of  the 
natives  themselves,  an  examination  of  all  plants  possess- 
ing narcotic  properties  would  supply  the  deficiency,  if  it 
were  not  for  an  anomaly,  as  yet  insufficiently  explained, 
that  certain  species  shunned  as  poisonous  in  one  country, 
are  eaten  with  impunity  in  another.  There  are  mush- 
rooms which  in  England  are  absolutely  noxious,  and  on 
the  Continent  wholesome  food.  In  Fiji,  the  leaves  of 
the  Boro  yaloka  ni  gato  (Solanum  oleraceum,  Dun.), 
a  spiny  species,  closely  allied  to  Solatium  nigrwn.  Linn., 
and  those  of  the  Boro  dina  (Solatium  antliropophagorum, 
Seem.)  as  well  as  the  fruit  of  the  latter  and  that  of  the 
Bora  Sou  or  Sousou  (Solanum  repandum,  Forst),  are 
eaten  ;  the  latter  in  soups  or  with  yam.  I  was  in  some 
measure  prepared  for  this,  having  seen  quantities  of 
the  first-named  species,  as  well  as  another  nightshade 
(Solanum  nigrum.  Linn.),  exposed  for  sale  in  the  market 
of  Port  Louis,  Mauritius,  and  learnt  on  inquiry  that  they 
were  common  pot-herbs,  eaten  both  by  the  white  and 
coloured  population,  as  intimated  by  Bojer  in  his  Hortus 
Mauri tanus.  Stryclmos  colubrina,  Linn.,  is  met  with  in 


334  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

Viti  Levu,  but  I  have  not  been  able  to  learn  whether 
the  natives  are  aware  of  its  containing  strychnine.  A 
kind  of  Upas  tree  (Antiaris  Bennettii,  Seem.),  commonly 
termed  "  Mavu  ni  Toga,"  probably  because  it  has  been 
introduced  from  the  Tonga  islands,  was  formerly  planted 
about  heathen  temples,  and  is  even  now  to  be  found  in 
towns  and  villages.  It  is  a  middle-sized  tree,  with  a 
thick  crown  of  dark  foliage,  oblong  glossy  leaves,  and  a 
fleshy  fruit  of  the  size  of  an  apricot,  covered  with  a  vel- 
vety skin  of  a  most  beautiful  crimson  colour.  A  gum 
exuding  from  the  stem  and  branches  is  used  for  arrows. 
The  exact  nature  of  its  poisonous  properties  has  not 
yet  been  ascertained.  That  they  are  not  equal  to  those 
ascribed  to  the  true  Upas  tree  of  Java  (Antiaris  toxi- 
caria,  Leschen.)  is  proved  by  the  manner  in  which  the 
natives  handle  it ;  but  it  is  impossible  to  say  whether 
one  of  the  reasons  for  its  cultivation  near  temples,  and 
its  probable  introduction  from  Tonga,  may  not  be  found 
in  its  yielding  a  poison  of  which  the  heathen  priests 
may  have  occasionally  made  use.  Sir  E.  Home  gathered 
it  in  Wallis  Island,  and  Dr.  Bennett,  of  Sydney,  found 
it  cultivated  in  Tucopia  for  making  bark-cloth. 

Amongst  the  trees  most  dreaded  by  the  natives  on 
account  of  their  noxious  qualities,  the  Kau  Karo,  lite- 
rally itch-wood,  occupies  a  prominent  place,  and  seems 
to  act  somewhat  like  Ehus  venenata  or  Semecarpus  Ana- 
cardium.  Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself  first  heard  of  its 
existence  during  our  visit  to  the  southern  shores  of 
Viti  Levu,  in  July,  1860,  and  on  the  banks  of  a  river 
were  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  specimens  of  the  tree, 
proving  it  to  be  the  Oncocarpus  Vitiensis,  A.  Gray  = 


VEGETABLE    POISONS.  335 

Ehus  atrum,  Forst,  an  Anacardiaceous  plant.  The  tree, 
when  fully  developed,  is  about  sixty  feet  high,  bearing 
large  oblong  leaves  and  a  very  curious  corky  fruit,  some- 
what resembling  the  seed  of  the  walnut.  On  handling 
the  specimens  a  drop  of  the  juice  fell  on  the  hand  of 
one  of  our  party,  and  instantly  produced  a  pain  equal  to 
that  caused  by  contact  with  a  redhot  poker.  Mr.  E.  A. 
Egerstrom,  a  Swedish  gentleman,  residing  on  the  island 
of  Naigani,  had  been  still  more  unfortunate  in  his  ac- 
cidental contact  with  the  Kau  Karo ;  and  on  visiting 
his  hospitable  roof  on  the  2nd  July,  1860,  he  was  just 
recovering  from  the  effects  of  the  accident.  Having  de- 
sired a  native  carpenter  to  procure  him  a  spar  suitable 
for  a  flag-staff,  one  was  brought  of  Kau  Karo,  about 
forty-two  feet  long,  and  twenty-two  inches  in  girth  at 
the  foot,  having  a  white  wood  and  a  green  bark,  not 
unlike  that  of  the  Van  dina  (Paritium  tiliaceum,  Juss.) 
and  light-coloured  when  peeled  off.  Ignorant  of  the 
poisonous  properties  of  the  tree,  Mr.  Egerstrom  himself 
peeled  off  the  bark,  and  found  the  sap  beneath  it  very 
plentiful.  "  In  the  evening," — I  quote  Mr.  Egerstrom's 
own  words,  in  a  letter  to  the  British  Consul, — "  I  was 
troubled  with  considerable  itching  about  my  legs,  and 
every  part  of  my  body  which  had  come  in  contact  with 
the  spar,  especially  about  the  abdomen  and  lower  parts, 
having  sat  across  the  tree  when  barking  it.  All  the  parts 
affected  became  red  and  inflamed,  breaking  out  in  innu- 
merable pustules,  which  emitted  a  yellowish  matter  with 
a  nauseous  smell.  The  itching  was  exceedingly  painful 
and  irritating,  and  my  arms  having  been  bare  when  ope- 
rating upon  the  tree,  also  became  inflamed  and  broke 


336  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

out  as  already  described.  The  neighbouring  natives, 
who  came  to  watch  my  proceedings,  now  warned  me,  too 
late,  not  to  touch  the  tree,  as  it  was  a  poisonous  one,  and 
advised  my  keeping  quiet  and  not  to  touch  or  scratch 
the  parts  inflamed.  This  advice,  however,  I  could  not 
follow,  the  irritation  for  several  days  being  excessive. 
I  employed  no  remedy,  but  bathed  daily,  as  usual,  in 
fresh  water,  although  advised  to  the  contrary,  but  did 
not  get  rid  of  the  injurious  effect  of  the  itch-wood  for 
nearly  two  months." 

Another  tree,  the  contact  with  which  is  avoided  by 
the  Fijians,  is  the  Sinu  gaga  (Exccecaria  Agallocha, 
Linn.)  or  poison  Sinu,  called  so  in  contradistinction  to 
the  Sinu  damu  (Leucosmia  Burnettiana,  Bth.)  and  the 
Sinu  mataivi  ( Wikstrcemia  Indica,  C.  A.  Meyer),  both  of 
which,  like  the  Sinu  gaga,  are  littoral  plants.  The  Sinu 
gaga  is  found  in  mangrove  swamps  or  on  dry  ground, 
just  above  high- water  mark.  It  is  sixty  feet  high,  has 
a  glossy  foliage,  oblong  leaves,  and  minute  green  flowers 
arranged  in  catkins.  It  is  difficult  to  exterminate,  for 
unless  the  stumps  are  taken  up,  innumerable  young 
shoots  spring  up  the  moment  the  main  stem  is  felled. 
When  the  tree  is  wounded  abundance  of  white  milky 
juice  flows,  which  causes  a  burning  effect  on  coming  in 
contact  with  the  skin.  Some  natives,  however,  can 
handle  this  poisonous  juice  with  perfect  impunity  (era 
sinu  dranu),  analogous  to  what  I  witnessed  in  the  Man- 
zanillo  or  Manchineel  tree  of  tropical  America,  the  sap 
of  which  caused  me  the  greatest  agony  after  it  had  acci- 
dentally entered  my  eyes,  and  never  raised  even  as  much 
as  a  blister  on  being  allowed  to  dry  on  the  hands  of  a 


VEGETABLE   POISONS.  337 

travelling  companion.  The  smoke  of  the  burning  wood 
affects  the  eyes  with  intolerable  pain,  exactly  as  does 
that  of  the  manchineel  tree,  of  which  I  gave  an  instance 
in  the  '  Narrative  of  the  Voyage  of  H.M.S.  Herald,' 
vol.  i.  p.  141, — one  of  our  boat's  crew  becoming  blind 
for  several  days  after  lighting  a  fire  with  manchineel 
wood.  None,  save  those  who  have  been  sufferers  from 
the  effect  of  these  poisons,  can  form  any  adequate  con- 
ception of  the  agonies  endured,  and  the  courage  dis- 
played, by  a  Fijian  who  voluntarily  submits  himself  to 
being  cured  of  leprosy  by  the  smoke  of  the  Sinu  gaga 
wood.  The  Rev.  W.  Moore,  of  Rewa,  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  a  young  man  of  the  name  of  Wiliami 
Lawaleou,  who  underwent  the  process  of  being  smoked. 
Mr.  Moore  gave  me  the  full  particulars  of  this  remark- 
able case  when  I  was  his  guest  in  1860,  and  he  has  also 
published  a  full  account  of  it  in  '  The  Wesleyan  Mis- 
sionary Notices,'  Sydney,  1859,  p.  157.  After  stating 
that  he  knew  Wiliami  as  a  fine  healthy  young  fellow,  Mr. 
Moore  was  surprised  to  find  him  one  day  so  much  altered 
by  the  effects  of  leprosy.  Some  time  after  he  again  met 
him  full  of  health,  and  on  inquiry  learnt  the  treatment 
adopted  to  bring  about  this  change.  Taken  to  a  small 
empty  house,  the  leper  is  stripped  of  every  article  of 
clothing,  his  body  rubbed  all  over  with  green  leaves,  and 
then  buried  in  them.  A  small  fire  is  then  kindled,  and  a 
few  pieces  of  the  Sinu  gaga  laid  on  it.  As  soon  as  the 
thick  black  smoke  begins  to  ascend  the  leper  is  bound 
hand  and  foot,  a  rope  fastened  to  his  heels,  by  means 
of  which  he  is  drawn  up  over  the  fire,  so  that  his  head 
is  some  fifteen  inches  from  the  ground,  in  the  midst  of 

z 


338  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

the  poisonous  smoke.  The  door  is  then  closed  and  his 
friends  retire  a  little  distance,  whilst  the  poor  sufferer 
is  left  to  cry  and  shout  and  plead  from  the  midst  of  the 
suffocating  stream ;  but  he  is  often  allowed  to  remain 
for  hours,  and  finally  faints  away.  When  he  is  thought 
sufficiently  smoked  the  fire  is  removed,  the  slime  scraped 
from  the  body,  and  deep  gashes  cut  into  the  skin  until 
the  blood  flows  freely.  The  leper  is  now  taken  down 
and  laid  on  his  mats  to  await  the  result.  In  some  cases 
death — in  many,  life  and  health.  Wiliami  had  under- 
gone this  fearful  process.  He  had  taken  some  of  the 
youths  of  the  place,  and  on  his  way  to  the  smoking- 
house  told  them  his  pitiable  condition,  his  shame  as  an 
outcast,  and  his  willingness  to  suffer  anything  to  obtain 
a  cure,  and  much  would  depend  on  their  firmness.  They 
were  not  to  be  moved  by  his  groans  and  cries,  and  for 
the  love  they  bore  him  he  begged  them  to  do  the  ope- 
ration well,  and  threatened  to  punish  them  if  they  per- 
formed it  only  half.  Imagine  the  scene  !  They  proceed 
to  the  lonely  house.  Wiliami's  companions,  as  much 
afraid  of  overdoing  as  underdoing  their  sad  task,  leave 
the  poor  leper  drawn  up  by  his  heels  in  the  midst  of  a 
thick  black  smoke  ;  they  retire  to  some  distance,  and 
presently  are  horrified  by  his  piteous  cries  and  groans. 
Some  weep,  some  run  home,  others  rush  into  the  smo- 
king-house  to  take  him  down ;  but,  with  Spartan-like 
endurance,  he  commands  them  not  to  terminate  his  suf- 
fering until  the  process  is  complete.  At  last  they  take 
him  down — he  is  faint  and  exhausted — the  operation 
has  been  successful.  Wiliami  is  no  longer  a  leper,  but 
again  walks  God's  earth  a  healthy  man. 


VEGETABLE   POISONS.  339 

The  materials  employed  by  the  natives  for  poisoning, 
or  rather  stupefying,  fish,  a  custom  as  prevalent  all  over 
Polynesia  as  it  is  amongst  the  Indians  of  America,  are 
the  square  fruit  of  the  Vutu  rakaraka  (Barringtonia  spe- 
ciosa,  Linn.)  and  the  stem  and  leaves  of  the  Duva  gaga 
(Derris  uliginosa,  Benth.),  both  plants  growing  in  abun- 
dance on  the  sea-beach,  just  above  high-water  mark.  As 
soon  as  these  materials, — pounded  to  render  them  more 
efficacious, — are  thrown  into  the  water,  or  drawn  through 
it  by  means  of  a  line  or  creeper  to  which  they  have  been 
attached,  the  fish  turn  on  their  back  and  appear  on  the 
surface.  They  are  perfectly  stupefied,  and  are  thus  easily 
taken  ;  but  they  soon  recover  their  lost  activity,  and  are 
believed  not  to  die  from  the  effects  of  the  treatment 
they  have  received. 

The  nettles, — those  mosquitoes  of  the  vegetable  king- 
dom, irritating  but  never  killing  as  they  do, — are  collec- 
tively termed  "  Salato" — a  name  also  including  those  ani- 
mals familiarly  known  as  sea-nettles.  There  are  two 
kinds.  The  Saloto  ni  coro  is  an  annual  weed  (Fleurya 
spicata,  Gaud.,  var.  interrupt^  Wedd.),  which  abounds 
about  towns  and  villages  (hence  the  specific  appellation 
of  "  ni  coro  ") ;  and  although  the  virulence  of  its  sting 
is  not  to  be  compared  with  that  of  our  European  nettles, 
the  natives  so  carefully  avoid  all  contact  with  it,  and  ran 
awray  in  such  fright  when  I  gathered  specimens  of  it  for 
the  herbarium,  that  one  is  tempted  to  fancy  their  skins 
more  keenly  affected  by  it  than  ours.  Still  greater  is 
their  dread  of  an  Urticaceous  tree  (Laportea,  sp.),  forty 
to  fifty  feet  high,  which  they  simply  term  "  Salato  " 
(nettle),  and  which,  when  touching  the  skin,  produces 

z  2 


340  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

a  burning  pain  similar  to  that  ascribed  to  the  sap  of 
Malawaci  (Trophis  anthropophagorum.  Seem.).  Milne 
(Hook.  Jour,  and  Kew  Misc.  ix.  p.  110)  states,  that  "if 
you  should  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  sting  yourself,  you 
will  feel  the  effects  for  some  months.  I  am  suffering  at 
this  moment,"  the  writer  continues,  "  from  an  accident 
which  occurred  a  month  ago.  There  is  no  eruption  ; 
but  it  is  most  painful  when  exposed  to  the  influence  of 
water." 

The  medicinal  plants  employed  by  the  natives  are  as 
difficult,  perhaps  more  difficult,  to  find  out  than  the 
poisonous  ones  used  for  illegal  purposes.  Those  who 
profess  to  be  acquainted  with  their  properties — often 
women,  and  answering  to  our  herbalists — cannot  be 
tempted  by  any  presents  to  disclose  secrets  which  to 
them  prove  a  lucrative  source  of  income  for  life.  It  is 
only  the  virtues  of  plants  generally  known  that  a  casual 
inquirer  has  any  chance  of  learning.  The  high  estima- 
tion in  which  the  oil  of  the  Dilo  (Calophyllum  inophyl- 
lum,  Linn.)  is  held  by  the  whole- population,  as  an  effi- 
caceous  remedy  for  rheumatism  and  other  pains,  has 
been  mentioned  in  another  place.  The  leaves  of  the 
Kura  (Morinda  citrifolia,  Linn.),  a  middle-sized  tree, 
with  shining  leaves  and  white  flowers,  not  unlike  those 
of  the  coffee-shrub,  are  heated  by  passing  them  over 
flame,  and  their  juice  squeezed  into  ulcers,  whilst  the 
leaves  themselves  are  put  on  the  wound  as  a  kind  of 
bandage.  The  bark  of  the  Danidani  (Panax  fruticosum, 
Linn.),  a  shrub  about  eight  feet  high,  and  cultivated 
about  the  native  houses  on  account  of  its  deeply-cut, 
ornamental  foliage,  is  scraped  off,  and  its  juice  taken 


MEDICINAL   PLANTS.  341 

as  a  remedy  for  macake,  the  thrush — ulcerated  tongue 
and  throat.  The  properties  of  the  Sarsaparilla  (Smilax 
sp.),  as  a  means  of  purifying  the  blood,  are  well  known. 
The  creeper  is  found  throughout  the  group,  especially 
on  land  that  has  at  one  time  been  cleared,  and  might 
be  gathered  in  quantities  if  there  were  any  demand 
for  it.  In  the  London  market  it  wTould  at  present  be 
unsaleable.  It  belongs  to  that  section  of  sarsaparillas 
distinguished  by  pharmacologists  as  the  "  non-mealy," 
the  most  valued  representative  of  which  is  the  Jamaica 
sort.  Moreover,  it  has  no  "beard,"  or  little  rootlets 
The  natives  of  Ovalau,  Viti  Levu,  and  Vanua  Levu, 
name  it  Kadragi  and  Wa  rusi ;  those  of  Kadavu,  "  Na 
kau  wa,"  literally,  "  the  woody  creeper."  I  met  with  it 
years  ago  in  the  Hawaiian  group ;  it  is  said  to  be  also 
common  in  the  Samoan  and  Tongan  groups,  and  pre- 
pared sarsaparilla  occasionally  imported  to  the  two  last 
mentioned  has  found  no  market,  the  indigenous  being 
preferred  to  the  foreign  production.  Curious  to  add,  in 
Fiji  it  is  not,  as  with  us,  the  rhizome  that  is  used,  but 
the  leaves,  which  are  chewed,  put  in  water,  and  strained 
through  fibre,  like  the  Yaqona  or  Kava  (Piper  methys- 
ticum,  Forst.),  before  being  taken.  Strong  purgative 
properties  reside  in  the  Vasa  or  Eewa  (Cerbera  lactaria, 
Ham.),  a  sea-side  tree,  twenty-five  feet  high,  with  soft 
wood,  smooth  shining  leaves,  and  white  scented  flowers, 
used  for  necklaces  by  the  natives.  The  aromatic  leaves 
of  the  Laca  (Plectranthus  Forsteri,  Benth.),  a  weed 
abounding  in  cultivated  places,  and  having  purple  bracts 
supporting  pale  blue  flowers,  cure,  it  is  said,  "  bad  eyes  " 
and  headaches  on  being  brought  in  contact  with  the 


342  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

affected  parts.  It  is  also  recommended  for  coughs  and 
colds,  in  common  with  an  Acanthaceous  herb  inhabiting 
swamps  (Adenosma  triflora,  Nees),  which  shares  its  aro- 
matic properties.  The  people  of  Somosomo  declare 
that  the  leaves  of  the  Vulokaka  (Vitex  trifoliata,  Linn.), 
with  which  their  beach  is  thickly  lined,  when  reduced 
to  a  pulp  by  chewing,  are  employed  by  them  for  stuffing 
hollow  teeth.  The  leaves  and  bark  of  another  sea-side 
shrub,  the  Sinn  mataiavi  (Wikstroemia  Indica,  C.  A. 
Meyer),  are  employed  for  coughs,  the  bark  alone  for 
sores. 

Through  a  native  connected  with  the  Wesleyan  mis- 
sion, I  succeeded  in  purchasing  a  knowledge  of  the  drugs 
employed  about  Bau  for  procuring  abortion.  It  appears 
there  are  five  plants  which  furnish  them,  two  Mal- 
vacese,  a  Biittneriacea,  a  Convolvulacea,  and  a  Liliacea 
— namely,  the  Kalakalauaisoni  (Hibiscus  diversifolius, 
Jacq.),  a  spiny  shrub,  growing  in  swamps  ;  the  Waki- 
waki  (Hibiscus  [Abelmoschus\  moschatus,  Moench), 
closely  resembling  the  latter,  and  bearing  large  yellow 
flowers  like  it,  but  being  destitute  of  spines,  and  inva- 
riably preferring  dry  ground ;  the  Siti  ( Grewia  pruni- 
folia,  A.  Gray),  a  small  tree,  abounding  in  the  groups, 
and  producing  a  fruit  eaten  by  the  Fijian  bat ;  the  Wa- 
vuti  (Pharbitis  insularis,  Chois.),  a  blue-flowering  sea- 
side creeper,  and  the  Ti  Kula,  Te  Kula,  or  Va  sili  da- 
mudamu  (Dracaena  ferrea,  Linn.,  var.).  Of  the  Kalaka- 
lauaisoni, Wakiwaki,  and  the  Wa  buti,  the  juice  of  the 
leaves, — of  the  Ti  kula,  that  of  the  heart  of  the  leaves 
and  surface  of  the  trunk^  are  used.  The  Ti  kula  is  held 
to  be  the  most  efficacious,  and  only  administered  when 


SCENTS    AND    PERFUMES.  343 

the  other  drugs  have  failed  to  produce  their  murderous 
effects. 

Perfumes  for  scenting  cocoa-nut  oil,  which  the  na- 
tives profusely  apply  to  their  hair  and  naked  body,  are 
supplied  by  the  wood  of  the  Yasi  (Santalum  Yasi, 
Seem.),  the  bark  of  the  Macou  (Cinnamomum  sp.),  the 
flowers  of  the  Uci  (Evodia  hortensis,  Forst.),  the  Ma- 
kosoi  (Uvaria  odorata,  Lam.),  the  Balawa  (Pandanus 
odoratissimus,  Linn.)  and  the  Bua  (Fagrcea  Berteriana, 
A.  Gray),  and  the  fruit  of  the  Makita  (Parinarium 
laurinum,  A.  Gray),  and  the  Leba  (Eugenia  \Jambosa~] 
neurocalyx,  A.  Gray). 

The  Yasi  or  sandal-wood  (Santalum  Yasi,  Seem.)  is 
confined  to  the  south-western  parts  of  Vanua  Levu,  and 
formerly  abounded  near  Bua  or  Sandal-wood  Bay.  The 
high  estimation  in  which  it  was  held  by  the  Tonguese 
early  induced  them  to  undertake  regular  trading  voy- 
ages to  Fiji,  long  previous  to  those  attempted  by  our- 
selves. Mariner,  who  was  a  resident  in  Tonga  from 
the  year  1806  to  1810,  affords  us  a  tolerable  insight 
into  them  (J.  Martin's  Account  of  the  Natives  of  the 
Tonga  Islands :  London,  1817:  p.  319,  333),  in  narrating 
the  adventures  of  Cow  Mooala,  a  Tonguese  chief,  who 
had  been  about  fourteen  years  from  home,  and  had  ori- 
ginally set  out  on  a  sandal-wood  expedition.  Attempts 
had  been  made,  he  assures  us,  to  extend  the  range  of 
the  wood  by  cultivation,  both  in  Fiji  and  Tonga ;  but 
the  tree,  though  successfully  transplanted,  yielded  a 
produce  with  little  or  no  scent,  absolutely  useless  for 
the  purposes  for  which  it  was  required.  The  demand 
continuing,  and  the  article  becoming  scarcer  every  day, 


344  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

prices  went  up.  At  one  time  the  Fijians  would  give  a 
considerable  quantity  for  a  few  nails.  "But  now," 
Mariner  continues,  "  they  demand  axes  and  chisels,  and 
those,  too,  of  the  best  quality,  for  they  have  gradually 
become  judges  of  such  things :  whales'  teeth  are  also 
given  in  exchange  for  it.  The  chiefs  of  the  Fiji  is- 
lands very  seldom  oil  themselves,  and  consequently  re- 
quire very  little  of  this  wood,  the  principal  use  of  it 
being  to  scent  the  oil.  The  natives  of  the  Tonga  is- 
lands, however,  who  require  a  considerable  quantity  of 
it  for  the  above  purpose,  complain  heavily  of  its  scar- 
city ;  and  what  renders  the  matter  still  worse  for  others 
is,  that  the  Fiji  people,  demanding  a  greater  number  of 
axes  and  chisels  for  a  given  quantity  of  wood,  these  im- 
plements are  growing  very  scarce  at  the  Tonga  islands, 
and  plentiful  at  Fiji.  Before  the  Tonga  people  ac- 
quired iron  implements,  they  usually  gave  whales'  teeth, 
gnatoo  (bark  cloth)  mats  for  sails  and  platt ;  but  whales' 
teeth  are  exceedingly  scarce,  and  the  other  articles  are 
too  bulky  for  ready  exportation.  The  sting  of  the  fish 
called  sting-ray  was  also  occasionally  given ;  but  these 
stings,  which  they  use  for  the  points  of  spears,  are  by 
no  means  plentiful.  This  fish  is  found  in  the  greatest 
quantity  at  an  island  called  Ovoa,  which  lies  about 
midway  between  Vavau  and  Samoa.  Another  article  of 
exchange  is  a  peculiar  species  of  shell,  which  they  find 
only  at  Vavau,  and  is  also  scarce."  ^It  does  not  seem 
that  Europeans  engaged  in  the  sandal-wood  trade  until 
towards  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century,  when  it 
^  was  taken  up  by  Manila  vessels  for  shipment  to  China. 
However,  so  great  was  the  demand  for  this  article,  both 


SCENTS   AND    PERFUMES.  345 

in  the  Chinese  and  Polynesian  markets,  that  about  the 
year  1816  there  was  scarcely  enough  left  for  home 
consumption — several  thousand  tons  having  probably 
been  exported,  worth  in  China  from  £20  to  £30  a 
ton.  In  1840,  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition 
with  difficulty  obtained  a  few  specimens  for  the  her- 
barium. To  save  the  tree  from  utter  destruction  in 
the  islands,  the  Kev.  Mr.  Williams  planted  one  in  the 
garden  of  the  mission  station,  at  Bua,  which,  when  I 
visited  the  place,  in  1860,  was  in  full  vigour  and  bloom. 
When  sandal-wood  was  still  plentiful,  a  butcher's  knife 
was  usually  exchanged  for  ten  sticks  of  three  feet 
long.  At  present,  fancy  prices  are  readily  given  for  the 
little  that  now  and  then  turns  up.  In  1859,  Tui  Le- 
vuka,  chief  of  Ovalau,  had  nearly  half  a  ton  of  it  in 
his  possession,  but  that  seems  to  have  been  the  largest 
quantity  of  late  years  brought  together ;  a  year  later 
Mr.  Hennings,  a  German,  trading  in  Fiji,  could  only 
succeed  in  obtaining  a  few  pieces.  On  visiting  Bua, 
in  October,  1860,  a  log,  six  feet  long  and  two  or  three 
inches  in  diameter,  was  presented  to  me,  and  thought 
quite  a  valuable  gift  by  my  native  attendants.  The 
Yasi  has  very  much  the  appearance  of  a  .Myrtaceous 
plant,  and  the^ijiajis^who  possess  a  quick  eye  for  dis- 
cerning natural  affinities,  ^class  it  with  several  species 
of  Eugenia,  which  they  respectively  distinguish  as  Yasi 
ni  wai,  Yasi  dravu,  etc.  The  leaves  are  opposite  and  f 
lanceolate,  and  the  flowers  very  minute,  and  on  first 
opening  they  are  white,  but  gradually  change  to  pink, 
and  ultimately  to  a  brownish  purple.  The  fruit  is  in 
shape,  size,  and  colour  like  that  of  the  black  currant.  A 


346  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

The  wood  is  of  a  light-brown,  and  highly  charged  with 
aromatic  oil,  especially  in  the  central  portion  of  the 
stem  and  branches,  developed  in  the  highest  degree  in 
the  oldest  trees  and  near  the  root.  It  is  grated  on 
the  mushroom  coral  (Fungia)  and  mixed  with  cocoa- 
nut  oil  by  the  Fijians,  as  well  as  by  all  the  Polynesian 
tribes  who  are  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  possession  of 
it.  In  China,  the  larger  pieces  were  used  for  ornamental 
work,  and  the  sawdust  and  other  remnants  made  into 
joss-sticks,  burned  before  idols  and  images. 

The  bark  of  the  Macou,  as  it  is  termed  in  the  Bau 
dialect,  "  Mou  "  in  that  of  Kadavu,  and  "  Maiu  "  in  that 
of  Namosi,  is  a  kind  of  Cassia  bark,  which  may  prove 
of  commercial  importance,  and  is  used  by  the  Fijians 
for  scenting  cocoa-nut  oil.  The  tree  yielding  it — a  spe- 
cies of  Cinnamomum — is  about  thirty  feet  high,  four  to 
five  inches  in  diameter,  and  is  met  with  above  an  eleva- 
tion of  1500  feet,  in  dense  virgin  forests.  I  met  it  on 
Buke  Levu,  island  of  Kadavu,  and  on  Voma  peak,  Viti 
Levu ;  and  Mr.  Pritchard  received  fine  specimens  from 
the  island  of  Gau,  where  they  had  been  collected  by 
W.  Berwick,  a  coloured  man,  residing  there.  The  bark 
has  a  fine  aromatic  smell  and  flavour,  a  light-brown 
colour,  is  thicker  than  that  of  the  cinnamon  of  com- 
merce, and  resembles  some  of  the  laurineous  barks, 
such  as  the  Sintoc  and  Culilawang,  brought  from  the 
Moluccas.  In  Namosi  it  is  used  as  a  sudorific.  Unfor- 
tunately, I  did  not  see  the  tree  in  flower,  and  hence  am 
unable  to  determine  whether  the  "  buds  "  are  equal  to 
the  best  "  Cassia  buds  "  of  commerce.  The  resemblance 
of  the  Fijian  names  to  that  of  "  Massoy,"  given  to  a  fine 


SCENTS   AND    PERFUMES.  347 

quality  of  Cassia  bark,  from  New  Guinea,  deserves  in- 
vestigation. 

The  flowers  of  the  Uci  or  Sacasaca  (Evodia  hortensis, 
Forst.)  diffuse,  like  those  of  most  Diosmaceoe,  an  over- 
powering, rather  sickly  odour,  highly  esteemed  by  the 
natives,  but  only  appreciated  by  those  Europeans  who 
can  enj  oy  patchouly,  musk,  and  scents  of  a  similar  cate- 
gory. The  perfume  emitted  by  the  flowers  of  the  Ma- 
kosoi  (Uvaria  odorata,  Lam.)  and  of  the  Balawa  (Pan- 
danus  odomtissimus,  Linn.)  commands  a  greater  number 
of  European  admirers,  whilst  that  of  the  Bua  (Fagrcea 
Berteriana,  A.  Gray)  may  be  said  to  be  universally  in- 
haled with  delight.  The  Bua  blossoms  in  September 
and  October,  and  one  of  the  months  of  the  Fijian  ca- 
lendar is  occasionally  called  the  Vulai  Bua,  or  Bua 
month.  The  flowers,  or  rather  corollas,  are  gathered 
after  they  have  dropped  on  the  ground,  and  brought 
home  in  baskets.  They  are  tubular,  white,  and  fleshy, 
and  are  either  strung  into  necklaces,  which  retain  their 
delicious  and  powerful  perfume  long  after  they  are  dry, 
or  they  are  placed  while  still  fresh  in  cocoa-nut  oil,  in 
order  to  impart  scent  to  it.  Sanclal-wood  and  Bua 
flowers  are  often  put  into  the  same  vessel  of  oil.  The 
abundance  of  the  tree  (which  yields  a  hard,  white 
wood)  at  Sandal-wood  Bay  may  have  given  rise  to  its 
native  name  "  Bua," — a  form  of  "  Pua,"  by  which  the 
plant  is  known  in  the  Society  Islands. 

Another  perfume  largely  employed  in  scenting  oil  is 
furnished  by  the  Makita  (Parinarium  laurinum,  A. 
Gray),  a  tree  about  fifty  feet  high,  supplying  tough  spars 
for  canoes,  and  having  oblong  leathery  leaves,  formerly 


348  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

used  exclusively  in  thatching  heathen  temples,  but  now 
also  for  common  dwelling-houses.  The  flowers  are  small 
and  white,  slightly  tinged  with  purple,  and  the  fruit  has 
a  rough,  woody  outside,  of  a  light-brown  colour,  con- 
taining a  large  kernel,  which  possesses  a  scent  much 
esteemed  by  the  Fijians,  but  in  which  we  detect  no- 
thing remarkable  either  as  regards  strength  or  beauty. 
The  fruit  of  the  Leba  (Eugenia  \Jambosa\  neurocalyx, 
A.  Gray),  a  middle-sized  Myrtaceous  tree,  with  large 
flowers,  considering  the  natural  order  to  which  it  be- 
longs, has  much  more  to  recommend  it  to  the  notice  of 
Europeans.  It  ripens  about  September,  and  its  odour 
gravitates  between  that  of  the  apple  and  the  melon.  It 
is  roundish,  strongly  ribbed,  often  three  inches  long 
and  eight  inches  in  circumference,  of  a  dark  purple,  and 
contains  five  large  seeds,  of  an  angular  shape,  and  a 
beautiful  crimson  colour.  The  natives  wear  a  whole 
fruit,  or  part  of  it,  suspended  around  their  necks,  and 
also  use  it  for  scenting  cocoa-nut  oil. 

Materials  for  the  scanty  clothing  worn  by  the  Fijians 
are  readily  supplied  by  a  variety  of  plants,  foremost 
amongst  which  stands  the  Malo  or  Paper  Mulberry 
(Broussonetia  papyrifera,  Vent),  a  middle-sized  tree, 
with  rough  trilobed  leaves,  cultivated  all  over  Fiji.  On  the 
coast,  the  native  cloth  (Tapa*)  and  plaitings  are  gradually 
displaced  by  cheap  cotton  prints  introduced  by  foreign 
traders, — a  fathom  of  which  is  considered  enough  for  the 
entire  dress  of  a  man.  In  the  inland  heathen  districts  the 

*  Tapa  =  Kapa  of  some  dialects,  I  take  to  mean  originally  "  covering ;" 
Atap,  the  name  for  thatch  in  the  Indian  Archipelago,  doubtless  belongs  to 
the  same  set  of  words. 


MATERIALS  FOR  CLOTHING.  349 

boys  are  allowed  to  run  naked  until  they  have  attained 
the  age  of  puberty,  and  publicly  assumed  what  may  be 
termed  their  toga  virilis — a  narrow  strip  of  native  cloth 
(Malo)  passing  between  the  legs,  and  fastened  either  to 
a  waistband  of  string  or  to  a  girdle  formed  by  one  of 
the  ends  of  the  cloth  itself.  The  length  of  the  Tapa 
hanging  down  in  front  denotes  the  rank  of  the  wearer ; 
the  lower  classes  not  having  it  longer  than  is  absolutely 
necessary  for  the  purposes  of  securing  it  to  the  waist- 
band, whilst  the  chiefs  let  it  dangle  on  the  ground,  and 
when  incommoded  by  it  in  walking,  playfully  swing  it 
over  their  shoulder.  In  the  christianized  districts  of 
the  coast,  a  piece  of  Tapa,  at  least  two  yards  long  and 
one  yard  broad,  is  worn  around  the  loins,  and  distin- 
guished persons  envelope  their  body  in  pieces  many 
yards  long,  and  allow  long  trains  to  drag  after  them  on 
the  ground.  A  fine  kind  of  Tapa  (Sala)  is  worn  in  the 
shape  of  a  turban  by  those  who  still  adhere  to  the  old 
custom  of  letting  their  hair  grow  long.  From  a  laud- 
able desire  to  promote  cleanliness  the  missionaries  have 
pronounced  against  long  hair  and  the  use  of  the  Sala, 
but  in  doing  so  they  deprived  the  natives  of  a  capital 
protection  against  the  sun ;  the  immense  mass  of  hair 
curled  and  frizzled  to  make  it  stand  off  many  inches, 
and  covered  by  a  piece  of  snow-white  Tapa,  must  have 
kept  the  head  cool.  Now  most  of  the  Christian  natives 
move  about  without  any  covering  for  their  head,  and 
with  their  hair  cut  short,  which,  in  a  tropical  climate, 
cannot  improve  their  intellect.  The  abolition  of  the 
old  custom  might  have  proved  more  beneficial  if  imme- 
diately followed  by  the  institution  of  some  kind  of  head- 


350  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

dress.     The  manufacture  of  native  cloth  is  entirely  left 
to  women  of  places  not  inhabited  by  great  chiefs,  pro- 
bably because  the  noise  caused  by  the  beating  out  of 
the  cloth  is  disliked  by  courtly  ears.     The  rhythm  of 
Tapa-beating  imparts  therefore  as  thoroughly  a  country 
air  to  a  place  in  Fiji  as  that  of  threshing  corn  does  to 
our  European  villages.    The  Masi  tree  is  propagated  by 
cuttings,  and  grown  about  two   or  three  feet  apart,  in 
plantations  resembling  nurseries.     For  the  purposes  of 
making  cloth  it  is  not  allowed  to  become  higher  than 
about  twelve  feet,  and  about  one  inch  in  diameter.  The 
bark,  taken  off  in  as  long  strips  as  possible,  is  steeped 
in  water,  scraped  with  a  conch  shell,  and  then  mace- 
rated.    In  this  state  it  is  placed  on  a  log  of  wood,  and 
beaten  with  a  mallet  (Ike),  three  sides  of  which  have 
longitudinal  grooves,  and  the  fourth  a  plain  surface. 
Two  strips  of  Tapa  are  always  beaten  into  one  with  the 
view  of  strengthening  the  fibres — an  operation  increas- 
ing the  width  of  the  cloth  at  the  expense  of  its  length. 
It  is  easy  to  join  pieces  together,  the  sap  of  the  fibres 
being  slightly  glutinous ;    and   in  order  to  make  the 
junction  as  perfect  and  durable  as  possible,  a  paste  is 
prepared  of  arrowroot,  or  a  glue  of  the  viscid  berries 
of  the  Tou  (Cordia  Sprengelii,  De  Cand.).     I  have  seen 
pieces  of  native  cloth,  intended  for  mosquito  curtains 
and  screens,  which  were  nearly  one  hundred  feet  long 
and  thirty  feet  broad.     Most  of  the  cloth  worn  is  pure 
white,  being  bleached  in  the  sun  as  we  bleach  linen  ; 
but  printed  Tapa  is  also,  though  not  so  frequently,  seen, 
whilst  that  used  for  curtains  is  always  coloured.     Their 
mode  of  printing  is  by  means  of  raised  forms  of  little 


MATERIALS  FOR  CLOTHING.  351 

strips  of  bamboo,  on  which  the  colour  is  placed,  and  the 
tops  pressed ;  indeed,  the  fundamental  principle  is  the 
same  as  that  of  our  printing  books,  the  little  strips  of 
bamboo  standing  in  the  place  of  our  types.  The  chief 
dye  employed  is  the  juice  of  the  Lauci  (Aleurites  triloba, 
Forst.),  and  the  pattern,  though  rudely  executed,  often 
displays  much  taste.  It  is  stated  that  in  times  when  the 
Malo  plantations  have  failed  to  produce  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  raw  material,  recourse  is  had  to  the  Baka 
(Ficus  sp.) ;  but  this  is  only  a  makeshift,  whilst  the  bark 
of  the  Breadfruit-tree  seems  never  to  be  resorted  to  as 
in  other  parts  of  Polynesia. 

When  the  men  have  no  native  cloth  of  any  sort,  they 
make  a  dress  by  splitting  a  cocoa-nut  or  plantain  leaf 
in  halves,  and  tying  one  of  these  parts  around  their 
waist.  There  is  an  old  monkish  tradition  that  our  first 
parents,  when  adopting  dress  in  the  garden  of  Eden, 
availed  themselves  of  the  leaf  of  the  plantain,  hence 
called  Musa  paradisiaca ;  and  it  must  be  owned  that  a 
Fijian,  having  assumed  this  dress,  presents  a  most  pri- 
mitive appearance,  the  more  striking  because  his  move- 
ments are  entirely  free  from  any  approach  to  indecency, 
which  a  European  who  has  never  lived  amongst  races 
going  naked  would  naturally  fancy  associated  with  so 
scanty  a  garb.  It  is,  perhaps,  the  most  simple  form  of 
an  article  of  dress  much  worn  in  Fiji,  and  called  "lAlcu" 
consisting  of  a  number  of  fringes  simply  attached  to  a 
waistband.  The  length  of  these  fringes  is  subject  to 
certain  rules  of  custom.  Men  can  wear  them  very  long ; 
but  women,  particularly  young  unmarried  ones,  must  not 
have  them  longer  than  two  or  three  inches.  Liku  is 


352  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

made  of  many  different  plants,  and  might  be  classified 
into  temporary  and  permanent.     Amongst  the  tempo- 
rary Likus  ought  to  be  placed  those  made  of  plantain 
and  cocoa-nut  leaves,  or  those  made  of  a  climbing  plant, 
the  Vono  (Alyotia  bracteolosa,  Eich.,  A.  Gray),  the  stem 
of  which  is  partially  broken  to  give  it  greater  flexibility, 
and  also  to  bring  out  an  agreeable  smell  peculiar  to  the 
Vono,  on  account  of  which  it  is  also  worn  as  garlands 
around  the  head.    Amongst  the  permanent  Likus  is  one 
termed  "  Sausauwai,"  the  long  black  fringes  of  which, 
playing  on  the  white  Tapa,  or  on  the  fine  limbs  of  the 
natives,  has  a  most  graceful  appearance.     Both  on  ac- 
count of  the  scarcity  of  the  materials  of  which  it  is  com- 
posed, and  its  being  unaffected  by  water,  especially  when 
greased  with   cocoa-nut   oil,   the   Sausauwai   is   highly 
valued  by  fishermen,  and  all  people  living  on  the  coast 
of  Fiji ;  they  will  give  twenty  fathoms  of  white  Tapa, 
and  the  Tonguese  and  Samoans  as  much  as  £1  sterling, 
for  a  single  one  of  these  elegant  articles  of  dress.     The 
fringes  of  which  it  is  composed  are  of  the  thickness  of 
a  common  wire,  rather  flexible,  and  occasionally  orna- 
mented with  small  beads.    Placed  under  the  microscope, 
the  vegetable  origin  of  these  fringes  becomes  at  once 
evident,  and  they  are  found  to  be  composed  of  glossy 
black  joints,  of  unequal  length.     None,  save  a  few  na- 
tives, had  ever  seen  the  plant  producing  them,  and  it 
was  the  general  belief  of  all  the  foreign  residents  in 
Fiji  that  they  were  the  roots  of  a  certain  tree,  until 
Mr.  Pritchard  and  myself  made  the  subject  a  point  of 
special  inquiry  during  our  first  visit  to  Navua.     A  few 
words  from  Chief  Kuruduadua,  and  two  large  knives 


MATERIALS   FOR    CLOTHING.  353 

held  out  by  us  as  a  reward,  induced  two  young  men  to 
procure  a  quantity  of  this  singular  production  sufficient 
for  scientific  examination ;  proving  it  to  be,  not  the  root 
of  a  tree,  as  had  been  believed,  but  the  entire  body  of 
a  species  of  EMzomorpha.  The  plant  is  vernacularly 
termed  "  Wa  loa,"  literally,  black  creeper,  from  wa, 
creeper,  and  loa,  black — a  name  occasionally  applied  to 
the  Liku  made  of  it  also.  The  Wa  loa  is  confined  to 
the  south-western  parts  of  Viti  Levu,  where  it  grows  in 
swamps  on  decaying  wood  fallen  to  the  ground ;  the 
threads 'of  which  it  consists  are  several  feet  long,  leafless, 
not  much  branched,  and  they  are  furnished  here  and 
there  with  little  shield-like  expansions,  acting  as  suckers, 
by  means  of  which  the  plant  is  attached  to  the  dead 
wood  upon  which  it  grows.  The  threads,  having  been 
beaten  between  stones  in  order  to  free  them  from  im- 
purities adhering,  are  buried  for  two  or  three  days  in 
muddy  places,  and  are  then  ready  for  plaiting  them  to 
the  waistband. 

The  Liku  worn  by  the  women,  always  speaking  of 
those  who  have  not  as  yet  adopted  foreign  calico,  are 
principally  made  of  the  fibres  of  the  different  species  of 
Vau,  the  Vau  dina  (Paritium  tiliaceum,  Juss.),  the  Vau 
dra  (Paritium  tricuspis,  Guill.),  and  the  Vau  damudamu 
(Paritium  purpurascens,  Seem.).  The  bark  of  these  trees 
is  stripped  off,  steeped  in  water  to  render  it  soft  and 
pliable,  and  allow  the  fibres  to  separate.  The  fibres  are 
either  permitted  to  retain  their  original  whiteness,  or 
they  are  dyed  yellow,  red,  or  black.  The  yellow  colour 
is  imparted  with  turmeric,  the  black  with  mud  and  the 
leaves  of  the  Tavola  (Terminalia  Catappa,  Linn.),  and 

2  A 


354  A  MISSION  TO  vm. 

the  red  with  the  bark  of  the  Kura  (Morinda  citrifolia, 
Linn.),  and  that  of  the  Tiri  (Guttiferce ?).  The  Liku 
worn  by  the  common  women  consists  of  one  row  of 
fibres,  all  of  the  same  colour;  whilst  those  worn  by 
ladies  of  rank  are  often  composed  of  two  or  three  rows 
or  layers — flounces,  I  suppose,  would  be  the  proper  term 
—every  one  of  which  exhibits  a  different  colour. 

Mats,  with  which  the  floors  of  houses  and  sleeping- 
places  are  thickly  covered,  are  made  of  two  kinds  of 
screw-pines :  the  coarsest,  of  the  leaves  of  the  Balawa 
(Pandanus  odoratissimus,  Linn.) ;  the  finest,  of  those  of 
the  Voivoi  (Pandanus  caricosus.  Rum  ph.).  The  Balawa, 
or  Vadra,  as  it  is  termed  in  some  districts,  is  a  tree 
twenty-five  feet  high,  indicative  of  poor  soil,  growing  in 
exposed  positions,  and  being  one  of  the  first  plants  ap- 
pearing on  newly-formed  islands.  Its  singular  habit  has 
often  been  dwelt  upon.  The  smooth  white  branches, 
with  their  dense  heads  of  foliage,  not  inaptly  compared 
to  the  arms  of  a  huge  candelabrum ;  the  strong  aerial 
roots,  covered  with  minute  spines,  and  serving  as  so 
many  props ;  the  curious  corkscrew-like  arrangement  of 
the  leaves,  the  leathery,  sword-shaped  leaves  them- 
selves, and  their  spiny  edges ;  the  long  spikes  of  male, 
and  the  shorter  branches  of  female  flowers,  their  deli- 
cious perfume  strongly  recalling  to  mind  that  of  the 
vegetable  ivory  of  South  America ;  finally,  the  bright 
orange-coloured  drupes,  formed  into  large  heads  of 
fruit,  to  say  nothing  of  their  insipid  taste,  appreciated 
only  by  natives,  are  all  so  essentially  different  from  what 
a  European  traveller  is  accustomed  to  in  his  own  coun- 
try, that  his  attention  is  involuntarily  arrested,  and  he 


MATERIALS    FOR   MATS   AND    BASKETS.  355 

hardly  ever  fails  to  record  it.     The  Voivoi  or  Kiekie 
(Pandanus  caricosus,  Rumph.)  is  a  stemless  species,  with 
leaves  ten  to  twelve  feet  long,  which  delights  in  swampy 
localities  of  the  forests,  and  is  occasionally  cultivated  to 
meet  the  demand.     Fans,  baskets,  and  the  finest  mats 
— even  those  on  which  newly-born  babes,  naked  as  they 
are  for  more  than  a  twelvemonth,  are  carried — are  made 
of  its  bleached  leaves.     Occasionally  neat  patterns  are 
worked  in,  by  introducing  portions  of  the  material  dyed 
black,  whilst  the  borders   of  highly-finished  mats  are 
tastefully  ornamented  with   the  bright-red  feathers   of 
the  Kula, — a  parroquet  (Coriphilus  solitarius,  Latham) 
not  found  in  the  groups  eastward  of  Fiji,  and  therefore 
highly  esteemed  by  the  inhabitants  of  those  islands.  The 
bleached  leaves  are  also  employed  for  decorating  the 
body,  being  tied  by  the  men  over  their  head-dress  (sala), 
around  their  breast,  upper  part  of  the  arms,  wrists,  and 
above  the  calves.     The  custom  is  not  restricted  to  any 
particular  class,  but  freely  practised  by  all,  serfs,  com- 
moners, and  chiefs,  when  they  go  to  war,  or  wish   to 
look  smart.     The  bright-coloured  leaves  of  the  Ti  kula 
(Dracaena  ferrea,  Linn.,  var.),  and  a  number  of  flowers, 
ferns,  and  leaves,  are  used  by  both  sexes  as  wreaths, 
garlands,  necklaces,  and  similar  ways,  evidently  showing 
their  great  love  for  flowers  and  graceful  foliage.    A  cer- 
tain kind  of  mats,  worn  as  articles  of  clothing,  are  called 
"  Kuta,"  from  a  species  of  sedge  (Elceocliaris  articulata, 
Nees  ab  Esenb.),  supplying  materials  for  them,  growing 
in  swamps  to  the  height  of  six  feet  or  more,  and  going 
either  by  that  name  or  by  that  of  Ya.    Baskets  are  also 
made  of  the  leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut  palm,  and  the  stem 

a  A  2 


356  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

of  the  Elagellaria  Indica,  Linn.,  split  up  in  narrow 
strips ;  those  of  the  former  are  the  most  easy  to  make, 
but  they  do  not  last  long,  whilst  those  of  the  latter  are 
the  neatest  and  last  the  longest. 

Fibre  used  for  cordage  is  derived  from  three  species  of 
Vau  (Paritium  tiliaceum,  P.  tricuspis,  et  P.  purpuras- 
cens),  the  cocoa-nut  palm,  the  Yaka  or  Wayaka  (Pacliy- 
rliizus  angulatus,  Rich.),  the  Kalakalauaisoni  (Hibiscus 
diver sifolius,  Jacq.),  and  the  Sinu  Mataiavi  ( WiJcstrcemia 
Indica,  Meyer).  Plaiting  cocoa-nut  fibre  into  "  sinnet," 
afterwards  to  be  made  into  rope,  or  simply  used  for 
binding  material,  and  as  such  a  good  article  of  exchange 
in  the  group,  is  a  favourite  occupation  of  the  men,  even 
of  high  chiefs,  when  sitting  in  bures  and  discussing 
politics  or  other  topics  of  the  day.  According  to  Mr. 
Pritchard,  none  of  the  Polynesians  produce  so  great  a 
quantity  of  this  article  as  the  Fijians,  though  the  Ton- 
guese  excel  them  in  colouring  it.  I  have  seen — he  con- 
tinues in  the  memorandum  from  which  I  quote — a  ball 
of  "  sinnet "  six  feet  high,  and  four  feet  in  diameter. 
Some  heathen  temples,  Bure  ni  Kalou,  used  to  be  en- 
tirely composed  of  such  plaiting,  and  their  completion 
must  have  been  a  task  extending  over  a  considerable 
period,  since  a  model  of  them,  four  feet  high,  ordered 
for  the  Museum  of  Economic  Botany  at  Kew,  could  not 
be  finished  in  less  time  than  six  weeks,  and  at  a  cost  of 
£5.  The  fibre  of  the  Yaka  or  Wayaka  (Pacliyrhizus 
angulatus  ~Rich.=Dolichus  bulbosus,  Linn.)  is  principally 
sought  for  fishing-nets,  the  floats  of  which  are  the 
square  fruits  of  the  Vutu  rakaraka  (Barringtonia  spe- 
ciosa,  Linn.).  The  Sinu  Mataiavi  ( WiJcstrcemia  Indica, 


TIMBER.  357 

Meyer),  a  sea-side  shrub,  perhaps  identical  with  the 
Sinu  ni  vanua,  serves  the  same  purpose,  its  bark,  like 
that  of  other  Thymelece,  containing  a  readily-available 
fibre — a  fact  also  known,  according  to  Mr.  Pritchard,  in 
the  Samoan  islands,  where  the  plant  is  termed  "  Mati." 
Only  a  limited  use  is  made  of  the  fibre  of  the  Kalaka- 
lauaisoni  (Hibiscus  \_Abelmosclius~]  diver  si folius,  Jacq.),  a 
plant  abounding  in  swamps  all  over  Fiji. 

Timber  of  excellent  quality,  both  for  house  and  ship- 
building purposes,  abounds  on  the  large  islands,  and  a 
trade  in  it  has  already  sprung  up  with  the  Australian 
colonies.  The  timber-trees  belong  principally  to  the 
natural  orders  Coniferce,  Cdsuarinece,  Guttiferce,  Myrta- 
cece,  and  Leguminosce.  The  most  valuable  wooHs~are 
tfiose  produced  by  the  Dakua,  ^esi,  Dilo,  and  Vaivai, 
and  a  list  of  nearly  one  hundred  useful  kinds  might  be 
drawn  up. 

The  Dakua  or  Fijian  Kowrie-pine  (Dammar a  Vitiensis, 
Seem.)  is  a  noble  addition  to  a  genus  of  Conifers,  of  which 
several  species  are  known,  scattered  over  New  Zealand, 
Southern  Queensland,  New  Caledonia,  Aneitum,  the 
Moluccas,  Java,  and  Borneo.  Dakuas  have  been  found 
in  Vanua  Levu,  Viti  Levu,  Ovalau,  and  Kadava ;  but 
European  sawyers  have  already  made  such  sad  havoc 
amongst  them,  that  it  is  only  in  the  two  former  islands 
where  they  are  still  abundant.  Wilkes  alludes  to  a  fine 
one  near  Levuka,  Ovalau,  which  measured  five  feet  in 
diameter,  or  15  feet  in  circumference.  Those  which  I 
saw  at  Korovono.  Vanua  Levu,  displayed  greater  dimen- 
sions, the  largest  stem  being,  at  four  feet  above  the  base, 
eighteen  feet;  and  another,  also  four  feet  above  the 


358  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

base,  sixteen  feet  in  circumference.  Milne  (Hook.  Jour. 
Bot.  and  Kew  Misc.  ix.  p.  113)  gives  from  eighteen  to 
twenty-seven  feet  circumference  as  the  maximum,  but 
he  does  not  state  at  what  height  above  the  base  his 
measurement  was  taken.  Some  of  the  trees  at  Korovono 
were  from  80  to  100  feet  high,  and  up  to  a  height  of 
60  feet  free  from  branches.  The  bark  was  whitish  on 
the  outer,  red  on  the  inner,  surface,  peeling  off  like  that 
of  Australian  gum-trees.  Old  specimens  did  not  have  re- 
gular whorls  of  branches,  as  is  the  case  with  most  Coni- 
fers. The  wood  of  the  Korovono  tree  was  white,  but 
there  is  said  to  be  also  a  red-wooded  kind,  which  may 
perhaps  prove  distinct  from  this  plant.  Dakua  is  used  for 
masts,  booms,  and  spars,  for  flooring  houses,  and  for  all 
those  purposes  for  which  deal  is  usually  employed  by  us. 
Spars,  from  sixty  to  eighty  feet  long,  and  two  to  three 
feet  thick,  were  seen  at  Taguru,  Viti  Levu.  The  Dakua 
is  not  gregarious,  but  found  always  isolated  in  forests  of  a 
mixed  composition.  Like  other  Kowrie-pines,  the  Fijian 
exudes  a  gum,  or  rather  resin,  called  "Makadre."  Lumps 
weighing  501bs.  have  occasionally  been  found  under  old 
rotten  stumps ;  and  a  good  deal  might  be  collected  in 
districts  whence  these  trees  have  disappeared,  if  the 
natives  could  be  made  acquainted  with  the  peculiar  way 
in  which  the  New  Zealanders  sound  the  ground  for  their 
kowrie-gum.  There  has  never  been  any  foreign  trade  in 
this  article,  because  the  Europeans  in  Fiji,  ignorant  of 
its  average  market- value,  rejected  the  offer  of  the  natives 
to  collect  it.  Captain  Dunn,  an  American,  is  said  to  have 
taken  away  half  a  ton  of  it,  but  it  has  not  transpired 
whether  he  was  able  to  dispose  of  it  to  advantage.  New 


TIMBER.  359 

Zealand  kowrie-gum  has  for  years  past  fetched  at  public 
sales  in  London  from  14s.  to  16s.  the  cwt.  In  consequence, 
however,  of  the  rebellion  in  New  Zealand,  it  gradually 
advanced  in  1860  to  from  25s.  to  28s. ;  in  the  spring  of 
1861  it  was  quoted  at  from  18s.  to  20s.,  and  it  will  no 
doubt  ultimately  be  sold  again  at  its  former  prices.  The 
Fijians  principally  use  the  gum  for  glazing  pots  (vaka- 
makadretaka), — the  substance  being  put  on  while  the 
vessels  are  yet  very  hot, — and  for  burning.  The  older  it 
gets  the  better  it  burns.  At  first  it  is  of  a  light  whitish 
colour,  but  becomes  more  and  more  that  of  amber,  as 
well  as  transparent  with  age.  The  natives,  fearing  de- 
mons, ghosts,  and  other  creations  of  their  wild  fancy,  are 
always  anxious  to  be  housed  before  sunset,  and  when 
compelled  to  venture  out  in  the  dark  or  when  benighted, 
set  up  loud  yells  to  drive  away  evil  spirits,  and  light  a 
torch  made  either  of  the  resin  of  the  Dakua  (bound 
round  with  rushes),  the  stem  of  the  Wavuwavu  (Erigeron 
albidum,  A.  Gray),  the  trunk  of  the  bamboo,  or  the  flower- 
stalks  of  the  cocoa-nut  palm.  In  the  smaller  islands  and 
certain  coast-districts  of  Vanua  Levu  and  Viti  Levu, 
lamps  fed  with  cocoa-nut  oil  are  common ;  but  in  the 
interior  of  the  principal  islands,  where  that  oil  is  an  im- 
ported article  difficult  to  obtain,  the  resin  of  the  Dakua 
is  burnt,  either  in  the  form  of  pastiles  about  two  inches 
long,  or  in  ribbon-like  strips  surrounded  by  slips  of  wood, 
so  as  to  constitute  a  kind  of  candle.  When  burnt  in  the 
first-mentioned  way,  the  resin  is  protected  by  crocks  from 
running  about  and  igniting  the  Pandanus  matting  or 
other  inflammable  materials  of  the  houses.  A  dye  ob- 
tained from  the  smoke  of  the  burning  resin  is  used  for 


360  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

the  hair  and  for  painting  native  cloth  black,  or  mixed 
with  a  certain  red  earth  to  make  a  brown  pigment. 
Amongst  the  lower  classes  it  is  employed  for  tatooing 
women  instead  of  the  juice  of  the  Lauci  fruit  (Aleurites 
triloba,  Forst),  resorted  to  by  ladies  of  rank :  the  skin 
being  punctured  with  thorns  of  the  shaddock  tree. 

Besides  the  Dammara  Vitiensis,  Seem.,  there  are  five 
other  cone-bearing  trees,  all  of  which  yield  valuable 
timber,  viz.  the  Kau  solo,  the  Gagali,  the  Kuasi,  the 
Kau  tabua,  and  the  Leweninini.  The  Kau  solo  repre- 
sents a  new  genus  peculiar  to  Fiji,  and  growing  abun- 
dantly in  the  southern  parts  of  Viti  Levu,  where  it 
attains  from  sixty  to  eighty  feet  in  height  and  nine  feet 
in  girth.  It  has  the  appearance  of  the  Yew, — dark,  lan- 
ceolate leaves,  about  an  inch  long,  and  solitary  nuts  at 
the  ends  of  the  branches.  The  Gagali  (Podocarpus  po- 
lystachya^Si.  Br.)  is  common  on  the  banks  of  rivers.  It  is 
never  seen  higher  than  thirty  or  forty  feet,  and  on  the 
Navua  I  noticed  that  during  the  season  when  the  river 
overflows  its  banks,  the  trees  must  often  be  under  water, 
as  dead  twigs,  leaves,  and  herbage,  carried  down  by  the 
tide,  were  lodged  in  their  crowns.  The  wood  is  pecu- 
liarly elastic,  and  would  probably  do  well  for  keels  of 
boats  and  schooners.  The  Kuasi  (Podocarpus  elata,  R. 
Br.)  is  confined  to  the  summits  of  mountains,  and  forms 
the  chief  vegetation  of  Voma  peak,  Viti  Levu.  Its  wood 
is  used  for  outriggers  of  canoes.  Another  cone-bearing 
tree  is  the  graceful  Kau  tabua  (Podocarpus  cupressina, 
R.  Br.),  common  in  the  mountains  of  the  Indian  Archi- 
pelago, and  in  Aneitum.  Milne  found  it  in  Viti  Levu. 
Its  native  name  is  derived  from  the  wood  (Kau),  re- 


TIMBER.  361 

sembling  in  its  yellowish  tinge  a  well-oiled  whale's 
tooth  (tabua),  formerly  esteemed  the  most  precious 
article  in  the  group.  The  tree  is  from  fifty  to  eighty  feet 
high,  with  spreading  pendulous  branches,  presenting  a 
beautiful  appearance.  TheLeweninini  (Dacrydium  elatum^ 
Wall.)  is  found  in  mixed  forests  from  the  sea-shore  to 
the  highest  peaks.  The  branches  are  very  delicate,  and 
the  youngest  hang  down  in  graceful  fringes,  clad  with 
needle-shaped  leaves  of  about  half  an  inch  in  length. 
The  slightest  breeze — and  there  is  scarcely  ever  a  calm 
in  Fiji — causes  the  branchlets  and  foliage  to  tremble 
(ninini),  somewhat  like  our  aspen ;  hence  the  natives  of 
Ovalau  have  given  it  the  name  of  "  Leweninini."  When 
coming  from  Somosomo  to  Levuka,  the  crew  on  board 
the  '  Paul  Jones '  gave  me  an  account  of  a  moving  plant, 
which  they  assured  me  grew  in  the  mountains  of  Ovalau, 
and  which  excited  my  curiosity  in  an  eminent  degree. 
No  sooner  had  I  landed  than  two  boys  were  dispatched 
for  specimens  of  the  Leweninini ;  but  instead  of  bringing 
this  Dacrydium,  they  brought  a  club-moss,  common  in 
the  tropics  (Lycopodium  cernuum^  Linn.),  and  which  I 
found  was  termed  Leweninini  sa,  on  account  of  a  certain 
resemblance  to  it.  Macdonald  (Jour.  Geog.  Soc.  Lond. 
xxvii.  p.  247)  fancied  this  Dacrydium  identical  with  the 
New  Zealand  Dacrydium  cupressinum,  Sol. ;  but  this  is  a 
mistake.  He  also  expresses  his  belief  that  the  wood 
called  Dakua  salusalu  is  the  produce  of  this  tree,  and 
in  this  he  is  supported  by  Mr.  Storck,  who,  being  now 
a  permanent  resident  in  Fiji,  had  ample  opportunity  to 
go  into  the  question.  My  inquiries  respecting  the  last- 
mentioned  point  have  not  been  attended  with  success. 


362  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Nearly  every  native  consulted  pointed  out  a  different 
tree  as  the  source  of  that  timber.  Mr.  Pritchard  also 
took  some  pains  about  it,  as  the  subject  was  brought 
before  him  in  his  consular  capacity.  A  resident  in 
Ovalau  had  made  a  contract  with  a  man  for  a  supply  of 
Dakua  salusalu.  When  the  timber  was  delivered,  cut 
on  Vanua  Levu,  it  was  found  to  be  that  of  the  common 
Dakua  (I)ammara\  quite  unlike  the  wood  going  by  the 
name  of  Dakua  salusalu  in  Ovalau.  Payment  being  re- 
fused, the  Consul's  interference  was  invoked.  There 
being  no  scientific  work  to  which  an  appeal  could  be 
made,  Mr.  Pritchard  solved  the  difficulty  by  deciding 
that,  although  the  wood  tendered  might  bear  or  bore 
the  name  of  Dakua  salusalu  in  Vanua  Levu,  it  was  not 
the  one  recognised  by  that  name  in  Ovalau ;  and  whereas 
the  contract  had  been  entered  into  in  the  latter  island, 
only  such  wood  as  was  called  "  Dakua  salusalu ''  there 
need  be  paid  for. 

The  Nokonoko  (Casuarina  equiseti folia,  Forst.)  pro- 
duces a  wood  much  used  for  clubs  and  all  purposes  in 
which  hardness  and  heaviness  is  an  object.  It  is  most 
frequent  in  the  eastern  parts  of  the  group,  its  preva- 
lence indicating  a  poor  soil.  Its  sombre  aspect,  and  the 
wailing  sound  caused  by  the  playing  of  the  breezes  in 
the  branches,  forcibly  appeal  to  the  poetical  sentiment ; 
hence  the  Nokonoko  is  planted  in  masses  about  tombs, 
and  a  fine  grove  of  that  kind  is  seen  at  Lakeba,  sur- 
rounding the  burial-place  of  a  departed  chief.  The 
young  branches  are  drooping,  imparting  to  the  tree  a 
peculiarly  graceful  look,  and  forming  a  beautiful  con- 
trast to  the  erect  and  rigid  growth  of  its  congener,  the 


TIMBEK.  363 

Vel&o(Casuarina  nodiflora,  Forst),  which  is  occasionally 
met  with  in  its  company,  and  also  yields  a  useful  timber 
Whilst  the  Nokonoko  assumes  a  more  or  less  pyramidal 
form,  is  scarcely  ever  higher  than  forty  feet,  and  has  a 
greyish  hue,  the  Velao  is  often  sixty  feet  and  even  more 
in  height  and  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  has  a  green 
mossy-looking  crown,  which,  by  its  flatness  on  the  top, 
reminds  one  of  the  stone-pine  so  characteristic  of  the 
Italian  landscape.  The  Velao  almost  invariably  grows 
in  good  soil,  generally  in  mixed  forests ;  whilst  the  No- 
konoko shuns,  as  it  were,  a  close  contact  with  other 
kinds  of  trees,  and  it  scarcely  ever  associates  with  any 
save  the  Balawa  or  Screw-pine  (Pandanus  odoratissimus, 
Linn.). 

The  Dilo  (Calophyllum  inophyllum,  Linn.),  a  sea-side 
tree,  grows  to  a  large  size,  and  its  wood  is  used  for 
canoes  and  boats.  Several  of  the  little  coasting  vessels, 
cruising  about  Fiji,  are  almost  exclusively  built  of  it 
and  the  Vaivai  (Serianthes  Vitiensis,  Gray) ;  their  masts 
being  supplied  by  the  Dakua  (Dammar a  Vitiensis,  Seem.). 
Dilo  wood  has,  besides,  a  beautiful  grain  and  takes  a  fine 
polish.  Allied  to  the  Dilo  is  the  Damanu  (Calophyllum 
Jlurmanni,  Wight),  a  large  inland  forest  tree,  also  fur- 
nishing materials  for  boats,  canoes,  masts,  and  all  kinds 
of  carpentry.  The  Tivi  (Terminalia  Moluccana,  Lam.), 
a  littoral  tree,  and  its  congener,  the  Tavola  (Terminalia 
Catappa,  Linn.),  add  their  share  to  the  Fijian  woods. 
That  of  the  Tavola  is  made  into  drums  called  "  Lali," 
the  beating  of  which  is  resorted  to  when  distinguished 
guests  arrive,  on  festive  occasions,  or  to  call  the  Chris- 
tians to  Divine  service  ;  and  it  is  a  curious  coincidence, 


364  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

but  certainly  nothing  more  save  a  coincidence,  that  the 
ancient  Egyptian  term  for  rejoicing  was  "  lali,"  as  in 
the  Arabian  song  of  '  Doos  ya-lel-lee'  These  drums  are 
beaten  with  two  short  and  thick  pieces  of  wood,  and 
the  sound  produced  can  be  heard  within  a  circle  of  se- 
veral miles.  Great  praise  is  bestowed  on  the  Mulomulo 
(Thespesia  populnea,  Corr.),  a  tree  common  on  the  sea- 
beaches  of  the  Eastern  hemisphere,  on  account  of  the 
almost  indestructible  nature  of  its  wood  whilst  under 
water.  When  fully  developed  it  is  about  fifty  feet  high, 
and  the  stem  from  one  to  two  feet  in  diameter,  bearing 
heart-shaped  leaves  and  flowers  somewhat  resembling 
those  of  the  hollyhock,  but  changing  their  colour  as 
the  day  advances, — a  peculiarity  they  share  in  common 
with  those  of  several  other  Malvaceous  plants.  Its 
thick  foliage  renders  it  suitable  for  avenues,  and  I  have 
seen  it  planted  for  the  sake  of  its  shade  both  in  Ceylon 
and  the  Hawaiian  islands.  The  centre  of  old  stems 
generally  decays  in  the  way  our  European  elms  do,  and 
the  wood  towards  that  part  presents  a  deep  claret  co- 
lour. The  Mamakara  (Kleinhovia  hospita^  Linn.)  and 
the  Marasa  (StorcJdella  Vitiensis,  Seem.,  so  called  in 
honour  of  my  able  assistant  in  the  botanical  explora- 
tion of  Fiji,  Mr.  Jacob  Storck)  should  not  be  omitted 
in  a  list  of  timbers.  The  Mamakara  is  from  forty  to 
fifty  feet  high,  and  rather  a  social  tree,  indicating  its 
presence  during  the  flowering  season  by  its  numerous 
and  large  panicles  of  pink  blossoms.  The  Marasa,  dis- 
covered on  the  southern  side  of  Ovalau  by  Mr.  Storck, 
is  a  noble  object,  attaining  eighty  feet  or  more  in 
height,  nine  feet  in  girth,  having  a  remarkably  straight 


TIMBER.  365 

stem,  a  dense,  dark-green  foliage,  pinnate  leaves,  flowers 
of  a  bright  yellow  colour,  arrayed  in  terminal  panicles, 
at  first  sight  easily  mistaken  for  those  of  a  Cassia,  and 
a  curious  cultriform  fruit  (legumeri).  A  hard  and 
durable  timber  is  produced  by  the  Sagali  (Lumnitzera 
coccinea,  Wight  et  Arn.),  a  tree  with  blackish  wood, 
glossy  foliage,  and  bright  scarlet  flowers,  abounding  in 
maritime  swamps,  as  well  as  by  another  inmate  of  the 
same  localities,  the  Dogo  or  mangrove  (Ehizophora  mu- 
cronata,  Lam.).  The  sap  of  the  latter  has  a  blood-red 
colour,  much  employed  by  the  natives,  amongst  whom 
it  is  almost  as  fashionable  to  dye  their  hair  red  as  it  was 
amongst  the  ladies  of  ancient  Rome,  after  their  roving 
husbands  and  brothers  had  become  acquainted  with  the 
fair  locks  of  the  Teutonic  race.  When  first  put  on, 
the  sap  is  allowed  to  run  freely  over  face  and  neck, 
producing  an  effect  much  like  that  a  crown  of  thorns 
is  represented  as  doing.  On  Nukubati,  off  the  Macuata 
coast  of  Vanua  Levu,  I  saw  it  employed  by  potters  for 
painting  their  crockery.  Just  after  the  pots  had  been 
baked  and  were  still  quite  hot,  a  mixture,  consisting  of 
this  fluid  and  the  sap  of  the  Wakiwaki  (Hibiscus  \_Abel- 
moschus]  moschatus,  Linn.),  was  used  for  that  purpose, 
the  colour  of  the  paint  remaining  almost  unchanged 
after  the  vessels  had  become  cool  and  dry.  The  aerial 
roots  of  the  Dogo  being  very  elastic,  offer  good  mate- 
rials for  bows,  of  which  the  Fijians  avail  themselves ; 
whilst  the  fruit  is  made  into  bread  (madrai)  in  times  of 
scarcity. 

The  Vuga  (Metrosideros  collina,  A.  Gray),  a  tree  with 
glossy  foliage  and  scarlet  flowers,  yields  a  hard  wood  of 


o66  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

good  grain  ;  and  several  other  Myrtaceous  plants,  among 
them  f.hfiJYXfl]  flraim  (Eugenia  rubescens,  A.  Gray),  are 
esteemed  for  their  durable  timber.  A  sea-side  tree  of 
middle  size,  the  Tatakia  (Acacia  [§  Phyllodinece]  lauri- 
folia,  Willd.),  has  a  hard  wood,  useful  for  axe-handles 
and  smaller  pieces  of  carpentry.  The  Qumu  (Acacia 
fiichii,  A.  Gray),  another  phyllodineous  species,  also 
yields  a  hard  wood,  even  more  useful,  as  the  tree  is 
larger  than  the  last-mentioned,  and  supplies  the  paint 
with  which  the  heathen  natives  blacken  their  faces, 
when  they  dress  for  war  or  wish  to  look  particularly 
smart,  hence  "  Qumu  "  paint.  The  Vaivai  (Serianthes 
Vitiensis,  A.  Gray),  often  seen  in  company  with  the 
Qumu,  produces  one  of  the  most  valued  of  all  Fijian 
woods  ;  but  the  Vesi  (Afzelia  bijuga,  A.  Gray),  which  in 
outward  appearance  is  not  unlike  our  beech  (Fagus 
sylvatica,  Linn.),  having  the  white  smooth  bark,  the 
colour,  and  somewhat  the  shape  of  the  leaves  of  that 
familiar  forest-tree,  is  held  in  the  highest  estimation. 
It  is  used  for  canoes,  pillows,  kava-bowls,  clubs,  and  a 
variety  of  other  purposes,  and  seems  almost  indestruc- 
tible. One  of  the  most  common  tree-ferns,  the  Bala- 
bala  (Alsophila  excelsa,  R.  Br.),  is  much  used  for  build- 
ing purposes  by  the  natives.  Its  trunks  make  excellent 
posts,  lasting  an  incredibly  long  time,  and  possessing 
moreover  the  advantage  of  being  almost  fire-proof. 
After  a  house  has  been  burnt  down,  these  posts  are 
almost  the  only  trace  that  remains.  It  is  also  customary 
to  make  the  ridge  pole  of  houses  and  temples  of  this 
tree-fern,  and  to  surround  it  with  the  Wa-Kalou  (holy 
creeper),  a  species  of  that  curious  genus  of  climbing 


PALMS.  367 

ferns  (Lyqodictyori),  partially  no  doubt  from  some  super- 
stitious notions,  but  partially  also  to  keep  out  the  wet. 
The  trunks  of  the  Balabala,  cut  into  ornamental  forms, 
are  frequently  observed  around  tombs,  temples,  churches, 
and  bures,  presenting  a  pretty  effect.  The  little  sticks 
which  the  chiefs  carry,  stuck  under  their  turban,  and 
with  which  they  scratch  their  heads,  are  also  made  of 
Balabala.  The  young  leaves  are  eaten  in  times  of  scar- 
city, while  the  soft  scales  covering  the  footstalks,  or 
more  correctly  speaking  the  stipes,  of  the  fronds,  are 
used  for  stuffing  pillows  and  cushions  by  the  white  set- 
tlers, in  preference  to  feathers,  because  they  do  not  be- 
come so  heated,  and  are  a  real  luxury  in  a  sultry  tropical 
night.  The  Balabala  is  common  all  over  the  group,  es- 
pecially on  the  weather-side,  and  its  trunk  attains  the 
height  of  about  twenty-five  feet,  and  eight  or  ten  inches 
in  thickness.  The  fronds  form  a  magnificent  crown  of 
gigantic  dimensions,  rendering  the  plant  a  noble  feature 
in  the  landscape. 

Palms  play  an  important  part  in  the  domestic  econo- 
my of  the  natives.  The  Fijian s  are  the  only  people  who 
in  their  barbarous  state  had  a  collective  term  for  the 
great  natural  order  of  palms,  applying  that  of  "Niu" 
to  all  those  inhabiting  their  islands,  and  adding  specific 
names  to  distinguish  the  one  from  the  other  ;  viz. : — 

Niu  dina  =  Cocos  mtcifera,  Linn. 

Niu  sawa  =  Kentia  exorrliiza,  Wendl. 

Niu  niu  =  Cagicake  =  Ptycliosperma  filiferum,  Wendl. 

Niu  soria  =  Sogo  =  Sagus  Vitiensis,  Wendl. 

Niu  masei  =  Sakiki  =  Viu  =  Pritchardia  pacifica,  Seem,  et 

Wendl. 
Niu  Balaka  =  Ptyclwsperma  Seemanm,  Wendl. 


368  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

The  word  "  Niu  "  is  common  to  most  Polynesian  lan- 
guages, often  taking  the  form  of  "  Nia  "  and  "  Niau  ;" 
the  New  Zealand  "  Nikau,"  by  which  the  Maoris  desig- 
nate their  indigenous  palm  (Areca  sapida,  Sol.),  does  be- 
long, and  perhaps  even  "  Nipa,"  the  Philippine  name  of 
Nipa  fruticans,  may  belong,  to  the  same  group  of  words. 
We  further  trace  the  Fijian  "  Niu,"  or  with  the  article 
"  a  "  (a  niu)  before  it,  in  the  Anao,  Anowe,  Anau,  and 
Nu,  by  which  names  a  sugar-yielding  palm,  the  Arenga 
saccliarifera,  is  known  in  different  parts  of  the  Indian 
Archipelago.  The  existence  of  a  collective  term  for 
"  palms  "  never  having  been  pointed  out,  the  passage  in 
John  xii.  13,  "Took  leaves  of  the  palm-trees,"  is  ren- 
dered both  in  the  Viwa  and  the  London  edition  of  the 
Fijian  Bible,  "  Era  sa  kauta  na  drau  ni  balabala,''- 
literally,  "  Took  leaves  of  the  tree-fern,"  for  balabala 
is  a  tree-fern  (Alsophila  excelsa,  R  Br.).  "  Niu  "  is  the 
term  that  ought  to  have  been  used,  there  being  two 
kinds  of  real  palms  in  Syria,  but  no  tree-ferns. 

Only  one  of  all  the  palms  as  yet  discovered  in  Fiji 
is  a  fan-palm,  the  rest  having  pinnatiiid  leaves.  This 
is  the  Niu  Masei,  Sakiki  or  Viu,  a  new  genus  of  Cory- 
phince  (Pritchardia  pacifica,  Seem,  et  Wendl.),  differing 
from  all  described  ones  in  several  important  characters. 
The  blades  of  the  leaves  are  made  into  fans,  "  Iri  masei " 
or  "  ai  Viu,"  which  are  only  allowed  to  be  used  by  the 
chiefs,  as  those  of  the  Talipot  (CorypJia  umbraculifera, 
Linn.)  formerly  were  in  Ceylon.  The  common  people 
have  to  content  themselves  with  fans  made  of  Pandanus 
carlcosus.  Hence,  though  there  is  not  a  village  of  im- 
portance without  the  Sakiki,  or,  as  it  is  termed  in  the 


PALMS.  369 

Somosomo  dialect,  which  suppresses  the  letter  #,  Saii, 
there  are  never  more  than  one  or  two  solitary  speci- 
mens to  be  met  with  in  any  place,  the  demand  for  the 
leaves  being  so  limited,  that  they  prove  sufficient  to 
supply  it.  The  fans  are  from  two  to  three  feet  across, 
and  have  a  border  made  of  a  flexible  wood.  They 
serve  as  a  protection  both  from  the  sun  and  rain ;  in 
the  latter  instance  the  fan  is  laid  almost  horizontally  on 
the  head,  the  water  being  allowed  to  run  down  behind 
the  back  of  the  bearer.  From  this  the  Fijian  language 
has  borrowed  its  name  for  "  umbrella,1'  a  contrivance 
introduced  by  Europeans,  terming  it  "  ai  viu,"  that  being 
one  of  the  names  by  which  fans  are  known.  The  leaves 
are  never  employed  as  thatch,  though  their  texture 
would  seem  to  recommend  them  for  that  purpose;  the 
trunk,  however,  is  occasionally  used  for  ridge-beams. 
The  palm  seldom  attains  more  than  thirty  feet  in  height. 
Its  trunk  is  smooth,  straight,  and  unarmed,  and  from 
ten  to  twelve  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base.  The 
crown  has  a  globular  shape,  and  is  composed  of  about 
twenty  leaves,  the  petioles  of  which  are  unarmed  and 
three  feet  four  inches  long,  and  densely  covered  at  the 
base  with  a  mass  of  brown  fibres.  The  blade  of  the 
leaves  is  rounded  at  the  base,  fan-shaped,  four  feet  seven 
inches  long,  three  feet  three  inches  broad,  and  when 
young,  as  is  the  petiole,  densely  covered  with  whitish- 
brown  down,  which,  however,  as  the  leaf  advances  in 
age,  gradually  disappears.  From  the  axil  of  every  leaf 
flowers  are  put  forward,  enveloped  in  several  very  fibrous 
flaccid  spathes,  which  rapidly  decay,  and  have  quite  a 
ragged  appearance  even  before  the  flowers  are  open. 

2  B 


370  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

The  inflorescence  never  breaks  out  below  the  crown,  as  it 
does  in  the  Niu  sawa  (Kentia?  exorrhiza,  Wendl.).  The 
spadix  is  three  feet  long,  stiff  and  very  straight,  bearing 
numerous  minute  hermaphrodite  flowers,  of  a  brownish- 
yellow  colour.  The  fruit  is  perfectly  round,  about  half 
an  inch  in  diameter ;  and,  when  quite  matured,  it  has 
exactly  the  colour  of  a  black-heart  cherry,  the  outside 
having  a  slight  astringent  taste.  The  seeds  germinate 
freely,  and  out  of  a  handful  thrown  carelessly  into  a 
Wardian  case  in  Fiji,  more  than  thirty  had  begun  to 
grow  when  they  reached  New  South  Wales,  where  they 
were  taken  care  of  in  the  Botanic  Gardens,  and  will 
duly  be  distributed  amongst  the  various  establishments 
forming  collections  of  rare  and  beautiful  palms — for 
such  this  species  certainly  is. 

The  Niu  sawa  (Kentia  ?  exorrhiza,  H.  Wendl.)  is  a 
pinnatifid  palm  of  considerable  beauty,  of  which  there 
is  a  characteristic  sketch,  representing  the  vegetation  of 
the  Rewa  river,  in  '  The  Narrative  of  the  United  States 
Exploring  Expedition.'  This  palm  is  found  all  over 
Fiji,  ascending  mountains  to  the  height  of  two  thousand 
feet.  Mr.  Charles  Moore,  of  Sydney,  met  with  it  in  New 
Caledonia ;  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  it  is  also 
found  in  the  Tongan  group,  where,  as  in  Fiji,  it  is  known 
by  the  name  of  "  Niu  sawa,"  I  am  told  ;  "  sawa,"  signi- 
fying "  red "  in  Tonguese  (and  having  no  meaning  in 
Fijian),  being  doubtless  given  on  account  of  the  fruit, 
which  merges  from  bright  orange  into  red.  This  palm 
is  remarkably  straight,  and  often  more  than  sixty  feet 
high.  The  trunk  is  unarmed,  smooth,  and  of  a  whitish 
colour ;  it  is  a  couple  of  feet  above  the  base,  from  two 


PALMS.  371 

to  three  feet  in  circumference.  When  the  tree  gets  old, 
numerous  aerial  roots,  all  covered  with  spines,  begin  to 
appear,  forcibly  reminding  one  of  the  Iriartea  exorrhiza 
in  tropical  America.  The  leaves  are  from  ten  to  twelve 
feet  long,  pinnatifid,  and  the  segments  four  feet  long 
and  two  inches  broad.  Before  expanding  they  are  per- 
fectly erect,  looking  like  a  pole  inserted  into  the  heart 
of  the  foliage  ;  their  petiole  and  midrib  and  veins  are 
in  that  stage  densely  covered  with  a  very  short  brown 
tomentum,  which  more  or  less  disappears  as  the  foliage 
advances  in  age.  The  flowers  appear  below  the  crown 
of  the  leaves,  growing  out  of  the  old  wood ;  they  are 
enveloped  in  thick  coriaceous  boat-shaped  spathes,  which, 
unlike  those  of  the  Sakiki  (Pritchardia  pacifica,  Seem,  et 
Wendl.),  are  not  subject  to  rapid  decay.  The  spadix,  on 
which  the  minute  monoecious  green  flowers  are  inserted, 
is  much  branched,  and  the  branches  are  "  yarring," 
forming  large  bunches,  which,  when  loaded  with  ripe 
fruit,  are  rather  weighty.  As  many  as  eight  of  these 
bunches  are  often  seen  on  a  tree  at  one  time  in  various 
stages  of  development.  The  fruit  is  ovate,  acuminate, 
and  about  the  size  of  a  walnut.  At  first  green,  it  gra- 
dually changes  into  bright  orange,  and  ultimately  merges 
into  red  at  the  base.  The  kernel  has  a  slight  astrin- 
gent taste,  and  is  eaten  by  the  natives,  especially  by  the 
youngsters.  The  wood  is  used  for  spars.  Fine  specimens 
of  the  tree,  brought  by  Mr.  Moore  from  New  Caledonia, 
and  by  me  from  Fiji,  are  cultivated  at  the  Sydney  Bo- 
tanic Garden. 

The  Niu  Niu,  or  as  it  is  more  commonly  termed,  Cagi- 
cake  (Ptychosperma  jiliferum,  Wendl.),  is  found  in  the 

2  B  2 


372  A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 

depth  of  the  forest,  where  it  shows  its  feathery  crown 
above  the  surrounding  trees,  forming  what  St.  Pierre 
poetically  called  "a  forest  above  a  forest,"  and  what 
the  Fijians  less  skilfully  wished  to  express  by  the  name  of 
Cagicake,  literally  "  above  the  wind."  Before  I  had  seen 
the  fruit  the  natives  described  it  to  me  as  being  exactly 
the  same  shape  and  colour  as  that  of  the  Niu  sawa,  but 
only  very  much  smaller  in  size ;  and  in  this  they  were 
pretty  correct.  Whilst  the  fruit  of  the  Niu  sawa  is  as 
large  as  a  walnut,  that  of  the  Cagicake  is  about  the  size 
of  a  jcoffee  berry.  The  trunk  is  smooth,  unarmed,  and 
about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  furnishing  capital  ma- 
terial for  rafters,  which  the  natives  declare  are  so  durable 
that  they  last  for  ever.  The  leaves  are  pinnatifid,  ten 
to  twelve  feet  long,  and  the  lowermost  segments  being 
narrower,  and  at  least  three  or  four  times  as  long  as  the 
uppermost,  hang  down  in  long  fringes.  When  in  the 
dusk  of  the  evening  I  first  encountered  this  singlar  palm 
on  the  Macuata  coast  of  Vanua  Leva,  it  was  this  pecu- 
liarity that  first  attracted  my  attention,  otherwise  I 
should  have  taken  it  to  be  a  Niu  sawa.  It  was  pitch- 
dark  before  the  tree  was  felled  and  dragged  out  of  the 
thick  jungle  in  which  it  grew,  when  passing  my  fingers 
over  the  surface  of  the  segments,  I  felt  a  thick  marginal 
and  elevated  vein,  which  at  once  assured  me  that  an 
undoubtedly  new  addition  had  been  made  to  my  col- 
lection. The  disproportionate  length  of  the  lower  seg- 
ments, and  the  thick  marginal  vein  pointed  out,  though 
they  had  been  first  discovered  in  the  absence  of  regular 
daylight,  are  amongst  the  most  striking  peculiarities, 
and  ought  to  be  seized  upon  by  those  giving  a  popular 


PALMS.  373 

description  of  this  palm ;  the  upper  segments  are  four 
feet  long  and  three  inches  broad.     The  spadix,  like  that 
of  the  Niu  sawa,  is  much  branched,  and  may  be  said  to 
be  a  miniature  imitation  of  it.     The  palm  is  found  both 
in  Vanua  Levu  and  Ovalau,  and  doubtless  also  in  Viti 
Levu,  for  a  palm  which  grows  in  the  interior    of  the 
latter  islands,  and  is  termed  about   Namosi  "  Tankua," 
must,  from  the  description  given  to   me  by  natives,  be 
identical  with  the  Cagicake.     According  so  the  super- 
stitious notion  of  the  inland  tribes  of  Viti  Levu,  the  di- 
minutive fruit  of  the  Tankua  and  those  of  the  Boia  (He- 
liconia?  sp.),  a  plantain-like  species,  is  the  chief  food 
of  the  Veli,  spirits  half  fairy,  half  gnome,  with  a  fair 
complexion  and  diminutive  body.     The  Tankua  is  their 
cocoa-nut,  the  Boia  their  plantain,  and  the  Yaqoyaqona 
( Macropiper  puberulum,  Benth.),  their  kava  plant,  none 
of  which  mortals  can  destroy  or  injure  without  exposing 
themselves  to  the  danger  of  being  severely  punished  by 
those  dwellers  in  the  forests,  the  Veli. 

The  Balaka  (Ptychosperma  Seemanni,  Wendl.)  is  a 
diminutive  palm,  growing  as  underwood  in  dense  forests. 
It  was  met  with  both  in  Vanua  Levu,  on  the  southern 
side,  and  on  the  mountains  of  Taviuni.  The  trunk  is 
remarkably  straight,  ringed,  and  about  an  inch  in  dia- 
meter when  fully  developed.  On  account  of  its  strength 
and  straightness  it  is  used  for  spears  by  the  natives,  and 
would  make  good  walking-sticks.  The  leaves  are  pinna- 
tisect,  about  four  feet  long ;  and  the  segments  are  eroso- 
dentate  at  the  point,  like  those  of  Caryota  and  Wallichia. 
The  flowers  appear  below  the  few  leaves,  forming  the 
crown  of  this,  the  smallest  of  all  Fijian  palms. 


374  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

In  Wilkes's  '  Narrative  of  the  United  States  Explor- 
ing Expedition,'  mention  is  made  of  a  Caryota,  as  grow- 
ing in  Fiji,  and  being  used  for  rafters  in  building.  "  Its 
straight  stem,  with  its  durable,  hard,  and  tough  quali- 
ties, render  it  well  adapted  for  this  purpose."  No  one 
has  subsequently  met  with  a  true  Caryota,  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  genera :  and  I  fancy  that  the  botanists 
of  Wilkes's  expedition  may  have  mistaken  the  eroso- 
dentate  leaves  of  a  timber-yielding  palm,  probably  Pty- 
chosperma  Vitiensis,  WendL,  abounding  in  some  parts 
of  Viti  Levu,  for  those  of  a  Caryota.  It  is  about  forty 
feet  high,  has  a  smooth  trunk,  pinnatifid  leaves,  and  was 
seen  by  me  at  Nukubalavu.  I  have  not  been  able  to 
learn  its  native  name.  Two  other  species,  the  sago  and 
the  cocoa-nut  palm,  already  treated  of  above,  and  three 
discovered  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition, 
augment  the  list  of  Fijian  palms  to  ten. 

Ornamental  plants  are  highly  appreciated  by  both 
natives  and  white  settlers,  especially  those  having  either 
variegated  leaves  or  gay-coloured  flowers,  since  the  Fi- 
jian flora  shares  with  that  of  most  islands  the  peculiarity 
of  possessing  only  a  limited  number  of  species  display- 
ing gay  tints.  Those  most  frequently  seen  about  the 
native  houses  are  what  gardeners  call  "  leaf  plants,"  in- 
cluding the  Danidani  (Panax  fruticosum,  Linn.),  with  its 
deeply-cut  foliage,  several  beautiful  varieties  of  the 
Dracccna  ferrea,  some  of  which  have  been  introduced 
from  various  Polynesian  islands,  the  Croton  pictum,  the 
indigenous  Acalypha  virgata,  Forst.,  termed  Kalabuci 
damu,  the  foliage  of  which  changes  from  dark-green  to 
brown,  yellow  and  scarlet,  and  two  kinds  of  ornamental 


ORNAMENTAL   PLANTS.  375 

grass  (Panicum),  the  one  having  purple,  the  other  va- 
riegated leaves.  The  couch-grass  is  also  spreading  fast 
through  the  islands,  and  there  is  a  fine  lawn  of  it  in 
front  of  the  king's  house  at  Bau,  blendirtg  well  with  the 
number  of  fine  shrubs  and  trees  which,  at  Mrs.  Collis's 
instigation,  were  planted  around  the  royal  residence. 
Of  the  Kauti,  Senitoa,  Senicicobia,  or  Shoe-black  plant 
(Hibiscus  Eosa-sinensis,  Linn.),  a  single  pink  and  purple 
as  well  as  a  double  variety  are  cultivated.  When  the 
Cassia  obtusifolia  and  Cassia  occidentalis  were  first 
brought  to  Fiji,  the  natives  took  them  under  their  special 
protection,  and  disseminated  them  freely,  being  highly 
pleased  with  their  leaves  "going  to  sleep"  at  night, 
whence  the  names  of  Mocemoce  and  Kaumoce,  i.e.  sleep- 
ing plants.  But  they  became  weary  of  their  pets  when  it 
was  found  that  they  speedily  proved  two  most  trouble- 
some weeds,  which,  in  common  with  the  Datura  Stra- 
monium, Euphorbia  piliilifem,  Plcmtago  major,  Erigeron 
albidum,  and  other  foreign  intruders,  caused  them  a  great 
deal  of  additional  labour. 

Most  of  the  white  settlers  have  little  gardens  in  which 
all  flowers  derived  from  warm  countries  are  grown  with 
great  success.  The  pride  of  Barbadoes  (Poinciana  pul- 
cherrima,  Linn.),  both  the  red  and  yellow  variety,  may 
be  seen  in  perfection;  the  same  may  be  said  of  the 
white  trumpet-flower  (Brugmannsia  Candida,  Pers.),  the 
balsam  (Impatiens  Balsaminn,  Linn.),  the  Quamoclit  vul- 
garis,  Chois.,  the  scented  Acacia  (Acacia  Farnesiana, 
Willd.),  the  blue  Clitoria  Ternatea,  Linn.,  the  Gom- 
phrena  globosa,  Linn.,  Vinca  rosea,  Linn.,  Calendula  offi- 
cinalis,  and  the  well-known  Marvel  of  Peru  (Mirabilis 


376  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Jalapa,  Linn.).  Prince's  feathers  (Amarantus  cruentus, 
Linn.),  and  its  congener,  Driti  damudamu  (Amarantus 
tricolor,  Linn.),  have  become  perfectly  naturalized  in 
some  districts.  Attempts  to  grow  the  flowers  of  colder 
regions  have  not  been  so  successful.  Carnations  are  kept 
alive  with  difficulty ;  roses,  though  growing  and  bloom- 
ing freely,  possess  little  or  no  scent,  and  are  chiefly 
valued  from  the  pleasing  associations  connected  with 
them  ;  dahlias  were  introduced  in  1860,  by  Dr.  Brower, 
but  I  have  not  yet  learnt  the  fate  that  attended  them  ; 
a  species  of  honeysuckle  (Lonicera),  noticed  on  the  mis- 
sion premises  at  Viwa  and  Bau,  concludes  the  limited 
list  of  foreign  garden  plants  cultivated  in  Fiji,  a  list, 
for  any  additions  to  which  the  inhabitants  would  feel 
very  grateful. 

The  natives  do  not  content  themselves  with  merely 
looking  at  or  smelling  plants,  but  profusely  decorate 
their  persons  with  them :  elegant-formed  leaves,  passion 
flowers,  the  bright-red  leaves  of  the  dracsenas,  or  the 
bleached  ones  of  the  stemless  screw-pine,  are  made  to 
grace  their  heads  or  turbans.  Great  aptitude  is  dis- 
played in  making  necklaces  (taube  or  salusalu),  the  ma- 
terials for  which  are  principally  furnished  by  monope- 
talous,  white,  and  odoriferous  flowers,  strung  upon  a  piece 
of  string.  I  noticed  those  of  the  Bua  (Fayrcea  Berteriana, 
A.  Gray),  Buabua  (Guettarda  speciosa,  Linn.),  Vasa  or 
Rewa  (Cerbera  lactaria,  Ham.),  and  Sinu  dina  (Leucosmia 
Burnettiana,  Bth.  =  Dais  disperma,  Forst.).  The  flowers 
of  the  Sinu  dina,  or  as  it  is  also  termed  Sinu  damu- 
damu, are  capitate,  and  the  necklaces  made  of  them  are 
called  "  sinucodo,"  a  term  also  applying  to  a  chain.  The 


MISCELLANEOUS.  377 

shrub  is  about  fourteen  feet  high,  has  fine  dark-green 
shining  foliage,  odoriferous  flowers,  which  on  opening 
are  pure  white,  but  gradually  change  to  cream-colour, 
and  bright-red  drupes,  about  as  large  as  a  hazel-nut. 

Numerous  plants  serve  for  miscellaneous  purposes. 
The  flat  round  seeds  of  the  Walai  (Entada  scandens, 
Bth.  =  Mimosa  scandens,  Linn.),  called  "ai  Cibi,"  or  "ai 
Lavo,"  have  suggested  to  the  Fijians  a  comparison  with 
our  coins,  and  supplied  a  word  for  money  (ai  Lavo),  of 
which  their  language  was  formely  destitute,  because 
that  article  was  entirely  unknown  to  them,  all  com- 
mercial exchange  being  carried  on  by  barter.  The 
Walai  or  Wataqiri  is  a  creeper,  always  associated  with 
mangroves  and  other  maritime  vegetation.  Its  stem, 
when  young  used  in  place  of  ropes  for  fastenings,  oc- 
casionally attains  a  foot  in  diameter,  and  forms  bold 
festoons,  whilst  its  pods  arrest  attention  by  their  gigantic 
dimensions,  measuring  as  they  do  several  feet  in  length. 
The  greyish  bony  involucre  of  the  Sila,  or  Job's  tears 
(Coix  Lacryma,  Linn.),  a  grass  growing  in  swamps  and 
having  the  aspect  of  Indian-corn,  as  well  as  the  seeds  of 
the  Diridamu,  Quiridamu,  or  Leredamu  (Abrus  precato- 
rius,  Linn.),  which  resemble  those  of  the  Drala  (Erythrina 
Indica,  Linn.)  in  having  a  bright  red  colour  and  a  black 
spot,  are  affixed  with  breadfruit  gum  to  the  outside  of 
certain  oracle  boxes,  of  which  Wilkes  has  given  fair  illus- 
trations in  his  '  Narrative  of  the  U.S.  Exploring  Expedi- 
tion.' These  boxes  have  a  more  or  less  pyramidal  shape, 
and  are  kept  in  the  temples,  as  the  supposed  abode  of 
the  spirit  consulted  through  the  priests.  Toys,  consist- 
ing of  cocoa-nut  shells,  and  covered  with  these  materials, 


378  A   MISSION   TO    V1T1. 

are  occasionally  seen  in  the  hands  of  native  children,  and 
they  have  rather  a  pretty  effect.  The  bamboo,  vernacu- 
larly termed  "  Bitu,"  is  represented  by  two  species,  a 
large  and  a  small  one,  both  of  which  are  rather  local  in 
their  geographical  range.  The  trunk  of  the  larger  is  in 
general  use  for  vessels  to  contain  water,  some  of  which 
are  six  feet  long.  It  requires  a  certain  knack,  with  some 
difficulty  acquired  by  foreigners,  to  pour  the  water  out 
of  the  small  hole  on  one  side  of  the  upper  end  without 
spilling  some  of  the  contents.  The  natives  drink  out  of 
these  vessels  by  pouring  the  water  in  their  mouth  with- 
out allowing  their  lips  to  touch  them :  sipping  the  fluid 
as  we  do  would  be  considered  an  act  of  impropriety. 
Bamboo  split  up  in  narrow  strips  makes  capital  torches, 
which  do  not  require,  as  has  been  stated,  to  be  dipped 
in  cocoa-nut  oil  in  order  to  make  them  give  a  clear  and 
bright  light.  Fishing  rafts,  pillows  for  sleeping,  instru- 
ments for  beating  time  to  national  songs,  pan-flutes, 
fences  for  gardens  and  courtyards, — all  are  constructed 
of  these  giant  grasses.  At  Nagadi,  in  Viti  Levu,  I  visited 
a  heathen  temple  surrounded  by  a  bamboo  fence,  some 
of  the  sticks  used  being  the  young  shoots  entire,  with 
unexpanded  leaves,  and  looking  like  so  many  fishing 
rods.  The  priest  in  charge  of  this  building  exhibited  a 
bundle  of  bamboos,  which  on  being  struck  on  the  ground 
with  the  opening  downwards  produced  a  peculiarly  loud 
and  hollow  sound.  Two  single  bamboos  of  different 
lengths  are  beaten  contemporaneously  with  this  large 
bundle  in  religious  ceremonies.  An  amusing  sight  is 
presented  by  a  grove  of  bamboos  on  fire.  When  re- 
turning from  Namosi,  I  passed  several  places  where,  to 


MISCELLANEOUS.  379 

clear  the  land,  fire  had  been  set  to  these  groves.  As 
soon  as  the  flame  fairly  embraced  the  canes  a  loud  ex- 
plosion succeeded,  the  general  effect  of  which  being  that 
of  a  well  sustained  skirmish  between  two  hostile  parties 
of  sharp-shooters.  In  Ecuador  I  once  saw  a  sugar-cane 
plantation  on  fire,  but  the  noise  of  the  bamboo  by  far 
exceeded  that  caused  by  the  former.  The  leaves  of  the 
Qangawa,  a  species  of  pepper  (Piper  Siriboa,  Linn.), 
climbing  and  rooting  like  our  ivy,  and,  if  report  may 
be  trusted,  those  of  the  Vusolevu  (Colubrina  Asiatic^ 
Brongn.)  are  used  for  washing  the  hair,  to  clean  it  and 
destroy  the  vermin.  The  Moli  kurukum  (Citrus  vulc/aris, 
Risso)  serves  the  same  purpose,  a  remark  also  applying 
to  the  vine  called  Wa  roturotu  (Vitis  saponaria,  Seem.), 
the  stem  of  which,  especially  the  thicker  part,  is  cut  in 
pieces  from  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  long,  cooked  on 
hot  stones,  and  when  thus  rendered  quite  soft  produces 
in  water  a  rich  lather  almost  equal  to  that  of  soap.  The 
fruits  of  the  Vago,  or  bottle-gourd  (Lagenaria  vulgaris, 
Ser.),  are  readily  converted  into  flasks  for  holding  oil  and 
other  fluids,  by  allowing  their  pulp  to  undergo  decom- 
position. The  juice  of  the  Vetao  or  Uvitai  (Calysaccion 
obovale,  Miq.),  a  useful  timber-tree,  yields  a  dye,  at  pre- 
sent only  employed  by  the  natives  for  changing  their 
black  hair  into  red ;  but  when  it  is  remembered  that 
its  congener,  the  Calysaccion  longifolium,  Wight  (=  C. 
Chinense,  Wlprs.),  furnishes  the  buds  known  as  the 
Nag-kassar  of  Indian  commerce,  it  is  not  unlikely  that 
the  Vetao  or  Uvitai  may  yet  be  turned  to  better  uses. 

This  enumeration  by  no  means  exhausts  the  catalogue 
of  the  useful  products  in  which  a  Flora  of  about  a  thou- 


380  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

sand  different  species,  such  as  the  Fijian  is,  abounds. 
Enough,  however,  has  been  stated  to  show  how  bountiful 
nature  has  been  in  supplying  these  islands  with  edible 
roots  and  fruits,  with  drugs,  spices,  fibres,  timber,  dyes, 
vegetable  fats,  and  other  articles  of  commercial  import- 
ance. The  long  list  of  cultivated  plants  shows  that  the 
natives  are  not  ill  prepared  for  entering  on  agricultural 
operations  on  a  large  scale,  whilst  the  fact  that  the 
varieties  of  the  different  products  grown  are  almost 
endless,  furnishes  a  striking  proof  of  their  succeeding  to 
perfection.  The  numerous  plants  introduced  from  every 
direction  of  the  compass,  and  their  successful  naturali- 
zation, may  justly  be  regarded  as  indicative  of  the  climate 
being  of  that  happy  medium  which,  in  a  similar  way, 
enables  the  English  gardener  to  assemble  in  his  domain 
a  far  greater  collection  of  species  than  his  continental 
rival. 


381 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

REMARKS     ON     THE     FAUNA     OF     FIJI. MAMMALS. BIRDS. FISHES. — REP- 
TILES.  MOLLUSKS. — CRUSTACEA. INSECTS. LOWER    ANIMALS. 

No  attempt  has  as  yet  been  made  to  draw  up  a  list  of 
the  animals  of  Fiji,  and  all  the  materials  for  it  are 
scattered  through  various  periodicals  and  other  publi- 
cations. There  are  very  few  mammals  in  the  group ; 
indeed,  except  the  rat  (Kalavo),  four  Cetaceous  animals, 
and  five  species  of  bats,  collectively  termed  Baka,  we 
have  none  belonging  to  this  fauna.  One  of  these  bats 
or  flying  foxes  has  been  named  Notopteris  Macdonaldii, 
in  honour  of  its  discoverer.  Three  of  them  are  tailless, 
two  have  tails.  There  are  two  kinds  of  porpoises  and 
two  of  whale  in  the  adjacent  seas  and  amongst  the  is- 
lands, but,  though  whales'  teeth  are  highly  valued,  and 
were  so  still  more  formerly,  the  Fijians  have  never  taken 
to  whaling  in  any  form,  and  always  seem  to  have  pur- 
chased their  stock  from  foreign  traders.  The  dog  (Koli), 
the  pig  (Vuakaj,  the  duck,  and  the  fowl  (Toa)  were  the 
only  domestic  animals  known  to  the  natives.  Dogs  were 
not  eaten  and  suckled  by  the  women,  as  was  and  is  the 
case  in  other  Polynesian  islands ;  indeed,  the  custom  of 
eating  dogs  seems  to  have  been  restricted  in  the  Pacific 
to  the  islands  and  countries  north  of  the  line,  and  was 


382  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

apparently  brought  from  the  Sandwich  Islands  to  Tahiti. 
The  white  settlers  have  introduced  cattle,  horses,  goats, 
sheep,  rabbits,  and  cats,  all  of  which  seem  to  thrive 
well.  The  horses  are  as  yet  few  in  number,  and  they 
are  not  much  valued,  as  most  inhabited  places  can  be 
reached  by  water,  and  there  are  as  yet  no  roads  in  the 
large  islands.  The  terror  of  the  natives  at  first  seeing 
a  horse  and  a  man  on  its  back  seems  to  have  been  quite 
equal  to  that  recorded  of  the  ancient  American  nations  ; 
they  ran  away  in  wild  dismay,  or  climbed  trees  and  rocks 
to  get  out  of  the  reach  of  the  monster.  Cattle  succeed 
well ;  and  I  saw  some  very  fine  young  bullocks  on  Ka- 
davu,  the  property  of  Mr.  Boyce.  Fijians  not  fencing  in 
their  plantations,  they  have  rather  a  dislike  to  cattle, 
and  in  some  instances  they  have  killed  them,  as  their 
crops  have  frequently  suffered  from  their  devastation. 
They  are  very  fond  of  beef,  and  as  there  was  no  native 
name  for  it,  they  have  compounded  one,  calling  it 
"  Bulla-ma-kau,"  because  it  is  derived  from  a  bull  and  a 
cow.  Goats  have  become  very  numerous,  and  most  of 
the  white  settlers  have  flocks  of  them  for  the  sake  of 
their  milk ;  but  I  am  not  aware  that  any  of  the  natives 
have  as  yet  reared  any.  Sheep  were  first  introduced, 
if  I  am  rightly  informed,  by  Dr.  Brower,  the  present 
American  Consul,  and  several  extensive  sheep-runs  have 
lately  been  bought  on  the  northern  shores  of  Viti  Levu 
and  Vanua  Levu  by  British  subjects  from  Australia.  It 
was  formerly  supposed  that  the  climate  of  Fiji  was  too 
warm  for  sheep,  but  that  does  not  seem  to  be  the  case. 
Some  specimens  of  Fijian  wool  were  sent  to  the  London 
Exhibition  of  1862.  "We  find  sheep  answer  well," 


MAMMALS   AND    BIRDS.  383 

writes  a  friend  to  me ;  "  the  wool  grows  rapidly,  the 
sheep  fatten  well,  and  the  ewes  breed  rapidly,  frequently 
having  three  at  a  birth,  so  that  we  can  by-and-by  export 
wool  as  well  as  cotton.  In  one  of  the  boxes  sent  to  the 
Exhibition  there  is  some  wool  of  a  sheep  five  months 
old,  born  on  Wakaya,  and  the  property  of  Dr.  Brower." 
Cats  are  now  quite  common,  and  the  natives  have  taken 
to  them  in  order  to  kill  the  mice  and  rats  which  Eu- 
ropean vessels  have  introduced. 

Birds  are  much  more  numerous  than  mammals.  I 
have  a  list  of  forty-six  different  species,  among  them 
parroquets,  owls,  bitterns,  teal,  hawks,  ducks,  pigeons, 
etc.  The  feathers  of  some  of  them  are  collected  for 
ornamental  purposes,  and  the  high  value  set  upon  the 
Kula  (Coriphilus  solitarius,  Latham)  has  already  been 
noticed.  Ducks  and  pigeons,  excellent  eating,  are  very 
abundant,  the  former  about  the  rivers,  the  latter  in  the 
woods.  The  fowls  (Toa*)  which  the  natives  had  were  very 
small,  and  could  scarcely  be  termed  domesticated,  in- 
deed they  have  become  perfectly  wild  in  many  districts. 
Europeans  have  introduced  better  kinds,  and  also  tur- 
keys, but  I  do  not  remember  seeing  any  geese.  I  fancy 
that  the  domestic  ducks  must  have  come  to  the  islands 
early  in  this  century  from  some  Spanish  ships. 

*  Toa  is  the  Fijian  form  of  the  word  "  Moa,"  applied  throughout  Poly- 
nesia to  domestic  fowls,  and  by  the  Maoris  to  the  most  gigantic  extinct 
birds  (Dinornis  sp.  plur.)  disentombed  in  New  Zealand.  The  Polynesian 
term  for  birds  that  fly  about  freely  in  the  air  is  Manu  or  Manumanu,  and 
the  fact  that  the  New  Zealanders  did  not  choose  one  of  these,  but  the  one 
implying  domesticity  and  want  of  free  locomotion  in  the  air,  would  seem  a 
proof  that  the  New  Zealand  Moas  were  actually  seen  alive  by  the  Maories, 
about  their  premises,  as  stated  in  their  traditions,  and  have  only  become 
extinct  in  comparatively  recent  times. 


384  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

My  list  contains  a  hundred  and  twenty-one  species  of 
fish.  Some  of  them  are  excellent  eating ;  indeed  a  great 
part  of  the  native  food  is  derived  from  this  source.  They 
are  secured  by  nets,  spears,  fish  fences,  or  stupefaction, 
by  the  different  plants  enumerated  above  (p.  339).  The 
night  is  a  favourite  time  for  fishing  on  the  reefs,  and 
large  parties  are  made  up,  chiefly  women,  who,  torch 
in  hand,  traverse  the  reefs  laid  bare  by  the  ebb-tide, 
and  gather  what  they  can.  Such  a  fishing  party  is  a 
pretty  sight;  and  when  suddenly  disturbed  from  my 
sleep  by  shouts  and  merry  laughter,  I  have  often  watched 
the  long  lines  of  torches  moving  along  in  the  depth 
of  night  on  the  shores  of  Ovalau.  The  fences  made 
in  the  sea  are  constructed  with  great  care,  and  so  that 
the  fish  will  enter  them  in  large  bodies  and  have  little 
chance  of  escaping.  There  were  generally  some  about 
Lado,  and  baskets  full  of  their  produce  were  daily  sent 
to  us  as  presents.  The  fences  were  not  allowed  to  re- 
main for  more  than  a  few  days  in  the  same  place,  as  the 
natives  maintained  that  the  fish  become  aware  of  their 
existence  and  would  not  enter  them.  Besides  the  edible 
fish,  there  are  a  number  of  different  sharks  about  the 
group,  and  one  hears  of  frequent  accidents  caused  by 
them.  The  natives,  being  excellent  swimmers,  do  not 
mind  being  capsized  in  their  canoes,  but  are  in  great 
dread  of  the  sharks.  The  latter  are  called  collectively 
"  Qio,"  and  nine  salt-water  and  several  fresh-water  spe- 
cies are  enumerated.  One  day  we  encountered  a  very 
large  one  on  the  reef,  where  he  had  been  left  in  a  shal- 
low pool  by  the  receding  tide.  Our  boat  being  near,  an 
axe  was  fetched  to  kill  him,  but  no  sooner  did  he  catch 


FISH    AND   REPTILES.  385 

sight  of  the  weapon  than  he  made  off  in  great  haste, 
moving  along  over  many  hundred  yards  of  dry  reef  like 
a  serpent,  without  our  being  able  to  stop  him.  There 
is  a  curious  tradition  about  a  species  of  sole  called 
"  Davilai."  Mr.  Davilai  used  to  be  the  leader  of  the 
songs  amongst  the  fishes,  and  one  day,  when  all  his 
band  were  together  and  he  was  requested  to  com- 
mence the  strain,  he  obstinately  refused  to  comply. 
Enraged  at  such  behaviour,  the  other  fishes  trod  him 
under  foot  till  he  became  flat ;  and  hence,  when  a 
person  refuses  to  pitch  a  song,  the  proverb  is,  "  Oh, 
here  is  Mr.  Davilai."  There  is  also  a  most  beautiful  fish, 
about  as  large  as  a  gold  fish  and  of  the  finest  ultra- 
marine colour ;  it  is  very  frequent  about  the  coral-beds, 
and  a  finer  sight  can  scarcely  be  imagined  than  this 
creature  playing  in  the  crystal  water  over  what  looks 
like  so  much  mosaic-work. 

Reptiles  are  comparatively  few  in  species.  There 
are  about  ten  different  kinds  of  snakes,  but  none  of 
them  larger  than  about  six  feet.  A  good  many  inhabit 
trees,  and  often  drop  down ;  some  are  eaten.  Snakes 
are  collectively  termed  "  Gata,"  and  every  species  has  a 
distinctive  name.  A  large  frog,  Boto  or  Dreli  (Platy- 
mantis  Vitianus),  is  common  about  the  swamps.  There 
are  three  kinds  of  turtle,  collectively  known  as  "  Vonu." 
The  green  turtle  is  called  "  Vonu  dina,"  and  that  which 
yields  the  shell — the  tortoise — "  Vonu  taku."  But  there 
is  besides  one  which  the  natives  term  "  Tovonu,"  said  to 
be  from  six  to  ten  feet  long ;  however,  I  never  have  seen 
it ;  those  which  the  chiefs  often  have  in  their  turtle-ponds 
are  the  two  first-mentioned  kinds.  The  lizard  tribe  is  re- 

2  C 


386  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

presented  by  a  chameleon  and  four  other  species.  The 
largest  is  Chloroscartes  fasciatus,  Giinth.,  with  a  body  two 
feet  long,  and  of  a  beautiful  green  colour,  somewhat  like 
that  of  the  German  tree  frogs  ;  indeed,  the  Chloroscartes 
inhabits  trees,  and  I  had  one  alive  for  some  time.  Cro- 
codiles are  not  indigenous,  but  about  the  beginning 
of  this  century  a  large  one  made  its  appearance  in  Fiji, 
probably  having  been  drifted  thither  from  the  East  In- 
dies. The  natives,  as  related  by  Mariner  ('Tonga,'  vol.  i. 
p.  334),  fancied  it  had  come  from  Bulu, — from  heaven, 
— and  they  had  some  difficulty  in  catching  it,  not,  how- 
ever, before  it  caused  some  mischief. 

There  is  a  great  variety  of  both  salt,  fresh- water,  and 
land  shells,  probably  several  hundred  species,  and  a 
number  of  them  are  quite  peculiar  to  Fiji.  The  collec- 
tive name  for  shells  is  "  Qa  ni  Vilivili,"  Vilivili  being 
the  animal,  Qa  the  shell.  The  most  famous  Fijian  shell 
is  the  orange  cowry  (Cyprcea  aurantium,  Martyn),  which 
is  found  in  no  other  part  of  the  world,  though  some 
works  state  it  to  have  been  found  in  Tahiti — an  error 
originating  in  Mr.  Cuming  having  purchased  a  single 
specimen  in  that  island.  There  are  several  other  cowries 
also  used,  as  the  orange  cowry  is,  for  necklaces  and 
ornaments  by  the  natives.  Canoes,  houses,  temples,  and 
churches  are  frequently  decorated  with  the  Buliqaqau 
(Ovulmn  ovum,  Sowb.)j  not  the  Cyprcea  ovula,  as  stated 
in  some  works.  Several  other  species  of  shells  are 
also  used  for  ornamental  purposes ;  the  Sobii  or  Sovui 
is  on  that  account  much  valued.  Armlets  (Qatos)  are 
made  of  the  Sici,  Taluvi,  Tebe,  Tebetabe,  or  Toru 
(Trochus  Niloticus,  Linn.).  A  pearl-oyster  shell,  Civa 
or  Cove  of  the  natives,  is  ground,  and  serves  for  orna- 


CRUSTACEA    AND    INSECTS.  387 

ment.  Some  fine  pearls  have  occasionally  been  found, 
but  actual  pearl  fishery  has  as  yet  not  commenced  on 
a  large  scale;  and  the  Fijians  in  some  of  the  islands 
act  on  the  idea,  that  in  order  to  preserve  these  trea- 
sures they  must  be  boiled.  The  Davui  (Triton  variega- 
tus,  Lamk.)  is  made  into  horns  and  trumpets,  invari- 
ably found  in  all  larger  canoes.  Ai  Kaki  or  Ai  Koi,  a 
species  of  Dolium,  is  used  for  scraping,  as  is  also  another 
univalve,  the  Tuasa  or  Ai  Walui.  Several  kinds  of  oysters 
are  eaten,  and  a  fresh-water  Cyrena  is  made  into  soup. 

Crustaceous  animals  are  well  represented.  Shrimps, 
prawns,  crayfish,  lobsters,  and  crabs,  are  plentiful  and 
esteemed  as  food  by  the  natives.  In  some  of  the  smaller 
islands,  for  instance  Qelebevu  and  Vatuvara,  a  very  large 
kind  of  land  crab,  called  "  Ugavule  "  (probably  Birqos 
latro,  and  the  same  of  which  C.  Darwin  speaks  in  his 
c  Journal  of  a  Naturalist '),  is  common.  Being  fierce 
and  strong,  it  is  taken  with  some  difficulty  when  on 
the  ground,  and  throws  earth  and  stones  into  the  face 
of  its  pursuers.  It  climbs  the  highest  cocoa-nut  trees, 
and  not  only  pierces  the  nuts,  but  removes  the  husk 
from  the  old  nuts  and  breaks  them,  in  order  to  get  at 
the  flesh.  When  up  a  tree,  the  natives  take  a  bundle 
of  grass  and  bind  it  round  the  body  of  the  tree,  about 
halfway  up.  The  Ugavule  comes  down  backwards, 
and  when  it  gets  to  the  grass  it  fancies  the  bottom 
has  been  reached,  and,  relinquishing  its  hold  on  the 
tree,  falls  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  and  thus  stunned  is 
easily  captured. 

The  insect  tribe  is  very  numerous,  both  in  species  and 
individuals.  Mosquitoes  (Namu)  are  very  troublesome 

2  C  2 


ob<3  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

in  some  parts,  as  has  already  been  related ;  and  equally 
irritating  are  the  flies  (Lago),  which  keep  one's  hands 
constantly  employed,  and  in  order  to  have  a  meal  in 
peace  a  boy  must  be  kept  continually  employed  in  driving 
them  away.  Fleas,  to  finish  the  catalogue  of  irritants,  are 
not  so  plentiful  as  I  have  found  them  in  Spanish  America 
or  Southern  Europe,  nor  are  foreigners  much  troubled 
by  the  vermin  so  abundant  in  the  large  heads  of  hair 
worn  by  the  heathen  natives.  Cockroaches  are  swarm- 
ing in  most  houses,  canoes,  and  vessels,  and  often  dis- 
turb one  during  the  night,  not  only  by  running  over 
one's  body  but  also  by  attacking  it  in  right  earnest. 
Some  very  fine  beetles  and  butterflies  are  met  with  ;  and 
at  dusk  the  woods  begin  to  swarm  with  myriads  of  fire- 
flies. Highly  curious  are  what  are  popularly  termed 
leaf-  and  stick-insects,  species  of  Mantis ;  the  wings  of 
some  of  them  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  real 
leaves.  Some  large  kinds  of  spider,  amongst  them  a 
stinging  one,  have  to  be  noticed.  Centipedes,  nearly  a 
foot  long, were  frequently  encountered  by  us  in  the  woods, 
and  scorpions  are  more  frequent  than  one  could  wish. 

There  is  a  goodly  display  of  the  lower  evertebrate 
animals,  amongst  them  a  long  series  of  sea-slugs,  sea- 
cumbers,  and  beche-de-mer,  annelidans,  starfish,  and  me- 
dusas. 

It  would  well  repay  a  zoologist  who  has  some  funds 
at  his  command — without  them  he  must  not  go  to  this 
expensive  place — to  spend  a  couple  of  years  in  investi- 
gating the  Fauna  of  Fiji.  Judging  from  what  has  been 
collected,  mostly  in  great  haste,  a  number  of  new 
genera  and  species  may  be  expected  from  a  thorough 
zoological  examination  of  the  group. 


389 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

FIJIAN"    RELIGION. — DEGEI,  THE  SUPREME  GOD. — INFERIOR  DEITIES. WOR- 
SHIP    OF     ANCESTORS. — IDOLIZED     OBJECTS. — TEMPLES. CREATION     AND 

ULTIMATE  DESTRUCTION  OF  THE  WORLD. — A  GREAT  FLOOD. — IMMOR- 
TALITY OF  THE  SOUL. — CONCEPTION  OF  FUTURE  ABODE. — PROPS  OF 
SUPERSTITION. 

THE  supreme  god  in  FijiisDegei  (pronounced  Ndengei), 
known  in  the  other  groups  of  Polynesia  as  Tanga-roa, 
or  Taa-roa  ;  Tanga  being  his  proper  name,  "  roa  "  an  ad- 
jective, signifying  '  the  far  removed,'  perhaps  also  '  the 
most  high.'  To  him  is  attributed  the  creation  and  go- 
vernment of  the  world  ;  and  no  images  of  him  are  made, 
nor  of  any  of  the  minor  gods,  collectively  termed 
"  Kalou."  His  sway  is  universally  acknowledged  in 
Fiji,  and  no  attempts  are  ever  made  to  elevate  any 
local  gods  above  him.  For  this  reason  I  think  that  in 
teaching  our  Christian  religion  it  would  have  been  ad- 
visable to  select  the  name  of  Degei  for  the  Supreme 
Being  rather  than  that  of  "  Kalou,"  which  seems  to  be 
used  not  only  collectively  for  all  gods,  but  also  for  any- 
thing superlative,  good  or  bad.  When  the  natives  saw 
us  doing  anything  inspiring  them  with  admiration  or 
surprise,  they  would  say,  "  Ah,  you  are  Kalous,"  which, 
of  course,  could  not  be  translated,  '  You  are  gods,'  but 
4  You  are  clever  fellows  ! — men  of  genius  !'  etc.  As  no 


390  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

images  were  ever  made  of  Degei,  nor  indeed  any  other 
god,  it  would  have  been  very  easy  to  strip  the  concep- 
tion of  him  of  any  heathen  superstitions.  Degei,  like 
Jupiter,  had  a  bird,  and  is  supposed  to  be  enshrined  in 
a  serpent, — the  world-wide  symbol  of  eternity, — lying 
coiled  up  in  a  cave  of  Na  Vatu,  a  mountain  on  the 
Rakiraki  coast  of  Viti  Levu,  indicating  his  turning  about 
by  occasional  shocks  of  earthquakes.  (Compare  p.  223). 
Some  traditions  represent  him  with  the  head  and  part 
of  the  body  of  a  serpent,  the  rest  of  his  form  being 
stone,  emblematic  of  everlasting  and  unchangeable  du- 
ration ;  in  fact,  Degei  seems  to  be  the  personification 
of  eternal  existence. 

Besides  Degei,  there  is  a  host  of  inferior  gods,  but 
their  rank  is  not  easily  ascertained,  as  each  district  con- 
tends for  the  superiority  of  the  deity  it  has  adopted  and 
specially  worships.  Tokairabe  and  Tui  Lakeba  Radi- 
nadina  seem  to  stand  next  to  Degei ;  they  are  his  sons, 
and  act  as  mediators  in  the  transmission  of  prayers 
to  their  father.  Rokomoutu  is  a  son  of  Degei's  sister, 
and  insisted  upon  being  born  from  her  elbow.  Some 
of  the  gods  find  employment  in  Bulu,  some  on  earth, 
and  the  latter  are  the  tutelary  deities  of  whole  tribes 
or  individuals;  thus  Rokova  and  Rokola  are  invoked 
by  the  carpenters,  Roko  Voua  and  Vosavakadra  by  the 
fishermen,  whilst  every  chief  has  a  god  in  whom  he 
puts  his  special  trust. 

One  of  the  most  universally  known  gods  is  Ratu  mai 
Bulu;  he  is  the  Ceres  of  Fiji,  and  comes  once  a  year 
from  Bulu  to  cause  the  various  fruit-trees  to  blossom 
and  yield  fruit.  During  his  stay  it  is  forbidden  to  do 


FIJIAN   RELIGION.  391 

most  kinds  of  work,  to  go  to  war,  sail  about,  plant, 
build  houses,  beat  the  drums,  or  make  much  noise,  lest 
he  should  take  offence  and  depart  with  his  work  unfin- 
ished. In  December  the  priests  bathe  Eatu  mai  Bulu, 
and  then  announce  his  departure  from  earth  by  a  great 
shout,  which  is  quickly  carried  from  village  to  village, 
from  town  to  town. 

One  of  the  most  universal  beliefs  of  all  mankind  is, 
doubtless,  that  in  the  aid  or  protection  departed  an- 
cestors are  able  to  afford.  All  nations  participate  in  it 
more  or  less,  and  even  Christianity  has  not  been  able 
to  uproot  an  idea  which  poetry  and  art  have  rivalled 
to  perpetuate.  What  educated  man  could  be  so  cruel 
as  to  wish  to  prove  to  an  orphan  child,  left  alone  in 
the  wide  world,  that,  according  to  strict  orthodoxy, 
the  spirit  of  its  mother  could  not  possibly  watch  over 
it,  because  the  lost  one  would  quietly  slumber  in  her 
grave  till  the  great  day  of  judgment  ?  The  Chinese, 
Japanese,  South  African  tribes,  and  Polynesians,  do  not 
clothe  their  ideas  in  so  poetical  a  garb,  or  banish  ad- 
miration for  the  mighty  deeds  of  their  ancestors  from 
the  region  of  religious  sentiment.  They  supplicate  their 
formidable  shades  when  misfortune  befalls  them,  or  fear 
of  the  future  takes  possession  of  their  minds.  With 
the  Fijians,  as  soon  as  beloved  parents  expire,  they 
take  their  place  amongst  the  family  gods.  Bures,  or 
temples,  are  erected  to  their  memory,  and  offerings  de- 
posited either  on  their  graves  or  on  rudely  constructed 
altars — mere  stages,  in  the  form  of  tables,  the  legs  of 
which  are  driven  in  the  ground,  and  the  top  of  which 
is  covered  with  pieces  of  native  cloth.  The  construe- 


392  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

tion  of  these  altars  is  identical  with  that  observed  by 
Turner  in  Tanna,  and  only  differs  in  its  inferior  finish 
from  the  altars  formerly  erected  in  Tahiti  and  the  ad- 
jacent islands.  The  offerings,  consisting  of  the  choicest 
articles  of  food,  are  left  exposed  to  wind  and  weather, 
and  firmly  believed  by  the  mass  of  Fijians  to  be  con- 
sumed by  the  spirits  of  departed  friends  and  relations  ; 
but,  if  not  eaten  by  animals,  they  are  often  stolen  by 
the  more  enlightened  class  of  their  countrymen,  and 
even  some  of  the  foreigners  do  not  disdain  occasionally 
to  help  themselves  freely  to  them.  However,  it  is  not 
only  on  tombs  or  on  altars  that  offerings  are  made ; 
often,  when  the  natives  eat  or  drink  anything,  they 
throw  portions  of  it  away,  stating  them  to  be  for  their 
departed  ancestors.  I  remember  ordering  a  young  chief 
to  empty  a  bowl  containing  kava,  which  he  did,  mutter- 
ing to  himself,  "  There,  father,  is  some  kava  for  you. 
Protect  me  from  illness  or  breaking  any  of  my  limbs 
whilst  in  the  mountains." 

Besides  their  regular  gods  and  deified  spirits,  the  Fi- 
jians have  idolized  objects,  such  as  sacred  stones,  trees, 
and  groves,  of  which  I  have  already  spoken  (p.  87) ;  and 
in  addition  to  thesev  certain  birds,  fishes,  and  some  men, 
are  supposed  to  have  deities  closely  connected  with  or 
residing  in  them.  He  who  worships  the  god  inhabiting 
a  certain  fish  or  bird,  must  of  course  refrain  from  harm- 
ing or  eating  them. 

All  Fijian  temples — at  least  those  about  the  coast — 
have  a  pyramidal  form,  and  are  often  erected  on  ter- 
raced mounds,  in  this  respect  reminding  us  of  the  an- 
cient Central  American  structures  We  meet  the  same 


TEMPLES. 


393 


terraced  mounds  also  in  Eastern  Polynesia,  with  which 
Fiji  and  all  other  groups  of  the  South  Sea  share  the 
principal  features  of  religious  belief. 


FIJIAN    TEMPLE    (fiUEE    KALOIj). 

There  is  in  most  of  them  a  shrine,  where  the  god  is 
supposed  to  descend  when  holding  communication  with 
the  priests,  and  there  is  also  a  long  piece  of  native  cloth 


394  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

hung  at  one  end  of  the  building,  and  from  the  very  ceil- 
ing, which  is  also  connected  with  the  arrival  and  depar- 
ture of  the  god  invoked.  The  revelations,  however,  are 
made  by  means  of  the  spirit  of  the  god  entering  the  body 
of  the  priest,  who,  having  become  possessed,  begins  to 
tremble  most  violently,  and  in  this  excited  state  utters 
disjointed  sentences — supposed  to  be  the  revelations 
which  the  god  wishes  to  make  by  the  mouth  of  his  ser- 
vant. It  is  the  oracle  at  Delphi  over  again.  Mankind 
will  be  deceived,  whether  by  a  Fijian  priest,  a  Grecian 
Pythia,  or  an  American  spirit-rapper. 

The  conceptions  which  the  Fijians  have  of  the  origin 
of  their  islands  is,  that  they  were  made  and  peopled  by 
Degei.  This  god,  when  walking  along  the  beaches,  wore 
long  trains  of  native  cloth,  like  those  worn  by  great  chiefs 
at  the  present  day ;  and  whenever  he  allowed  them  to 
drag  the  ground,  the  beach,  becoming  free  from  vege- 
tation, showed  the  white  sand ;  whenever  he  took  them 
up,  and  cast  them  over  his  shoulder,  the  trees  and 
shrubs  remained  undisturbed.*  What  Humboldt  pointed 
out  as  one  of  the  characteristics  of  all  religions  is  not 
wanting  in  that  of  Fiji.  There  is  a  tradition  of  a  flood. 
Degei  was  roused  every  morning  by  the  cooing  of  a 
monstrous  bird,  called  "  Turukawa,"  who  performed  his 
duty  well  until  two  youths,  grandsons  of  the  god,  acci- 
dentally killed  it  with  bow  and  arrow,  and,  in  order  to 
conceal  their  deed,  buried  it.  Degei,  accustomed  to  be- 
ing roused  at  sunrise  by  his  favourite  bird,  was  greatly 
annoyed  on  finding  it  had  disappeared,  and  he  at  once 
dispatched  his  messenger,  Uto,  all  over  the  island  in 

*  Williams  ('  Fiji  and  the  Fijians/  p.  250)  makes  Boko  Mouta,  another 
god,  take  this  walk. 


TRADITION    OF    A    FLOOD.  395 

search  of  it ;  but  all  endeavours  to  discover  any  traces 
of  the  lost  one  proved  unsuccessful.  The  messenger  de- 
clared that  it  could  nowhere  be  found.  Degei  had  a 
fresh  search  instituted,  which  led  to  the  discovery  of  the 
body  of  the  dead  bird,  and  that  of  the  deed  which  had 
deprived  him  of  life.  The  two  youths,  fearing  Degei's 
anger,  fled  to  the  mountains  and  there  took  refuge  with 
a  powerful  tribe  of  carpenters,  who  willingly  agreed  to 
build  a  fence  strong  enough  to  keep  Degei  and  his  mes- 
sengers at  bay.  They  little  knew  the  power  they  had 
attempted  to  balk.  Degei,  finding  the  taking  of  the 
fence  by  storm  impossible,  caused  violent  rains  to  fall, 
and  the  waters  rose  to  such  a  height  that  at  last  they 
reached  the  place  where  the  two  youths  and  their  abet- 
tors had  fortified  themselves.  To  save  themselves  from 
drowning  they  jumped  into  large  bowls  that  happened 
to  be  at  hand,  and  in  these  they  were  scattered  in  vari- 
ous directions.  When  the  waters  subsided,  some  landed 
at  Suva,  some  at  Navua  and  Bega ;  and  it  is  from  them 
that  the  present  race  of  carpenters  and  canoe-builders 
claim  to  be  descended.* 

*  The  late  Rev.  J.  Hunt  lias  published  a  version  of  this  story,  which  he 
himself  terms  as  being  between  an  imitation  and  a  translation  of  the  original. 
I  quote  a  few  verses.     It  begins  with  one  of  the  boys  trying  his  arrow  : — 
"  '  I  '11  try,  I  mean  no  harm,  I  '11  only  try,' 
Pointing  his  arrow  as  he  fix'd  his  eye  : 
His  brother  strikes  his  hand,  the  arrow  flies, 
And  prostrate  at  their  feet  old  Turulcawa  lies. 

"  Stretch'd  on  the  fatal  ground,  upon  his  back, 
They  see  the  deadly  arrow's  fatal  track  ;i 
His  entrails  all  turn  out,  his  flowing  blood 
Stains  the  white  sand,  and  dyes  the  ocean  flood. 

"  '  This  is  no  common  bird,'  one  faintly  said, 
'  His  glaring  eyes  retain  their  crimson  red ; 


396  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

Those  who  make  a  philosophical  digest  of  such  myths 
as  these,  will  at  once  perceive  the  points  of  resemblance 
it  exhibits  with  the  Mosaic  narrative: — The  anger  of 
the  supreme  god  has  been  roused  by  certain  transgres- 

His  sacred  legs,  with  many  a  cowry  bound, 
Crash'd  as  the  monster  fell  upon  the  ground. 

"  '  My  brother,  can  it  be  ?  is  this  the  bird 
Whose  office  long  has  been  to  wake  the  god 
Whose  serpent  form  lies  coil'd  in  yonder  cave, 
Boasting  the  dreaded  power  to  kill  or  save  ? ' 

"  They  strip  him  of  his  coat,  by  Nature  given, 
And,  lo,  his  feathers  rise  in  clouds  to  heaven, 
Fly  o'er  the  mountains  on  the  gentle  breeze, 
Cover  the  mystic  grove  of  sacred  trees. 

"  A  grave,  at  once  convenient  and  secure, 
They  find  beneath  the  threshold  of  the  door ; 
They  bury  him  with  vows  of  self-defence, 
Should  Degei's  anger  visit  their  offence. 

"  The  god  lies  sleeping,  nor  has  power  to  wake; 
He  turns  himself,  and  rocks  and  mountains  quake ; 
When  gloomy  night  has  laid  aside  his  pall, 
He  lists  intent  for  Turukawas  call. 

"  Three  suns  have  risen,  but  no  call  he  hears  ; 
His  heart  now  beats  with  boding  god-like  fears  ; 
The  god,  exhausted  with  suspense  so  sore, 
Sends  Uto  his  dominions  to  explore. 

"  'Go  search  my  favourite  bird,  my  precious  store ; 
Oh,  shall  I  never  hear  his  cooing  more  ? 
If  distance  weary,  or  the  sun  shall  burn, 
Refreshing  draughts  shall  wait  thy  glad  return. 

"  '  Go  search  'rnong  tow'ring  heights,  'mong  vales  beneath, 
'Mong  gloomy  caverns,  and  the  cloud- capp'd  cliffs  ; 
There  dwell  the  murderers,  so  report  declares  ; 
Vengeance  shall  now  absorb  our  god-like  cares.'  " 

The  result  was,  that  Degei  made  war  on  the  two  youths,  but  without 
effect ;  he  then  caused  a  flood  of  water,  with  which  they  were  drifted  to 
the  Rewa  district. — The  mystic  grove  of  sacred  trees  referred  to  in  verse 
5,  are  the  Balaivas  (screw-pines)  at  the  top  of  Degei's  mountain,  which 


CREATION    AND    DESTRUCTION    OF    THE    WORLD.       397 

sions,  as  a  punishment  for  which  a  flood  rises ;  and  it  is 
only  by  embarking — not  in  ordinary  vessels — that  cer- 
tain people  save  their  lives,  afterwards  to  become  the 
progenitors  of  a  powerful  race.  But  there  is  one  essen- 
tial difference.  Whilst  Noah  and  his  family  were  saved 
Deo  volentc,  the  Fijian  transgressors  effected  their  escape 
notwithstanding  Degei  was  resolved  upon  their  destruc- 
tion. Williams  adds,  that  in  all,  eight  persons  were 
saved,  and  that  two  tribes  of  people  became  extinct, 
one  of  them  distinguished  by  a  tail  like  that  of  a  dog.* 

As  the  Fijians  believe  in  the  creation,  so  they  be- 
lieve in  the  ultimate  destruction,  of  the  world.  This 
appears  incidentally  from  their  tradition  of  the  Daiya, 
a  species  of  Amorphopliallus,  the  foliage  of  which  con- 
sists of  a  single  leaf,  supported  on  a  stalk  two  to  four 
feet  long,  and  spreading  out  somewhat  like  an  um- 
brella. In  the  cosmogony  of  the  Samoans,  the  office  of 
having,  by  means  of  its  single  foliage,  pushed  up  the 
heavens  when  they  emerged  from  chaos,  is  assigned  to 
this  plant,  and  the  Fijians  recommend  it  as  a  safe  place 
of  refuge  when  the  end  of  the  world  approaches,  the 
Daiga  being  a  "  vasu "  to  heaven  (Vasu  ki  lagi :  see 
p.  304). 

The  immortality  of  the  soul,  and  a  life  hereafter,  is 

are  sacred.  The  spirits  of  the  dead  are  said  to  throw  a  whale's  tooth  at 
these  trees,  that  their  wives  may  be  strangled.  When  a  shock  of  an 
earthquake  is  felt,  Degei  is  turning  himself.  This,  and  a  few  other  little 
things,  are  not  in  the  original. 

*  The  existence  of  savage  tribes  of  people  with  a  tail,  somewhere  in 
Africa,  has  as  a  popular  belief  been  frequently  alluded  to  in  the  newspapers. 
Dr.  Kieser,  the  President  of  the  Imperial  Academy  of  Germany,  has  made 
numerous  inquiries  about  them  ;  and  when  Heuglin  set  out  in  search  of 
Edward  Vogel,  his  attention  was  particularly  directed  to  this  singular  topic. 


398  A    MISSION   TO    V1TL 

one  of  the  canons  of  Fijian  belief.  It  is  from  this  con- 
viction that,  on  the  death  of  a  man,  be  he  chief  or  com- 
moner, all  his  wives  are  strangled,  so  that  he  may  not 
have  to  go  alone  on  his  journey  or  arrive  at  the  future 
abode  of  bliss  without  anybody  near  and  dear  to  him. 
Only  in  the  christianized  districts  has  this  cruel  custom 
been  abolished.  The  Tonguese  restricted  the  posses- 
sion of  a  soul  to  chiefs  and  gentry,  but  the  Fijians  go 
further,  allowing  it  not  only  to  all  mankind,  but  to 
animals,  plants,  and  even  houses,  canoes,  and  all  me- 
chanical contrivances.  The  ultimate  destination  of  the 
soul  is  Bulu,  identical  with  the  Tonguese  Bolotu,  and 
the  general  starting-place  (Cibicibi)  is  supposed  to  be  at 
Naicobocobo  (=  Naithombothombo),  the  extreme  west- 
ern or  lee  side  of  Vanua  Levu,  to  which  pilgrimages 
are  occasionally  made.  It  is  not  a  little  singular  that 
the  Fijians  agree  with  the  Tahitians,  Samoans,  Ton- 
guese, and  Maoris,  in  fixing  this  starting-place  inva- 
riably on  that  side  of  their  respective  countries.  The 
ancient  Egyptians,  it  will  be  remembered,  coincided 
with  them  in  supposing  their  souls  to  depart  westward/* 
But  I  must  not  accumulate  coincidences.  Those  theory- 
spinners  who  are  always  on  the  look-out  for  traces  of 
the  lost  tribes,  and  similar  losses  that  give  them  un- 
easiness, might  propound  an  hypothesis  purporting  to 
account  for  the  westward  movement  common  to  the 
souls  of  the  ancient  Egyptians  and  the  modern  Poly- 
nesians, and,  taking  a  hint  from  the  incidental  observa- 
tion that  Fijian  temples  have  somewhat  the  shape  of 

*  In  Tahiti  this  place  is  called  Fareaitu,  in  Samoa  Fafa ;  the  Maoris 
start  from  Cape  Maria  Van  Diemen. 


LIFE    HEREAFTER.  399 

pyramids,  and  that  "  lali "  in  Egyptian  means  '  to  re- 
joice/ and  that  "lali "  in  Fijian  is  the  name  of  a  drum- 
beater  when  people  do  rejoice,  advance  conclusions  of 
a  startling  description. 

About  live  miles  east  of  Naicobocobo  there  is  a  soli- 
tary barren  hill  on  the  top  of  which  grows  a  sacred 
screw-pine,  which  the  soul  of  a  married  man  must  hit 
with  the  spirit  of  the  whale's  tooth, — remember,  in 
Fiji  all  things  have  souls! — if  he  wishes  to  make  sure 
of  his  wives  being  strangled  to  follow  him  to  his  future 
abode.  A  similar  screw-pine  stood  on  the  east  end  of 
Vanua  Levu,  and  was  cut  down  by  Chief  Mara  (p.  229) ; 
and  I  may  further  add  that  an  identical  belief  attaches 
to  some  on  the  top  of  Degei's  mountain  :  so  that  super- 
stition seems  to  have  placed  these  trees  very  conveniently 
within  the  reach  of  all  who  desired  to  avail  themselves 
of  their  power. 

It  is  by  no  means  clear  where  Bulu,  the  ultimate 
abode  of  bliss,  is  situated,  and  whether  it  is,  as  in  the 
Tonguese  mythology,  a  distant  island ;  but  the  fact  that 
it  cannot  be  reached  except  in  a  canoe  shows  that  it  is 
separated  from  this  world  by  water,  across  which  the 
souls  have  to  be  ferried  by  the  Charon  of  Fiji.  Before 
embarking  they  have  to  do  battle  with  Samuyalo,  the 
killer  of  souls,  informed  of  their  approach  by  the  cries 
of  a  parroquet ;  should  they  conquer,  they  are  allowed  to 
pass  on  towards  the  judgment-seat  of  Degei,  but  if  they 
should  be  wounded  or  defeated,  they  have  to  wander 
amongst  the  mountains.  Again,  if  to  any  questions  they 
should  return  untrue  answers,  Samuyalo  gives  the  lie 
direct  and  fells  them  to  the  ground.  Bachelors  have  a 
still  greater  difficulty  to  encounter,  and  stand  scarcely 


400  A   MISSION    TO    VITI. 

any  chance  whatever  of  getting  to  Bulu.  First  they  have 
to  meet  the  spirit  of  a  great  woman,  and,  having  eluded 
her  fatal  grasp,  face  a  still  more  powerful  foe.  Naga- 
naga,  a  bitter  hater  of  all  unmarried  men,  is  on  the 
look-out  for  them,  and  if  he  catches  them,  dashes  them 
to  pieces  on  a  large  black  stone. 

Some  of  the  traditions  speak  of  Bulu  as  Lagi  (  = 
Langi),  the  sky,  the  heavens;  others  again  as  being 
under  the  water  :  all  however  assert  that  in  this  future 
abode  there  are  several  districts.  The  names  of  Lagi 
tua  dua,  Lagi  tua  rua,  and  Lagi  tua  tolu,  the  first,  the 
second,  and  the  third  heavens,  are  given  to  them  by  one 
set  of  traditions,  and  that  of  Murimuria  and  Burotu  by 
the  others.  Murimuria  seems  to  be  a  district  of  infe- 
rior happiness,  where  punishments  and  rewards  are 
awarded.  Burotu  is  the  Fijian  Elysium,  where  all  that 
the  natives  most  desire,  value,  and  enjoy,  is  abundant. 
The  manly  nature  of  the  Fijian  is  nowhere  better  dis- 
played than  in  the  conception  of  his  future  abode.  He 
does  not  expect  to  exist  there  in  indolent  ease,  reclining 
on  soft  couches,  and  sipping  nectar  handed  by  lovely 
houris,  but  hopes  to  resume  all  the  out-door  exercises 
to  which  he  has  been  habituated  during  his  stay  on 
earth.  Food  will  be  plentiful,  it  is  true,  but  there  will 
be  lots  of  canoes,  plenty  of  sailing,  fishing,  and  sporting 
— plenty  of  action.  In  fact,  he  hopes  to  lead  very  much 
the  same  life  as  he  does  here,  and  his  admiration  for 
fine,  well  developed  people  will  be  gratified ;  for,  if  ac- 
counts may  be  trusted,  all  will  be  larger  than  they  were 
on  earth.  There  does  not  seem  to  be  any  separation 
between  the  abodes  of  the  good  and  the  wicked,  nothing 
that  corresponds  to  our  heaven  and  hell,  no  fire  and 


PROPS    OF    SUPERSTITION.  401 

brimstone.  Punishment  is  evidently  inflicted  upon 
evil-doers  in  the  same  locality  where  the  good  enjoy 
their  fair  rewards.  Women,  not  tatooed,  are  chased 
T)y  their  own  sex,  allowed  no  repose,  scraped  up  with 
shells  and  made  into  bread  for  the  gods.  Men  who 
have  not  slain  any  enemy  are  compelled  to  beat  dirt 
with  their  club, — the  most  degrading  punishment  the 
native  mind  can  conceive, — because  they  used  their  club 
to  so  little  purpose.  Others  are  laid  flat  on  their  faces 
and  converted  into  taro-beds. 

In  order  to  uphold  the  whole  fabric  of  heathen 
superstition,  the  priests  had  recourse  to  the  same 
means  which  all  religions  have  had  in  dealing  with 
doubting  minds.  Punishment  was  sure  to  overtake 
the  sceptic,  let  his  station  in  life  be  what  it  might. 
What  could  be  more  terrible  than  that  which  was  in- 
flicted upon  Koroika'?  He,  a  chief  high  in  rank  at 
Bau,  made  bold  to  doubt  the  existence  of  the  god 
Ratu  mai  Bulu  ;  and,  as  the  god  was  then  enshrined  in  a 
serpent  of  a  neighbouring  cave,  he  determined  to  put 
the  question  to  the  test.  Embarking  in  a  canoe  with 
a  cargo  of  fish,  he  steered  for  the  very  spot  where  the 
god  was  reported  to  be.  On  arriving,  a  serpent  issued 
from  the  cave  ;  and  the  chief  asked,  "  Please,  good  Sir, 
are  you  the  god  Ratu  mai  Bulu  V9  "  No,  I  am  not,"  was 
the  reply;  "I  am  his  son."  The  chief  made  him  a 
present  of  fish,  and  requested  an  interview  with  his 
father.  Presently  another  serpent  appeared,  but  that 
proved  to  be  the  grandson,  and  the  same  present  and 
request  was  made  to  him  as  had  been  made  to  the  son, 
At  length  there  issued  a  serpent,  so  large,  so  noble  and 

2  D 


402  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

commanding,  as  to  leave  little  doubt  in  the  mind  of  the 
chief  that  the  god  himself  was  now  before  him.  Fish 
was  presented  to  him ;  and  just  as  the  god  was  retiring 
with  it,  Koroika  hit  him  with  an  arrow,  and  then  re- 
treated in  all  possible  haste.  But  the  voice  of  the  god 
followed  him,  exclaiming,  "  Nought  but  serpents  !— 
nought  but  serpents !"  Arrived  at  home,  and  scarcely 
recovered  from  his  state  of  agitation,  he  ordered  dinner 
to  be  brought.  The  cover  was  removed  from  the  pot, 
when,  oh !  horror,  it  was  full  of  serpents !  The  chief 
seized  a  jug  of  water,  saying,  "At  any  rate,  I  will  drink ;" 
but,  instead  of  the  limpid  fluid,  he  poured  out  crawling 
serpents.  Unable  to  eat  or  drink,  he  sought  comfort  in 
sleep.  He  unrolled  his  mat,  and  was  in  the  act  of  lying 
down  upon  it,  when  innumerable  serpents  appeared. 
Mad  with  excitement,  he  rushes  out  of  doors,  and  pass- 
ing a  temple,  hears,  to  his  dismay,  a  priest  revealing 
that  the  god  has  been  wounded  by  the  hand  of  a  citizen, 
and  that  punishment  will  overtake  the  city.  There  is 
now  no  escape  but  to  make  a  suitable  atonement  for  the 
terrible  offence  committed.  He  returns  home,  collects 
all  the  valuables  he  can  lay  his  hands  on,  presents  them 
to  the  god,  is  pardoned,  and  his  name  handed  down  to 
unborn  generations  as  a  sceptic,  and  a  fit  example  of 
the  danger  to  which  all  men  of  his  disposition  expose 
themselves.* 

A  different  but  equally  severe  punishment  awaited 
unbelievers  in  Bulu.  One  day,  two  young  men  paint 
and  oil  themselves,  and  put  on  a  new  piece  of  native 
cloth  (just  as  the  dead  are  prepared  for  the  grave),  and 

*  Compare  Waterliouse,  '  Vah-ta-ali,'  p.  46. 


FATE    OF    SCEPTICS.  403 

approach  Naicobocobo.  One  calls,  "  Please,  Sir,  we  want 
a  canoe  to  take  us  to  Bulu."  An  invisible  hand  places 
a  canoe,  built  of  the  timber  of  the  breadfruit  tree, 
within  their  reach.  "  Oh,  Sir,"  said  the  spokesman,  "  we 
are  not  slaves ;  we  want  to  go  to  Bulu  like  chiefs." 
The  canoe  is  withdrawn,  and  its  place  supplied  with 
one  built  of  ironwood.  No  sooner  is  it  near  them,  than 
the  sceptics  throw  their  spears  at  it,  and  exclaim,  with 
a  derisive  laugh,  "  Oh,  we  are  not  going  to  die  just  yet." 
A  voice  was  heard,  "  Young  men,  unbelievers,  you  have 
called  for  two  canoes :  they  have  not  returned  empty  ; 
both  have  conveyed  your  own  relatives.  There  is  death 
in  the  houses  of  both  of  you."  Thoroughly  alarmed, 
they  hurry  home.  The  sounds  of  wailing  are  heard  as 
they  near  their  town.  Both  their  mothers  are  dead. 

But  I  must  conclude,  for  fear  that  I  may  be  served  as 
Dr.  Brower,  the  American  Consul  in  Fiji,  served  a  man 
residing  on  his  estate  at  Wakaya,  who  nightly  would 
persist  in  attracting  all  the  boys  of  the  neighbourhood 
by  telling  stories,  and  inflaming  their  youthful  imagina- 
tion to  such  an  extent,  that  not  one  of  them  would  stir 
abroad  for  fear  of  meeting  some  of  the  mighty  person- 
ages to  wrhom  he  had  been  introduced.  Dr.  Brower, 
not  liking  the  whole  troop  to  sleep  on  his  premises, 
hit  upon  the  expedient  of  requesting  the  story-teller 
to  accompany  every  one  of  those  he  had  frightened  to 
his  respective  home,  and,  as  the  youthful  listeners  live 
in  every  direction  of  the  compass,  it  takes  him  a  good 
time  to  comply  with  the  request ;  still,  it  does  not 
prevent  him  from  again  and  again  indulging  in  his 
old  weakness  of  telling  fairy  and  ghost  stories. 

2  D  2 


404 


CHAPTER   XX. 

HISTORICAL    BEMAEKS    ON   FIJI. — DISCOVEEY   OF    THE    ISLANDS. — SANDAL- 
WOOD    TEADEES. EAELY    WHITE     SETTLEES. — MISSIONAEIES. FOBEIGN- 

EES  AT  PEESENT  RESIDING  IN  THE  GBOUP. — MY  DEPAETUEE  FEOM  FIJI 
IN  THE  'STAGHOUND.' — TEEEIFIC  STOEM  OFF  LOED  HOWE'S  ISLAND. — 
AEEIVAL  IN  SYDNEY. — EETUEN  TO  ENGLAND. — CONCLUSION. 

BEFORE  bidding  farewell  to  the  islands,  I  must  say  a  few 
words  about  their  history  as  connected  with  the  white 
race.  In  the  year  1643,  Abel  Jansen  Tasman,  when  ex- 
ploring the  South  Seas,  discovered,  between  longitudes 
19°  50'  E.  and  180°  8'  W.,  a  group  of  islands  which  he 
named  "  Prince  William's  Island,"  and  which  the  inhabi- 
tants collectively  term  "Viti,"  and  the  Tonguese,  who  can- 
not pronounce  the  v,  as  well  as  other  nations  who  have 
not  this  excuse,  erroneously  designate  as  "  Fiji,"  spelt  in 
a  variety  of  ways.  Although  nearly  two  centuries  have 
elapsed  since  the  event,  this  archipelago  of  more  than 
two  hundred  islands  was  only  nominally  known  until 
visited  by  D'Urville  and  Wilkes;  Captain  Cook,  who 
merely  sighted  Vatoa  or  Turtle  Island,  Captain  Bligh, 
who  twice  passed  through  parts  of  this  group,  and 
Captain  Wilson,  of  the  '  Duff,'  whose  vessel  was  nearly 
lost  on  the  reef  off  Taviuni,  having  scarcely  added 
any  save  secondhand  information  to  our  stock  of  know- 
ledge. 


HISTORICAL   REMARKS.  405 

Towards  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  and  the  begin- 
ning of  the  present  century,  Viti  began  to  be  visited  by 
vessels  from  the  East  Indies  in  search  of  sandalwood 
and  beche-de-mer,  or  Trepang,  for  the  Chinese  market. 
At  that  time  the  aborigines  were  regarded  as  ferocious 
savages,  and  great  caution  was  exercised  by  the  traders 
in  dealing  with  them.  The  vessels  were  well  armed,  and 
none  of  the  crew  ventured  on  shore  until  chiefs  of  high 
rank  had  been  sent  on  board  as  hostages,  only  to  be  given 
up  after  all  business  transactions  had  been  concluded, 
and  the  loaded  vessels  were  far  enough  at  sea  to  be  safe 
from  surprise  or  any  sudden  attack.  Some  of  these  vessels 
were  wrecked,  on  board  of  others  mutinies  occurred,  and 
the  crew  took  up  its  residence  on  shore ;  again,  between 
some  of  the  traders  differences  arose,  which  induced  the 
natives  to  attack  the  foreign  vessels,  and  kill  the  whole 
or  portion  of  their  crew.  These  were  the  materials 
which  probably  formed  the  first  white  immigration.  In 
1860,  there  was  at  Cakaudrove  an  old  Manila  man, 
named  Jetro,  who  had  been  a  boy  on  board  a  sandal- 
wood  ship,  and  who  gave  me  a  detailed  account  of  the 
murder  of  the  captain  by  the  crew,  the  goods  being 
given  up  to  the  king  of  Bau  because  no  one  was  able 
to  navigate  the  ship,  which  had  to  be  abandoned,  and 
it  being  thought  best  to  purchase  the  goodwill  of  a 
powerful  chief  in  order  that  the  mutineers  might  have  a 
protector.  Jetro  could  give  no  clue  to  the  date  of  this 
event,  except  that  it  took  place  shortly  after  Charles 
Savage  had  died,  which  would  make  it  about  the  year 
1814. 

Charles  Savage  is  said  to  have  been  a  Swede  by  birth. 


406  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

T.Williams*  thought  him  to  have  been  one  of  a  number 
of  convicts  who  in  1804  effected  their  escape  from  New 
South  Wales ;  but,  according  to  more  authentic  informa- 
tion,f  he  was  an  honest  sailor  belonging  to  the  American 
brig  'Eliza,'  wrecked  in  Fiji  in  1808,  and  of  which  Dil- 
lon was  mate.  He  seems  to  have  possessed  some  redeem- 
ing qualities,  was  acknowledged  as  a  head-man  b.y  the 
companions  of  his  own  race,  and  acquired  great  ascen- 
dency at  Ban,  the  capital  of  the  group.  Up  to  this  time 
the  natives  seem  to  have  solely  depended  upon  clubs, 
spears,  and  slings,  for  success  in  intertribal  wars.  The 
foreigners  who  had  now  come  amongst  them  taught 
them  the  use  of  fire-arms,  rendering  the  teachers  highly 
welcome  allies  to  the  states  then  struggling  for  supre- 
macy in  the  group.  Bau  and  Rewa  received  them  with 
open  arms,  and  in  return  for  their  alliance  gratified  all 
their  whims  and  demands,  of  whatever  nature  they  might 
happen  to  be.  From  the  ascendency  thus  acquired,  it 
would  have  seemed  that  the  absolute  government  of  the 
whole  Fijis  lay  within  their  grasp,  if  their  ambition,  rising 
beyond  a  life  of  indolence,  had  prompted  them  to  con- 
solidate and  improve  the  power  thus  won ;  however, 
this  was  far  from  being  the  case.  There  is  good  proof 
that  Savage  at  least  made  a  fair  attempt  to  take  advan- 
tage of  these  favourable  circumstances.  Firmly  esta- 
blishing himself  at  Bau,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  most 
powerful  Fijian  state,  he  exacted  all  the  honours  paid 
to  exalted  chiefs,  and,  knowing  that  no  man  can  attain 

*  '  Fiji  and  the  Fijians/  p.  3. 

t  Dillon,  '  Discovery  of  the  Fate  of  De  la  Perouse,'  vol.  i. ;  Captain 
•I.  Erskine,  '  Western  Pacific,'  p.  197. 


EARLY    WHITE    SETTLERS.  407 

position  in  Polynesia  who  is  not  a  polygamist,  he  de- 
manded a  number  of  wives,  amongst  them  some  of  the 
highest  ladies  of  the  realm.  Thus  far  his  native  friends 
seem  to  have  been  willing  to  allow  his  carefully  con- 
cealed plan  to  succeed.  Every  additional  step  in  advance 
was  rendered  impossible ;  the  natives  were  fully  aware 
that  if  any  of  his  sons  whom  a  great  chief,  as  Savage  was 
considered  to  be,  had  by  the  daughters  of  powerful  kings 
and  leaders,  should  ever  attain  manhood,  they  would  be 
in  a  position  to  exercise  an  unmitigated  despotism,  and 
set  on  foot  a  centralizing  influence,  which  the  centrifu- 
gal tendency  of  the  Fijian  mind  has  ever  as  strongly  re- 
sisted as  the  Teutonic.  According  to  Fijian  polity,  the 
sons  of  great  queens,  such  as  Savage  had  for  his  wives, 
would,  in  virtue  of  their  right  as  "  Vasus"  or  nephews, 
hold  the  territory  and  property  of  their  uncles  at  their 
absolute  disposal,  which,  combined  with  their  position 
as  sons  of  a  great  chief,  would  have  given  them  an  im- 
mense preponderance.  It  was  therefore  deemed  politic 
to  allow  none  of  Savage's  children  to  be  other  than 
still-born;  he  might  have  wives  of  the  highest  rank, 
but  there  must  be  no  offspring.  On  this  point  the  na- 
tives seem  to  have  been  inflexible,  though  Savage  seemed 
to  have  strained  every  nerve  to  frustrate  their  cruel  de- 
termination. The  stand  which  the  natives  made,  became 
the  rock  on  which  the  hopes  of  the  white  men  to  esta- 
blish their  permanent  sway  in  Fiji  were  wrecked.  Savage 
died  in  March,  1814,  near  Vanua  Levu,  where  he  carried 
on  a  war  with  the  natives  in  order  to  procure  a  cargo  of 
sandalwood  for  an  English  trading  vessel,  the  '  Hunter,' 
of  Calcutta.  Together  with  portions  of  the  crew,  he  was 


408  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

put  to  death  and  eaten,  whilst  his  hones  were  converted 
into  sail-needles,  and  distributed  amongst  the  people  as 
a  remembrance  of  victory.* 

However,  it  was  not  only  from  shipwrecked  mariners 
and  runaway  seamen,  that  the  early  white  population 
was  recruited.  In  1804,  a  number  of  convicts  escaped 
from  New  South  Wales,  in  all  about  twenty-six,  who  took 
up  their  abode  in  Fiji,  who  however  died  out  rather  ra- 
pidly, either  in  the  intertribal  wars,  in  desperate  fights 
amongst  themselves,  or  in  consequence  of  the  irregular 
life  led  in  a  tropical  climate.  In  1824  only  two,  in  1840 
only  one  of  them,  an  Irishman  of  the  name  of  Connor, 
survived,  who  occupied  the  same  position  towards  -the 
king  of  Rewa  as  Savage  had  done  towards  that  of  Bau. 
Connor  does  not  seem  to  have  been  of  such  a  deep,  plod- 
ding nature  as  his  comrade,  or  to  have  troubled  his  head 
much  about  the  affairs  of  the  future.  Even  when,  after 
the  loss  of  his  royal  patron,  misfortune  overtook  him, 
he  appears  to  have  preserved  all  the  humour  for  which 
his  nation  is  proverbial,  and  was  fully  aware  that  the 
natives  would  never  let  him  starve  as  long  as  he  could 
while  away  an  idle  hour  by  the  narration  of  a  telling 
tale — upon  which  he  depended  towards  the  close  of  his 
clays,  quite  as  much,  or  perhaps  even  more,  for  a  liveli- 
hood, than  upon  the  rearing  of  fowls  and  pigs. 

On  the  whole,  the  natives  seem  to  have  treated  the 
first  white  men  that  came  to  live  among  them  with  hos- 
pitality and  kindness.  This  is  exactly  what,  from  the 
nature  of  their  country,  might  have  been  predicted.  A 
sanguinary  custom  may  have  demanded  that  bodies  slain 

«.  *  Dillon,  '  Discovery  of  the  Fate  of  De  la  Perouse.' 


EAHLY    WHITE    SETTLEHS.  409 

in  battle  should  be  baked  and  eaten,  but  the  Fijian  never 
displayed  that  determined  hostility  towards  foreigners 
which  is  common  to  all  natives  in  their  barbarous  state, 
and  found  vent  even  in  civilized  countries  in  a  system 
of  protective  laws,  which  modern  science  still  struggles 
to  clear  away.  In  some  of  the  Smaller  islands  of  Poly- 
nesia, where  food  is  scarce,  and  famine  a  common  occur- 
rence, every  addition  to  the  population  is  regarded 
rather  as  a  calamity  than  as  a  matter  of  rejoicing,  and 
the  shores  are  jealously  guarded  against  an  infliction  by 
which  the  whole  community  must  suffer.  It  is  therefore 
emphatically  islands  of  this  nature  which  our  tract 
charts  still  mark  as  the  most  dangerous  for  landing. 
Viti,  on  the  contrary,  is  so  fertile,  that  food,  as  a  general 
rule,  is  abundant  at  all  seasons;  and  its  inhabitants 
being  well  fed,  and  taking  plenty  of  out-door  exercise, 
do  not  seriously  differ  from  other  nations  who  enjoy  the 
same  advantages.  A  man  who  has  every  day  a  good 
dinner  is  a  differently-disposed  being  from  him  who  has 
to  go  very  often  without  his  daily  meals ;  and  the  same 
process  continued  for  generations  must  produce  very 
opposite  results  in  their  respective  characters.  If  any 
of  the  early  white  settlers  met  with  a  violent  end,  it 
was  generally  the  foreigner,  not  the  native,  that  fur- 
nished its  primary  cause.  Taking  undue  advantage  of 
the  easy  terms  on  which  they  lived  with  the  chiefs,  the 
white  men  often  applied  insulting  epithets  or  used  foul 
language  to  their  hosts  and  protectors,  provoking  that 
contempt  which  familiarity,  with  a  certain  class  of  minds, 
invariably  engenders.  It  was  generally  language  of 
this  kind,  or  demands  which  the  chiefs  deemed  it  below 


410  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

their  dignity  to  comply  with,  which  led  to  fatal  conse- 
quences. 

Some  of  the  old  convict  gang  were  still  alive  when 
a  few  of  a  more  respectable  class  of  white  traders  and 
missionaries  took  up  their  ahode  in  the  group,  princi- 
pally at  Lakeba,  Levukn,  and  Eewa.  Of  the  traders  we 
know  little  except  the  incidental  notices  here  and  there 
preserved ;  but  of  the  doings  of  the  missionaries  ample 
records  have  been  placed  before  the  world  in  their  own 
publications.  When  the  latter  commenced  their  labours 
the  political  state  of  Fiji  was  little  understood,  and  we 
can  therefore  not  wonder  that  they  should  have  made  a 
serious  mistake  in  the  very  outset.  They  began  their 
work  of  christianization  at  Lakeba,  one  of  the  windward 
islands.  Now  Lakeba  is  dependent  on  Cakaudrove,  and 
the  chiefs  of  the  latter  state  were  naturally  jealous  to 
see  vassals  assume  a  greater  importance  than  themselves, 
and  they  opposed  the  spread  of  the  new  doctrine  with 
all  means  in  their  power.  When,  after  a  time,  mission- 
aries established  themselves  at  Somosomo,  then  the  ca- 
pital of  Cakaudrove,  at  Viwa  and  Rewa,  they  struggled 
against  similar  disadvantages.  These  three  states  were 
more  or  less  dependent  on  Bau,  and  Bau,  irritated  at  see- 
ing its  subordinates  in  possession  of  all  the  good  things 
that  an  active  intercourse  with  the  Christian  teachers 
threw  in  their  way,  tried  to  crush  the  new  doctrine  by 
its  mighty  influence.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  many 
atrocities  were  committed  in  the  native  capital,  merely 
to  prove  how  little  Bau  was  influenced  by  the  religious 
change  going  on  in  other  parts  of  the  group.  It  appears 
that  at  an  early  date  Cakobau  had  invited  the  mission- 


REASONS    OF   BAU'S    HOSTILITY    TO    MISSIONARIES.     411 

aries  to  come  to  Bau,  but  that  they  did  not  put  sufficient 
confidence  in  him.  The  doubt  thus  cast  upon  his  ho- 
nour, together  with  the  constant  irritation  of  seeing 
parts  of  the  group  under  the  suzerainty  of  Bau  daring 
to  desert  heathenism  when  still  upheld  by  the  leading 
state,  and  a  daily  diminishing  political  influence,  turned 
King  Cakobau  into  a  deadly  foe  to  Christianity.  Had 
the  missionaries  taken  the  bull  by  horns,  and  endea- 
voured to  obtain  a  footing  at  Bau  before  they  took  up 
their  residence  in  any  other  part  of  the  group,  their 
labours  would  have  been  easy  in  comparison  to  what 
they  have  been,  and  the  whole  group  would  have  re- 
nounced heathenism  long  ere  this.*  It  was  all  up-hill 
work,  yet  results  have  been  attained,  to  which  no  right- 
minded  man  can  refuse  admiration.  According  to  the 
latest  returns,  the  attendance  on  Christian  worship  in 
1861  was  67,489,  and  there  were  31,566  in  the  day- 
schools.  For  the  supervision  of  this  great  work  the  So- 
ciety had  only  eleven  European  missionaries  and  two 
schoolmasters,  assisted  by  a  large  class  of  native  agents, 
who  are  themselves  the  fruits  of  mission  toil,  and  some 
of  whom,  once  degraded  and  cannibal  heathens,  are  be- 
coming valuable  and  accredited  ministers  of  the  Gospel. 
The  white  settlers  at  present  in  the  group  may 
amount  to  about  two  thousand  souls,  the  greater  num- 
ber of  whom  have  arrived  within  the  last  few  years  and 

*  Cakobau  "was  offended  with  Mr.  Cross,  because  he  would  not  trust 
himself  at  Bau  on  his  first  visit,  but  turned  aside  and  opened  a  mission  at 
Bewa.  The  proud  spirit  of  the  chief  was  hurt  at  being  placed  second." 
(Calvert,  '  Fiji  and  the  Fijians/  vol.  ii.  p.  234.)  Additional  passages 
might  be  cited  from  missionary  writings  to  prove  the  view  I  have  taken  of 
Bau's  hostility. 


412  A   MISSION   TO    VITI. 

principally  taken  up  their  residence  in  Levuka  and  the 
Hewa  districts.  They  are  traders,  agriculturists,  and  sheep 
farmers.  Several  have  turned  their  attention  to  cotton 
growing.  Most  of  them  live  in  native-built  houses,  and 
only  a  few,  including  the  consuls  and  missionaries, 
have  weather-boarded  houses.  They  belong  to  all  na- 
tions ;  I  have  seen  English,  Americans,  Germans, 
French,  Poles,  and  Russians-,  but  the  greater  number 
are  British  subjects.  Nearly  all  have  acquired  more  or 
less  land  from  the  natives,  and  several  have  bought  ex- 
tensive tracts.  Small  islands  are  in  great  request,  and 
generally  paid  for  at  a  much  higher  rate  than  pieces  on 
the  larger  islands,  which  require  fencing  in,  and  are  apt 
to  give  rise  to  disputes  about  boundaries.  All  the  land 
sold  is  registered  at  the  British  Consulate,  and  Mr.  Prit- 
chard,  before  he  did  so,  was  always  very  careful  to  have 
the  sellers  acknowledge  before  him,  and  in  the  pre- 
sence of  a  number  of  their  townsmen,  that  they  were  sa- 
tisfied with  the  bargain  and  had  obtained  the  price  -stipu- 
lated. The  land  originally  belongs  either  to  individuals  or 
to  whole  families,  and  the  title  confirmed  by  the  ruling 
chiefs  is  supposed  to  be  good.  From  what  I  saw,  I  be- 
lieve that  in  most  instances  a  fair  price  is  given,  remem- 
bering that  the  very  best  land  in  America  may  be  had 
for  a  dollar  and  a  quarter  an  acre ;  and  that  those  who 
are  willing  to  build  a  house,  may  have  so-called  bit-land 
for  about  sixpence  per  acre.  Since  the  Fijis  have  be- 
come a  field  for  immigration  the  land  has  considerably 
risen,  and  I  have  seen,  as  already  stated,  £10  per  acre 
refused.  The  greatest  landed  proprietor  was  perhaps  the 
late  Mr.  Williams,  United  States  Consul.  Mr.  Binner, 


DEPARTURE   FROM   FIJI.  413 

Wesleyan  training-master,  also  owns  large  tracts  and  a 
great  many  small  islands.  The  land  is  paid  for  in 
barter,  cotton  prints,  cutlery,  muskets,  powder  and  shot. 
Parties  desirous  of  establishing  plantations  will  have  no 
difficulty  in  obtaining  any  amount  of  good  land  near 
rivers  or  the  sea.  Labour  can  be  had  to  some  extent  in 
Fiji,  but  Polynesians  will  work  much  better  if  they  are 
not  in  their  own  islands ;  and  hands  might  be  had  by 
running  over  to  Rotuma,  Foturia,  Were,  Earatonga,  and 
the  New  Hebrides ;  indeed  some  of  the  best  working 
men  and  women  I  saw  in  Fiji  were  obtained  from  those 
sources. 

On  the  2nd  of  November  we  returned  to  Lado,  from 
our  voyage  around  Vanua  Levu.  We  had  left  Nuku- 
bati  on  the  30th  of  October,  and  called  at  Solevu  and 
Levuka.  On  the  7th  of  November  the  'Staghound,' 
Captain  Sustenance,  arrived  from  Tahiti  and  Samoa, 
and,  as  I  had  seen  as  much  of  Fiji  as  was  accessible 
and  gathered  all  the  information  I  had  been  directed 
to  accumulate,  I  engaged  a  passage  in  her  for  Sydney. 
There  were  several  passengers  on  board ;  two  having 
come  from  Tonga,  where  they  had  established  sheep- 
runs;  and  one  had  been  over  a  great  part  of  Fiji,  to 
j  udge  for  himself  about  the  capabilities  of  the  group  for 
colonization.  From  what  I  could  gather  from  conversa- 
tion, he  had  been  sent  out  by  a  party  of  friends,  all  of 
whom  were  desirous  of  investing  capital  in  the  islands 
if  his  report  should  prove  favourable.  He  spoke  in 
high  terms  of  the  country,  and  its  resources. 

I  left  Levuka  on  the  16th  of  November,  and  two  days 
after  lost  sight  of  Kadavu  and  the  Fiji  group.  On  the 


414  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

22nd  we  were  out  of  the  tropics,  on  the  26th  near  Nor- 
folk Island,  and  on  the  3rd  of  December  off  Lord  Howe 
Island.  Here  we  encountered  a  series  of  the  most  awful 
electric  storms  it  has  ever  been  my  misfortune  to  pass 
through.  The  wind  and  waves  were  very  high,  the 
peals  of  thunder  truly  terrific,  and  sheet  and  flash  light- 
ning without  interruption  from  dusk  till  dawn.  Our 
vessel  was  struck  several  times  by  the  lightning,  and 
two  men  were  seriously  injured.  I  was  fully  prepared 
for  going  down,  as  it  seemed  almost  impossible  to  sur- 
vive a  storm,  to  which  all  I  had  previously  witnessed  in 
the  tropics  could  not  be  compared  in  intensity  and  vio- 
lence. The  St.  Elmo's  fire  on  the  masthead  and  rigging 
gave  a  peculiarly  ghastly  appearance  to  the  vessel  when 
the  darkness  of  night  was  restored  by  the  momentary 
cessation  of  the  lightning.  The  men  got  terribly  fright- 
ened, and  the  rope's-end  had  to  be  used  freely  to  make 
them  do  their  duty.  Captain  Sustenance,  every  inch  a 
sailor,  took  the  helm  himself,  and  never  quitted  his 
post  till  all  was  safe.  His  powerful  voice  could  be  heard 
through  the  storm,  and  was  almost  the  only  thing  that 
inspired  confidence,  when  all  the  elements  seemed  to 
be  bent  upon  our  destruction. 

Otherwise  our  passage  was  a  very  pleasant  one.  Cap- 
tain Sustenance  had  been  in  the  Royal  Navy,  and  seen, 
heard,  and  read  a  good  deal,  so  that  we  were  never  hard 
up  for  topics  of  conversation.  When  on  the  10th  of 
December  we  dropped  anchor  in  Sydney  Harbour,  we 
had  as  much  to  talk  about  as  wiien  first  stepping  on 
board  at  Levuka,  To  ascertain  a  man's  mental  calibre, 
no  place  is  better  suited  than  on  board  a  ship.  The 


CONCLUSION.  415 

generality  of  men  are  very  dull  company  after  the  first 
few  days ;  they  have  exhausted  their  little  store  of  con- 
versation, and,  having  no  newspapers  and  clubhouses  to 
supply  them  with  fresh  matter,  they  have  absolutely 
nothing  to  say,  even  their  autobiographies  refusing  to 
yield  any  new  or  interesting  matter. 

The  collections  I  had  dispatched  to  Sydney  had  safely 
arrived  and  were  well  taken  care  of  by  Mr.  Moore,  the 
director  of  the  Botanic  Garden.  As  the  '  Jeddo,'  the 
next  "  Peninsular  and  Oriental "  steamer  for  England,  did 
not  leave  before  the  22nd  of  December,  I  took  advan- 
tage of  my  stay  to  arrange  and  repack  my  treasures,  and 
Mr.  Moore's  library  and  commodious  premises  were  of 
the  greatest  service  to  me  for  that  purpose.  I  remained 
all  the  time  Mr.  Moore's  guest,  as  I  had  been  on  a  for- 
mer occasion,  and  enjoyed  very  much  the  fine  garden 
in  which  his  house  is  situated.  Mr.  Moore  delivers  every 
season  a  series  of  lectures  on  botany,  and  during  my  stay 
the  distribution  of  prizes  took  place  in  the  presence  of 
a  numerous  assembly.  Dr.  George  Bennett  having  only 
recently  given  a  graphic  description  of  the  Sydney  garden 
in  his  '  Gatherings  of  a  Naturalist  in  Australasia,'  I 
shall  not  dwell  on  a  subject  to  me  so  tempting,  and  one 
that  confers  great  credit  upon  the  zealous  director  of 
the  institution. 

Leaving  Sydney  on  the  22nd  of  December,  we  made 
Melbourne  on  Christmas  Eve,  and  King  George's  Sound 
on  the  31st  of  December.  Thence  my  voyage  led  to 
Point  de  Galle,  Ceylon,  Egypt,  and  Malta,  whence  I  took 
the  French  steamer  and  paid  a  visit  to  Sicily  and  Italy, 
ascending  Vesuvius  in  company  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  George 


416  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

Macleay,  and,  returning  again  to  Malta,  reached  South- 
ampton on  the  12th  of  March,  1861,  with  no  other  acci- 
dent than  the  breaking  of  the  main  shaft  of  the  engine, 
between  Valetta  and  Gibraltar. 

The  war  in  New  Zealand  continuing,  it  soon  became 
apparent  that  the  British  Government  had  no  inclination 
to  accept  the  cession  of  Fiji,  but  the  fact  was  not  officially 
known  until  May,  1862,  when  the  Wesleyan  body  had 
intimation  of  it.  They  had  written,  it  appears,  a  letter 
asking  for  information,  and  stating  at  the  same  time 
that  if  her  Majesty's  Government  should  accept  the  ces- 
sion, they  should  feel  very  much  pleased  if  Colonel 
Smythe  was  appointed  Governor  of  the  new  colony. 
Since  then  the  official  correspondence  relative  to  the 
Fijian  islands  has  been  laid  before  Parliament ;  and  the 
public  has  now  ample  materials  to  form  an  opinion  on 
the  whole  subject.  I  have  simply  written  an  unvar- 
nished account  of  all  I  heard  and  saw,  and  refrained  from 
discussing  the  rejection  of  so  fine  a  country  from  a  poli- 
tical point  of  view.  I  have  no  doubt  as  to  the  future  of 
Fiji.  The  importance  of  the  group  once  recognized, 
nothing  will  stop  our  race  from  taking  possession  of  it, 
and  replacing  barbarism  and  strife  by  civilization  and 
peaceful  industry. 


APPENDIX. 


I.  REPORT  OF  ADMIRAL  WASHINGTON,  R.N. 
II.  REPORT  OF  COLONEL  SMYTHE,  R.A. 

III.  SYSTEMATIC  LIST  OF  ALL  THE  FIJIAN  PLANTS 
AT  PRESENT  KNOWN. 


APPENDIX. 


I.— REPORT   OF   ADMIRAL   WASHINGTON,  R.N. 

IN  accordance  with    the  Board  Minute,  to    report    upon  the 
Colonial  Office  letter  of  the  9th  instant,  I  have  to  state  that  — 

The  Fiji,  or  more  properly  the  Viti  group,  in  the  south-western 
Pacific,  consists  of  some  200  islands,  islets,  and  rocks,  lying  be- 
tween latitude  15J0  and  19J°  south,  at  about  1900  miles,  N.E. 
of  Sydney,  and  1200  north  of  Auckland,  at  the  north  end  of 
New  Zealand.  The  two  largest  islands  may  be  some  300  miles  in 
circumference,  or  each  is  about  the  size  of  Corsica ;  65  of  the  islets 
are  said  to  be  inhabited,  and  the  whole  population  of  the  group 
may  be  200,000. 

I  propose  to  reply  categorically  to  the  queries  contained  in 
the  Colonial  Office  letter  :— 

Q.  1.  If  the  Fiji  Isles  be  obtained,  are  all  the  available  har- 
bours obtained  in  that  part  of  the  Pacific  ? 

A.  1.  Certainly  not  all,  but  a  great  part  of  them.  The 
Friendly  or  Tonga  Islands,  only  400  miles  to  the  south-east, 
possesses  good  harbours,  as  Tonga-tabu  and  Vavau.  The  Samoa 
or  Navigator  Isles,  the  same  distance  to  the  north-east,  have 
good  harbours,  as  Sangopango  and  Apia.  Some  of  the  Society 
Islands  also  may  be  available,  but  lying  1800  miles  to  the  east- 
ward, they  may  not  be  considered  as  within  the  limits  named  : 
none  of  the  harbours,  however,  are  superior  to  those  of  the  Fiji 
Islands. 

2  E  2 


420  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

Q.  2.  Do  the  natural  harbours  now  existing  require  much,  if 
any,  artificial  development  for  naval  purposes  ?  Whether  such 
harbours  are  few  or  many  ? 

A.  2.  There  are  several  roadsteads  and  harbours  in  the  Fiji 
group,  the  principal  of  which  is  the  extensive  harbour  of  Levuka, 
on  the  eastern  side  of  Ovalau ;  this  harbour  has  good  holding- 
ground,  is  easy  of  access,  and  has  every  facility  for  the  supply  of 
fruit,  vegetables,  wood,  and  water.  Gau,  on  its  western  side, 
has  a  sheltered  roadstead  of  large  extent.  Totoga  is  surrounded 
by  a  coral  reef,  within  which  is  a  spacious  sheltered  anchorage, 
with  good  holding-ground  and  an  entrance  for  ships.  All  the 
above  harbours  have  been  thoroughly  surveyed  by  order  of  the 
Admiralty,  and  plans  of  them,  on  a  large  scale,  are  available 
•when  required.  These  natural  harbours  will  not  require  any 
artificial  development  for  naval  purposes. 

3.  There  is  nothing  unusual  in  the  tides  and  currents  around 
the  Fiji  group ;  they  depend  chiefly  on  the  prevailing  winds  ;  nor 
are   they   of  sufficient  strength  to  render  the  entrance  into  or 
egress  from  the  harbours  dangerous.     There  is  no  present  ne- 
cessity for  buoys,  beacons,   or  lights,  but  should  trade   greatly 
increase,  or  should  mail-steamers  call  by  night,   a  light  would 
become  necessary. 

4.  The  Fiji  Islands  lie  nearly  in  the  direct  track  from  Panama 
to  Sydney,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  annexed  chart  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  on  which  I  have  shown  that  track,  as  also  one  by  calling 
at  the  Fijis,  whence  it  appears  that  the  steamer,  if  she  touched 
at  one  of  the  Fiji  isles  for  coal,  would  lengthen  her  voyage  only 
about  320  miles,  or  one  day's  run  out  of  32  days,  on  a  distance 
of  8000  miles.     In  like  manner  it  appears,  that  on  the  voyage 
from  Vancouver  Island  to  Sydney,  the  touching  at  Fiji  would 
lengthen  the  distance  420  miles  in  a  voyage  of  7000  miles.     An 
intermediate  station  between  Panama  and  Sydney  will  be  most 
desirable ;  indeed,  if  the  proposed  mail  route  is  to  be  carried  out, 
it  is  indispensable.     One  of  the  Society  Islands,  as  lying  half- 
way, would  be  a  more  convenient  coaling  station;  but  as  they 
are  under  French  protection  it  seems  doubtful  if  one  could  be 
obtained.     The  Consul  at  Fiji,  in  the  enclosed  papers,  hints  at 
the  possibility  of  coal  being  found  in  one  of  the  islands ;  •  if  this 


APPENDIX.  421 

should  prove  to  be  the  case,  it  would  at  o'nce  double  their  value 
as  a  station. 

In  the  above  statements  I  have  confined  myself  to  answering 
the  questions  in  the  Colonial  Office  letter,  but  on  looking  into 
the  subject  I  have  been  much  struck  by  the  entire  want  by  Great 
Britain  of  any  advanced  position  in  the  Pacific  Ocean.  We  have 
valuable  possessions  on  either  side,  as  at  Vancouver  and  Sydney, 
but  not  an  islet  or  a  rock  in  the  7000  miles  of  ocean  that  sepa- 
rate them.  The  Panama  and  Sydney  mail  communication  is 
likely  to  be  established,  yet  we  have  no  island  on  which  to  place 
a  coaling  station,  and  where  we  could  insure  fresh  supplies. 
•*  •&•*•£  And  it  may  hereafter  be  found  very  inconvenient  that 
England  should  be  shut  out  from  any  station  in  the  Pacific,  and 
that  an  enemy  should  have  possession  of  Tongatabu,  where  there 
is  a  good  harbour,  within  a  few  hundred  miles  of  the  track  of 
our  homeward-bound  gold-ships  from  Sydney  and  Melbourne. 
Neither  forts  nor  batteries  would  be  necessary  to  hold  the  ground; 
a  single  cruizing  ship  should  suffice  for  all  the  wants  of  the  islands; 
coral  reefs  and  the  hearty  goodwill  of  the  natives  would  do  the 
rest. 

I  have,  etc., 
(Signed)  JOHN  WASHINGTON, 

Admiralty,  March  12th,  1859.  Hydrographer. 


II.— REPORT   OF   COLONEL   SMYTHE,  R.A.,   TO 
COLONIAL   OFFICE, 

The  Fiji  group  of  islands  is  situated  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  be- 
tween the  meridians  of  176°  east  and  178°  west  longitude,  and 
between  the  parellels  of  15°  and  20°  south  latitude.  It  is  com- 
posed of  about  200  islands  and  islets,  of  which  less  than  one-half 
is  inhabited.  Two  of  the  islands  (Viti  Levu  and  Vanua  Levu) 
are  of  unusual  size  for  the  Pacific  Ocean,  having  each  a  circum- 
ference of  250  miles.  The  islands  rise  in  general  abruptly  from 


422  A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 

the  sea,  and  present  in  their  bold  and  irregular  outlines  the 
peculiar  characters  of  the  volcanic  formation  to  which  they  be- 
long. With  the  exception  of  some  tracts  on  the  two  larger 
islands,  but  little  level  land  is  anywhere  to  be  seen.  Almost 
every  island  is  surrounded  by  a  coral  reef,  either  fringing  the 
shore,  or  separated  from  it  by  a  channel  more  or  less  narrow. 

The  inhabitants  belong  to  the  darker  of  the  two  great  Poly- 
nesian races,  but  living  on  the  confines  of  the  lighter-coloured 
race,  have  received  from  it  some  admixture.     One  language,  with 
some  varieties  of  dialect,  prevails  throughout  the  group.     The 
population  is  estimated  at  200,000,  of  whom  60,000  are  num- 
bered as  Christian  converts.   [67,489  according  to  exact  returns, 
B.  S.]     The  men  are  generally  above  the  middle  height,  robust, 
and  well-built.     Their  principal  occupation  is  the  cultivation  of 
their  yam  and  taro  plots,  which  affords  periodical  but  easy  em- 
ployment, sailing  in  their  canoes,  fishing,  and  frequently  fighting. 
The  chief  articles  of  food  are  yams,  taros,  fish,  and  coco-nuts, 
breadfruit,  bananas,  and  other  fruits,  the  spontaneous  productions 
of  the  soil.     Their  clothing  is  extremely  scanty,  consisting  of  a 
narrow  strip  of  cloth,  or  rather  paper,  prepared  from  the  bark  of 
the  paper-mulberry.     Their  houses  are  constructed  of  reeds  and 
grass  on  a  framework  of  poles.     The  floor  is  the  natural  soil 
covered  with  fern  leaves  and  mats;   in  the  middle  is  a  sunken 
hearth,  the  smoke  from  which  escapes  through  the   walls  and 
roof.     Apertures  for  light  other  than  the  doorways  are  very  rare. 
The  houses  are  never  isolated,  but  are  crowded  together  in  towns 
or  "  koros,"  which  are  frequently  surrounded  by  a  ditch  and  an 
earthen  mound.     The  natives  have  raised  no  permanent  struc- 
tures.    Although  the  coral  reefs  present  an  inexhaustible  supply 
of  lime,  and  they  have  discovered  the  art  of  burning  it,  they 
make  no  use  of  it  except  as  paint,  and  to  plaster  their  hair  with. 
There  are  no  beasts  of  burden  or  draught,  and  consequently  no 
roads.     The  usual  mode  of  moving  about  and  of  carriage  is  by 
canoes.     The  only  mechanics  among  them  are  the  carpenters  or 
canoe-builders,  who  form  an  hereditary  caste.     The  women,  in 
a  few  favourable  localities,  manufacture  a  rude  kind  of  pottery. 
There  are  in  the  group  probably  not  less  than  forty  independent 
tribes,  twelve  of  which,  from  their  superior  influence,  may  be  con- 


APPENDIX.        '  423 

sidered  as  virtually  to  govern  it.  The  names  of  these  are  Bau, 
Rewa,  Navua,  Nadroga,  Vunda,  Ba,  Rakiraki,  arid  Viwa ;  round 
the  coast  of  the  largest  island  (Viti  Levu),  Bua,  Macuata,  and 
Cakadrove,  or  the  other  large  island  (Vanua  Levu),  and  Lakeba, 
among  the  windward  islands.  The  rule  of  the  chiefs  is  absolutely 
despotic  (see  p.  23 Ij ;  the  lives  and  goods,  and  to  some  extent 
the  lands  of  their  people,  are  at  their  mercy.  The  number  of 
chiefs  is  very  great ;  almost  every  "  koro"  has  one  or  more.  They 
differ  greatly  in  rank  and  influence.  In  many  instances  there 
are  two  great  chiefs  at  the  same  place,  as  at  Bau.  Here  one  of 
these  is  called  " Rokotuebau,"  or  "Great  Chief  of  Bau/'  and 
the  other  "  Na  Vu-ni-valu,"  or  the  "  root  of  war."  They  are  both 
consecrated  to  their  office.  At  Bam,  the  "  Vu-ni-valu"  is  the 
principal  personage;  but  in  other  places,  where  similar  titles 
exist,  the  "  Vu-ni-valu,"  although  charged  with  special  duties  in 
the  conduct  of  war,  has  but  little  power. 

South-eastward  of  Fiji,  at  a  distance  of  250  miles,  lie  the 
Friendly  or  Tonga  Islands.  The  inhabitants  belong  to  the 
lighter- coloured  Polynesian  race.  They  have  long  had  inter- 
course with  the  nearer  islands  of  Fiji,  attracted  by  the  fine  timber 
for  canoes  which  they  afford.  Canoes  are  built  on  the  spot  where 
the  material  is  found ;  the  construction  of  a  large  one  occupies 
several  years. 

In  1822  the  English  Wesley  an  Methodist  Society  commenced 
a  mission  in  Tonga,  which  led  at  a  later  period  to  the  intro- 
duction of  Christianity  into  Fiji.  This  event  took  place  in 
1835,  when  two  missionaries  from  Tonga  landed  at  Lakeba,  the 
principal  of  the  eastern  islands,  and  where  many  Tonguese 
were  located.  The  success  of  these  missionaries  was  so  encou- 
raging, that  their  Society  gradually  added  to  their  number,  and 
eventually  formed  the  Fiji  group  into  a  separate  missionary 
district. 

The  number  of  Tonguese  in  Fiji  fluctuates  considerably,  but 
may  be  taken  at  an  average  at  from  300  to  400.  Of  late  years 
they  have  taken  an  active  part  in  Fijian  wars,  sometimes  helping 
one  chief,  sometimes  another,  and  invariably  with  success.  They 
are  distinguished  by  daring,  coupled  with  unity  and  discipline, — 
qualities  in  which  the  Fijiaus  are  most  wretchedly  deficient. 


424  A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 

They  possess  strong  feelings  of  .nationality,  and  own  ready  obe- 
dience to  their  chief,  Maafu,  a  near  relative  to  the  king  of  Tonga. 
Native  agency  is  largely  employed  by  the  missionaries  in  Fiji, 
and  many  of  the  most  efficient  teachers  are  Tonguese.  In  cases 
where  Tonguese  teachers  have  been  ill-treated  by  the  heathen 
natives,  Maafu  has  interfered  as  the  protector  of  his  countrymen. 
In  this  manner,  while  extending  his  own  influence,  he  has  ren- 
dered safer  the  position  of  the  native  teachers.  [Compare  Chapter 
XV.]  The  presence  of  the  Tonguese  in  Fiji  has  been  far  from  an 
unmixed  benefit.  Their  conduct  has  often  been  in  direct  con- 
tradiction to  their  profession  of  Christianity,  and  the  help  which 
they  have  afforded  to  the  chiefs  has  occasioned  much  oppression 
to  the  people  in  the  contributions  levied  to  recompense  their 
services.  The  population  of  the  Tonga  group  does  not  exceed  a 
tenth  of  that  of  Fiji ;  yet  from  the  mental  and  physical  superiority 
of  the  Tonguese,  their  courage  and  discipline,  and  the  dread  of 
them  established  among  the  Fijians,  there  is  little  doubt  that 
they  could  easily  make  themselves  masters  of  Fiji, — an  enterprise 
which  George,  King  of  Tonga,  has  been  said  to  meditate. 

The  permanent  white  residents  in  Fiji  amount  to  about  200, 
composed  chiefly  of  men  who  have  left  or  run  away  from  vessels 
visiting  the  islands.  They  are  principally  British  subjects,  citi- 
zens of  the  United  States,  with  a  few  French  and  Germans ;  the 
two  former  are  the  most  numerous.  They  traffic  with  the  natives 
for  produce,  which  they  dispose  of  to  vessels.  They  do  nothing 
to  civilize  or  improve  the  natives ;  on  the  contrary,  they  have 
in  many  instances  fallen  to  a  lower  level.  Whenever  they  can 
obtain  spirits,  most  of  them  drink  to  excess.  From  false  infor- 
mation given  in  the  colonial  journals  regarding  the  acceptance 
by  Her  Majesty  of  the  sovereignty  of  the  islands,  and  their  ad- 
vantages for  settlers,  a  considerable  number  of  people  were  in- 
duced to  visit  them  during  last  year.  Discovering  on  their 
arrival  the  true  state  of  affairs,  many  of  them  hastened  to  return 
to  the  colonies,  and  the  greater  number  of  the  remainder  will 
probably  follow.  They  were  generally  of  a  much  superior  class 
to  the  old  white  residents.  [The  latest  intelligence  received  from 
Fiji  states  the  number  of  respectable  white  residents  to  be  in- 
creasing.— B.  £.] 


APPENDIX.  425 

Besides  the  British  Consul,  there  is  a  Consul  for  the  United 
States  of  America  residing  in  Fiji. 

The  principal  articles  of  produce  are  cocoa-nut  oil,  tortoise- 
shell,  pearl-shell,  and  arrowroot.  Formerly  considerable  quan- 
tities of  sandal-wood  and  beche-de-mer  were  carried  to  China, 
but  this  trade  has  now  nearly  ceased.  The  staple  article  of 
produce  is  cocoa-nut  oil,  of  which  about  200  tons  are  annually 
exported. 

The  sugar-cane  and  coffee-tree  both  grow  well,  and  may  in 
time  contribute  to  the  exports  from  Fiji.  [Dr.  Brower  and  Mr. 
Whippy,  Americans,  have,  according  to  recent  intelligence,  set 
up  a  sugar-cane  crushing-machine  and  coppers. — B.  $.] 

The  climate  of  Fiji  is  not  unhealthy ;  fevers  are  almost  un- 
known. The  most  fatal  disease  to  Europeans  is  dysentery.  The 
mean  temperature  of  the  whole  year  is  probably  about  80°. 
Much  rain  falls,  especially  during  the  summer  months  of  Ja- 
nuary, February,  and  March.  At  this  season  thunder-storms 
are  frequent.  Hurricanes  scarcely  ever  occur  except  in  these 
months,  and  frequently  several  years  in  succession  pass  without 
any.  During  the  remainder  of  the  year  easterly  winds  prevail. 
Of  the  meteorology  of  Fiji  more  precise  information  will  soon  be 
obtained,  as  I  brought  out  with  me  from  the  Meteorological  De- 
partment of  the  Board  of  Trade  a  complete  set  of  instruments. 

The  three  principal  reasons  stated  in  my  instructions  as  hav- 
ing been  urged  for  accepting  the  sovereignty  of  the  Fiji  islands 
are — 

1st.  That  they  may  prove  a  useful  station  for  any  mail  steam- 
ers running  between  Panama  and  Sydney. 
2nd.  That  they  may  afford  a  supply  of  cotton. 
3rd.  And,   in  close  connection  with  the  first  reason,  that 
their  possession  is  important  to  the  national  power  and 
security  in  the  Pacific. 

On  the  first  head  I  beg  to  refer  to  the  accompanying  chart  of 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  on  which  I  have  traced  the  great  circle  lines 
joining  Sydney,  Panama,  and  Fiji,  or,  in  other  words,  the  lines 
Of  shortest  distance  on  the  globe  between  these  places.  The  line 
from  Sydney  to  Panama,  it  will  be  seen,  crosses  the  northern 
island  of  New  Zealand  almost  in  the  latitude  of  Auckland,  and 


426  A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 

passes  to  the  south  of  the  great  field  of  the  Pacific  Islands.  The 
distance  by  this  line  from  Sydney  to  Panama  is  7626  nautical 
miles.  The  distance  from  Sydney  to  Fiji  is  1735  miles,  and  from 
Fiji  to  Panama  6250,  making  the  distance  from  Sydney  to  Pa- 
nama, by  way  of  Fiji,  7985  miles,  or  359  miles  longer  than  by  the 
direct  line.  The  latter  line  would  be  augmented  by  about  100 
miles  by  the  necessity  of  having  to  round  the  northern  extremity 
of  New  Zealand.  There  would  still  remain  a  difference  of  260 
miles  in  favour  of  the  Auckland  route.  The  route  by  Fiji,  besides 
being  the  longer,  traverses  the  Pacific  Archipelagoes,  the  navi- 
gation among  which  is  undoubtedly  difficult  and  dangerous,  from 
the  reefs  and  shoals  in  which  they  abound,  and  the  occurrence 
of  hurricanes  at  certain  seasons.  [Compare  Admiral  Washing- 
ton's more  favourable  view,  as  expressed  in  his  official  report 
above.— B.  S.~] 

2ndly.  Regarding  the  supply  of  cotton.  The  cotton  plant  is 
not  indigenous  in  Fiji.*  From  the  concurring  evidence  of  the 
natives  in  all  parts  of  the  group,  its  first  introduction  may  be 
fixed  at  twenty-five  years  ago.  As  six  different  varieties  are  now 
found,  it  is  probable  that  since  its  first  introduction  fresh  seeds 
have  from  time  to  time  been  brought  by  vessels  visiting  these 
islands.  The  natives  do  not  cultivate  it,  and  make  scarcely  any 
use  of  it.  Dr.  Seemann  brought  out  with  him  last  year  some 
cotton  seed,  presented  by  the  "  Manchester  Cotton  Supply  Asso- 
ciation," for  distribution  in  Fiji.  It  was  of  two  kinds,  "  Sea 
Island,"  and  "  New  Orleans."  None  of  the  former  kind  ger- 
minated, but  the  New  Orleans  proved  very  good.  In  an  experi- 
ment made  under  Dr.  Seemann's  own  direction,  the  seed  was 
sown  on  the  9th  of  June,  and  when  he  visited  the  plot  again  on. 
the  18th  of  October,  the  plants  were  from  four  to  seven  feet  high, 
and  had  some  very  fine  ripe  pods  upon  them.  Since  Mr.  Pritch- 
ard's  return  from  England  at  the  end  of  1859,  some  of  the 


*  Most  of  the  newspapers  took  this  fact  to  be  a  serious  drawback  to  the 
successful  cultivation  of  cotton,  quite  forgetting  that  cotton  is  not  indi- 
genous to  the  United  States  and  many  other  countries  in  which  it  flou- 
rishes.  I  made  exactly  the  same  statement  ("  cotton  is  not  indigenous  in 
Fiji"),  but  added  that  notwithstanding  it  had  become  almost  wild  in  some 
parts,  so  well  is  the  country  adapted  for  its  growth. — B.  S. 


APPENDIX.  427 

native  chiefs  have  been  induced  to  encourage  tlie  growth  of  cot- 
ton, and  a  few  young  plants  are  now  to  be  seen  in  the  native 
gardens  in  various  places.  Very  little,  however,  can  be  expected 
for  some  time  from  the  natives.  They  will  only  be  induced  to 
raise  cotton  by  meeting  with  a  ready  sale  for  the  small  quan- 
tities which  they  will  bring  in  at  first.  The  cultivation  of  cotton 
by  white  settlers  is  principally  a  question  of  land  and  labour.  In 
a  general  way  it  may  be  said  that  there  is  not  an  acre  of  land  in 
Fiji  which  is  not  private  property,  the  ownership  resting  either  in 
families  or  in  individuals.  A  small  portion  of  the  land  only  at 
any  one  time  is  under  cultivation,  as  a  narrow  patch  of  ground 
supplies  the  wants  of  a  Fijian  household,  and  the  custom  is  to 
break  up  frequently  new  ground  and  abandon  the  old.  On  the 
subject  of  the  purchase  of  land  by  whites,  I  made  particular  in- 
quiry of  the  chiefs  at  each  of  the  public  meetings ;  the  general 
reply  was,  that  an  agreement  made  with  the  owners,  if  approved 
by  the  chief,  would  hold  good.  In  the  older  purchases  of  land 
by  whites,  when  the  quantity  exceeded  what  was  required  for  a 
house,  the  native  residents  were  not  interfered  with,  as  no  culti- 
vation of  land  was  attempted.  In  a  few  recent  cases,  where  pur- 
chases have  been  effected  by  the  whites  who  came  last  year  to 
the  islands,  and  who,  with  the  view  of  forming  plantations, 
wished  to  remove  the  natives  from  the  land,  opposition  from  the 
latter  has  been  met  with.  By  a  clearer  understanding  with  the 
owners  before  the  purchase  was  concluded,  these  difficulties  would 
probably  have  been  avoided.  The  only  mode  hitherto  of  ob- 
taining labour  has  been  through  the  instrumentality  of  the  chiefs, 
who  send  a  party  of  their  people  to  perform  the  work  agreed 
upon  and  receive  the  payment,  which  they  distribute  at  their 
pleasure.  This  system  would  not  meet  the  daily  demand  of  la- 
bour required  in  a  cotton  plantation.  The  general  habits  and 
sentiments  of  the  Fijians  are  opposed  to  the  acquisition  of  pro- 
perty by  individuals.  The  chief  seizes  anything  belonging  to  his 
people  that  takes  his  fancy,  and  as  readily  gives  it  away,  and  the 
people  are  equally  ready  to  beg  and  to  give.  As  the  influence 
of  Christianity  increases,  the  rule  of  the  chiefs  will  become  more 
mild,  and  private  rights  will  be  more  respected.  It  is  very  doubt- 
ful, however,  whether  the  people  will  become  more  industrious, 


428  A   MISSION   TO    VJTI. 

their  wants  being  so  few,  and  being  so  easily  supplied.  Although 
capable  of  making  a  considerable  exertion  for  a  short  period,  the 
natives  dislike  regular  and  continuous  employment.  On  the 
whole,  I  am  of  opinion  that  whether  by  natives  or  by  white 
planters  with  native  labourers,  the  supply  of  cotton  from  Fiji 
can  never  be  otherwise  than  insignificant.  [Compare  Chapter 
III.,  where  the  cotton  question  is  regarded  in  a  more  favourable 
light.— B.  £.] 

3rdly.  Regarding  the  importance  of  the  possession  of  the  Fiji 
Islands  to  the  national  power  and  security  in  the  Pacific.  In- 
fluence of  a  great  power  in  the  Pacific  is  dependent  entirely  on 
its  naval  force.  By  the  possession  of  Australia  and  New  Zealand 
England  completely  commands  the  western  portion  of  the  Pacific. 
In  these  colonies  naval  armaments  can  be  recruited  and  equipped, 
and  perhaps  in  a  few  years  may  even  be  created.  No  group  in 
the  Pacific  can  ever  offer  these  advantages,  and  the  possession  of 
one,  in  the  western  section  more  especially,  is  not  only  not  re- 
quired, but  would  be  a  source  of  embarrassment  in  the  event  of 
war.  [Compare  Admiral  Washington's  opinion. — B.  S.~\  The 
Fiji  Islands  do  not  lie  in  the  path  of  any  great  commercial 
route.  The  whole  of  the  Pacific  Archipelagoes  lie  to  the  north 
of  the  direct  line  from  the  Australian  colonies  to  Panama  and 
South  America,  and  south  of  the  line  from  Panama  and  North 
America  to  China  and  India.  All  that  it  seems  necessary  for 
England  to  possess  in  the  Pacific  is  an  island  with  a  good  har- 
bour, midway  between  Auckland  and  Panama,  in  the  steam- 
packet  route.  Pitcairn's  island  is  nearly  in  the  required  position, 
but  it  has  no  harbour.  If  a  suitable  island  in  its  neighbourhood 
could  be  found,  it  would  become,  in  addition  to  a  coaling  station 
for  steam-vessels,  the  entrepot  of  the  pearl-shell  and  other  trade 
which  now  centres  in  Tahiti,  and  afford  a  very  favourable  place 
of  rendezvous  for  a  squadron  to  protect  our  shipping  homeward- 
bound  from  Australia  and  the  Pacific. 

Of  the  native  population  of  Fiji,  less  than  one-third  profess  the 
Christian  religion ;  among  the  remainder  cannibalism,  strangu- 
lation of  widows,  infanticide,  and  other  enormities,  prevail  to  a 
frightful  extent.  Should  the  sovereignty  of  the  islands  be  ac- 
cepted by  Her  Majesty,  the  suppression  of  these  inhuman  prac- 


APPENDIX.  429 

tices  would  be  put  into  immediate  execution.  For  this  service, 
and  for  the  general  support  of  the  Government,  a  force  of  not 
less  than  the  wing  of  a  regiment  would  be  required,  in  addition 
to  a  ship  of  war,  with  a  tender  of  light  draught,  both  steamers. 
The  expenses  of  a  civil  establishment,  composed  on  a  sufficient 
scale  to  act  efficiently  on  the  condition  of  the  natives,  would  pro- 
bably not  fall  short  of  £7000  a  year.  The  only  mode  of  raising 
a  revenue  would  appear  to  be  by  a  capitation  tax ;  customs  duties 
would  be  so  small  as  not  to  cover  the  cost  of  collection,  if  the 
importation  of  ardent  spirits  were  prohibited  (see  p.  81),  as  a 
regard  for  the  welfare  of  the  natives  would  imperatively  demand. 
Tor  many  years  the  Government  would  be  necessitated  to  accept 
the  tax  in  kind,  as  the  natives  have  no  circulating  medium  of 
exchange ;  and  a  still  longer  period  would  elapse  before  the  is- 
lands became  self-supporting.  Looking  solely  at  the  interests  of 
civilization,  the  forcible  and  immediate  suppression  of  the  bar- 
barous practices  of  the  heathen  portion  of  the  population  might 
appear  a  very  desirable  act ;  yet,  in  beneficial  influence  on  the 
native  character,  it  might  prove  less  real  and  permanent  than  the 
more  gradual  operation  of  missionary  teaching.  The  success 
which  has  attended  the  missionaries  in  Fiji  has  been  very  re- 
markable, and  presents  every  prospect  of  continuance.  The  prin- 
cipal tribes  at  present  without  missionaries  or  native  teachers 
are  willing  to  receive  them,  and  there  appears  nothing  wanting 
but  time  and  a  sufficiency  of  instructors  to  render  the  whole  of 
the  inhabitants  professing  Christians.  Judging  from  the  present 
state  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  the  former  condition  of  Ta- 
hiti, it  would  seem  that  the  resources  of  the  Pacific  Islands  can 
be  best  developed,  and  the  welfare  of  their  inhabitants  secured, 
by  a  native  government  aided  by  the  counsels  of  respectable 
Europeans. 

On  a  review  of  the  foregoing  considerations,  and  the  conclu- 
sions derived  from  a  personal  examination  of  the  islands  and  the 
people,  I  am  of  opinion  that  it  would  not  be  expedient  that  Her 
Majesty 's  Government  should  accept  the  offer  which  has  been 
made  to  cede  to  Her  Majesty  the  sovereignty  over  the  Fiji : 
Islands. 

Having  thus  stated  the  conclusion  to  which  my  inquiries  have 


430  A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 

led  me  regarding  the  offer  to  Her  Majesty  of  the  sovereignty  of 
the  Fiji  Islands,  I  would  beg  leave  to  add  a  few  suggestions  to- 
wards the  improvement  of  our  relations  with  them.  The  great 
hindrance  to  the  progress  of  civilization  and  Christianity  among 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Pacific  Islands,  is  the  conduct  and  example 
of  the  whites  residing  or  roving  among  them.  Of  the  general 
character  of  these  men  in  Fiji  I  have  already  spoken.  During 
the  few  months  I  have  been  in  the  group,  a  case  of  arson,  one 
of  theft,  one  of  burglary,  and  one  of  aggravated  assault,  have  oc- 
curred among  them.  The  great  difficulty  in  these  cases  is  the 
want  of  legal  authority  to  arrest  suspected  persons,  and  of  a 
proper  and  safe  place  in  which  to  keep  them.  The  only  British 
functionary  is  the  Consul,  and  he  is  powerless  in  these  respects. 
To  remedy  these  evils,  1  would  suggest  that  the  Consul  have 
conferred  on  him  some  of  the  powers  of  a  magistrate ;  that  two 
constables  (married  men,  selected  either  from  the  police  or  the 
army)  be  sent  out  from  England ;  and  that  a  stone  lock-up  house 
be  erected  for  the  safe  custody  of  offenders,  until  there  is  an 
opportunity  of  sending  them  to  the  colonies  for  trial,  or  they  are 
otherwise  disposed  of.  The  place  of  residence  of  the  Consul  is  a 
matter  of  considerable  importance.  The  principal  white  settle- 
ment in  Fiji  at  present  is  at  Levuka,  on  the  island  of  Ovalau. 
It  owed  its  selection  to  political  causes  in  disturbed  times.  Its 
harbour  may  be  considered  good,  but  the  hills  rise  abruptly  from 
the  beach  and  shut  it  in,  and  it  is  dependent  on  ether  places 
for  much  of  its  supplies.  The  present  British  Consul  has  an 
office  at  Levuka,  but  he  resides  at  a  further  part  of  the  island  of 
Ovalau. 

The  locality  best  adapted  in  Fiji  for  a  white  settlement  is  the 
country  round  the  harbour  of  Suva  in  Viti  Levu,  the  largest  of 
the  islands.  It  is  rich,  level,  and  well-watered.  The  harbour  is, 
perhaps,  the  best  in  the  group  j  it  is  easy  of  access,  can  be  en- 
tered and  quitted  with  all  the  prevailing  winds,  and  has  com- 
munication within  the  reef  with  a  great  extent  of  coast.  If  the 
British  Consulate  were  permanently  established  in  this  locality, 
a  white  settlement  would  spring  up  near  it,  which,  if  the  Consul 
were  armed  with  the  powers  suggested  above,  would  not  be  dis- 
graced by  the  scenes  of  drunkenness  and  rioting  so  prevalent  at 


APPENDIX.  431 

Levuka,  and  would  be  of  eminent  service  in  developing  the  na- 
tural resources  of  the  Fiji  Islands. 

Fiji  Islands,  May  1st,  1861. 


III.— SYSTEMATIC  LIST  OF  ALL  THE  FIJIAN 
PLANTS  AT  PRESENT  KNOWN. 

The  Vitian  Islands  were  until  1840  a  virgin  soil,  and  still  offer  a 
tempting  field  for  botanical  explorations.  Absolutely  nothing  was 
known  of  their  Flora  until  Messrs.  Hinds  and  Barclay,  who  accom- 
panied Sir  Edward  Belcher  in  H.M.S.  Sulphur,  collected  a  few 
specimens  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Rewa,  Viti  Levu,  and  Bua 
Bay  in  Yanua  Levu,  afterwards  described  by  Mr.  Bentham  in  the 
*  London  Journal  of  Botany,'  vol.  ii.,  and  the  Botany  of  H.M.S. 
Sulphur.  About  the  same  time  (1840)  Viti  was  visited  by  the 
United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  Commander  Wilkes,  and  con- 
siderable collections  were  made  by  Messrs.  Brackenridge,  Rich,  and 
Pickering,  furnishing  the  materials  for  Professor  Asa  Gray's  cele- 
brated '  Botany  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition.'  In 
1856,  H.M.S.  Herald,  Captain  Denham,  R.N.,  explored  different 
parts  of  the  group,  and  Mr.  Milne,  his  botanical  collector,  was 
enabled  to  add  a  good  number  of  species  to  our  knowledge. 
Another  visit  was  paid  to  the  group  by  that  indefatigable  bo- 
tanist Professor  Harvey,  of  Trinity  College,  Dublin,  productive  of 
many  new  types.  In  1860  I  collected  about  800  species  and  made 
a  great  many  notes  of  the  country  explored.  Whilst  part  of  the 
latter,  relating  to  the  resources  and  vegetable  productions,  were 
embodied  in  an  official  report,  addressed  to  his  Grace  the  Duke  of 
Newcastle,  and  presented  to  Parliament  by  command  of  her  Majesty, 
a  preliminary  list  of  the  former  was  published  by  me  in  the  '  Bon- 
plandia,'  vol.  ix.  p.  253  (1861).  Since  then  I  have  had  time  to  ex- 
amine the  plants  more  closely  and  correct  a  few  errors  crept  in. 
Other  botanists  have  also  been  led  to  study  the  materials  collected 
by  me  and  publish  the  result.  Prof.  A.  Gray  has  carefully  collated 
my  plants  with  those  published  by  him  in  the  '  Botany  of  the  United 
States  Exploring  Expedition  '  and  the  '  Proceedings  of  the  American 


432 


A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 


Academy,'  the  result  of  which  has  been  given  in  the  '  Bonplandia,* 
x.  34  (1862),  and  also  in  the  Proceedings  of  the  Academy  named. 
As  there  are  very  few  original  specimens  in  Europe  of  the  numer- 
ous new  types  described  by  that  eminent  savant,  these  papers  are 
invaluable  to  the  working  botanist.  Mr.  Mitten  has  examined 
all  my  Mosses  and  Hepatica3  (Bonpl.  ix.  365,  and  Bonpl.  x.  19) ; 
amongst  the  35  species  collected  there  being  20  new  ones.  For 
the  determination  of  the  Ferns  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Smith,  at 
Kew ;  for  that  of  the  Fungi,  to  the  Eev.  M.  J.  Berkeley ;  for  that 
of  the  Palms,  to  Mr.  "Wendland ;  the  Lichens  to  the  Eev.  Churchill 
Babington,  and  the  Aroidea3  to  Mr.  Schott,  at  Vienna,  who  has 
also  described  the  new  species  (Bonplandia,  ix.  367,  seq.) ;  for  my 
own  part,  I  have  begun  to  describe  the  new  genera  and  species  in 
the '  Bonplandia,'  ix.  and  x.,  and  given  coloured  illustrations  drawn 
by  the  skilful  pencil  of  Mr.  Fitch.  In  the  following  catalogue  will 
be  found  embodied  the  result  of  all  these  labours,  and  also  all  the 
species  enumerated  by  previous  authors.  The  numbers  which  follow 
the  different  species  refer  to  my  distributed  collections,  and  those 
remitted  to  me  by  Mr.  J.  Storck,  who  was  my  able  assistant,  and  is 
now  a  permanent  resident  in  Fiji. 


Ranunculacece. 
Clematis  Pickeringii,  A.  Gray  (1). 

Dilleniacece. 
Capellia  biflora,  A.   Gray  ;    vulgo  '  Ku- 

lava'  vel  'Kukulava'  (2). 
C.  membranifolia,  A.  Gray. 

Anonacece. 

Anona  squamosa,  Linn.  Cultivated  (3) . 
Richella  monosperma,  A.  Gray. 
Uvaria  amygdalina,  A.  Gray. 
IT.  odorata,  Lam. ;  vulgo  '  Makosoi '  (5) . 
Polyalthia  Yitiensis,  Seem.  (4). 

Myristicaceae. 
Myristica     castanesefolia,      A.     Gray ; 

vulgo 'Male'  (6). 
M.    macrophylla,     A.    Gray  j      vulgo 

'Male '(7). 
M.  sp. ;  vulgo  «  Male '  (866). 

Cruciferae. 

Cardamine  sarmentosa,  Forst.  (8). 
Sinapis    nigra,    Linn.     Cultivated    and 
naturalized  (9). 


Capparideoe. 
Capparis  Richii,  A.  Gray. 

Flacourtianece. 
Xylosma  orbiculatum,  Forst.  (10). 

Samydacece. 

Casearia  disticha,  A.  Gray  (11). 
C.  ?  acuminatissima,  A.  Gray. 
C.  Eicliii,  A.  Gray. 

Violacece. 

Agathea  violaris,  A.  Gray,  et  var.  (12). 
Alsodeia  ?    sp. ;    vulgo   '  Sesirakavono  ' 
(867). 


Mollugo  striata,  Linn.  (230). 

Portulacea. 
Portulaca  oleracea,  Linn. ;  vulgp  '  Tau- 

kuka  ni  vuaka'  (13). 
P.  quadrifida,  Linn. ;  vulgo  { Taukuku 

ni  vuaka'  (14). 
Talinum  patens,  WUld.  (15). 
Sesuvium  Portulacastrum,  Linn. 


APPENDIX. 


433 


Malvaceae. 
Sida  linifolia,  Cay. 
S.  rhombifolia,  Linn.  (16). 
S.  retusa,  Linn. 
Urena  lobata,  Linn.  (17). 
U.  moriifolia,  De  Cand. 
Abelmoschus  moschatus,  Moench;  vtdgo 

'Wakiwaki'  (19,869). 
A.  canaranus,  Miq.  ?  (20). 
A.  Manihot,  Med. ;  vulgo   <  Bele,'  vel 

'  Yauvau  niYiti'  (18). 
A.  esculentus,   Wight   et  Arn.   Culti- 
vated, according  to  A.  Gray. 
Hibiscus  Kosa-Sinensis,    Linn.;  vulgo 
'Kauti,'    'Senitoa,'  vel   '  Seniciobia ' 
(22). 
H.     Storckii,  Seem.;    vulgo    'Seqelu' 

(23). 
H.   diversifolius,   Jacq. ;  vulgo   c  Kala- 

uaisoni,'  vel '  Kalakalauaisoni '  (21). 
Paritium  purpurascens,    Seem.;  vulgo 

'  Yau  damudamu '  (24). 
P.   tiliaceum,  Juss. ;  vulgo  '  Vau  dina ' 

(25). 
P.  tricuspis,   Guill.   vulgo    'Yau  dra' 

(26). 
Thespesia  populnea,  Corr. ;  vulgo  '  Mu- 

lomulo'  (7). 
Gossypium  religiosum,    Linn. ;    vulgo 

*  Yauvau  ni  papalagi'  (28). 

G-.  Peruvianum,  Cav. ;  vulgo  '  Yau- 
vau ni  papalagi'  (29). 

G.  Barbadense,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Yauvau 
ni  papalagi'  (30). 

Gr.    arboreum,    Linn,  et  var. ;    vulgo 

*  Yauvau  ni  papalagi '  (31,  32). 

Sterculiacea. 
Heritiera     littoralis,   Dryand. ;     vulgo 

'  Kena  ivi  na  alewa  Kalou '  (33). 
Firmiana  diversifolia,  Gray. 

Buettneriacece. 
Commersonia    platyphylla,    De    Cand. 

(34). 
Biittneriacearum  gen.  nov.  aff.  Commer- 

soniee  (83). 
Kleinhovia     hospita,     Linn. ;       vulgo 

'Mamakara'  (35). 


Waltheria  Americana,  Linn.  (36). 
Melochia  Yitiensis,  A.  Gray  (37). 

Tiliacece. 

Triumfetta  procumbens,  Forst.  (38). 
Grewiapersicsefolia,  A.  Gray(=  G.  Mal- 

lococca,  var.  ?)  ;  vulgo  '  Siti'  (39). 
G.  prunifolia,  A.   Gray;    vulgo  'Siti' 

(40). 

G.  Mallococca,  L.  fil. 
Trichospermum  Eichii,  Seem.  (=  Dicli- 

docarpus    Eichii,   A.    Gray) ;   vulgo 

xMaku'  (41,870). 
Elaeocarpus  laurifolius,  A.  Gray. 
E.  cassinoides,  A.  Gray. 
E.  pyriformis,  A.  Gray. 
E.  Storckii,  Seem.  sp.  nov.  (E.  aff.  spe- 

ciosi,  Brongn.  et  Gris.)  ;  vulgo  '  Gai- 
gai'  (874). 

TernstroemiacecB. 
Draytonia  rubicunda,  A.  Gray;  vulgo 

'Kau  alewa'  (42,872). 
Eurya  Yitiensis,  A.  Gray  (43). 
E.  acuminata,  De  Cand.  (44). 
Ternstrcemiacearum  gen.  nov.  (45), 

CruttifercB. 

Discostigma  Yitiense,  A.  Gray. 
Calysaccion  obovale,  Miq.  (=  Garcinia 

Mangostana,  A.  Gray  in  United  St. 

Expl.    Exped.);  vulgo  'Yetao'  vel 

'Uvitai'  (46). 
Calophyllum  Inophyllum,  Linn. ;  vulgo 

Dilo'  (48,873). 
C.  Burmanni,  Wight ;  vulgo  'Damanu* 

(49). 
C.  (polyanthum,  Wall.  ?  v.  lanceolatum, 

Bl.  ?  =  C.  spectabile,    United    St. 

Expl.  Exped. ;  vulgo  '  Damanu  dilo- 

dilo')   (47). 
Garcinia  sessilis,  Seem.  (Clusia  sessilis, 

Forst.  61). 
G.  pedicellata,  Seem.   (Clusia  pedicel- 

lata,  Forst.  50). 

Pittosporece. 

Pittosporum  arborescens,  Kich. 
P.  Eichii,    A.   Gray;    vulgo   'Tadiri' 

(54). 
P.  Brackenridgei,  A.  Gray  (55). 

2   F 


434 


A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 


P.  tobiroides,  A.  Gray  (56). 
P.  Pickering!!,  A.  Gray  (53). 
P.  rhytidocarpum,  A.  Gray  (52). 

A.urantiacece. 
Micromelum  minutum,  Seem.  (M.  gla- 

brescens,    Bth. ;    Limonia     minuta, 

Forst.);    yulgo   'Qiqila'   teste   Wil- 
liams (57). 
Citrus    vulgaris,     Risso      (C.     torosa, 

Picker.)  ;    vulgo     '  Moli     kurikuri ' 

(58). 
C.  Aurantium,  Kisso  ;  vulgo  c  Moli  ni 

Tahaiti.'— Cult. 
C.    Decumana,    Linn.;     vulgo    'Moli 

kana.'    Cultivated  and  naturalized. 
C.    Limonum,     Risso ;     vulgo    '  Moli 

kara. ' 

MeliacecB. 
Aglaia  edulis,  A.  Gray  (Milnea  edulis, 

Roxb.)  ;  vulgo  '  Danidani  loa.' 
A.  ?  basiphylla,  A.  Gray. 
Didimochyton  Richii,  A.  Gray. 
Xylocarpus   Granatum,    Keen. ;    vulgo 

'Dabi'  (61). 
X.  obovatus,  A.  Juss.  (var.  precedent.  ? 

62). 

Yavaea  amicorum,  Benth.  (63). 
Melise  sp.  nov.  (64). 

Sapindacece. 
Cardiospermum  microcarpum,  H.  B.  et 

K.;  vulgo 'Yoniu'  (65). 
Sapindus  Yitiensis,  A.  Gray  (66). 
Cupania  falcata,  A.  Gray  (70). 
C.   Yitiensis,  Seem,  (an  var.  praeced.? 

68). 
C.  rhoifolia,  A.  Gray  ;  vulgo  « Buka  ni 

vuda'  (74,  69). 
C.  apetala,  Labill.  (67). 
C.  Brackenridgei,  A.  Gray. 
C.  leptobotrys,  A.  Gray. 
Nephelium    pinnatum,    Camb. ;    vulgo 

'  Dawa,'  et  var.  plur.  (71). 
Dodonsea     triquetra,      Andr. ;     vulgo 

«Wase'  teste  WiUiams  (72). 

Malpighiacece. 
Hiptage  Javanica,  Bl.  ? 
H.  myrtifolia,  A.  Gray. 


Am/pelidecB. 
Yitis  saponaria,  Seem.  (=  Cissus  geni- 

culata,    A.    Gray,  non   Bl.) ;  vulgo 

'WaRoturotu'  (76). 
Y.  Yitiensis,    Seem.    (Cissus  Yitiensis, 

A.  Gray). 
Y.  acuminata,  Seem.     (Cissus    acumi- 

nata,  A.  Gray)  (77). 
Leea  sambucina,  Linn.  (78). 


Smythea  pacifica,   Seem.   Bonpl.   t.   9 

(79). 
Yentilago?     Yitiensis,    A.    Gray    (an 

Smythea?  spec.  ?  =  cernua,  Tul.). 
Colubrina    Asiatica,    Brongn. ;     vulgo 

'Yusolevu'  (80). 
C.  Yitiensis,  Seem.  sp.  nov.  (85). 
Alphitonia  zizyphoides,    A.  Gray  (  = 

A.   franguloides    A.    Gray) ;     vulgo 

'Doi'  (81). 

Gouania  Richii,  A.  Gray  (82). 
G.  denticulata,  A.  Gray. 
Rhamnea  dubia  (84). 

ChailletiacecB. 
Chailletia Yitiensis,  Seem.  sp.  nov.  (876). 

CelastrinecB. 

Catha  Yitiensis,  A..  Gray  (86). 
Celastrus  Richii,  A.  Gray. 

Aquifoliacece. 
Ilex  Yitiensis,  A.  Gray  (87). 

Olacinece. 
Ximenia  eUiptica,  Forst.  ;  vulgo  'Somi- 

somi,'  'Tumitomi,'  vel    'Tomitomi' 

(88). 

Stemonurus?  sp.;  vulgo  'Duvu'  (877). 
Olacinea?  (878). 

Oxalidece. 
Oxalis  corniculata,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Toto- 

wiwi'  (89). 

Rutacea. 
Evodia  hortensis,  Forst. ;  vulgo  *  Uci,' 

vel'Salusalu'  (91). 
E.  longifolia,  A.  Rich.  (92). 
E.  drupacea,  Labill.  ?  (90). 
Acronychia  petiolaris,  A.  Gray. 


APPENDIX. 


435 


Zanthoxylon  varians,  Benth.  (=  Acr.o- 
nychia  heterophylla,  A.  Gray 
(102,879). 

Z.  Eoxburghianum,  Cham,  et  Schlecht. 
(103). 

Z.  sp.  (n.  104). 

Simarubece. 
Soulamea  amara,  Lam. 
Amaroria  soulameoides,  A.  Gray  (880). 
Brucea?  sp.  (105). 

Ochnacece. 
Brackenridgea  nitida,  A.  Gray  (93). 

Anacardiacece. 
Oncocarpus  atra,  Seem.    (O.  Yitiensis, 

A.  Gray;  Ehusatrum,  Forst.)  ;  vulgo 

'  Kau  Karo '  (94,  881) 
Buchanania  florida,  Schauer  (882). 
Ehus  simarubsefolia,  A.  Gray  (95). 
Eh.  Taitensis,  GuiU.  ?  (96). 

Burseracece. 

Canarium  Yitiense,  A.  Gray  (97). 
Evia    dulcis,    Cornm.  j      yulgo    '  Wi ' 

(98). 
Dracontomelon  sylvestre,  Blum. ;  vulgo 

'Tarawau'  (99). 
Dr.  sp.?  (100). 

Connaracece. 

Eourea  heterophylla,  Planch. 
Connarus  Pickeringii,  A.  Gray  (101). 

Leguminosce. 
I.  Papilionacese : — 
Crotalaria  quinquefolia,  Linn. 
Indigofera  Anil,  Linn.  (106). 
Tephrosia  purpurea,  Pers.  (T.  piscatoria, 

Pers.  107). 

Ormocarpus  sennoides,  De  Cand. 
Uraria  lagopodioides,  De  Cand.  (108). 
Desmodium   umbellatum,  W.   et  Arn. 

(109). 

D.  australe,  Bth.   (Hedysarum,  Willd.) 
D.  polycarpum,  De  Cand.  (111). 
Abrus  precatorius,  Linn.;  vulgo  'Qiri 

damu,'  '  Lere  damu/  vel  'Diri  damu ' 

(110). 
Canavalia  obtusifolia,  De  Cand.  (122). 


C.  turgida,  Grah.  (112). 

C.  sericea,  A.  Gray. 
Glycine  Tabacina,  Bth.  (123). 
Mucuna  gigantea,  De  Cand.  (119). 
M.  platyphyUa,  A.  Gray  (200). 
Erythrina  Indica,  Linn.  ;  vulgo,  '  Drala 

dina,'  (125)  et  var.  fl.  albis. 
E.  ovalifolia,     Eoxb.  j      vulgo     'Drala 

kaka'  (124). 

Strongylodon  ruber,  Yogel  (113). 
Phaseolus  rostratus,  Wall. 
Ph.  Mungo,  Linn.  ? 
Ph.  Truxillensis,  H.  B.  et  K.  (116). 
Yigna  lutea,  A.  Gray  (121). 
Lablab  vulgaris,  Savi;  vulgo    'Drala- 

wa'  (118). 

Cajanus  Indicus,  Spr.  Introd.  (115). 
Pongamia  glabra,  Yent. ;    vulgo  c  Yesi- 

vesi,  v.  '  Yesi  ni  wai '  (126,  884). 
Derris  uliginosa,  Benth. ;  vulgo  '  Duwa 

gaga'  (127,  883) 
Dalbergia  monosperma,  Dalz.  (128). 

D.  torta,  Grah. 

Pterocarpus    Indicus,    Willd. ;     vulgo 

'Cibicibi'  (129). 

Sophora  tomentosa,  Linn. ;  vulgo  'Kau 
nialewa'  (130,886). 
II.  Csesalpineee : — 
Guilandina  Boiiduc,  Ait. ;  vulgo  e  Soni ' 

(132). 

Poinciana  pulcherrima,  Linn. — Cult. 
Storckiella  Yitiensis,  Seem,  in  Bonpl.  t. 

6;  vulgo  'Marasa'  (133). 
Cassia  occidentals,   Linn,  vulgo  'Kau 

moce'  (134). 
C.  obtusifolia,  Linn. ;  vulgo  'Kaumoce' 

(135). 
C.  laevigata,    Willd. ;    vulgo    *  Winivi- 

kau'  (136). 
C.  glauca,  Lam. 
Afzelia  bijuga,  A.  Gray  ;  vulgo  c  Yesi ' 

(137). 

Cynometra  grandiflora,  A.  Gray  (138). 
C.  falcata,  A.  Gray. 

Inocarpus  edulis,  Forst.  ;  viilgo    '  Ivi ' 
(371). 

III.  Mimosese  : — 

Entada  scandens,  Bth. ;  vulgo  '  Wa  lai/ 
v.  'Watagiri'  (139). 

2  F  2 


436 


A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 


Mimosa  pudica,  Linn.  Naturalized  (140) . 
Leucsena  glauca,  Bth.  (141) 
L.  Forsteri,  Beuth.  (142). 
Acacia laurif olia,  Willd. ;  vulgo  'Tata-- 
kia'  (143). 

A.  Eichii,    A.   Gray ;   vulgo   'Q.umu' 
(144). 

Serianthes  rayriadenia,  Planch. 
S.  Yitiensis,  A.  Gray ;  vulgo  '  Vaivai ' 
(145,887). 

Chrysobalanece. 

Parinariuni  laurinum,  A.  Gray  (=  P.  ? 
Margarata,  A.  Gray  =  P  .  insularum, 
A.  Gray)  ;  vulgo  'Makita'  (146). 

RosacecB. 

Eubus  tiliaceus,  Smith;  vulgo  'Wa 
gadrogadro'  (147). 

MyrtacecB. 

Barringtonia  speciosa,  Linn. ;  vulgo 
'  Vutu  rakaraka '  (148). 

B.  Samoensis,  A.  Gray ;  vulgo  '  Vutu 
ni  wai'  (149). 

B.  excelsa,  Blume ;  vulgo  '  Vutu  kana' 

(150). 
B.  sp. 
Eugenia  (Jambosa)  Malaccensis,  Linn. ; 

vulgo  '  Kavika :'  var.  o,  floribus  albis, 

vulgo    '  Kavika    vulovulo ;'    var.    /8, 

floribus   purpureis,    vulgo    '  Kavika 

damudamu '  (161). 
E.  (Jambosa)  Eichii,  A.  Gray  ;    vulgo 

'Bokoi'  (164). 
E.    (Jambosa)    sp.    (an  Eichii  var.?); 

vulgo 'Sea'  (165). 

E.  (Jambosa)  quadrangulata,  A.  Gray. 
E.    (Jambosa)     gracilipes,    A.     Gray ; 

vulgo  '  Lutulutu,'  vel  '  Bogibalewa ' 

(158). 
E.    (Jambosa)   neurocalyx,    A.    Gray ; 

vulgo 'Leba'  (159). 
E.  rariflora,  Bth.  (160). 
E.  Brackenridgei,  A.  Gray  (155). 
E.  confertiflora,  A.  Gray. 
E.  sp.  nov.  confertiflor.  proxima  (156). 
E.  effusa,  A.  Gray  (151). 
E.  amicorum,  Benth.  (152). 
E.,  rubescens,  A.    Gray;    vulgo  'Yasi 

dravu'  (154). 


E.  coryiiocarpa,  A.  Gray  (153). 

E.   rivularis,    Seem.  ;    vulgo    '  Yasi  ni 

wai'  (162). 
E.  Grayi,   Seem.    sp.  nov.    fl.    purpu- 

reis (163). 

Nelitris  fruticosa  (A.  Gray). 
N.  Vitiensis,  A.  Gray  ;    vulgo  *  Nuqa- 

nuqa'  (166,888). 
Acicalyptus  myrtoides,  A.  Gray. 
A.  Seemanni,  A.  Gray  (168). 
Metrosideros  collina,  A.  Gray  ;    vulgo 

'Vuga'  (169,889). 
M.  sp.  fl.  luteis  (170). 
M.  sp.  fl.  coccineis  (171). 


Memecylon  Vitiense,  A.  Gray  et  var. 

(172). 

Astronia  Pickeringii,  A.  Gray. 
A.  confertiflora,  A.  Gray  (174). 
A.  Storckii,  Seem.,    sp.    nov.;     vulgo 

"Cavacava'  (890). 
Astronidium    parviflorum,     A.     Gray 

(465). 

Anplectrum  ?  ovalifolium,  A.  Gray. 
Medinilla  heterophylla,  A.  Gray  (175). 
M.  rhodochlcena,  A.  Gray;  vulgo  '  Cara- 

racara  i  resiga'  (177,  891). 
M.  sp.  (182). 
M.  sp.  (75). 
M.  sp.  (175). 

Melastoma  Vitiense,  Naud.  (180). 
M.  polyanthum,  Bl.  ?  (179). 
Melastomacea  (181). 

A.langiecB. 
Ehytidandra  Vitiensis,  A.  Gray. 

Rhizophorece. 

Haplopetalon  Eichii,  A.  Gray. 
H.  Seemanni,  A.  Gray  (184). 
Crossostylis  biflora,  Forst. 
Ehizophora    mucronata,  Lam.  ;    vulgo 

'Dogo'  (185). 
Bruguiera  Ehumphii,  Bl.  (186).  . 

Comlretacece. 
Lumuitzera    coccinea,    Willd.  ;    vulgo 

'Sagali'   (189). 

Terminalia  Catappa,  Linn.  ;  vulgo  '  Ta- 
vola'  (187). 


APPENDIX. 


437 


P.    Moluccana,   Lam.;      vulgo    'Tivi' 

(188). 
T.  glabrata,  Forst.  ? 

Passiflorece. 
Passiflora,  sp.  fl.  viridibus  (190). 

Pap  ay  ace ce. 

Carica   Papaya,  Linn. ;    vulgo  c  Oleti,' 
Introd.  (190). 

CucurMtacece. 

Karivia  Samoensis,  A.  Gray  (192). 
Luifa  insularum,  A.  Gray  (193). 
Cucumis  pubescens,  Willd.  (194). 
Lagenaria  vulgaris,  Ser.  (195). 

SaxifragecB. 

Spirseanthemum  Yitiense,  A.  Gray. 
Sp.   Katakata,   Seem.,  sp.   nov. ;    vulgo 

'Katakata'  (196). 
Weinmannia  affinis,  A.  Gray,  (197,)  et 

var.  (199  et  200). 
W.  Kichii,  A.  Gray. 
W.  spirseoides,  A.  Gray. 
W.  sp.  (198). 
Geissois  ternata,  A.  Gray;  vulgo '  Yuga' 

(201). 

Umlellifera. 
Hydrocotyle    Asiatica,    Linn. ;     vulgo 

'Totono'  (202). 

Araliacece. 

Aralia  Yitiensis,  A.  Gray  (203). 
Panax  fruticosum,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Dani- 

dani'  (204). 
Paratropia  ?  multijuga,  A.  Gray ;  vulgo 

'Danidani'  (205). 
Plerandra  Pickeringii,  A.  Gray. 
P.  Grayi,  Seem.,  sp.  nov.  (206  et  209). 
P.  ?  sp.  nov.  (208). 
P.  sp.  (207). 

LorantJiacecB. 
Loranthus  insularum,  A.  Gray ;  vulgo 

<Saburo'(211). 
L.  Yitiensis,  Seem.  (210). 
L.  Forsterianus,  Schult. 
Yiscum  articulatum,  Burm.  (212). 

Balanophorece. 
Balanophora  fungosa,  Forst. 


Rubiacea. 

I.  Coffeacea?:— 

Coprosma  persicaefolia,  A.  Gray. 
Geophila      reniformis,     Cham,      et 

Schlecht.  (239). 

Chasalia  amicorum,  A.  Gray?  (241). 
Psychotria  Brackenridgei,  A.  Gray. 
P.  Forsteriana,  A.  Gray,  var.  Yitiensis, 

A.  Gray  (236). 
P.  turbinata,  A.  Gray. 
P.  tepkrosantha,  A.  Gray. 
P.  parvula,  A.  Gray. 
P.  gracilis,  A.  Gray. 
P.  calycosa,  A.  Gray?  (246). 
P.  macrocalyx,  A.  Gray  (243). 
P.  filipes,  A.  Gray. 
P.  hypargyraa,  A.  Gray. 
P.  (Piptilema)  cordata,  A.  Gray. 
P.    (Piptilema)    Pickeringii,    A.  Gray 

(251). 
P.    (Piptilema)    platycocca,    A.    Gray 

(249), 

P.  insularum,  A.  Gray?  (250). 
P.  collina,  Labill.  (244  et  254). 
P.  sarmentosa,  Blum.  (245). 
P.  sp. ;  vulgo  '  Wa  kau  :'  ramis  scan- 

dentibus  sarmentosis  (895) » 
P.  sp.  foliis  bullatis  (248). 
P.  sp.  nov.  aff.  filipedis  (253). 
P.  sp.  nov.  aff.  Brackenridgei  (255). 
P.  sp.  aff.  Brackenridgei  (259). 
Calycosia  petiolata,  A.  Gray. 
C.  pubiflora,  A.  Gray  (214). 
C.   Milnei,  A.  Gray;  vulgo  '  Kau wai ' 

(213,  892). 
Ixora  Yitiensis,    A.  Gray  (247) ;  Pa- 

vetta  triflora,  De  Cand. ;  Coffea  tri- 

flora,    Forst.;     Ce-phaelis?    fragrans, 

Hook,  et  Am. 
I.  sp.  nov.  (258). 
I.  sp. ;  vulgo  '  Kau  sulu'  (893). 
Canthiurn  sessilifolium,  A.  Gray. 
C.  lucidum,  Hook,  et  Arn. ;  Coffea  odo- 

rata,  Forst.  (220  et  221). 
Morinda  uinbellata,  Linn.  (222). 
M.  myrtifolia,  A.  Gray;   foliis  majori- 

bus  (an  v.  M.  umbellatse?)  (223). 
M.  mollis,  A.  Gray  (224). 
M.  phillyreoides,  Labill.  (226). 


438 


A    MISSION   TO   VITI. 


M.  citrifolia,  Linn.  ;   vulgo  '  Kura,'  v. 

'Kurakana'  (225). 
M.  lucida,  A.  Gray. 
M.  bucideefolia,  A.  Gray. 
Hydnophytum    longiflorum,    A.    Gray 

( =  Myrmecodia    Vitiensis,    Seem.) 

(216). 

Vangueria?  sp.  (257). 
Guettarda  speciosa,  Linn. ;  vulgo  *  Bua- 

bua'  (237). 
G.    (Guettardella)   Vitiensis,   A.   Gray 

(=257?). 

Timonius  sapotsefolius,  A.  Gray. 
T.  affinis,  A.  Gray. 
Coffeacea;  vulgo  'Kau  lobo'  (893). 

II.  Cinchonese  : — 
Hedyotis  tenuifolia,  Sm.  (231). 
H.  deltoidea,  W.  et  Arn.  ?  (232). 
H.  paniculata,  Koxb.  (233). 
H.  paniculata,  Roxb.  var.  crassifolia,  A. 

Gray  (234). 

H.  bracteogonum,  Spr.  (235). 
Ophiorrluza  laxa,  A.  Gray  (227). 
O.  peploides,  A.  Gray  (228). 
O.  leptantha,  A.  Gray  (229). 
Lindenia  Vitiensis,    Seem.  Bonpl.  t.  8 

(217). 

Lerchea  calycina,  A.  Gray. 
Dolicholobium  oblongifolium,  A.  Gray. 
D.  latifolium,  A.  Gray. 
D.  longissimum,  Seem.  (215). 
Stylocoryne  Harveyi,  A.  Gray. 
St.  sambucina,  A.  Gray  (S.  pepericarpa, 

Bth.)  (242). 
Griffithiee  sp.  ?  (260). 
G.  ?  sp.  v.  gen.  nov.  (240). 
G.  sp.  fl.  odoratis. 
Gardenia  Vitiensis,  Seem.  (218). 
G.  ?  (an  gen.  nov.  ?)  (240). 
Musseenda    frondosa,     Linn. ;      vulgo 
"  Bovu." 

Composite. 

Monosis  insularum,  A.  Gray. 
Lagenophora  Pickeringii,  A.  Gray. 
Erigeron    albidum,    A.    Gray;     vulgo 

'"Wavuwavu/    v.  'Co   ni    papalagi' 

(261). 

Adenostemma  viscosum,  Forst.  (262). 
Siegesbeckia  orientalis,  Linn.  (263). 


Dichrocephala  latifolia,  De  Cand.  (264). 
Myriogyne  niinuta,  Lirin.  (265). 
Sonchus  oleraceus,  Linn.  (n.  266). 
Ageratum    conyzoides,     Linn.  ;    vulgo 

'  Botebotekoro,'  vel  'Matamocemoce' 

(267). 
Wollastonia    Forsteriana,    De   Cand.  ; 

vulgo  'Kovekove'   (268). 
Eclipta  erecta,  Linn.  ;  vulgo  '  Tumadu  ' 

(269). 
Bidens    pilosa,    Linn.  ;     vulgo   *  Bad- 

madramadra  (270). 
Glossogyne  tenuifolia,  Cass.  (271). 
Blumea  virens,  De  Cand.  (272). 

B.  Milnei,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.  aff.  B.  aroma  - 
ticse,  De  Cand.  273). 

Qoodeniacece. 
Sceevola  floribunda,  A.  Gray  (S.  saligna, 

Forst.?);  vulgo  *  Totoirebibi  '  (274, 

896). 
S.Kcenigii,  Vahl  (275). 

Cyrtandrece. 
Cyrtandra  acutangula,  Seem.  (276). 

C.  Vitiensis,  Seem.  ;  vulgo  '  Betabiabi  ' 
(277). 

C.  anthropophagorum,  Seem.  (278). 

C.  involucrata,  Seem.  (279). 

C.  coleoides,  Seem.  (280). 

C.  Milnei,  Seem.  (281). 

C.  ciliata,  Seem.  (282). 

C.  Pritchardii,  Seem.  (283). 

Vaccinece. 
Epigynum?  Vitiense,  Seem.  (284). 

Epacridece. 

Leucopogon  Cymbula,  Labill.  ;    vulgo 
'  Tagatagalesa.' 


Msesa  Pickeringii,  A.  Gray. 

M.  persicajfolia,  A.  Gray  (287  ?). 

M.  corylifolia,  A.  Gray  (288). 

M.  nemoralis,  A.  Gray  (286?). 

Myrsine    myricsefolia,    A.   Gray    (290 

ex  parte). 

M.  ?  Brackenridgei,  A.  Gray. 
M.  capitellata,  Wall.  ?  (289). 
Ardisia  ?  capitata,  A.  Gray. 


APPENDIX. 


439 


A.  grandis,  Seem.  (293). 
A.  sp.  (292,897). 
A.  sp.  (291). 

Styracea. 

Symplocos  spicata,  Koxb.  ;  vulgo  c  Eavu 
levu.' 

Elenacece. 
Maba  foliosa,  Rich. 

M.   elliptica,   Forst.;  vulgo  '  Kau  loa' 
(295,296,297,898). 

Sapotce. 

Sapota  ?  pyrulifera,  A.  Gray. 
S.  ?  Vitiensis,  A.  Gray. 
S.  sp.  (ex  A.  Gray). 

Jasmineae. 

Jasminum  tetraquetrum,  A.  Gray. 
J.    gracile,  Forst. ;  vulgo  '  Wa  Vatu ' 

(298). 
J.  didymum,  Forst. ;    J.  divaricatum, 

E.  Brown  (299). 

Loganiacece. 
Geniostoma  rupestre,  Forst.  (301). 

var.  puberulum,  A.  Gray  (G.  crassi- 

folium,  Bth.)  (300). 
G-.  microphyllum,  Seem.  (304). 
Strychnos  colubrina,  Linn.  (302). 
Courtliovia  corynocarpa,  A.    Gray  (= 

Gsertnera  pyramidalis,  Seem.) ;  vulgo 

'Boloa'  (303). 
C.  Seemanni,  A.  Gray  (Gsertnera  bar- 

bata,  Seem.)  (305,  899). 
Fagrsea   gracilipes,  A.  Gray  (F.  viridi- 

flora,  Seem.)  (306). 
F.Yitiensis,  Seem.  (307). 
F.  Berteriana,   A.  Gray  ;  vulgo  *  Bua ' 

(308). 

Apocynece. 
Alyxia  bracteolosa,  Eich  ;  vulgo  '  Yono' 

(310,  900) ;  var.  a  macrocarpa,  A.  Gray 

(A.macrocarpa,Eich.) ;  var.  j8  angusti- 

folia,  A.   Gray  (A.  stellata,  Seem.) ; 

var.  7  parviflora,  A.  Gray. 
A.  stellata,  Labill. 
Cerbera  lactaria,  Ham. ;  vulgo  c  Eewa ' 

vel'Yasa'  (309). 
Melodinus  scandens,  Forst.  (311). 


Tabernsemontana  Yitiensis,  Seem. ;    T. 

citrifolia,  Forst.  non  L.  =  ?  T.  Cu- 

mingiana,  A.  De  Cand. 
T.sp. 
Rejoua  scandens,  Seem.  sp.  nov. ;  vulgo 

'Warerega'  (901). 
Ochrosia  parviflora,  Hensl.  (O.  elliptica, 

Labill.?)  (318). 

Alstonia  plumosa,   Labill.  (318). 
A?  sp.  (317). 

Echites  scabra,  LabiU.?  (315). 
Lyonsia  Isevis,  A.  Gray. 

A  sclepiadece. 
Tylophora  Brackenridgei,  A.  G-ray. 
Gymnema  subnudum,  A.  Gray. 
G-.    stenophyllum,     A.     G-ray;     vulgo 

'Yauyau'  (322). 
Hoya  bicarinata,   A.    Gray;    Asclepiaa 

volubilis,  Forst. ;  vulgo  '  Wa  bibi '  vel 

'Bulibulisivaro'  (319). 
H.  diptera,  Seem.  (320). 
H.  pilosa,  Seem.  (321). 

Gentianea. 

Erythrsea  australis,  E.  Brown. 
Limnanthemum   Kleinianum,  Griseb. ; 
vulgo  {  Bekabekairaga '  (323). 

Oonvolvulaceas. 
Ipomoea    campanulata,    Linn. ;     vulgo 

'Wavula'  (324). 
I.  peltata,  Chois. ;  vulgo  *  Wiliao '  teste 

Seemann,  « Yeliyana '  teste    Williams 

(325). 
I.   Pes   caprse,    Sw. ;   vulgo   'Law ere' 

(326). 
I.  Turpethum,  E.  Brown;  vulgo  {Wa 

kai'  (327). 

I.  sepiaria,  Kan.  (328). 
I.    cymosa,   Eoem.    et   Schult. ;    vulgo 

'Sovivi'  (334). 
Aniseia  uniflora,  Chois.  (329). 
Batatas  paniculata,  Chois. ;  vulgo  '  Wa 

Uvi '  vel '  Dabici '  teste  Storck  (330, 

902). 

B.  edulis,  Chois. ;  vulgo  'Kumara'  vel 
'  Kawai  ni  papalagi.' — Cult. 

Pharbitis  insularis,  Chois. ;   vulgo  g  Wa 

Yuti'  (331). 
Calonyction  speciosum,  Chois.  (332). 

C.  comosperma,  Boj.  (333). 


440 


A    MISSION   TO    VITI. 


Boraginea. 

Tournefortia  argentea,  Linn.  (335). 
Cordia  Sprengelii,DeCand. ;  vulgo  'Tou' 

(336). 
C.    subcordata,    Lam. ;    vulgo   '  Nawa- 

nawa'  (337). 

Solanece. 

Physalis  Peruviana,  Linn.  (338). 

P.  angulata,  Linn.  (339). 

Solanum  viride,  E.  Brown  ?   (340). 

S.  anthropophagorum,  Seem.  (sp.  nov. 
Bonpl.t.  14) ;  vulgo  'Borodina'  (341). 

S.  repandum,  Forst. ;  vulgo  '  Sou/  '  Sou- 
sou,'  vel  'Boro  sou'  (342). 

S.  inamoenum,  Benth.  Lond.  Journ.  ii., 
p.  228  (343). 

S.  oleraceum,   Dun.;    vulgo  'Boro   ni 
yaloka  ni  gata '  (344) . 

S.  sp.  (S.  repand,  var.?  (345). 

Capsicum  frutescens,  Linn. ;  vulgo  'Boro 
nipapalagi'  (346). 

Nicotiana  Tabacum,  Linn. — Cultivated 
(347). 

Datura    Stramonium,   Linn, —  Introd. 

.  (348). 

Scrophularinea. 

Yandellia  Crustacea,  Benth.  (349). 

Limnophila  serrata,  Gaud.  (350). 

Acanthacece. 
Eranthemum  laxiflorum,  A.  Gray  (351, 

ex  parte). 

E.  insularum,  A.  Gray  (351,  ex  parte). 
Adenosma  triflora,    Nees    ab    Esenb. ; 
vulgo  'Tamola'  (352). 

Verbenacece. 
Clerodendron     inerme,      E.     Brown ; 

vulgo  'Yerevere'  (353). 
Vitex  trifolia,  Linn. ;  vulgo  *  Yulokaka ' 

(354). 

Premna  Tahitensis,  Schauer  (Scrophu- 
.   larioides     arborea,     Forst.);     vulgo 

'  Yaro'  (355). 

P.  Tahitensis,  Schauer;  var.?   (356). 
Gmelina  Yitiensis,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.). 

Labiates. 

Leucas  decemdentata,  Sm.  (357). 
Ocimum  gratissimum,  Linn.  (358). 


Plectranthus   Forsteri,    Benth. ;    vulgo 

'Lata'  (359). 
Teucrium  inflatum,  Swartz  (360). 

Plumbaginece. 
Plumbago  Zeylanica,  Linn.  (361). 

Plantaginece. 
Plantago  major,  Linn. — Introd.  (362). 

Nyctaginete. 

Pisonia  Brunoniana,  Endl.  (363). 
P.  viscosa,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.)  (364). 
Boerhaavia  diifusa,  Linn.,  var.  pubes- 
cens  (365). 

AmarantacecB. 
Amarantus    melancholicus,   Moq.,  var. 

tricolor ;    vulgo  '  Driti    damudamu ' 

(366). 
A.   paniculatus,    Moq.,  var.    cruentus, 

Moq. ;  vulgo  '  Driti.'— Introd.  (367). 
Euxolus  viridis,  Moq. ;    vulgo  '  Driti ' 

vel '  Gasau  ni  vuaka '  (368). 
Cyathula  prostrata,  Blum.  (369). 

Polygonece. 
Polygonum  imberbe,  Sol.  (370). 

Laurineae. 
Hernandia Sonora,  Linn.;  vulgo  'Yevu- 

yevu  '  vel  '  Uviuvi '  (372). 
Gassy tha  filiformis,  Linn. ;   vulgo  '  Wa- 

luku  mai  lagi'  teste  Williams  (373). 
Cinnamomum  sp. ;  vulgo  'Macou'  (376). 
Laurinea.  Arbor  15-20  ped.  (374). 
Laurinea  (375). 
Laurinea  (377). 

Laurinea ;  vulgo  '  Siqa '  vel '  Siga '  (378). 
Laurinea;  vulgo 'Lidi'  (903). 

ThymelecB. 

Drymispermum  sp.  (379). 
D.  montanum,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.)  (380). 
D.    subcordatum,    Seem.     (sp.    nov.) ; 

vulgo  'Matiavi'  (381). 
D.  ?  sp.  (382). 
Leucosmia  Burnettiana,  Benth.  (—  Dais 

disperma,  Forst.) ;  vulgo  '  Sinu  damu ' 

vel  'Sinudina'  (383). 
Wikstroernia  Indica,  C.  A.  Mey. ;  vulgo 

'  Sinu  mataiavi '  (384) . 


APPENDIX. 


441 


Santalacece. 

Santalum  Yasi,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.)  ;  vulgo 
'Yasi'  (385). 

Ceratophyllea. 
Ceratophyllum  demersum,  Linn.  (386). 

Euphorbiacece. 
Euphorbiacea  ?  ?   (387). 
Acalypha?  (388). 
Acalypha  Indica,  Linn.?  (389). 
A.  sp.  (390). 
A.   rivularis,   Seem.   (sp.  nov,);  vulgo 

'Kadakada'  (391). 
A.  virgata,  Forst.   (==  A.  circinata,  A. 

Gray)  ;     vulgo     *  Kalabuci     damu ' 

(392). 

A.  grand  is,  Benth. ;  vulgo  <  Kalabuci ' 
•    (393). 

Claoxylon  parviflorum,  Juss.  (394). 
Mappa  Molluccana,  Sprengl.  ?  (395). 
M.     macrophylla,     A.     Gray ;     vulgo 

'Mavu'  (396). 
M.  sp.  (397). 
M.  sp.  (419). 
M.  sp.  (420). 
Excoecaria    Agallocha,     Linn. ;     vulgo 

'Sinugaga'  (398). 
Manihot  Aipi,  Pohl. ;  vulgo  « Yabia  ni 

papalagi'  (399). 
Curcas  purgans,  Juss. ;  vulgo  '  Wiriwiri 

ni  papalagi'  (400). 
Kicinus  communis,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Bele 

ni  papalagi'  (401). 
Omalanthus   pedicellatus,  Bth. ;  vulgo 

'Tadauo'  (402). 

Aleurites  triloba,  Forst. ;  vtilgo  '  Lauci,' 
.    Tutui,'  vel  *  Sikeci'  (403). 
Euphorbia    .Norfolkica,    Bois. ;     vulgo 

'Soto'  (404). 
E.  pilulifera,  Linn.;  vulgo  'Deniosi' 

(405). 
E.  Atoto,  Forst,  (E.  oraria,  F.  Muell.) 

(406,904). 

Eottlera  acuminata,  Yahl.  (407). 
Croton    metallicum,    Seem.  (sp.  nov.) 

(408).' 

C.  sp. ;  vulgo  'Sacasaca  loa'  (409). 
C.  sp.   (an.  var.  n.  409  ?)   (410). 
C.  Storckii,  Seem.  sp.  nov.  aff.  C.  Hillii, 

F.  Miill.;  vulgo  'Danidani'  (905). 


Codia^um  variegatum,  A.  Juss.  ;  vulgo 

'Sacaca'  vel '  Yasa  damu'  (411). 
Melanthesa  sp.  (aff.  M.  Yit.  Idee®)  (412). 
M.  sp. ;  vulgo  'Molau.'     Arbor  (413). 
Glochidion  sp.  (414). 
G.  ramiflorum,  Forst.  j  vulgo  *  Molau ' 

(415). 
G.  cordatum,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.) ;  aff.  G. 

mollis  (416). 
Bischoffia  sp. ;    vulgo   c  Koka.'    Arbor 

(417). 
Phyllanthus  fruticosa,  WaU.  (418). 

UrticecB. 
Elatostemma?    nemorosa,    Seem.    (sp. 

nov.)  (422). 
Gironniera   celtidifolia,   Gaud. ;    vulgo 

'Nunu'  (423). 
Missiessya  corymbulosa,  Wedd. ;  vulgo 

'Matadra'  (424). 
Maotia  Tahitensis,  Wedd. ;  vulgo '  Walu- 

walu'  (425). 
Laportea   Harveyi,   Seem.    (sp.   nov.) ; 

vulgo  'Salato.'   Arbor    30-40    ped. 

(426). 
L.  Yitiensis,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.) ;  aff.   L. 

photinifol. ;  vulgo  c  Salato '  (427). 
Fleurya  spicata,  var.  interrupta,  "Wedd. ; 

vulgo    '  Salato   ni  koro '  vel  '  Salata 

wutivali'  (428). 

Pellionia  elatostemoides, 'Gaud.  (429). 
Procris  integrifolia,  Don,  Hook.,  Am, 

(430). 
Boehmeria  Harveyi,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.) 

vulgo  'Kere'  (431). 
B.  platyphylla,  Don  (432). 
B.  platyphylla,  Don,  var.  virgata,  Wedd. 

(433). 
Malaisia  ?  sp. ;  Arbor  (434  a). 

Morecs. 

Morus  Indica,  Linn.— Introd.  (4345). 
Trpphis  anthropophagorum,  Seem.  (sp. 

nov.) ;  vulgo  '  Malawaci '  (435). 
Ficus   obliqua,   Forst.;    vulgo    'Baka' 

(436). 

F.  tinctoria,  Forst.  (437). 
F.  sp. ;  vulgo  '  Loselose.'  Frutex  fruct. 

edul.  (438). 
F.  sp. ;  vulgo  *  Loselose  ni  wai.'  Frutex 

rivularis  (439). 


442 


A   MISSION  TO   VITI. 


F.  sp.  (440). 

F.  sp.  Frutex  16  ped.,  caule  subsimpl. 

(441). 

F.  sp.  (442). 
F.  sp.  (443). 
F.  sp.  (444). 
F.  scabra,  Forst. ;  vulgo  '  Ai  Masi ' 

(445). 

F.  aspera,  Forst.  (446). 
F.  sp.  (447). 
F.  sp.  (448). 

ArtocarpecB. 
Antiaris  Bennettii,  Seem.  Bonpl.  t.  7. 

(sp.  nov .) ;  vulgo '  Mavu  ni  Toga '  (449) . 
Artocarpus  incisa,  Linn.,  var.  integrifolia, 

Seem.    (aff.  A.    Chaplasha),    Eoxb.) ; 

vulgo  '  Uto  lolo '  v.  '  Tito  coko  coko  ' 

(450). 
A.  incisa,  Linn.  var.  pinnatifida,  Seem. ; 

forma  vulgo  *  Uto  dina '  dicitur  (551). 
A.  incisa,  forma  vulgo    '  Uto   Varaqa ' 

(152). 
A.       „  „          „      'Uto     Koqo' 

(453). 
A.       „  „  „      'Balekana' 

(454). 
A.      „  „          „      c  Uto     buco ' 

(455). 
A.       „  „  „      'Utoassalea' 

(456). 
A.       „  „  „      '  Uto  waisea 

(457). 
A.      „  „          „      *  Uto  Bokasi ' 

(458;. 
A.      „  „          „   'UtoYotovoto' 

(459). 
A.  incisa,  Linn.  var.  bipinnatifida,  Seem. ; 

vulgo  '  Uto  Sawesawe '  vel '  Kalasai ' 

((560). 

Gyrocarpea. 

Gryrocarpus   Asiaticus,   Willd. ;    vulgo 
1  Wiriwiri '  (561). 

Celtidece. 

Sponia  orientalis,  Linn.  (562). 
Sp.  velutina,  Planch.  (563). 

Chloranthacece. 
Ascarina  lanceolata,  Hook.  fil.  (564). 


Piperacece. 
Peperomia  sp.  (565). 
Macropiper  latifolium,  Miq.  (566). 
M.   puberulum,  Benth. ;  vulgo  '  Yaqo- 

yaqona'  (567). 
M.  methysticum,  Miq. ;  vulgo  '  Yaqona' 

(568). 
Piper    Siriboa,     Forst. ;     vulgo    '  Wa 

G-awa.'     Frutex  scandens  (569). 

CasuarinecB. 

Casuarina  equisetifolia,   Forst. ;    vulgo 
'Nokonoko'  (570). 

C.  nodiflora,    Forst. ;    vulgo    '  Yelao ' 
(571). 

Cycadece. 
Cycas  circinalis,  Linn. ;  vulgo  c  Eoro ' 

(572). 

Conifera. 
Dacrydium  elatum,  Wall. ;  vulgo  '  Le- 

weniniui '  vel '  Dakua  salusalu'  (573, 

906). 
Podocarpus    (elatus,   E.   Br.  ?) ;    vulgo 

'Kuasi'  (574). 
P.  (polyst  achy  a,  E.  Br.  ?) ;  vulgo  c  Gagali 

(575). 
P.  cupressina,  E.  Brown ;  vulgo  '  Kau 

tabua.' 
P.  ?    v.  gen.  nov. ;    vulgo  '  Kau  solo ' 

(576). 
Dammara     Vitiensis,     Seem. ;      vulgo 

'Dakua'  (577). 

OrcMdecB. 

Dendrobium   Mohlianum,   Eeichb.    fil. 
(sp.  nov.)  (578). 

D.  crispatum,  Swartz  (579). 
D.  (580). 

D.  Millingani,  F.  MueU.  (581). 

D.  biflorum,  Sw.  (582). 

D.  sp.  (an  var.  prseced.  ?)  (583). 

D.  Tokai,  Eeichb.  fil.  (sp.  nov.)  ;  vulgo 

'  Tokai '  teste  Williams  (584). 
D.  sp.  (591). 
Limodorum      unguiculatum,       Labill. 

(585). 

Bletia  Tankervilliee,  E.  Brown  (586). 
Oberonia  (587). 


APPENDIX. 


443 


O.  brevifob'a,  Lindl.  (Epidendrum  equi- 

tans,  Forst.  (.588). 
O.  Myosurus,  Lindl.  (589). 
Microstylis  Eheedii,  Lindl.  (Pterochilus 

plantagineus,  Hook,  et  Arn.)  (590). 
Apperidicula  (592). 
Tseniophyllum  Fasciola,  Seem.   (Limo- 

dorum  Fasciola,  Svvartz)  ;  vulgo  cDe 

nicaucau'  (593,  907). 
Saccolabium  sp.  (594). 
S.  sp.  (595). 

Eulophia  macrostachya,  Lindl.  ?  (596). 
Eria  sp.,aff.E.  baccatse,  Lindl.  ?   (597). 
Cirrhopetalum  Thouarsii,  Lindl.  (598). 
Ehomboda(599). 
Sarcochilus  (600). 
Dorsinia  marmorata,  Lindl.  (601). 
Monocliilus  sp.  (602). 
Corymbis  disticha,  Lindl.  (603). 
Pogonia  biflora,  Wight  (604). 
Calanthe  (605). 

C.  sp.  florib.  pallide  aurantiacis  (606). 
C.  veratrifolia,  E.  Brown  (607). 
Habenaria  (608). 
Orchidea  (609). 
O.  (610). 
O.  (611). 
O.  (612). 
O.  (613). 
O.  (614). 
O.  (615). 
O.  (616). 
O.  (617). 
O.  (618). 

ScitaminecB. 
Musa    Troglodytarura,    Linn. ;     vulgo 

'Soqo'  (619). 

Gen.  nov. ;  vulgo  'Boia'  (620). 
Alpinia  sp.  (621). 
Curcuma  longa,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Cago ' 

(622). 
Zingiber  Zerumbet,  Linn. ;  vulgo  { Beta' 

(623). 

Amonium  sp.  ;  vulgo  *  Cevuga '  (624). 
Canna  Indica,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Gasau  ni 

ga'  (625). 

DioscorecB. 

Helmia  bulbifera,  Kth.  j  vulgo  c  Kaile ' 
(626). 


Dioscorea   alata,   Linn. ;    vulgo    '  Uvi ' 

(627). 
D.  nummularia,  Lam. ;  vulgo  '  Tivoli ' 

(628). 
D.  aculeata,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Kawai ' 

(629). 
D.  pentaphylla,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Tokulu ' 

(630). 

SmilacecB. 

Smilax  sp. ;  vulgo  '  Kadragi '  vel '  Wa 
rusi'  (631). 

Taccacece. 
Tacca  sativa,  Kumph.  ;  vulgo  '  Yabia  * 

(632,  909). 
T.  pinnatifida,  Forst. ;    vulgo   '  Yabia 

dina'  (633,908). 

Liliacea. 

Cordyline  (634). 

C.  sp. ;  vulgo  'Ti  kula.'— Colitur  (635). 

C.  sp. ;  vulgo  '  Qai '  v.  '  Masawe.' — Co- 
litur (636). 

Allium  Ascalonicum,  Linn. ;  vulgo '  Ya- 
rasa.'— Colitur  (637). 

Geitonoplesiuni  cymosum,  Cunn. ;  vulgo 
'WaDakua'  (638). 

Dianella  ensifolia,  Ked.  (639). 

Amaryllidece. 

Crinum  Asiaticum,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Via- 
via'  (640). 

Asteliete. 

Astelia  niontana,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.  bacca 
trilocul.);  vulgo 'Misi'  (641). 

Covnrnelynece. 
Commelyna    communis,  Linn.    (=  C. 

pacifica,  Yahl  ?)  ;   vulgo  c  ai  Eorogi ' 

vel  '  Eogomatailevu  '  (642). 
Aneilema   Yitiense,   Seem.    (sp.    nov. ; 

florib.  pallide  coeruleis)  (643). 
Flagellaria  Indica,  Linn. ;  vulgo  c  Sili 

Turuka'  vel  'Yico'  (644,  910). 
Joinvillea  elegans,  Gaud.  (=  Flagellaria 

plicata,  Hook,  fil.,  645). 

Typhacece. 

Typha  angustifolia,  Linn.  ;  vulgo  '  De 
niruve'  (646). 


444 


A    MISSION    TO    VITI. 


BromeliacetB. 
Ananassa  sativa,  Lindl. ;  vulgo  '  Balawa 

ni  papalagi.5 
A.  sativa,  var.  prolifera. 

Pandanece. 
Freycinetia  Vitiensis,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.) 

(647). 

F.  Milnei,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.)  (648). 
F.  Storckii,  Seem.  (sp.  nov.)  (695). 
F.  sp.  (696). 
Pandanus  odoratissimus,  Linn. ;  vulgo 

'Balawa'  vel  'Vadra'  (649). 
P.  caricosus,  Rumph. ;  vulgo  c  Kiekie ' 

vel '  Voivoi '  (650). 

Aroideee. 
Alocasia    Indica,   Schott;    vulgo    'Via 

mila,'  '  Via  gaga,'  '  Via  sori,'  v.  '  Via 

dranu'  (651). 

Amorphophallus  ?     (sp.  nov.) ;     vulgo 
!    'Daiga'  (652). 

Cyrtosperma  edulis,  Schott  (sp.  nov.) ; 
.   vulgo  'Viakana'  (653). 
Raphidophora    Vitiensis,    Scbott.    (sp. 

nov.);  vulgo 'Walu'  (654). 
Cuscuaria  spuria,  Schott  (sp.  nov.)  (655). 
Colocasia  antiquorum,  Schott,  var.  escu- 

lenta,  Schott;  vulgo 'Dalo'  (655  V). 
Aroidea  (911). 

Lemnacece. 
Lemna    gibba,    Linn. ;    vulgo    '  Kala ' 

(656). 
L.  minor,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Kala  '  (657). 

Palmce. 

Cocos    nucifcra,    Linn. ;     vidgo    '  Niu 
.   dina.' 
Sagus  Vitiensis,  Herm.   Wendl.  (Coelo- 

coccus    Vitiensis,    Herm.    Wendl.) ; 

vulgo  'Niu  soria'  vel  c  Sogo'  (658). 
Pritchardia   pacifica,   Seem,   et  Herm. 

Wendl.  (gen.   nov.)  ;  vulgo  '  Sakiki,' 

' Niu  Masei,'  vel '  Viu'  (659). 
Kentia  ?    exorrhiza,  Herm.  Wendl.  (sp. 

nov.)  ;  vulgo  '  Niu  sawa'  (660). 
Ptychosperma  Vitiensis,  Herm.  Wendl. 

(sp.  nov.)  (662). 
P.  filifer urn,  Herm.  Wendl.  (sp.  nov.)  ; 

vulgo  'Cagecake'  (661,  663). 


P.  Seemanni,  Herm.  Wendl.  (sp.  nov.)  ; 

vulgo  'Balaka'  (664). 
P.  perbreve,  Wendl. 
P.  pauciflorum,  Wendl. 
P.  Pickeringii,  Wendl. 

Cyperacece. 
Baumia  sp.  (665). 

Hypolytrum  giganteum,  Roxb.  (666). 
Lepironia  mucronata,  Rich.  (667). 
Cyperus  sp.  (668). 
Q.  sp.  (912). 
Mariscus    Isevigatus,  Rrem.   et   Schult. 

(669). 

Kyllingia  intermedia,  R.  Brown   (670). 
K.  sp.  (671). 

Lamprocarya  affinis,  A.  Brongn.  (672). 
Gahnia  Javanica,  Zoll.  (673). 
Fimbrystylis  marginata,  Labill.  (674). 
F.  stricta,  Labill.  (675). 
Scleria  sp.  (676). 
S.  sp.  (677). 
Elseocharis  articulata,  Nees  ab  Escnb. ; 

vulgo  'Kuta'  (678). 

Graminece.. 

Zea  Mays,  Linn. ;  vulgo  '  Sila  ni  papa- 
lagi.'—Cult. 
Oplismenus  sp.  foliis  purpurascentib. ; 

vulgo  'Co  damudamu'  (679). 
O.  sp.  foliis  albo-maculatis. — Cum  praB- 

cedente  colitur  (680). 
O.  compositus,  Roem.  et  Schult.    (681). 
Paspalum  scrobiculatum,  Linn. ;  vulgo 

'  Co  dina '  (682). 
Eleusine  Indica,  Gsertn.  (683). 
Centotheca  lappacea,  Desv.  (684) 
Andropogon  refractum,  R.  Brown  (= 

A.  Tahitense,  Hook,  et  Am.)  (685). 
A.  acicularis,  Retz.  (686). 
A.    Sch oenan thus,    Linn.  ;     vulgo   '  Co 

boi'  (687). 

Cenchrus  anomoplexis,  Labill.  (688). 
Sorghum  vulgare,  Pers. — Colitur  (689). 
Digitaria  sanguinalis,  Linn.  (690). 
Saccharuin  floridum,  Labill.  (691). 
Coix    Lacryma,    Linn.  ;    vidgo    '  Sila ' 

(692). 

Panicum  pilipes,  Nees  ab  Esenb.  (693). 
Bambusa  sp. ;  vulgo  'Bitu'  (694). 


APPENDIX. 


445 


Equisetacece. 
Equisetum  sp. ;   vulgo  '  Masi  ni  tabua ' 

(697). 

Lycopodiacea. 

Psilotum  complanatum,  Sw.  (698). 
P.  triquetrum,  Sw.  (699). 
Lycopodium   cernuum,    Linn. ;     vulgo 

'  Ya  Lewaninini'  (700). 
L.  flagellare,  A.  Eich.  (701). 
L.  Phlegraaria,  Linn.  (702). 
L.  varium,  E.  Br.  (703). 
L.  verticillatum,  Linn.  (704). 
L.  sp.  (705). 
L.  sp.  (706). 
L.  sp.  (707). 
L.  sp.  (708). 

Filices. 
Acrostichum    aureum,    Linn. ;     vulgo 

'  Boreti,'  vel,  teste  Williams,  c  Caca ' 

(709). 

Stenochleena  scandens,  J.  Smith.  (710). 
Lomariopsis  leptocarpa,  Fee  (711). 
L.  cuspidata,  Fee  (712). 
Lomogramme  polyphylla,  Brack.  (713, 

421). 
Goniophlebium  subauriculatum,  Blum. 

(714). 

Hemionitis  lanceolata,  Hook.  (716). 
H.  elongata,  Brack.  (715). 
Antrophyum  plantagineum,Kaulf(7l7) . 
Diclidopteris      aiigustissima,      Brack.  ; 

vulgo  'Mokomokoni  Ivi'  (718,  914). 
Vittaria   revoluta,  Willd.  (719). 
V.  elongata,  Sw.  (720). 
Arthropteris    albopimctata,    J.    Smith 

(721). 

Prosaptia  coiitigua,  Presl  (722). 
Phymatodes     stenophylla,     J.     Smith 

(723). 
Niphobolus    adriascens,  Sprengel,  Sw., 

J.  Sm.  (724). 

Loxogramme  lanceolata,  Presl  (725). 
Hymenolepis  spicata,  J.  Smith  (726). 
Pleuridium    cuspidiflorum,    J.    Smith 

(727). 

P.  vulcanicum,  J.  Smith  (729). 
Phymatodes  Billardieri,  Presl  (730). 
P.  alata,   J.    Sm.     =  Drynaria    alata, 

Brack.)  (731.) 


P.  longipes,  J.  Smith ;    vulgo  c  Caca,' 

teste  Williams   (732). 
Drynaria  museefolia,  J.  Smith  (728). 
D.  diversifolia,  J.  Smith;   vulgo    'Be- 

vula,'  'Teva,'  vel  '  Yuvu'  (733). 
Dipteris   Horsfieldii,  J.  Smith ;   vulgo 

'  Koukou  tagane '  (734). 
Meniscium  sp.  (735). 
Nephrodium   simph'cifolium,   J.  Smith 

(736). 

N.  sp.  (737). 

N. ;  vulgo  c  Watuvulo '  (738). 
N.  sp.  (739,  740). 
Lastrea  sp.  (741). 

Polystichum  aristatum,  Presl  (742). 
Nephrolepis  ensifolia,  Presl  (743). 
N.  hirsutula,  Presl  (744). 
N.  repens,  Brack.  (745) . 
N.  obliterata,  J.  Smith  (831). 
Dictyopteris  macrodonta,  Presl  (746). 
Aspidium  latifolium,  J.  Smith  j   vulgo 

'Sasaloa'  (v.  Saloa  ?)  (747). 
A.  decurrens,  J.  Smith  (748). 
A.  repandum,  Willd  (749). 
Oleandra  neriiformis,  Cav.  (750). 
Didymochlsena  truncatula,  Desv.  (751). 
Microlepia  polypodioides,  Presl  (751 1). 
M.  sp.  (752). 

M.  papillosa,  Brack.  (753). 
M.  Luzonica,  Hook,  (gracilis,  Blum.) 

(754). 

M.  flagellifera,  J.  Smith  (Wall.)  (755). 
M.   (fructif.)    (An   var.   n.   751  b  ?   B. 

Seem.)  (756.) 

Humata  heterophyUa,  Cav.  (759). 
Davallia  elegans,  Sw.  (757). 
D.  Fijiensis,  Hook.  (758). 
D.  fceniculacea,  Hook.  (760,  762). 
D.  gibberosa,  Sw.  (761). 
D.  Moorei,  Hook.  (830). 
Schizoloma  ensifolia,  Gaud.  (763). 
Synaphlebiuni    davallioides,  J.   Smith 

(764). 

S.  Pickeringii,  Brack.  (765). 
S.  repens,  J.  Smith  (766). 
Sitolobium  stramineum,  J.  Smith  (767). 
Cyathea  meduUaris,  Sw.  (768). 
Trichomanes  javanicum,  Blum.  (769). 
T.  rigidum,  Sw.  (780,  829). 
T.  meifolium,  Bory   (781). 


446 


A   MISSION   TO   VITI. 


T.  bilingue,  Blum.  (=  n.  780  ?)  (782). 
T.  angustatum,  Carm.  =  T.  caudatum, 

Brack.  (783). 

T.  erectum,  Brack.  (784  ex  parte). 
Hymenophyllum  (784). 
H.  formosum,  Brack.  (785). 
H.  parvu-lum,  Poir.  (786). 
Todea  Wilkesiana,  Brack.  (787). 
Marattia  sorbifolia,  Sw. ;   vulgo  '  Dibi ' 

(788). 

Angiopteris  evecta,  Hoffm.  (789). 
Lygodictyon  Forsteri,  J.  Smith ;  vulgo 

'WaKalou'  (790). 
Gleichenia  dichotoma,  Hook.  (791). 
Schizaea  dichotoma,  Sw. ;     vulgo  '  Sa- 

gato  ni  tauwa'  (792). 
Actinostachys  digitata,  WaU.  (793). 
Ophioglossum  pendulum,  Linn.  (794). 
Blechnum  orientale,  Linn.  (795). 
Lomaria  attenuate,  Willd.  (796). 
L.  elongata,  Blume  (797). 
Pellsea  geraniifolia,  Fee  (798). 
Cheilanthes  tenuifolia,  Sw.  (799,  800). 
Adiantum  lunulatum,  Sw. ;  vulgo  *  Kau 

nivivatu'  (801,915). 
A.  hispidulum,  Sw.  (802). 
A.  aff.  A.  setulonervi,  J.  Smith  (803). 
Pteris  quadriaurita,  teste  Hook.  Sp.  Fil. 

(804). 
P.  sp.  (Litobrochia  divaricata,  Brack.  ?) 

(805). 

P.  tripartita,  Sw.  (806,  913). 
P.  esculenta,  Forst.  (809). 
P.  crenata,  Sw. ;    vulgo   '  Qato,'   teste 

Williams  (811). 
Litobrochia  sinuata,  Brack.;  vulgo  'Wa 

Eabo'  (807). 
L,  sinuata  var.  (808). 
L.  comans,  Presl  (810). 
Neottopteris     australasica,    J.    Smith 

(812). 

Asplenium  vittseforme,  J.  Smith  (813). 
A.  falcatum,  Lam.  (814). 
A.  sp.  (815). 

A.  brevisorum,  Wall.  (827). 
A.  obtusilobum,  Hook.  (828). 
A.  induratum,  Hook.  (816)., 
A.  lucidum,  Forst.  (817). 
A.  sp.  (820). 
A.  resectum,  Sm.  (821). 


A.  laserpitiifolium,  Lam.  (822). 
A.  (Darea)  sp.  (784  ex  parte). 
Callipteris  ferox,  Blum.  (=  C.  prolifera, 
Hook,  var.)  (818). 

C.  (sine  fructif.)  (819). 
Cryptosorus    Seemanni,   J.    Smith  (= 

Polypodium  contiguum,  Brack,  non 
Sw.  (823). 
Diplazium  rnelanocaulon,  Brack.  (824). 

D.  bulbiferum,  Brack.  (825). 
D.  polypodioides,  Blume.  (826). 
Tsenitis  blechnoides,  Sw.  (?  abnormal.) 

(832). 

Musci. 
Leptotrichum    flaccidulum,    Mitt.    sp. 

nov.  (841). 
L.  trichophyllum,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (inter 

862). 
Leucobryum  laminatum,  Mitt.  sp.  nov. 

(844). 
Leucophanes  densifoh'us,  Mitt.  sp.  nov. 

(inter  862). 
L.  smaragdinum,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (inter 

863). 

Syrrhopodon  tristichus,;Nees  (inter  846) . 
S.  scolopendrius,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (843). 
Meteorium  longissimum,  Dzy.  et  Molk 

(inter  863). 
M.  (Esenbeckia)   setigerum,  Mitt.  (Pi- 

lotrichum,  Sullivant)  (846). 
Trachyloma  Junghuhnii,   Mitt.   (Hyp- 

num  C.  Mueller)  (842). 
T.  arborescens,  Mitt.  (845). 
Neckera  flaccida,  C.  MueU.  (836). 
N.  Lepineana,  Montagu.  (863). 
N.  dendroides,  Hook.  (838). 
Spiridens  Eeinwardti,  Nees.  (840). 
Trachypus  helicophyllus,  Mont.  (838). 
Leskea  glaucina,  Mitt,  (inter  847). 
L.    ramentosa,    Mitt.    sp.  nov.    (inter 


Eacopilum    spectabile,     Hsch.     (inter 

863). 
Sphagnum  cuspidatum,  Ehrh.  (839). 

Hepaticce. 
Cheiloscyphus    argutus,     Nees     (inter 

862). 
Plagiochila  arbuscula,  L.  et  L.   (inter 

862). 


APPENDIX. 


447 


P.  Vitiensis,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (862). 
P.  Seemanni,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (864). 
Trichocolea    tomentella,    Nees     (inter 

862). 
Radula  amentulosa,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (inter 

837). 

B.  scariosa,  Mitt.  sp.  nor.  (inter  837). 
R.  spicata,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (inter  837). 
Lejeunia   (Bryopteris)    Sinclairii,  Mitt. 

sp.  nov.  (inter  843). 
L.  eulopha  (Phragmicoma,  Tay.)   (inter 

846). 
Frullania  deflexa,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (inter 

834). 
F.  meteoroides,  Mitt.   sp.    nov.    (inter 

834). 

F.  cordistipula,  Nees  (inter  846). 
F.  trichodes,  Mitt.  sp.  nov.  (inter  846). 
Sarcomitrium  plumosum,  Mitt.  (847). 
Marchantia  pileata,  Mitt.  (838). 

Lichenes. 
Sticta  damaecornis,  var.  caperata,  Nyl. 

(848). 
S.  (Stictina)  fUicinella,  Nyl.  (849). 


Kamalina  calicaris,  Nyl. ;  vulgo  *  Lumi ' 

(ni  Vanua)  (851). 

Coccocarpia  molybdsea,  Pers.  (852). 
Leptogium  tremelloides,  Fries  (853). 
Sticta  (Stictina)  quercizans,  Ach.  (854). 
Sticta  Freycinetii,  Del.  (861). 
Verrucaria  aurantiaca,  Nyl.  (865) . 
Parmelia  peltata,  Ach.  var. 


Fungi. 
sp. ;     vulgo 


Wa  loa' 


Ehizomorpha 

(855). 

Lentinus  sp.  (856). 
Polyporus  sanguineus,  Fries  (857). 
P.  affinis,  Fries  (858). 
P.  hirsutus,  Fries  (859). 
Hoomospora    transversalis,    Brebisson 

(860). 

Agaricus  (Pleuropus)    pacificus,   Berk. 
Schizophyllum  commune,  Fries. 
Xylaria  Feejeensis,  Berk. 

Alga. 

Hoomonema  fluitans,  Berk.  (gen.  nov.) 
(860). 


THE   END. 


JOHN  EDWAED   TATLOE,  PEINTEB, 
LITTLE   QUEEN  STEEET,  LINCOLN'S  INN  FIELDS. 


22,  CANONBURY  SQUARE,  LONDON,  N. 

Preparing  for  Publication,  in  Ten  Quarterly  Parts,  each  containing  Forty  Page* 
of  Letter-press,  and  Ten  Plates,  Price  1 5,s.  coloured, 

FLORA   VITIENSIS: 

A   DESCRIPTION   OF    THE    PLANTS    OF   THE 

VITI  OR  FIJI  ISLANDS. 

With  an  Account  of  their  History,  Uses,  and  Properties. 


BY 


BERTHOLD  SEEMANN,  PH.D.,  F.L.S.,  F.R.G.S., 

Commissioned  by  H.B.M.  Government  to  explore  those  Islands  ;   Author  of  the 
Botany  of  the  Voyage  of  H.M.S.  Herald. 


THIS  Work  is  to  consist  of  400  pages  of  letter-press,  size  royal 
quarto,  and  100  Coloured  Plates  by  FITCH,  illustrating  the  botanical 
results  of  the  Fijian  mission  undertaken  by  command  of  Her  Majesty's 
Government.  It  will  also  embrace  all  the  plants  of  that  country  ac- 
cumulated by  previous  expeditions,  including  those  of 

Admiral  Sir  E.  BELCHER,  B.N.,  in  H.M.S.  Sulphur. 
Sir  E.  HOME,  Bart.,  K.N.,  in  H.M.S.  North  Star. 
Captain  DENHAM,  R.N.,  in  H.M.S.  Herald. 
Captain  WILKES,  in  U.S.  Exploring  Expedition. 
Professor  HARVEY,  of  Trinity  College,  Dublin. 

The  Fijian  Flora  comprises  about  1000  species,  of  which  200  (nearly 
a  fourth  part  of  those  collected  by  me)  are  new  to  science.  Of  some 
entire  natural  orders  not  a  single  member  had  been  previously  known ; 
for  instance,  the  Cyrtandracece  and  Palms,  the  latter  embracing  three 
new  genera ;  whilst  the  peculiarities  of  the  whole  Flora  will  be  brought 
in  bold  relief  by  adding  a  complete  enumeration  of  all  Polynesian 
plants  known  to  exist  between  lat.  30°  south  and  30°  north. 

The  Flora  is  rich  in  plants  of  economic  value  and  ethnological 
importance,  and  due  prominence  will  be  given  to  them,  thus  rendering 
the  work  interesting  also  to  other  than  systematic  botanists. 


Several  eminent  botanists  have  already  examined  the  whole  or  ex- 
tensive portions  of  my  Collections,  and  pronounced  upon  their  value. 
Sir  William  J.  Hooker,  in  his  Official  Report,  alludes  to  them  as 
amongst  the  "  admirable  collections "  with  which  the  Herbarium  at 
Kew  has  last  year  been  enriched.  Professor  Asa  Gray,  of  Cambridge, 
Massachusetts,  has  carefully  collated  my  specimens  with  those  col- 
lected by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  and  communicated 
the  results.  Dr.  Schott,  of  Vienna,  has  examined  the  Aroidece,  and 
described  the  new  ones;  Mr.  Wendland,  the  Palms;  the  Rev.  M.  J. 
Berkeley,  the  Fungi;  the  Rev.  Churchill  Babington,  the  Lichens;  Mr. 
Smith,  of  Kew,  the  Ferns ;  Mr.  W.  Mitten,  the  Mosses  and  Hepaticse ; 
Professor  Meisner,  the  Laurinece ;  and  Professor  Reichenbach,  the 
Orchids. 

As  my  official  '  Report  on  the  Vegetable  Productions  and  Re- 
sources of  the  Vitiau  or  Fijian  Islands/  addressed  to  His  Grace  the 
Duke  of  Newcastle,  as  head  of  the  Colonial  Office,  has  been  printed 
and  presented  to  both  Houses  of  Parliament  by  command  of  Her 
Majesty,  May,  1862,  I  was  in  hopes  that  the  Government  would  see 
fit  to  assist  me  in  publishing  the  remaining  results  obtained  by  this 
Expedition.  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  ever  ready  to  ad- 
vance the  interests  of  science,  fully  shared  these  hopes,  and  made  an 
application  to  the  Treasury  to  that  effect,  but  was  "  sorry  to  inform 
me  that  the  application  had  been  unsuccessful." 

Thinking  that  what  was  worth  collecting  at  such  an  expense,  often 
under  great  difficulties,  in  a  tropical  climate,  and  amongst  a  people 
only  partially  reclaimed  from  cannibalism,  would  also  be  worth 
making  known,  I  have  resolved  to  risk  the  cost  of  publishing  the 
work  myself;  and  I  confidently  trust  that  my  friends  will  lighten  the 
responsibility  I  have  taken  upon  myself  by  either  becoming  subscribers 
themselves  or  recommending  the  work  to  such  public  and  private 
libraries  as  may  be  known  to  them.  The  name  of  the  Artist,  Mr.  Fitch, 
and  of  the  publishers,  Messrs.  Lovell  Reeve  and  Co.,  will  be  a  suffi- 
cient guarantee  that  the  work  will  be  got  up  in  the  best  style ;  to 
which  the  author  may  be  allowed  to  add,  that  none  except  truly  new 
plants  will  be  figured  in  the  plates. 

BERTHOLD  SEEMANN. 


Names  of  Subscribers  already  received  :— 

His  MAJESTY  THE  KING  OF  HANOVER. 

His  GRACE  THE  DUKE  OF  NEWCASTLE,  K.G.,  Colonial  Office. 

His  GRACE  THE  DUKE  OF  DEVONSHIRE. 

The  Right  Honourable  LORD  ASHBURTON,  F.R.S.,  Presi- 
dent R.G.S. 

His  Excellency  SIR  WILLIAM  DENISON,  Government  House, 
Madras. 

Sir  RODERICK  IMPEY  MURCHISON,  D.C.L.,  LL.D.,  F.R.S., 
Director- General  of  the  Geological  Survey, 

Sir  W.  J.  HOOKER,  D.C.L.,  F.R.S.,  Director  of  the  Royal 
Gardens,  Kew. 

Dr.  LINDLEY,  F.R.S.,  F.L.S. 

Library  of  Queen's  College,  Cork. 

Library  of  Harvard  University,  Cambridge,  U.S. 

Library  of  the  Imperial  Botanic  Gardens,  St.  Petersburg. 

Library  of  the  Imperial  Botanic  Gardens,  Vienna. 

Library  of  the  University,  Edinburgh. 

Library  of  the  University,  Gottingen. 

Library  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Kew. 

Library  of  the  University  of  Breslau. 

Library  of  the  Museum  of  Natural  History,  Florence. 

Royal  Library,  Munich. 

J.  J.  BENNETT,  Esq.,  F.R.S.,  Vice-President  L.S. 

CHARLES  BRETT,  Esq.,  F.R.G.S.,  Cleveland  Square. 

DANIEL  HANBURY,  Esq.,  F.L.S.,  Lombard  Street. 

W.  H.  HARVEY,  M.D.,  F.R.S.,  Trin.  Coll.,  Dublin. 

J.  ELIOT  HOWARD,  Esq.,  F.L.S.,  Tottenham. 

ALPHONSE  DE  CANDOLLE,  Geneva. 

FREDERICK  SCHEER,  Esq.,  Northfleet. 

J.  GREEN,  Professor,  Queen's  College,  Cork. 

Captain  DENHAM,  R.N.,  Delamere  Terrace,  (2  copies). 

Captain  J.  ANDERSON,  R.N.,  Fareham. 

ROBERT  HUDSON,  Esq.,  F.R.S.,  Claphani. 

CHARLES  DARWIN,  Esq.,  F.R.S.,  F.L.S.,  Bromley. 

C.  BURNELL,  Esq.,  Edinburgh. 

ASA  GRAY,  M.D.,  F.L.S.,  Cambridge,  U.S. 


Admiral  HENRY  KELLETT,  R.N.,  C.B.,  Clonmel. 

BERIAH  BOTFIELD,  Esq.,  M.P.,  F.R.S.,  F.L.S. 

WILLIAMS  AND  NORGATE. 

Mrs.  RAWDON. 

JOHN  GRAY,  Esq. 

Dr.  BENNETT,  F.L.S. ,  Sydney. 

Miss  FARMER,  Baling. 

CHARLES  MOORE,  Esq.,  Director  of  Botanic  Gardens,  Sydney. 

Rev.  E.  HOOLE,  D.D.,  Centenary  Hall. 

J.  R.  REEVES,  Esq.,  F.R.S.,  F.L.S. 

EDMUND  KERSHAW,  Esq. 

GEORGE.  MACLEAY,  Esq.,  F.L.S.,  (2  copies). 

ASHER  AND  Co.,  Berlin,  (3  copies). 


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